I have and enjoy both Mark XX and Spitfire (and I even have the original Big Pilot IW-5002 from 2002), but that identity issue really does bug me... The name "Mark" clearly points to an RAF heritage, but so many of the design cues are taken from the German fliegers, not the least of which is that stupid Junkers aircraft on the caseback. An RAF watch with a German freighter engraved on the back? What is this, a Harvey Dent "2 face" edition? Why not just have both British and German model lines? I don't understand the logic of fusing two pilot watches that belonged to the OPPOSING SIDES. The pilots who wore these watches to combat were trying to shoot each other down. And while I'm griping about the Mark series, for God's sake when will IWC please lume every index instead of just the 4 cardinal indices? I get it, the original Mark XI had lume at 4 points only by request of the RAF. But the whole "Mark" nomenclature means each new entry is an improvement upon the previous model, you know? How much longer will IWC insist on 4-point lume as if we were still in 1940s? Give us a fully lumed dial already!
I personally love that only the cardinal markers and triangle are lumed. It looks very slick in the dark, almost like an aircraft instrument. I think fully luming the dial would also ruin the ultra fine printing, as the lumed markers are slightly raised, contrasting them to the printed markers. Finally, IWC is not a homage brand - I respect them for creating their own unique designs, although they may clash with history, it does concur with the history of the brand supplying both sides.
@revenanke3132 No, sir. IWC's other pilot watches (like Big Pilot 43) have lume on all 12 indices. They CAN do it with absolutely no negative effect on print quality. They just don't because they want to stick to RAF requirements from the 1940s.
This is a true statement and I venture something a lot of the viewers would say but don’t. The quality of the communication and insight on this channel is excellent and individual. 🇿🇦
I completely agree with the aesthetic arguments in this video and it's nice to hear them from someone with such a deeply considered, and obviously sincere, perspective. It's astonishing they have not done a heritage piece recently.
Ah, I appreciate it Bruce, thank you. They could make such a killing in this area by reigniting some of their older designs (not just in the pilot family) Alas, I just don't get it. Have a great weekend sir and thanks again! 🥃
The one reservation I've always had about the current lineup of IWC's "Mark" Pilot watches is their shift in identity. Where they once pulled inspiration from the Iconic Mark 11, they now appear like miniaturised Flieger pieces instead... What changed? Brand recognition? Streamlining? Would you choose an updated Mk.11 Design if they made it? 🥃
I actually would. I have a soft spot for the vintage styles of years gone by. The Mark 11 design looks incredible! It’s reminiscent somewhat of Rolex’s 1016.
I think there was a flieger craze about 10 or 15 years ago... Rightly so because that's an iconic design, and we had Laco,Stowa etc ascendant , so the field watch heritage got forgotten.
I wouldn't - I have the Mark XX but I am also German, so there is that. Or maybe they just let go of the past and focus on what sells instead of pleasing WW2 historians? Money rules!
@@koolpep fair enough, you like what you like. I do enjoy the historical aspect. I have some full size 55mm Laco replicas and enjoy that it has that link to history.
I enjoyed the historical design perspective of the Mark series, just when I thought everything had already been said about it in reviews, this refreshing piece comes along. Looking forward to the next one!
I find myself wanting a collection of Mark pilots watches. It stared with the older versions and on to the ‘EIGHTEEN’ with the Stainless Steel bracelet and all the hidden figures and that dial is so simple it’s what makes it stand out but yet not in your face. Thank you for sharing your passion for IWC with us as it was an enjoyable video. Keep this kind of content coming out more often. Simply wonderful.
I voted with my dollars and bought a Mark XX after trying it on -- for me, wearing is believing with this one, especially with the bracelet. If I had the option of the same watch but with the RAF-style hands and dial, I would have bought it. But I wouldn't give up all the refinements of the Mark XX for the dial and hands. I like these just fine.
Wears awesome and is a great value on the secondary market. I got mine on a bracelet brand new at 5k, and I don't think there is a better watch at that price point.
@@ID-Guy But weren't the flinger style hands introduced in 2006 with the Mark XVI - and since then are used....I prefer the flinger style hands personally. And if customers would not agree they would change them back....
IHere is a thought - isn't that a good thing? Not to be stuck in WW2? Moving on? They never claimed it's a historical true watch....in its current iteration.
The Royal Australian Air Force pilots wore IWC Mark 11 navigator’s watches. In 2020, RAAF KC-30A pilot Nic Barnes collaborated with IWC to create the IWC Mark II Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition RAAF which recalls that early association while feature updates such a 41mm matte black zirconium ceramic case, a date indicator at 3 o’clock and a sunburst blue dial.
I’ve owned my Mark XX now for about 4 months and I got to say, I didn’t think about the watch’s design like this until I got your perspective! I think this is a really good insight, and while I don’t think it necessarily harms the line’s desirability and sales, I would love to see more of a return to form for it. Thanks for the good video!
The Tribute to Mark 11 was great, really missed out on that one. Still find it strange to wear Axis watches, specially around liberation day. Some great designs but feels off and the Germans are very friendly (nowadays). Lets hope for your design. Enjoy the weekend.
Thanks for the video. Really enjoyed it, still enjoying my Mark XX as part of my collection. It's lost its "military" background a long time ago. Probably a good thing. History buffs can buy vintage or any other homage or current military models. Choice is the salt of the earth.
I must admit that the brand that putted me into watches, by the ninetees when I was about sixteen, was (don’t ask me why) Bell&Ross. But the one that became at that time “a grail” was IWC. Stunning era…! Fabolous video… like always…! ❤️
Mark 15 is the one for you brother… every time I look at it, I think “yep, can’t really top this” Bonus points if you can find the OG bracelet 😉 I’d recommend a trip over the Belgium, Amsterdam etc to find a pristine example for a cracking price 🔥
Nice choice. I recently swapped my Mark XVI for a Mark XV as its slightly more compact dimensions I find even more appealing. Marks are my wrist companions for nearly 20 years. Great watches.
I feel that IWC had a style that was lost in the past 10 years. I love their Ingenieur line especially the AMG dual vertical chronograph. Thank bro for the great video.
Great video! Would love myself a Mark XII. It seems you said that both the Mark XV and XII use ETA movements, but actually the XII uses the JLC 889/2, which I find really cool! Apologies if I’m just repeating something you mentioned. Thanks for your work, cheers!
Great rant have the same feeling about the IWC mark watches. Just bought a Hamilton KFA titanium 36mm limited edition because this gives me the mk11 vibes.
