Finally, a video that gets straight to the point, and doesn’t complicate the explanation for people who are not professional, polishers. Thank you for this video
Very useful tips! I am a fan of your channel. Would like to voice my support here. Unlike many American/European car detailing RUclips channels where they try to make simple things unnecessary complicated. I am talking 15-step wash and decontamination process followed by 10 step surface preparation and product trials using 3 different DA polishers with 20 different types of pads with 10 different types of compound/polishing/finishing/sealant/wax/top-coat etc. Took them like a week to completely detail only one car hahaha... This kind of complication has taken the joy of car detailing away. Your instructions just always keep things simple and easy to follow with minimal tools, chemicals and steps. Also, I guess that you are a kind of ROTARY man because you always use rotary. I grew up and start my car detailing practice from rotary and have always been using rotary. Contrary to today's popularity of the DA, a rotary always has a place in my heart. It just gets the job done effectively and easy. More fun to use than the DA, in my opinion. Do you have any videos on polishing the very soft paint? I have the World Rally Blue (Dark Blue) Subaru BRZ. Its paint is very soft and it is very hard to perfecting the paint without the hologram. Keep on publishing good videos! Thanks. (Sorry for very long comment)
HI Nikornvit, glad you found it useful. Off camera, Henry uses dual action polisher equally frequent as well. It all depends on the job at hand and there is always a best possible combination that is utilised by different detailers. On the soft paint, you may find the video here: ruclips.net/video/Z2BCAaczsmk/видео.html
Thats because they have product sponsors and they need to sell their products. In my shop I have only 2 sets od pads and performed more than 100 cars with the pad
I like how at the end you wiped away the oils of the product and said “i want to see if i actually got rid of the holograms and didn’t just cover them”. Every video I’ve seen they leave the polish on and show a before and after as if that matters..
I agree with almost everything you have shown in your video except the speed you move your machine across a panel. You still need to remove the swirls and holograms and moving quickly across a panel is not going to help you. All you will be doing is increasing your phisical effort and tiredness for no gain at all. You still need to cut the holograms out so a slow machine speed and a slow directional movement will be your winning algorithm. You still can use smaller buff pads as long as your pressure and pad speed is low. A bigger buff pad could introduce holograms again as the outside perimiter on a large buff pad will move much faster due to its larger circumference. It is a bit of a love dance between speed pressure, right pad softness and fine cutters to achieve perfection. Well done. Excellent video. I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
Hey folks, Henry and the Osren team, I would like to share my experience with a certain kind of swirls here, also I want to stress the meaning of this videoclip when we talk about removing swirls and thank Henry and the Osren team for providing me with tips and hints that really proved valuable for me! Maybe this text can help some of you guys sort out a kind of complicated issue and makes it a little clearer and easy to understand. Let’s get into it: Those swirls on my black Ford were driving me crazy. Whatever combination I tried and whatever technique I used (watch Osren videos regarding arm speed, amount of product, rpm and applied pressure that influence the cutting effect), I wasn’t able to remove them. Just to be complete, I want to mention that I used only good quality products and pads and with 2+ years experience in cutting and polishing, I am not a super pro but also not a beginner. And I don’t have a DA, only a rotary and didn’t want to invest because it’s my private car and no profits involved... Those swirls were of the kind that you couldn’t see them in the shade or indoors at all. But you were able to see them very obviously in bright sunlight and it was ugly I can tell you. I fixed a lot of extra light with plenty of bright LED tubes and all that in order to see them when I work and to check the results, but no. And I want to mention that I live in Thailand, so once the sun comes out, the light it is super bright. Means those swirls are really almost undetectable but I saw them regularly and I hated them because I tried to remove them for months and I failed. When I saw the clip and talked to Henry (many thanks for taking the time to reply!), he guessed already that those swirls were very light swirls, not deep and recommended a downgrade. I (as not-professional) tended to upgrade rather downgrading because it made more sense. Generally: I want to remove something and it can’t removed with a certain way or product, it makes sense to use something stronger, right? That’s common sense in general life I would say. But not in polishing. After that, I downgraded and again tried this and that combination but still not the desired results. I couldn’t believe anything anymore. Can you guys guess how I ended up? After I already kind of accepted that it’s impossible to remove them, I tried my machine polish and applied it by hand and a microfiber towel. And after 2 passes, I couldn’t believe my eyes: GONE! After that I tried a foam pad with the same machine polish that said „finishing pad, no cutting ability“ and: GONE In the end, after the polishing of every panel, I had to drive out into the sun to check the results. But it wasn’t an issue as long as I got my results! So the message of this text is: for certain kind of swirls, start with the less aggressive combination you have available. Possibly apply the product by hand first and check the results! It won’t do any harm. And after that work your way up. A personal add: it’s so satisfying to solve a frustrating problem by your own hands and brains (of course with certain help like the Osren team here) and to gain further knowledge and capabilities. Even this task was so challenging, I leaned a lot and I am happy and grateful to go through this -at first very very frustrating- experience. Good luck and plenty of success! Frank
@@lewis30ss91 right, least abrasive polish you can find, a finishing polish combined with a good quality, soft finishing foam. For very light swirls, work your way up, means start with the least abrasive combination and increase bit by bit. In case you want to invest a little, you could think about a DA polisher, which is less aggressive and hence better for this kind of very light scratches. My experiences with polishing confirm Henry’s statements absolutely. Very low level of abrasiveness, the less aggressive the better. In certain cases, one could perhaps add more swirls by using too strong combinations of polishes/pads. I think it happened to me before, too. I don’t think that compounds can do you any good related to swirl removal. You better leave that out, just too aggressive. That’s more for heavy oxidized paint, parked in the sun for years, very old paint or similar heavy cases. Good luck.
@@lewis30ss91 I am not really sure, depends on what is available where you live. At least for me -I live in Thailand- and most European brands ain’t available here. I can stick only to 3m. Don’t save there and do some research first. I guess Osren have good products for sale, Sonax is a German brand with good reputation. But as mentioned, not available for me...
I've watched loads of videos on buffing, cutting, polishing and hologram removal. But watching your demonstration nailed it for me. I was going to do a ceramic top sealant but a bit concerned because my super black paintwork had many holograms. I tried your method and bingo all the swirls and ghosting disappeared. I've now done the ceramic coating and it's pretty much perfect. Thanks again.
