I'd like to thank you, sir. This far in the future, my da Vinci printer was gathering dust. Being able to use regular filament has breathed new life into it, and new creativity!
Thank you very much ....even 4 years later this video is very usefull ....really great ....i decided choose repetier host instead of XYZ, tired of their commercial politics ....happy to find such a community
Good video. I have just flashed my 1.0A all went to plan with no problems at all. I have one problem that I can't seem to fix. Whenever I try to move the bed down manually from the software or the printer buttons, for example after an abort, before the bed travels down it goes to home which is at max height so if you have a job on the bed it is forced up into the print head carriage or rails. Is there a way of sorting this. ie. bed just moves down without homing first.
Liker-Subscriber-Notifier here. Just did the Davinci to Repetier Firmware Upgrade (2021.08.29) - this is very helpful. Nice to see that old machine moving again (I had tried to upgrade the firmware a few years ago - and bricked it). Keep the great videos coming!
Repetier is awesome. I've been using it for months, but I've only ever run ABS. I've attempted PLA a couple times, but just haven't got the settings right. Do you have filament settings that have worked for you with PLA?
Sooo many of your videos have been helpful on my Da Vinci 1.0 rebuilding journey, I'm hoping you can save me once again... I have the machine reflashed to repetier 0.91 and have had success in the past but now I cannot for the life of me get circles to print correctly. I have tried everything I could think of or seen fixes for (belts tightened, replaced carriage as well as Drylin Polymer bearings, X axis belt tensioner fixed, Z axis anti wobble topper, z axis bearing slop fixed, rod bearing holders all replaced). I have also followed all repetier settings aimed at reducing jerk and vibration. The circles tend to be oval through the +45 degree angle through +225 degrees. I'm wasting soooo much filament trying to get this dialed in. PLEASE HELP!!!!
It’s usually related to a motor missing steps. You may have a broken stepper motor wire. They tend to break internally to the insulation so you don’t see it.
@@FilamentFriday It wasn't the cables for x or y axis (tried new ones). The carriage I have for the E3DV6 was actually slightly loose on the x axia belt and I could barely see it. But I find that while looking at the cables lol. Thanks again for the help.
I had the same problem an pulled my hair out, and now it won't grow back. I was on the phone with an XYZ Printing engineer who made me do the following: - manually move the extruder assembly to the front of the machine. - look underneath and feel which of the left and right brackets are hitting the front pulleys FIRST. - loosen the side that needs adjusting, and "jump" the Y belt (push some teeth forward/backward) so that both black carriages are flush.
Thank you, learned a setting or two I need to adjust, especially getting it to drop the bed after a print. I don't have or have not figured out how to get light actuation. I'm thinking of adding to to the custom G-code at the end. I don't see where to toun the light on and off through the panel either. Probably simple and I'm missing it.
this info is helping me learn how to use Repetier setting , thanksI am getting ready to flash my 10a ,, and one question the printing takes a long time when the print is sent to the printer is it like it does in XYZware , as you don't need to be connected to the printer any more. ? or does it have to still be connected. I use USB Printer and Device Server HMP S2U. and only have it connected to the printer just to transmit the print to the printer then I can disconnect it from the computer because its at the other end of the house.
Hi Chuck, Can you please help me with adding a part cooling fan? I have found that on the pcb on the extruder it has a fan b part so I have added a fan there but I feel I need to change something in the firmware settings... Can you please help or do a video on this please?
Hey Chuck.. Just like you, I just started receiving the dreaded "Cartridge error" on my Davinci so tired of resetting cartridges chips, I just reflashed to Repetier...However I use Simplify3D for my prints.. Do you have any settings (Profile, Start-End G-Code scripts, Temperature settings, etc) for Simplify3D..?? Thanks and keep on the great work..!!
Wow..that sucks..!! As I'm writing to you right now I've managed to get it to work and it's printing really good. However unlike with the stock Davinci, Simplify3d doesn't connect automatically to the printer..I have to manually connect and also unlike the stock Davinci it doesn't send the sliced file to the printer so I can later disconnect the USB...it has to be connected all the time during the printing
HELP. Hi, I've got a 1.0 A with firmware 2.1.2, I wanted to know how to reset the cartridge, I downloaded one reset tool to my arduino, but when I put the cartridge back it reads the same almost empty amount 003M Any ideas. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
hey i need help if you can, i have the same firmware and it was working then suddenly the back light on the display went out. When i go to turn the printer back on it shows 2 broken solid lines with no back light and i cant get commands to the printer... Not sure what happened..
