When I saw this I kept remembering the video where they guy opened a car battery to see what was inside and found a unicorn. I did this for an 18v weed whacker battery that's about 2 years old. I used it for edging and cleaning up after mowing until about 4 months ago. Battery time got shorter and shorter until i couldn't even finish the edging. Did the plug in, plug out about 10 times and let it charge overnight. This morning i did all the edging and the clean up and I still have battery to spare. It's not even straining yet. I don't know how long it will last but this actually did work. Thank you for posting.
Electrical systems (grids) are intended to be "constant voltage" systems. Light bulbs undergo filament evaporation as tungsten is white hot and diffuses to the glass shell over time. The reduced filament diameter results in higher current densities at the minimal diameter points. Current density is the cause of atomic vibration as electron flow density provides more vibration/kinetic transaction to the tungsten atoms, which are bound on a crystalline lattice. When the switch turns on the filament is also at room temperature. Resistance and temperature are linear in tungsten and quite low at room temp( typically a couple of ohms). At operating temp a 60W bulb will be a couple hundred ohms. The thinned part of the filament will undergo massive power dissipation at instant of turn on and proceed to vapourize. When the contact fails a short duration plasma arc occurs and generates the classic blue spectra ( 8000K) colour temperature and the filament opens and we go dark. This is why it always occurs on turn on as the electrical grid does not really control power, but attempts to maintain a constant voltage at all times. The load determines the current draw and final operational power. If you mechanically disturb a bulb at end of life cycle the filament commonly breaks as it has evaporated to a thin state and is fragile and you end up lying under the car in the dark as you tried to move your lamp. Voltages vary with utilities around N.A. and the world (Japan is 100VAC! and Brazil is 127VAC). Most things are specced to run between 110-125VAC with little issue. Light bulb power is rated at a specific value and varies depending where plugged in. The Boston firestation with the 100 year bulb has the bulb in a very yellow state and never turned off. The vapourization is super low so the filament really lasts (exponential mean time between failure..) and the never turn it on and subject it to cold filament transient current densitiy- so it lasts- bit of a technical scam!
Do you find that after doing this trick the battery's hold charge or dissipate rapidly after achieving full charge ? Someone in comment section stated batteries died out very next day, not in this comment section, but other like video using same trick.
Light bulbs burn out at start up because the RESISTANCE is lowest when they are coolest, which allows too much current to flow which melts the filament. Interestingly, when the bulb is hot the resistance rises about 15 x more... do the math: v = i R, so for a 120v bulb where I is not known you "should" be able to solve by measuring R on a cold 40w bulb as about 26 ohms, so for I =V/R ... ie one might think that for a filament I =120/26 = ~ 4amps BUT : ; the bulb is rated at 40watts so as a check you can use the W=VI equation => so I = W/V = 40w/120v = 0.33 amps (this makes sense where 4a does not; the solution is because the filament heats up and while the cold R is ~26 ohm the hot R is much higher, the hot R comes out to R (HOT) = V/I = 120v/ 0.33 ohm = R(HOT) = 363 ohm (yeah about 363/26 = 14x more ! (we checked others and 15x more R hot than R cold is common place, which explains the first cold R filament burnouts and why electronics go haywire when parts overheat. Summary: ;when things get hot the Resistance goes way up. Rule of thumb always do worst case analysis Ie HOT and Coldest conditions "Under Max Load/Working " Conditions to make sure your circuit will perform reliably (fortunately only heaters and bulb filaments and other hot devices are the usual problems).
The volt/ohm/capacitance/amp meter he referred to is indeed a good one, via amazon and others, its the only one i've ever had that does the capacitance check which is good to have for ac/ ceiling fans/ motors, etc. The stand in the back is very handy to make it stand up at a slant so you can read it easier (also rfunctions as a kind of a hanger so i could hang it im promptu off a fence rail. )
Best one yet. I was following instruction as I was watching this video. With a surprise it actually worked and I'm currently using the battery. Wow!! You just saved me from buying new batteries. Thanks.