Yes, yes, yes... Your Mark XXII design is exactly the way the Mark should be. Every word you said in this video matches my own thoughts on this line of watches. You chose the right handset, removed the flieger dots around the 12 o'clock triangle, fixed the date placement. I'd love to see the date gone altogether but I'd buy the version you designed.
A very interesting and thought provoking horological subject. Despite their great name, I honestly can’t remember the last time I saw an IWC in the wild, nor have I seen an IWC model in recent memory that stirs the loins.
Hmm, thanks for pointing out this mess. I am a big aviation enthusiast and historical accuracy is not the last aspect of my interest, too. Now I understood, what was so confusing for me in IWC watches all this time (while nothing was confusing in my Laco typ B flieger - it looks spot on, except it's 42mm size instead of 55mm).
Actually - I think the XX is practically perfect. It's beautifully simiple to read and has incredble strap versatility (more than any other watch I've ever seen).
exactly. Although I, as watchgeek, understand what ID Guy is talking about, 99.99% people dont care about this RAF/Luftwaffe mumbo-jumbo. (note: I own the XX and for me its perfect GADA watch)
Hello thanks for content. The finishing on the Mark XX is next level. I think it’s a pretty good deal for what you get. You should really consider getting it. I have a black Mark XX and am really happy with it.
Definitely the most interesting & informative channel in RUclips，and I am your fan！ I’ve been watching MAMACOO and buying them recently to complement my watch collection. Good video
I bought the XVIII with white dial as it reminded me of the watches they produced in the 1960s. The XX is a clear upgrade. But I wish they’d produce the “calatrava” style watches they made in the 1960s. Clear ,no nonsense , classic and not too big.
Strapping on my Mark XII to watch this excellent take. A couple extra points in the old watch's favor: the font is superb. The new Mark XX is too close to Comic Sans. The bracelet is best in class, completely solid, in an era in which Rolex wasn't even giving you solid end-links yet. Entirely brushed case, except for a ring around the bezel and the hands: totally under-the-radar and functional, zero bling. The handset, as you mentioned: story goes an RAF pilot complained that he couldn't tell the hours from the minutes so IWC snipped off the hour hand for him, and it stuck.
I would love to see a Tribute to Mark X with small seconds, in a more modern ~38mm diameter, and an updated manual IWC Caliber 83 as a major bonus. The Tribute to 3705 is one of my favorite recent releases, along with the 2022 Royal Australian Air Force / RAAF Mark which looks fantastic. And Mark XV gets the most wrist time -- it's not just you. Thanks for another amazing video!
You got it right, the Mark XI is what a collector wants to see, but also lose the date window, which is a bit of an abomination on a field watch. But why suffer, Smith's, Hamilton and others make great field watches without screwing up the design ... although... Not exactly the mk XI design.
This is a fun and informative video, though a single shot of all featured models side by side would help those of us not familiar with the evolution follow your reasoning easier. But at the end of the day, I love the IWC Mark XX. One feature that surprises me is how well it wears on small wrists. At 40mm, with a 49mm lug to lug length, it should not wear so well on my 6.25 inch wrists, and yet the bracelet wraps around beautifully and even the strap looks good with zero overhang (the Spitfire too, by the way). I tried some IWC pilot watches back in the 2000s that didn't fit me even though they were smaller in both dimensions. Perhaps it's the angle of the lugs? I don't know, but there's some magic going on here. Many collectors will buy a watch because of its attractive design, solid movement and nice fit, even if the design evolution irritates historians of the brand. One could make the same argument about the Explorer 124270 not being true to its heritage with its 19mm to 14mm tapered bracelet and glossy dial, etc., but, like you, I think it's just about the perfect watch. Anyway, great job and keep at it!
Yes! Should have been more raffiner and more true to the old roots. And that awful date … Ruins everything. Give me a plain and «boring» dial! And thank you as always for your insight and knowledge!
I come here for the history and design points. You are among the best in my opinion. While some focus on dimensions and on paper specs, you cater to the enthusiast who lives the “brands”, the historical significance and the actual design language. Just saying thanks I guess, I appreciate you
I love your take on watches from a design perspective. You often articulate what I express as a feeling into design elements that jar,or don’t quite have harmony. Good work, always enjoy hearing your perspective, even when I don’t agree. ( I’ll never be a Tudor fan, but your takes help keep understand why people like it for instance) For me, IWC suffers a more fundamental problem. I dont know what IWC says about me as a brand. What it stands for. The pilot watch could be a Hamilton field watch for all intents and purposes, yet costs way more. Maybe I can’t get past International Watch Company sounds like an Ali Express brand. IWC make good looking watches, but will always be the bridesmaid, never the bride.
IWC, bring the RAF layout back again on the Mk line ! And, one can dream, like Breitling or Omega know how to do, make a faithful re-creation of the RAF issued IWC !
@@xpusostomos Just saying that those brands do know how to make "faithful" recreations of their back catalogue. E.G the Breitling AVI 765 or the Omega Speedmaster "Ed White"
“Thank you for taking the time to watch this… ramble, and I’ll see you in the next one” hahaha I’d take the older. It says “gentleman” and sits like a gentlemen’s watch
I really enjoyed this video and agree that this IWC Mark series is so attractive to me. I find myself constantly wanting to pick up a Mark XX (or a Mark XV) with the black dial and then thinking better of it because I have this excellent Khaki Field Auto with the black dial on my wrist that I love. It's weird how attractive these IWC Mark watches are versus similar watches. I think there's a collection of a number of almost indistinguishable differences that, when added up, make these IWC watches that almost perfect watch. I want one some day. Side note: Harrison Ford has been wearing his IWC Mark XV in the series Shrinking and it just looks so great and fits that part. I want one!
I personally own the blue Mark xx ever since it came out, I love it and its been my most worn watch ever since. But ever since I tried a Mark XII I been really thinking about switching, since you can feel it has much more personality somehow.
A bit more character to the numerals, slightly tighter proportions through the dial and case? There's just something other worldly about that Mark 11 design ;)
Never been so aligned with your thoughts…… all those things you point out have stopped me Buying a Mark **. The current iteration has as you pointed out, lost its way a bit. It’s no longer A tool watch but a shiny luxury field watch, it falls between both stools….. and yet I too keep Coming back to it. I’m really interested in the Patrouille Suisse version as a possible candidate But as it’s Limited and only seemingly available in Switzerland my chances of getting my hands on one are slim. Let’s bully IWC into a version with more lume, drop the troublesome date, and change the hands…… oh it could be such a An amazing watch.
