Making and Testing a Victorian Skincare Routine
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- Get your first purchase from Blueland for 15% off by clicking my link bit.ly/40FeXKS! Thanks again to Blueland for sponsoring this video.
⤠ SOURCES ⤟
Woodbury, William A. 1911. *Beauty Culture: A Practical Handbook on the Care of the Person, Designed for Both Professional and Private Use*. London: Fisher Unwin. archive.org/details/b28054520.
⤠ START YOUR HAND SEWING JOURNEY ⤟
📚 BOOK: “Make, Sew and Mend: Traditional Techniques to Sustainably Maintain and Refashion Your Clothes” linktr.ee/makesewandmend
🧵 SKILLSHARE CLASS: “Hand Sewing Basics: Working Wonders with Fabric, Needle & Thread”. To sign up for a free trial and take the class, visit skl.sh/bernadettebanner1
⤠ NEVER MISS AN UPDATE ⤟
📜 (FREE) NEWSLETTER www.bernadettebanner.co.uk/new...
📸 INSTAGRAM @bernadettebanner / bernadettebanner
♥️ PATREON / bernadettebanner
RESEARCH ASSISTANT | Heathcliff McLean
IG @mxheathcliff / mxheathcliff
EDITOR | @DannyBanner
IG @danbanstudio / danbanstudio
This channel is made possible through the generous support of Patreon members. On behalf of myself and the team: thank you! ✨
⤠ SOUNDTRACK ⤟
“How to Tango” by Arthur Benson
“Among Terraced Houses” by Arthur Benson
“Figured Out” Arthur Benson
“Organized Chaos” by Arthur Benson
“Matan Ephrat Farewell” by Maya Belsitzman
“Stay Whimsical” by Arthur Benson
“Kingdom Of Baghk” by Vusal Zeinalov
---
00:00 Introduction
02:01 Blueland Ad with Maintenance Bernadette
03:16 Recipe Tomfoolery Commences
03:50 Skin Food
07:39 Skin Cleaner
10:52 Face Powder
12:27 Moisturiser For Dry Skin
14:20 Eye Puffiness
15:32 Evening Routine
20:15 Morning Routine
22:43 A Week of Testing
23:44 Final Review
![A Day To Remember: Feedback [OFFICIAL VIDEO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iXVnysmQ4e0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Kehlani - Next 2 U [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MpI7ekFG8A0/mqdefault.jpg)
Bernadette about lanolin: "I'm not sure I want this on my face, this is kind of aggressive."
Also Bernadette: _makes cleanser out of acetone and rubbing alcohol_
IKR
RIGHT. I was like STOP PUTTING ACETONE ON YOUR FAAAAAACE ugh my skin was cracking just thinking about it.
That cleanser's ingredients read EXACTLY like a nail polish remover, scary stuff! No wonder you need lard AND lanolin afterwards to try and repair some of that drastic dehydration.
I love how its the lanolin, the product still used today, that she's not sure about. Lanolin is considered safe to use around newborn babies.
@@sarahluchies1076 Yeah. The liquid used to strip nail polish off your nails and the liquid used to disinfect hospital equipment didn’t give pause…but the lanolin was “aggressive”. Sometimes, Bernadette. Sometimes.
Bernadette: doesn't want lanolin on her face
also Bernadette: gladly putting ACETONE on her face
Acetone, the stuff that causes: kidney, liver, and nerve damage... not to mention totally messing up anything child-birthing related no matter the sex.
Ikr! Lanolin is still used in skincare products today! 😂
Modern skin care products like face cream have extracts of lanolin, obviously it is being heavily deodorized in the factories and made easily appliable.
@@Valsorayu She also used isopropanol which metabolises into acetone by alcohol dehydrogenase :) Isopropanol itself seems more toxic than acetone if my cursory google search can be trusted.
@@mrwalter1049Oh, how fun! The same stuff I use to clean circuit boards gets metabolized by my body into stuff that I use for stripping paint.
And she's putting that on her *face*?!
It would be so interesting to have a dermatologist react to this video
They'd find it a nightmare lol. rice powder and rice contain arsenic and shouldn't be put on your face. Same for many of the other ingredients. That it works doesn't mean it isn't a health hazard.
Arsenic in rice is in such small doses that it’s hard to detect most of the time and that amount is not definitely not going to penetrate the skin barrier. No need to fearmonger people, my friend
@@chernyylebed2050 a while back scientists warned about the dangers of even putting rice water on your face. There was a whole Canadian documentary about it the dangers of arsenic building up in adult and baby bodies from just eating unwashed rice. If you have no knowledge of this please don't call it fear mongering but look up research.
In Europe rice and products with rice (flakes, cookies, baby food and milk) gets tested on amount of arsenic. The US does no such thing and that's scary.
@@shia7421 rice is a very common ingredient in current and ancient asian skin care
have you skin how pretty their skin are?
@@shia7421 rice is great for the skin
if i had a nickel for every time bernadette got inhalation drunk while recreating victorian beauty recipes, i’d have two nickels, which isn’t a lot, but it’s weird that it happened twice, right?
To be fair, the last time was absorption-drunk from the alcohol-based shampoo...
History doesn't repeat itself, but it sure does rhyme
Curse you, Perry the Platypus!
Hey! Spoiler alerts? LoL
@@CheshirePhrog Genuine question, why do you read the comments before watching the video? Shouldn't you be prepared for spoilers?
As someone that paints my nails often, putting acetone on my face sounds like a pure horror movie scene.
The minute I saw Acetone I was like ummmmm that’s a no from me 😂
@@allysmith2284 I cringed so hard 🤣 My body just physically recoiled at the thought of it.
omg me too and just the thought of that smell near my EYES was terrifying
I've used acetone to strip the finish off of leather that I bought as bulk scraps. I had to change where I was working for more ventilation and it likes to vaporize faster than I can move. It's a harsh chemical.
I barely use it even when painting my nails because it feels so bad on my skin. I think since it evaporates so quickly it makes you feel cold and weird
The “yes, what the f*ck is wrong with you?” got me good. The kind of response only a true friend can have 😂 “Reevaluate your life decisions.”
