Finally, a video that gets straight to the point, and doesn’t complicate the explanation for people who are not professional, polishers. Thank you for this video
Very useful tips! I am a fan of your channel. Would like to voice my support here. Unlike many American/European car detailing RUclips channels where they try to make simple things unnecessary complicated. I am talking 15-step wash and decontamination process followed by 10 step surface preparation and product trials using 3 different DA polishers with 20 different types of pads with 10 different types of compound/polishing/finishing/sealant/wax/top-coat etc. Took them like a week to completely detail only one car hahaha... This kind of complication has taken the joy of car detailing away. Your instructions just always keep things simple and easy to follow with minimal tools, chemicals and steps. Also, I guess that you are a kind of ROTARY man because you always use rotary. I grew up and start my car detailing practice from rotary and have always been using rotary. Contrary to today's popularity of the DA, a rotary always has a place in my heart. It just gets the job done effectively and easy. More fun to use than the DA, in my opinion. Do you have any videos on polishing the very soft paint? I have the World Rally Blue (Dark Blue) Subaru BRZ. Its paint is very soft and it is very hard to perfecting the paint without the hologram. Keep on publishing good videos! Thanks. (Sorry for very long comment)
HI Nikornvit, glad you found it useful. Off camera, Henry uses dual action polisher equally frequent as well. It all depends on the job at hand and there is always a best possible combination that is utilised by different detailers. On the soft paint, you may find the video here: ruclips.net/video/Z2BCAaczsmk/видео.html
Thats because they have product sponsors and they need to sell their products. In my shop I have only 2 sets od pads and performed more than 100 cars with the pad
I agree with almost everything you have shown in your video except the speed you move your machine across a panel. You still need to remove the swirls and holograms and moving quickly across a panel is not going to help you. All you will be doing is increasing your phisical effort and tiredness for no gain at all. You still need to cut the holograms out so a slow machine speed and a slow directional movement will be your winning algorithm. You still can use smaller buff pads as long as your pressure and pad speed is low. A bigger buff pad could introduce holograms again as the outside perimiter on a large buff pad will move much faster due to its larger circumference. It is a bit of a love dance between speed pressure, right pad softness and fine cutters to achieve perfection. Well done. Excellent video. I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
I like how at the end you wiped away the oils of the product and said “i want to see if i actually got rid of the holograms and didn’t just cover them”. Every video I’ve seen they leave the polish on and show a before and after as if that matters..
Hey folks, Henry and the Osren team, I would like to share my experience with a certain kind of swirls here, also I want to stress the meaning of this videoclip when we talk about removing swirls and thank Henry and the Osren team for providing me with tips and hints that really proved valuable for me! Maybe this text can help some of you guys sort out a kind of complicated issue and makes it a little clearer and easy to understand. Let’s get into it: Those swirls on my black Ford were driving me crazy. Whatever combination I tried and whatever technique I used (watch Osren videos regarding arm speed, amount of product, rpm and applied pressure that influence the cutting effect), I wasn’t able to remove them. Just to be complete, I want to mention that I used only good quality products and pads and with 2+ years experience in cutting and polishing, I am not a super pro but also not a beginner. And I don’t have a DA, only a rotary and didn’t want to invest because it’s my private car and no profits involved... Those swirls were of the kind that you couldn’t see them in the shade or indoors at all. But you were able to see them very obviously in bright sunlight and it was ugly I can tell you. I fixed a lot of extra light with plenty of bright LED tubes and all that in order to see them when I work and to check the results, but no. And I want to mention that I live in Thailand, so once the sun comes out, the light it is super bright. Means those swirls are really almost undetectable but I saw them regularly and I hated them because I tried to remove them for months and I failed. When I saw the clip and talked to Henry (many thanks for taking the time to reply!), he guessed already that those swirls were very light swirls, not deep and recommended a downgrade. I (as not-professional) tended to upgrade rather downgrading because it made more sense. Generally: I want to remove something and it can’t removed with a certain way or product, it makes sense to use something stronger, right? That’s common sense in general life I would say. But not in polishing. After that, I downgraded and again tried this and that combination but still not the desired results. I couldn’t believe anything anymore. Can you guys guess how I ended up? After I already kind of accepted that it’s impossible to remove them, I tried my machine polish and applied it by hand and a microfiber towel. And after 2 passes, I couldn’t believe my eyes: GONE! After that I tried a foam pad with the same machine polish that said „finishing pad, no cutting ability“ and: GONE In the end, after the polishing of every panel, I had to drive out into the sun to check the results. But it wasn’t an issue as long as I got my results! So the message of this text is: for certain kind of swirls, start with the less aggressive combination you have available. Possibly apply the product by hand first and check the results! It won’t do any harm. And after that work your way up. A personal add: it’s so satisfying to solve a frustrating problem by your own hands and brains (of course with certain help like the Osren team here) and to gain further knowledge and capabilities. Even this task was so challenging, I leaned a lot and I am happy and grateful to go through this -at first very very frustrating- experience. Good luck and plenty of success! Frank
@@lewis30ss91 right, least abrasive polish you can find, a finishing polish combined with a good quality, soft finishing foam. For very light swirls, work your way up, means start with the least abrasive combination and increase bit by bit. In case you want to invest a little, you could think about a DA polisher, which is less aggressive and hence better for this kind of very light scratches. My experiences with polishing confirm Henry’s statements absolutely. Very low level of abrasiveness, the less aggressive the better. In certain cases, one could perhaps add more swirls by using too strong combinations of polishes/pads. I think it happened to me before, too. I don’t think that compounds can do you any good related to swirl removal. You better leave that out, just too aggressive. That’s more for heavy oxidized paint, parked in the sun for years, very old paint or similar heavy cases. Good luck.
@@lewis30ss91 I am not really sure, depends on what is available where you live. At least for me -I live in Thailand- and most European brands ain’t available here. I can stick only to 3m. Don’t save there and do some research first. I guess Osren have good products for sale, Sonax is a German brand with good reputation. But as mentioned, not available for me...
I've watched loads of videos on buffing, cutting, polishing and hologram removal. But watching your demonstration nailed it for me. I was going to do a ceramic top sealant but a bit concerned because my super black paintwork had many holograms. I tried your method and bingo all the swirls and ghosting disappeared. I've now done the ceramic coating and it's pretty much perfect. Thanks again.
You are a great teacher. I just started mechanical polishing 2 days ago. Doing my boat. Your videos have helped me each time I get on the rotary. Thank you.
Great vid mate, really appreciate you taking the time out to share your knowledge. I’ve been detailing cars professionally for awhile now and your advice is spot on regarding soft paint and ensuring a perfect, hologram free finish (specially on darker cars). Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your help!!! I have some Swirls and Holograms that were put on my New 2024 Toyota 4Runner by a Shop and now I need to buy a Polisher so I can try and correct the situation. This is a great video!!!
I had to edit...Great video! I had a black car kicking my butt and your advice worked perfectly! Thank you. Made the job faster with better results as well.
I watch your video for the first time. and I really enjoyed the way of explaining. Such a relaxed display of work with the polisher has let me down. I'm not afraid to try
Great video! I have one Rotary polisher and one DA polisher. I was afraid of using the rotary before, but after this video I only use the rotary. I get the paint more shiny and save a lot of time.
I use a rotary and microfiber with cutting compound to do the bulk as it's the most aggressive combo. After that I switch to a orbital polisher with foam and finishing comp. This is the fastest way for me and also leaves a spotless and haze free finish.