I happened to wear my Mark XV when watching this. It's my favourite watch in my collection and the perfect pilot watch for me. I like that they keep making tiny adjustments to the formula so you can pick the exact one you like the most. For me I much prefer the chopped hour hand to the flieger hands, so I first got a Mark XVIII Tribute edition, and then a Mark XV which I found to have superior proportions. I also prefer the white background date window as it balances out the other white numerals. It is more of a luxury watch while the Mark XII has a stronger field look. The Mark XX brought the design closer to the XV with its elongated cardinal markers, albeit with flieger hands, so I have a feeling they'll next take inspiration from the XII. I would love to see a return of the serif numerals.
100%!! The modern Mark has lost its way badly - an abominabal luxury mongrel! The Mark was such a fine watch, but the move to Flieger hands was a terrible decision. It seems so odd that a storied brand like IWC would lean into a dark past with such abandon while simultaneously attempting to erase its greatest design and delete its more positive contribution in the War and post-War years. But given the basic way Richemont brands market themselves, it's no great surprise.
Extremely well said James. If I hadn't pinned the top comment this one would've been it. "An abominable luxury mongrel" Talk about an oxymoron if there ever was one 😆🥃
Good video. While not directly related but not unrelated either, I had the Mark XX and the Zenith Pilot at the same time and the Mark XX evoked almost 0 emotion while on the wrist. I get the MSRP difference between the Mark XX and the Zenith Pilot but on the wrist they’re completely different. Yes, the Mark XX is thin, but that’s about it. Anyway I sold it and can’t stop looking at the beautiful Zenith Pilot dial.
And to think Zenith is the only brand technically allowed to put "Pilot" on their dials, love that detail. Thanks for sharing this brother. Just imagine is a Mk 11 is a future design on their cards... would be interesting to see how you'd take to that 😉
In my humble opinion, the reasoning behind the changes are creating the whole pilots line in a uniform design language. The cut off hour hand, albeit not unattractive, is an historical relic that has it's place in tribute models, but the pilots collection is well advised at speaking in one voice, just like all Rolex sports models have the mercedes hands for example
As is so often the case with military/field/pilot watches the earlier designs seem timeless and very difficult to improve. I love the mark X1 design. A big problem for IWC has always been the cost, and while I don't deny their quality, many cheaper brands create a very good look and excellent quality for much less. I bought the blatant Smiths copy but for the money it scratches the itch very well. You reminded me yet again that we are in different times. Maybe time for me to look at IWC again and make some exploratory offers to ADs. I bought my Zenith 384 reissue with a 35% discount so who knows what's possible.
Wonderful video as I raised the same concern to IWC to remake the XV as I like the size and design. They ignored by concern so I started to look at the Laco Original and Sinn 556a. I will purchase one in the very near future.
They 100% need to bring back the square hour and and need to shrink the case size a bit. I know many will disagree but 40mm, to me, is too big for a field watch...basically, everything you did with your Mark XXII mock-up. PERFECTION!
I can't argue with your point that a Mark 11 or 12 should be somewhere in the range, based on the slightly smaller size, and the variety that the pencil and chopped hour hand contribute to another look, but for me personally, that doesn't impact how i feel about the XX one bit. I bought my mark xx after much consideration, and find it to be it's own thing - the 40mm size, the dial layout, the handset design and how it fits into the overall IWC design language for pilot watches - it's identity is perfect for what it is.
My favourite is the mark 15. The biggest reason why is the date placement. It’s perfect! If you look at the mark xx, the date falls in line with the 2 and 4 markers. It should be a touch more to the right. It’s not symmetrical. Also the size of the 15 is perfect at 38mm.
personally, couldn't care less. the longer quarter hour markers look great on the Mark xx dial, and the date position is no issue whatsoever in the real world. it's so small can't even see it half the time.
I am a long term fan of IWC (25+ years) and I am fortunate to have two of its older models: a 3705 from 1998 and an UTC 3251 of 2000. The last great model of the Mark series was the Mark XV, which I find better than the Mark XII as its (substantially enhanced) ETA movement is more fit for purpose than the delicate JLC movement of the Mark XII. Having said that, the Mark XX is easily the best iteration since the Mark XV, and I am very strongly considering getting the blue version myself. I don't really mind that it's lost some of the traditional characteristics of the Mark series (the hands, predominantly), as the package is extremely coherent, and has some very desirable upgrades like the movement. A couple of things I would change on it: the date being a tad bigger and shifted slightly to the right, to better maintain the continuity with the numerals; and lume at every marker rather than just the cardinal points. But this might not prevent me to get it nonetheless. It is that good.
That's a very interesting video, certainly wasn't aware of the design changes. Like you I prefer the historic version, but, do have a soft spot for the mark xx. Cannot find any details on it's antimagnetic qualities.
I've recently began my obsession as a watch collector. And i must say- out of all the luxury brands I've been researching, for me the MAMACOO's watches are the most intriguing.
I own a ceratanium IWC Petronas Pilot chrono, it’s amazing. IWC is doing some of the best work in the business with ceramics and other material. Their Kurt Klaus perpetual is probably the best take on a perpetual on the market. I don’t think they get nearly enough credit as they deserve. I recently took in a Mark XX on a trade, it’s insanely comfortable and versatile. I owned the Mojave 41 and Lake Tahoe for a short period too. Their Top Gun range is awesome.. either you like the design language or not.
I love the flieger design… I have many other Fliegers, but the thing that has stopped me getting a mark xx (aside from the price) is that it’s too shiny… too luxury when the design calls for a tool style watch. Probably why I’m drawn more to the Chronos and there’s also a mk XII in a local shop I can’t stop looking at
Interesting video. One of my favorite watches (and watch manufacturers, albeit with an uninspiring name) is the IWC UTC dual time in 39 mm. Unlike GMT bezel watches, it is a very sophisticated and understated way of capturing two time zones. I have also found IWC a great company to communicate with regarding servicing. So I've been trying to find a mate to this watch and have narrowed it down to the 39mm spitfire of a few years ago, and the new Mark XX - but it's now 40 mm and quite expensive.
I bought a watch from MAMACOO lightly used for my last milestone birthday. Don't wear it as much as it deserves, but not afraid to, either. It's stunning . Good taste, Sir.
The Mark XX rocks. Combines the best elements of the back catalogue of field watches and Feligers. I’m happy with some identity issues as long as I get the most user friendly, versatile, no nonsense field watch I can afford. The Mark XX ticks that box and more.
I've become interested in IWC pilot watches, but I'm only really considering the Mark XV. One, because I have small wrists, and even the Mark XX may be a bit too long (LTL). Two, because of the design divergence you've covered here. So unless they issue a new Mark that better aligns with their past (e.g. your XXII), I'll be searching for a (now vintage?) XV on bracelet. But alas, I doubt they will since the XX got so much positive press.