I'm assuming it was Abby she called, but I really want to know.
the sighs of exasperation that follow crack me up
Me thinking that was Siri for half a second 😂
@@MAashChick it sounded like Abby but I am also very curious
Happy to report it gets funnier each time you watch it 😂
I researched some of the strange ingredients in Miss Banner's recipes, because I figured many of you would wonder, "Where could you get all that stuff before the internet even existed?" I figured a lot of this stuff could have been made at home, or in a beautician's workshop, but it turns out, no surprise, that these recipes from the turn of the last century are actually mostly products of early industry or industrial extraction processes.
*Benzoin* used to be called "benjamin," and is a tree resin like balsam gum, from several Asian trees. It is an important ingredient in church incense and some perfumes.
*Lard* is rendered (de-moisturized) pig fat. It will keep like butter, and can be used like butter, although it tastes a bit porky.
*Beeswax candles* were already being replaced with modern paraffin-based candles in the late 19th century or earlier. Modern candles are actually very, well, modern. High tech, even.
*Lanolin* is a natural grease that sheep produce, which coats and protects their fleece. It's the main ingredient in Goop, a popular grease and stain remover before Gojo took its place. The trick is, your hands must be dry before applying or handling it, then it'll be easier to get off. It is exactly the consistency and stickiness to provoke an involuntary disgust reaction from many people.
*Acetone* is a solvent that's been known since the 17th century, but the modern method of distilling it wasn't invented until a few years after Miss Banner's source was published. In 1911, it was at least as useful as a solvent as it is today, especially industrially.
*Boric acid* was usually made from borax, an alkaline mineral mined from dry lake beds, but it's common in small amounts in nature. It had many cleaning and pesticide uses, and was a common household product before trademarked cleaning solutions took over. Yes Boraxo is made with it, yes, they really did, briefly, haul borax out of Death Valley with wagon trains pulled by teams of 18 mules and 2 horses. It took forever.
*Alum* is a complex mineral salt that has been used in dying cloth since the Bronze Age. It was a commodity mined from deposits, but was probably made industrially by 1911.
*Orris root* is the dried roots of some of the more common ornamental lilies, cured for several years and powdered. It's still used in the perfume trade. Thanks, Yũ!
*Magnesium carbonate* is a mineral salt derived from magnesite ore, through inorganic chemistry. This stuff is so versatile, in the industrial age, then as now, that it's hard to make a short list of its uses, from chemistry to food processing to the "chalk" that climbers and gymnasts powder their hands with (it's not actual chalk).
*Glycerine* is to this day refined from plant and animal fats. It's always been useful, and it's not that hard to make.
*Cocoa Butter* melts at 93 degrees Fahrenheit. Miss Banner did not expect it to have the consistency of solid chocolate.
*Tannic acid* is the specific tannin from oak galls. Tannins are highly astringent preservatives. A bit of refining would be necessary, I couldn't' find exactly what or how, but considering the substance, it could be done at home or in a workshop, as well as by industrial processes.
thank you 😊
Benzoin is also a well known perfume note, I think it is often present in cedar/ woodsy scents to make them smell richer
Lanolin is also incredibly useful for women who are breastfeeding because it's safe for the baby.
Borax is still a thing. You use it for bath bombs and homemade laundry detergent
You can find lard, boric acid (Borax), glycerine, and cocoa butter at most grocery stores. And rosin has to be easy to get from somewhere, because gymnasts use it in bulk.
I love how Bernadette always treats surviving the experiment like a pleasent suprise
Bernadette is a TROOPER! Anything for authentic historical research.
It wasn't the Rubbing alcohol that damaged the towel, it was the Acetone, which is actually very damaging to skin, and will dry it out to the point of possible cracking. Thats also why it smelled like nail polish remover, its the acetone that mainly melts nail polish.
I can see it being used to get grime off the face, when I work in the metal shop it's the only thing that gets grimy grease out of the creases of my hands, then I moisturize right away. Even the citrus based pummice cleaners don't work as well as acetone. Totally nasty for the skin though.
As a nail technician, I winced 😭😂 99% alcohol AND acetone in one product was hard to handle haha. We use pure acetone to dehydrate the nail plate before applying enhancements (because oils on the nail prevent adhesion). The nail literally goes chalky white because it’s so dry 😂 (don’t worry - it rehydrates shortly after. We just need it dehydrated for application ☺️).
If someone has dry skin, it’s common for the surrounding cuticle/skin to turn white too. As soon as the service is finished I always use cuticle oil and a rich hand cream on clients because even just a brief and tiny amount of acetone/99% IPA is so drying 😭😂 I can’t imagine that on my FACE, twice a day 😭😂
yeah, here in my country nail polish remover is literally just called acetone and everyone advises against putting it on your face, so i was really confused as to why she seemed so chill about it lol
I've tried nail polish removers that didn't contain acetone before and they don't work at all. Acetone is definitely really good at melting off nail polish bits also really good at melting other things too 😅
Don’t forget that in the day when these products were made and recommended the atmosphere would be filled with a lot more coal particles which would dirty the skin a lot. These cleansing products were prob good for the amount of manual labour and physical labour that produces sweat and dirt.
Bernadette's hair gradually unraveling over the course of the video is a whole mood
Yet somehow her hair still looks great.
@@vigilantcosmicpenguin8721 it's gorgeous 😍
I think she looks amazing when she lets her self go and get wild like that
Definite Susan Sto Helit vibes.
It gets more and more mad scientist as the video goes on doesn't it!
Watching Bernadette's slow evolution into a Mad Victorian Scientist is exactly what I needed for 2023
My Nanna worked in a factory in the 1920's and 30's. She said the main concern for her skin was protection, so perhaps that is why the heavy moisturizer and then the powder to protect. She had the best skin. Love this vlog.
Bernadette's sunglasses/safety goggles are EVERYTHING and I'm obsessed with this mad scientist vibe
Where can I buy it?
@@rushgub2731 I too need these
@@rushgub2731 I went on a slight dive. They appear to be a type of old school Baush & Lomb saftey gogles
And she had the coat to match it with
The million dollar question. I want this answered.