Thanks again for your usefull Videos, I flashed mi Davinci AIO. but im not able to connect it to Repetier or Cura, did the settings on four video, also downloaded arduino IDE and the driver of the plate. and ran out of ideas :/ Thanks and i'll appreciate your advice
Oh I watched that, but thought that was purely for PLA not ABS. So I guess its the same but with a 90C bed and 210 on the nozzle? Also, did you have an issue at first (with both Cura and Slic3r) where it hits the print bed when it starts a print? PS: Fluff is my other account
Thank you, I actually totally forgot its just G code, So my work around is to set G0 F9000 x0 y0 z5 before it moves the X and Y axis before layer 1. For reference, I added this line here... ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F9000 x0 y0 z5 G0 F9000 X98.897 Y17.632 Z0.300 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1800 X99.181 Y16.031 E0.08112
Hey I'm Max clemens and I just built a 3D printer and I saw that you had cura slicer and cool setting on it how did you get that because I've hear the it's a better slicer you you had it on the screen at the start of the vid so I just want to know how to get cura slicer on repiteir host pls
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products chuck can you do more with the stock da vici 1.0 I need some more tips and I know repiter is hard to upgrade to and it avoids my warranty so do you think you can do more with the stock da vici?
+Ryan Mayfield You have FAR more control, and options in supplies, with a Repetier-flashed Da Vinci, Ryan. If you're not comfortable doing it, you shouldn't do it until you know that it's right for you. When it's time, you'll know. ;)
hey chuck i just got my davinci about 2 months ago and it ran great out of the box. sadly today i came home to the y motor harness being broken :(, any suggestions on how to fix it? +Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products, hey i watched the video and it gave me some helpful hints, i still cannot seem to find the problem though. I just really want to get back to printing :(
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Even though Cura isn't in the Mac version of Repetier for some reason, you can download Cura separately, slice it there, and then put it back into Repetier.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I actually realized that I had been using the older version of Cura, and downloaded the new one. I couldn't figure out how to make the new Cura work for any printers other than the Ultimaker, so I switched back to the old Cura. I believe that repetier still uses the old Cura on PC too.
***** I _always_ watch/thumbs-up your videos, Chuck! I enjoy your delivery, you check your ego before you hit record, and it's refreshing. I meant to comment, what, a month ago on your switch? I've been running Repetier since the day after getting my 1.0a - the stock system is fine for the average person, but being all techy-and-stuff, I didn't need to subsidize the printer with filament. I just recently took the plunge on a new extruder, and there was a major learning-curve there! You're someone that could do that curve justice, so look forward to watching your migration regardless! Can't wait to see what you do with NinjaFlex and SemiFlex - it's pretty awesome!
The stock extruder feed just chews up stretchy filament and one ends up with a mess that is VERY tough to clean up. There also isn't adequate cooling/heat sinking, which doesn't lend well to the flex plastics. in short: no.not without replacing ( or redesigning) the extruder.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I wasn't aware of that, good safety tip! I'm using the E3D v6 kit, with the tip that came with it. i have other tips but haven't tried them
+alynn333333 I am using davinci aio with a e3d hot end and it prints fine with tpu using the stock davinci extruder gears. Note the e3d has the same nozzle size as the davinci stock hot end ( same nozzle dimension .4). with the davinci and tpu you need to print slow but it is do able (although maybe only on a 1.0a sorta like pla) . I have seen some videos on youtube that show a unmodified davinci (other then the flash to repetier) printing tpu. To print ninja flex you need a layer fan, but it can be done on a stock hot end.TPU is actually a lot of fun to use and the inter layer adhesion is incredible. supports are an issue though as it wont break away. due to the interlayer adhesion you have to cut away supports. I should try the water hose one using the tpu. that could be fun.However with it being so flex able it is easy for it to "spit" out the filament to the side if you print to fast. the key is to print slow. don't go higher then 30 mm/s and that is pushing it. nice thing is if you are watching it closely you can pause the print and get the nozzle reflowing and then restart the print even if you missed a whole layer. like I said the inter layer adhesion is simply fantastic.I have used the tpu to print a lot of gopro mounts and extension arms, lens covers and other items that flexibility is key. Note tpu isn't good for things that need to be ridged, but is great for things you need to be flex able and durable. The gopro tpu mounts have to ues the "locking plug / antivibration" solution to stay in the clips since the arms are not stiff enf to not flex inward during use.
