Davinci 1.0A 3D Printer Basic Fixes, EEPROM Resetter, and Slic3r Settings!
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This video is about Davinci XYZ 1.0A printer; Basic setup, hardware fixes, how to reset the cartridge filament, and how to dump the included software and get great prints WITHOUT flashing Repedier Host software and voiding your warranty! This information is known to work with the Da Vinci XYZ printer 1.0A, as of July, 2015 :)
Sorry for the shaky video, I was using my cameraphone :) The websites for all of the information is listed below. Any questions, please let me know, and be sure to check out my fetal specimens and skulls and skeletons at:
www.etsy.com/s...
How to reset filament cartridge, by CJ.. Works on the 1.0A:
• DA VINCI 1.0 FILAMENT ...
Jess Coburn and Slic3r Settings (I can share my settings):
jesscoburn.com/...
Settings (sketch) for the arduino 1.5.8 software to flash the cartridge:
voltivo.com/med...
Arduino 1.5.8 (d/l the BETA version here):
www.arduino.cc...
Meshmixer (I use this to fix my files first, then import into slic3r):
www.meshmixer.com
Alternatively, you can use the Microsoft Netfabb online application to fix common errors in your STL files for free here:
modelrepair.az...
Chucks 'filament friday' listings for the 1.0A, good information here:
• XYZprinting da Vinci 1...
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Thanks a lot!! I'm planing to buy Davinci 1.0 but not before I found any solution for the software and cartridge issues, now you save me a lot of time and energy, thanks again.
h2205 No problem, glad it helped!
Very informative, thanks for taking the time to make the video.
You're a genius!!! Thanks for sharing all that information, is really cool and I know how much time tale it to you, Im happy to see that you could do such pieces with I da Vinci, I have to try. Thank you! Very good job man.
Thank you very much for sharing. Very informative and time saving.
i use elmer's glue purple and it works so nice and use a thick amount its washable it wont need to smash it to sti so much and after the print is done you have multiple layers under the print so a straight razor slides with ease. you don't have to recalibrate later from fighting the print and moving the table. i've watches most of your videos very informative thanks for helpin me. i still need to lean slicer before i upgrade to this though. i just say no for the flash update everytime i use it so far.
Super useful video, thanks! Just got an open box 1.0A yesterday and am printing my external reel holder. Great to know about the export to 3w with Slicer... In retrospect, do you wish you had jumped to Repetier sooner?
I appreciate your effort, I am new at this,Little hard to follow your instructions, my printer is brand new, made a couple prints good, now when I go to print the bed actually cooled off rather than heat up, when I calibrate, and it fails, the bed and extruders heats up, when I go to print they cool off, confused
Could you post a link to screenshots of your Slic3er settings? I assume since you said you could share yours there are some differences from the Jess Coburn link. Your prints look really good and I hope I can get the same level of quality with the Hatchbox ABS I have arriving soon.
I hope to getting around to trying this as I was already forced to block the software in Windows firewall even using the genuine cartridges as it claimed they were not genuine and their customer support does not support Australia which left me pretty peeved I must say.
I figured out that much myself once I realized it was dialing home.
The software is pretty dodgy on my PC too even though I can use most other 3D programs and render engines easily it chokes and freezes badly.
Question. I am new to 3D printing and just bought my first 3D Printer a Da Vinci 1.0A. I was following your video about using Slic3r. Do you have to go through that long set up process for each 3D model you want to print?
+CorumRask Unfortunately, yes. unless you use the stock software (xyzware). It's a trade-off as to plug and play and lesser quality, vs. more control (and a steeper learning curve) and better quality. Once you learn the basics of printing (or your machine is no longer under warranty), I would suggest flashing your system with repetier firmware. There's a lot to learn, but it's worth it.. I now have repetier on both my davinci systems, and have purchased simplify3D for my slicing. I get amazing prints, but I control EVERYTHING, so if you aren't sure what your doing, you could burn down your house :) Learn in steps.