You are a great teacher. I just started mechanical polishing 2 days ago. Doing my boat. Your videos have helped me each time I get on the rotary. Thank you.
Great vid mate, really appreciate you taking the time out to share your knowledge. I’ve been detailing cars professionally for awhile now and your advice is spot on regarding soft paint and ensuring a perfect, hologram free finish (specially on darker cars). Keep up the good work!
I watch your video for the first time. and I really enjoyed the way of explaining. Such a relaxed display of work with the polisher has let me down. I'm not afraid to try
This was a very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us Henry! As always great and valuable information! ~Kelly from 🇨🇦
Thanks for your help!!! I have some Swirls and Holograms that were put on my New 2024 Toyota 4Runner by a Shop and now I need to buy a Polisher so I can try and correct the situation. This is a great video!!!
I had to edit...Great video! I had a black car kicking my butt and your advice worked perfectly! Thank you. Made the job faster with better results as well.
Great video! I have one Rotary polisher and one DA polisher. I was afraid of using the rotary before, but after this video I only use the rotary. I get the paint more shiny and save a lot of time.
Hi just seen your channel and WOW they are so informative for the beginner like me the more tips the better your channel is the best i have seen so far
Do a boat, gelcoat (oxidized) leave no swirls. Nice video. Usually I find "car guys" like drama in their work. Many pads, many products... You like 1 of each and have (unlike most) learned how best to use them. 👍🏻
i was about to buy an expensive da polisher until i found this, this has gained my confidence and has helped me and did a perfect work on my car thanks alot!!!
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Hey Drayton! It’s a tricky question but if you can connect with us on Facebook and send us some pictures, we could better advice. Alternatively the general rule is to run your nails across the scratch, if it catches, is too deep. Also, what type of pads do you use with the compounds / polishes you mentioned ?
@@OSRENOfficial Hey thanks for the reply. Sorry I edited my comment lol. I will definitely connect with you on Facebook. I really want to improve my detailing skills. I am using Hex Logic 4 inch pads. Orange then white.
Hello, I am writing to you from El Salvador, Central America. Your videos are very good to the point that I already ordered my hitachi rotary. I try to understand English with difficulty. I would like all your videos to be subtitled in Spanish, since I think you are a good teacher and it doesn't complicate things so much hugs friend
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and glad you found the informations helpful! Also thanks for the suggestion to have the videos in Spanish subs, it would definitely benefit more viewers.
Great deal this clip. It just hits the point. Had to smile almost throughout the whole clip because I observed the exact same things before I watched this clip and was confused like crazy. The hard thing to understand is why less aggressive can remove more defects. That doesn’t make sense, at least for swirl marks. Holograms yes. Once you experience it and think about it thoroughly and you will get behind it....
Great choice in using the Hitachi SP18VA rotary polisher it is lighter than the Mikita 9227C and Dewalt DW849, only the more expensive Metabo PE12-175 is lighter. Great tip on pad sizes as an aggressiveness factor !
I've been polishing for 30 years....nice to still see someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, it's becoming a lost art because it's harder to master.
Hey iam smiley! Yea, the rotary has quite a steep learning curve, hence half of our channel has been talking about it hopefully to encourage more people to detail and use the rotary to correct paint. However I do think a Dual Action Polisher is a good stepping stone for Detailers to pick up the rotary. Before DAs were a thing, I used to teach people straight on with a rotary, quite challenging. Nowadays, I would guide beginners with a DA and the when they transit to the rotary it becomes easier (at least, to handle and keep it flat haha) Where are you from by the way?
Been buffing in a professional body shop for years with a rotary polisher, have never encountered this problem. I feel like pad choice and compound is crucial, plus somtimes you cant be scared to put alil heat on it. the clear on these new cars now days can take quite abit before ever getting close to burning through.
Great job dude. I'm amazed by your efforts and professionalism. I'm planning to try with rotary to remove some light swirls from my VW paint. Could you tell me how much microns of CC will I remove with this particular technique? Thanks a lot.
Hey Branko, it's hard to tell how many exact microns will be removed by polishing or any form of polishing. But removing holograms will rotary is a very light burnishing process and does not come close to burning away excessive clear-coat, nor it is capable of removing scratches or deep swirls. It's the heavy compounding that anyone should be more worried about as usually, these are the cuttings that will burn paint or thin clear coat. Therefore, good car care is always about preventing as many scratches and other defects as possible so one doesn't require heavy cutting every now and then.
Short and super helpful video . I’ve been playing around with paint correction and detailing last few here’s. I own and sell a lot of vehicles. Currently using a dewalt rotary with 3m perfect it compound/ finish and hex logic pads. I have a black Subaru with a ton of holograms I can’t get rid of. Going to switch to a black pad and try some of these methods.
Once you figure it out. It’s so satisfying to correct and finish with the rotary. Working my way down from 1200rpm to 900rpm I can almost finish everything with the flex battery rotary.
Thank you. Okay what else are you looking for? Like how do you know if the product broken down? How many passes or how long to you need to keep polishing.
Hey, great question. Each product may vary. For ours, we polish until it starts flashing, and the opaqueness of the polish abrasive starts to reduce. Paint can be clearly seen alongside the condition (more defects/less defects) best to read and follow the instructions on the label.
Hey Jimoh, you’ll need to use higher speed settings when you require more cutting action. Applying pressure can also assist in cutting. The keyword is contact, the faster it is or the heavier the pressure, the Polish + Pad combo has created contact with the surface hence giving more cutting. Too much contact however will cause heat buildup and the clear coat may soften to a point that cutting becomes inefficient.
ORSEN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD - Really very informative and an illustration of why a rotary is NOT for beginners who have had no training and why DA's are a safer bet for weekend warriors : ) But you videos are superb for those who want to learn rotaries - really appreciate all your fine tips! Happy detailing !!
Now that was very educational and it will help me a lot! So what you used to remove the holograms was a polish? At low speed, low rpm, faster passes, not too much product and removing the oils to make sure the holograms are actually removed. Correct?
