BONDO ON CURED EPOXY | BODY FILLER ON CURED EPOXY | DIFFERENT BRANDS OF BODY FILLER ON EPOXY
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- In this video we're going to use 4 different types of body filler on epoxy primer and see which one gives us the best adhesion. We are going to try it on open epoxy primer as well as fully cured epoxy.
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This test really helped confirm that bondo can be applied on top of epoxy primer. There are so many mixed messages out there. I’m currently working on a project. Thank you for the post.
100%
Im doing my 84 SS Monte Carlo it has been soda blasted and epoxy primed ive been back and forth on this Everyone you ask you get 10 different answers and you just confirmed what im going to do! Thank you for your knowledge and time great video!
yes sir put that mud on epoxy, I still feel better giving it a scratch to adhere to on the epoxy. Thanks for watching
Really enjoy your videos 🤝keep posting
Thank you, filming more already!!
Excellent test. Thank you
It would do epoxy is a type of fiberglass resin that's why it's waterproof and it's always best to lay some down before filler.
This is what i needed bruh, this is the path im following to work on the 55 chevy truck im working on, actually it has a lot of bondo and need some metal work, im sanding until metal, now i now this is the way in taking. Thankd bro!
yes sir, sand it down to bare steel and epoxy that baby.
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 36-40 grit to bare metal? Epoxy primer right away(1k? and 2k after Bondo?( After cleaning & degreasing), 80 grit to sand the bondo and after that..?? Thanks a lot for your kindly time of answering me, as you can see, I'm more than beginner, greetings from Mexico!
@@DiegoLopez-ii7ve after you strip it down to metal, do your metal work to get it close (dent pulls / hammer dolly / etc). Then epoxy prime, body filler, work the filler. If you got a lot of filler you can work it with 80g to start with but that's too coarse IMO to 2k prime over. After filler it all depends on what you have. Some epoxies are high build and you could use that over your filler, or you can use a good quality 2K primer. Never use a 1K "filler" primer.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. In the middle I was thinking “feather test” and you did that too. Super cool. I’m a believer. I’ve seen rust form under bare metal filler. Especially with different temps and I really coming to the idea of weigh measuring my filler. I do both retail and car lot work. Warranty work I’m going to go the distance. Thanks again.
Thank you for watching!
Finish the panel with primer and paint and see where it goes
Thanks for the test
Nice video- i have always put down epoxy and then did filler work i would recommend waiting for it to cure.
Perfect! That’s exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you!!
Let me know if you have any other topics to discuss, i'm always open for trying different things
When I took an Auto Body class the teacher told us that Bondo goes on bare steel then epoxy prime. Some epoxy primers are no sand. Then you lay down your sanding primer and block sand after it's dry. You would fill any small imperfections with polyester putty (not Bondo)and sand after it's dry. Then respray with primer. Wet sand with 500 or 600 grit and your ready for base coat.
i think thats the confusion many people ( including me) have. Im just a late bloomer beginner actually doing a once in my lifetime project in my 50's . Ive seen both sides of the argument on what goes on bare metal first. "bondo" or epoxy. both products claim dtm. so , in my train of reasoning, could it be correct for either? if epoxy seals out all moisture ( read as "future rust potential ") is first and filler sticks to epoxy better than metal , BUT theres also my thought of if epoxy seals out moisture , why cant i encapsulate the filler within 2 coats of epoxy?
It would probably work fine either way. I think the main problem would be leaving the body filler & metal exposed for too long before sealing over it. Might need to figure out a way to do a test & video that!!
In a body shop that’s probably fine but doing at home where it might sit for a while, epoxy first,
The epoxy is somewhat equal too the e coat that manufacturers did cars in before paint. In restorations you always work your metal very close the epoxy/cure then I had learned to prep with 80 or 180 then use your filler. Bondo or a polyester glaze. In a production/ collision shop just needs 40 grit or 80 then filler. Either one is right. They are both approved by manufacturers and coating/material manufacturers.
@@Drkfrzr11 ok. So if my epoxy is past the cure time, my case 4 days, I need to scuff it before the filler work? 180 being the finest ?
Thx for making a great scientific video of testing epoxy sealer with bondo. It helped me make a decision.
Thank you!
Good test... I wonder how well Bondoglass filler would stick to epoxy primer.
I think thats that the benefit of using DTM epoxy first, especially for the non collision shops or someone who is in a restoration project that takes time sourcing parts, etc.
Get it sealed up, going to give you time! Why take chances with moisture and potentially rust.
Those parts can sit for some time on the shelf if need be.
Add the filler when your ready and respray to seal it.
Just makes sense.
100% Agree!!
Awesome 💯. Do you think you could devise a mapping out/ sink back test to find out if epoxy over the bondo sandwiching then highbuild it is any better than highbuild as the next step?
