This is a video of me servicing a Ford Ka that I rebuilt not too long ago. Completely forgot I had this video made. Hope this helps someone, please like and subscribe!
@@newoaknl I had the old Ford KA (2000 model) and now drive the new one (2012 model) and I believe the new drives much better than the old. The engine you get on the new Ford Ka is a Fiat 500, it shares the same engine as Fiat. Most of of the new Ka is a mix-and-match design from Ford and Fiat. The new one has better suspension and much better interior. If you service it well it maintains strong acceleration, even though I believe the new one has a tad less stronger engine than the new one, but I am spitting hairs here. I remember the old one felt like driving a barrel on wheels, you could feel each and every bump but not with the one. Easier to change oil filter on the new one, whereas for the old one it was harder. Unfortunately one similarity the new one has to the old is replacing front lightbulbs, you must remove the whole light fixture to fit your hand, however still it's nothing like the old one where you had to drop the whole front bumper and then unscrew the light fixture ! I'd also say you can get wider tires to fit on the new one. The spare wheel is inside the boot, not underneath like the old one. Plus the new one has electric locks, windows and air con as standard and you can get a key fob to lock/unlock the doors separately from the boot, whereas the old one varied on its edition (mine had absolutely nothing). Word of warning: getting a key fob programmed for the new Ka is quite expensive because you get charged a bit of double the price (Ford and Fiat). Also in my humble opinion you won't find good quality parts for the old one. Kept my old one for almost 5 years and replaced suspensions and shock absorbers among other things, each year there was something that had to be replaced or serviced. The new one is more rigid. Finally, the car tax is much cheaper on the new one, around £30-ish per year (at least for mine) whereas my old one was near £120 cause it was too old. Whenever I had to go for an MOT for my old one there were issues with emissions. The new one has a life-time warranty on its fuel filter, you will never have to replace it.
Just want to point out that the tube that enters the air filter box is glued to its fixing bracket during manufacture. That glued joint can be easily broken when flexing to remove the airbox. The tubes front facing end is only held by one bolt.. so I suggest removing the tube completely rather than trying to work the box off it. If the glued on fixing does get broken it is possible not to notice.. then the front of this air inlet tube can come out of the hole in the front member and drop down and become half obstructed by the upper cross member, reducing air intake and therefore performance at higher revs. Also, I would suggest running the engine to warm the oil before starting to drain. Be carefull if removing the airbox assembly completely from the top of the throttle body intake as anything dropping into the throttle body could have consequences. When 'Hand' tightening the oil filter make sure your hand and filter body are squeaky clean, or your tightening may not be sufficient. It's usually said, tighten to contact point then 1/3rd of a turn further. Hope this helps someone avoid any problems. 😊
i have a problem ford ka 2011 and the systems sas full pompstop has a eror now my car har this error the site belt not working and the start stop is not working and engine in one the dach boord
@@GeorgeX. Cam belt is every 5 years. Dont' ignore it because if it breaks or the teeth shred themselves, valves will hit the pistons. Been there and got the t shirt with a 207. Car was scrapped and I got £150.
What the hell are those 2 "U" shaped, red clipped, socket looking things between the battery and the air filter unit? paint me dumb, still a mechanic in training
I just bought one of these cars to be a local run arround and it's great. An excellent video which I've learnt a lot from, thanks.
@@newoaknl I had the old Ford KA (2000 model) and now drive the new one (2012 model) and I believe the new drives much better than the old. The engine you get on the new Ford Ka is a Fiat 500, it shares the same engine as Fiat. Most of of the new Ka is a mix-and-match design from Ford and Fiat. The new one has better suspension and much better interior. If you service it well it maintains strong acceleration, even though I believe the new one has a tad less stronger engine than the new one, but I am spitting hairs here. I remember the old one felt like driving a barrel on wheels, you could feel each and every bump but not with the one. Easier to change oil filter on the new one, whereas for the old one it was harder. Unfortunately one similarity the new one has to the old is replacing front lightbulbs, you must remove the whole light fixture to fit your hand, however still it's nothing like the old one where you had to drop the whole front bumper and then unscrew the light fixture ! I'd also say you can get wider tires to fit on the new one. The spare wheel is inside the boot, not underneath like the old one. Plus the new one has electric locks, windows and air con as standard and you can get a key fob to lock/unlock the doors separately from the boot, whereas the old one varied on its edition (mine had absolutely nothing). Word of warning: getting a key fob programmed for the new Ka is quite expensive because you get charged a bit of double the price (Ford and Fiat). Also in my humble opinion you won't find good quality parts for the old one. Kept my old one for almost 5 years and replaced suspensions and shock absorbers among other things, each year there was something that had to be replaced or serviced. The new one is more rigid. Finally, the car tax is much cheaper on the new one, around £30-ish per year (at least for mine) whereas my old one was near £120 cause it was too old. Whenever I had to go for an MOT for my old one there were issues with emissions. The new one has a life-time warranty on its fuel filter, you will never have to replace it.