Bernadette: * gets two adult sheep's fleeces worth of lanolin, the grease that makes wool weather- and dirt-proof *
Also Bernadette: For some reason, this does not come off with hot water and mild soap.
😂
As someone who regularly pats sheep - a little bit of lanolin is great. That much... Well you'd be VERY moisturised
@@katerrinah5442 for quite some time. It has great staying power.
Lanolin is great, I use it on very dry skin daily (not on my face) and I find that a light lotion is the best thing to get it off your hands because it helps to distribute it across the skin. Water seems to bounce off of it, which I gather works for the sheep.
@@punchpineapple Ngl, removing lanolin with other oils is a beautiful example of high school chemistry class on how to reliably dissolve compounds by finding "things in the same chemical family".
If your sibling still edits your videos, tell them we GREATLY appreciate these hilarious cuts!!
The editing of Miss Banner's videos is always to die for.
They do and I completely agree!! I believe she always credits him in the description right before the music tracks used
The idea of Bernadette being the chaotic friend is the funniest shit to me.
For the separating for the dry skin lotion, it probably needed to be emulsified while it was heated up, so that it would stay in suspension when it was poured into the jar. You could reheat it in the jar and use a small wisk or a milk frother to mix it well, and that might work to help it combine again.
Exactly what i was thinking. Ms Banner! Your sauce is breaking!
Came to the comments to say exactly this, it would be the same process behind most cold creams and lotions.
Heres another broken emulsion for you. Regards from the chef.
Yes - melt the fat, and gradually introduce the liquid a few drops at a time. It will suspend!
I was thinking too if she warmed the jar in a hot water bath until it was softened not melted she could hypothetically just shake the jar to emulsify. And continue to do so periodically as it cools if she notices it separating again.
It's the hair, the glasses, and the lab coat for me... Totally sells the turn-of-the-century mad scientist vibe, while also being unfathomably stunning!
I WANT those glasses so bad. I also want my hair like that omg gorgeous 😍
All about that Hair!…
As someone who has made cosmetics for herself for quite some time: shea butter can be a good substitue for lard. Also: you need an emulsifyer to mix fat and water based substances. otherwise they will always separate. don't know, what victorians would have used, theres plenty of options for different fat-water rations with different proerties now a days. If the fat is liquid you can skip it in some recepies and make a "shake-emulsion" -where you shake it up, before use, mixing the water and fat particles for a short time.
The emulsifier in that recipe is the lanolin actually. However it's not the best at absorbing water and you need to mix it up with the other ingredients using a mortar and pestle. It requires a lot of mixing and can still separate. We still use it to make creams the pharmacy I work at.
Came here to say this! And to add that beeswax IS an emulsifier. The moisturizer for dry skin recipe needs to be made like one would make mayonnaise. It can be tricky, but makes a WONDERFUL lotion. Basically, keep everything warm, start a slow blender (not food processor) with everything but the water, and then dribble the water in slowly to emulsify everything.
My family's go to recipe for pie crust involves mixing shortening and butter, then adding boiling water. It emulsfies no problem. I think if all the fats were softened but not melted, the moisturizer would mix up well.
I was thinking that the moisturizer may have required whipping to create a lotion consistency
@@rachelmelone7168 Beeswax is not an emulsifier. Saying so is reinforcing a misconception. The beeswax in this recipe thickens the lotion and also leaves a protective film behind to help and prevent transepidermal water loss. Hence the beeswax is an emollient. :)
Measuring the lanolin is a lot like trying to measure crisco oil or lard for cooking. My grandma told me about the water method.... If you need 1 oz of lanolin, fill the measuring cup to 2 oz mark with water, then add the lanolin until the water rises to the 3 oz mark (or fill to 1 oz with water, and then add lanolin until it hit the 2 oz mark, whichever is easier). It makes having to handle the lanolin easier and not make such a mess.
That is genius, and exactly the kind of thing that makes historians scream and tear their hair out. Those little things that "everyone knows" that never get written down. Thank you for writing it down.
So, fun fact! When you are a nursing mom, they make a 100% lanolin ointment to protect your nipples! Because it is very hydrating and protective and safe for newborns to ingest. My littles grew to rather like the taste of it. 😆 But it is indeed SUPER GREASY and sticks to everything! But it is the best for otherwise incurably dry lips, elbows, and heels!
@Anouk same for me, I put lanolin on the frame of my truck during the winter to prevent it from rusting.
Great for wool garments too!
I should have read farther down in the comments. Lanolin is lovely 🥰
LOL this is exactly what I was thinking!! Lanolin is wonderful 😂
Came here to say the same thing. Lanolin is incredibly good for chapped, dry, sensitive skin. I swore by it while nursing. It's the best, truly.
I’m a licensed esthetician, a skincare consultant, and I have say, I was not surprised at seeing the moisturizer separating with the cacao butter floating up to the top, as the recipe did not mention any binding ingredients, and lanolin, while it did help the product to adhere to the skin, is unfortunately not a binding ingredient that would have prevented suspension from happening. As for the face cleaner, I would recommend anyone using isopropyl alcohol on their face to limit that to just chemical peels which is ethically a once a month ritual, as isopropyl alcohol removes the entire skin’s acid mantle making it easier for the acid to penetrate the skin’s top layer for acid exfoliation. Professionally, though, I would suggest instead using a pre-peel solution of Alpha Hydroxy Acids en lieu of the isopropyl alcohol. Still, happy to see your skin looking more clear and supple. Happy experimenting 👍🏻
They probably intended for the "added perfume" to be an oil-based concoction? Once you put a water-based ingredient in with all those oil/fat/wax ingredients, you gotta have an emulsifier to keep it from separating! And while a blend of oils and waxes will probably stay fine if in an airtight container, once you add a water-based ingredient you may also have issues with microbial growth, so I'd add an emulsifier AND a mild preservative. Both are pretty easy to get your hands on at low cost (polysorbate and ethylhexylglycerine maybe?) and it's also easy to find recs for how much of each to add to your formula, usually as a % of total weight or volume.