Yes. In essence, the goal we were trying to achieve is to reduce cutting/aggressiveness. The polish we used was the least aggressive polish we have in our range.
I use a rotary and microfiber with cutting compound to do the bulk as it's the most aggressive combo. After that I switch to a orbital polisher with foam and finishing comp. This is the fastest way for me and also leaves a spotless and haze free finish.
HI Dubb, usually the logical thing to do is wait for the paint to cure, or in many cases hardened enough in its top layer to be polished. The approach is similar, basically reducing cutting level accordingly using the combination mentioned in the video (techniques, pads, abrasive). However, there is a high probability that on a non-fully-cured paint, defects would reappear as heat from polishing actually softens the paint and defects would reappear once the heat has dissipated. Think of it has a non-fully cured paint would react to heat and changes its texture to somewhat soft-mellow fluid, thus masking the defects.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD buddy I sometime have to polish panels that have only been out the paint booth for an hour . If that cars going today it’s going today lol
Osren compound yang bagus, aku pengguna compound osren 50 dan 46 , pekerjaan jadi cepat, sayang diindonesia penjualan sangat tidak lengkap ,sukses selalu osren
Hahaha that ending!! Great stuff Henry! Can we apply the same techniques with a DA polisher to reduce DA hazing? Since the goal is to "reduce cutting". Thanks in advance!
Hi Kenneth. Yes the same principle applies to dual action polisher as well. In fact, I would say it is easier. However, with the usage of dual action polisher, more pressure and "negative" pressure doesn't really apply.
Thanks for the great info! How could i manage to do this without a polisher or a rotary? I have tried doing it with very little pressure with a meguiars applicator pad, but it still creates holograms, much finer ones.
Hi AceCZF696, It is very difficult to remove swirls and holograms by manual hand polishing. If you are creating more holograms by hand applicator pads, I have a feeling you might be scrubbing to hard. Would you be able to share us some pictures of your current condition? We might better advise you from there. You are welcomed to connect with us on Facebook facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
I bought a kit for my regular screwdriver drill and got it to work for my impact gun because I like it being wireless and I didn’t want to pay for a da polisher. The kit cost about 17 dollars on walmart like 20pc kit comes with drill attachment and applicator pads that stick on with velcro. It works good but I have halos now and it’s because I was pushing to hard or buffing too hard with my hand to remover the last bits of dried wax. I am going to redo it because I forgot to use my clay bar on that particular spot. I highly recommend using a clay bar first or you will be polishing over old dirt grime and wax which is a bad idea.
@@OSRENOfficial Well, I'm just getting into it honestly. A lot of questions I've had to research were e.g. microfiber vs foam, speeds, DA vs Rotary, I think for the most part a lot is already covered. It's hard to find good product comparison videos at times. I specifically was searching for foam on a rotary as most people tend to favor wool, and this video covered it wonderfully, and even taught me a thing or two (pad sizes and heat distribution/cutting power). The only reason I am even still slightly considering a rotary is how fast I see people doing correction work with them...a few passes with a wool pad and it's ready for polish. But it seems DA just finishes better. I'd like to see more videos about microfiber vs foam I suppose, and how they behave with different compounds and polishes, cutting and finishing microfiber pads. I plan to use a red foam meguiars cutting pad but I think compounding with microfiber would be just a little quicker and easier, on a DA. Thanks for the response! If I think of anything else as I go along I'll be sure to reach out!✌️
All good man! Generally cut level for microfibres are between the wool and most sort of foams. Well if budget allows, you would want to get a rotary as well as a DA. Too many types of paint works out there that really reacts differently to each combo
I am interested in applying ceremic coat for my car . I want to ensure adequate Bonding of the product with the paint after compounding ànd removing swirls and scratches. Do you have any suggestion ? After using the compound is it okay to use polish before applying ceremic ? Or should I avoid that step and apply any compound remover before applying ceremic coat ?
Hi Ganesharajah, ideally you want the paint to be as defect-free as much as possible. This may include compounding and polishing. Difference between compounding and polishing is that compounding usually is a more aggressive approach to cut more paint while polishing usually tends to refer to refining paint. Both are part of paint correction steps. Before applying coating to the car, it is best to clean and remove any oil or grease on paint. We use a mixture of IPA and water to remove it. Best to refer to the user manual in this aspect as different manufacturers have different practice or approach.
Hi. thanks for these helpful videos. I am on the verge of buying a Dewalt rotary. it comes with a 7 inch backing plate. My Question is, do i need to get a smaller backing plate(5 inch) to do a small car like Toyota Yaris/Suzuki Swift which have small panels, or a 7 inch backing plate will be okay too?
HI there! Most of the time, a 5" would be preferable as most modern cars are now with curvy panels. The beauty of it is that rotary polisher may enjoy the swapping of various backing plate to suit our needs. So there isn't really a "fixed" sets of backing plate you would need. But I would usually suggest having the 5" and 3" to start things off.
The Dewalt DW849 is the heaviest of all the rotary polishers, hope you have a strong arm ! ...LoL The 7" backplate is for those awful 8" wool pads. A 4" backplate with a 5" foam pad or a 5" backplate with a 6" foam pad is your best choice.
Thanks guys for the advice. My arms are kinda weak but i think I'll manage lol The holograms look like such a nuissance to remove. Will the car get holograms if you use medium foam pad with a one-step polish? or do they only show up when you are cutting with wool pad/aggressive compound? I'm beginning to feel like i'd be better off getting DA instead to avoid the hustle.
If you have no experience with a rotary then get yourself a DA. You will get great results 99% of the time with a DA and only a 30/70 chance with a rotary if you do not have experience with a rotary. Using a rotary requires skills and at least 10-15 years of field experience. Holograms usually show up from day one on a new car if the dealership prep did not know what they are doing. Most dealerships hire carwash kids off the street and give them a rotary with the wrong pads and products with no training and is what we call in detailing the "Dealer Installed Swirls" option. I suggest you get yourself a DA with a yellow cutting pad and 2-3 white polishing pads and a polish like Meguair's M205. A white polishing pad with a "Swirl Remover" like M205 is normally a good enough finish for most light and dark color cars followed by a no nonsense LSP like Collinite 845IW or Finish Kare 1000P. AIOs are "Jack of All Trade and Master of None" products great once your car's paint is well maintained, but will be a compromise between a good polish and good sealant/wax.
