That’s probably a k46 tuff torq! There is a number on the back of the transmission on the back of the axle. It’s take 2.2 liter of 5w-50 transmission fluid. Original oil in it was Probably 10-30 oil but turf torq recommends 5-50 trans fluid. The filler cap is under the fan. You pulled up the vent cap that releases pressure inside the trans case when it gets hot. Also I would recommend you empty the dirty oil and put new in it. The fill cap has a magnet under it that catch’s metal shavings from the trans and needs to be cleaned. 2.2 liters should get you at the top where it should be. Plus in order to get air out of the trans you need to turn the trans from side to side to get the air out of the trans. It be nice to hook a drill up our at least turn the pulley on top of the trans to get air out also and see if the wheels actually turn before you put it back together. Remember to pull the the leaver that’s hooked up to your peddle for forward and backward to get the trans to respond to turning the pulley on top of the trans.
Mustie1 it's always a learning experience watching you repair equipment. I've learned a LOT more concerning yard equipment repair since watching numerous videos of yours. When I have an issue I try and see if you have a video dealing with the same issue....KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
For $72 a complete seal kit fixed a 2014 Cub Cadet LTX 1045 Tuff Torq K46 Transmission/transaxle Assembly. Your video on how to do the job is priceless! Thanks
I love when the manufacturer says non serviceable. That means there are guys all over proving them wrong as per Mustie1. Good Going Mustie. Keep up the great work.
I have been trying to catch up on all your videos, and I am truly enjoying them and learning a lot from you. My father in law just bought a cub cadet at an auction this spring and was using it in his yard and the trans went, well, I wish I would have seen your video sooner, I could have saved him some serious cash, the trans went out in his and he took it to the shop and wound up putting a whole new tans in it, and was not happy about it, he got it with the mower deck and a snowblower. the motor is strong, so I hope I can fix it as easy as you did the next time it happens. I really enjoy your videos and how you go step by step with any project you do, I am a "back yard mower mechanic," I know enough to get them running, but you have taught me so much just by doing these videos. Please keep them coming.
I like these videos how you manage to save equipment that people pitch to the curb. "You can't beat experience," they say. I had 37 year where I work on a Plant Chemical Process. When I use to walk into the place,I didn't worry about what problems I was dealt, because I been there and done it before. I would have a chuckle when a young whipper tried to out do me, but I trained them like I wanted to be trained when I started out. Sharing the knowledge, like you do. Thanks.
I have watched a few of your videos. You do a great job at fixing, tossed out junk. I grew up in an age that people use to fix things, but now they just toss it out. It is good to see that someone can and still fixes things… Keep up the good work, and keep making your good videos.. I feel like I am back in my grandfather’s garage fixing thing with him again...
Nothing's more rewarding than repairing something that everybody, including the manufacturer, says is sealed, no parts available, blah blah blah and then fix it anyway, often for a few bucks. Happened to me so many times. Keep up with your vids. I learn something every time !
I’m working on an older Honda lawn tractor and although a different problem I appreciate your thinking as you observe various systems and specifics. You do good work.
My tractor gave up on the hydro and I was happy to see you had done this video and now I'm going to see how I do. I really glad I discovered your presence on you tube. Thanks so much
Hey mustie, the pitch on the pulley is set to keep the belt off the leading edge or outer rim of the pulley to prevent belt wear. You got it by eye, just don't let the belt ride the pulley edge. IH (International Harvester) loves this set up. It used to run belt power trains where the belts come in at opposing angles. Great work man. I'D be happy to come down and pick up that VW halfy anytime. just give me the nod! Love your channel man. I'm with you, "outside, dickin around in the garage"
Poor engine oil pick up on hills and transaxles not rated to pull the tractor up a hill are the two most common scams perpetrated on the consumer. The TuffTorq K 46 is only made for dead flat ground. It is not until you get up to TT K66 OR hydrogear G730 that you have dependable hill service. To a one-- the dealers pretend that they have no idea of what happened. Most sites do not even list the transaxle models that are used. They want you buying a new $1700 lawn tractor every few years. Your video does a good job showing how they go out of their way to prevent changing the oil or even topping it off.
Yours is one of my favorite channels just recently found and sub. Just love that a LITTLE trouble shoot finds minor things that can be addressed and put the machine back inservice. This video is a prime example. Have a large dose of the pack rat also does payoff. Fixing the 2 tractors was intirely a matter of labor as you were able to salvage all the parts necessary of other old scrape. case in point that old mower deck most would have trashed as it was so eaten up with rust. but it had good useable components, that were exactly what you needed to fix the craftman tractor's deck , and a look shoed a leaking seal quick rummage thru the catch all seal collection. and a little 10w30. Viola fixed, not field serviceable??HA!!Never doubt that your videos a watched and appreciated.....
Ive got a cub cadet Gtx 1054 Its a nice tractor ,,i mow 2 hrs every week ,,it has it problems ,,but you have help me work on it and figure out whats wrong ,,I want to thank you, for getting me back to working on motors again..
I've done a few like that. Was told they don't always put enough oil in it at the factory. First I drained the old oil out so the new oil wouldn't conflict. New axle seals then rotate the pulley back and forth with a drill and socket on the pulley to make sure the 5/30 synthetic wouldn't conflict. The machines are still running. Good video.
Here’s a tip for getting out seals. Get a small slide hammer about 12 inch along or so. Pretty much any slide hammer comes with an attachment that you can insert a hex head screw into. With the screw attached to the slide hammer you screw it into the metal part of seal and slide hammer it out. Did this a lot when I work for a GM car dealership.
Your video was very helpful.. I was able to change the axel seal and get my 2013 cub up and running again. Seals were available at my local dealer for $4.75.. Thanks again for your video it was very helpful.. Keep up the great work...
I have been truly enjoying your videos on repairing high ticket items that people either couldn't figure out how to fix it or didn't have the financial resources to have it fixed. I have worked in a support roll in Southern California when I had a Telecommunications Company serving med to large businesses including all of the Production Lots like Paramount. So I know a great narrator when I see one and you are a natural. Thank you for taking the time and if you ever want to partner with me to sell and market your videos I think we both can achieve even in a small way a good revenue stream. Peace, Lou Grossi
I have the same problem with my cub cadet. I planned on getting to it from above . I realized I could, by simply lifting the battery out and taking the battery box out giving me plenty of access to the oil plug. You won't need to go to all the trouble of dismantling everything the way he did!
Your videos are so informative, I really appreciate how you go into detail and explain things. Extremely helpful!! Thanks and keep the great videos coming.
I have a 1985 Craftsman I Rider, originally it came with a 12 HP Tecumseh Engine. In your opinion would I be better off putting a Tecumseh back in or swap it w/a Brigs? I have both engines and both run fine. What is your opinion?