And I have my hands in isopropyl alllll the time and use acetone for fake-nail removal, but I would NEVER put acetone on my face! Aaaaa! Nooooo so drying! And boric acid?! I mean I'm not a chemist and have no idea what kind of potentially buffering reactions occur when all these things are mixed or what the resultant ph/pKa is but :OOOOOOOOO
I think the lanolin-rosewater thing (besides needing an emulsifier) is maybe supposed to be whipped while adding the water phase--it's definitely not supposed to separate like that...
I’m not trying to be mean or snarky, but the term is in lieu not en leu.
-
I kind of think that a stripper for the skin makes sense as from my dad's years in a factory showed me: soot and grease grime gets into skin creviced and doesn't come out. If Bernadette had grease from a factory machine worked into her skin, the acetone might have removed it. I can remember my dad using nail polish remover (in a pinch) on his hands before funerals or weddings so he didn't look filthy at an important event.
I like the "French in the morning, Korean at night" routine; gentle massage with lukewarm water in the morning, followed by sunscreen, and 5 steps of gentle cleansing and moisturizing at night.
I'm a chemist and I'm also a skincare nerd.. acetone is generally used as nail polish remover and to clean lab glassware. Using it on your skin will lead to extreme dryness, especially coupled with isopropyl alcohol. Lanolin is a good ingredient to have in skincare because it helps maintain and rebuild your skin barrier (helps keep your skin moisturised).
I'm just praying for her skin 😂😂
!
Uh huh, you know nothing about the past wisdom and information they have.
My eldest had an absolutely horrible diaper rash once as a baby and my lovely great aunt took her, washed the diaper cream we had been putting on her off and put straight lard on her skin. Rash was calmed down significantly in the time it took to have to change her again and gone by morning. She smelled kinda porky for a day but she was no longer in pain and healed completely in that short time.
Yeah nothing's better for my hands after having them in harsh cleansers or chemicals than doing something like separating meat for soup and getting animal fat all over them.
Straight Vaseline will do the same. That's what Aquaphor is made of
@@veronicavatter6436 Though animal oils work slightly better than petroleum oils, since they're closer to human oils.
Lanolin is similar. Being from Australia we used to use it a lot (it comes from sheep/wool)
Palmers cocoa butter is the best I've found in my 60 years. Works well on sunburn too. Butter used to be used instead of lard sometimes. Coconut oil and olive oil are also good vegan substitutes.
I love the part where she calls her friend if she can get inhaled drunk and she gave Bernadette a straightforward answer lmao
Abby Cox?
@@agcons ohh it was Abby Cox ??! I didn't know that, that's so cute that they had contact with each other ❤️
@@johnanhmmiii It sounded like Abby's voice, both timbre and cadence. Oh, and word choice too.🤣
@@agcons oh I thought it was Constance
Or perhaps Nicole?
@@agcons Whomever it was, I cackled. It’s the exact thing I would say if my friend called me to ask if they could get inhalation drunk from isopropyl alcohol. “What the f*ck is wrong with you? What are you doing? No. Don’t tell me. Just stop whatever it is right now.”
A few random notes:
Camel hair brushes in art are more commonly just a variety of cheaper animal/synthetic bristles.
I wonder if the face cleanser had more of a place when people were working around things like mechanical grease and factory floors. It reminds me of a toner in todays skincare regimen. The thin film over your skin would also help protect it. Pretty interesting!
+
The way the gradually falling hairdo kept perfect pace with the frustration and (possible) inhalation intoxication was just *chef’s kiss*.
We need a How To Cook That x Bernadette collab - between Ann's 200 year old cookbook and Bernadette's proclivity for ancient recipies, they could probably actually fill an old Pharmacy of pastilles and potions!
Oh my gosh yes! That would be the best collab!
Yes! 100% I **love** the 200 year old cookbook (& she has done others- the Ancient Roman cake experiment was super interesting to me)
The accent Ann puts on to read the old recipes is a scream!
The amounts some of the old recipes call for is astonishing, & a lot of the time you're getting additional ingredients & techniques all throughout the recipe, but you often need to do them ahead of time _before_ the main part.
Best single bit of advice anyone could get about working with with a period recipe is never jump straight in, no matter how few ingredients, or seemingly simple the dish - in that way lies *pain* (don't ask how I know) - second best bit of advice: double & triple check quantities...
Or Tasting History!
Anne, Bernadette, and Dylan B Hollis are the trifecta of old (ahem, ancient) recipe recreations.
Yes!
FYI, the "face brush" for soaping cleaning they are probably referring to is more akin to a shave-soap brush or one of those little round, handled exfoliating/cleaning brushes you can find in the cosmetics section of the store. You apply the wet brush circularly to stir up a lather on the soap, and can then "scrub" the face lightly with the brush to loosen dead skin and agitate accumulated soils and oils out of your skin's creases and pores.
I wondered about the brush being used to clean and exfoliate. Thanks for posting this!
Yep, the KonMari shop sells one with horsehair (which sounds a little scary, but may work well).
I thought the same thing 😂
I think she's aware, it just specifically said camel's hair and I'm imagining this was the only camel's hair brush she could find.
A man's natural bristle shaving brush would work very well, I'd say.
ok, but can we take a second to discuss how beautiful Bernadette's hair is? I mean, those curls are immaculate!
Not only her hair...she' a complete beauty!
Just in case you get the urge to make some more old timey cosmetics let me tell you a secret! I've made some lotion from a very old recipe before, and I'm guessing that second to last recipe was not supposed to separate. There's a very tedious method of emulsification that you're supposed to use where you melt the solids and oils at a very low temperature (I used beeswax, because I was too smart to touch lanolin 😂) and you add it to the room temperature waters/alcohol very slowly at first. You need to add literally one drop of oil mix to the water mix and whisk it for several minutes, then add another drop and mix for several minutes over and over, until it starts to thicken a tiny bit from a water like consistency to a soupy water consistency (it will stick enough to cover the back of a spoon for a few seconds). Then you can start adding 2-3 drops at a time. It takes hours if you're doing it by hand. At some point it will reach a threshold that's hard to describe but it's very noticeable as you're doing it when you're halfway through the oil stuff, where it changes from slightly viscous fluid to an almost custard like texture and you can mix in a fraction of a teaspoon at a time. If at any point you add too much oil at once the emulsion breaks and it can't be recovered. Depending on the recipe it can come very close to a lotion consistency and you'll be able to form soft peaks (points that fall over) with your stirring utensil when you lift it out of the mix.