Been buffing in a professional body shop for years with a rotary polisher, have never encountered this problem. I feel like pad choice and compound is crucial, plus somtimes you cant be scared to put alil heat on it. the clear on these new cars now days can take quite abit before ever getting close to burning through.
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Do a boat, gelcoat (oxidized) leave no swirls. Nice video. Usually I find "car guys" like drama in their work. Many pads, many products... You like 1 of each and have (unlike most) learned how best to use them. 👍🏻
Great deal this clip. It just hits the point. Had to smile almost throughout the whole clip because I observed the exact same things before I watched this clip and was confused like crazy. The hard thing to understand is why less aggressive can remove more defects. That doesn’t make sense, at least for swirl marks. Holograms yes. Once you experience it and think about it thoroughly and you will get behind it....
Hello, I am writing to you from El Salvador, Central America. Your videos are very good to the point that I already ordered my hitachi rotary. I try to understand English with difficulty. I would like all your videos to be subtitled in Spanish, since I think you are a good teacher and it doesn't complicate things so much hugs friend
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and glad you found the informations helpful! Also thanks for the suggestion to have the videos in Spanish subs, it would definitely benefit more viewers.
i was about to buy an expensive da polisher until i found this, this has gained my confidence and has helped me and did a perfect work on my car thanks alot!!!
Hey Drayton! It’s a tricky question but if you can connect with us on Facebook and send us some pictures, we could better advice. Alternatively the general rule is to run your nails across the scratch, if it catches, is too deep. Also, what type of pads do you use with the compounds / polishes you mentioned ?
@@OSRENOfficial Hey thanks for the reply. Sorry I edited my comment lol. I will definitely connect with you on Facebook. I really want to improve my detailing skills. I am using Hex Logic 4 inch pads. Orange then white.
Hey Jimoh, you’ll need to use higher speed settings when you require more cutting action. Applying pressure can also assist in cutting. The keyword is contact, the faster it is or the heavier the pressure, the Polish + Pad combo has created contact with the surface hence giving more cutting. Too much contact however will cause heat buildup and the clear coat may soften to a point that cutting becomes inefficient.
This was a very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us Henry! As always great and valuable information! ~Kelly from 🇨🇦
Thank you. Okay what else are you looking for? Like how do you know if the product broken down? How many passes or how long to you need to keep polishing.
Hey, great question. Each product may vary. For ours, we polish until it starts flashing, and the opaqueness of the polish abrasive starts to reduce. Paint can be clearly seen alongside the condition (more defects/less defects) best to read and follow the instructions on the label.
Hi just seen your channel and WOW they are so informative for the beginner like me the more tips the better your channel is the best i have seen so far
Once you figure it out. It’s so satisfying to correct and finish with the rotary. Working my way down from 1200rpm to 900rpm I can almost finish everything with the flex battery rotary.
Great job dude. I'm amazed by your efforts and professionalism. I'm planning to try with rotary to remove some light swirls from my VW paint. Could you tell me how much microns of CC will I remove with this particular technique? Thanks a lot.
Hey Branko, it's hard to tell how many exact microns will be removed by polishing or any form of polishing. But removing holograms will rotary is a very light burnishing process and does not come close to burning away excessive clear-coat, nor it is capable of removing scratches or deep swirls. It's the heavy compounding that anyone should be more worried about as usually, these are the cuttings that will burn paint or thin clear coat. Therefore, good car care is always about preventing as many scratches and other defects as possible so one doesn't require heavy cutting every now and then.
Great choice in using the Hitachi SP18VA rotary polisher it is lighter than the Mikita 9227C and Dewalt DW849, only the more expensive Metabo PE12-175 is lighter. Great tip on pad sizes as an aggressiveness factor !
HI Dubb, usually the logical thing to do is wait for the paint to cure, or in many cases hardened enough in its top layer to be polished. The approach is similar, basically reducing cutting level accordingly using the combination mentioned in the video (techniques, pads, abrasive). However, there is a high probability that on a non-fully-cured paint, defects would reappear as heat from polishing actually softens the paint and defects would reappear once the heat has dissipated. Think of it has a non-fully cured paint would react to heat and changes its texture to somewhat soft-mellow fluid, thus masking the defects.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD buddy I sometime have to polish panels that have only been out the paint booth for an hour . If that cars going today it’s going today lol
Hi claudia, holograms are basically very refined swirls, so sometimes it's unavoidable after compounding with a rotary. We prefer following up with a polish on a da for easier finishing. However this video is meant for those who does not have access to a da and hopefully this can be of help.
@@OSRENOfficial Thank you so so much! I've got a DA to do the flatter sections of the car and a little rotary to do the tight areas so I'm hoping being very gentle will help me avoid holograms and I will definitely follow your advice and sincerely appreciate your help🙂
Short and super helpful video . I’ve been playing around with paint correction and detailing last few here’s. I own and sell a lot of vehicles. Currently using a dewalt rotary with 3m perfect it compound/ finish and hex logic pads. I have a black Subaru with a ton of holograms I can’t get rid of. Going to switch to a black pad and try some of these methods.
I've been polishing for 30 years....nice to still see someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, it's becoming a lost art because it's harder to master.
Hey iam smiley! Yea, the rotary has quite a steep learning curve, hence half of our channel has been talking about it hopefully to encourage more people to detail and use the rotary to correct paint. However I do think a Dual Action Polisher is a good stepping stone for Detailers to pick up the rotary. Before DAs were a thing, I used to teach people straight on with a rotary, quite challenging. Nowadays, I would guide beginners with a DA and the when they transit to the rotary it becomes easier (at least, to handle and keep it flat haha) Where are you from by the way?
Is a rotory polisher better than a D.A. when working on large surfaces such as motorhomes? My Meguiar’s DA leaves a lot of swirl marks behind. Or do I need a larger DA?
Hey larry, it boils down to the combination of pads, polishers, and polish abrasives on that particular paint. Indeed rotary polisher may cut faster than a dual-action polisher. if you are not going for a perfect finish and time is of the essence, and don't mind some micro-swirls, then rotary can be a friend. (it's more challenging to finish to a defect-free finish with rotary, but it's possible on hard paint) If you wish to have a swirl-free finish and time is what you have, da would be a more straightforward tool. you may look at 21mm orbit as well on a da as surface coverage is larger as well.
Osren compound yang bagus, aku pengguna compound osren 50 dan 46 , pekerjaan jadi cepat, sayang diindonesia penjualan sangat tidak lengkap ,sukses selalu osren
ORSEN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD - Really very informative and an illustration of why a rotary is NOT for beginners who have had no training and why DA's are a safer bet for weekend warriors : ) But you videos are superb for those who want to learn rotaries - really appreciate all your fine tips! Happy detailing !!
Now that was very educational and it will help me a lot! So what you used to remove the holograms was a polish? At low speed, low rpm, faster passes, not too much product and removing the oils to make sure the holograms are actually removed. Correct?
Yes. In essence, the goal we were trying to achieve is to reduce cutting/aggressiveness. The polish we used was the least aggressive polish we have in our range.
Can't speak on behalf of the paint, but give it a try.. Some paints are able to. If it's an extremely soft paint, chances are you might need a dual action polisher instead
I am interested in applying ceremic coat for my car . I want to ensure adequate Bonding of the product with the paint after compounding ànd removing swirls and scratches. Do you have any suggestion ? After using the compound is it okay to use polish before applying ceremic ? Or should I avoid that step and apply any compound remover before applying ceremic coat ?