Brian Foster saw your question, I'm a thirty year small engine shop owner. on your engine, if it runs fine and doesn't use oil, I'd continue to use it. on the opposite side of the coin, Tecumseh/ Lawson power products was sold several years ago, and the Tecumseh engine was shut down, and is no longer in business. no new parts are manufactured, only parts available are what warehouses and remaining dealers stock, and that is becoming slim. if a major problem occurs, I'd switch to the briggs
Great video and great comments. I have this exact model and it looks like I have the same issues. If needed, you can access that fill port through the battery box, you have enough access to take the fill plug off, check the oil (same way you did), and fill it with a funnel.
great video and info. sad that those transaxles do not last. I just purchased a used Cub cadet and the same problem. I will try adding oil. I just put a new drive belt. again, great video. thank you
I had the same problem. Transmission seal on top leaking, no drive and no oil in the case. Removed battery and filled transmission up with long funnel. Test drives like a new mower. Thank you for the post. You saved me lots of $$$$.
great video! I went to school for hydraulic technology and rebuild these transmissions. :) They want you to think they are sealed, but it's bs :) Thanks for sharing another great video !
I just love what you do I do the same thing just pull it apart and try and make it work, win lose who cares it’s our passion for fixing, thank you take care.
Them HydoGear trans axles are prone to that failure. We used to just change the seal in them now I do the entire trans. the play in the axle is like many I see don't matter how many hours. I probably changed six under warranty this week. When you adjust the valves throw the cork gasket away and use loctite black rtv. check the right hand side of the block at the closure plate for a crack.
You can sometimes use a screw to screw into the metal base of the seal and use a pair of pliers to give a quick pull out. This will sometimes pull the seal out. If one doesn't do it you can use two across from each other. Deck type screw works well.
Awesome free tractor. I don't have any of the things that you have like a lift, or a hoarde, but I have a couple of lawn tractors I work on. I got one for free a 1998 Murray 17.5hp Tecumseh, and a 2001 Poulan Pro 18.5hp I bought on Craigslist for $325.00. I had never worked on a small engine before but I managed to get them both up and running and mowing. I just wish I had your resources. God bless!
I realize that I'm commenting on an old presentation, but since there is a dearth of mower and tiller videos this time of year, I'm catching up on some missed videos. I would have preferred if you have included footage of dropping the transmission, as I have a similar Cub Cadet and would be interested in how easily the process went. A bit of a tip on cleaning up axles, I use a nylon abrasive disc in a grinder (corded) to clean axles. It is especially good on larger axles, such those on trailers. It cleans off gunk and removes rust without scoring the surface, as some metal abrasive discs can do. You can go at it hard as you like without fear of damaging anything. It does tend to overheat the disc and even melt them at times. I use relatively inexpensive discs from Harbor Freight and don't fret over them as a consumable. I look forward to the cutting season when you will be getting riding and push mowers, along with garden tillers and other sundry small engine equipment in for our viewing enjoyment. Thanks for the great videos and the great tips.
Nice video. My Tuff Torque needs 20W50. Their website allowed the tranaxles model to be identified by serial number, from which the oil to use. I plan to change the oil now after 20 years (estimated 450 hours of use). Thanks for posting this video.
I saw the tear down on a peerless and saw they were not service friendly. Since your just needed fluid and seals, what a deal! Its amazing how people will just give up on something rather than fix something. Pretty darn crazy! Simetimes you can drill a hile in the seal and screw a screw into it and pull the seal out. Pulling them is FUN!
I bought a Husqvarna at Lowe's in 2012 that had this same tranny. It went out inside of 30 days, and the store did a full replacement without the hassle of a warranty. The replacement lasted about 4 years before the tranny went out. There was no way I was sinking money into it since it was the 2nd time I've had the same issue, and I wanted to get a zero-turn so I went with a Scag. But that Husqvarna is still sitting on my property. I've been binging your videos for a few days, and I think I'm going to make that Husqvarna a learning project. I'm almost positive this is the same tranny issue you fixed in this video, plus I'll get the opportunity to do some engine work while I'm at it (I used to go fire up the engine from time to time because is has a 22hp Kohler and seemed to be a solid engine that I could use in something else, but I haven't done that in over a year now). I figure I have nothing to lose...if I can't fix it I'm not out anything but some time and a little $$ on parts, but if I do fix it I have another working mower that I could maybe sell on craigslist and get it off my property. Sounds like a fun weekend (or two) project either way.
2015 xt1 had very same problem. Started with no reverse. Bad axle seal, all tranny fluid leaked out. Replace seal and fluid, all is well . Your video gave me hope to try it. Thanks so much!
I’ve had an experience with these transmissions previously: usually they can b repaired. A lot of times the stud on top of internal drive will pop due to excessive abuse. Yes they are serviceable.
I’m glad to see the new seal stopped the drip of transaxle go juice ~ However it was installed backwards , and if this was a pressurized system (rather than Static) it would leak . The sealed fluid is suppose to put pressure on the Lip to force it down on the shaft (I/e front crankshaft seal) etc . Just tryin’ to H.E.L.P. / Be Blessed Sir
Hey, thanks for the inspiration, I just picked up a couple nice DR mowers and bush hog/finish mower from an old barn. been siting for 10 years, gas tanks clean, oil clean so I am going to attempt a recovery and start up. they are worth a lot if running good.. thanks again.
Found your channel because I watch everything from AvE and Bigclive and this is all great stuff. I've learned a ton so thanks for that. Definitely going to be doing some checking on my snow blower before winter this year; based on your videos on those I'm guessing my drive wheel needs some adjustment on the disc because 1st is really loose/weak feeling. But AoL?! Seriously?! Let me know if I can lend you some computer help ever. That's what I do.
Noooooo - Don’t do that! Mustie1 is thriving in the land of resurrecting 20 year old machines. He has a wide and deep selection of hand and power tools appropriate to the mechanical side of that work - which he combines with a seemingly infinite array of mental talents. So, when he needs to turn to a means of researching and ordering parts, and seeking technical info on an ancient in-shop machine, he turns to a vintage laptop - (His son’s college PC ?) with a well broken-in finger pad, running a 20 year old App on win-2000, or (shudder) win xp. What could be more appropriate? Don’t change it. Enjoy the thought.
Like you, when I drained and filled the transmission on my honda hrr216vla this year, I filled it to about 75% of it capacity. I was later to find out the refill capacity was 4.0 ounces. So I pulled it back down and filled it with 4.0 ounces of synthetic 10W30 motor oil. Four ounces completely filled the transmission but I put it Mack together and it runs fine. My brother told me later these transmissions run completely filled with lubricant. I will bet the cub cadet runs, simarlarly.
i rebuilt my neighbors hydrostatic trans last summer and it works great just needed a drive belt as well but they didn't believe me so they took it to the dealer and he told them the same thing and put a new belt n and they are still using it 5 yrs later. i had never rebuilt a hydrostatic before, it was fun.