I'd like to thank you, sir. This far in the future, my da Vinci printer was gathering dust. Being able to use regular filament has breathed new life into it, and new creativity!
Thanks again, 2024, another Da Vinci 1.0 brought back to life!
Thank you very much ....even 4 years later this video is very usefull ....really great ....i decided choose repetier host instead of XYZ, tired of their commercial politics ....happy to find such a community
Yeah, Thanks! 6 years later.
Good video. I have just flashed my 1.0A all went to plan with no problems at all. I have one problem that I can't seem to fix. Whenever I try to move the bed down manually from the software or the printer buttons, for example after an abort, before the bed travels down it goes to home which is at max height so if you have a job on the bed it is forced up into the print head carriage or rails. Is there a way of sorting this. ie. bed just moves down without homing first.
I know this video is old. BUT Thank you for this. I have a question. After the printer was flashed with Repetier . How do you use the scan feature?
I have a question.. my da vinci is making some squeaking noises. What should I use to grease the rods?
Liker-Subscriber-Notifier here. Just did the Davinci to Repetier Firmware Upgrade (2021.08.29) - this is very helpful. Nice to see that old machine moving again (I had tried to upgrade the firmware a few years ago - and bricked it). Keep the great videos coming!
Repetier is awesome. I've been using it for months, but I've only ever run ABS. I've attempted PLA a couple times, but just haven't got the settings right. Do you have filament settings that have worked for you with PLA?
Sooo many of your videos have been helpful on my Da Vinci 1.0 rebuilding journey, I'm hoping you can save me once again...
I have the machine reflashed to repetier 0.91 and have had success in the past but now I cannot for the life of me get circles to print correctly. I have tried everything I could think of or seen fixes for (belts tightened, replaced carriage as well as Drylin Polymer bearings, X axis belt tensioner fixed, Z axis anti wobble topper, z axis bearing slop fixed, rod bearing holders all replaced). I have also followed all repetier settings aimed at reducing jerk and vibration. The circles tend to be oval through the +45 degree angle through +225 degrees. I'm wasting soooo much filament trying to get this dialed in.
PLEASE HELP!!!!
It’s usually related to a motor missing steps. You may have a broken stepper motor wire. They tend to break internally to the insulation so you don’t see it.
@@FilamentFriday It wasn't the cables for x or y axis (tried new ones). The carriage I have for the E3DV6 was actually slightly loose on the x axia belt and I could barely see it. But I find that while looking at the cables lol.
Thanks again for the help.
I had the same problem an pulled my hair out, and now it won't grow back. I was on the phone with an XYZ Printing engineer who made me do the following:
- manually move the extruder assembly to the front of the machine.
- look underneath and feel which of the left and right brackets are hitting the front pulleys FIRST.
- loosen the side that needs adjusting, and "jump" the Y belt (push some teeth forward/backward) so that both black carriages are flush.
When are you going to show Simplify3D with the Repetier machine? I want to see comparisons
Thank you, learned a setting or two I need to adjust, especially getting it to drop the bed after a print. I don't have or have not figured out how to get light actuation. I'm thinking of adding to to the custom G-code at the end. I don't see where to toun the light on and off through the panel either. Probably simple and I'm missing it.
Thank you so much for this Chuck, I can't wait until next Friday now, you have been such a big help with all of your videos.Thanks again 😄
this info is helping me learn how to use Repetier setting , thanksI am getting ready to flash my 10a ,, and one question the printing takes a long time when the print is sent to the printer is it like it does in XYZware , as you don't need to be connected to the printer any more. ? or does it have to still be connected. I use USB Printer and Device Server HMP S2U. and only have it connected to the printer just to transmit the print to the printer then I can disconnect it from the computer because its at the other end of the house.
