Drill Bit Sharpening • Do It Yourself - Making The Jig • Video 2 (UPDATED)
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2013
- VSC Tools now has a steel production version of this jig available.
vsctools.com/shop/drill-bit-sh...
Playlist featuring the new sharpening jig. • Twist Drill Bit Sharpe...
This is a replacement video for the previous video 2 in this 2 video series. In this video I correct a major math error I made in the original video 2 about making the drill bit sharpening jig. In this improved video I show an even better method for making this basic jig. I also show a simple elevation adjustor for the jig.
Thank you for the tutorial,, I made 3 medium groove sliding jigs(as I knew friends would want one),, now I will made a large groove jig to handle the larger bits,,,they work really great 😊. You did GREAT. Says an 80 yr old girl enjoying learning SMART/CLEVER sharing. They are easy to make with your method. St Paul, Mn
Wow, a person that can admit he made a mistake. One in a million. Great video.
Thank you Allan...for your generosity, modesty, creativity and great demeanor- you are the kind of person that I really like a lot!
Your openness about making a correction gives your words credibility.
At one time I had a person say to me:"You are the best welder I have ever seen!".
I responded by saying: "NO; I am just quick at repairing my mistakes!"
Thank You for making video's.
Thank you for watching and taking your time to leave such a positive comment. Allan
@CornishFolie I always try to start off at the theoretical exact because things will vary from there. But you are correct. Even free handing bits on the grinder is far from precise yet still produces results that work.
Just found your channel. Thanks so much for making these videos! They're a great help for someone who's relatively new to woodworking. I'm sure I'm one of many who very much appreciate it
Thanks a lot. When I was first getting started I was shown some things that would have taken a long time to figure out without a push in the right direction. I never forget that. I am not one of those guys who keeps techniques secret. Some people object to my long winded approach, but woodworking is all about the details so I try to include all the nuance and reasoning. It is my style and I am sticking with it :) Keep in touch. Allan
Besides the valuable advice and techniques given, you impress me as being an able and honourable man. You are not afraid to admit errors and you are willing to acknowledge and implement corrections given by others without the need of cover-ups. You should be President.
Thanks for the kind words. But I think I am right where I am supposed to be. Allan
Thanks for taking the time to make it simple. I have always struggled with bits. Going to make a jig tomorrow!
Love these sharpening videos!!! It really helps! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!!!!
Many thnx AskWoodMan! Now I can see how a proper jig is made into the plywood holder.
That looks like it'll be a real handy jig in the shop! Thanks for sharing!!
Got to respect someone who is willing to admit his mistakes. Great stuff. Thanks
And it is just a few pennies of scrap to make a simple tool that solves a big problem we all have. Thanks for writing and watching. Allan
Thanks for showing your re-calculations as I may run into a similar problem. I enjoyed both videos however...
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE.YOU HAVE HELPED ME A GREAT DEAL.IT TAKES A GOOD MAN TO HELP OTHERS.
Great video! Totally gonna try this. Simple and practical. I am going to try this, but I can see two mods I may want to do. 1. Have some sort of stop going from side to side for safety of them fingers and 2. Thinking about perhaps a Forster bit hole in the centre of that V to allow more finger access to hold smaller bits.
This is your BEST Video yet! You did a wonderful tutorial on this. I’ll have to review the video and write down the angle you used on the table saw..
i still have to get around to sharpening my bits lol.. but I have this in mind now. love the clarity of your videos and simple clear explanations.
Very interesting and the correction is really appreciated and almost unheard of, these days. Thanks
Fabulous presentation.Thanks for devoting your time so as to make my time easier. Cheers
I wish I could show you a photo of the sharpening jig that I made two days ago after watching your first video. I’ve made it out of steel. It will never wear out, it can be thrown in the floor and it will always be perfect. It took me just a couple of minutes to make so quicker than a wooden one too. Thanks for the idea as I’ve never had an issue sharpening drills over about 8mm but these jigs are great for smaller drills. They are also a great reference for just getting back to a good angle sometimes….
perfect explaining and also very use full to others
It was interesting to me that even when the drills were sharpened to 124 degrees, they still cut excellently. I have done some additional reading and it seems that the 118 degree angle is not cast in stone, and the nominal is 20 degrees. The 118 degrees was simply adopted over the years as a standard. Apparently, 135 and 140 degree cutting angles are preferred for harder metals because the higher angle requires less torque and causes less heat build up. Great videos. I appreciate them all.
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As the old saying goes, "If a man hasn't made a mistake, then he hasn't made anything". Thank you for posting, and I apologise for saying that you would show how to make the jig in a previous video when I said that you did not. My mistake!!!!! Made loads of them and loads of things!
Brilliant!I was just going to throw away a bunch of drillbits.Splendid brain,mr.Little!
My dad was a tool&die maker and I watched him, every time that he picked up a bit, he would startup the grinder and in seconds touch up the point. Out would come tight curls at the drill press. I failed miserably in my first year machinist apprentice class to master drill bit sharpening. This jig is a great asset.
