Did my first PPF today on a small panel just to learn. I got lots of tiny bubbles. Turns out I just wasn’t pushing hard enough with the squeegee. The slip solution kind of hides small imperfections but as it dries out all these micro bubbles appeared. So you gotta push HARD to force the film to be air tight to the paint. Maybe they would have gone away with time but it looked terrible so I redid it and things came out 99% bubble free on round 2. Also noticed more bubbles on the edges, likely dirt that was forced under from aggressive spraying solution. So the edges and areas where the film overlaps (bulk install) must be surgically clean - zero dirt, wax, etc.
Yeah once you get a feel of the pressure required, it gets much easier. And installing in a clean space with no airflow directly on your car helps a ton. Best of luck as you keep practicing and installing!
1) Good job and thank you for sharing your knowledge. 2) Please make another video how to deal with corners and edges. 3) Which material do you prefer (brand name, prices detail etc.) 4) Many times camera issues because your hand is second object behind another one. Keep great work sir ! :)
2) For corners, i'll typically place the PPF right inside the corner. This makes for a long lasting wrap without the possibility that the corner will peel back and fail. This video of wrapping the Model Y hood gives a good example of that and how I handle rolling over edges - ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html 3) I usually work with Avery, STEK, or XPEL I'll take note of these ideas for future videos, but hopefully this helps for now!
Lift it as soon as you see the line, spray a ton of slip solution underneath and then squeegee hard in the opposite direction than what you originally did.
I use 5ml of seventh gen dish soap with 1000ml of distilled or filtered water. I have it dialed with our shop temp but this can vary depending on your environment so adjust accordingly.
Slip solution helps move the film in place. It's made up of dish soap and water. Tack solution is alcohol and water and it is used to flush out the slip solution and adhere certain areas in place. You can learn more about the solutions here: ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html and we have several videos like this one that can help you get the hang of install practices: ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html
Thank for your Very useful tips ,can i know what solution you are spraying and what its composition (tac solution, slip solution)? Is the film resistant to bird droppings?
Slip: 5ml of soap (we use 7th gen dish soap) to 1000 ml of distilled water Tack: 80% distilled water to 20% of 70% isopropyl alcohol PPF is resistant to bird droppings due to some hydrophobic properties, but I would still try to get them off within a week as they can etch into the film. PPF will make it easier to clean though
Did you ever make another video on getting rid of air bubbles =x have a couple on my install - smaller than a nickel, but sounds like air bubbles don’t really go away on their own?
We haven't yet, but if you feel comfortable doing this, you can insert a syringe with a very small needle at an angle (don't go far) and then suck the air out.
Slip is to move the PPF around and slide it into place. Tack is to flush the slip solution out when it's in place and let the PPF adhere better. Here's more info on slip and tack solutions - ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html - and a better idea of how they work together here - ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html
Ok. But later when you come to park in the garage I have spare tires against the wall I run into to prevent hitting the wall. Problem is the tension can raise up some of the film so what's best way to get rid of raised film spots? Hair dryer and mild heat maybe?
High heat would be best. Just keep the dryer moving about 6 inches away from the film, heat it up to where it's more malleable, then squeegee slowly from side to side down the fingers or raised areas. This will be a dry fix, so no need to have slip or tack.
What’s the difference between slip and tack solutions? Do you need both? Can you do the whole project with just slip, or tack? I’m a little confused.. trying to install precut ppf and unsure if I need both solutions(slip and tack) to complete the job. Thanks.
Slip solution helps move the PPF in place, and tack solution flushes out the slip to make it adhere in place. You use way more slip to install ppf, but both are needed. Here is a video on slip and tack: ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html and here is a video on installing ppf on a bumper that may help give you an idea of how both solutions are used: ruclips.net/video/3YV-M-NeZQQ/видео.html
isn't dish soap in your slip solution going to ruin some of the clear coat? like shouldn't car soap be used instead? or no because car soaps have wax in it
It’ll be a lot harder that way because when you spray it, it’ll want to come down. And if you try to reach in and get it out, you risk adding more contamination under the film. Try to work with gravity when removing any debris if possible
Yes, cheap PPF can be harder to work with. They usually have lower-quality adhesive, making it harder to apply smoothly without bubbles or edges lifting. It can also tear or stretch easier during application. It might not be as thick or flexible as premium options, making it more difficult to mold to the contours of the vehicle. And overall, it will most likely have poor clarity.