For future reference you can possibly drill a hole into the side of the seal, thread in a good strong wood screw and attach a slide hammer to the screw head and yank it that way. Then on new seals, if the fit isn't as tight as you would like you can put some rtv on the outside of the seal and drive it in.
Hey Darrin, I guess you didn't hear me when I was shouting, "Use motorcycle oil", as they are formulated for wet clutches and they say that the synthetic oil is best, though I used the regular stuff in my Peerless that I resurrected last Summer. It worked well through the Winter plowing snow for me. It has always been winy since I got it and did add a little more to it later on. There should be another plug on top of your transaxle as well, to put gear oil in, as it is two sided, one for the transmission and the other for the drive axle unit/differential. Great save!
@@mustie1 what year is the cub cadet your working on???? Because the one I have won't go into reverse or forward but when I take mine apart it's got U bolts that hold the rear end to the frame when I take them U bolts off there's no system like this one???? Any ideas would be great. Thanks in advance
To remove old seals take a sharp drywall screw and a phillips on a drill and put in edge of seal and it will walk right off the axle as I have removed hundreds that way in super tight spots! Like u r vids!
due to the cold weather i use 50 wt full synthetic motor oil in mine. Turn the key back 1 click after it starts and push the orange triangle and it will allow the PTO to stay running in reverse. I put a little shorter belt because they stretch alot and that solved the issue for me.
Thank you so much for this video. I did take someone's advice that the fill port could be accessed by removing the battery. I filled with oil and it is running again. I have not addressed the issue of where it is leaking yet but I really need to get my yard mowed so will address that problem later.
I owned a 50" cub cadet and the mower belt kept coming off. I had it back to the dealer a couple times but after using it a few times it would start coming off. It always came off when engaging the blades. A factory rep suggested that maybe I was making come off on purpose. I finally junked it for my next lawnmower headache, a toro zero turn mower that couldn't pass a wet section of lawn without getting stuck. It has now been replaced with a Poulan pro 42" riding mower that seems to be doing ok. The problem with it is that the seat, while adjustable is too close to the steering while and the ride is very jarring. I had better luck with an MTD that I used for 15yrs before I thought I needed a cub cadet. Anyway I hope you don't have to change the belt.
I wish you the best on that young man and you're going to need all the luck you can get most people I know that have one of them they say three Hail Marys before they start mowing
The 2 bade cub cadets have a crappy bush the deck engagement pulley acts on....made one with a larger top flange gave it more bearing area which fixed the misalignment...not criticizing but was an effective fix for a poor initial design and possibly better than bending the idler bracket...cheers great channel taught me lots
Defeating planned obsolescence one project at a time! I love these videos. IMO, "user serviceability" should be a requirement for any equipment (automobiles included) sold in the US. But that would destroy the aftermarket I suppose.
I found a similar problem with my LT1050 with a HydroGear tranny (low oil). I heated a 16 penny nail and melted a hole in the top of the reservoir tank, then used a thin metal tube to "inject" about a pint of 20W50 oil (which is what mine called for) into the system. Then sealed it with an short screw that I put an O-ring under the head. Purged the air from the system & it worked fine, at least as good as it ever did. I mow about 2 acres with it. Local shop told me to throw it out & buy a better mower, but for $30...it works. At least now I can fill it without dropping the tranny. Added a drain plug to it as well (drilled & tapped for a 6mm flanged head with a rubber gasket seal.)
Just a suggestion for next time you need to check oil in something like this. Have some drinking straws in your workshop, you put the straw in and then put you finger over the end. As long as you keep your finger over the end it will hold the oil (or any other fluid) in the straw and you can see how full it is. When you've seen it point the end over the hole and remove your finger and the oil comes out into the container again. Like I said just a suggestion but I do this and it saves a fair bit of hassle. (I found this out as a kid playing with straws in drinks lol)
The oil leaked out of my transmission over the winter. I removed the seat, battery, and lifted out the battery tray to access the transmission vent. Added 1.5 quarts of Castrol 5w/30. Idled for 5 minutes and worked like a charm. Thank you so much for the video instruction. Helped tremendously!
My brother-in-laws cub and I think the same model had this seal problem , so we called a service center and it had a kind of recall . It went in for new seals but they popped for a whole new trans . So don't be afraid to ask them for a fix .
I bought one like it for 50 bucks Put fluid in trans , it was also leaking out of left side, but it worked great Replace the seal and been using it for 4 years on one acre of grass and weeds
Mustie1, Nice fix!!! Tractor looks good for 500+hrs on it, they must keep the teenage kids off of it.... I try to stay away from the hydro drive tractors, when I get one, I look at it as parts, though now, I'm going to have to check the oil level, thanks for the lesson!
if you ever work on another cub cadet again, if you push in the break and push the big botton under the wheel, it will bypass all the safety BS so you can turn it on with just the key and you dont have to sit on it, love the vids
I was told the same lie by John Deere maintenance when the hydro static transmission seal went out exactly like the one in this video. "It's a throwaway lawnmower" they said. The seal leaked at 400 hours. Had I found Mustie 1 year ago, I could have saved $1800. Fortunately I still have the mower and it will be repaired now. Thank you Mustie
I worked for JD for one summer and they were screwing the older folks and stealing their mowers plus over charging them for new ones Then they wonted me to fix them so they could resale them I walked out 😅
Hey brother i have at least 11 push mower `s , some i have bought used , ,some i have found on the side of the road about 6 of them on the side of of the road!! I need some my brother! By the way you do really good work !! i `am not that good i have had auto shop in high school ! You doing a great job I could sure use your help around here !!Mr Alan Patterson
Look for a fill plug. It may take an allen head socket to get it out if you find it (mine was tight). On my tractor I took the filter off the transmission to drain the oil. It drains out quick to get a pan ready. I don't know if it had a drain plug or not. Sometimes that sort of stuff is hard to find information on and thus they may appear to not be user serviceable. I also think that they don't want you to service it and make it last longer because they would rather have repeat business. It is the same with most newer cars these days, they seal the transmissions and leave you with no way to check the fluid levels in them and that makes it very difficult to maintain the transmission.
Thanks for this video, I have a Craftsman with what I think is the same transmission and the estimate was too much. I will check and see if mine has the same issue with the seal.
my ltx 1046 has same problem ,purchased 04/04/2017 ,thanks for the info.mine should be under warranty,the manufacturer is surely aware of these problems
I have a used LTX 1045 and the only good part of the mower is the Kohler engine. Even the OEM spindles were garbage. The originals didn't have a grease fitting so their premature death was inevitable.