Cosmetic makers made the technique very hard to find so I think I got the info from a recipe for salad dressing or something like that. Modern emulsifiers make the technique redundant so it's almost impossible to find unless you get obsessed with finding it for a few days.
As a teen I did extracurricular engineering programs, and on one field trip we visited a chemical factory (Dow Chemical) and got to learn all about their products, one of which was lotion. They use huge machines along with specific chemicals which are emulsification agents to emulsify large batches of these products which is why you won’t find much info online. But we got to make our own lotion, which was neat:)
@@miaomiaou_ that does sound fun! I always enjoyed getting tours of factories. Everyone uses chemical emulsifiers these days, and they're usually a secret because of how difficult it is to make a decent emulsion. It's probably a big reason why the mechanical method of emulsification is hard to find too, the technique is as much of a old-timey trade secret as the chemicals are today. When I make my own lotion again these days (usually for my sensitive dog) I add a few teaspoons of a store bought lotion or "udder butter" just to get some of those chemicals in my recipe and save myself some time. I'd still have to be careful not to break it, but it really jump starts the process.
I make lotion but I do use a commercial emulsifier (Olivem 1000 or Monatov 68 are my preferred). Whenever I've tried making a true lotion without an emulsifier, it separated. You can make a wax based balm or lotion bar, both of which are also great, but for a creamy and fast absorbing lotion you really do need an emulsifier to succeed. Also, a preservative, otherwise it'll mold and grow bacteria with the water content in a matter of days.
In a different context, a similar method of emulsification can be found in a French sauce called beurre monté, which is emulsified butter and water!
+
First gasp was hearing Acetone was going in the skin cleanser. The second gasp was seeing a dark towel being used to apply sed cleanser.
I'm so glad your skin survived the experiment. 🙂
The last time I used acetone "in the wild" (in other words, not nail polish remover) was to get paint off something. It worked. Agh!
And imagine getting in your eyes!!! 😱
Agreed acetone in my world Is a acrylic and lacquer remover off wood furniture and dries out the wood .should not go on skin!
I can't breathe around acetone, so it is never getting near my face. And no I never used nail polish.
Second gasp for me was 99% isopropyl alcohol! I'm so relieved you didn't have a burning and peeling event.
For the dry skin cream, if you ever re-make it, I highly recommend attempting to emulsify it as it cools. So after you melt everything together, whisk it vigorously over a bowl of ice water. It might stop the separation!
I was thinking the same, or shake the jar vigorously, for a minute or so.
@@michellealbers3191 I just made this lotion and I can confirm that whisking or shaking it vigorously as it cools does in fact stop the separation and gives it a lovely lotion-like consistency! I would honestly consider putting it in an old bullet blender while cooling for maximum emulsion.
Yeah I'm pretty sure she wasn't putting the prescribed "dry skin cream" on her face but rather just cocoa butter, which is still commonly used as a moisturizer today. Not surprised she liked it the most of all the things she tried 😂
Or replace the rosewater with essential oil.
@@vanessamvareladue to the ratio of rose water used, you’d have to dilute the essential oil with a LOT of water in order to get the ratio to make it the correct consistency
I use a lanolin based nipple cream I got when breast feeding my kids as a lip balm and it's uh-may-zing. The only thing that actually creates a nice layer without staying too gooey. I hate the feel of it when applying too, it's so sticky, but once it's on where it should be it works so well. Some people are extremely allergic though
That’s the exact same thing I was telling her. It’s wonderful!!
I have some on hand for small cuts and dry lips. It's a wonderful healer. I might now use it in my DIY skincare thanks to this video (and yes, I first started using it while breastfeeding).
lansinoh? That stuff is solid evidence that there is a creator that loves us.
@@LittleGreenSoldier yep. Absolute lifesaver!
I never knew I needed Science Bernadette and her Sassy Science Phone Pal until this moment, but now I don't know how I lived without them. Amazing. Bravo. 11/10. Please, continue if at all possible!
I LOVE science Bernadette! The chaos, the style, the everything! Hoep we get more of this in the future
Steampunk is a good look for Burnadettte.
@@itwasagoodideaatthetime7980 love those glasses
My grandmother (born 1900) advised that we clean our faces at night with witch hazel and then used a light commercial product (Oil of Olay). In the morning we were to rinse our faces with clear, cool water ("Because only a slattern would fail to wash her face."). This was the process because "The angels have spent all night getting your face to the right level of soft." I am now 67 and don't look a day over, well 67. But my friends say that my skin is very nice. :)
47 and starting to show it, but it's still way better than before I started using sunblock instead of moisturizer, when I was in my 30s my skin looked like my mom's who was in her 50-60s and a regular Oil of Olay user. I use a damp facecloth for a gentle scrub every morning and most evenings, followed in morning by SPF 50 sunblock (I use one with titatium dioxide that's more a physical than chemical barrier) or witchhazel in the evenings, if it's in the middle of winter and I'm feeling dry (I do work outside a lot and it's below freezing for most of November till March here) I'll grab whatever face moisturizer I can stand the smell of, usually something like Aveeno. But my face and hair have never been happier since I quit using soap to strip all the natural oils out of them, only part of me that's remained steadfastly greasy is my ears.
Nowadays I use pure jojoba oil to remove my make up, and witch hazel as a toner (and to remove the excess oil!) My skin is lovely and soft, I hardly ever break out, and it feels considerably less harsh that the off-the-shelf cleansers and make up removers I used to use. Once in a while I'll have a good soapy scrub just to refresh, but I don't find that necessary!