Try doing a pull-off test by using super glue on the end of a steel or aluminum dowel. You can measure the force it takes to pull off and evaluate how and where there was failure.
I was told not to ever put epoxy primer on rusted metal as well. Well I applied epoxy to rusted body and after 5 years so far no sign of detoriations at all.
Brunox is epoxy and converter as well.
I've been doing auto body repairs since 1984,and I was always taught "you never put filler on bare metal,and then epoxy."
...
it's been said that polyester filler doesn't bond to cured epoxy, only epoxy over polyester
Thanks!
Thank you! I am repainting my gate, there is a crack that i did not see before applying the primer, I was wondering if I could just apply body filler on top of the primer 😂
Nice video LCLD... This is definitely an eye opener and good to know... I guess the only question is will it stand the test of time and seeing how the fillers adhered to the primed surface indicates that it would last as long as if applied directly to metal or fiberglass... Thanks for the info... M
I would think so; however, I would follow the datasheets for the products you're using and if it says mechanically abrade after 4 day, then we'd better be doing that for sure. I was shocked myself at these results though
Some great hands on knowledge great job.
I wanna see which Primers in polyester, polyUrethane and Epoxy primers out of the cans are the best... A 1k segment and a separate 2k segment PLEASE!
You got any products in mind? This would make a good comparison video. We shoot akzonobel and ppg products, but i'm definitely open for suggestions!!
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 well I DEFINITELY heard great things about PPG VP2050... Clausen:All-U- Need, EverCoat FeatherFill G2 series...
But Id like to honestly see a Flexible Primer Surfacer/Primer/Primer Sealer made for ABS and Polypropylene Bumpers!!! There isn't much luck out there I can find out of Flexible products in a can, but Seymour PBE Flexible Primer (In Light Gray), US Chemicals Flexible Primer Rose, And SEM Flexible High Build Primer Surfacer in Green, Rose, Beige, and of course Black and Gray (which I bought) id like to see a comparison test of...
Really Flexible Bumper Primer Surfacer/Primer/Primer Sealers out of the Can, Flexible Bumper Coater Paints out of the Can, and Flexible 2k Clears out of the can would be an EVEN BETTER SEGMENT because I've been searching all over the Net and testing these flexible products no one has seem to really have done... Even the Bumper Repair/Flexible Filler and Putty haven't really been done... The Plastic weld repair has been done now by dozens out there, so that section has been covered...
LETS DO THIS! A FLEXIBLE SERIES!!! TESTING FLEX, FRONT IMPACT WITH A BB GUN AND BLUNT FORCE AROUND THE BUMPER, BRITTLENESS, ADHESION "BITE" CHARACTERISTICS, SELF LEVELING CHARACTERISTICS, WORKABLE TIME/CURING CHARACTERISTICS, and a LAST episode of the Series testing for CHEMICAL ROMANCE between different FLEXIBLE Primer Surfacers/Primers/Primer Sealers, FLEXIBLE BASE PAINTS (EPOXY, ACRYLIC/ACRYLIC ENAMEL, URETHANE, even Lacquer I suppose for the heck of it), and of course compatibility with the FLEXIBLE EPOXY, ACRYLIC/ACRYLIC ENAMEL, URETHANE CLEARS...
The products mentioned Above and Dupli-color so far I know of for Plastic Bumpers & Trim, Plastic Vinyls, in which some vinyls are even good for Carpet too! As a 2 in 1.
what is your preferred body filler. i’m debating between rage gold and rage ultra.
We use rage gold in our shop. Never tried rage ultra but i'm sure it's great as well. You will like either one, I might have to get some ultra myself and try it out!
Good video! Just out of curiosity what kind/brand of epoxy primer did you use any details on that? Did you thin it ect...
PPG epoxy primer. It's a 1:1 ratio primer to hardener.
im curious if the problem is after a long time subjected to humidity and other elements that supposed delamination occurs. I'm still afraid to do it.
I'd sand it for sure, but don't be scare to put filler on epoxy. I think my guys got rid of this fender by accident. I was hoping to check longevity after sitting for awhile outside. We've done it time and time again and I'm not afraid anymore at all!!
Epoxy primer, filler, surface primer,sealer, paint
That was impressive!