Top man it's a pity you didn't do plugs really but good advice thanks keep em comming
I’ve started to include plugs now in my videos, thanks for watching mate I appreciate it
Just want to point out that the tube that enters the air filter box is glued to its fixing bracket during manufacture. That glued joint can be easily broken when flexing to remove the airbox. The tubes front facing end is only held by one bolt.. so I suggest removing the tube completely rather than trying to work the box off it. If the glued on fixing does get broken it is possible not to notice.. then the front of this air inlet tube can come out of the hole in the front member and drop down and become half obstructed by the upper cross member, reducing air intake and therefore performance at higher revs. Also, I would suggest running the engine to warm the oil before starting to drain.
Be carefull if removing the airbox assembly completely from the top of the throttle body intake as anything dropping into the throttle body could have consequences. When 'Hand' tightening the oil filter make sure your hand and filter body are squeaky clean, or your tightening may not be sufficient. It's usually said, tighten to contact point then 1/3rd of a turn further. Hope this helps someone avoid any problems. 😊
Thanks mate. Covered all areas for me, just the the spark plug situation for me lol
This is an oil change, can you show how to top up the fluids please?
Very informative! How to change fuel filter maybe you can share a video of it for ford ka
Nice work on servicing the KA,is there going to be a video on the blue one?
Great video, you explain it very nice ! :) .. show some more stuff.. gear oil change, brakes etc.. ;)
Just wanted to say unless your 1.2 is burning oil as its old, the recommended oil for the petrol 1.2 is 5w-40. 5w-30 is for the diesel 1.3.
Great video, really helpful. Chapters would make this even better tho.
Up the Diff fellaaaaaa.
What about the spark plugs.
Thanks buddy 👍🏾💪🏽
Does a ford ka have a pollen filter?
how many belts in this car ? not the timing belt i mean , the out side belts.
Nice video mate, l take it, you were jacket up a bit or you could not of gotten under there.
My AC is blowing out hot air. Have you got a pic video?
Thanks, great video!
Nice and easy on theses 👍👍👍
Nice video.
Hi can you show how to change top strut mounts please
good video
Thank you!
Hi Please could you help as my Ford Ka is coming up with Fuel Cut off switch
i have a problem ford ka 2011 and the systems sas full pompstop has a eror now my car har this error the site belt not working and the start stop is not working and engine in one the dach boord
How much does it cost to change the timing belt and how often we need to change it
I bought a 2012 titanium one last year with 79.400 kms and my mechanic recommended a change on the timing belt set,so i did it.
Before 100k miles
And it’s expensive
@@RW-hx2xe £32 from Ford, if you do it yourself. Haynes manual will help.
@@GeorgeX. Cam belt is every 5 years. Dont' ignore it because if it breaks or the teeth shred themselves, valves will hit the pistons. Been there and got the t shirt with a 207. Car was scrapped and I got £150.
5w-40 C3 is the minimum grade that should be used.
Guys, i need help. Which oil filter do I need?
What the hell are those 2 "U" shaped, red clipped, socket looking things between the battery and the air filter unit? paint me dumb, still a mechanic in training
It is the ECU
@@jakebest1022 ahhh OK thanks!
This is what they charge £120 for? unbelievable, I didn't realise it was so simple!
You pay for the parts, labour and the experience. Never mind the costs that come with running a garage. But yes it is this simple mate!
Hov about fuel filter?😉
Fuel filter didn’t need replacing this time😉
Where is the fuel filter on that one? I can't find it@@BTR_REBUILD
@@andrebautoonly on diesels
Clean the throttle body whilst youre doing this too
SERVICING is not just air filter and oil filter and oil change