The one thing I really don't like in these pilot watches is the date. Is it pedantic to think that they shouldn't have a date because the original ones didn't have one ? I'm eyeing the B-Uhr from Laco precisely because it has a no date option while still being one of the brands that made original fliegers...
It's a great point to be made. I'm one of the few (who usually detests dates on watches) who kinda likes seeing date windows on these field / pilot pieces. Gives off more of a sense of "daily driver utility" y'know? But in the same way, the originals without dates, manual winding... poetry 🔥
I respect the Mark XX, but I won’t get it because of the date window. I do hope they come out without it. However, a Mark XI…I would love to find a good one.
You nailed this. IWC has an identity and watch crisis. They need to take a leaf out of Longines and fall back onto their heritage more and the pocketbook less. Mark XI with no date window would be my pick too.
Great video 👏 I've been drooling over the the Mark XV you discussed for a while now, especially on the bracelet 😍 I would also add that, for those after a jazzed up flieger, look at the silver dialed Mark XV and XVI Spitfires, there's nothing else like them on them on the market imo 🔥
Your render of mk xxii sans the date window (I am allergic to one) and my friend at IWC boutique will say "Which wind has blown you all the way here my dear friend?" Or I might hunt down a mk XI after I acquired a MN FXD, not the GMT one.
I have considered the IWC Mark 18, 20, and Spitfire. Those watches never grabbed my attention because of their price tag and size (lug-to-lug). Thus, my one perfect watch journey took me in a different direction. I was not familiar with the Mark 12, and it is an intriguing watch that deserves some of my time to explore its history and capability. As always though, there is only a finite number of watches I would like to own, and thus I need to be extra selective in my consideration. As many say though - never say never. Have a wonderful weekend. I will be celebrating the 249th birthday of the U.S. Marine Corps on Sunday, and then Veterans Day on Monday. Cheers! 🥃
The XVIII Heritage is tremendously underrated. It was the last beautiful one in the series. I don't give a damn about the moment. The easily repairable movement is the epitome of what a great tool watch should be. With the titanium, it weighs like nothing.
The current problems for me regarding the Mark XX are the (retail) price and lug to lug measurements. I tried the black variant and although I can get away with the size, I felt like it’s a meh watch at best. If you’re talking about pilot watches, I immediately turn to Hanhart with their 417 ES chronographs. Exceptional pieces, great measurements, one of the best value for money in terms of what you get as a package and of course it’s history that is also linked to Steve McQueen. The 417 ES will definitely be my preference…until IWC decides to reissue the MARK XI with the old fully named logo.
Maybe unpopular opinion (pls show mercy). Laco and Tudor are currently what IWC and Rolex timepieces used to represent. Sadly with each new update IWC and Rolex are moving away from their roots and what made them the brand of choice for Explorers, pilots, climbers, speleologist, divers, scientists, engineers, adventurers and have slowly but convincingly transitioned their lineups, of what used to be simplistic sturdy and classy tool watches, into bling-bling status show off jewellery that appeal to bank executives, brockers and oil tycoons. Thankfully some models still retain that old pedigree (eg: Explorer 1&2, Big Pilot 43/Heritage) but god knows for how long. Awesome video. Love the Mark 12 and 15 and would be my choice.
Excellently said, nothing wrong with what you're saying here (and very true about how many brands have deviated so far from where they began - aiming towards being luxurious, prestigious etc etc)🥃
I have and enjoy both Mark XX and Spitfire (and I even have the original Big Pilot IW-5002 from 2002), but that identity issue really does bug me... The name "Mark" clearly points to an RAF heritage, but so many of the design cues are taken from the German fliegers, not the least of which is that stupid Junkers aircraft on the caseback. An RAF watch with a German freighter engraved on the back? What is this, a Harvey Dent "2 face" edition?
Why not just have both British and German model lines? I don't understand the logic of fusing two pilot watches that belonged to the OPPOSING SIDES. The pilots who wore these watches to combat were trying to shoot each other down.
And while I'm griping about the Mark series, for God's sake when will IWC please lume every index instead of just the 4 cardinal indices? I get it, the original Mark XI had lume at 4 points only by request of the RAF. But the whole "Mark" nomenclature means each new entry is an improvement upon the previous model, you know? How much longer will IWC insist on 4-point lume as if we were still in 1940s? Give us a fully lumed dial already!
This is going to be a pinned comment very shortly, summed up my thoughts entirely (Junkers on the caseback included) 😉🥃
The limited lume was my reason for not buying.
I personally love that only the cardinal markers and triangle are lumed. It looks very slick in the dark, almost like an aircraft instrument. I think fully luming the dial would also ruin the ultra fine printing, as the lumed markers are slightly raised, contrasting them to the printed markers. Finally, IWC is not a homage brand - I respect them for creating their own unique designs, although they may clash with history, it does concur with the history of the brand supplying both sides.
@revenanke3132 No, sir. IWC's other pilot watches (like Big Pilot 43) have lume on all 12 indices. They CAN do it with absolutely no negative effect on print quality. They just don't because they want to stick to RAF requirements from the 1940s.
Fascinating comment, of course they did supply both sides during the late unpleasantness......
I’ve nothing particularly insightful to add, except that I’d like to sincerely express how great I think your channel is. I quite literally love it!
Kindness makes the world a better place.
This is a true statement and I venture something a lot of the viewers would say but don’t. The quality of the communication and insight on this channel is excellent and individual. 🇿🇦
Truly appreciate it Martyn, thank you sir 🥃
Couldn't agree more !
You nailed it…!
You're one of the best watch channels on RUclips, man. Great video.
Thank you so, so much man. It means a lot knowing that these videos resonate somewhere in the endless pit of watch related content 😉🥃
I completely agree with the aesthetic arguments in this video and it's nice to hear them from someone with such a deeply considered, and obviously sincere, perspective. It's astonishing they have not done a heritage piece recently.
Ah, I appreciate it Bruce, thank you. They could make such a killing in this area by reigniting some of their older designs (not just in the pilot family) Alas, I just don't get it. Have a great weekend sir and thanks again! 🥃
As always the most thoughtful , well researched & eloquent watch channel around , keep AMZWATCH coming !
The one reservation I've always had about the current lineup of IWC's "Mark" Pilot watches is their shift in identity.
Where they once pulled inspiration from the Iconic Mark 11, they now appear like miniaturised Flieger pieces instead...