Sulfides build up on the Plates over time impeding the Ion flow and Pulsing the charger pulses the plates and blasts the Sulfides (whiskers) off and then the ions can flow and the battery will charge, works on most batteries especially Lead Acid Batteries.
I have "boiled" lead acid batteries out by dumping the old acid (it is weak and blackened, dirty, but will still burn, so use protection) then I funnel in baking soda in each cell and gently add white distilled vinegar. I do that 2-3 times then rinse with distilled water and put new acid in the cells. I then slow charge it to full charge. My service truck has a 60 month battery now beginning year 8. I keep it clean and maintained. Can't make them last forever but you can inexpensively extend the life considerably. I don't add either acid or distilled water without testing the acid and I keep my terminals clean with electrical silicone on them.
I wonder if this could be used as a maintenance procedure. I have a Hitachi drill, my best drill. Fits in my hand perfect, lighter in weight and is well used. For a 12 volt drill, its tough. This method may get me more from my battery packs, as they are $50 at Home Depot.
I only found this to work if the metal is visible and you know which is + and -. I did this to my Ryobi batteries and used the Boost on them and "stroked" the + side. worked Great.
I have the exact same Ryobi drill. I went and Don just what you did, and after several times, only the red light came on, saying fast charge. But in about 10 minutes, it went green, showing that the battery was charged. But it was not. The drill did not do anything. Do you have any tips?
Regarding the lightbulb... It's not a case of "fluctuating power" A lightbulb burns out when you hit the switch is because the filament is cold. A cold filament has a lower resistance than when the filament is hot. A lower resistance means higher current so for example: A cold 60 Watt bulb becomes a 200 watt bulb for a split second. If the bulb is near the end of it's life that high current surge is enough to blow the bulb on start-up The power or line voltage may only fluctuate by a few microvolts when you turn on the light and is certainly not noticeable unless you're living in a "doublewide" trailer with an insufficient and antiquated fuse panel that was designed to run a few light bulbs as everything else was expected to run on gas.
so after only like ten minutes of charge, i put the old battery that i shocked with a single other 18v nicad in my drill and it was as powerful feeling as my new lithium battery i purchased today. shocked one 18v nic with only one other 18v nic and i now have a perfectly working pair of batteries
Hey doublewide I tried this on some old ryobi batteries that ppl recycled but it doesn't seem to last long. I think I need to replace bad cells. How is it holding up for you?
I have a great success with Ryobi 18 v batteries. Maybe 7 out of 10 which is a pretty good recovery rate . I have since gone to Craftsman 19.2v. And have not fixed any of them or Dewalt 18 v. Do you or anyone else know the hack for either of those brands?
I tried this procedure, Ridgid 18v ni-cad. They took the charge, the very next day they were completely DEAD. I went through this 4 times and it failed to hold a charge, then quit
bulbs burn out when they suddenly change in temperature after the filament has aged, like the thermal shock of going from room temp to 3000 degrees in a tenth of a second when you turn them on. Any fluctuation of power from the wall when load is applied would be a voltage drop and that may or may not even be present depending on home wiring and cables used to power a load and how much of a load you got.
The mains voltage remains the same, but the resistance of the bulb's filament is low when cold, hence more current flows till it reaches its operating temperature.
dont have an old charger and the new one plus intelli ports dont work for the un plug and plugging method, but i charged an 18 volt nic and took two 6 inch 10 guage wires, stripped the ends half inch back, and touched pos. to pos. and neg. to neg. got a spark, touched it a few more times, and but my old non charging battery in the charger. charging now..... ill let you know in a couple hours if it actually worked. wish me luck.
That doesn't help I do that and get the battery charging but when it says fully charged &light is green battery just dies almost instantly or in few mins how do you renew each cell we can't say it can't cause the reason companys want us to recycle them is they know how to fix them like new do you?
Thanks for this hack, I tried the rapid plugging and unlugging method, it didn't work on my first battery so I tried on my other battery and after about 25 to 30 attempts it took a charge.
^Your explanation of why globes burn out on switch-on is incorrect. The reason is that when the filament is cold it has much lower resistance so there is a surge of current.