Kinda funny seeing the cheaper "Evercoat Lite Weight" (Evercoat"s lower line filler that sands like CONCRETE😤 ya know?) directly over the non sanded Epoxy (#4 swipe on the left side going right) seemed to actually stick the best (it seemed to me). It didn't have any bare metal gouges like the others. The 3M filler seemed to "come off" more so than any of them (again, from here)....Now do the same "strength test" with filler over fresh 36/40 grit sanded bare metal, then the same with filler over fresh 80 grit, then maybe 150/ 180 grit ALL to bare metal....Then do one, where it's been Epoxy sealed, SAT for weeks, (months even) and prepare the surface with 80 grit prep sanded, and then a 150/180 prep sanded and apply the filler OVER the sanded/prepped Epoxy, and then, do/try out "your tests" on that, (IF you don't already have a vid on such). Great vid btw. Happy Restoring and Cruizin
check out some of my other videos where i did some of what you're asking for. Thanks for watching
I think you need to scuff the epoxy if you pass the window. It’s the difference between a chemical and mechanical adhesion.
filler has to go on a paint or primer sand it first then applie the filler bondo will cause bare metel to rust and will fail in time
Sandblast to metal, apply rust inhibitor,tgen Bondo glass ? ( because its marine bases and waterproof)
We strip to metal, clean / treat metal, then epoxy prime before we do any filler work. We've been using CRE321 Epoxy and I like it. It's got a good build to it so you can block it down, apply filler as needed, then use whatever primer you'd prefer over all of it. (or just use CRE again)
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 I have a urethane primer... same process?
@@mikep509 use Epoxy on bare metal instead of urethane. I'm not saying it won't work but 2K primers dont seal out moisture like an epoxy.
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 but the urethane primer still protects the metal, along with the layers of paint and clearcoat no? Just an epoxy primer is better at it .. but both work correct?
@@mikep509 both will work, but I'd use epoxy on bare metal if given the choice. If thats all you got it should fine.
In the marine fiberglass world, the theory is you can epoxy over polyester but not polyester over epoxy. I've been putting polyester over epoxy in the auto industry for 30 years and it works.
agree it should work fine
is the marine application of epoxy and/or filler the same as auto ...same formula?
Mr Benton, I subscribed to read answers to my old 67 C10. Very little rust but in retirement, I am stretching my epoxy dollar 3 feet long. As a ASE Master in 78 at a Datsun / Nissan dealer, I've done some body, shrinking and painted rescued cars & pickups for our family, but could count on one hand. My question in epoxy is spent decent money for "Shop Line" and paint the outside? The word DTM scares me but would use it under hood, in cab, inside bed sides. But being anal I am using chemicals to clean inside doors, pinch welds, pocket and bedsides to remove as much rust one at a time, scuff, repeat, sand, W&G, then spray where the sun don't shine. I can't stand the thought of and level of rust I can get rid of that comes from the "Never Dipped Car Age" from a manufacturer.
Straight epoxy seems to disappear as time passes. Don't know what they add other than a weak phosphoric acid, but the best today from PPG is VB2050 DTM epoxy high build a hybrid one shot.
Can you throw me a bone with some ideas still on it? Thanks.
DK, Omaha.
I've heard very good things about that VB2050 but haven't tried it myself. What is scaring you about the DTM products?
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 Well, without knowing what they did for prep, cleaning and tooth, both chemical & mechanical, the cured finish would come off with a pressure washer or tape pull! No one wants that, but using best practices and the best I can afford to seal the metal.
I would appreciate any name suggestions or thought on DTM epoxy. At many companies, marketing drives the product, so perhaps the brag about excellent adhesive properties and less steps, work, product and time. Mostly collision.
Anything thoughts will be a great help to my peace of mind! Thanks!
There is a chemical in body fill er catalyst that reacts to bare steel and creates a rust condition. To solve that problem apply body filler over epoxy primer always.
No
@DADDYCOKE2012 yes. Epoxy is the only sealer that prevents rust. Bondo or filler does not have that same protection. What ever the instructions say is verifyably wrong
that was awesome.
thank you!!
Helpfull ty
Why not follow instruction and sand after cured?
Absolutely follow the instructions on the data sheets, I was just curious to see what would happen.
Your test is not consistent. You should use the same grit sandpaper on each. Apply the same pressure for the same amount of time. This would make the test equal.
Wait a year. Then cut out those areas. Then bend them. And you will see.
good video idea!
Obviously, it wasn’t cured you did say it was cool in there
Epoxy primer has no place in modern body work use zgrip filler are a newer technology filler over bare metal a metal to metal 2k primer like upol block and paint. The say there is a cnterversey over epoxy but its only on u tube professional shops haven't used it in years thunder road auto body. There is a real problem created by epoxy that may not show up for a long period time .
Can you please elaborate the correct modern process and materials.
If you want a chemical bond you have to use epoxy filler . Polyester and epoxy are two different things
You watched the video, which proves your comment wrong.
Hi I have a question.Iam changing the color on my car.but the paint still very good
Do I need to sanded the old paint and primer.or I can paint on top off the old paint.thank you
That's a loaded question. I'd want to know how old it is, what type it is, etc. If it's OEM base clear and the clear is still good and you're just changing color yes you should be able to spray right on top of the clear. If the clear is damaged or broken through you will need to prime it.