DIY How To Anodize Aluminum At Home
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Anodizing parts in my garage.
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Red dye
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Blue dye
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Hot plate
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Lye (sodium hydroxide)
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Power supply
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2qt paint pail
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Thermometer
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This is the 7th video I've watched today. This process is a lot smoother than anything else I saw. People have 8 different baths and 20 different cleaning solutions and neutralizing agents... Thanks for making it simple.
Great video. Wish I had this a few years back when I had to do some aluminum anodizing.
Some things I learned from my experience (for those who do not already know):
The lye step is "opening the pores" so to speak, in the aluminum. It helps allow the dye in during the dye phase. (The boiling at the final phase closes those pores, locking in the dye).
During the anodizing phase, make sure to keep the water cool. I had issues where the water got too warm, which starts to close the "pores". My parts did not take the dye well after that. It created cool effects, but not what I was shooting for. I remediated on subsequent parts by placing the anodizing container within an ice bath.This may or may not happen to you depending on your setup.
Make sure you have good contact between the aluminum part and the wire/rod it dangles from, and that the wire/rod doesn't cover anything you want to anodize/dye.
Good tips! Thanks for watching.
Excellent tips! Thank you for taking the time to educate. Folks like you really add a lot to the comment section and to our learning. I am a novice to anodizing for jewelry making and DIY.
The anodize is pores not the aluminum
Bead blasting definitely helps. I didn't realize how simple the process is.
Anodized AR uppers and lowers here I come👌👍
You may need more current for larger parts.
@@utahprepper8925 Noted
Lol...that is the exact reason I am watching this.
I’ve watched several anodizing videos. After watching yours, I do not need to watch any more. Thank you for the detail!
Thanks for watching!
I got lucky! Thia is the first one I watch
Wish I was your neighbor. Not enough people out there doing cool stuff like this.
i watched another video, after few minutes of watching i gave up anodizing at home, then came across this video, you made it look so easy, and it is. thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate the order you showed this in, makes the process very straight forward and easy to follow!
Thanks!
I have to Anodize and ship parts pronto...
no time for shipping to Anodizers.
On the Knurls.. you will have a lot better success with a cut knurler...
I got one and love it. Clean, sharp and no surface problems.
I can even knurl plastics...
Thanks for the video!!! Very much straight to the point.
Mark
I appreciate you going over your method step by step. I was pretty impressed with the outcome and your video was really well done too. Thanks!
Nice work! Well done. Very achievable with common tools and materials. Also, thanks for not wearing me out with a bunch of excess warnings about how "dangerous" Lye and Sufuric acid can be. We all get that, and on behalf of myself and the other viewers, THANKS for recognizing that - and for getting right to the process.
Great result on only your second part ever? Well done my friend. It looks great.
Good video. As you observed, the smoothness of the surface being anodized will affect the final color. We would intentionally texture certain surfaces with bead blasting to get a different shade.
That's a great tutorial video. I like the darker red personally. Red anodize fades in the Florida sunshine. My purchased truck emblem turned pink after 1 year. Have been wanting to redo it. This video makes that possible.
Thanks for watching
I’m gonna go anodize every piece of metal I can find 😁 thanks for the video!👍🏻
What are the odds that entering "anodizing aluminum" into a youtube search world show me somebody I know personally?
Hector from Monterrey?
Hes a bad person he rides a gixxer. You dont need slow people in your life
@@mitchellward5739 😏
@@gixerman01 No. Worked with you until a year ago. Hope you are still checking the haz shed every week.
Nice work! This is the video that has pushed me over the edge... I'm going to start DIY Anodizing.
Thanks for an informative video! Not something that is nearly as hard to do as I thought. As a side note, anodizing is also a non-conductive coating. In electronics I have seen aluminum insulators for TO-3 transistors made from anodized aluminum. Mostly they use mica or silicone rubber as insulators. That fact fools a lot of new electronics guys!
Great video. Your detailed step by step process with amounts & times makes it excellent. I'm Going to try this soon.
It looked like you had 2 lead plates in the anodize container with a couple of leads I wasn't expecting. Can you elaborate on how that's hooked up electrically? Great video, by the way. Thanks.
Best, no nonsense, on point video on the subject. Thank you for this
Thanks for watching.