Thanks man! Keep it up - I need all the help I can get... I like the fact that you point out your error so that I don't have to make one!
Thanks Richard. It was a doozy too. I did not even realize it until I got a message yesterday afternoon. I just wanted to correct my mistake as quickly as possible to minimize any potential frustration I may have caused. Thanks for watching. Allan
Thanks for the tip. I made a very smal jig today to sharpen drill bits starting at size 2 mm up to 8 mm. Works like a charm.
1959Berre Excellent. Thanks for writing. Allan
My last one worked great. But I will make another one. When I want to keep a tool I paint it. People don't seem to throw away or keep painted jigs. Thank you very much for sharing!
YOU ARE A GREAT MAN AND CRAFTSMAN
I learned a lot, THANK YOU
Wow, excellent video and even better information. From the sound of the background music, can we safely assume you're either in the Austin or Dallas area?
Austin. About 4 blocks from Zilker Park.
I have a Drill Doctor sharpener...but I'm going to make a copy of your machine I was pleased to note that go with the flow in designing a tool.;making adjustments to the design as issues or concern arise..I do it also TY 4 sharing
Thanks for the video, I made one and it works well.I didn't understand the use of the hard wood on the front side. Is it a must?
Thanks Amigo'' will be making one for sure!
Your jig is the very best method I know of for sharpening bits! I have an old Drill Doctor and it is a mess. Thanks for posting this.
I have a question. How do you align (looking down on the bit - left to right) the bit when starting to grind the initial angle? This is really a problem when the bit has been terribly ground in the past. I hope I clearly described the issue. Thanks…
Thanks for this great little vid. Quick question: is there any value in sloping the V-slot downwards towards the grinder so that the flank-relief angle behind the cutting edge would arise by default? I guess it would be easy to set up a stepped (rather than single, as in the vid) rebate that would allow a selection of pre-calibrated relief angles of, say, 10, 12.5 and 15 degrees. Thanks in advance from the UK.
This jig only cuts the facet and it is up to us to make sure both are symmetric. But that is really easy just by examining visually. I think it is very obvious when they are not, and then a whisper touch up can be made. Like I mentioned, this method is not comparable to a tool room grinding setup, but for just touching up a bit and getting back to work, it works really well. With this method you can always make any twist bit cut one more time so we can just get on with it.
Great video,would u ever consider making one to sell. i sure would like to purchase one!! I do not have the machine to make the cuts on the board. thanks Liked and subscribed.
Thanks for the update Allan.
great help video i will be making my own jig many thanks.
seems best of all so far,,, / might include making 2 or 3 differant width slider boards to accomadate the smallest an longest & largest diameter bits,, especially on the very smallest bits use a small vice grip or such device to clamp to the bit as an indicator of the rotational position of the bit plus it gives you an indication of the opposite cutting edge and gives you a positive control handle while grinding the bit. and with the vice grip no extra angle is required to grind the correct working edge angle, apply wax or teflon on sliding surfaces, regards,
Thanks so much cap'm. U got mad skilz fosho.
Thanks .very good way to work .Save money without buying new bit.thank s in deed
really helpful and honest.
When you sharpen your bits like this does the very tippy top of the point end up exactly in the middle of the bit or do you have to eyeball it, or is close good enough?
THANKS...A GREAT IDEA..
Wondering about the vertical position of the jig relative to the curved grinding wheel?
when you were cutting the groove on the table saw, it looked like you were freehanding it without locking anything down. How did you get it so straight?
Well done. Where do you start on a broken bit
Great video. Save me a lot money
Great stuff thank you!
Thank you for that info
Is that glued together 3/4” ply?
Ok thanks for the info
great idea im gonna make 2 left and right hand thanks
Thanks for the info but I still like my Drill Dr. It works great.
Thanks! I don't have a table saw so making these would be difficult.
very good (ممتاز)
Thank you for this. I live in a rural region of Moldova, so I don't have a shop nearby that could sharpen the drill bits, nor do I have a special sharpener. I was always wondering why my drill bits cut so much worse after I sharpened them.
+Dumitru Ursu Thanks Dumitru. I hope this will work for you as well as it does for me. Allan
+AskWoodMan I finally made the jig - it's perfect! I've made it from a solid piece of wood though - I didn't have around such thick plywood. I was hindered until now because I didn't had a tool rest, and that is done too.
Now, if you don't mind:
I have a few drill bits, on the bigger end of the "spectrum" - they fit in a weird soviet chuck (the design may not be soviet though, I just found out it's called a Morse chuck). The thing is that they have a very steep angle, and they are large (16-30mm). Since they are older than I am, I have no clue what the original angle might looked like - should I keep that acute angle, or taper it down? I drill mostly wood, and soft steel from time to time.
+Dumitru Ursu I am familiar with Morse taper drill bits. Morse taper drill bits are often used in lathe tail stocks. There is still a tool company here in the US called Morse. Their products are really good. Will you send me some pictures of your drill bits so I can make sure I answer your question correctly? My email is askwoodman@gmail.com I would also like to see your drill press and grinding setup. I am always interested in tools and machinery. Allan
I gotta try making one myself. Diy all the way!