Hey Robear Le, thanks for watching and commenting :) Yes we do ship to the America and few weeks from now, we’ll have a store in Amazon US carrying some of our compounds
I didn't see you use a cross hatch pattern when removing the holograms or cutting like I would with my standard rupes DA. What is the case when it comes to this? Also, do you find the results to be better with a rotary vs. a DA?
Hi Mark Thayne! Cross Hatch Pattern is a way to prime and dispense polish onto the working surface. Personally, as long as the polish are spread out evenly to the desired working surface, that’ll be good enough. So whether it is cross hatch or multiple dots or spreading polish like butter over bread, doesn’t make a difference as long as there is desired amount of polish on the working surface. too much polish might have a negative effect 1. Takes too long to breakdown 2. Cause too much cutting 3. Waste of product Too little around of polish 1. Not enough cutting 2. Not enough lubrication causing unwanted friction For me I would say it’s about balancing the amount of Polish against the Pad, which you can tell when you’re working on the surface. As for DA and Rotary, I will definitely use DA on super soft finicky paint. For hard paintwork, generally the rotary can get it done faster. To professional Detailers, I would always advice to have both machines because you never what type of paintwork you’ll be working on everyday.
Hi there, great video! I am working on a black Audi at present and I am getting some holograms with a DA. I thought I was doing everything correctly, ie used Rupes yellow pad, Sonax Perfect Finish compound, speed 5 on a Das pro 6 DA, 2x2 surface but still I was seeing holograms. I wonder if i did too many passes? Did 4-6. I was still seeing swirl marks under the light so I thought I needed to run it more...could it be that I was adding them and hence getting the holograms as well? Any advice is appreciated....newbie in using a DA
Hey Declan! So based on the information I gather from you, I would assume some of the following possibilities 1. DA usually does not leave behind swirls but it is possible for DA to leave DA Haze. More detailed information about the difference of swirls here osren.com/blog/?p=357 So if it is DA swirls, you would need to step down or use a less aggressive combination 2. You might not be removing the existing swirl marks to begin with. If so, you would need to use a more aggressive combinations 3. On certain delicate paints you might inflict marring upon clearing up polish residue with MF towels and under certain lighting you might mistake that for swirls again. If so, you might wanna use a slightly damp towel instead of a dry, used or saturated ones. There could be other reason too. If you can Facebook message us, please send some photos of the condition you are facing and we’ll try to advise you from there
Is a rotory polisher better than a D.A. when working on large surfaces such as motorhomes? My Meguiar’s DA leaves a lot of swirl marks behind. Or do I need a larger DA?
Hey larry, it boils down to the combination of pads, polishers, and polish abrasives on that particular paint. Indeed rotary polisher may cut faster than a dual-action polisher. if you are not going for a perfect finish and time is of the essence, and don't mind some micro-swirls, then rotary can be a friend. (it's more challenging to finish to a defect-free finish with rotary, but it's possible on hard paint) If you wish to have a swirl-free finish and time is what you have, da would be a more straightforward tool. you may look at 21mm orbit as well on a da as surface coverage is larger as well.
Finally, a video that gets straight to the point, and doesn’t complicate the explanation for people who are not professional, polishers. Thank you for this video
Hey Mort, you are most welcomed and thanks for watching. Glad you liked it! 😃- Henry
Very useful tips! I am a fan of your channel. Would like to voice my support here.
Unlike many American/European car detailing RUclips channels where they try to make simple things unnecessary complicated. I am talking 15-step wash and decontamination process followed by 10 step surface preparation and product trials using 3 different DA polishers with 20 different types of pads with 10 different types of compound/polishing/finishing/sealant/wax/top-coat etc. Took them like a week to completely detail only one car hahaha... This kind of complication has taken the joy of car detailing away.
Your instructions just always keep things simple and easy to follow with minimal tools, chemicals and steps.
Also, I guess that you are a kind of ROTARY man because you always use rotary. I grew up and start my car detailing practice from rotary and have always been using rotary. Contrary to today's popularity of the DA, a rotary always has a place in my heart. It just gets the job done effectively and easy. More fun to use than the DA, in my opinion.
Do you have any videos on polishing the very soft paint? I have the World Rally Blue (Dark Blue) Subaru BRZ. Its paint is very soft and it is very hard to perfecting the paint without the hologram.
Keep on publishing good videos! Thanks. (Sorry for very long comment)
HI Nikornvit, glad you found it useful. Off camera, Henry uses dual action polisher equally frequent as well. It all depends on the job at hand and there is always a best possible combination that is utilised by different detailers.
On the soft paint, you may find the video here: ruclips.net/video/Z2BCAaczsmk/видео.html
Nikornvit Tulananda Can't agree with you more brother
Thats because they have product sponsors and they need to sell their products. In my shop I have only 2 sets od pads and performed more than 100 cars with the pad
I like how at the end you wiped away the oils of the product and said “i want to see if i actually got rid of the holograms and didn’t just cover them”. Every video I’ve seen they leave the polish on and show a before and after as if that matters..
If u know what u doing then do not need to use that alcohol thing... i polish without hologram anyway and not need to check... but brilliant video!
@@attilabodi6713 You are the best!
I agree with almost everything you have shown in your video except the speed you move your machine across a panel.
You still need to remove the swirls and holograms and moving quickly across a panel is not going to help you. All you will be doing is increasing your phisical effort and tiredness for no gain at all.
You still need to cut the holograms out so a slow machine speed and a slow directional movement will be your winning algorithm.
You still can use smaller buff pads as long as your pressure and pad speed is low. A bigger buff pad could introduce holograms again as the outside perimiter on a large buff pad will move much faster due to its larger circumference.
It is a bit of a love dance between speed pressure, right pad softness and fine cutters to achieve perfection. Well done. Excellent video. I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
Right.... But, he removed the holograms with his method!
Geat tutorial, everything explained very clearly, bravo
Your direct, down to earth and no bullshit attitude got you a subscriber. Thank you
Brother, thank you 🙏🏽 Your video got straight to the point with great insight. Very simple & informative.