Wow , this is a great video , very well edited and explained.
I'm saving the video to watch again when I'm ready to start this on some of my projects.
Thanks for watching
Awesome! I’m going to use this process on my home built kit aircraft.
If you want more control over the density of the color soak it in the room temperature dye. It will take longer, but it allows you to add effects like gradation. If you don't like the result you can also "bleach" it out by soaking in a baking soda mixture, but this has to be done before sealing in hot water. The problem on your knurling may have also been caused by smut from the lye, consider using a brush to desmut in your bath before the sulfuric.
I have had issues with discolorations in knurls also. What I have found is knurling causing micro fracturing on the material surface; if the part is not soaked in a baking soda bath, the acid leaches out of the fracturing during the dying process causing the imperfections.
A #1 video my man! I love skilled craftsmanship.
Thanks for watching
The Lye simply removes the oxide coating prior to anodizing - after that you need a 'desmut' agent (I use Caswell) THAT removes impurities left on the surface and stops any blemish or flaking even caused by said impurities
Lye is for etching. You should desmut the part (get rid of the smokey coating) before putting in your acid bath. I find Dawn dishwashing liquid is the best with a scrub brush. Finish with a distilled water spray and store parts in distilled water until ready to go in the acid bath. Check out US Specialty dyes. Just because a dye is a certain color doesn’t mean the part will turn out that color. Dye particle sizes are taken into account with true anodizing dyes.
Thanks man.. I'm making my own telescope mounting parts and plan on anodizing them black!!!
This is a very very helpful video, thanks for this bud, the possibilities are going to be endless for me once I get a anodizing station set up in my garage. Thanks man
Make sure you keep it well vented. Thanks for watching.
You are missing the most important step! You must seal the parts when done close the pores created in the acid/electrolysis bath. The most common solution is a Nickel Acetate based sealer at 205 degrees. A desmut solution between your degreasing/lye, and acid/electroysis, will also help in the flaking/smudging problems. Remember, if a part does not turn out right the degreasing/lye solution, is also what is used to strip anodizing, so you just start over, there will be no damage to the part, but you can't use the stripping solution for anything but stripping!!
Thanks for watching.
he did seal it at the end in the boiling pot. 90 degrees C for 2 to 3 minutes is enough time to seal but 10-20 is fine as long as the seal water is good and clean as well as the pot (which it clearly was) or else pitting and spotting can occur. A nitric acid step is usually after the etch and rinse steps and before anodising. Also, heating your etch solution to 70-90 degrees C will speed up the etc process and you would only need around 45 seconds to a minute for a small part like that. Aluminium grade also plays a part. 2024 is a fussy grade but 6061 or 7075 are better grades and take anodising a little easier without finish problems.
@@gixerman01 everything I've read elsewhere on anodizing says to keep the acid anodizing bath and the dye baths cold so the oxide coating will readily soak up the dye. Then the hot water bath (or steam) causes the microscopic pores in the oxide to close up, trapping the dye.
@@greggv8 yep, exactly. I said only the etch, which is the first stage, and the seal, can or should be heated. Anodising tanks run around 10-11 degrees celcius usually with an a chiller heat exchanger plumbed in to maintain this specific temp. if it rises above this, it can cause a miriad of issues with the part from pitting to staining and discolouration, which can show up as pink or green on natural anodising. You use a nitric bath to clean off the parts after the first stage etch as water alone wont take the black off the parts. usually the stages would be caustic etch, rinse, nitric,rinse, anodise, rinse, seal. seal time can vary dependant on material grade along with chemical strength and finish of the part, so can etch time. Part dimensions, chemical concentrations per stage (especially etch) need to be watched closely and adjustments made on the fly to keep a consistent finish when batch anodising parts.
This video is a very good starting point for anyone interested in doing small single parts like this.
@@joeshaft do you seal the part after anodizing then neutralizing but not coloring??
hey you nailed it giu.. just a quick tip that may save somebody an injury... Never Add water to sulfuric acid... you can add water to sulfuric acid slowly... but never water into acid.. hella crazy burny reactions happen.
Well done my friend i heard how easy and cheap it is to set your own at home set up...... Wowwww easy peasy👋👋👋👋👋👋
Looks seriously nice brother. This is a process that's always interested me.