Muito bem gostei 👍
very nice
Would this jig work for left hand drill bits ? Thank you good video
Not this jig since it is made for right hand bits. But all you would need to do is make the V in the opposite orientation.
egész jó!hali
thanks bro
That is a great idea! Have you thought about selling these jigs for sharpening drill bits? I don't have the table saw or other way to make something like this. How much would it cost me to get a couple of these made so I can sharpen my drill bits? Thank you.
Sell it on ebay. I'll take a couple. or else I need to talk the old hag into a table saw.
I am surprised anyone noticed the angle. I would think 124 degrees would probably cut just about as well as 118 - maybe even better on steel.
I made mine on my compound miter saw, glued and pin nailed a narrow 1/4" thick piece of plywood instead of making the large dado.
Music festival down the street and here you are making tools, 🤦🏽♂️ jk. Thanks for the video.
Need to make one of these, but I'm still confused? If 118 is the standard degree, then it WOULD be 62 degrees rather than 59 to make it an even 180 plane? In any event, thanks for the simple and useful videos. Much appreciated.
It is 59 degrees. Lay it out with a cardboard template like I showed in plywood and it will make sense. I had it wrong at 62 because it is confusing.
Thanks!
By definition the 118° angle is the "included angle between the two cutting edges" of the drill bit. Once we understand this, half that 118° face angle is 59° but this angle is measured perpendicular to the drill shank. To mark the angle from the drill face to the grinding wheel face, you have to subtract the 59° from 90° = 31° from the grind wheel face to the drill bit face.
Let's state this another way. The face angle of the drill bit is 118°. So there would be 180-118= 62°, or 31° at the grind wheel face on each side.
Hope this helps.
Garson
Could you explain the math here. I would use 118 degrees and I don't know why 59 is correct. Thanks.
118 is the included angle of both ground surfaces. Watch the first video.
I'm not sure why you have to put your miter sled at 31 degrees, but I imagine it must have to do with the compound angle between that and the table saw. But, if you were to use a 90 degree v-groove router bit, couldn't you then just set the miter sled at 59 degrees directly?
90-31=59. Don't understand your v bit router comment. This is a table saw.
AskWoodMan
Yes, well, I would recommend using a router bit in a router, attached to a router table, with a miter sled. I was just thinking that such a setup would carve out the "V" shape into the plywood, and you'd just need to set the sled to 59 degrees.
jlyonm
I rarely use a router table and don't have a v bit nearly that big. But if you can make it work go for it.
I also use an angle of 31 degrees and my tool rest is just above the centerline of the grinding wheel, I seriously don't know how a setting of 59 degrees works.
Hello two good videos here, only small problem I can think of is keeping both ground sides equal, there's another video I've watched where a man uses a bit of MDF with a bent nail in, he puts blunt end of bit onto nail end and uses corner of sharp ends to scribe two lines that are scratched onto felt pen marks, both marks should coincide.
PS, only problem there is that the bit needs a drilled hole in it's end to sit on the nail end!
Visual inspection of symmetry works for me.
How about using a chopsaw to cut two pieces then glue them to the final jig?
Giussepe Soliel Not really following that but would love to see your method. I don't use a chop saw or sliding compound miter saw but could see how the V could be cut really quickly with sliding compound miter saw if it was one of the models that had a depth lock. Your comment made me think how easy this would be. Maybe someone with one of those saws will knock out a jig and share it with me to show another method.
AskWoodMan I think he might mean to cut the end of 2 boards with compound miters on them and then attach those to a backboard with the 2 miter points facing each other to create the notch.
AskWoodMan I would assume that he means to cut 2 pieces of wood with a compound miter on 1 end. The saw would be set at 45* and angled to the 31*. You then attach those 2 pieces with the angles facing each other and the tips touching on a back board.
Thats what i mean yes. :)
That would work, yes. You could also simply attach a piece of wood like some 3/4 by 3/4 onto a piece of board at the desired angle. Not as quite as nice, but will still work.
I'm going try your way, with your device.
Loose from the hand drill grinding fails me LOL
I think you will like this method. It is very simple and has practically no setup time once you make the jig. That is what I like about it. If I am drilling and realize the bit I am using is not cutting, I can touch it up and be back to work in just a few minutes.
Thanks, you are forgiven!
What were all the angles again
Replay. Pay attention.
Graet video, but why is it so importend that the angle is ecacktly 59 degrees and not 62?
The drill bit is 118degree including angle. 118/2=59
I would like to buy one from you, please sell me one
👍👍
why 59 deg instead of 62?
Because 59 degrees is the correct angle.
It took me a minute but I found this smithy.com/machining-handbook/chapter-6/page/4
You are looking for 59 + 59 = 118, rather than 180 - 118 = 62
I was just pinning it with my clamp hands :)
Oh I see......I tried to follow exactly how as yr first video, unfortunately it turned out not good......😂😂😂
i need you to make me one
√☆ ★♬ ♪♩♪ good
If not for mistakes nobody would be here.
How can we ever trust you again?