😂
@Ксенія♡укр eh, if I don't wash my face my skin gets very oily and I break out. Skincare is very dependant on each person. You've found the best routine for you, but it may not be ideal for everyone
My grandma got me on Humphreys witch hazel as a teen and I'm still using it at 34
The mad scientist green glasses are amazing. When you think you could not love Ms. Bernadette anymore she is able to surprise. ❤
It is monumentally interesting to me as a long term subscriber to see Bernadette’s recent hair evolution. I absolutely adore the new look and would love to see an updated tutorial.
As someone who worked very closely with sheep as a vet tech, the best thing was the lanolin that would get on your hands in the middle of winter. Truly a lifesaver on the farms.
Absolutely, my family is very close with the wool industry in the US and it is fantastic stuff.
Bernadette grating candles and making Forbidden Parmigiano™ is what I'm here for
I’ve never heard of using lanolin in skincare but I use lanolin based cleaners for all my nice wool clothing because once you’ve spent hundreds of hours knitting something out of Very nice wool yarn it feels more worth hand washing to keep it nice and lanolin is best for wool for obvious sheep reasons
I loved "sheep reasons" lol
Lanolin is also used for hair care.
Lanolin is a phenomenal protective cream
I looked up the 'benefits' of some of the raw ingredients out of curiosity. A lot of them are antibacterial in property, which makes sense for the time period, I don't imagine it was particularly hygienic. As the book said, you probably will pick up all sorts of muck throughout the day! The oils that stick to the face for a long time would also form some kind of barrier to said grime.
The air in cities back then was filthy, full of smoke and soot from coal and wood fires in households and industrial smoke from factories and workplaces. Soot is greasy and sticky and generally revolting and sticks to hair, skin and clothing. I can see why they would use harsh cleansers if that was what they had to get off their skin daily. when you look at old building built from light stone from that period they generally ended up black from the air pollution. Cities like Bath illustrated this very well - when I lived there in the 90s there were still buildings with this layer of greasy black hell om them, and they would have had much less pollution there than heavily industrial or densely populated places like London or Manchester.
I’m having a chuckle at your aversion to lanolin 😂 Lanolin is the oil that keeps sheep nice and cozy in waterproofed wool. The lanolin is washed out prior to spinning the wool. Wearing lanolin on your skin takes you just a bit closer to your beloved wool fabric!❤
it's also used to grease brass instruments... some of the valves in a French horn or trumpet are lathered up in lanolin, so I was shocked when she said she was gonna be putting it on her face.
Lanolin is really good for your skin. Sheep shearing makes the hands soft and is a ingredient in many lotions
It's also the best thing for breastfeeding mothers so as not to get sore.
I'm wondering about the lanolin she purchased, because there are bottles of lanolin in liquid form, instead of a thick paste like what she has. I have it in a bottle that can be easily poured into my hands for application to my legs and other areas affected by my eczema. I like it because it creates almost like a barrier between my dry, cracked skin and the outside world.
It's in lip balms and face creams and the like too!
Every video the last year or so Bernadette's style is slowly morphing into a version of Missy the female version of the master and I love it!
Nice!
OMG you're right! Michelle Gomez appreciation fist-bump.
Everyone knows Ms Banner is a time lord!
Yes! I'd noticed but not had the words!
Oh 15 minutes a day on skincare...tell me you have naturally blessed skin without telling me...
I'm jealous and your style is immaculate
I have a co-worker like that. she puts absolutely nothing on her skin and looks better just waking up in the morning than I after products and light make-up. some people are just born with it.
stop puting anything but water
It also helps if you literally never use makeup.
@@wishuonmyjourney818that does not help everyone and does not wash away air pollution, actual dirt, makeup etc lmfao
This was so interesting, and it reminds me of a soap making group I belonged to years ago. We were discussing our grandmother's skin care routine and how using lard or Vaseline to cleanse the face was common. We debated about whether it would lead to clogged pores etc., and then just decided to try it and see. A month later, we were all shocked with how well it worked and how good our skin looked.
The lab coat and safety glasses are giving Missy (Doctor Who) vibes and it's fantastic!
Steampunk is a good look for Burnadettte.
i saw more of a fem Crowley tbh, despite the white clothing
I’m also getting Victorian/Steampunk Dr. Olivia Octavius vibes from the overall look!
Thats what I saw right away lol
Young Yzma, anyone? Just me?.. Okay then
Maintenance Bernadette! Victorian home chemistry! And inhalation drunkenness strikes again lol! And yes - applying to the entire face was risky. We appreciate the sacrifice lol Lovely and fun video! And welcome back!
In case anyone was wondering about the moisturizer for dry skin, and why it separated; you are supposed to whisk it while it cools. It helps it emulsifie. I may have made that mistake once or twice before as well. The top of the jar is just cacao butter.
Her hair is just fabulous in this video.
✨️Turning a look whilst being a scientist ✨️
I’d reheat the dry skin lotion and see if
1. Emulsifying (whisking) while heating and
2. Shaking the bottle periodically while it cools
Keeps it from separating.
I think by "camel hair brush" they mean something like a shaving brush to get a good lather. Also, if you were to mix or shake the moisturizer while it cools or possibly add an emulsifier, you should get a texture more like modern moisturizer. In fact, most buttercreams have a similar ratio of water/emulsifier to fat, so it would feel a lot like that. Also, I think by almond meal, they mean almond flour, which would be much finer and end up exfoliating your skin.
If you bake, you know!
Lanolin is one of my favorite ingredients in skin care. I found it when i was nursing because it's what nipple cream is made of. It's in a ton of slugging products and lip products, like overnight lip masks. You wake up with the softest skin ever!
I would trust an apothecary run by Bernadette with all my hair care and skin care needs 🙌
😂😂😂
Yes absolutely
I'd love to see a colab between Bernadette and Ruth Goodman, assuming Ruth is still presenting.
If you haven't seen her 'Victorian Pharmacy' series, you can snag it online fairly easily.
I don't know, I do remember the scrambled egg hair issue!
Quick tip for lanolin! I’ve been spinning lots of raw wool recently, and the best way I’ve found to get the lanolin stickiness off of my hands is to wash my hands with hand sanitizer! The alcohol from the hand sanitizer gets rid of the residue in a snap.
. . . and hand sanitizer is ethyl alcohol not isopropyl.