Dont need to put it in the lye. Only to strip anodizing. Just clean and then the acid bath. If you want it shiny polish it first. There are calculators on line for the size of the part and the amps needed. I paid 50 for a great supply that you can adjust volts and amps. Leave it in the bath for a hour no matter the size of the part. Great video . I done alot of anodizing and nickel planting and copper plating. Should mention on the way to hook up the power to the part that matters alot for it to work.
If the part that is being anodized is just raw aluminum that I have sanded and polished up to look chrome. Will anodizing it dull it or prevent it from looking like chrome? If you go to my channel you will see the item/s I am speaking of. Thx
Awesome video,now I can test this out on a few sets of aluminum knife scales
Great video. Love the garage, soooooo tidy!
Damn brother, you are spot on with your knowledge and the ability to execute. Your vids are extremely informative.
Thanks for watching.
Damn...
Where has this been all my life??!!
~subbed
Thanks for the support!
Nothing beats tinkering in the workshop. Best mental therapy one can get and a lot cheaper than paying a shrink.
Thank you very much for the home do it instructions. I learned how to fix and repair everything with wheels after a couple or 60’s era lawnmowers but cut my teeth on motorcycles.
Self taught, I later was able to become an ASE Master, but moved on 36 years later to teach. At 3:52 you mentioned “De-Ionized” water when referring to distilled water. The ironic part is, deionized water in mixed with modern antifreeze but used in hydrogen fuel cell vehicles. There are 5 types of these fuel cells and only the PEM type work great in a mobile conditions found in automotive applications. At a GM facility, 3 dozen of us spent the day and all questions where answered. The generate 180 VDC and feed into investors for 12-14 VDC, 42 VDC and converter to create A/C voltage for 3 phase operation to drive the wheels. The aluminum boxes generate heat and have a radiator, heater core and hoses. Deionized water has all of the metal salts removed to eliminate electrolysis and galvanic action inside the devices to last 5000 hours or longer, as this is 150,000 miles in vehicle life.
Found it very interesting to be able to anodize parts at home. I wonder how they do clear on head light trim, like a 67-72 C10 and other exterior trim. Great job and very clear.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired
Thanks for watching
Thanks for making the video and sharing this online, it has helped me alot with some projects
It looks great, good job. It gives me hope for future projects.
Great video... I'm hoping to anodize some large aluminum extrusion and parts. So, hopefully I can get it right after I test a bunch of samples. Thanks for the great How-to!!!
Thanks for watching.
My guess is the bubbles from the etch process prevented a thorough etch in the deeper parts of the knurling causing the flaking in the knurls. Swirl the part in the etch bath enough to seperate the bubbles, or try to etch in an ultrasonic bath.
Most people doing a cook involving battery acid and NaOH are doing something TOTALLY different. Lmao. Loved the video. Just people, keep in mind, conspiracy to manufacture meth is a real crime and only requires 3 prerequisite chemicals for a solid case. This has 2 of the main ones. Just a heads up... and please use eye/face protection around acids. One small accident can really ruin your day.
what is the 3rd one?
Wouldn’t that be a bitch,end up going to jail for meth charges just for trying to anodize some aluminum..lol
@@irvinmartinez382 😂
@@irvinmartinez382 lmk when you find out 😂😂😂
@@BLACKEDOUTVIKyou gonna have to watch breaking bad 😂😂
Oh great.. Another project I have to add to my shop....
Great job, Thanks for the tutorial
Great video Dave! It's crazy when you run across someone you know searching RUclips.
Thanks for watching
For gun blue the Polish done is polish u get. The etch will frost like blasting. Try moving the part in bath to stop blotches. Thanks dude,way cool
Im ready to do this today. Thanks you saved me money by not having to take my stuff to a shop. You didnt mention the metal type of your part holder with the crank. Aluminum wire?
Steve Rez yes it’s aluminum wire. Thanks for watching.
Mice vid!!! Alot of other videos ive watched on anodizing make it seem so complicated, and results are never really that good.... You got a new subscriber, and im looking firward to satching more of your vids!! Also....i had an 01' black/silver/gold GSX-R 1000....dope bike!