Hi Ganesharajah, ideally you want the paint to be as defect-free as much as possible. This may include compounding and polishing. Difference between compounding and polishing is that compounding usually is a more aggressive approach to cut more paint while polishing usually tends to refer to refining paint. Both are part of paint correction steps. Before applying coating to the car, it is best to clean and remove any oil or grease on paint. We use a mixture of IPA and water to remove it. Best to refer to the user manual in this aspect as different manufacturers have different practice or approach.
Thanks for the great info! How could i manage to do this without a polisher or a rotary? I have tried doing it with very little pressure with a meguiars applicator pad, but it still creates holograms, much finer ones.
Hi AceCZF696, It is very difficult to remove swirls and holograms by manual hand polishing. If you are creating more holograms by hand applicator pads, I have a feeling you might be scrubbing to hard. Would you be able to share us some pictures of your current condition? We might better advise you from there. You are welcomed to connect with us on Facebook facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
I bought a kit for my regular screwdriver drill and got it to work for my impact gun because I like it being wireless and I didn’t want to pay for a da polisher. The kit cost about 17 dollars on walmart like 20pc kit comes with drill attachment and applicator pads that stick on with velcro. It works good but I have halos now and it’s because I was pushing to hard or buffing too hard with my hand to remover the last bits of dried wax. I am going to redo it because I forgot to use my clay bar on that particular spot. I highly recommend using a clay bar first or you will be polishing over old dirt grime and wax which is a bad idea.
Hey Gurvin, technically, it depends on how much cutting you require. The combination matters. machine, techniques, pads and abrasive. For compounding, we usually go for the nao compound 46 and nano blue wool to remove heavy swirls on hard paints. For polishing or refinement, depending on paint condition or hardness, we either use nao compound 46 or perfect cut 20 with a maroon polishing or black finishing foam to refine. The colored pads are OSREN pads. However, different manufacturer has different way of coloring and identifying their own pads.
I didn't see you use a cross hatch pattern when removing the holograms or cutting like I would with my standard rupes DA. What is the case when it comes to this? Also, do you find the results to be better with a rotary vs. a DA?
Hi Mark Thayne! Cross Hatch Pattern is a way to prime and dispense polish onto the working surface. Personally, as long as the polish are spread out evenly to the desired working surface, that’ll be good enough. So whether it is cross hatch or multiple dots or spreading polish like butter over bread, doesn’t make a difference as long as there is desired amount of polish on the working surface. too much polish might have a negative effect 1. Takes too long to breakdown 2. Cause too much cutting 3. Waste of product Too little around of polish 1. Not enough cutting 2. Not enough lubrication causing unwanted friction For me I would say it’s about balancing the amount of Polish against the Pad, which you can tell when you’re working on the surface. As for DA and Rotary, I will definitely use DA on super soft finicky paint. For hard paintwork, generally the rotary can get it done faster. To professional Detailers, I would always advice to have both machines because you never what type of paintwork you’ll be working on everyday.
Hi. thanks for these helpful videos. I am on the verge of buying a Dewalt rotary. it comes with a 7 inch backing plate. My Question is, do i need to get a smaller backing plate(5 inch) to do a small car like Toyota Yaris/Suzuki Swift which have small panels, or a 7 inch backing plate will be okay too?
HI there! Most of the time, a 5" would be preferable as most modern cars are now with curvy panels. The beauty of it is that rotary polisher may enjoy the swapping of various backing plate to suit our needs. So there isn't really a "fixed" sets of backing plate you would need. But I would usually suggest having the 5" and 3" to start things off.
The Dewalt DW849 is the heaviest of all the rotary polishers, hope you have a strong arm ! ...LoL The 7" backplate is for those awful 8" wool pads. A 4" backplate with a 5" foam pad or a 5" backplate with a 6" foam pad is your best choice.
Thanks guys for the advice. My arms are kinda weak but i think I'll manage lol The holograms look like such a nuissance to remove. Will the car get holograms if you use medium foam pad with a one-step polish? or do they only show up when you are cutting with wool pad/aggressive compound? I'm beginning to feel like i'd be better off getting DA instead to avoid the hustle.
If you have no experience with a rotary then get yourself a DA. You will get great results 99% of the time with a DA and only a 30/70 chance with a rotary if you do not have experience with a rotary. Using a rotary requires skills and at least 10-15 years of field experience. Holograms usually show up from day one on a new car if the dealership prep did not know what they are doing. Most dealerships hire carwash kids off the street and give them a rotary with the wrong pads and products with no training and is what we call in detailing the "Dealer Installed Swirls" option. I suggest you get yourself a DA with a yellow cutting pad and 2-3 white polishing pads and a polish like Meguair's M205. A white polishing pad with a "Swirl Remover" like M205 is normally a good enough finish for most light and dark color cars followed by a no nonsense LSP like Collinite 845IW or Finish Kare 1000P. AIOs are "Jack of All Trade and Master of None" products great once your car's paint is well maintained, but will be a compromise between a good polish and good sealant/wax.
Hey Anthony! Perfect 50 does abit more than 46, and 20. 46 and 20 has abit of dusts. Generally dust are either the clear coats being shaved off and also the compound abrasive used
Hi GospelGuy, It is actually painted dependant. Holograms are basically extremely fine swirls that alter the light reflection. It is more commonly found after compounding with a wool pad. In our experience, foam pads do create holograms as well. Ultimately it is about the defects that is left behind by cutting the paint.
Boss, i only have 1tool thats rotory My biggest Q is 1.would rotary finished better than DA? Clarity, deep, and finished crystal clear like better than DA? Same person, same pad and chemicals Or its not possible to finished better than DA? Thanks.
Hey Henry Dunant! There’s a possibility of the rotary to finish better than the DA and there is also a possibility if the DA to finish better than the rotary. It depends also on the paintwork you are working on
@@OSRENOfficial Hi Mr. Henry Ok noted, soft vs hard paint. right? I saw all ur vids =) After passed cutting process w/ orange pad lets say i got good result with minimal marring,less holograms etc Can i jump to red pad (waxing) etc to cover unperfection surface? Speed 1 and slow arm movement
Hmmm....... well, you can cover them up but after exposing to sun (heat) the polishing oils / wax might evaporate and the holograms will be revealed. If you’re gonna do a second step, might as well try to refine it further haha
@@OSRENOfficial yes, those tend to skip on me sometimes, I also have 3 inch foam pads I do not have an issue with keeping flat and because of that I think they work better
Hmm.... Well professionally, we are not to comment on other brands, but all I can say is do explore around. In general, if the pads are brand new, it may skip around, if the pad is too dense and the paintwork you’re trying to polish heats up easily it may skip around. Sometimes the polish (liquid) paired may be incompatible, may also cause skipping.
Hi Jay, it's extremely difficult to be consistent without the usage of any machine. It's akin to trying to cut a tree with a saw, not impossible, but simply not worth the effort.
Hey there, one short question: if we still see orange peel on the panel, is it correct that the clear coat is not that thin yet? so still in the safe zone? I am worried that I was too aggressive prior to watching this clip but I still have orange peel on my panels.