Actually, in the USA, voltage is 110, not 120. In Canada, it's 120 (not 110), but people in the US say "120" and Canadians say "110". It's so ironic. I've lived in 3 [Canadian] provinces and 17 States, and worked in many tours as a sound technician. I use voltmeters, and *all* USA power is 105-112, and ALL Canadian is 119-126. Just sayin'. I'll try the "shock" tip on my Motorola radion NiCd batteries. Cool!
The utility delivers 120 volts to your meter base in the good old USA. I know, I've been doing it for 30 years. The advice on here that somehow voltage increases when you flip on a light switch is bogus. To say that you increase voltage when you flip a switch, or there is a voltage "spike" when you flip a switch goes against every electrical tenet existing. A transformer puts out a voltage based on a ratio of windings on the primary and secondary sides. The Only way to increase secondary voltage (the 120 volts delivered to the meter base) is to increase the number of turns on the secondary coil in a transformer. Take away turns, the voltage reduces. This cannot happen by merely flipping a switch. The electrons do not rush to the end of the wire in a big bunch increasing voltage until they level out. Switch on, you get 120. Switch off, you get 0.
Football5198 I have also heard that same crap so many times from people who are not even linemen or electricians. They will argue that myth to the Kremlin, like a Liberal arguing with no end. I guess they think there is some sort of start capacitor in that switch 🤣
120 RMS is it according to NEEMA. (110, 115, 117 some old ones area specific).PEAK VOLTS X 0.707 = RMS.~ 170V PK. X 0.707 = 120 RMS or DC equivalent.HOWEVER the switch will sometimes favour making contact on the PEAK VOLTAGE, with a COLD tungsten filament lamp results in a surge that can blow out light bulbs . CHANGE the switch if blowing light bulbs on a circuit is a problem
787brx8 in comments has several videos on this subject . Just bring up the RUclips search bar and type in 787brx8 . It will show you his videos . Thanks so much for this video !!!!!!!!!!!!-------------------------------Ernest E. Johnson
It won't last'' It will return to a non charge state .. I used a car charger to reset the battery . But in the end the battery is junk . You might get a few more times it works ,but it won't last very long .I have 8 Milwaukee battery's . I will sell them all to anyone who thinks this is a true fix? If there is nothing really wrong with them ? $10 a piece is a good price Or $60 for all'' I don't think anyone will want them ..
I lost interest when he started talking about how lightbulbs burn out. He has no understanding of the difference between resistive circuits and inductive circuits.
Tried this w/ a crap Redback mower 120 v battery but didn't work. Don't buy anything from Redback, they don't honor their warranties and their batteries are TRA$H!
There are several components to doing a pro job. One resource I discovered which successfully combines these is the Magic Mender Wizard (check it out on google) without a doubt the most helpful info that I have ever heard of. Check out this awesome resource.
When I saw this I kept remembering the video where they guy opened a car battery to see what was inside and found a unicorn. I did this for an 18v weed whacker battery that's about 2 years old. I used it for edging and cleaning up after mowing until about 4 months ago. Battery time got shorter and shorter until i couldn't even finish the edging. Did the plug in, plug out about 10 times and let it charge overnight. This morning i did all the edging and the clean up and I still have battery to spare. It's not even straining yet. I don't know how long it will last but this actually did work. Thank you for posting.
Electrical systems (grids) are intended to be "constant voltage" systems. Light bulbs undergo filament evaporation as tungsten is white hot and diffuses to the glass shell over time. The reduced filament diameter results in higher current densities at the minimal diameter points. Current density is the cause of atomic vibration as electron flow density provides more vibration/kinetic transaction to the tungsten atoms, which are bound on a crystalline lattice. When the switch turns on the filament is also at room temperature. Resistance and temperature are linear in tungsten and quite low at room temp( typically a couple of ohms). At operating temp a 60W bulb will be a couple hundred ohms. The thinned part of the filament will undergo massive power dissipation at instant of turn on and proceed to vapourize. When the contact fails a short duration plasma arc occurs and generates the classic blue spectra ( 8000K) colour temperature and the filament opens and we go dark. This is why it always occurs on turn on as the electrical grid does not really control power, but attempts to maintain a constant voltage at all times. The load determines the current draw and final operational power. If you mechanically disturb a bulb at end of life cycle the filament commonly breaks as it has evaporated to a thin state and is fragile and you end up lying under the car in the dark as you tried to move your lamp. Voltages vary with utilities around N.A. and the world (Japan is 100VAC! and Brazil is 127VAC). Most things are specced to run between 110-125VAC with little issue. Light bulb power is rated at a specific value and varies depending where plugged in. The Boston firestation with the 100 year bulb has the bulb in a very yellow state and never turned off. The vapourization is super low so the filament really lasts (exponential mean time between failure..) and the never turn it on and subject it to cold filament transient current densitiy- so it lasts- bit of a technical scam!