I picked up a used one just like that . Had the same issue with a pulley we had to end up building and Welding a little bracket underneath it for it to sit on top of. I will never own another club cadet. Every bolt on the engine was loose. When you would engage the blades they would run for about 5 seconds and then cut off. We finally figured out they had something to do with that triangle shaped button on the dash. If you turned it on in the right sequence it would mow for a good 15 minutes before you shut off. It was a nightmare. Was so happy the day I sold it
I have the LTX1042. I have had the hardest time keeping a belt on the deck - it has a drive belt and a blade timing belt. I ended up taking a flat idler off it and putting a V idler in its place. There is also a noisy pulley when the left pedal is released, the noise goes away when the pedal is pressed.
Just to let you know, the real fill hole is below the fan. Just take the snap ring off, and pull the fan off to access the fill hole. There is a magnet in there as well.
My fan blade got wasted (all fins came off) but I leave it on there for spacing. The transmission will become sluggish (and stop on hills) when it gets hot (about an hour of mowing). Have to let it set for several hours or else change the trans fluid out. I have a 2oz syringe with 18" plastic tube which I use to pull the old oil out and then put new fluid in. I usually just wait to let it cool but at least there is a stand by alternative of fluid change.
@@2Truth4LibertyThe fan cools the transaxle. It slows down and becomes sluggish because it’s overheating. Cleaning the fins and replacing the fan will help with the sluggishness.
The side of the seal where you can see the spring always goes to the inside. On rare occasions, two seals get stacked. In that case, maybe spring-to-spring.
Thanks for the video I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT1 that has the same issue, mine is still under warranty but its still nice to know how to fix it for when it goes out again and I'm sure it will. they dont make them like they used to.
*I have a 1998 John Deere STX48 that actually has a cap on it that you fill the rear end up with and a Bung plug that you drain the old fluid out with, these should have a similar fill plug on top of them too. back in 1998 i guess they were servicable still. why they supposedly aren't now is beyond me, this is handy though because i have the same hydrostatic rear end in my Craftsman GT3000 54" cut 24HP Briggs that i bought 5 years ago now. (thankfully still going even with 450 hours on it) now i know it's just seals and filling it up again, think if mine starts leaking though i'll put synthetic in it to replace the old stuff as well as putting in a new seal. the same transmission is in John Deere, Husqvarna, Scotts, Snapper, Huskie, and maybe (not 100% sure) even the new MTD's. they all seem to be stamped out at the same place now. as the rear pans for them all are identical*
Hi Mustie, I'd be interested in seeing a video of your recommendations as to what brand or type of tractor you like best for quality of construction, durability and ease of repairs along with what features to look for such when shopping for a used or new tractor. Something along the lines of your video on the differences (advantages and disadvantages) between a Beetle and a Super Beetle would be great.
I believe tuff torq sells the parts. The dealers just sell the whole thing. Brainsmobile 1 has a great series,of videos where he has the info on parts which seemed reasonable. He said that the, units are shipped dry to cub cadet for example who then puts in the oil of their choice. The people that make the trans have their own recommendation for lube which is like 5w-50 synthetic.
That sounds like an excuse by Tuff Torque. These are a sealed unit and should be filled at the manufacturer with the fluid the manufacturer requires. Many gearbox manufacturers now use a reservoir to provide room for expansion and make certin the box stays full of oil. With no dipstick, there is no way for the owner to tell if the level is too low until it fails. I suspect there aren't any bushings on the axle so the aluminum housing wears, so the axle gets off center in the seal and leaks. The seal cavity seemed to be deep enough to make a bronze bushing with a seal. Whoever designed that transmission and all of their progeny should be sterilized because stupid people shouldn't breed.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 "Stupid", huh? Sell a cheap piece of crap, have it fail after 500 hours, and then sell another one to the same guy! That's an evil genius in my book! Corporate America is holding us hostage, and we keep voting in the same idiots who just keep letting it happen, "because regulation is bad for business".
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 If things were made to last you probably couldn't afford to buy it. I have always heard that auto dealers don't make their money selling cars, they make it from fixing them.
There is a corkscrew device on a small cable with T handle that works for pulling seals sometimes. Turn the tires to the inside and check Toe-in. Fill to within 1" of the top. Work back and forth with tow lever disengaged to release trapped air. Bar Code should tell you what tranny. L-46? Never jerk on those axles or you will pull the C clip off inside the trans and then the fun starts. Belt idler is supposed to be on an angle.
I have a old 1965 unit still running and going strong ,rebuilt the motor about ten years ago ,will start right up with just a couple cranks of the generator.
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That’s probably a k46 tuff torq! There is a number on the back of the transmission on the back of the axle. It’s take 2.2 liter of 5w-50 transmission fluid. Original oil in it was Probably 10-30 oil but turf torq recommends 5-50 trans fluid. The filler cap is under the fan. You pulled up the vent cap that releases pressure inside the trans case when it gets hot. Also I would recommend you empty the dirty oil and put new in it. The fill cap has a magnet under it that catch’s metal shavings from the trans and needs to be cleaned. 2.2 liters should get you at the top where it should be. Plus in order to get air out of the trans you need to turn the trans from side to side to get the air out of the trans. It be nice to hook a drill up our at least turn the pulley on top of the trans to get air out also and see if the wheels actually turn before you put it back together. Remember to pull the the leaver that’s hooked up to your peddle for forward and backward to get the trans to respond to turning the pulley on top of the trans.
Nearly every time a seal leaking bad it’s just replace seal and fill it , your mowing again 😊😊😊
Mustie1 it's always a learning experience watching you repair equipment. I've learned a LOT more concerning yard equipment repair since watching numerous videos of yours. When I have an issue I try and see if you have a video dealing with the same issue....KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
For $72 a complete seal kit fixed a 2014 Cub Cadet LTX 1045 Tuff Torq K46 Transmission/transaxle Assembly. Your video on how to do the job is priceless! Thanks
I love when the manufacturer says non serviceable. That means there are guys all over proving them wrong as per Mustie1. Good Going Mustie. Keep up the great work.
I have been trying to catch up on all your videos, and I am truly enjoying them and learning a lot from you. My father in law just bought a cub cadet at an auction this spring and was using it in his yard and the trans went, well, I wish I would have seen your video sooner, I could have saved him some serious cash, the trans went out in his and he took it to the shop and wound up putting a whole new tans in it, and was not happy about it, he got it with the mower deck and a snowblower. the motor is strong, so I hope I can fix it as easy as you did the next time it happens.
I really enjoy your videos and how you go step by step with any project you do, I am a "back yard mower mechanic," I know enough to get them running, but you have taught me so much just by doing these videos. Please keep them coming.