Wanted to share recent problems and my solutions... I started getting the dreaded "extruder clicking", squeaking, and no filament coming out. it happens after 45 seconds of printing, and does it with every software I use (cura, slic3r, kisslicer) and every filament I have.. EXCEPT when I print the demos from the printer WITH the original ABS :/. After three days of trying everything I could find online, including calibrating the bed a dozen times, tearing down and cleaning out the extruder, and just about to call the extruder motor dying.. I found the solution: I lowered my extruder temp from 235 (which was working fine) to 225. I believe b/c of the high humity we have been having, the filament (all from Hatchbox) had gotten damp and lowered the workable extruder temp. Go figure. Printing silent as a mouse, and back to beautiful prints :)
Darryl Ricketts I have the same problem with the calibration. Even with a perfect calibration, Z is way too close to the bed. Thinking about doing it manually with a feeler gauge.
The humidity, now that's an issue with abs. It's hygroscopic. any kind of moisture it'll just soak it up. Same with PET (eg. clear soda bottles). I'd love to be able to use HDPE or PP though the printer but it looks like i'll need a new hot end, need to get much much hotter.
mechanicalfluff I never use the calibration on the machine, I've always used the slip of paper method outlined elsewhere.. Google it on solidforums or Volvito forums, it keeps sets the extruder about .11 off the bed, and my first layer is always perfect.. and I know ABS is hygroscopic, I just didn't think about it possibly changing the melting temps :)
+Darryl Ricketts my printer just shakes and sens code0031
Great video...can you post the gcode of the header. for some reason when i begin printing it shoots off the plate. I do have the bed size as 200x200 I think its the header so can you please post yours. Thanks
loczster replace everything above G21 with this:
; filename = composition.3w
; machine = daVinciF10
; material = default
; layer_height = 0.2
; fill_density = 0.10
; shells = 3
; speed = 60
; total_layers = 124
; total_filament = 2116.02
; dimension = 51.23:45.21:24.95
; extruder = 1
G21 ;
Darryl Ricketts Thanks a million!!
+Darryl Ricketts
Have you tried replacing total_filament = 0 to see if it will stop decrementing your cartridge and eliminate having to reflash your cart eeprom?
+Sam Schmidt No I have not. I've been using the settings I found online. I will soon be flashing my firmware for Repetier Host soon, so I won't have to do this anymore
Hi Darryl. Would you like to share your Slic3r settings with us? Perhaps by exporting your config to an .ini file in Slic3r? Thanks!
+Mads Gliemann Sure. Your settings may be a little different, but here's what I was using:
# generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on Sun Nov 8 17:20:01 2015
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200
bed_temperature = 20
before_layer_gcode =
bottom_solid_layers = 3
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 35
brim_width = 3
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 1
default_acceleration = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
dont_support_bridges = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
end_gcode = M117 Done
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off Bed
G90 ; Absolute
G28 X0 Y0 ; home
M117 Down Bed
G1 Z200 ; Lower bed
M117 Cleaning
M100 ;Cleaning
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Cooling
M190 S55 ; Bed (cooling)
M116 ; Wait for all temperatures
M140 S0 ; turn off Bed
M117 Pickup piece
M300 s2500 p400 ; Beep
M300 s2000 p400
M300 s1500 p400
M300 s1000 p400
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Printer Ready
external_fill_pattern = rectilinear
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
external_perimeter_speed = 70%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extruder_offset = 0x0
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1.05
extrusion_width = 0
fan_always_on = 0
fan_below_layer_time = 60
filament_colour = #FFFFFF
filament_diameter = 1.78
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 10%
fill_pattern = honeycomb
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_bed_temperature = 98
first_layer_extrusion_width = 200%
first_layer_height = 0.35
first_layer_speed = 40%
first_layer_temperature = 235
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_flavor = reprap
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 15%
infill_speed = 40
interface_shells = 0
layer_gcode =
layer_height = 0.2
max_fan_speed = 100
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_fan_speed = 100
min_print_speed = 10
min_skirt_length = 0
notes =
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
octoprint_apikey =
octoprint_host =
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 40
perimeters = 2
post_process =
pressure_advance = 0
raft_layers = 0
resolution = 0
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 2
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 40
seam_position = aligned
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slowdown_below_layer_time = 30
small_perimeter_speed = 15
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 20
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
start_gcode = M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; Bed (no wait)
M106 S255 ; Start fan
G90 ; set absolute coordinates
G28 ; home all axis
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; Bed (wait)
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; Extruder (no wait)
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; Extruder (wait)
M117 Start
M300 s1000 p400 ; Beep
M300 s1500 p400
M300 s2000 p400
M300 s2500 p400
M117 Cleaning
M100 ; Cleaning
G1 Z5 F1500
G1 X0 Y15 F1000
G1 X32 Y30 F1000
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 Z[first_layer_height] F4800.000
G1 X32 Y170 E14 F1000
G1 X32 Y185 F1000
M117 Printing
support_material = 1
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 1
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = pillars
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 35
support_material_threshold = 0
temperature = 235
thin_walls = 1
threads = 2
toolchange_gcode =
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 15
top_solid_layers = 4
travel_speed = 80
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
vibration_limit = 0
wipe = 0
xy_size_compensation = 0
z_offset = 0
Great, thanks!