Do you find that after doing this trick the battery's hold charge or dissipate rapidly after achieving full charge ? Someone in comment section stated batteries died out very next day, not in this comment section, but other like video using same trick.
Light bulbs burn out at start up because the RESISTANCE is lowest when they are coolest, which allows too much current to flow which melts the filament. Interestingly, when the bulb is hot the resistance rises about 15 x more... do the math: v = i R,
so for a 120v bulb where I is not known you "should" be able to solve by measuring R on a cold 40w bulb as about 26 ohms, so for I =V/R ... ie one might think that for a filament I =120/26 = ~ 4amps BUT :
; the bulb is rated at 40watts so as a check you can use the W=VI equation => so I = W/V = 40w/120v = 0.33 amps (this makes sense where 4a does not; the solution is because the filament heats up and while the cold R is ~26 ohm the hot R is much higher, the hot R comes out to R (HOT) = V/I = 120v/ 0.33 ohm = R(HOT) = 363 ohm (yeah about 363/26 = 14x more ! (we checked others and 15x more R hot than R cold is common place, which explains the first cold R filament burnouts and why electronics go haywire when parts overheat.
Summary: ;when things get hot the Resistance goes way up. Rule of thumb always do worst case analysis Ie HOT and Coldest conditions "Under Max Load/Working " Conditions to make sure your circuit will perform reliably (fortunately only heaters and bulb filaments and other hot devices are the usual problems).
Thank you for throwing the truth out in the midst of the myths presented here.
john Doe z
john Doe that's what i was thinking, too..
The volt/ohm/capacitance/amp meter he referred to is indeed a good one, via amazon and others, its the only one i've ever had that does the capacitance check which is good to have for ac/ ceiling fans/ motors, etc. The stand in the back is very handy to make it stand up at a slant so you can read it easier (also rfunctions as a kind of a hanger so i could hang it im
promptu off a fence rail. )
Best one yet. I was following instruction as I was watching this video. With a surprise it actually worked and I'm currently using the battery. Wow!! You just saved me from buying new batteries. Thanks.
Sulfides build up on the Plates over time impeding the Ion flow and Pulsing the charger pulses the plates and blasts the Sulfides (whiskers) off and then the ions can flow and the battery will charge, works on most batteries especially Lead Acid Batteries.
I have "boiled" lead acid batteries out by dumping the old acid (it is weak and blackened, dirty, but will still burn, so use protection) then I funnel in baking soda in each cell and gently add white distilled vinegar. I do that 2-3 times then rinse with distilled water and put new acid in the cells. I then slow charge it to full charge. My service truck has a 60 month battery now beginning year 8. I keep it clean and maintained. Can't make them last forever but you can inexpensively extend the life considerably. I don't add either acid or distilled water without testing the acid and I keep my terminals clean with electrical silicone on them.
@@marksovine9114 I purchased acid from my local parts , do i need to dilute the acid prior to putting it into the old battery?
I wonder if this could be used as a maintenance procedure. I have a Hitachi drill, my best drill. Fits in my hand perfect, lighter in weight and is well used. For a 12 volt drill, its tough. This method may get me more from my battery packs, as they are $50 at Home Depot.
I only found this to work if the metal is visible and you know which is + and -. I did this to my Ryobi batteries and used the Boost on them and "stroked" the + side. worked Great.