I like these videos how you manage to save equipment that people pitch to the curb. "You can't beat experience," they say. I had 37 year where I work on a Plant Chemical Process. When I use to walk into the place,I didn't worry about what problems I was dealt, because I been there and done it before. I would have a chuckle when a young whipper tried to out do me, but I trained them like I wanted to be trained when I started out. Sharing the knowledge, like you do. Thanks.
I have watched a few of your videos.
You do a great job at fixing, tossed out junk.
I grew up in an age that people use to fix things, but now they just toss it out.
It is good to see that someone can and still fixes things…
Keep up the good work, and keep making your good videos..
I feel like I am back in my grandfather’s garage fixing thing with him again...
SuperLee47 jj. The hypothesis oiiijn
IKR guys like this are the heart of RUclips! true modern day heroes.
Nothing's more rewarding than repairing something that everybody, including the manufacturer, says is sealed, no parts available, blah blah blah and then fix it anyway, often for a few bucks. Happened to me so many times.
Keep up with your vids. I learn something every time !
I’m working on an older Honda lawn tractor and although a different problem I appreciate your thinking as you observe various systems and specifics. You do good work.
Great stuff, keep it coming Mustie. Appreciate your time in filming/editing and posting the video’s.
My tractor gave up on the hydro and I was happy to see you had done this video and now I'm going to see how I do. I really glad I discovered your presence on you tube. Thanks so much
I owned one of those for a few years. One failure right after another..... bought a zero turn gravely..... best machine I ever had
Hey mustie, the pitch on the pulley is set to keep the belt off the leading edge or outer rim of the pulley to prevent belt wear. You got it by eye, just don't let the belt ride the pulley edge. IH (International Harvester) loves this set up. It used to run belt power trains where the belts come in at opposing angles. Great work man. I'D be happy to come down and pick up that VW halfy anytime. just give me the nod! Love your channel man. I'm with you, "outside, dickin around in the garage"
Poor engine oil pick up on hills and transaxles not rated to pull the tractor up a hill are the two most common scams perpetrated on the consumer. The TuffTorq K 46 is only made for dead flat ground. It is not until you get up to TT K66 OR hydrogear G730 that you have dependable hill service. To a one-- the dealers pretend that they have no idea of what happened. Most sites do not even list the transaxle models that are used. They want you buying a new $1700 lawn tractor every few years. Your video does a good job showing how they go out of their way to prevent changing the oil or even topping it off.
Those transaxles are utter garbage... I'm amazed there hasn't been a class action suit against every brand that uses them.
Yours is one of my favorite channels just recently found and sub. Just love that a LITTLE trouble shoot finds minor things that can be addressed and put the machine back inservice. This video is a prime example. Have a large dose of the pack rat also does payoff. Fixing the 2 tractors was intirely a matter of labor as you were able to salvage all the parts necessary of other old scrape. case in point that old mower deck most would have trashed as it was so eaten up with rust. but it had good useable components, that were exactly what you needed to fix the craftman tractor's deck , and a look shoed a leaking seal quick rummage thru the catch all seal collection. and a little 10w30. Viola fixed, not field serviceable??HA!!Never doubt that your videos a watched and appreciated.....
Ive got a cub cadet Gtx 1054 Its a nice tractor ,,i mow 2 hrs every week ,,it has it problems ,,but you have help me work on it and figure out whats wrong ,,I want to thank you, for getting me back to working on motors again..
I've done a few like that. Was told they don't always put enough oil in it at the factory. First I drained the old oil out so the new oil wouldn't conflict. New axle seals then rotate the pulley back and forth with a drill and socket on the pulley to make sure the 5/30 synthetic wouldn't conflict. The machines are still running. Good video.
Here’s a tip for getting out seals. Get a small slide hammer about 12 inch along or so. Pretty much any slide hammer comes with an attachment that you can insert a hex head screw into. With the screw attached to the slide hammer you screw it into the metal part of seal and slide hammer it out. Did this a lot when I work for a GM car dealership.
Your video was very helpful.. I was able to change the axel seal and get my 2013 cub up and running again. Seals were available at my local dealer for $4.75.. Thanks again for your video it was very helpful.. Keep up the great work...
John Zeiser a
Can you give me a part number or size for that seal?
Just wanted to say I found your channel by accident but have subscribed and enjoy it immensely.
Bob/Okc
I have been truly enjoying your videos on repairing high ticket items that people either couldn't figure out how to fix it or didn't have the financial resources to have it fixed. I have worked in a support roll in Southern California when I had a Telecommunications Company serving med to large businesses including all of the Production Lots like Paramount. So I know a great narrator when I see one and you are a natural. Thank you for taking the time and if you ever want to partner with me to sell and market your videos I think we both can achieve even in a small way a good revenue stream. Peace, Lou Grossi
When and how do we do this
I have the same problem with my cub cadet. I planned on getting to it from above . I realized I could, by simply lifting the battery out and taking the battery box out giving me plenty of access to the oil plug. You won't need to go to all the trouble of dismantling everything the way he did!
Yes, but, hey.... this guy is a really nice fella here! His videos are really enjoyable! He could video PAINT DRYING..... and he'd get 500k views!!!!
Your videos are so informative, I really appreciate how you go into detail and explain things. Extremely helpful!! Thanks and keep the great videos coming.
thanks for watchin
I have a 1985 Craftsman I Rider, originally it came with a 12 HP Tecumseh Engine. In your opinion would I be better off putting a Tecumseh back in or swap it w/a Brigs? I have both engines and both run fine. What is your opinion?
Brian Foster saw your question, I'm a thirty year small engine shop owner. on your engine, if it runs fine and doesn't use oil, I'd continue to use it. on the opposite side of the coin, Tecumseh/ Lawson power products was sold several years ago, and the Tecumseh engine was shut down, and is no longer in business. no new parts are manufactured, only parts available are what warehouses and remaining dealers stock, and that is becoming slim. if a major problem occurs, I'd switch to the briggs
For seal removal, self tapping screws sometimes do the trick. Then you have something to grab onto.
Great video and great comments. I have this exact model and it looks like I have the same issues. If needed, you can access that fill port through the battery box, you have enough access to take the fill plug off, check the oil (same way you did), and fill it with a funnel.
I'm a woman & know this by watching another women do it. You would think a man would know this instead of going through all that trouble.
great video and info. sad that those transaxles do not last. I just purchased a used Cub cadet and the same problem. I will try adding oil. I just put a new drive belt. again, great video. thank you
I have the same cub cadet. That mower pulley has been a continuing issue. Thanks for the video.
I had the same problem. Transmission seal on top leaking, no drive and no oil in the case. Removed battery and filled transmission up with long funnel. Test drives like a new mower. Thank you for the post. You saved me lots of $$$$.
great video! I went to school for hydraulic technology and rebuild these transmissions. :) They want you to think they are sealed, but it's bs :) Thanks for sharing another great video
!