Hey Frank, if it's original paint, orange peel is a good indication of a good margin of clear coat. Unless it's a repainted paint with horrible workmanship, then it's different. In our latest video, we levelled an original paintwork that has orange peel with a dual action polisher with the nao leveler 56, the combination actually allow user to have more control with removal of clear coat with very consistent cutting. You can check it out here : ruclips.net/video/0ZMGqMqr1XM/видео.html
@@OSRENOfficial These days, everything is based on e-commerce in Thailand. The most popular websites are Lazada.co.th and shopee.co.th. Ali Baba is slowly coming up, but still very slow. Small shops mostly sell only local, cheap products. Try to make a comparison on those websites regarding the price. From what I know, there is only 3M and maguire‘s on the market, I mean serious international brands. There is a car repair chain, which has spreaded all over Thailand, called B-Quik. May be that could be interesting, too....
Hi there, great video! I am working on a black Audi at present and I am getting some holograms with a DA. I thought I was doing everything correctly, ie used Rupes yellow pad, Sonax Perfect Finish compound, speed 5 on a Das pro 6 DA, 2x2 surface but still I was seeing holograms. I wonder if i did too many passes? Did 4-6. I was still seeing swirl marks under the light so I thought I needed to run it more...could it be that I was adding them and hence getting the holograms as well? Any advice is appreciated....newbie in using a DA
Hey Declan! So based on the information I gather from you, I would assume some of the following possibilities 1. DA usually does not leave behind swirls but it is possible for DA to leave DA Haze. More detailed information about the difference of swirls here osren.com/blog/?p=357 So if it is DA swirls, you would need to step down or use a less aggressive combination 2. You might not be removing the existing swirl marks to begin with. If so, you would need to use a more aggressive combinations 3. On certain delicate paints you might inflict marring upon clearing up polish residue with MF towels and under certain lighting you might mistake that for swirls again. If so, you might wanna use a slightly damp towel instead of a dry, used or saturated ones. There could be other reason too. If you can Facebook message us, please send some photos of the condition you are facing and we’ll try to advise you from there
Hey Bohuslav, there are several possibilities that might affect the outcome. For start, i recommend the process of elimination, change different pad from different manufacturer, while it might all be black, different manufacturer might produce differently. Then move on to different polish abrasive. All while using the technique that is shown by Henry. It's not 100% but the idea is to minimise and get the best possible outcome. We just happen to be familiar with our own products.
Why does my machine polisher not stay flat on the surface like his. The pad sticks to the paint so i have to hold it at an angle and not flat on the paint?
Hey sparkz, in my early stage of polishing, this happened to me too. And I realise it is because of using too "grabby" pad or lack of liquid on my pad. The use of wool pad (with soft interface) or with a softer pad, this doesn't happen. A seasoned used pad helps to reduce this. Try switching combination of pad and if pad is new, try priming the pad at initial usage. There might be other reasons, but I found out that that new and grabby pads are often the most prevalent issue many are facing.
Hi 370gt Alej! I personally don’t own any wireless polishers but have tested out a couple, namely Milwaukee and Flex, they are good but I didn’t like the fat battery pack at the end of the handle. It’s cumbersome. But I think it’s just a matter of getting used to it and of course since you have no access to a socket, those are your best bet :)
Usually for foam pad, aggressive one is coarse to the touch. Try using your skin to feel it. Whereas, softer pads are delicate to the touch. Also more spongy
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD many thanks I’ve just ordered a vonhaus rotary and as I’ve never done it before I’m really worried about burning paint or making the paintwork look worse
Q Q yes I have , to be honest I think I was a bit nervous using the rotary , I got out the biggest ( as in length , not depth ) scratches , but there is still lot of slightly deeper scratches , but I was so worried about making the situation worse . Was happy for my first attempt .
Hi Christine, the paint before polishing would be cool to the touch. During the polishing, based on the combination of pad, abrasive and techniques used, heat would be minimal. I would say it warm to the touch but nowhere near hot. Usually the more aggressive the approach, the hotter it would be as more energy is converted into heat. This case, we want to minimise the cutting, hence usually less heat is produced.
Finally, a video that gets straight to the point, and doesn’t complicate the explanation for people who are not professional, polishers. Thank you for this video
Hey Mort, you are most welcomed and thanks for watching. Glad you liked it! 😃- Henry
Geat tutorial, everything explained very clearly, bravo
Very useful tips! I am a fan of your channel. Would like to voice my support here.
Unlike many American/European car detailing RUclips channels where they try to make simple things unnecessary complicated. I am talking 15-step wash and decontamination process followed by 10 step surface preparation and product trials using 3 different DA polishers with 20 different types of pads with 10 different types of compound/polishing/finishing/sealant/wax/top-coat etc. Took them like a week to completely detail only one car hahaha... This kind of complication has taken the joy of car detailing away.
Your instructions just always keep things simple and easy to follow with minimal tools, chemicals and steps.
Also, I guess that you are a kind of ROTARY man because you always use rotary. I grew up and start my car detailing practice from rotary and have always been using rotary. Contrary to today's popularity of the DA, a rotary always has a place in my heart. It just gets the job done effectively and easy. More fun to use than the DA, in my opinion.
Do you have any videos on polishing the very soft paint? I have the World Rally Blue (Dark Blue) Subaru BRZ. Its paint is very soft and it is very hard to perfecting the paint without the hologram.
Keep on publishing good videos! Thanks. (Sorry for very long comment)
HI Nikornvit, glad you found it useful. Off camera, Henry uses dual action polisher equally frequent as well. It all depends on the job at hand and there is always a best possible combination that is utilised by different detailers.
On the soft paint, you may find the video here: ruclips.net/video/Z2BCAaczsmk/видео.html
Nikornvit Tulananda Can't agree with you more brother
Thats because they have product sponsors and they need to sell their products. In my shop I have only 2 sets od pads and performed more than 100 cars with the pad
I agree with almost everything you have shown in your video except the speed you move your machine across a panel.
You still need to remove the swirls and holograms and moving quickly across a panel is not going to help you. All you will be doing is increasing your phisical effort and tiredness for no gain at all.
You still need to cut the holograms out so a slow machine speed and a slow directional movement will be your winning algorithm.
You still can use smaller buff pads as long as your pressure and pad speed is low. A bigger buff pad could introduce holograms again as the outside perimiter on a large buff pad will move much faster due to its larger circumference.
It is a bit of a love dance between speed pressure, right pad softness and fine cutters to achieve perfection. Well done. Excellent video. I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
Right.... But, he removed the holograms with his method!
I like how at the end you wiped away the oils of the product and said “i want to see if i actually got rid of the holograms and didn’t just cover them”. Every video I’ve seen they leave the polish on and show a before and after as if that matters..
If u know what u doing then do not need to use that alcohol thing... i polish without hologram anyway and not need to check... but brilliant video!
@@attilabodi6713 You are the best!
Hey folks, Henry and the Osren team,
I would like to share my experience with a certain kind of swirls here, also I want to stress the meaning of this videoclip when we talk about removing swirls and thank Henry and the Osren team for providing me with tips and hints that really proved valuable for me!
Maybe this text can help some of you guys sort out a kind of complicated issue and makes it a little clearer and easy to understand.
Let’s get into it: Those swirls on my black Ford were driving me crazy. Whatever combination I tried and whatever technique I used (watch Osren videos regarding arm speed, amount of product, rpm and applied pressure that influence the cutting effect), I wasn’t able to remove them. Just to be complete, I want to mention that I used only good quality products and pads and with 2+ years experience in cutting and polishing, I am not a super pro but also not a beginner. And I don’t have a DA, only a rotary and didn’t want to invest because it’s my private car and no profits involved...