i have fingers that won't stay down even while pressing it down multiple times, what suggestions do you have? i don't wanna take it back up but its a bit annoying
Without seeing it, it's hard to give advice but typically if you can't get it to stay down with tack and holding it down for a bit with your squeegee - even using a microfiber to soak up any moisture around it - then the next best thing is to use a heat gun and a dry squeegee and slowly work your way down the finger from side to side while heating about 6-8 inches away. Make sure it's on the highest heat
bruh no way fingers are that easy I tried to do a set of headlights and I got some fingers in a corner, I damaged the ppf by going to fast cuz my head was exploding 😭
You can definitely try if it’s going to bother you too much. Use a lot of slip solution on top and underneath the film and remove it slowly. It will be a risk but you can always replace it if it doesn’t work out. Better to look good rather than suffer for years with it like that
What can I do about really small but noticeable fingers along the wheel well that always come back overnight? Maybe 2mm wide at the opening and 2mm tall. It's been a couple days and multiple times a day I press them down, but then they pop back overnight or during the day. It seems like maybe the adhesive is compromised at this point and will never stick down
I have similar problem on my PPF installed on headlight. Those wrinkles at the edge really drive me mad. The hot gun did not help. Desperately, I cut the wrinkles part. It ain't good but I can live with it.
Hi, I have a question regarding the PPF (Paint Protection Film) product you are selling. In hot weather conditions, such as when temperatures rise over 110 degrees Fahrenheit in California, would the PPF start melting similar to what happens when hot water is applied to its surface for removal? Thank you for your assistance in clarifying this.
Great question! No, PPF’s melting point is around 347 degrees F, so you don’t have to worry about that. PPF being on your car in the summer is especially helpful in protecting against UV rays and self healing scratches.
It's going to be 10x harder to install outdoors since the temperature, humidity, wind, and debris can't be controlled. I would find a friend with a garage if you can. If it's too hot or too cold alone, you'll have a hard time.
Pull it back past the line, spray a lot of slip solution, and then squeegee the opposition direction. So if the line was 180, squeegee sideways and then down.
A lot of ceramic comes with hydrophobic properties nowadays (just check with your installer) but that only lasts about 6 months. If you want 2-3 years, then you can put a coating on top like this
What about raised bumps in the front bumper? They are almost feel hard to the touch. Is this from rock chips, debris or something else? PPF installer said bumper needs to be sanded down and repainted for these not to be appear. Not sure if they are telling the truth. Any thoughts?
Hard to say without seeing it, but if it’s bumpy, it could be multiple things like rock chips or paint contamination. I’d start with clay bar and then if still bumpy, decide if it needs to be sanded. But usually if it is a rock chip, I'd do paint touch up and then you'd still feel bumps and they are right. Unless you sand and repaint, you will feel that bump. If you want to send photos via email to support@tesbros.com or twitter/instagram @teslabros, I can give you a better answer
tesbros.com/ - Here's the Model Y kit page: tesbros.com/products/diy-protection-kit-for-model-y-build-your-own-bundle and the Model 3: tesbros.com/products/diy-front-protection-kit-ppf-for-model-3 We'll come out with more soon!
Thanks for all your pro tips Brother! Best wrap channel on youtube!!!!
I appreciate that! Glad they’re helpful!
Very helpful video... please I need more videos like this ..
Did my first PPF today on a small panel just to learn. I got lots of tiny bubbles. Turns out I just wasn’t pushing hard enough with the squeegee. The slip solution kind of hides small imperfections but as it dries out all these micro bubbles appeared. So you gotta push HARD to force the film to be air tight to the paint. Maybe they would have gone away with time but it looked terrible so I redid it and things came out 99% bubble free on round 2. Also noticed more bubbles on the edges, likely dirt that was forced under from aggressive spraying solution. So the edges and areas where the film overlaps (bulk install) must be surgically clean - zero dirt, wax, etc.
Yeah once you get a feel of the pressure required, it gets much easier. And installing in a clean space with no airflow directly on your car helps a ton. Best of luck as you keep practicing and installing!
These are great tips. Thanks for this video.
Glad it was helpful!
1) Good job and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
2) Please make another video how to deal with corners and edges.
3) Which material do you prefer (brand name, prices detail etc.)
4) Many times camera issues because your hand is second object behind another one.
Keep great work sir ! :)
2) For corners, i'll typically place the PPF right inside the corner. This makes for a long lasting wrap without the possibility that the corner will peel back and fail. This video of wrapping the Model Y hood gives a good example of that and how I handle rolling over edges - ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html
3) I usually work with Avery, STEK, or XPEL
I'll take note of these ideas for future videos, but hopefully this helps for now!