Thanks for your videos,they're informative and entertaining. Like your clean language and professional manner. Keep up the good work.
I just love what you do I do the same thing just pull it apart and try and make it work, win lose who cares it’s our passion for fixing, thank you take care.
Thank you mustie1 again sir for the education. Love seeing stuff that people throwing away being brought back to life.
Them HydoGear trans axles are prone to that failure. We used to just change the seal in them now I do the entire trans. the play in the axle is like many I see don't matter how many hours. I probably changed six under warranty this week. When you adjust the valves throw the cork gasket away and use loctite black rtv. check the right hand side of the block at the closure plate for a crack.
Wow I hope that doesn't happen to mine. 😟
You can sometimes use a screw to screw into the metal base of the seal and use a pair of pliers to give a quick pull out. This will sometimes pull the seal out. If one doesn't do it you can use two across from each other. Deck type screw works well.
Awesome free tractor. I don't have any of the things that you have like a lift, or a hoarde, but I have a couple of lawn tractors I work on. I got one for free a 1998 Murray 17.5hp Tecumseh, and a 2001 Poulan Pro 18.5hp I bought on Craigslist for $325.00. I had never worked on a small engine before but I managed to get them both up and running and mowing. I just wish I had your resources. God bless!
can't understand why you don't have more subscribers. this is my joint favourite channel twinned with MrHevyshevy. something new every time.
l like those guys/gals too
my favorite channel too along with, MrHevyshevy, 805roadking,old chevy4x4, CLASSIC TRUCK RESCUE, and elderlyiron.
212,000 subscribers isnt enough? That's a ton! Even taryl only has 54k.
300k subscribers is not a small amount at all, its accually alot. I have friends that stream everyday the past 10 years and there barely hitting 10k
@@chrisd8180 Especially when you are just fixing stuff. Which MOST people will not even try to do today.
I realize that I'm commenting on an old presentation, but since there is a dearth of mower and tiller videos this time of year, I'm catching up on some missed videos. I would have preferred if you have included footage of dropping the transmission, as I have a similar Cub Cadet and would be interested in how easily the process went. A bit of a tip on cleaning up axles, I use a nylon abrasive disc in a grinder (corded) to clean axles. It is especially good on larger axles, such those on trailers. It cleans off gunk and removes rust without scoring the surface, as some metal abrasive discs can do. You can go at it hard as you like without fear of damaging anything. It does tend to overheat the disc and even melt them at times. I use relatively inexpensive discs from Harbor Freight and don't fret over them as a consumable. I look forward to the cutting season when you will be getting riding and push mowers, along with garden tillers and other sundry small engine equipment in for our viewing enjoyment. Thanks for the great videos and the great tips.
Nice video. My Tuff Torque needs 20W50. Their website allowed the tranaxles model to be identified by serial number, from which the oil to use. I plan to change the oil now after 20 years (estimated 450 hours of use). Thanks for posting this video.
Mustie , I enjoy your videos mate , love VWs new and old ,as well as Briggs & Stratton engines and Koehlers so keep the Videos coming. Cheers
I saw the tear down on a peerless and saw they were not service friendly. Since your just needed fluid and seals, what a deal! Its amazing how people will just give up on something rather than fix something. Pretty darn crazy! Simetimes you can drill a hile in the seal and screw a screw into it and pull the seal out. Pulling them is FUN!
The chair that looks like a hand is cool, also excellent work diagnosing and fixing the mower!
a couple of dry wall screws makes quick work of removing seals, usually , just screw them in, and the seal pops out, good video
I bought a Husqvarna at Lowe's in 2012 that had this same tranny. It went out inside of 30 days, and the store did a full replacement without the hassle of a warranty. The replacement lasted about 4 years before the tranny went out. There was no way I was sinking money into it since it was the 2nd time I've had the same issue, and I wanted to get a zero-turn so I went with a Scag. But that Husqvarna is still sitting on my property. I've been binging your videos for a few days, and I think I'm going to make that Husqvarna a learning project. I'm almost positive this is the same tranny issue you fixed in this video, plus I'll get the opportunity to do some engine work while I'm at it (I used to go fire up the engine from time to time because is has a 22hp Kohler and seemed to be a solid engine that I could use in something else, but I haven't done that in over a year now). I figure I have nothing to lose...if I can't fix it I'm not out anything but some time and a little $$ on parts, but if I do fix it I have another working mower that I could maybe sell on craigslist and get it off my property. Sounds like a fun weekend (or two) project either way.
2015 xt1 had very same problem. Started with no reverse. Bad axle seal, all tranny fluid leaked out. Replace seal and fluid, all is well . Your video gave me hope to try it. Thanks so much!
I’ve had an experience with these transmissions previously: usually they can b repaired. A lot of times the stud on top of internal drive will pop due to excessive abuse. Yes they are serviceable.
Tuff Torq has a parts breakdown and a manual on line. I rebuilt mine on my John Deere.
Man what a score, glad you are going to do a video about the lift I'm curious too.
Thanks very much for this informative post. You just helped me save $$$ and got my cub cadet cutting again!
It's awesome when you get a hold of a find like that and fix it for like $20 when you think it's a write off. Home Run for you man!
thanks
I’m glad to see the new seal stopped the drip of transaxle go juice ~ However it was installed backwards , and if this was a pressurized system (rather than Static) it would leak . The sealed fluid is suppose to put pressure on the Lip to force it down on the shaft (I/e front crankshaft seal) etc . Just tryin’ to H.E.L.P. / Be Blessed Sir
Hey, thanks for the inspiration, I just picked up a couple nice DR mowers and bush hog/finish mower from an old barn. been siting for 10 years, gas tanks clean, oil clean so I am going to attempt a recovery and start up. they are worth a lot if running good.. thanks again.
Learned a lot watching your videos. With that, I have maintenance to preform on my own tractor today so I guess I'd better get to it!.
Found your channel because I watch everything from AvE and Bigclive and this is all great stuff. I've learned a ton so thanks for that. Definitely going to be doing some checking on my snow blower before winter this year; based on your videos on those I'm guessing my drive wheel needs some adjustment on the disc because 1st is really loose/weak feeling. But AoL?! Seriously?! Let me know if I can lend you some computer help ever. That's what I do.
Noooooo - Don’t do that!
Mustie1 is thriving in the land of resurrecting 20 year old machines. He has a wide and deep selection of hand and power tools appropriate to the mechanical side of that work - which he combines with a seemingly infinite array of mental talents.
So, when he needs to turn to a means of researching and ordering parts, and seeking technical info on an ancient in-shop machine, he turns to a vintage laptop - (His son’s college PC ?) with a well broken-in finger pad, running a 20 year old App on win-2000, or (shudder) win xp.
What could be more appropriate? Don’t change it.
Enjoy the thought.