Hey folks, Henry and the Osren team,
I would like to share my experience with a certain kind of swirls here, also I want to stress the meaning of this videoclip when we talk about removing swirls and thank Henry and the Osren team for providing me with tips and hints that really proved valuable for me!
Maybe this text can help some of you guys sort out a kind of complicated issue and makes it a little clearer and easy to understand.
Let’s get into it: Those swirls on my black Ford were driving me crazy. Whatever combination I tried and whatever technique I used (watch Osren videos regarding arm speed, amount of product, rpm and applied pressure that influence the cutting effect), I wasn’t able to remove them. Just to be complete, I want to mention that I used only good quality products and pads and with 2+ years experience in cutting and polishing, I am not a super pro but also not a beginner. And I don’t have a DA, only a rotary and didn’t want to invest because it’s my private car and no profits involved...
Those swirls were of the kind that you couldn’t see them in the shade or indoors at all. But you were able to see them very obviously in bright sunlight and it was ugly I can tell you. I fixed a lot of extra light with plenty of bright LED tubes and all that in order to see them when I work and to check the results, but no. And I want to mention that I live in Thailand, so once the sun comes out, the light it is super bright. Means those swirls are really almost undetectable but I saw them regularly and I hated them because I tried to remove them for months and I failed.
When I saw the clip and talked to Henry (many thanks for taking the time to reply!), he guessed already that those swirls were very light swirls, not deep and recommended a downgrade. I (as not-professional) tended to upgrade rather downgrading because it made more sense.
Generally: I want to remove something and it can’t removed with a certain way or product, it makes sense to use something stronger, right? That’s common sense in general life I would say. But not in polishing.
After that, I downgraded and again tried this and that combination but still not the desired results. I couldn’t believe anything anymore.
Can you guys guess how I ended up? After I already kind of accepted that it’s impossible to remove them, I tried my machine polish and applied it by hand and a microfiber towel. And after 2 passes, I couldn’t believe my eyes: GONE! After that I tried a foam pad with the same machine polish that said „finishing pad, no cutting ability“ and: GONE
In the end, after the polishing of every panel, I had to drive out into the sun to check the results. But it wasn’t an issue as long as I got my results!
So the message of this text is: for certain kind of swirls, start with the less aggressive combination you have available. Possibly apply the product by hand first and check the results! It won’t do any harm. And after that work your way up.
A personal add: it’s so satisfying to solve a frustrating problem by your own hands and brains (of course with certain help like the Osren team here) and to gain further knowledge and capabilities. Even this task was so challenging, I leaned a lot and I am happy and grateful to go through this -at first very very frustrating- experience.
Good luck and plenty of success!
Frank
@@lewis30ss91 right, least abrasive polish you can find, a finishing polish combined with a good quality, soft finishing foam. For very light swirls, work your way up, means start with the least abrasive combination and increase bit by bit. In case you want to invest a little, you could think about a DA polisher, which is less aggressive and hence better for this kind of very light scratches. My experiences with polishing confirm Henry’s statements absolutely. Very low level of abrasiveness, the less aggressive the better. In certain cases, one could perhaps add more swirls by using too strong combinations of polishes/pads. I think it happened to me before, too.
I don’t think that compounds can do you any good related to swirl removal. You better leave that out, just too aggressive. That’s more for heavy oxidized paint, parked in the sun for years, very old paint or similar heavy cases. Good luck.
@@lewis30ss91 I am not really sure, depends on what is available where you live. At least for me -I live in Thailand- and most European brands ain’t available here. I can stick only to 3m. Don’t save there and do some research first. I guess Osren have good products for sale, Sonax is a German brand with good reputation. But as mentioned, not available for me...
I've watched loads of videos on buffing, cutting, polishing and hologram removal.
But watching your demonstration nailed it for me.
I was going to do a ceramic top sealant but a bit concerned because my super black paintwork had many holograms.
I tried your method and bingo all the swirls and ghosting disappeared.
I've now done the ceramic coating and it's pretty much perfect. Thanks again.
Glad you found it useful!
You are a great teacher. I just started mechanical polishing 2 days ago. Doing my boat. Your videos have helped me each time I get on the rotary. Thank you.
That’s great, glad the video helped! You’re are most welcomed 😁
Great vid mate, really appreciate you taking the time out to share your knowledge. I’ve been detailing cars professionally for awhile now and your advice is spot on regarding soft paint and ensuring a perfect, hologram free finish (specially on darker cars). Keep up the good work!
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you !
Great video. Your vocabulary and English are excellent and your instructions are clear and to the point. Thanks for sharing.
I watch your video for the first time. and I really enjoyed the way of explaining. Such a relaxed display of work with the polisher has let me down. I'm not afraid to try
Glad this helped! Give it a try and let us know how it goes :D
Thank you. Finally got rid of the holograms dominating my drivers door. Lower speed on the DA and quicker passes is the way to go.
This was a very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us Henry! As always great and valuable information!
~Kelly from 🇨🇦
EXCELLENT!!!
Clear and comprehensive demonstrations with examples and explanation.
Thank you for the time for teaching us all and how to correct what we've messed up with our rotary polisher
Thanks for your help!!!
I have some Swirls and Holograms that were put on my New 2024 Toyota 4Runner by a Shop and now I need to buy a Polisher so I can try and correct the situation.
This is a great video!!!
Glad that we could help you!
I had to edit...Great video! I had a black car kicking my butt and your advice worked perfectly! Thank you. Made the job faster with better results as well.
Glad you found it useful and happy that it helped!
This was the most helpful video on the rotary polisher I've seen yet! Nice video man!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad you find it helpful *thumbs up
Great video! I have one Rotary polisher and one DA polisher. I was afraid of using the rotary before, but after this video I only use the rotary. I get the paint more shiny and save a lot of time.
Hi there! Glad to hear that 👍🏻. Keep up the good work :)
My favorite is the part about being less aggressive
Hi just seen your channel and WOW they are so informative for the beginner like me the more tips the better your channel is the best i have seen so far
Do a boat, gelcoat (oxidized) leave no swirls.
Nice video.