Those swirls were of the kind that you couldn’t see them in the shade or indoors at all. But you were able to see them very obviously in bright sunlight and it was ugly I can tell you. I fixed a lot of extra light with plenty of bright LED tubes and all that in order to see them when I work and to check the results, but no. And I want to mention that I live in Thailand, so once the sun comes out, the light it is super bright. Means those swirls are really almost undetectable but I saw them regularly and I hated them because I tried to remove them for months and I failed.
When I saw the clip and talked to Henry (many thanks for taking the time to reply!), he guessed already that those swirls were very light swirls, not deep and recommended a downgrade. I (as not-professional) tended to upgrade rather downgrading because it made more sense.
Generally: I want to remove something and it can’t removed with a certain way or product, it makes sense to use something stronger, right? That’s common sense in general life I would say. But not in polishing.
After that, I downgraded and again tried this and that combination but still not the desired results. I couldn’t believe anything anymore.
Can you guys guess how I ended up? After I already kind of accepted that it’s impossible to remove them, I tried my machine polish and applied it by hand and a microfiber towel. And after 2 passes, I couldn’t believe my eyes: GONE! After that I tried a foam pad with the same machine polish that said „finishing pad, no cutting ability“ and: GONE
In the end, after the polishing of every panel, I had to drive out into the sun to check the results. But it wasn’t an issue as long as I got my results!
So the message of this text is: for certain kind of swirls, start with the less aggressive combination you have available. Possibly apply the product by hand first and check the results! It won’t do any harm. And after that work your way up.
A personal add: it’s so satisfying to solve a frustrating problem by your own hands and brains (of course with certain help like the Osren team here) and to gain further knowledge and capabilities. Even this task was so challenging, I leaned a lot and I am happy and grateful to go through this -at first very very frustrating- experience.
Good luck and plenty of success!
Frank
@@lewis30ss91 right, least abrasive polish you can find, a finishing polish combined with a good quality, soft finishing foam. For very light swirls, work your way up, means start with the least abrasive combination and increase bit by bit. In case you want to invest a little, you could think about a DA polisher, which is less aggressive and hence better for this kind of very light scratches. My experiences with polishing confirm Henry’s statements absolutely. Very low level of abrasiveness, the less aggressive the better. In certain cases, one could perhaps add more swirls by using too strong combinations of polishes/pads. I think it happened to me before, too.
I don’t think that compounds can do you any good related to swirl removal. You better leave that out, just too aggressive. That’s more for heavy oxidized paint, parked in the sun for years, very old paint or similar heavy cases. Good luck.
@@lewis30ss91 I am not really sure, depends on what is available where you live. At least for me -I live in Thailand- and most European brands ain’t available here. I can stick only to 3m. Don’t save there and do some research first. I guess Osren have good products for sale, Sonax is a German brand with good reputation. But as mentioned, not available for me...
Brother, thank you 🙏🏽 Your video got straight to the point with great insight. Very simple & informative.
I've watched loads of videos on buffing, cutting, polishing and hologram removal.
But watching your demonstration nailed it for me.
I was going to do a ceramic top sealant but a bit concerned because my super black paintwork had many holograms.
I tried your method and bingo all the swirls and ghosting disappeared.
I've now done the ceramic coating and it's pretty much perfect. Thanks again.
Glad you found it useful!
Your direct, down to earth and no bullshit attitude got you a subscriber. Thank you
Thank you. Finally got rid of the holograms dominating my drivers door. Lower speed on the DA and quicker passes is the way to go.
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you !
You are a great teacher. I just started mechanical polishing 2 days ago. Doing my boat. Your videos have helped me each time I get on the rotary. Thank you.
That’s great, glad the video helped! You’re are most welcomed 😁
Great vid mate, really appreciate you taking the time out to share your knowledge. I’ve been detailing cars professionally for awhile now and your advice is spot on regarding soft paint and ensuring a perfect, hologram free finish (specially on darker cars). Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your help!!!
I have some Swirls and Holograms that were put on my New 2024 Toyota 4Runner by a Shop and now I need to buy a Polisher so I can try and correct the situation.
This is a great video!!!
Glad that we could help you!
I had to edit...Great video! I had a black car kicking my butt and your advice worked perfectly! Thank you. Made the job faster with better results as well.
Glad you found it useful and happy that it helped!
I watch your video for the first time. and I really enjoyed the way of explaining. Such a relaxed display of work with the polisher has let me down. I'm not afraid to try
Glad this helped! Give it a try and let us know how it goes :D
Great video. Your vocabulary and English are excellent and your instructions are clear and to the point. Thanks for sharing.
Great video! I have one Rotary polisher and one DA polisher. I was afraid of using the rotary before, but after this video I only use the rotary. I get the paint more shiny and save a lot of time.
Hi there! Glad to hear that 👍🏻. Keep up the good work :)
I use a rotary and microfiber with cutting compound to do the bulk as it's the most aggressive combo. After that I switch to a orbital polisher with foam and finishing comp. This is the fastest way for me and also leaves a spotless and haze free finish.
Been buffing in a professional body shop for years with a rotary polisher, have never encountered this problem. I feel like pad choice and compound is crucial, plus somtimes you cant be scared to put alil heat on it. the clear on these new cars now days can take quite abit before ever getting close to burning through.
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Do a boat, gelcoat (oxidized) leave no swirls.
Nice video.
Usually I find "car guys" like drama in their work. Many pads, many products... You like 1 of each and have (unlike most) learned how best to use them. 👍🏻
Great deal this clip. It just hits the point.
Had to smile almost throughout the whole clip because I observed the exact same things before I watched this clip and was confused like crazy. The hard thing to understand is why less aggressive can remove more defects. That doesn’t make sense, at least for swirl marks. Holograms yes.
Once you experience it and think about it thoroughly and you will get behind it....
Hello, I am writing to you from El Salvador, Central America. Your videos are very good to the point that I already ordered my hitachi rotary. I try to understand English with difficulty. I would like all your videos to be subtitled in Spanish, since I think you are a good teacher and it doesn't complicate things so much hugs friend
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and glad you found the informations helpful! Also thanks for the suggestion to have the videos in Spanish subs, it would definitely benefit more viewers.
Can you do a video for NAO Clear 38. Trying to remove holograms after using CarPro reflect
This was the most helpful video on the rotary polisher I've seen yet! Nice video man!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad you find it helpful *thumbs up
i was about to buy an expensive da polisher until i found this, this has gained my confidence and has helped me and did a perfect work on my car thanks alot!!!
Most welcome!
Your the man! Thank You! I learned more in one of your videos than days worth of the "Other Guys" videos.
Hey Drayton! It’s a tricky question but if you can connect with us on Facebook and send us some pictures, we could better advice. Alternatively the general rule is to run your nails across the scratch, if it catches, is too deep.
Also, what type of pads do you use with the compounds / polishes you mentioned ?
@@OSRENOfficial Hey thanks for the reply. Sorry I edited my comment lol. I will definitely connect with you on Facebook. I really want to improve my detailing skills. I am using Hex Logic 4 inch pads. Orange then white.
Haha no worries 👌🏻. Our facebook page is facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
well done for the analysis.when do we need to use the machine at it's highest speed
Hey Jimoh, you’ll need to use higher speed settings when you require more cutting action. Applying pressure can also assist in cutting. The keyword is contact, the faster it is or the heavier the pressure, the Polish + Pad combo has created contact with the surface hence giving more cutting. Too much contact however will cause heat buildup and the clear coat may soften to a point that cutting becomes inefficient.
thanks@@OSRENOfficial
This was a very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us Henry! As always great and valuable information!