Like you, when I drained and filled the transmission on my honda hrr216vla this year, I filled it to about 75% of it capacity. I was later to find out the refill capacity was 4.0 ounces. So I pulled it back down and filled it with 4.0 ounces of synthetic 10W30 motor oil. Four ounces completely filled the transmission but I put it Mack together and it runs fine. My brother told me later these transmissions run completely filled with lubricant. I will bet the cub cadet runs, simarlarly.
i rebuilt my neighbors hydrostatic trans last summer and it works great just needed a drive belt as well but they didn't believe me so they took it to the dealer and he told them the same thing and put a new belt n and they are still using it 5 yrs later. i had never rebuilt a hydrostatic before, it was fun.
Use a sheet rock screw when trying to seals out screw a couple in and pull. Great vids! I doo the same crap all the time.
For future reference you can possibly drill a hole into the side of the seal, thread in a good strong wood screw and attach a slide hammer to the screw head and yank it that way. Then on new seals, if the fit isn't as tight as you would like you can put some rtv on the outside of the seal and drive it in.
Hey Darrin, I guess you didn't hear me when I was shouting, "Use motorcycle oil", as they are formulated for wet clutches and they say that the synthetic oil is best, though I used the regular stuff in my Peerless that I resurrected last Summer. It worked well through the Winter plowing snow for me. It has always been winy since I got it and did add a little more to it later on. There should be another plug on top of your transaxle as well, to put gear oil in, as it is two sided, one for the transmission and the other for the drive axle unit/differential. Great save!
ya gotta be just a little louder
@@mustie1 what year is the cub cadet your working on????
Because the one I have won't go into reverse or forward but when I take mine apart it's got U bolts that hold the rear end to the frame when I take them U bolts off there's no system like this one???? Any ideas would be great. Thanks in advance
To remove old seals take a sharp drywall screw and a phillips on a drill and put in edge of seal and it will walk right off the axle as I have removed hundreds that way in super tight spots! Like u r vids!
Amazing what you can do with the right tools, I’m jealous!
due to the cold weather i use 50 wt full synthetic motor oil in mine. Turn the key back 1 click after it starts and push the orange triangle and it will allow the PTO to stay running in reverse. I put a little shorter belt because they stretch alot and that solved the issue for me.
Thank you so much for this video. I did take someone's advice that the fill port could be accessed by removing the battery. I filled with oil and it is running again. I have not addressed the issue of where it is leaking yet but I really need to get my yard mowed so will address that problem later.
I owned a 50" cub cadet and the mower belt kept coming off. I had it back to the dealer a couple times but after using it a few times it would start coming off. It always came off when engaging the blades. A factory rep suggested that maybe I was making come off on purpose. I finally junked it for my next lawnmower headache, a toro zero turn mower that couldn't pass a wet section of lawn without getting stuck. It has now been replaced with a Poulan pro 42" riding mower that seems to be doing ok. The problem with it is that the seat, while adjustable is too close to the steering while and the ride is very jarring. I had better luck with an MTD that I used for 15yrs before I thought I needed a cub cadet. Anyway I hope you don't have to change the belt.
I wish you the best on that young man and you're going to need all the luck you can get most people I know that have one of them they say three Hail Marys before they start mowing
The 2 bade cub cadets have a crappy bush the deck engagement pulley acts on....made one with a larger top flange gave it more bearing area which fixed the misalignment...not criticizing but was an effective fix for a poor initial design and possibly better than bending the idler bracket...cheers great channel taught me lots
I use an old tire tool with a slot cut in the straight end to make pulley "adjustments". Works well for me. Just a thought!
Defeating planned obsolescence one project at a time! I love these videos. IMO, "user serviceability" should be a requirement for any equipment (automobiles included) sold in the US. But that would destroy the aftermarket I suppose.
It'd help the aftermarket, OEM is usually expensive and u can get better quality stuff for cheaper with aftermarket most of the time
That would help the aftermarket, because the user could then choose the best parts to fix the issue.
I found a similar problem with my LT1050 with a HydroGear tranny (low oil). I heated a 16 penny nail and melted a hole in the top of the reservoir tank, then used a thin metal tube to "inject" about a pint of 20W50 oil (which is what mine called for) into the system. Then sealed it with an short screw that I put an O-ring under the head. Purged the air from the system & it worked fine, at least as good as it ever did. I mow about 2 acres with it. Local shop told me to throw it out & buy a better mower, but for $30...it works. At least now I can fill it without dropping the tranny. Added a drain plug to it as well (drilled & tapped for a 6mm flanged head with a rubber gasket seal.)
Just a suggestion for next time you need to check oil in something like this. Have some drinking straws in your workshop, you put the straw in and then put you finger over the end. As long as you keep your finger over the end it will hold the oil (or any other fluid) in the straw and you can see how full it is. When you've seen it point the end over the hole and remove your finger and the oil comes out into the container again.
Like I said just a suggestion but I do this and it saves a fair bit of hassle. (I found this out as a kid playing with straws in drinks lol)
A big thumbs up! You are a natural teacher.
The oil leaked out of my transmission over the winter. I removed the seat, battery, and lifted out the battery tray to access the transmission vent. Added 1.5 quarts of Castrol 5w/30. Idled for 5 minutes and worked like a charm. Thank you so much for the video instruction. Helped tremendously!
My brother-in-laws cub and I think the same model had this seal problem , so we called a service center and it had a kind of recall . It went in for new seals but they popped for a whole new trans . So don't be afraid to ask them for a fix .
Such a joy when you can get something going with what you have....
I bought one like it for 50 bucks
Put fluid in trans , it was also leaking out of left side, but it worked great
Replace the seal and been using it for 4 years on one acre of grass and weeds
Tuff Torq: "No user serviceable parts"...
Mustie1: "Hold my beer"
Perfect
That is his attitude
i live in Wisconsin. I have rebuilt several of these TUFF TORQ 57s. Saved a bunch of Riders from the junk yard. i even have Cores on hand.
Mustie1, Nice fix!!! Tractor looks good for 500+hrs on it, they must keep the teenage kids off of it.... I try to stay away from the hydro drive tractors, when I get one, I look at it as parts, though now, I'm going to have to check the oil level, thanks for the lesson!
l got it thinking parts too
Doublewide6 has a video on the TuffTorq transmission. You can get parts from them. I guess they were very helpful.
if you ever work on another cub cadet again, if you push in the break and push the big botton under the wheel, it will bypass all the safety BS so you can turn it on with just the key and you dont have to sit on it, love the vids
What big button
I was told the same lie by John Deere maintenance when the hydro static transmission seal went out exactly like the one in this video. "It's a throwaway lawnmower" they said. The seal leaked at 400 hours. Had I found Mustie 1 year ago, I could have saved $1800. Fortunately I still have the mower and it will be repaired now. Thank you Mustie
I worked for JD for one summer and they were screwing the older folks and stealing their mowers plus over charging them for new ones
Then they wonted me to fix them so they could resale them
I walked out 😅
Hey brother i have at least 11 push mower `s , some i have bought used , ,some i have found on the side of the road about 6 of them on the side of of the road!! I need some my brother! By the way you do really good work !! i `am not that good i have had auto shop in high school ! You doing a great job I could sure use your help around here !!Mr Alan Patterson
I've never seen such a clean lawn tractor, 500 + hours and it doesn't look like it's ever seen a lawn.