What changed? Brand recognition? Streamlining? Would you choose an updated Mk.11 Design if they made it? 🥃
I actually would. I have a soft spot for the vintage styles of years gone by. The Mark 11 design looks incredible! It’s reminiscent somewhat of Rolex’s 1016.
I think there was a flieger craze about 10 or 15 years ago... Rightly so because that's an iconic design, and we had Laco,Stowa etc ascendant , so the field watch heritage got forgotten.
Which one do you prefer? The mark series or the big pilot series?
I wouldn't - I have the Mark XX but I am also German, so there is that. Or maybe they just let go of the past and focus on what sells instead of pleasing WW2 historians? Money rules!
@@koolpep fair enough, you like what you like. I do enjoy the historical aspect. I have some full size 55mm Laco replicas and enjoy that it has that link to history.
It’s an IWC wide problem. Some of their pieces are so ridiculously meh in this competitive market that it simply doesn’t warrant a purchase.
It's a real shame too with pieces like the Ocean 2000, 3705 and plenty of others in their back catalogue 🥃
Not just meh, but meh for BIG $$$$!
Such a terrific commentary (as usual). Your aesthetic meditations stand alone.
I enjoyed the historical design perspective of the Mark series, just when I thought everything had already been said about it in reviews, this refreshing piece comes along. Looking forward to the next one!
Agreed ! Always pleasant to watch your videos .
I find myself wanting a collection of Mark pilots watches. It stared with the older versions and on to the ‘EIGHTEEN’ with the Stainless Steel bracelet and all the hidden figures and that dial is so simple it’s what makes it stand out but yet not in your face. Thank you for sharing your passion for IWC with us as it was an enjoyable video. Keep this kind of content coming out more often.
Simply wonderful.
I so appreciate it David, always feels fantastic knowing that something that I share resonates somewhere. Have a super weekend sir and thank you 🥃
I own Mark XVI, and absolutely love it. I think it’s the most balanced version of Mark series. Got many compliments on how clean and beautiful it is.
I voted with my dollars and bought a Mark XX after trying it on -- for me, wearing is believing with this one, especially with the bracelet.
If I had the option of the same watch but with the RAF-style hands and dial, I would have bought it. But I wouldn't give up all the refinements of the Mark XX for the dial and hands. I like these just fine.
Great point about the RAF hands, just that adjustment alone would make a huge difference! 🥃
Wears awesome and is a great value on the secondary market. I got mine on a bracelet brand new at 5k, and I don't think there is a better watch at that price point.
@@manofthehour_ Couldn't agree more - bought mine for a similar price and love it.
@@ID-Guy But weren't the flinger style hands introduced in 2006 with the Mark XVI - and since then are used....I prefer the flinger style hands personally. And if customers would not agree they would change them back....
Absolutely IWC and the mark XX will be mine at some point. Bracelet is fabulous and the black dial feels right. Your videos are so fantastic.
Completely agree with you. IWC has lost its soul, its direction, and is producing a watch that is neither RAF nor German Luftwaffe.
It's now an RAFlieger 🔥 The horror...the horror...
IHere is a thought - isn't that a good thing? Not to be stuck in WW2? Moving on? They never claimed it's a historical true watch....in its current iteration.
The Royal Australian Air Force pilots wore IWC Mark 11 navigator’s watches. In 2020, RAAF KC-30A pilot Nic Barnes collaborated with IWC to create the IWC Mark II Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition RAAF which recalls that early association while feature updates such a 41mm matte black zirconium ceramic case, a date indicator at 3 o’clock and a sunburst blue dial.
I’ve owned my Mark XX now for about 4 months and I got to say, I didn’t think about the watch’s design like this until I got your perspective! I think this is a really good insight, and while I don’t think it necessarily harms the line’s desirability and sales, I would love to see more of a return to form for it. Thanks for the good video!
Agree, IWC Pilot should be Mark 11. IMHO, the best design of the IWC pilots
What a dream it would be if they'd left that through-line design over the decades 🥃
Well said. I thought I was the only one who felt very confused when I saw the flieger hands and the dots on 12 in the Spitfire.
Hit the nail on the head with this. I've just bought the Smiths Navigator to scratch this itch.
The Tribute to Mark 11 was great, really missed out on that one.
Still find it strange to wear Axis watches, specially around liberation day. Some great designs but feels off and the Germans are very friendly (nowadays).
Lets hope for your design.
Enjoy the weekend.
IWC have gone down that RAFlieger route with these machines, right? ;) And spot-on about the tribute piece. Have a super weekend yourself Theo 🥃
Thanks for the video. Really enjoyed it, still enjoying my Mark XX as part of my collection. It's lost its "military" background a long time ago. Probably a good thing. History buffs can buy vintage or any other homage or current military models. Choice is the salt of the earth.
I love watching your videos and MAMACOO to keep myself updated on the world of watches
I must admit that the brand that putted me into watches, by the ninetees when I was about sixteen, was (don’t ask me why) Bell&Ross. But the one that became at that time “a grail” was IWC. Stunning era…!
Fabolous video… like always…! ❤️
Can't wait to watch this! Mark XV will be mine some day my man! Also a Mazda MX-5 NC... I think I'm having a midlife crisis
Mark 15 is the one for you brother… every time I look at it, I think “yep, can’t really top this” Bonus points if you can find the OG bracelet 😉 I’d recommend a trip over the Belgium, Amsterdam etc to find a pristine example for a cracking price 🔥
Nice choice. I recently swapped my Mark XVI for a Mark XV as its slightly more compact dimensions I find even more appealing. Marks are my wrist companions for nearly 20 years. Great watches.
IWC Mark XII 36mm with the original-style bracelet and 10 ATM would be out of this world! I would buy two.
You'd buy two, really. Such a person must already have some great field watches in your collection, what's your current favourite?
Time factors baby speedbird is a great shout that ticks these boxes!
@@dinoredbush yes, I have a Smith's field PRS 29, I don't feel any desire for an IWC.
Great to see a resurgent interest in IWC. I particularly love the Big Pilot 43 - a design classic.
I feel that IWC had a style that was lost in the past 10 years. I love their Ingenieur line especially the AMG dual vertical chronograph. Thank bro for the great video.
I've been having the exact same thoughts over the last few weeks. Hit the nail on the head.
I tried on an IWC standard pilot in black on black (top gun logo on case back, not on dial), and loved it. The proportions are great.
Great video! Would love myself a Mark XII. It seems you said that both the Mark XV and XII use ETA movements, but actually the XII uses the JLC 889/2, which I find really cool! Apologies if I’m just repeating something you mentioned.
Thanks for your work, cheers!