~Kelly from 🇨🇦
Thank you. Okay what else are you looking for? Like how do you know if the product broken down? How many passes or how long to you need to keep polishing.
Hey, great question.
Each product may vary. For ours, we polish until it starts flashing, and the opaqueness of the polish abrasive starts to reduce. Paint can be clearly seen alongside the condition (more defects/less defects)
best to read and follow the instructions on the label.
@@OSRENOfficial thanks again great content
Hi just seen your channel and WOW they are so informative for the beginner like me the more tips the better your channel is the best i have seen so far
Once you figure it out. It’s so satisfying to correct and finish with the rotary. Working my way down from 1200rpm to 900rpm I can almost finish everything with the flex battery rotary.
EXCELLENT!!!
Clear and comprehensive demonstrations with examples and explanation.
Great job dude. I'm amazed by your efforts and professionalism. I'm planning to try with rotary to remove some light swirls from my VW paint. Could you tell me how much microns of CC will I remove with this particular technique? Thanks a lot.
Hey Branko, it's hard to tell how many exact microns will be removed by polishing or any form of polishing. But removing holograms will rotary is a very light burnishing process and does not come close to burning away excessive clear-coat, nor it is capable of removing scratches or deep swirls.
It's the heavy compounding that anyone should be more worried about as usually, these are the cuttings that will burn paint or thin clear coat. Therefore, good car care is always about preventing as many scratches and other defects as possible so one doesn't require heavy cutting every now and then.
Great choice in using the Hitachi SP18VA rotary polisher it is lighter than the Mikita 9227C and Dewalt DW849, only the more expensive Metabo PE12-175 is lighter. Great tip on pad sizes as an aggressiveness factor !
How would you approach removing holograms in a Bodyshop setting, like on fresh paint, after compounding? Thanks
HI Dubb, usually the logical thing to do is wait for the paint to cure, or in many cases hardened enough in its top layer to be polished.
The approach is similar, basically reducing cutting level accordingly using the combination mentioned in the video (techniques, pads, abrasive).
However, there is a high probability that on a non-fully-cured paint, defects would reappear as heat from polishing actually softens the paint and defects would reappear once the heat has dissipated. Think of it has a non-fully cured paint would react to heat and changes its texture to somewhat soft-mellow fluid, thus masking the defects.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD buddy I sometime have to polish panels that have only been out the paint booth for an hour . If that cars going today it’s going today lol
Thank you for the time for teaching us all and how to correct what we've messed up with our rotary polisher
Adored this 😊😊😊. Is this how you avoid holograms in the first place?
Hi claudia, holograms are basically very refined swirls, so sometimes it's unavoidable after compounding with a rotary.
We prefer following up with a polish on a da for easier finishing. However this video is meant for those who does not have access to a da and hopefully this can be of help.
@@OSRENOfficial Thank you so so much! I've got a DA to do the flatter sections of the car and a little rotary to do the tight areas so I'm hoping being very gentle will help me avoid holograms and I will definitely follow your advice and sincerely appreciate your help🙂
Short and super helpful video . I’ve been playing around with paint correction and detailing last few here’s. I own and sell a lot of vehicles. Currently using a dewalt rotary with 3m perfect it compound/ finish and hex logic pads. I have a black Subaru with a ton of holograms I can’t get rid of. Going to switch to a black pad and try some of these methods.
Different manufacturers have different colors to go along with their pads. Just use one that is softer/softest. Hope you may get rid of it
Hello! Is it the same work with a DA machine?
I've been polishing for 30 years....nice to still see someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, it's becoming a lost art because it's harder to master.
Hey iam smiley! Yea, the rotary has quite a steep learning curve, hence half of our channel has been talking about it hopefully to encourage more people to detail and use the rotary to correct paint. However I do think a Dual Action Polisher is a good stepping stone for Detailers to pick up the rotary. Before DAs were a thing, I used to teach people straight on with a rotary, quite challenging. Nowadays, I would guide beginners with a DA and the when they transit to the rotary it becomes easier (at least, to handle and keep it flat haha)
Where are you from by the way?
@@OSRENOfficial I live in Canada :) I'd often use the older 12" DA to teach rookies but I mostly work on my own buying and selling vehicles now.
Do you have any advice for Nissan GTR with Scratch Guard paint (flat black)? It's the worst paint to polish!!!
Great video, never seen anyone apply product to the paint and polish over it, everyone seems to apply direct to the pad. I’m gonna try this
Hey High Carb Rider, thanks for watching! Please try it out and let us know how it goes. :)
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD tried to today and worked a treat. I used a green Hex Logic pad and Menzerna super finish 3500 and the results were great. 👍
Glad it helped :)
Is a rotory polisher better than a D.A. when working on large surfaces such as motorhomes? My Meguiar’s DA leaves a lot of swirl marks behind. Or do I need a larger DA?
Hey larry, it boils down to the combination of pads, polishers, and polish abrasives on that particular paint. Indeed rotary polisher may cut faster than a dual-action polisher. if you are not going for a perfect finish and time is of the essence, and don't mind some micro-swirls, then rotary can be a friend. (it's more challenging to finish to a defect-free finish with rotary, but it's possible on hard paint)
If you wish to have a swirl-free finish and time is what you have, da would be a more straightforward tool. you may look at 21mm orbit as well on a da as surface coverage is larger as well.
@@OSRENOfficial thanks. Is the Torqx 22 a good choice then?
Rasanya saya kepengen kursus dengan beliau 😍😍😍
@OSRENOfficial will these techniques work the same with a DA polisher?
Dual action polishers are best well worth the money. Great information, thanks for sharing the tips.
Very useful for me. Thank you for showing these tips!
I know this is an old video but I really appreciate it. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 😁
What brand product did you use for the hood demonstration in this video?
Hi Souly! I used a brand of compounds and polishes called OSREN. Here’s a link to the website of those products www.osren.com
Osren compound yang bagus, aku pengguna compound osren 50 dan 46 , pekerjaan jadi cepat, sayang diindonesia penjualan sangat tidak lengkap ,sukses selalu osren
ORSEN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD - Really very informative and an illustration of why a rotary is NOT for beginners who have had no training and why DA's are a safer bet for weekend warriors : ) But you videos are superb for those who want to learn rotaries - really appreciate all your fine tips! Happy detailing !!
would a random orbit polishe be better
My favorite is the part about being less aggressive
Now that was very educational and it will help me a lot! So what you used to remove the holograms was a polish? At low speed, low rpm, faster passes, not too much product and removing the oils to make sure the holograms are actually removed. Correct?
Yes. In essence, the goal we were trying to achieve is to reduce cutting/aggressiveness. The polish we used was the least aggressive polish we have in our range.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD thank you for replying. I thought this channel had gone quiet. Are you making any more videos Henry?
In post-production! Stay tuned!
Right on with the seasoned pads but how about a microfiber buffing pad...?
Hey, rotary and microfibre pad, we find that it is not the best combination to polish. Microfibre are very well fitted with dual action polisher.
Can u tell me what spray you use? And can I make it myself? Maybe crazy Question but really want to know. Thank you.
Hey, It's a solution consist of 50% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and 50% water
Wow this solves the mess I created accidentally ! Appreciate the help. Cheers from 🇨🇦🇨🇦🍻🍻
Hi, would you be able to achieve that with a rotary polisher that only goes down to 1000rpm? Is 1000rpm safe on softer paint?