with the stock setup, is the temperature of the filament set on the chip on the cartridge, or is it set in the STL file?
+shahphone the original temperature is set on the chip, but can be changed in the code
Hi, is it possible to print in XYZware a gcode from Slic3r modified in the way shown in this video, but without doing all trikcs with arduino and firewall earlier? My buddy has a da Vinci 1.0A and he print everything only in XYZwere (and also it comunicate with internet still), so I wonder if we could print a gcode prepered in slic3r and modifited in notepad++ on it right now?
Probably, but I no longer have XYZware on any of my DaVinci's, I've upgraded all of them to Repetier 0.92, MUCH more control and better prints!
looks like the Jess Coburn link is down.
If you want to keep the original firmware Simplify3d is the way to go you can even send directly to the davinci and it has a lot of tools to help you but it is not free @ $150.
Does the eeprom thing work with the davinci jr?
Hi, please i need some help, my print its not working from pc i send some project the print say "receiving job" and dont work it, what should do i do? thanks a lot!!
check your baud rate between the two, make sure it's the same on the computer and printer.
I recently flashed my 1.0 and the flash says it was successful, but when I plug it up to my pc, my pc will not recognize it. Anyone know what would cause that?
I'm having trouble with my computer thinking i'm low on filament when it's not. First I thought it was my cartridge but it says it even with a full one.
+michael rodgers It sounds like it may be a software glitch, are you using the original software? I would try updating it or reinstalling :)
+Darryl Ricketts It was a glitch. I tried to uninstall reinstall but it still said it was low. I had to run a test print to get it to show up correctly. Weird right! Anyway, I enjoyed the video and all you input. Thank you
As a side note, I have been having multiple problems lately of the extruder producing stringy prints, temp fluctuations, etc., so after 560 hours, I have flashed mine with Repetier firmware. Just so you know, you have to manually tell it EVERYTHING now (I was afraid to leave the machine lol), but with some patience, it is back to printing beautiful prints again :) Glad I moved over, now I have COMPLETE CONTROL over my machine, and I must say, I love it. See some examples of prints HERE:
facebook.com/FetalReproductions/
www.etsy.com/shop/FetalReproductions?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Please check it out and follow me on Facebook or Etsy :)
so I'm ordering a 1.0 pro and all in one. I was thinking during the video in glad I watched and didn't flash it as Soon as I got it. I know I shouldn't flash the all in one. cause it will lose the scan ability. which is why I'm getting it. but you recommend flashing for repetier now? I'm considering flashing the pro to avoid the issues you guys were having. just don't want to do it if slice worked just as well.
MIGHT WANT TO UPDATE PRINTER SOFTWARE TO MAKERS SWEET MUCH BETTER SOFTWARE. THEN RE DISCONNECT.
mail to xyzprinter.
I am very upset, the standard or generally in my experience, is that Chinese-made products are of poor quality and designed to fail after a short time of use. This happens with this printer created by you, which from the beginning has been wrongly operated, the printed object does not have the right dimensions or faces and finish that promote their videos. Many people buy their products as having faith their product is good and does what they say, but the evidence is another. Understand that this printer is to work and not for leisure, so I need to work properly. Please let me respectfully request that the procedure for this product print correctly . These are the errors.
The faces are not parallel
The layers are not parallel and do curved edges
Bronze bearings (bad design ) have offset and create overlap
Consumers are the ones who praise the products, if they are good have good publicity, but if they are bad, that information spreads quickly and your company will suffer with the bad publicity, so I have faith that you will give me some solution to these problems .