Idk, I just find that it works for me. I don’t know much about chemistry though, so I’ll defer to you on the science part!
Bit of cheep vodka in a spray bottle might help. I have a fairly bad sensitivity to most artificial scents so it's what my household uses instead.
yes, same for pine resin. what's even better, at least for getting off the last traces, is that sort of hand washing paste with the saw dust in it that's made for people who get motor oil and soot and such off their hands. alternatively, you can get the last traces off by washing with soap, water and alcohol at the same time (combining soap with as much alcohol as possible). that's how I deep-clean the brushes I use for violin varnish, which is resins in alcohol.
Try Orange Clean. It has lanolin in it but the citrus and pumice in it are designed to strip grease. There are different makers for it and it comes in different forms. My dad liked the tub form that you take a scoop out of. (Plumber) and then he'd pair it with Utter Balm after. Man had softer hands than most women.
Midway through the complex formulation, comes the question: I’m not sure if I want this on my face. 😂 You are courageous.
For those interested. The "Skin Food" has roughly the same ingredients as Bag Balm, a brand of hand moisturizer available in many pharmacies today. It's also useful for conditioning and waterproofing leather goods.
The puffiness reducer would probably be effective. An old home remedy is to place old teabags over your eyes, which also contains tannins. Also, a hard-working woman in 1900 would probably not be getting the same amount of sleep as you. Poignant, when you think of all she had to do, that she still took a little time for self-care.
The caffeine in tea will also help reduce puffiness. Clinique has/had caffeine in one of their eye potions for reducing puffiness. I did not know that tannins worked similarly.
@@beckyd3140 I guess everything works together.
I'm loving the Victorian mad scientist aesthetic. This was an interesting video.
Lard (and tallow) is actually really good for skin care! Much more so than vegetable options. It is similar to our skin fat and has some great nutrients in it. And it's very natural. Also lanolin is great (unless your are allergic). Keeps the moisture in the skin.
I put Tallow on my face all the time I want to try Lard next.
true
Random side note. This goddess uses safety pins as cuff links. I adore this.
that skin cleaner is very reminiscent of that Clean and Clear brand cleaner that a lot of people used when I was in middle school/high school. It was basically rubbing alcohol that was meant to remove "excess" skin oils but it just removed all the skin oil.
Yes I remember that too! the horribly tight sensation of entirely oil-free skin...
I was thinking the "toner" part of the "cleanser/toner/moisturizer" that was preached at me when I was young, turns out all my skin wants is a gentle rub with a wet facecloth and some sunblock every morning.
In my teen era, it was Sea Breeze that was the alcohol based toner that would burn your whole face off, in a futile effort to prevent acne breakouts.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 I never do more than a quick, rough scrub with a washcloth. I need the oils, but I also need to get the construction site out of my face skin when I'm not at work
@@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken LOL yeah, drywall dust, concrete grit and sand are not as good for the face as one might think!
Bernadette consistently has the best background music of all the CosTubers, plus the most Doctor Who references (agreeing with whoever said there is a definite Missy vibe, plus the Eccleston-era plug). Extra points for consciously and excessively using the word "moist". So glad you didn't die!
Yeah - she's back! Huzzah! 😀. BTW, my Gran always used a 50/50 mix of Rose Water and Witch Hazel, which she got made up at Boots the Chemist, as a cleanser/toner. She had beautiful skin.
With the hair,make up and outfit I totally see bernadette being a mad scientist ❤❤❤❤
Paraffin wax might have been what was called white wax in the first recipe. It had been commercially available for several decades. Others have commented on the emulsion issue (like making salad dressing), and the value of lanolin. I suspect that the camel hair brush would have been a shaving brush which was used with a round cake of soap in a shaving mug.
As someone who loves to history bound victorian fashion AND is training to be a medical laboratory technician this video was so fun! immaculate vibes all around ✨
Steampunk is a good look for Burnadettte.
I love lanolin. Sticky and yucky, but a fantastic balsam for leather, dry skin, sore nipple when breastfeeding, natural waterproofing agent... It is, after all, made of natural skin fats extremely similar to our own.
Regarding the face cream: when making a cream, it's important to slowly add the water to the other ingredients whilst whisking the mixture vigorously in order to properly emulsify them into a smooth moisturiser consistency :) It seems like your oil/fat and water components have separated because they haven't been thoroughly whisked during the creation process! Cocoa butter is a natural emulsifier and should help to combine with water with the lanolin :) just like making mayonnaise! You want to continue mixing until it cools 😎
omg Bernadette, we NEED a hair tutorial for all the hairstyles you did in this video! I loved them all so much but have no clue as to how to recreate them ♡
I don't think one week is enough for a whole new routine. My dermatologist advised me to wait for 2-3 weeks for changes to happen when I introduce new products to my face, so I would've loved to see the test go on longer.
However, science Bernadette is always a delight, love the safety glasses :D
It was definitely the acetone that changed the color of your hand towel, not the alcohol! I'm always paranoid of staining my towels while trying to remove nail polish, and it can even melt synthetic fibers.
I love how Bernadette has just actually become a potion maker at this point.
Lanolin is what they gave me for chaffing whilst breastfeeding and it is VERY effective. Unfortunately, I was unable to produce enough, so I just used it for chapped lips or very dry spots on arms or legs during winter. It really is effective at healing dryness quickly. Highly recommend 😊
It’s a total nipple saver
I was wondering if breast/chestfeeding folks would sound off here. Lanolin is such a massive help but it definitely feels super gooey and stains clothes.
Yes it is! my grandma swears by Bag Balm for any sort of injury or skin abrasion.
Came looking for this! Lanolin was so helpful for the girls but then also for dry lips too 🤭
@@dirtbagdeacon, if you’re nursing, you’re probably also using breast pads to catch leaks, which also conveniently would act as a barrier between the lanolin and your potentially expensive nursing bras.
The safety pin holding the sleeve cuff together despite being an accomplished Sewist is a total vibe.
I sew for a living yet I have so many blouses missing buttons and just safety pinned 😂
Am I the only one obsessed with her outfit in this video???? The jacket is superb!!!!