I have two Porter Cable drills that I will have to try this on. Thanks for the tip on the multi-meter!
Almost 8 minute tutorial-ish video for a 1 minute fix. Nicely done.
I've seen guys do this on RUclips but with a welder. Lol. That really shocks them. Lol. Thanks for the tip dw6!
I've been studying battery repairing and found a fantastic resource at Magic Mender Wizard (google it if you are interested) @Love2boat92
I have the exact same Ryobi drill. I went and Don just what you did, and after several times, only the red light came on, saying fast charge. But in about 10 minutes, it went green, showing that the battery was charged. But it was not. The drill did not do anything. Do you have any tips?
Regarding the lightbulb... It's not a case of "fluctuating power"
A lightbulb burns out when you hit the switch is because the filament is cold. A cold filament has a lower resistance than when the filament is hot. A lower resistance means higher current so for example: A cold 60 Watt bulb becomes a 200 watt bulb for a split second.
If the bulb is near the end of it's life that high current surge is enough to blow the bulb on start-up
The power or line voltage may only fluctuate by a few microvolts when you turn on the light and is certainly not noticeable unless you're living in a "doublewide" trailer with an insufficient and antiquated fuse panel that was designed to run a few light bulbs as everything else was expected to run on gas.
so after only like ten minutes of charge, i put the old battery that i shocked with a single other 18v nicad in my drill and it was as powerful feeling as my new lithium battery i purchased today.
shocked one 18v nic with only one other 18v nic and i now have a perfectly working pair of batteries
Hey doublewide I tried this on some old ryobi batteries that ppl recycled but it doesn't seem to last long. I think I need to replace bad cells. How is it holding up for you?
I have a great success with Ryobi 18 v batteries. Maybe 7 out of 10 which is a pretty good recovery rate . I have since gone to Craftsman 19.2v. And have not fixed any of them or Dewalt 18 v. Do you or anyone else know the hack for either of those brands?
I tried this procedure, Ridgid 18v ni-cad. They took the charge, the very next day they were completely DEAD. I went through this 4 times and it failed to hold a charge, then quit
bulbs burn out when they suddenly change in temperature after the filament has aged, like the thermal shock of going from room temp to 3000 degrees in a tenth of a second when you turn them on. Any fluctuation of power from the wall when load is applied would be a voltage drop and that may or may not even be present depending on home wiring and cables used to power a load and how much of a load you got.
The mains voltage remains the same, but the resistance of the bulb's filament is low when cold, hence more current flows till it reaches its operating temperature.
dont have an old charger and the new one plus intelli ports dont work for the un plug and plugging method, but i charged an 18 volt nic and took two 6 inch 10 guage wires, stripped the ends half inch back, and touched pos. to pos. and neg. to neg. got a spark, touched it a few more times, and but my old non charging battery in the charger. charging now..... ill let you know in a couple hours if it actually worked. wish me luck.
That doesn't help I do that and get the battery charging but when it says fully charged &light is green battery just dies almost instantly or in few mins how do you renew each cell we can't say it can't cause the reason companys want us to recycle them is they know how to fix them like new do you?
Thanks for this hack, I tried the rapid plugging and unlugging method, it didn't work on my first battery so I tried on my other battery and after about 25 to 30 attempts it took a charge.
Very interesting. I will have to try that on my next dead battery
I use a power strip to do this shocking it's a little easier to use the rocker switch on the power strip for the on and off!
^Your explanation of why globes burn out on switch-on is incorrect. The reason is that when the filament is cold it has much lower resistance so there is a surge of current.
Nevill is right, poster is wrong. It is a result of higher current during circuit connection than during steady state.
Can I shock a NICAD battery with a lithium ion battery?
You CANNOT see the flicker because the extension cord and plug are RIGHT IN FRONT of the camera view...
I am looking at my tester which is connected to my electric panel and sure enough I have 121 volts a/c like I have always had. I am in Georgia US.
very Interesting, must have a try with my Black & Decker
yep seems to have worked on mine
Actually, in the USA, voltage is 110, not 120. In Canada, it's 120 (not 110), but people in the US say "120" and Canadians say "110". It's so ironic. I've lived in 3 [Canadian] provinces and 17 States, and worked in many tours as a sound technician. I use voltmeters, and *all* USA power is 105-112, and ALL Canadian is 119-126.