Can't speak on behalf of the paint, but give it a try.. Some paints are able to. If it's an extremely soft paint, chances are you might need a dual action polisher instead
I am interested in applying ceremic coat for my car . I want to ensure adequate Bonding of the product with the paint after compounding ànd removing swirls and scratches.
Do you have any suggestion ?
After using the compound is it okay to use polish before applying ceremic ? Or should I avoid that step and apply any compound remover before applying ceremic coat ?
Hi Ganesharajah, ideally you want the paint to be as defect-free as much as possible. This may include compounding and polishing. Difference between compounding and polishing is that compounding usually is a more aggressive approach to cut more paint while polishing usually tends to refer to refining paint. Both are part of paint correction steps.
Before applying coating to the car, it is best to clean and remove any oil or grease on paint. We use a mixture of IPA and water to remove it. Best to refer to the user manual in this aspect as different manufacturers have different practice or approach.
@@OSRENOfficial
Thanks a lot 😊
Backing plate and pad size?
Thanks for the great info! How could i manage to do this without a polisher or a rotary? I have tried doing it with very little pressure with a meguiars applicator pad, but it still creates holograms, much finer ones.
Hi AceCZF696, It is very difficult to remove swirls and holograms by manual hand polishing. If you are creating more holograms by hand applicator pads, I have a feeling you might be scrubbing to hard. Would you be able to share us some pictures of your current condition? We might better advise you from there. You are welcomed to connect with us on Facebook facebook.com/osrenmalaysia
I bought a kit for my regular screwdriver drill and got it to work for my impact gun because I like it being wireless and I didn’t want to pay for a da polisher. The kit cost about 17 dollars on walmart like 20pc kit comes with drill attachment and applicator pads that stick on with velcro. It works good but I have halos now and it’s because I was pushing to hard or buffing too hard with my hand to remover the last bits of dried wax. I am going to redo it because I forgot to use my clay bar on that particular spot. I highly recommend using a clay bar first or you will be polishing over old dirt grime and wax which is a bad idea.
Can I know what colour pad should I use for compound, polish & wax? I got a rotary polisher and don’t want to cause more scratch on my car
Hey Gurvin, technically, it depends on how much cutting you require. The combination matters. machine, techniques, pads and abrasive.
For compounding, we usually go for the nao compound 46 and nano blue wool to remove heavy swirls on hard paints.
For polishing or refinement, depending on paint condition or hardness, we either use nao compound 46 or perfect cut 20 with a maroon polishing or black finishing foam to refine.
The colored pads are OSREN pads. However, different manufacturer has different way of coloring and identifying their own pads.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD where can I buy your products?
@@gurvyn you may contact our sales team at sales@osren.com
Thanks for sharing, your video really helpful to decide. By this video I can decide which polisher is suite me 😁
I didn't see you use a cross hatch pattern when removing the holograms or cutting like I would with my standard rupes DA. What is the case when it comes to this? Also, do you find the results to be better with a rotary vs. a DA?
Hi Mark Thayne!
Cross Hatch Pattern is a way to prime and dispense polish onto the working surface. Personally, as long as the polish are spread out evenly to the desired working surface, that’ll be good enough. So whether it is cross hatch or multiple dots or spreading polish like butter over bread, doesn’t make a difference as long as there is desired amount of polish on the working surface.
too much polish might have a negative effect
1. Takes too long to breakdown
2. Cause too much cutting
3. Waste of product
Too little around of polish
1. Not enough cutting
2. Not enough lubrication causing unwanted friction
For me I would say it’s about balancing the amount of Polish against the Pad, which you can tell when you’re working on the surface.
As for DA and Rotary, I will definitely use DA on super soft finicky paint. For hard paintwork, generally the rotary can get it done faster. To professional Detailers, I would always advice to have both machines because you never what type of paintwork you’ll be working on everyday.
can we polish by hand?
Hi. thanks for these helpful videos. I am on the verge of buying a Dewalt rotary. it comes with a 7 inch backing plate. My Question is, do i need to get a smaller backing plate(5 inch) to do a small car like Toyota Yaris/Suzuki Swift which have small panels, or a 7 inch backing plate will be okay too?
HI there!
Most of the time, a 5" would be preferable as most modern cars are now with curvy panels. The beauty of it is that rotary polisher may enjoy the swapping of various backing plate to suit our needs.
So there isn't really a "fixed" sets of backing plate you would need. But I would usually suggest having the 5" and 3" to start things off.
The Dewalt DW849 is the heaviest of all the rotary polishers, hope you have a strong arm ! ...LoL
The 7" backplate is for those awful 8" wool pads. A 4" backplate with a 5" foam pad or a 5" backplate with a 6" foam pad is your best choice.
Thanks guys for the advice. My arms are kinda weak but i think I'll manage lol The holograms look like such a nuissance to remove. Will the car get holograms if you use medium foam pad with a one-step polish? or do they only show up when you are cutting with wool pad/aggressive compound? I'm beginning to feel like i'd be better off getting DA instead to avoid the hustle.
If you have no experience with a rotary then get yourself a DA. You will get great results 99% of the time with a DA and only a 30/70 chance with a rotary if you do not have experience with a rotary. Using a rotary requires skills and at least 10-15 years of field experience. Holograms usually show up from day one on a new car if the dealership prep did not know what they are doing. Most dealerships hire carwash kids off the street and give them a rotary with the wrong pads and products with no training and is what we call in detailing the "Dealer Installed Swirls" option. I suggest you get yourself a DA with a yellow cutting pad and 2-3 white polishing pads and a polish like Meguair's M205. A white polishing pad with a "Swirl Remover" like M205 is normally a good enough finish for most light and dark color cars followed by a no nonsense LSP like Collinite 845IW or Finish Kare 1000P. AIOs are "Jack of All Trade and Master of None" products great once your car's paint is well maintained, but will be a compromise between a good polish and good sealant/wax.
These are invaluable tips!
Great video man!!
thanks! very encouraging!
Just a quick question, does Perfect 50, NAO 46, and Perfect Cut 20 dust? I have compound and polishes that dust a lot and is driving me nut!
Also, I love your video!
Hey Anthony! Perfect 50 does abit more than 46, and 20. 46 and 20 has abit of dusts. Generally dust are either the clear coats being shaved off and also the compound abrasive used
@@OSRENOfficial THANK YOU!
Awesome tips and video! Well explained by demonstration , explanation and ilustrations. Nice work!
do the holograms only show up when using the more aggressive pads like wool, or even the light-cut foam and polishing foam pads will create holograms?
Hi GospelGuy, It is actually painted dependant. Holograms are basically extremely fine swirls that alter the light reflection. It is more commonly found after compounding with a wool pad. In our experience, foam pads do create holograms as well. Ultimately it is about the defects that is left behind by cutting the paint.
I see. Thanks for clarifying :)
Great explanation of technique. Thanks.
Thank you sir, it was very helpful & your explanation + demo was perfect
You are the master of rotary
from Ecuador Thank you .. excellent tutorial ...
Boss, i only have 1tool thats rotory
My biggest Q is
1.would rotary finished better than DA? Clarity, deep, and finished crystal clear like better than DA?
Same person, same pad and chemicals
Or its not possible to finished better than DA?
Thanks.
Hey Henry Dunant!
There’s a possibility of the rotary to finish better than the DA and there is also a possibility if the DA to finish better than the rotary.