My LORD... if the mark xxii was real, it would be the ultimate watch.. and 37mm? Jesus you honestly read my mind
..superb
..bravo
Great rant have the same feeling about the IWC mark watches. Just bought a Hamilton KFA titanium 36mm limited edition because this gives me the mk11 vibes.
Yes, yes, yes... Your Mark XXII design is exactly the way the Mark should be. Every word you said in this video matches my own thoughts on this line of watches. You chose the right handset, removed the flieger dots around the 12 o'clock triangle, fixed the date placement. I'd love to see the date gone altogether but I'd buy the version you designed.
Watches are so delicate and intricately designed, so I have intense respect and admiration for AMZWATCH watch makers
A very interesting and thought provoking horological subject. Despite their great name, I honestly can’t remember the last time I saw an IWC in the wild, nor have I seen an IWC model in recent memory that stirs the loins.
Hmm, thanks for pointing out this mess. I am a big aviation enthusiast and historical accuracy is not the last aspect of my interest, too. Now I understood, what was so confusing for me in IWC watches all this time (while nothing was confusing in my Laco typ B flieger - it looks spot on, except it's 42mm size instead of 55mm).
Actually - I think the XX is practically perfect. It's beautifully simiple to read and has incredble strap versatility (more than any other watch I've ever seen).
exactly. Although I, as watchgeek, understand what ID Guy is talking about, 99.99% people dont care about this RAF/Luftwaffe mumbo-jumbo. (note: I own the XX and for me its perfect GADA watch)
I am obsessed with the white dial on a bracelet.
Hello thanks for content. The finishing on the Mark XX is next level. I think it’s a pretty good deal for what you get. You should really consider getting it. I have a black Mark XX and am really happy with it.
Even after my critique, I'm still besotted with the Blue dial Mark XX 😉🥃
Outstanding video.I have to go with the MAMACOO, especially with that green dial as my favorite
Definitely the most interesting & informative channel in RUclips，and I am your fan！ I’ve been watching MAMACOO and buying them recently to complement my watch collection. Good video
I bought the XVIII with white dial as it reminded me of the watches they produced in the 1960s. The XX is a clear upgrade. But I wish they’d produce the “calatrava” style watches they made in the 1960s. Clear ,no nonsense , classic and not too big.
Man they made some beautiful dress pieces back when... clean, uncluttered AND the ultimate in logo calligraphy on a dial 🔥 Well said!
Strapping on my Mark XII to watch this excellent take. A couple extra points in the old watch's favor: the font is superb. The new Mark XX is too close to Comic Sans. The bracelet is best in class, completely solid, in an era in which Rolex wasn't even giving you solid end-links yet. Entirely brushed case, except for a ring around the bezel and the hands: totally under-the-radar and functional, zero bling. The handset, as you mentioned: story goes an RAF pilot complained that he couldn't tell the hours from the minutes so IWC snipped off the hour hand for him, and it stuck.
I would love to see a Tribute to Mark X with small seconds, in a more modern ~38mm diameter, and an updated manual IWC Caliber 83 as a major bonus. The Tribute to 3705 is one of my favorite recent releases, along with the 2022 Royal Australian Air Force / RAAF Mark which looks fantastic. And Mark XV gets the most wrist time -- it's not just you. Thanks for another amazing video!
You got it right, the Mark XI is what a collector wants to see, but also lose the date window, which is a bit of an abomination on a field watch. But why suffer, Smith's, Hamilton and others make great field watches without screwing up the design ... although... Not exactly the mk XI design.
It always amazes me how much beauty and precision are added to the parts of AMZWATCH's watch 99% of people will never see.
This is a fun and informative video, though a single shot of all featured models side by side would help those of us not familiar with the evolution follow your reasoning easier.
But at the end of the day, I love the IWC Mark XX. One feature that surprises me is how well it wears on small wrists. At 40mm, with a 49mm lug to lug length, it should not wear so well on my 6.25 inch wrists, and yet the bracelet wraps around beautifully and even the strap looks good with zero overhang (the Spitfire too, by the way). I tried some IWC pilot watches back in the 2000s that didn't fit me even though they were smaller in both dimensions. Perhaps it's the angle of the lugs? I don't know, but there's some magic going on here.
Many collectors will buy a watch because of its attractive design, solid movement and nice fit, even if the design evolution irritates historians of the brand. One could make the same argument about the Explorer 124270 not being true to its heritage with its 19mm to 14mm tapered bracelet and glossy dial, etc., but, like you, I think it's just about the perfect watch. Anyway, great job and keep at it!
Yes! Should have been more raffiner and more true to the old roots. And that awful date … Ruins everything. Give me a plain and «boring» dial! And thank you as always for your insight and knowledge!
At 9:00, is the mark 18 on the right altered to have a white date wheel?
I come here for the history and design points. You are among the best in my opinion. While some focus on dimensions and on paper specs, you cater to the enthusiast who lives the “brands”, the historical significance and the actual design language. Just saying thanks I guess, I appreciate you
I love your take on watches from a design perspective. You often articulate what I express as a feeling into design elements that jar,or don’t quite have harmony. Good work, always enjoy hearing your perspective, even when I don’t agree. ( I’ll never be a Tudor fan, but your takes help keep understand why people like it for instance) For me, IWC suffers a more fundamental problem. I dont know what IWC says about me as a brand. What it stands for. The pilot watch could be a Hamilton field watch for all intents and purposes, yet costs way more. Maybe I can’t get past International Watch Company sounds like an Ali Express brand. IWC make good looking watches, but will always be the bridesmaid, never the bride.
IWC, bring the RAF layout back again on the Mk line ! And, one can dream, like Breitling or Omega know how to do, make a faithful re-creation of the RAF issued IWC !
I'm confused, are you saying omega and Breitling make a copy of the IWC? I've never heard of that.
@@xpusostomos Just saying that those brands do know how to make "faithful" recreations of their back catalogue. E.G the Breitling AVI 765 or the Omega Speedmaster "Ed White"
@@MSAINT-bn4vj but.. this isn't their back catalog is it?
“Thank you for taking the time to watch this… ramble, and I’ll see you in the next one” hahaha
I’d take the older. It says “gentleman” and sits like a gentlemen’s watch
I really enjoyed this video and agree that this IWC Mark series is so attractive to me. I find myself constantly wanting to pick up a Mark XX (or a Mark XV) with the black dial and then thinking better of it because I have this excellent Khaki Field Auto with the black dial on my wrist that I love.
It's weird how attractive these IWC Mark watches are versus similar watches. I think there's a collection of a number of almost indistinguishable differences that, when added up, make these IWC watches that almost perfect watch. I want one some day.