Just sayin'. I'll try the "shock" tip on my Motorola radion NiCd batteries. Cool!
The utility delivers 120 volts to your meter base in the good old USA. I know, I've been doing it for 30 years. The advice on here that somehow voltage increases when you flip on a light switch is bogus. To say that you increase voltage when you flip a switch, or there is a voltage "spike" when you flip a switch goes against every electrical tenet existing. A transformer puts out a voltage based on a ratio of windings on the primary and secondary sides. The Only way to increase secondary voltage (the 120 volts delivered to the meter base) is to increase the number of turns on the secondary coil in a transformer. Take away turns, the voltage reduces. This cannot happen by merely flipping a switch. The electrons do not rush to the end of the wire in a big bunch increasing voltage until they level out. Switch on, you get 120. Switch off, you get 0.
Football5198 I have also heard that same crap so many times from people who are not even linemen or electricians. They will argue that myth to the Kremlin, like a Liberal arguing with no end. I guess they think there is some sort of start capacitor in that switch 🤣
120 RMS is it according to NEEMA. (110, 115, 117 some old ones area specific).PEAK VOLTS X 0.707 = RMS.~ 170V PK. X 0.707 = 120 RMS or DC equivalent.HOWEVER the switch will sometimes favour making contact on the PEAK VOLTAGE, with a COLD tungsten filament lamp results in a surge that can blow out light bulbs . CHANGE the switch if blowing light bulbs on a circuit is a problem
In U.S., voltage is 120
Accu door meten
It really worked on my AA batteries recharger
I tried it with my Skil 180BAT )over 100 times) and it did not work?????????????????
f150sbcglobal of course we have to understand that if the batteries have ruptured and leaked we could be out of luck to revive them
Tried this over and over with my craftsman 18v..it never worked.
Awesome I did it successfully. thank you.
Wonderful tip, thanks for the great videos.
Thank You !
GREAT TIP
Well that a great idea. Thanks
Trying to revive a swivel sweeper battery😁😁😂
787brx8 in comments has several videos on this subject . Just bring up the RUclips search bar and type in 787brx8 . It will show you his videos . Thanks so much for this video !!!!!!!!!!!!-------------------------------Ernest E. Johnson
You sound like somebody I know in Carroll County Maryland, you sound just like him. Do you live in Carroll County Maryland? Lol
Great vid
Wrong description of what is happening when you connect and disconnect the charger. wow.
It works!!
Great tip! Thanks!!!
Barclay's Mommy, Donna Thanks!
Tried this on 4 batteries,no success
It won't last'' It will return to a non charge state .. I used a car charger to reset the battery . But in the end the battery is junk . You might get a few more times it works ,but it won't last very long .I have 8 Milwaukee battery's . I will sell them all to anyone who thinks this is a true fix? If there is nothing really wrong with them ? $10 a piece is a good price Or $60 for all'' I don't think anyone will want them ..
You'll ruin the good cells if you charge a battery that has bad cells.
I lost interest when he started talking about how lightbulbs burn out. He has no understanding of the difference between resistive circuits and inductive circuits.
will try too. Thanks.
worked great bud...thanks!
I use a battery charger.
Great info! Thanks buddy!
Good mathes
"42v maybe more - who knows?". Clearly not you.
Li-ion are a just a joke,. way to much high maintenance.
Tried this w/ a crap Redback mower 120 v battery but didn't work. Don't buy anything from Redback, they don't honor their warranties and their batteries are TRA$H!
There are several components to doing a pro job. One resource I discovered which successfully combines these is the Magic Mender Wizard (check it out on google) without a doubt the most helpful info that I have ever heard of. Check out this awesome resource.
using a battery charger...sorry...
9
Lightbulb *POP* = Manufacturers *$$$CHACHING$$$*
John Doe's reply mirrors what I would have said. You are spreading BS. Go back to high school.