Tractor supply has a great selection of belts.. I purchased one for my craftsman mower 42 inch deck for 18 bucks
Look for a fill plug. It may take an allen head socket to get it out if you find it (mine was tight). On my tractor I took the filter off the transmission to drain the oil. It drains out quick to get a pan ready. I don't know if it had a drain plug or not. Sometimes that sort of stuff is hard to find information on and thus they may appear to not be user serviceable. I also think that they don't want you to service it and make it last longer because they would rather have repeat business. It is the same with most newer cars these days, they seal the transmissions and leave you with no way to check the fluid levels in them and that makes it very difficult to maintain the transmission.
Thanks for this video, I have a Craftsman with what I think is the same transmission and the estimate was too much. I will check and see if mine has the same issue with the seal.
I picked up a 93 model Toro Wheel Horse to play with. I'm very glad it has a Eaton 1100 trans that can be fixed.
my ltx 1046 has same problem ,purchased 04/04/2017 ,thanks for the info.mine should be under warranty,the manufacturer is surely aware of these problems
I have a used LTX 1045 and the only good part of the mower is the Kohler engine. Even the OEM spindles were garbage. The originals didn't have a grease fitting so their premature death was inevitable.
I picked up a used one just like that . Had the same issue with a pulley we had to end up building and Welding a little bracket underneath it for it to sit on top of. I will never own another club cadet. Every bolt on the engine was loose. When you would engage the blades they would run for about 5 seconds and then cut off. We finally figured out they had something to do with that triangle shaped button on the dash. If you turned it on in the right sequence it would mow for a good 15 minutes before you shut off. It was a nightmare. Was so happy the day I sold it
Factory defect. A wire along the left rear grounds out. Just repair the break in the insulation and reroute it.
I have the LTX1042. I have had the hardest time keeping a belt on the deck - it has a drive belt and a blade timing belt.
I ended up taking a flat idler off it and putting a V idler in its place. There is also a noisy pulley when the left pedal is released, the noise goes away when the pedal is pressed.
Just to let you know, the real fill hole is below the fan. Just take the snap ring off, and pull the fan off to access the fill hole. There is a magnet in there as well.
My fan blade got wasted (all fins came off) but I leave it on there for spacing.
The transmission will become sluggish (and stop on hills) when it gets hot (about an hour of mowing).
Have to let it set for several hours or else change the trans fluid out.
I have a 2oz syringe with 18" plastic tube which I use to pull the old oil out and then put new fluid in.
I usually just wait to let it cool but at least there is a stand by alternative of fluid change.
@@2Truth4LibertyThe fan cools the transaxle. It slows down and becomes sluggish because it’s overheating. Cleaning the fins and replacing the fan will help with the sluggishness.
The most fascinating part of these videos is that he still uses AOL.
The side of the seal where you can see the spring always goes to the inside. On rare occasions, two seals get stacked. In that case, maybe spring-to-spring.
Very nice video. Fixed my mower just by adding fluid and fixing seals. Thank you. I created a video on my channel and gave you props.
Thanks for the video I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT1 that has the same issue, mine is still under warranty but its still nice to know how to fix it for when it goes out again and I'm sure it will. they dont make them like they used to.
*I have a 1998 John Deere STX48 that actually has a cap on it that you fill the rear end up with and a Bung plug that you drain the old fluid out with, these should have a similar fill plug on top of them too. back in 1998 i guess they were servicable still. why they supposedly aren't now is beyond me, this is handy though because i have the same hydrostatic rear end in my Craftsman GT3000 54" cut 24HP Briggs that i bought 5 years ago now. (thankfully still going even with 450 hours on it) now i know it's just seals and filling it up again, think if mine starts leaking though i'll put synthetic in it to replace the old stuff as well as putting in a new seal. the same transmission is in John Deere, Husqvarna, Scotts, Snapper, Huskie, and maybe (not 100% sure) even the new MTD's. they all seem to be stamped out at the same place now. as the rear pans for them all are identical*
Looks like you saved it...Good stuff.
...lovin the videos ... keep them coming!
Hi Mustie, I'd be interested in seeing a video of your recommendations as to what brand or type of tractor you like best for quality of construction, durability and ease of repairs along with what features to look for such when shopping for a used or new tractor. Something along the lines of your video on the differences (advantages and disadvantages) between a Beetle and a Super Beetle would be great.
I believe tuff torq sells the parts. The dealers just sell the whole thing. Brainsmobile 1 has a great series,of videos where he has the info on parts which seemed reasonable. He said that the, units are shipped dry to cub cadet for example who then puts in the oil of their choice. The people that make the trans have their own recommendation for lube which is like 5w-50 synthetic.
Jeff Blackwell (‘her 9o9
That sounds like an excuse by Tuff Torque. These are a sealed unit and should be filled at the manufacturer with the fluid the manufacturer requires. Many gearbox manufacturers now use a reservoir to provide room for expansion and make certin the box stays full of oil. With no dipstick, there is no way for the owner to tell if the level is too low until it fails. I suspect there aren't any bushings on the axle so the aluminum housing wears, so the axle gets off center in the seal and leaks. The seal cavity seemed to be deep enough to make a bronze bushing with a seal. Whoever designed that transmission and all of their progeny should be sterilized because stupid people shouldn't breed.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 "Stupid", huh? Sell a cheap piece of crap, have it fail after 500 hours, and then sell another one to the same guy! That's an evil genius in my book! Corporate America is holding us hostage, and we keep voting in the same idiots who just keep letting it happen, "because regulation is bad for business".
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 If things were made to last you probably couldn't afford to buy it. I have always heard that auto dealers don't make their money selling cars, they make it from fixing them.
@@RonKendall48 So.... True!!!!
There is a corkscrew device on a small cable with T handle that works for pulling seals sometimes. Turn the tires to the inside and check Toe-in. Fill to within 1" of the top. Work back and forth with tow lever disengaged to release trapped air. Bar Code should tell you what tranny. L-46? Never jerk on those axles or you will pull the C clip off inside the trans and then the fun starts. Belt idler is supposed to be on an angle.
I have a old 1965 unit still running and going strong ,rebuilt the motor about ten years ago ,will start right up with just a couple cranks of the generator.