Hi Chuck, Can you please help me with adding a part cooling fan? I have found that on the pcb on the extruder it has a fan b part so I have added a fan there but I feel I need to change something in the firmware settings... Can you please help or do a video on this please?
hello sir does repetier have an option to tune the e steps for the Davinci 1.0 ?
do you have any tutorial that shows how to flash the 1.0 to use repetier firmware? thanks for your time
Hey Chuck..
Just like you, I just started receiving the dreaded "Cartridge error" on my Davinci so tired of resetting cartridges chips, I just reflashed to Repetier...However I use Simplify3D for my prints..
Do you have any settings (Profile, Start-End G-Code scripts, Temperature settings, etc) for Simplify3D..??
Thanks and keep on the great work..!!
Ohhh..ok so you just use Slic3r and Reptier Host on your reflashed Davinci or both Repetier Host AND Simplify3d using the Davinci settings??
Wow..that sucks..!! As I'm writing to you right now I've managed to get it to work and it's printing really good. However unlike with the stock Davinci, Simplify3d doesn't connect automatically to the printer..I have to manually connect and also unlike the stock Davinci it doesn't send the sliced file to the printer so I can later disconnect the USB...it has to be connected all the time during the printing
HELP.
Hi, I've got a 1.0 A with firmware 2.1.2, I wanted to know how to reset the cartridge, I downloaded one reset tool to my arduino, but when I put the cartridge back it reads the same almost empty amount 003M
Any ideas.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
hey i need help if you can, i have the same firmware and it was working then suddenly the back light on the display went out. When i go to turn the printer back on it shows 2 broken solid lines with no back light and i cant get commands to the printer... Not sure what happened..
Did you leave the wire when you flashed the eeprom
Good Tutorial... Very helpful. Thanks Chuck.
Thanks again for your usefull Videos, I flashed mi Davinci AIO. but im not able to connect it to Repetier or Cura, did the settings on four video, also downloaded arduino IDE and the driver of the plate. and ran out of ideas :/ Thanks and i'll appreciate your advice
I’m not sure AIO was capable of reflash. XYZ printing did something to prevent it I thought. I only did my original 1.0. I no longer have it.
So what ever happened to the slic3r or cura printer settings video? you said you would do that next but I cant see it ;)
Oh I watched that, but thought that was purely for PLA not ABS. So I guess its the same but with a 90C bed and 210 on the nozzle?
Also, did you have an issue at first (with both Cura and Slic3r) where it hits the print bed when it starts a print?
PS: Fluff is my other account
Thank you, I actually totally forgot its just G code, So my work around is to set G0 F9000 x0 y0 z5 before it moves the X and Y axis before layer 1.
For reference, I added this line here...
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F9000 x0 y0 z5
G0 F9000 X98.897 Y17.632 Z0.300
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1800 X99.181 Y16.031 E0.08112
so everytime i click home the motors make a wierd noise is it due to missalignment ?
Hey I'm Max clemens and I just built a 3D printer and I saw that you had cura slicer and cool setting on it how did you get that because I've hear the it's a better slicer you you had it on the screen at the start of the vid so I just want to know how to get cura slicer on repiteir host pls
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products chuck can you do more with the stock da vici 1.0 I need some more tips and I know repiter is hard to upgrade to and it avoids my warranty so do you think you can do more with the stock da vici?
+Ryan Mayfield You have FAR more control, and options in supplies, with a Repetier-flashed Da Vinci, Ryan.
If you're not comfortable doing it, you shouldn't do it until you know that it's right for you. When it's time, you'll know. ;)
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Yup, both Cura and Slic3r are included within the Repetier package, and integrated into the interface.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products so you said it was a part of the installation package and i only got slic3r and skeinforge
thanks
Hi Do You have the IDE in Arduino to flash the Davinci 1.0
Sorry, I got rid of this printer a long time ago.