Side note: Harrison Ford has been wearing his IWC Mark XV in the series Shrinking and it just looks so great and fits that part. I want one!
I personally own the blue Mark xx ever since it came out, I love it and its been my most worn watch ever since.
But ever since I tried a Mark XII I been really thinking about switching, since you can feel it has much more personality somehow.
A bit more character to the numerals, slightly tighter proportions through the dial and case? There's just something other worldly about that Mark 11 design ;)
@ Exactly, they just have that timeless design feel to them.
Thanks as always for the great content. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Their Fliger slash RAF hybrid design is what held me back from pulling the trigger on a pre-owned Spitfire…I’ve decided I wanted a true RAF design
Never been so aligned with your thoughts…… all those things you point out have stopped me
Buying a Mark **. The current iteration has as you pointed out, lost its way a bit. It’s no longer
A tool watch but a shiny luxury field watch, it falls between both stools….. and yet I too keep
Coming back to it. I’m really interested in the Patrouille Suisse version as a possible candidate
But as it’s Limited and only seemingly available in Switzerland my chances of getting my hands on one are slim.
Let’s bully IWC into a version with more lume, drop the troublesome date, and change the hands…… oh it could be such a
An amazing watch.
I happened to wear my Mark XV when watching this. It's my favourite watch in my collection and the perfect pilot watch for me. I like that they keep making tiny adjustments to the formula so you can pick the exact one you like the most. For me I much prefer the chopped hour hand to the flieger hands, so I first got a Mark XVIII Tribute edition, and then a Mark XV which I found to have superior proportions. I also prefer the white background date window as it balances out the other white numerals. It is more of a luxury watch while the Mark XII has a stronger field look. The Mark XX brought the design closer to the XV with its elongated cardinal markers, albeit with flieger hands, so I have a feeling they'll next take inspiration from the XII. I would love to see a return of the serif numerals.
100%!! The modern Mark has lost its way badly - an abominabal luxury mongrel! The Mark was such a fine watch, but the move to Flieger hands was a terrible decision. It seems so odd that a storied brand like IWC would lean into a dark past with such abandon while simultaneously attempting to erase its greatest design and delete its more positive contribution in the War and post-War years. But given the basic way Richemont brands market themselves, it's no great surprise.
Extremely well said James. If I hadn't pinned the top comment this one would've been it. "An abominable luxury mongrel" Talk about an oxymoron if there ever was one 😆🥃
Well... Neither one was "their design", they were the designs of their respective war ministries.
Good video. While not directly related but not unrelated either, I had the Mark XX and the Zenith Pilot at the same time and the Mark XX evoked almost 0 emotion while on the wrist. I get the MSRP difference between the Mark XX and the Zenith Pilot but on the wrist they’re completely different. Yes, the Mark XX is thin, but that’s about it. Anyway I sold it and can’t stop looking at the beautiful Zenith Pilot dial.
And to think Zenith is the only brand technically allowed to put "Pilot" on their dials, love that detail. Thanks for sharing this brother. Just imagine is a Mk 11 is a future design on their cards... would be interesting to see how you'd take to that 😉
In my humble opinion, the reasoning behind the changes are creating the whole pilots line in a uniform design language. The cut off hour hand, albeit not unattractive, is an historical relic that has it's place in tribute models, but the pilots collection is well advised at speaking in one voice, just like all Rolex sports models have the mercedes hands for example
Well said, it does boil down to recognisability and streamlining the collections "image" when it's seen as a whole 🥃
I'm genuinely impressed with how close AMZWATCH were able to replicate every aspect of this very very goofy looking classic watch.
As is so often the case with military/field/pilot watches the earlier designs seem timeless and very difficult to improve. I love the mark X1 design. A big problem for IWC has always been the cost, and while I don't deny their quality, many cheaper brands create a very good look and excellent quality for much less. I bought the blatant Smiths copy but for the money it scratches the itch very well. You reminded me yet again that we are in different times. Maybe time for me to look at IWC again and make some exploratory offers to ADs. I bought my Zenith 384 reissue with a 35% discount so who knows what's possible.
Well said. I own a Mark XV, that is how IWC Mark series watch should look like.
Wonderful video as I raised the same concern to IWC to remake the XV as I like the size and design. They ignored by concern so I started to look at the Laco Original and Sinn 556a. I will purchase one in the very near future.
Great work as allways
My pleasure to always share these wacky ideas 😉🥃
My favorite watch channel without a doubt.I’m happy to spend my money on MAMACOO watches. I’ve never been let down by their products
They 100% need to bring back the square hour and and need to shrink the case size a bit. I know many will disagree but 40mm, to me, is too big for a field watch...basically, everything you did with your Mark XXII mock-up. PERFECTION!
I can't argue with your point that a Mark 11 or 12 should be somewhere in the range, based on the slightly smaller size, and the variety that the pencil and chopped hour hand contribute to another look, but for me personally, that doesn't impact how i feel about the XX one bit. I bought my mark xx after much consideration, and find it to be it's own thing - the 40mm size, the dial layout, the handset design and how it fits into the overall IWC design language for pilot watches - it's identity is perfect for what it is.
My favourite is the mark 15. The biggest reason why is the date placement. It’s perfect! If you look at the mark xx, the date falls in line with the 2 and 4 markers. It should be a touch more to the right. It’s not symmetrical. Also the size of the 15 is perfect at 38mm.
personally, couldn't care less. the longer quarter hour markers look great on the Mark xx dial, and the date position is no issue whatsoever in the real world. it's so small can't even see it half the time.
I am a long term fan of IWC (25+ years) and I am fortunate to have two of its older models: a 3705 from 1998 and an UTC 3251 of 2000. The last great model of the Mark series was the Mark XV, which I find better than the Mark XII as its (substantially enhanced) ETA movement is more fit for purpose than the delicate JLC movement of the Mark XII. Having said that, the Mark XX is easily the best iteration since the Mark XV, and I am very strongly considering getting the blue version myself. I don't really mind that it's lost some of the traditional characteristics of the Mark series (the hands, predominantly), as the package is extremely coherent, and has some very desirable upgrades like the movement. A couple of things I would change on it: the date being a tad bigger and shifted slightly to the right, to better maintain the continuity with the numerals; and lume at every marker rather than just the cardinal points. But this might not prevent me to get it nonetheless. It is that good.
I'm genuinely impressed with how close MAMACOO were able to replicate every aspect of this very very goofy looking classic watch.
That's a very interesting video, certainly wasn't aware of the design changes.
Like you I prefer the historic version, but, do have a soft spot for the mark xx. Cannot find any details on it's antimagnetic qualities.