Nice job MAN.THANKS.
wonderful video
Tanks man . Nice job !
Glad it helped!
Excellent tuition. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very usefull video. Congrats!
Happy to help!
Thank you very much for the information.
Glad it was helpful!
I wish my Tesla jacket still fit 😮💨 they always had awesome gear
they do!
What about silvering and lift lines
Lift it as soon as you see the line, spray a ton of slip solution underneath and then squeegee hard in the opposite direction than what you originally did.
Excellent!
Can you also tell us about the mixture of the spray solution? We would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance.
I use 5ml of seventh gen dish soap with 1000ml of distilled or filtered water. I have it dialed with our shop temp but this can vary depending on your environment so adjust accordingly.
Yes very helpful. I am looking to start ppf wrapping my own vehicle. What is the difference between slip solution and tack solution ??
Slip solution helps move the film in place. It's made up of dish soap and water. Tack solution is alcohol and water and it is used to flush out the slip solution and adhere certain areas in place. You can learn more about the solutions here: ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html and we have several videos like this one that can help you get the hang of install practices: ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html
I did my first ppf install on my m3 rocker panels Wednesday. And where were you(vid)😂
Bad timing 😅 how did it turn out?
Thank for your Very useful tips ,can i know what solution you are spraying and what its composition (tac solution, slip solution)? Is the film resistant to bird droppings?
Slip: 5ml of soap (we use 7th gen dish soap) to 1000 ml of distilled water
Tack: 80% distilled water to 20% of 70% isopropyl alcohol
PPF is resistant to bird droppings due to some hydrophobic properties, but I would still try to get them off within a week as they can etch into the film. PPF will make it easier to clean though
@@tesbros I Thank you so much
Did you ever make another video on getting rid of air bubbles =x have a couple on my install - smaller than a nickel, but sounds like air bubbles don’t really go away on their own?
We haven't yet, but if you feel comfortable doing this, you can insert a syringe with a very small needle at an angle (don't go far) and then suck the air out.
Thanks for this. What is slip solution? And tack solution? Thanks
Slip is to move the PPF around and slide it into place. Tack is to flush the slip solution out when it's in place and let the PPF adhere better. Here's more info on slip and tack solutions - ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html - and a better idea of how they work together here - ruclips.net/video/Khoy38WLrGY/видео.html
Ok. But later when you come to park in the garage I have spare tires against the wall I run into to prevent hitting the wall. Problem is the tension can raise up some of the film so what's best way to get rid of raised film spots? Hair dryer and mild heat maybe?
High heat would be best. Just keep the dryer moving about 6 inches away from the film, heat it up to where it's more malleable, then squeegee slowly from side to side down the fingers or raised areas. This will be a dry fix, so no need to have slip or tack.
Where do I find the PDF Guideline?
What’s the difference between slip and tack solutions? Do you need both? Can you do the whole project with just slip, or tack? I’m a little confused.. trying to install precut ppf and unsure if I need both solutions(slip and tack) to complete the job. Thanks.
Slip solution helps move the PPF in place, and tack solution flushes out the slip to make it adhere in place. You use way more slip to install ppf, but both are needed. Here is a video on slip and tack: ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html and here is a video on installing ppf on a bumper that may help give you an idea of how both solutions are used: ruclips.net/video/3YV-M-NeZQQ/видео.html
isn't dish soap in your slip solution going to ruin some of the clear coat? like shouldn't car soap be used instead? or no because car soaps have wax in it
Dish soap won’t hurt. And yeah wax wouldn’t be good. You need a very basic soap. Some people use baby shampoo
Why wouldn't you pull the hair out from the top of the fender?
It’ll be a lot harder that way because when you spray it, it’ll want to come down. And if you try to reach in and get it out, you risk adding more contamination under the film. Try to work with gravity when removing any debris if possible
Is cheap ppf hard to work with
Yes, cheap PPF can be harder to work with. They usually have lower-quality adhesive, making it harder to apply smoothly without bubbles or edges lifting. It can also tear or stretch easier during application. It might not be as thick or flexible as premium options, making it more difficult to mold to the contours of the vehicle. And overall, it will most likely have poor clarity.
@@tesbros ok thanks had a friend using cheap stuff looked ruff to install....