Honest confusion: when something calls for an ingredient to be "powdered", shouldn't it be made the consistency of, well, a powder? I adore Bernadette's collection of tools, but I always thought the type of mortal and pestle she uses (the dainty metal one) is an apothecary's one, meant for crushing rather than grinding. A ceramic or especially stone one would probably serve better for grinding things to fine powder - and might even have helped with mixing the dry skin lotion without adding heat and having the fats separate from the rosewater with just the friction and movement emulsifying the mixture.
Almond meal instead of coarsely crushed almonds in the morning washing water might also have served as a gentle abrasive agent and absorbend for any left over grease from the overnight creams, though that's just the DIY "kitchen chemist" in me hypothesizing - it sure cleans a greasy floor like nobody's business! :'D
I am unreasonably attracted to slightly mussed hair, green safety goggles, mad scientist Bernadette.
That is not unreasonable in the least.
So are we all!
Welcome back!!!
The break seems to have given you so much creativity. “Maintenance Bernadette” was such a clever add transition
I always enjoy your videos, so thank you for the adventure. The quasi-mad scientist look with the glasses and the ever-unraveling hair is an amazing look. The adventure of the week of skincare routine was very interesting and a fun look into the not too distant past. Thank you for the fun and I look forward to seeing the next one.
Please make more of these fascinating lifestyle history videos! Your best content yet! ❤
I love that the general concept is so similar to what we'd do today- cleanser and a heavy night moisturizer before bed; somewhat lighter wash and moisturizing the next morning. We're really not that different!
That’s an interesting point
I'm suprised about your views on Lanolin! It's used for decades to waterproof wool nappy covers. It is the best moisturiser you can use. Yes it has a greasy feel but it feels better than the tubs of eczema lard I had to put on my son as a baby. It works wonders on cracked skin and lips (and nipples!) . It's also great to use on scratched knuckles and places that have a lot of movement where you can't use plasters. I cover small burns with it before wrapping. It's sticky but useful stuff
I really feel her biggest issue with it was the texture...and while it is amazing stuff, I can't find fault with that! 😅
@@shelbywright3712 SAME. I adore the stuff but the texture was FRUSTRATING, even in a squeeze tube!
Your wardrobe this episode is astounding.
Marvelous ❤!
I think as a vegetarian... Instead of lard, you could substitute any oil, avocado oil or olive oil (might in part an olive smell) but it might change the consistency. I would try coconut oil as it's pretty solid under 75f.and has a very mild smell. 💖🌞🌵😷
I had to comment twice, because I’m a skin care addict and some of the ingredients you put on your skin made me scream out loud. ACETONE!! (HIDES in the 21st century skin care)
Same my skin is so dry already that skin cleanser sounds like the worst time.
I clutched my Pearl's at the acetone! Lol
not to mention the boric acid!! When we use that stuff at work (i work in a lab) we take extreme care to avoid contact with that stuff
Acetone is a bit of an overkill, agreed.
same, the acetone made me shed some tears
For the moisturiser, I think you could have heated the oil phase and the water phase separately and then added the water to the oil while stirring, then stirring until it cools off and is just combined (but no more). That way, you suspend the water within the fat like a cold cream. The water releases when you use the cream and gives a cooling effect.
So THAT'S what makes cold cream "cold cream"! I am positively chuffed to learn this :)
I am a diy kind of gal for a few remedies and body care and I really enjoyed that video! Anyway, but yes for the moisturizer you actually need to have you liquid at room temperature and let cool your fat as much as possible but before they start to get a congeled texture. You then mix the water and add the fat slowly while mixing very fast until you get a lotion. In 21st century we use an electric Magic Bullet…1911… I can’t say
I'm loving these informative videos Bernadette!
This was a fantastically amazing diversion from the sewing-related content usually seen from you! The commentary and mad-scientist looks - an absolute riot. I think the ground almonds bit are intended to be an exfoliant - I've seen DIY versions use coffee grinds or other ground nuts and seeds for natural alternatives. Very interesting to see the many different steps involved; both in the making of products and using of them too!
Thank you for sharing this and so glad your skin had no adverse reactions - but watch out for those alcohol ingredients!
My mum bought me a Victorian apothecary's set for my birthday. I just showed her this video.
She is suddenly regretting her gift choices.
I love the research and adherance to safety before beginning historical shenanigans. Also, the green mad scientist glasses are both useful and fashionably fantastic❤ Glad you're back
Steampunk is a good look for Burnadettte.
I loved this video. I currently already make my own lard based foot cream with lard. My store bought haircare product contains lanolin and I used lanolin( a must have!) as a nursing
mother. I recently made a skin and hair balm from tallow (rendered beef fat) with infused rosemary, mint and anise. Amazing! My kids laughed when they saw me making it and said there she goes again. They keep coming back for more product for their skin needs like psoriasis, chapped lips, and moisturizer. Try it you will like it.
What would you use for a glossy lip oil? I bet you could come up with something :)
these videos are so well made!
Watching Bernadette mixing things in this Victorian lab get up is my new favorite genre I didn't know I needed in my life
So happy to have you back!
Your hairstyle and makeup on the beginning look absolutely astonishing! Love the content, as usual!
First of all, never use acetone on your face lol I think your instincts were completely correct! But everything else looked pretty amazing. Although I’m only through the evening routine. Instead of using crushed almonds, if anyone is doing this, they may want to just use almond flour because that’s just crushed almonds.😅 and will add a luxury because you’ll get a little bit of that almond oil and a gentle exfoliants. Have fun!
Almond meal/flour makes such a great gentle exfoliant! But my fave is ground up dried azuki beans (Japanese sweet red beans). They used to sell it at Body Shop in the 90s as "Japanese Washing Grains." You just shake a little into your palm, add in a little warm water and make a paste and gently scrub your face with fingertips. Absorbs just enough oil and exfoliates without damage.
This was so much fun! Thank you for your sacrifices for science. And Victorian women who worked in those horrible factories probably needed the cleanser to get the grime off their faces. Don't forget that coal was literally in the air. Wonderful to see you again!