How did you flash the printer?
hey chuck i just got my davinci about 2 months ago and it ran great out of the box. sadly today i came home to the y motor harness being broken :(, any suggestions on how to fix it? +Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products, hey i watched the video and it gave me some helpful hints, i still cannot seem to find the problem though. I just really want to get back to printing :(
all of the harness wires passed, i found out that the one of X motor senor wires, (the reds ones) had no continuity. Do you think that could be it?
*****
ok, i will pick up some heat shrink tubing and solder. when i fix that wires continuity i will update you on the condition *****
Hey Chuck ***** I fixed it! Thank you so much for the help, if there is anyway i could donate to you that would be great
Hey Chuck i just got my Da Vinci 1.0S AIO to work Repetier host whit no scanner but it works and do a good job thanks for you info
For MAC users ? Is total compatibility slicer & repetier to migrate it ?
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Even though Cura isn't in the Mac version of Repetier for some reason, you can download Cura separately, slice it there, and then put it back into Repetier.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I actually realized that I had been using the older version of Cura, and downloaded the new one. I couldn't figure out how to make the new Cura work for any printers other than the Ultimaker, so I switched back to the old Cura. I believe that repetier still uses the old Cura on PC too.
Thanks for the vid Chuck it really helped me out
I look for the firmware 9.2 repeteir for Arduino 1.5.8! please help me?old version
Thanks for sharing it with us...
It helps allot...
Can't believe I waited # years to "fix" my 1.0A. LOL Out checking out everyone's settings.
Welcome to the Dark Side, Chuck! :) Before you know it, you'll be upgrading your extruder and printing with more "exotic" filaments!
*****
I _always_ watch/thumbs-up your videos, Chuck! I enjoy your delivery, you check your ego before you hit record, and it's refreshing.
I meant to comment, what, a month ago on your switch?
I've been running Repetier since the day after getting my 1.0a - the stock system is fine for the average person, but being all techy-and-stuff, I didn't need to subsidize the printer with filament.
I just recently took the plunge on a new extruder, and there was a major learning-curve there! You're someone that could do that curve justice, so look forward to watching your migration regardless!
Can't wait to see what you do with NinjaFlex and SemiFlex - it's pretty awesome!
hey can u use flexible or strechy filameant for filameant friday
The stock extruder feed just chews up stretchy filament and one ends up with a mess that is VERY tough to clean up. There also isn't adequate cooling/heat sinking, which doesn't lend well to the flex plastics. in short: no.not without replacing ( or redesigning) the extruder.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I wasn't aware of that, good safety tip! I'm using the E3D v6 kit, with the tip that came with it. i have other tips but haven't tried them
+alynn333333 I am using davinci aio with a e3d hot end and it prints fine with tpu using the stock davinci extruder gears. Note the e3d has the same nozzle size as the davinci stock hot end ( same nozzle dimension .4). with the davinci and tpu you need to print slow but it is do able (although maybe only on a 1.0a sorta like pla) . I have seen some videos on youtube that show a unmodified davinci (other then the flash to repetier) printing tpu. To print ninja flex you need a layer fan, but it can be done on a stock hot end.TPU is actually a lot of fun to use and the inter layer adhesion is incredible. supports are an issue though as it wont break away. due to the interlayer adhesion you have to cut away supports. I should try the water hose one using the tpu. that could be fun.However with it being so flex able it is easy for it to "spit" out the filament to the side if you print to fast. the key is to print slow. don't go higher then 30 mm/s and that is pushing it. nice thing is if you are watching it closely you can pause the print and get the nozzle reflowing and then restart the print even if you missed a whole layer. like I said the inter layer adhesion is simply fantastic.I have used the tpu to print a lot of gopro mounts and extension arms, lens covers and other items that flexibility is key. Note tpu isn't good for things that need to be ridged, but is great for things you need to be flex able and durable. The gopro tpu mounts have to ues the "locking plug / antivibration" solution to stay in the clips since the arms are not stiff enf to not flex inward during use.
Simplify3d settings would be helpful. I'd prefer to use it over repetier software anyday
Hi Chep, need you help please
my repetier virtual bed is not align with the physical printer bed. where is the setting for this? ps i copied your setting
insert 38 for "bed left" and 12 for "bed front". This will account for the extruder dump bin.