I'm also unsure if they use any kind of cage around the movement in the XX (more likely that they're using silicon hairsprings and all the rest) ;)
I've recently began my obsession as a watch collector. And i must say- out of all the luxury brands I've been researching, for me the MAMACOO's watches are the most intriguing.
I own a ceratanium IWC Petronas Pilot chrono, it’s amazing. IWC is doing some of the best work in the business with ceramics and other material. Their Kurt Klaus perpetual is probably the best take on a perpetual on the market. I don’t think they get nearly enough credit as they deserve. I recently took in a Mark XX on a trade, it’s insanely comfortable and versatile. I owned the Mojave 41 and Lake Tahoe for a short period too. Their Top Gun range is awesome.. either you like the design language or not.
MAMACOO！Every time you exhibit one of these watches I become super tempted to get one.
I love the flieger design… I have many other Fliegers, but the thing that has stopped me getting a mark xx (aside from the price) is that it’s too shiny… too luxury when the design calls for a tool style watch. Probably why I’m drawn more to the Chronos and there’s also a mk XII in a local shop I can’t stop looking at
Interesting video. One of my favorite watches (and watch manufacturers, albeit with an uninspiring name) is the IWC UTC dual time in 39 mm. Unlike GMT bezel watches, it is a very sophisticated and understated way of capturing two time zones. I have also found IWC a great company to communicate with regarding servicing.
So I've been trying to find a mate to this watch and have narrowed it down to the 39mm spitfire of a few years ago, and the new Mark XX - but it's now 40 mm and quite expensive.
I bought a watch from MAMACOO lightly used for my last milestone birthday. Don't wear it as much as it deserves, but not afraid to, either. It's stunning . Good taste, Sir.
The Mark XX rocks. Combines the best elements of the back catalogue of field watches and Feligers. I’m happy with some identity issues as long as I get the most user friendly, versatile, no nonsense field watch I can afford. The Mark XX ticks that box and more.
I like the aesthetics of the Mark XX
The hands, both black and blue dials.
I've become interested in IWC pilot watches, but I'm only really considering the Mark XV. One, because I have small wrists, and even the Mark XX may be a bit too long (LTL). Two, because of the design divergence you've covered here. So unless they issue a new Mark that better aligns with their past (e.g. your XXII), I'll be searching for a (now vintage?) XV on bracelet. But alas, I doubt they will since the XX got so much positive press.
The one thing I really don't like in these pilot watches is the date. Is it pedantic to think that they shouldn't have a date because the original ones didn't have one ? I'm eyeing the B-Uhr from Laco precisely because it has a no date option while still being one of the brands that made original fliegers...
It's a great point to be made. I'm one of the few (who usually detests dates on watches) who kinda likes seeing date windows on these field / pilot pieces. Gives off more of a sense of "daily driver utility" y'know? But in the same way, the originals without dates, manual winding... poetry 🔥
I respect the Mark XX, but I won’t get it because of the date window. I do hope they come out without it. However, a Mark XI…I would love to find a good one.
Date windows... they really can make or break a look to a piece. We can only live in hope that they reignite that Mark XI flame 🔥
Nicely done again. Although I have em.... I don't wear them.
I'd love a Mark XX with no date window. I used to have a Mark XV and thought I preferred those hands to the sword hands, but I've changed my mind.
It would be amazing to see the MK XI produced again.
Dear Mr IDGuy, I have to be careful listening to you. Could cost me money. Thankfully not this time. Holding strong. 💪🏼 ❤
You nailed this. IWC has an identity and watch crisis. They need to take a leaf out of Longines and fall back onto their heritage more and the pocketbook less. Mark XI with no date window would be my pick too.
Great video 👏 I've been drooling over the the Mark XV you discussed for a while now, especially on the bracelet 😍 I would also add that, for those after a jazzed up flieger, look at the silver dialed Mark XV and XVI Spitfires, there's nothing else like them on them on the market imo 🔥
God!!! MAMACOO Who would have thought those gorgeous watches go for that low!!!
I have never been disappointed since I became a customer of MAMACOO. Their watches are of exceptional quality.
Love MAMACOO watch， Such a great looking watch to match with the precisionist movement.
Your render of mk xxii sans the date window (I am allergic to one) and my friend at IWC boutique will say "Which wind has blown you all the way here my dear friend?"
Or I might hunt down a mk XI after I acquired a MN FXD, not the GMT one.
Quality watches, and good value, if you look on the secondhand market!
Nailed it 😉🥃
I have considered the IWC Mark 18, 20, and Spitfire. Those watches never grabbed my attention because of their price tag and size (lug-to-lug). Thus, my one perfect watch journey took me in a different direction. I was not familiar with the Mark 12, and it is an intriguing watch that deserves some of my time to explore its history and capability. As always though, there is only a finite number of watches I would like to own, and thus I need to be extra selective in my consideration. As many say though - never say never. Have a wonderful weekend. I will be celebrating the 249th birthday of the U.S. Marine Corps on Sunday, and then Veterans Day on Monday. Cheers! 🥃
The XVIII Heritage is tremendously underrated. It was the last beautiful one in the series. I don't give a damn about the moment. The easily repairable movement is the epitome of what a great tool watch should be. With the titanium, it weighs like nothing.
The current problems for me regarding the Mark XX are the (retail) price and lug to lug measurements. I tried the black variant and although I can get away with the size, I felt like it’s a meh watch at best. If you’re talking about pilot watches, I immediately turn to Hanhart with their 417 ES chronographs. Exceptional pieces, great measurements, one of the best value for money in terms of what you get as a package and of course it’s history that is also linked to Steve McQueen. The 417 ES will definitely be my preference…until IWC decides to reissue the MARK XI with the old fully named logo.
Maybe unpopular opinion (pls show mercy).
Laco and Tudor are currently what IWC and Rolex timepieces used to represent.
Sadly with each new update IWC and Rolex are moving away from their roots and what made them the brand of choice for Explorers, pilots, climbers, speleologist, divers, scientists, engineers, adventurers and have slowly but convincingly transitioned their lineups, of what used to be simplistic sturdy and classy tool watches, into bling-bling status show off jewellery that appeal to bank executives, brockers and oil tycoons.
Thankfully some models still retain that old pedigree (eg: Explorer 1&2, Big Pilot 43/Heritage) but god knows for how long.
Awesome video. Love the Mark 12 and 15 and would be my choice.
Excellently said, nothing wrong with what you're saying here (and very true about how many brands have deviated so far from where they began - aiming towards being luxurious, prestigious etc etc)🥃