Usually I find "car guys" like drama in their work. Many pads, many products... You like 1 of each and have (unlike most) learned how best to use them. 👍🏻
i was about to buy an expensive da polisher until i found this, this has gained my confidence and has helped me and did a perfect work on my car thanks alot!!!
Most welcome!
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Your the man! Thank You! I learned more in one of your videos than days worth of the "Other Guys" videos.
Hey Drayton! It’s a tricky question but if you can connect with us on Facebook and send us some pictures, we could better advice. Alternatively the general rule is to run your nails across the scratch, if it catches, is too deep.
Also, what type of pads do you use with the compounds / polishes you mentioned ?
@@OSRENOfficial Hey thanks for the reply. Sorry I edited my comment lol. I will definitely connect with you on Facebook. I really want to improve my detailing skills. I am using Hex Logic 4 inch pads. Orange then white.
Haha no worries 👌🏻. Our facebook page is facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
Hello, I am writing to you from El Salvador, Central America. Your videos are very good to the point that I already ordered my hitachi rotary. I try to understand English with difficulty. I would like all your videos to be subtitled in Spanish, since I think you are a good teacher and it doesn't complicate things so much hugs friend
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and glad you found the informations helpful! Also thanks for the suggestion to have the videos in Spanish subs, it would definitely benefit more viewers.
Great deal this clip. It just hits the point.
Had to smile almost throughout the whole clip because I observed the exact same things before I watched this clip and was confused like crazy. The hard thing to understand is why less aggressive can remove more defects. That doesn’t make sense, at least for swirl marks. Holograms yes.
Once you experience it and think about it thoroughly and you will get behind it....
Dual action polishers are best well worth the money. Great information, thanks for sharing the tips.
I know this is an old video but I really appreciate it. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 😁
Very useful for me. Thank you for showing these tips!
Awesome tips and video! Well explained by demonstration , explanation and ilustrations. Nice work!
Great choice in using the Hitachi SP18VA rotary polisher it is lighter than the Mikita 9227C and Dewalt DW849, only the more expensive Metabo PE12-175 is lighter. Great tip on pad sizes as an aggressiveness factor !
I've been polishing for 30 years....nice to still see someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, it's becoming a lost art because it's harder to master.
Hey iam smiley! Yea, the rotary has quite a steep learning curve, hence half of our channel has been talking about it hopefully to encourage more people to detail and use the rotary to correct paint. However I do think a Dual Action Polisher is a good stepping stone for Detailers to pick up the rotary. Before DAs were a thing, I used to teach people straight on with a rotary, quite challenging. Nowadays, I would guide beginners with a DA and the when they transit to the rotary it becomes easier (at least, to handle and keep it flat haha)
Where are you from by the way?
@@OSRENOfficial I live in Canada :) I'd often use the older 12" DA to teach rookies but I mostly work on my own buying and selling vehicles now.
Great video, never seen anyone apply product to the paint and polish over it, everyone seems to apply direct to the pad. I’m gonna try this
Hey High Carb Rider, thanks for watching! Please try it out and let us know how it goes. :)
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD tried to today and worked a treat. I used a green Hex Logic pad and Menzerna super finish 3500 and the results were great. 👍
Glad it helped :)
You are the master of rotary
Been buffing in a professional body shop for years with a rotary polisher, have never encountered this problem. I feel like pad choice and compound is crucial, plus somtimes you cant be scared to put alil heat on it. the clear on these new cars now days can take quite abit before ever getting close to burning through.
Great job dude. I'm amazed by your efforts and professionalism. I'm planning to try with rotary to remove some light swirls from my VW paint. Could you tell me how much microns of CC will I remove with this particular technique? Thanks a lot.
Hey Branko, it's hard to tell how many exact microns will be removed by polishing or any form of polishing. But removing holograms will rotary is a very light burnishing process and does not come close to burning away excessive clear-coat, nor it is capable of removing scratches or deep swirls.
It's the heavy compounding that anyone should be more worried about as usually, these are the cuttings that will burn paint or thin clear coat. Therefore, good car care is always about preventing as many scratches and other defects as possible so one doesn't require heavy cutting every now and then.
Wow this solves the mess I created accidentally ! Appreciate the help. Cheers from 🇨🇦🇨🇦🍻🍻
Awesome explanation. It was almost like listening to Bruce lee explaining his fluidity in training.
Short and super helpful video . I’ve been playing around with paint correction and detailing last few here’s. I own and sell a lot of vehicles. Currently using a dewalt rotary with 3m perfect it compound/ finish and hex logic pads. I have a black Subaru with a ton of holograms I can’t get rid of. Going to switch to a black pad and try some of these methods.
Different manufacturers have different colors to go along with their pads. Just use one that is softer/softest. Hope you may get rid of it
from Ecuador Thank you .. excellent tutorial ...
This information has helped me a lot, and I give you my infinite respect! Thanks for Everything
Once you figure it out. It’s so satisfying to correct and finish with the rotary. Working my way down from 1200rpm to 900rpm I can almost finish everything with the flex battery rotary.
Thank you. Okay what else are you looking for? Like how do you know if the product broken down? How many passes or how long to you need to keep polishing.
Hey, great question.
Each product may vary. For ours, we polish until it starts flashing, and the opaqueness of the polish abrasive starts to reduce. Paint can be clearly seen alongside the condition (more defects/less defects)
best to read and follow the instructions on the label.
@@OSRENOfficial thanks again great content
well done for the analysis.when do we need to use the machine at it's highest speed
Hey Jimoh, you’ll need to use higher speed settings when you require more cutting action. Applying pressure can also assist in cutting. The keyword is contact, the faster it is or the heavier the pressure, the Polish + Pad combo has created contact with the surface hence giving more cutting. Too much contact however will cause heat buildup and the clear coat may soften to a point that cutting becomes inefficient.
thanks@@OSRENOfficial
ORSEN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD - Really very informative and an illustration of why a rotary is NOT for beginners who have had no training and why DA's are a safer bet for weekend warriors : ) But you videos are superb for those who want to learn rotaries - really appreciate all your fine tips! Happy detailing !!
Great explanation of technique. Thanks.
Thank you sir, it was very helpful & your explanation + demo was perfect
Exactly what I needed to see as I have similar color on my Subaru Forester XT. Thanks!