I had the black and red 92 1100 gsxr before this one. It was a good looking bike but I always liked the yoshimura colors so I held out for the blue one when I got this 01. Sadly I haven’t ridden it to much the last couple years but plan on getting it out more this year. I’ve been ridding but mostly my concours I may be getting old! Thanks for watching.
Nice shop. We should all be luck enough to have one this nice.
Thanks for watching
I've been using RIT Dyemore racing red and getting great results. It's $3 at Walmart. Good video. Love watching everyone's different techniques people are using. Definitely subscribing. Thanks!
I didn’t have great results with the rit dye. But there are a few different types and I may have not used the right one. Thanks for watching.
@@gixerman01 the synthetic Dyemore type works well for me. That's all I've used so I'm eager to try some dyes that are actually specifically made for anodizing. I'm sure RIT has unnecessary components in it. I might try filtering it and see if that does anything beneficial. Thanks
@@gixerman01 what are the ingredients of your specialized anodizing dyes? Do they name them on the back of their bottles or is that kept secret? Maybe you, through trial and error, have found the best solution for durability? Not for shine and gloss but for being really hard to rub off and wear out, like bike clutch and brake levers that must suffer through prolonged frictional contact and stay put for years.
Thanks!
Awesome....Probably wouldn’t hurt to have safety glasses on too
It hurts not having them, don't ask me how I know
And longer chemical gloves.
Wow! Thanks a lot for showing how to do this! This is great!
Very informative and easy to follow, great instructions
Way better to us a current regulated power supply if you want good consistent results rather than a battery charger. I have been doing this at home for many years. However you have got good results for a beginner.
This video was a first shot at this. I bought and use a power supply now. Thanks for watching.
gixerman01 Excellent. I have just recently posted 3 videos on anodising you might be interested in. Cheers.
This is sweet man! I’ll definitely add this to my list of stuff I’ll do on my builds.
It takes your home built projects to the next level! Thanks for watching.
I'm your 3000th like. It said 2.9 and when I clicked like it changed to 3k. Great video, I didn't know anodizing was just dye on a super clean etched part.
Thanks for watching. I think that there is actually a porous coating growing on the part. You are etching it in the smut bath to get to super clean part.
There are a few other things you should mention for good anodizing. Like the temperature of the acid while anodizing... Should not be over 25°C. Small parts are not so critical but bigger parts can warm up your acid very quickly and this is bad for the result.
The colder the acid the harder would become your anodized surface. Important as well is to mention that no steel parts should be in the acid... Hang up parts only with Aluminium or titanium Grade1 to 3...
And as well important is the calculation of the surface or better how much current you need for a certain big surface.
But I do not criticize you... All fine.
But as an hobby anodizer like you I faced a lot of problem and this 2-3 hints saved my result.
Nickel Acetat is as well important.
But if you can get the result without this hazardous stuff it's better for your health. It's only to prevent a bleeding out of the dye.
But some dyes needs this process
This is America my friend. We're not metric, so that little c means copyright to us, not temperature. A big F is what we know. Water freezes at 32 and boils at 216. Don't get me wrong, the metric system is better, but America fears change. We tried to have it adopted back 50 years ago but it flopped
212
@@charlesrempel1681 212 ??? What is that in reference to? Oh wait, I know now
@@charlesrempel1681 I'm at a higher elevation, so it takes longer for the water to soak into my grits. And I'm not using instant grits
@@charlesrempel1681 I just researched that and now I know that you know I'm fos. I live 2000 below sea level so it takes longer to boil water in my submarine
Really like the video. I am redoing a old Harley Davidson and I would love to do something different. Thanks
Really good video! I was hoping this was do-able at home. Found your vid off goog thanks
I'm planning on doing this to some rc parts that I had can you let me know where you got the lead plates and what type of wire did you use on the delrin piece and where to get the delrin piece, your video is honestly one of the best I've seen.
Thanks for this very useful video, gonna anodise my head cylinder purple now
Suggest you get the a agitator( spinning magnet) during you edge. Also cost a little more but get the proper dye for Anodizing Metals. It comes in a powder and you do not have to heat it. I use it all the time its the way to go no doubt. Also WET SAND YOU PART if possible. Remember how it looks after prep, is how it will look after but more identifiable. Lastly the cleaner the lead is the better edge you will have with less amps and time. I build guns,RC parts and just about anything. I also powder coat,gold plate and now I am just getting into Smelting.