It depends also on the paintwork you are working on
@@OSRENOfficial
Hi Mr. Henry
Ok noted, soft vs hard paint. right? I saw all ur vids =)
After passed cutting process w/ orange pad lets say i got good result with minimal marring,less holograms etc
Can i jump to red pad (waxing) etc to cover unperfection surface?
Speed 1 and slow arm movement
Hmmm....... well, you can cover them up but after exposing to sun (heat) the polishing oils / wax might evaporate and the holograms will be revealed. If you’re gonna do a second step, might as well try to refine it further haha
Thanks boss *cheers
Awesome explanation. It was almost like listening to Bruce lee explaining his fluidity in training.
Are those pads easier to keep flat than the 3M ones?
Hey Julio! Do you mean the wavy pads?
@@OSRENOfficial yes, those tend to skip on me sometimes, I also have 3 inch foam pads I do not have an issue with keeping flat and because of that I think they work better
Hmm.... Well professionally, we are not to comment on other brands, but all I can say is do explore around. In general, if the pads are brand new, it may skip around, if the pad is too dense and the paintwork you’re trying to polish heats up easily it may skip around. Sometimes the polish (liquid) paired may be incompatible, may also cause skipping.
Beautiful and Professional video man!
.i wantedt to know can we remove holograms by hand if i dont have DA or rotary
Hi Jay, it's extremely difficult to be consistent without the usage of any machine. It's akin to trying to cut a tree with a saw, not impossible, but simply not worth the effort.
i only have a rotary and DA polisher are so expensive. thanks for teaching how to remove these defects
kurt avery - Try Harbor Freight.
Hey there,
one short question: if we still see orange peel on the panel, is it correct that the clear coat is not that thin yet? so still in the safe zone?
I am worried that I was too aggressive prior to watching this clip but I still have orange peel on my panels.
Hey Frank, if it's original paint, orange peel is a good indication of a good margin of clear coat. Unless it's a repainted paint with horrible workmanship, then it's different.
In our latest video, we levelled an original paintwork that has orange peel with a dual action polisher with the nao leveler 56, the combination actually allow user to have more control with removal of clear coat with very consistent cutting.
You can check it out here : ruclips.net/video/0ZMGqMqr1XM/видео.html
@@OSRENOfficial
Thanks Henry,
do you sell your products in Thailand, too? I haven’t seen them here yet.
Erm....... we are still looking for a distributor to represent us in Thailand 😁. Do you have any recommendations? 😆
@@OSRENOfficial
These days, everything is based on e-commerce in Thailand. The most popular websites are Lazada.co.th and shopee.co.th. Ali Baba is slowly coming up, but still very slow. Small shops mostly sell only local, cheap products. Try to make a comparison on those websites regarding the price. From what I know, there is only 3M and maguire‘s on the market, I mean serious international brands. There is a car repair chain, which has spreaded all over Thailand, called B-Quik. May be that could be interesting, too....
This information has helped me a lot, and I give you my infinite respect! Thanks for Everything
Another awesome how to video keep up the great job guys!!
Thank you!
Be less agressive! Lesson learned!
Hi there, great video! I am working on a black Audi at present and I am getting some holograms with a DA. I thought I was doing everything correctly, ie used Rupes yellow pad, Sonax Perfect Finish compound, speed 5 on a Das pro 6 DA, 2x2 surface but still I was seeing holograms. I wonder if i did too many passes? Did 4-6. I was still seeing swirl marks under the light so I thought I needed to run it more...could it be that I was adding them and hence getting the holograms as well? Any advice is appreciated....newbie in using a DA
Hey Declan! So based on the information I gather from you, I would assume some of the following possibilities
1. DA usually does not leave behind swirls but it is possible for DA to leave DA Haze. More detailed information about the difference of swirls here osren.com/blog/?p=357
So if it is DA swirls, you would need to step down or use a less aggressive combination
2. You might not be removing the existing swirl marks to begin with. If so, you would need to use a more aggressive combinations
3. On certain delicate paints you might inflict marring upon clearing up polish residue with MF towels and under certain lighting you might mistake that for swirls again. If so, you might wanna use a slightly damp towel instead of a dry, used or saturated ones.
There could be other reason too. If you can Facebook message us, please send some photos of the condition you are facing and we’ll try to advise you from there
Very informative, thank you!👍🏼
BIG thank you - Old git, UK - on my Jag!
Are use a black pad with an ultra fine polish and I still have holograms all over it using a rotary. I need help
Hey Bohuslav, there are several possibilities that might affect the outcome. For start, i recommend the process of elimination, change different pad from different manufacturer, while it might all be black, different manufacturer might produce differently. Then move on to different polish abrasive.
All while using the technique that is shown by Henry. It's not 100% but the idea is to minimise and get the best possible outcome. We just happen to be familiar with our own products.
Learned a lot ! thank you!
Why does my machine polisher not stay flat on the surface like his. The pad sticks to the paint so i have to hold it at an angle and not flat on the paint?
Hey sparkz, in my early stage of polishing, this happened to me too. And I realise it is because of using too "grabby" pad or lack of liquid on my pad.
The use of wool pad (with soft interface) or with a softer pad, this doesn't happen. A seasoned used pad helps to reduce this. Try switching combination of pad and if pad is new, try priming the pad at initial usage.
There might be other reasons, but I found out that that new and grabby pads are often the most prevalent issue many are facing.
Exactly what I needed to see as I have similar color on my Subaru Forester XT. Thanks!
I'm a fan of the video. Thank you
when i use dewalt 849x why its always shaking , whats wrong? the pad or ?
Could be handling. Dry pads also will cause it to wobble. Do watch our video on handling the rotary polisher
ruclips.net/video/m3t_mjOu_90/видео.html
can u doo a video with the flex PE14-2 150 un action
Hey, I’m thinking about buying a wireless machine since I live in an apartment. Which one would you recommend?
Hi 370gt Alej! I personally don’t own any wireless polishers but have tested out a couple, namely Milwaukee and Flex, they are good but I didn’t like the fat battery pack at the end of the handle. It’s cumbersome. But I think it’s just a matter of getting used to it and of course since you have no access to a socket, those are your best bet :)
So more aggressive pad = more coarse looking ??? And the finishing pad will look more of a solid/ fine ??? Sorry as you can tell I’m very new to this
Usually for foam pad, aggressive one is coarse to the touch. Try using your skin to feel it. Whereas, softer pads are delicate to the touch. Also more spongy
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD many thanks I’ve just ordered a vonhaus rotary and as I’ve never done it before I’m really worried about burning paint or making the paintwork look worse
@@Algorithm347 have you tried it out yet?
Q Q yes I have , to be honest I think I was a bit nervous using the rotary , I got out the biggest ( as in length , not depth ) scratches , but there is still lot of slightly deeper scratches , but I was so worried about making the situation worse . Was happy for my first attempt .
@@Algorithm347 Good to hear, I'm thinking about trying it out as well. I'm nervous as well
Is the paint warm to the touch or still cool?
Hi Christine, the paint before polishing would be cool to the touch.
During the polishing, based on the combination of pad, abrasive and techniques used, heat would be minimal. I would say it warm to the touch but nowhere near hot. Usually the more aggressive the approach, the hotter it would be as more energy is converted into heat.
This case, we want to minimise the cutting, hence usually less heat is produced.
Awesome video, thank you for sharing knowledge
Hey Kris! You’re welcome and glad you find it helpful 😁