Now that was very educational and it will help me a lot! So what you used to remove the holograms was a polish? At low speed, low rpm, faster passes, not too much product and removing the oils to make sure the holograms are actually removed. Correct?
Yes. In essence, the goal we were trying to achieve is to reduce cutting/aggressiveness. The polish we used was the least aggressive polish we have in our range.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD thank you for replying. I thought this channel had gone quiet. Are you making any more videos Henry?
In post-production! Stay tuned!
These are invaluable tips!
Great video man!!
thanks! very encouraging!
Beautiful and Professional video man!
Rasanya saya kepengen kursus dengan beliau 😍😍😍
Thanks for sharing, your video really helpful to decide. By this video I can decide which polisher is suite me 😁
I use a rotary and microfiber with cutting compound to do the bulk as it's the most aggressive combo. After that I switch to a orbital polisher with foam and finishing comp. This is the fastest way for me and also leaves a spotless and haze free finish.
Another awesome how to video keep up the great job guys!!
Thank you!
BIG thank you - Old git, UK - on my Jag!
Thanks for your time.
Be less agressive! Lesson learned!
How would you approach removing holograms in a Bodyshop setting, like on fresh paint, after compounding? Thanks
HI Dubb, usually the logical thing to do is wait for the paint to cure, or in many cases hardened enough in its top layer to be polished.
The approach is similar, basically reducing cutting level accordingly using the combination mentioned in the video (techniques, pads, abrasive).
However, there is a high probability that on a non-fully-cured paint, defects would reappear as heat from polishing actually softens the paint and defects would reappear once the heat has dissipated. Think of it has a non-fully cured paint would react to heat and changes its texture to somewhat soft-mellow fluid, thus masking the defects.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD buddy I sometime have to polish panels that have only been out the paint booth for an hour . If that cars going today it’s going today lol
Can you do a video for NAO Clear 38. Trying to remove holograms after using CarPro reflect
Learned a lot ! thank you!
Awesome video, perfect explanation!
i only have a rotary and DA polisher are so expensive. thanks for teaching how to remove these defects
kurt avery - Try Harbor Freight.
Osren compound yang bagus, aku pengguna compound osren 50 dan 46 , pekerjaan jadi cepat, sayang diindonesia penjualan sangat tidak lengkap ,sukses selalu osren
I'm a fan of the video. Thank you
Good Video Boss ,it would be good to see wool pads on a rotary! Thanks brother !
Hahaha that ending!! Great stuff Henry! Can we apply the same techniques with a DA polisher to reduce DA hazing? Since the goal is to "reduce cutting". Thanks in advance!
Hi Kenneth. Yes the same principle applies to dual action polisher as well. In fact, I would say it is easier. However, with the usage of dual action polisher, more pressure and "negative" pressure doesn't really apply.
Thanks for the great info! How could i manage to do this without a polisher or a rotary? I have tried doing it with very little pressure with a meguiars applicator pad, but it still creates holograms, much finer ones.
Hi AceCZF696, It is very difficult to remove swirls and holograms by manual hand polishing. If you are creating more holograms by hand applicator pads, I have a feeling you might be scrubbing to hard. Would you be able to share us some pictures of your current condition? We might better advise you from there. You are welcomed to connect with us on Facebook facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
I bought a kit for my regular screwdriver drill and got it to work for my impact gun because I like it being wireless and I didn’t want to pay for a da polisher. The kit cost about 17 dollars on walmart like 20pc kit comes with drill attachment and applicator pads that stick on with velcro. It works good but I have halos now and it’s because I was pushing to hard or buffing too hard with my hand to remover the last bits of dried wax. I am going to redo it because I forgot to use my clay bar on that particular spot. I highly recommend using a clay bar first or you will be polishing over old dirt grime and wax which is a bad idea.
Very informative, thank you!👍🏼
Hello! Is it the same work with a DA machine?
Do you have any advice for Nissan GTR with Scratch Guard paint (flat black)? It's the worst paint to polish!!!
My dude! You're amazingly informative. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks a lot dude! Would there be any content about detailing that you would like to watch or know more?
@@OSRENOfficial Well, I'm just getting into it honestly. A lot of questions I've had to research were e.g. microfiber vs foam, speeds, DA vs Rotary, I think for the most part a lot is already covered. It's hard to find good product comparison videos at times. I specifically was searching for foam on a rotary as most people tend to favor wool, and this video covered it wonderfully, and even taught me a thing or two (pad sizes and heat distribution/cutting power). The only reason I am even still slightly considering a rotary is how fast I see people doing correction work with them...a few passes with a wool pad and it's ready for polish. But it seems DA just finishes better. I'd like to see more videos about microfiber vs foam I suppose, and how they behave with different compounds and polishes, cutting and finishing microfiber pads. I plan to use a red foam meguiars cutting pad but I think compounding with microfiber would be just a little quicker and easier, on a DA.
Thanks for the response! If I think of anything else as I go along I'll be sure to reach out!✌️
All good man! Generally cut level for microfibres are between the wool and most sort of foams. Well if budget allows, you would want to get a rotary as well as a DA. Too many types of paint works out there that really reacts differently to each combo
Right on with the seasoned pads but how about a microfiber buffing pad...?
Hey, rotary and microfibre pad, we find that it is not the best combination to polish. Microfibre are very well fitted with dual action polisher.
I am interested in applying ceremic coat for my car . I want to ensure adequate Bonding of the product with the paint after compounding ànd removing swirls and scratches.
Do you have any suggestion ?
After using the compound is it okay to use polish before applying ceremic ? Or should I avoid that step and apply any compound remover before applying ceremic coat ?
Hi Ganesharajah, ideally you want the paint to be as defect-free as much as possible. This may include compounding and polishing. Difference between compounding and polishing is that compounding usually is a more aggressive approach to cut more paint while polishing usually tends to refer to refining paint. Both are part of paint correction steps.
Before applying coating to the car, it is best to clean and remove any oil or grease on paint. We use a mixture of IPA and water to remove it. Best to refer to the user manual in this aspect as different manufacturers have different practice or approach.
@@OSRENOfficial
Thanks a lot 😊
Great video. Well done.