Thanks for the tips, and thanks for watching!
Where can I get the sulfuric acid? And is that what’s in the boiling pot?
When I worked for Hawker Aircraft our anodising was done in Chromic Acid for 30 minutes, job done.
That was probably chromate conversion coating (also known by a bunch of different trade names like Alodine...) That's a different chemical process from anodizing.
@@svyt Trust me it WAS anodising. We didn`t mess around with fighter aircraft.
@@svyt it is hard anodizing thicker heaver oxide coating and chemical hardens aluminum
@@angelsone-five7912 I've done a bit more research, and I stand corrected. Thanks! (And chromic acid sounds like something you probably don't want to use in your "garage anodizing" setup, eh?)
@@svyt No worries mate and NO it`s not a substance you want to mess around with anywhere, handle with care, lol.
Great job, quick and informative
Thanks for watching
Very good video. 5th i watched last i needed 👌
Great job!! I love this tutorial!
Longer etch time on bead blasted or knurled parts
Done right thanks. Straight to the point.
good working men
Turned out nice. Very cool process to anodize.
Tarrnation thanks. I’ve now anodized three times and have a repeatable process. I didn’t think the color was on par with what I was looking for but after doing some comparison with parts on my bike it’s actually a perfect match. I was shooting for the color of that little cell phone holder and it actually is yellowish compared to parts on the bike. I’m pretty stoked I will be able to make parts and anodize them for the bikes. I need to get some blue and gold dye next. It will make some cool looking parts.
I had zero idea this could be so easy
baggins1 it’s not bad just a little time consuming.
@@gixerman01 Now all i need is a full machine shop to create parts to anodize
perfect explaining......
If you cut in half the 38% sulfuric acid you get 19% sulfuric acid, or the 50/50 was meant for the battery electrolyte not the actual acid? Thanks for the video keep it up
very nice....good job
To remove anodized from an object, use Easy Off oven cleaner, heavy duty stuff in the yellow can. Works great.
100% Lye is cheaper. Hardware stores still carry the powdered lye for $4/lb, Easy Off is only a few ounces of diluted lye, plus it is aerosol, which leads to lye in the air.
i use muck off £1 per ltr
To be honest, at the start of the video it looked like a video with low quality but it turned out so good, i would rather have it that way instead of the other way around :D
Thanks for watching
My friend nice tutorial 👌👌👍👍
Thanks bro...great work
Excellent demo. Where does one find battery acid? Besides tearing apart old batteries.
Thank you very much for the tutorial, very well explained, I'm going to try to replicate your steps in my Workshop. BTW, what material was the metal sheet on the second Water container were the anodizing took place?
Lead. Thanks for watching.
Fancy seeing you here! :D
@@gixerman01 long time since this video was posted and how this gets to you sometime, where does one acquire lead strips/sheets?. They have sheet lead rolls on Amazon 1/8in thick, would that do the trick and would they be reusable.
@@amontanez0921 yes and yes they would be reusable.
@@gixerman01 thank you tons.
100% Fantastic! Simple, complete, nice.
Great job looks better than the China anodizing on the parts I buy....
Great work. its better than in lab scale.
Nice work!
Really interesting. Thank you
Awesome information! Maybe I won't powder coat. Thank You
Clean and organized laboratory, and good explanation. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial sir!
Ok so when can i send my parts to you?
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL
When you add the sulfuric acid to the water, it gets CRAZY hot. Wish that was mentioned somewhere. Ran and got my welding gloves to put the same 2 quart tub outside in case the shit hit the fan.
I did not have that issue.
Once it changes colour in the first bath, will it remain that colour if none of the rest of the process is carried out?
Thank you for this video. Will do myself
A desmut in nitric acid for 20 seconds would probably have prevented the imperfections. Once you dip in sodium hydroxide which etched the part and possible left smut you brought trace elements to the surface from the alloys. The nitric acid will remove those. You just need a 10% nitric acid mixture with distilled water to accomplish this. May not be necessary if your alloy is very pure aluminum. Very necessary on 7075 aluminum.
Nice clean look
Damn nice job bro !!!!!!!
Damn that phone mount perfectly matches the Product Red iPhones 😍
Thanks for watching.
Really Awesome tutorial!! Thank you. Definitely Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!