Good, clear instructions. A small point though: according to the Neutrik instructional .pdf, 'Attention: If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break away this part of the chuck.' Therefore, for cables
Great video! On the neutrik gold right angle to connectors, I see a tip, a larger shield and then there is a little silver tab a bit further up the casing with a little number 2 next to is. Do you know what that little tab is used for?
I didn't realise that the black bit around the core wire was conductive and I always got a weaker signal with my home-made cables or my home-fixed cables. Thank you so much
Nice illustration. Question, why remove the "tip or tab end" from the chuck? The Neutrik PDF instructions page doesn't show this step, in fact the chuck is inserted whole right after the boot. I ask, because I like to know the reasons behind doing so or not.
Does it not work at all? (Dead quiet), crackle, or works but it’s muffled? Most likely you accidentally have the tip and shield touching each other creating a dead short. If you have a multimeter, test the resistance between the tip and sleeve lower part of the plug. It should be too high for your meter to measure. If it’s not, you may have melted insulation or dripped solder somewhere and created a current path other than the desired one.
Hello Guys, I need some help! I have a plug neutrik NYS 228, and my cable is mono, and I don't know how to solder it cuz the plug has two planes. Can somebody help me?
The iron should be heating both the wire and the cup as you feed solder into it. What you are doing is removing the iron as you put solder there. Your solder is forming shapes because of this which means it is becoming dry. Solder should flow like liquid. A tell tale sign of a bad soldering technique is moving the iron tip around like you are trying to paint with solder.
Nice demo on the jacks but the soldering isnt good - applying solder directly onto a hot tip causes solder to flow all over the tip and not onto the surfaces that it needs affixed to - solder flows towards heat or the tip- not away from it.
I love Neutrik jacks, but this central part where the cable core goes is so freaking small, I cannot get a neat, nice looking solder for the life of me. But I see you have the same issue.
I neeeever knew you had to remove that tag! No wonder neutrik connectors always seemed like a big pain in the butt! Why does it not say this on the bag? I always find I have to use my belt grinder to remove a bit of the part that crimps onto the cable since there is just NO way they would ever screw together... removing the tap section will probably make this a lot easier!
This is not how you are supposed to solder, it's actually completely wrong as many others have pointed out, your solder didn't even adhere to the jack surfaces. You're not supposed to put solder directly on the tip of the soldering iron but instead warm up the metal parts of the jack and the wire itself while pressing the soldering wire against it so the heat is transfered through the parts that you actually want to solder together because they need to be hot. This won't last, if it even works at all.
Tell that to me: I could never find why two of my cables have resistances between tip and sleeve in the order of the hundreds of kOhm. I have used them for years. Today I repaired them finally and have removed the jacket in a couple more too. Tomorrow I will continue removing jackets from all. In these days I am building a lot more.
Some shocking soldering skills my dude
I hate to be that guy, but I agree. That shielding to the outside housing....😬
Very clearly laid out and executed video. Thanks!
Good, clear instructions. A small point though: according to the Neutrik instructional .pdf,
'Attention: If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break
away this part of the chuck.'
Therefore, for cables
A really neat job and the two vise's make it so easy.
Very poor job on the soldering actually, but ok.
Thanks. These vise's help a ton.
@@derbigpr500 how so?
Great video! On the neutrik gold right angle to connectors, I see a tip, a larger shield and then there is a little silver tab a bit further up the casing with a little number 2 next to is. Do you know what that little tab is used for?
I didn't realise that the black bit around the core wire was conductive and I always got a weaker signal with my home-made cables or my home-fixed cables. Thank you so much
Perfect, thanks dude.
Nice illustration. Question, why remove the "tip or tab end" from the chuck? The Neutrik PDF instructions page doesn't show this step, in fact the chuck is inserted whole right after the boot. I ask, because I like to know the reasons behind doing so or not.
Part of instructions, Step D: "If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break away
this part of the chuck."
@@acoustic61 True, I did forget about that part. I used Mogami 2524 cable, clipped that piece off.
what temperature are you typically soldering at?
The manual says you brake the clip ONLY if the cable diameter(outer jacket) is more than 5.50mm
Looks like he's using mogami 2524.. it's about 6mm iirc...
hi sir, which the best.. switchcraft or neutrik silentplug? and best sound.
Any chance you could demonstrate assembly and soldering of W2534 with NP3X-B TRS connectors?
Nice video thanks man, God bless
What mogami wire did you use - what guage?I have 2524 and the thinner 2319.
We used the Mogami 2524 in this video
Ron Chibnik code 2319
Great music
Hi! I followed all your steps and my cable doesn’t work. Any ideas where I might have gone wrong??
Does it not work at all? (Dead quiet), crackle, or works but it’s muffled? Most likely you accidentally have the tip and shield touching each other creating a dead short. If you have a multimeter, test the resistance between the tip and sleeve lower part of the plug. It should be too high for your meter to measure. If it’s not, you may have melted insulation or dripped solder somewhere and created a current path other than the desired one.
Hello Guys, I need some help! I have a plug neutrik NYS 228, and my cable is mono, and I don't know how to solder it cuz the plug has two planes. Can somebody help me?
The iron should be heating both the wire and the cup as you feed solder into it. What you are doing is removing the iron as you put solder there. Your solder is forming shapes because of this which means it is becoming dry. Solder should flow like liquid. A tell tale sign of a bad soldering technique is moving the iron tip around like you are trying to paint with solder.
I always tin both sides then heat them together till the solder flows. I’m also using a small screwdriver to apply a bit of pressure while it dries.
Nice demo on the jacks but the soldering isnt good - applying solder directly onto a hot tip causes solder to flow all over the tip and not onto the surfaces that it needs affixed to - solder flows towards heat or the tip- not away from it.
thanks a lot,,,,,!!!!👌
I love Neutrik jacks, but this central part where the cable core goes is so freaking small, I cannot get a neat, nice looking solder for the life of me. But I see you have the same issue.
Have you tried pre-tinning the plug contact points in addition to tinning the wire? He doesn’t do that here…
I neeeever knew you had to remove that tag! No wonder neutrik connectors always seemed like a big pain in the butt! Why does it not say this on the bag? I always find I have to use my belt grinder to remove a bit of the part that crimps onto the cable since there is just NO way they would ever screw together... removing the tap section will probably make this a lot easier!
you only remove that bit if the diameter of the cable is more than 5.5mm, so most cables are below that.
@@JeremyGreysmark Yep, just read this in the assembly instructions I found on the Neutrik website :)
Thank you!
This is not how you are supposed to solder, it's actually completely wrong as many others have pointed out, your solder didn't even adhere to the jack surfaces. You're not supposed to put solder directly on the tip of the soldering iron but instead warm up the metal parts of the jack and the wire itself while pressing the soldering wire against it so the heat is transfered through the parts that you actually want to solder together because they need to be hot. This won't last, if it even works at all.
You need some flux man ....
The solder we use contains no-clean flux in the core. Sorry forgot to mention that
Who would have though the inside jacket is conductive i was loosing my mind making cables yesterday. Made like 10 cables all with cross talk 😫
Tell that to me: I could never find why two of my cables have resistances between tip and sleeve in the order of the hundreds of kOhm. I have used them for years. Today I repaired them finally and have removed the jacket in a couple more too. Tomorrow I will continue removing jackets from all. In these days I am building a lot more.