Nice to see you painting the walls again mate!! Looking good. I think I need to go down the Haltech track at some point. Be very interested to see her on the Dyno!
I have a really.dumb question...watching you splice the wires. The wire comes into the cab from the sensor under the hood, you unpin the corresponding wire from the connector going into the pnp module and connect those two wires. What are you reinserting back into the connector that goes into the pnp module?
Nice work mate keep it up, I have one question bear with me it may a stupid one. Can you connect the sensors to the OEM gauges and if you can is it sample or difficult or you need to aftermarket gauge ?
Hey mate, not a dumb question. The factory gauges all have their own sensors and removing the factory ecu doesn’t effect this. So all I did was identify where the oil pressure and boost reference factory sensors were and left them as is. (Obviously didn’t touch anything to do with the torque split gauge) As long as you leave them installed the gauges work fine with the aftermarket ecu 🤘🏼
How did you work the fuel pump situation? I’m trying to wire in a frenchys dual pump with a fore controller and getting stuck on splicing it into the plug n play harness.
Not sure I understand exactly what you mean. Good rule of thumb for any fuel pump install is to run a dedicated relay and power feed for each pump, and then Haltech uses output to control the relays (seperate or together, same same)
@@BuiltByBlake yes what I found out is my fore controller needs signal to be 12v and the haltech dpo5 is signal to ground so I just need to invert the relay to have it give proper signal
Sure am mate. Oil is fitted down on my oil filter relocation kit. Water is fitted in the oem spot for me, which is on the motor and I’ve have zero issues so far.
As a fellow 260 owner im enjoying these videos, although im going down the single route im definitely going down the haltech route. Did you buy R33 GTR plug and play harness or a c34 stagea one?
@@BuiltByBlake Look if im being honest i appreciate you going this route so i can atleast see what it looks like haha! Yep okay thats good! I had read some comments around random places that you had to change 1-2 pins to get the AC to work or something but thanks for confirming!
@@Matthew-ne2iu I read the same. I rang haltech and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He said it's a random thing, some stags have to change the Aircon pin and some don't. I wouldn't get hung up on it, would only take 2mins to swap, and haltech helpline will 100% walk you through it if need be.
Something tells me you didn't update the injector flow cc's or dead times with those afr's 🤣 good work tho. Once you get the confidence to do what you are doing, it all starts making sense and getting easier and better 👍👍👍
So funny you say that! Haha. It didn't make the video because it made for boring content. But since you mention it. Yes, it took me about 3 hours to figure out my 1000cc injectors were firing at the factory 440cc rate. So dumping bulk fuel for absolutely no reason haha. Learning curve 😅
Just got the word from the importer that we won the auction and I've bought myself a 260RS. And Blake's got a new video out. Today's a good day.
LETS GO!! Welcome to the club fellow super yacht owner ⛵
Nice to see you painting the walls again mate!! Looking good. I think I need to go down the Haltech track at some point. Be very interested to see her on the Dyno!
Next episode! Dyno day!!
I have a really.dumb question...watching you splice the wires. The wire comes into the cab from the sensor under the hood, you unpin the corresponding wire from the connector going into the pnp module and connect those two wires. What are you reinserting back into the connector that goes into the pnp module?
Nice work mate keep it up, I have one question bear with me it may a stupid one.
Can you connect the sensors to the OEM gauges and if you can is it sample or difficult or you need to aftermarket gauge ?
Hey mate, not a dumb question. The factory gauges all have their own sensors and removing the factory ecu doesn’t effect this.
So all I did was identify where the oil pressure and boost reference factory sensors were and left them as is. (Obviously didn’t touch anything to do with the torque split gauge)
As long as you leave them installed the gauges work fine with the aftermarket ecu 🤘🏼
is it worth leaving the stock ecu to control ac?
Thanks for the useful tips! Would the sequential manifold be similar on a 35? Asking for a friend.
How did you work the fuel pump situation? I’m trying to wire in a frenchys dual pump with a fore controller and getting stuck on splicing it into the plug n play harness.
Not sure I understand exactly what you mean.
Good rule of thumb for any fuel pump install is to run a dedicated relay and power feed for each pump, and then Haltech uses output to control the relays (seperate or together, same same)
@@BuiltByBlake yes what I found out is my fore controller needs signal to be 12v and the haltech dpo5 is signal to ground so I just need to invert the relay to have it give proper signal
Great work
Hey man are you using the Bosch temp/pressure sensors? How did you mount them away from engine vibrations and still get a fluid temp reading?
Sure am mate. Oil is fitted down on my oil filter relocation kit. Water is fitted in the oem spot for me, which is on the motor and I’ve have zero issues so far.
@@BuiltByBlake legends thanks man I completely forgot about oil filter relocation kits 😅
@@BuiltByBlake did you mount the sensor to the actual block mount or the filter mount?
I put my on my filter mount (not on the block directly). I did a video on my oil filter relocation if you want to see where I’m talking about
eyyyy golbeys.... Top blokes. Got a few things for my 1j cressida from the boys. Great service, great prices and fucking quick postage.
Can agree with that. Have got nothing but good things to say about golbeys... + Their stubby holders can take a beating 🍻🍻
@@BuiltByBlake yeah. Got shit sent reg postage and arrived like it was sent express!. Might have to get one of the stubby holders with next order :D
As a fellow 260 owner im enjoying these videos, although im going down the single route im definitely going down the haltech route. Did you buy R33 GTR plug and play harness or a c34 stagea one?
Glad your going single...I wish I did already haha.
33gtr PNP harness mate, I didn't have to change a thing, all worked perfect 🤘🏼
@@BuiltByBlake Look if im being honest i appreciate you going this route so i can atleast see what it looks like haha!
Yep okay thats good! I had read some comments around random places that you had to change 1-2 pins to get the AC to work or something but thanks for confirming!
@@Matthew-ne2iu I read the same. I rang haltech and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He said it's a random thing, some stags have to change the Aircon pin and some don't. I wouldn't get hung up on it, would only take 2mins to swap, and haltech helpline will 100% walk you through it if need be.
Okay I’m a professional now time to go do it to my 33 hahaha
I'm now thinking the same thing for my s15! lol
you are so cool!
Something tells me you didn't update the injector flow cc's or dead times with those afr's 🤣 good work tho. Once you get the confidence to do what you are doing, it all starts making sense and getting easier and better 👍👍👍
So funny you say that! Haha. It didn't make the video because it made for boring content. But since you mention it. Yes, it took me about 3 hours to figure out my 1000cc injectors were firing at the factory 440cc rate. So dumping bulk fuel for absolutely no reason haha. Learning curve 😅
Dyno baby!
The plug play harness are just way out priced. For 3000gt it's 700$ heck with that.
Bosco Harbors
Pretty bad when these technologically advanced aftermarket racing ecu's are cheaper than an ECU for a BMW that is 16 years old
Angela Fork
May I book a time or a date.
And when can I register