Yeah that can be a pain for sure
i have fingers that won't stay down even while pressing it down multiple times, what suggestions do you have? i don't wanna take it back up but its a bit annoying
Without seeing it, it's hard to give advice but typically if you can't get it to stay down with tack and holding it down for a bit with your squeegee - even using a microfiber to soak up any moisture around it - then the next best thing is to use a heat gun and a dry squeegee and slowly work your way down the finger from side to side while heating about 6-8 inches away. Make sure it's on the highest heat
@@tesbros right so this is after it has dried and there is no water in it. I tried the heat gun but it wasn’t on the hottest
bruh no way fingers are that easy I tried to do a set of headlights and I got some fingers in a corner, I damaged the ppf by going to fast cuz my head was exploding 😭
I had a long string under mine after it dried for more than an hour can I still safely take it up and fix it ? This will drive me nuts
You can definitely try if it’s going to bother you too much. Use a lot of slip solution on top and underneath the film and remove it slowly. It will be a risk but you can always replace it if it doesn’t work out. Better to look good rather than suffer for years with it like that
@@tesbros got it and much better. Lots a slip helped. Thanks
@@88omarz glad to hear it
What can I do about really small but noticeable fingers along the wheel well that always come back overnight? Maybe 2mm wide at the opening and 2mm tall. It's been a couple days and multiple times a day I press them down, but then they pop back overnight or during the day. It seems like maybe the adhesive is compromised at this point and will never stick down
Try hitting it with a heat gun (or hair dryer) and then hold down for 10 seconds with finger
I have similar problem on my PPF installed on headlight. Those wrinkles at the edge really drive me mad. The hot gun did not help. Desperately, I cut the wrinkles part. It ain't good but I can live with it.
Hi,
I have a question regarding the PPF (Paint Protection Film) product you are selling. In hot weather conditions, such as when temperatures rise over 110 degrees Fahrenheit in California, would the PPF start melting similar to what happens when hot water is applied to its surface for removal?
Thank you for your assistance in clarifying this.
Great question! No, PPF’s melting point is around 347 degrees F, so you don’t have to worry about that. PPF being on your car in the summer is especially helpful in protecting against UV rays and self healing scratches.
Is there any way of lifting factory paint of the painted bumper during stretching on bulk installation on the rear bumper?
No, installation shouldn't harm OEM paint at all
I bought some pre cut ppf and accidentally installed it the wrong side , wondering why it wasn’t sticking….
That must have been a frustrating install!
@@tesbros I’m just an idiot but it worked out , mad bubbles but it’s my own fault
I don’t have indoor garage, any recommendations for someone who’s installing it outdoor?
It's going to be 10x harder to install outdoors since the temperature, humidity, wind, and debris can't be controlled. I would find a friend with a garage if you can. If it's too hot or too cold alone, you'll have a hard time.
how do you get rid of lines showing up after having to lift up part of the film? the line shows up where the ppf was lifted to?
Pull it back past the line, spray a lot of slip solution, and then squeegee the opposition direction. So if the line was 180, squeegee sideways and then down.
Thanks I will give it a try next time!@@tesbros
do you have to put ceramic coating on ppf? or is it build in?
A lot of ceramic comes with hydrophobic properties nowadays (just check with your installer) but that only lasts about 6 months. If you want 2-3 years, then you can put a coating on top like this
Where did you get your jacket!?
Tesla in the Netherlands
What about raised bumps in the front bumper? They are almost feel hard to the touch. Is this from rock chips, debris or something else? PPF installer said bumper needs to be sanded down and repainted for these not to be appear. Not sure if they are telling the truth. Any thoughts?
Hard to say without seeing it, but if it’s bumpy, it could be multiple things like rock chips or paint contamination. I’d start with clay bar and then if still bumpy, decide if it needs to be sanded. But usually if it is a rock chip, I'd do paint touch up and then you'd still feel bumps and they are right. Unless you sand and repaint, you will feel that bump. If you want to send photos via email to support@tesbros.com or twitter/instagram @teslabros, I can give you a better answer
What is you website to order precuts?
tesbros.com/ - Here's the Model Y kit page: tesbros.com/products/diy-protection-kit-for-model-y-build-your-own-bundle and the Model 3: tesbros.com/products/diy-front-protection-kit-ppf-for-model-3 We'll come out with more soon!
Do you sell Toyota ppfs?
Not at this time. What kind of Toyota do you have?
@@tesbros gotcha, I have a Toyota 4Runner TRD offroad
2 rules
Squeegee in mouth or bucket. Also don’t trust anybody who can’t talk with squeegee in their mouth 😂
It's a skill you didn't know you needed 😂
What are the solutions you’re using? I need a list of materials 🥲 thanks
Here’s how we make our slip and tack solutions:
ruclips.net/video/ppYK7PH9MDI/видео.html and we use 7th gen dish soap for the slip