Hi. thanks for these helpful videos. I am on the verge of buying a Dewalt rotary. it comes with a 7 inch backing plate. My Question is, do i need to get a smaller backing plate(5 inch) to do a small car like Toyota Yaris/Suzuki Swift which have small panels, or a 7 inch backing plate will be okay too?
HI there!
Most of the time, a 5" would be preferable as most modern cars are now with curvy panels. The beauty of it is that rotary polisher may enjoy the swapping of various backing plate to suit our needs.
So there isn't really a "fixed" sets of backing plate you would need. But I would usually suggest having the 5" and 3" to start things off.
The Dewalt DW849 is the heaviest of all the rotary polishers, hope you have a strong arm ! ...LoL
The 7" backplate is for those awful 8" wool pads. A 4" backplate with a 5" foam pad or a 5" backplate with a 6" foam pad is your best choice.
Thanks guys for the advice. My arms are kinda weak but i think I'll manage lol The holograms look like such a nuissance to remove. Will the car get holograms if you use medium foam pad with a one-step polish? or do they only show up when you are cutting with wool pad/aggressive compound? I'm beginning to feel like i'd be better off getting DA instead to avoid the hustle.
If you have no experience with a rotary then get yourself a DA. You will get great results 99% of the time with a DA and only a 30/70 chance with a rotary if you do not have experience with a rotary. Using a rotary requires skills and at least 10-15 years of field experience. Holograms usually show up from day one on a new car if the dealership prep did not know what they are doing. Most dealerships hire carwash kids off the street and give them a rotary with the wrong pads and products with no training and is what we call in detailing the "Dealer Installed Swirls" option. I suggest you get yourself a DA with a yellow cutting pad and 2-3 white polishing pads and a polish like Meguair's M205. A white polishing pad with a "Swirl Remover" like M205 is normally a good enough finish for most light and dark color cars followed by a no nonsense LSP like Collinite 845IW or Finish Kare 1000P. AIOs are "Jack of All Trade and Master of None" products great once your car's paint is well maintained, but will be a compromise between a good polish and good sealant/wax.
The best on you tube!
thank you!
Great vid Sir.
Can u tell me what spray you use? And can I make it myself? Maybe crazy Question but really want to know. Thank you.
Hey, It's a solution consist of 50% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and 50% water
@OSRENOfficial will these techniques work the same with a DA polisher?
Good work
Great tutorial, finally one that's not done using a 1000 dollar rupes polisher
Thank you. Great explanation !
Thanks Diego, glad you find it helpful!
You have taught me many techniques, giving you love from california! Do you guys ship to America?
Hey Robear Le, thanks for watching and commenting :) Yes we do ship to the America and few weeks from now, we’ll have a store in Amazon US carrying some of our compounds
Great video! Thank you
Man this looks great.
I didn't see you use a cross hatch pattern when removing the holograms or cutting like I would with my standard rupes DA. What is the case when it comes to this? Also, do you find the results to be better with a rotary vs. a DA?
Hi Mark Thayne!
Cross Hatch Pattern is a way to prime and dispense polish onto the working surface. Personally, as long as the polish are spread out evenly to the desired working surface, that’ll be good enough. So whether it is cross hatch or multiple dots or spreading polish like butter over bread, doesn’t make a difference as long as there is desired amount of polish on the working surface.
too much polish might have a negative effect
1. Takes too long to breakdown
2. Cause too much cutting
3. Waste of product
Too little around of polish
1. Not enough cutting
2. Not enough lubrication causing unwanted friction
For me I would say it’s about balancing the amount of Polish against the Pad, which you can tell when you’re working on the surface.
As for DA and Rotary, I will definitely use DA on super soft finicky paint. For hard paintwork, generally the rotary can get it done faster. To professional Detailers, I would always advice to have both machines because you never what type of paintwork you’ll be working on everyday.
What brand product did you use for the hood demonstration in this video?
Hi Souly! I used a brand of compounds and polishes called OSREN. Here’s a link to the website of those products www.osren.com
Awesome video. Very informative
Glad you liked it
2 thumbs up for thia video! Thanks alot. Very helpful.
Awesome video, thank you for sharing knowledge
Hey Kris! You’re welcome and glad you find it helpful 😁
Great video bro , great tips thanks .
Hi there, great video! I am working on a black Audi at present and I am getting some holograms with a DA. I thought I was doing everything correctly, ie used Rupes yellow pad, Sonax Perfect Finish compound, speed 5 on a Das pro 6 DA, 2x2 surface but still I was seeing holograms. I wonder if i did too many passes? Did 4-6. I was still seeing swirl marks under the light so I thought I needed to run it more...could it be that I was adding them and hence getting the holograms as well? Any advice is appreciated....newbie in using a DA
Hey Declan! So based on the information I gather from you, I would assume some of the following possibilities
1. DA usually does not leave behind swirls but it is possible for DA to leave DA Haze. More detailed information about the difference of swirls here osren.com/blog/?p=357
So if it is DA swirls, you would need to step down or use a less aggressive combination
2. You might not be removing the existing swirl marks to begin with. If so, you would need to use a more aggressive combinations
3. On certain delicate paints you might inflict marring upon clearing up polish residue with MF towels and under certain lighting you might mistake that for swirls again. If so, you might wanna use a slightly damp towel instead of a dry, used or saturated ones.
There could be other reason too. If you can Facebook message us, please send some photos of the condition you are facing and we’ll try to advise you from there
Thanks, very helpful!
Great information and video, thank you!
Most welcome!
Is a rotory polisher better than a D.A. when working on large surfaces such as motorhomes? My Meguiar’s DA leaves a lot of swirl marks behind. Or do I need a larger DA?
Hey larry, it boils down to the combination of pads, polishers, and polish abrasives on that particular paint. Indeed rotary polisher may cut faster than a dual-action polisher. if you are not going for a perfect finish and time is of the essence, and don't mind some micro-swirls, then rotary can be a friend. (it's more challenging to finish to a defect-free finish with rotary, but it's possible on hard paint)
If you wish to have a swirl-free finish and time is what you have, da would be a more straightforward tool. you may look at 21mm orbit as well on a da as surface coverage is larger as well.
@@OSRENOfficial thanks. Is the Torqx 22 a good choice then?