so I ordered some parts for a small RC car, they are 7075 aluminum silver....so could i sand those down and do this same process if i wanted them purple
You did not elaborate on the part that was red and blue, end to end. Also, can a part be dyed with one color over a second color? Say red over black or green over yellow. I am thinking of an effect where a second color occasionally appears in an otherwise uniform finish.
The red and blue part was just done by dying one side partially then flipping it around and dying the other side partially. You can dye over colors but they will blend. I do not think you will get the fade through effect you mentioned.
It has some scratch resistance but it's not super hard. It can work on a lure but will get scratched from teeth and banging around on the boat. Enamel paint is probably easier and can be touched up easier.
this video is awesome! i do have a question: i understand that the aluminum wires being used as hanging rods for the part being anodized are one time use (and titanium wires are not). are the aluminum cathodes also one time use? is there an alternative, if so?
Thank you. No, the cathodes can be used multiple times as long as they are in good shape. I've seen people also use lead cathodes but I've never had any issues with aluminum.
Thank you. Not that I am aware. The parts need to be anodized to accept dye and were probably already sealed in their natural color already. You'd need to strip the anodized layer and go through the process again. There are clear "anodized" looking paints that give a similar effect though.
Thanks for the quick reply. There’s a reel I’d like to dye that is anodized and sealed without dye. To buy that exact same reel with a color is $200-300 more. Thanks again!
Hello Is it possible to re:dye a part? I have a fishing reel that supposed to be black but one side plate is brownish and i dont like it at all. Tnx /F
You would have to first strip off the anodizing layer with something like a chemical process (ex. lye) or mechanical (lathe or sandblasting) and then clean it thoroughly before re-anodizing.
Have you had any issues with the power supply not reaching/maintaining the desired amperage? I’m using a digital dc supply with a constant current setting but it keeps kicking me out of CC and reverts to constant voltage.
I've had that problem before as the acid solution temperature stabilizes. It often jumps around as the temperature fluctuates but levels out later. I've found on the cheaper dc power supplies like mine it's best to set it up for a lower voltage/current target to start versus trying for higher levels right off the start.
As long as the part is cleaned after sandblasting you can anodize. Clean meaning free of dirt, oil or other debris. The finish will be matte versus shiny.
What ink or die do you use I've tried searching Google but it's showing loads of different dies or pigments and I used permanent marker as it used to stick to metal but somehow isn't permanent anymore so I's scamming people with false advertising
Excellent Content, with Perfect Delivery💯Especially for my ADHD 🧠🤓 📍I machine Aluminum 1:25 scale auto model parts on a Mill & Lathe. My question is this; “How can you regulate the amount of color you want with a part?” Ex: Motor parts that I’m using a Butter/Yellow Anodize Dye, but I only want a very light tint of the color.. 👉Can you tell me what to tweak to do this please… Thank-U -Sir..... Respectfully, Lee aka: ZenModeling☯️
Thanks for watching. To get consistent part coloring I would use weigh out the same amount of pigment for a new batch each time after finding the right shade of tint I want and dip the parts for the same time. It will take some experimenting at first to find the amount of dye and time to get the color you want.
@@ShinyInsanity 👉I’m using a Sodium Bisulfate solution with Lead cathode strips @ 16v & 0.3amp’s for about 90 mins & using Black, Red & Gold colors + (Liquid-Nickel-Acetate-Sealer) & so far have all been 💯
Finally! A straight forward how to anodize and dye aluminum video on youtube.
But what can i use other than battery acid/fluid? Any alternatives??
Thanks. I'm not sure of any other acid alternatives for anodizing. The process requires sulfuric acid hence the battery acid.
so I ordered some parts for a small RC car, they are 7075 aluminum silver....so could i sand those down and do this same process if i wanted them purple
Yes, 7075 can be anodized and dyed using the same process.
I wonder what the active ingredient in that Zep degreaser might be...
shhh don't tell him
I'm sure it's not love :)
You did not elaborate on the part that was red and blue, end to end. Also, can a part be dyed with one color over a second color? Say red over black or green over yellow. I am thinking of an effect where a second color occasionally appears in an otherwise uniform finish.
The red and blue part was just done by dying one side partially then flipping it around and dying the other side partially. You can dye over colors but they will blend. I do not think you will get the fade through effect you mentioned.
Look up any paintball anodizing its insane
Is anodized metal scratch resistant, say for a metal fishing lure, or would a different type of coating be more adequate?
It has some scratch resistance but it's not super hard. It can work on a lure but will get scratched from teeth and banging around on the boat. Enamel paint is probably easier and can be touched up easier.
this video is awesome! i do have a question: i understand that the aluminum wires being used as hanging rods for the part being anodized are one time use (and titanium wires are not). are the aluminum cathodes also one time use? is there an alternative, if so?
Thank you. No, the cathodes can be used multiple times as long as they are in good shape. I've seen people also use lead cathodes but I've never had any issues with aluminum.
@@ShinyInsanity is copper better?
@@fieldrecordstalent No, copper would contaminate the solution as far as I know.
Excellent video! Can you dye aluminum parts that are anodized but we’re not dyed (still natural aluminum color)?
Thank you. Not that I am aware. The parts need to be anodized to accept dye and were probably already sealed in their natural color already. You'd need to strip the anodized layer and go through the process again. There are clear "anodized" looking paints that give a similar effect though.
Thanks for the quick reply. There’s a reel I’d like to dye that is anodized and sealed without dye. To buy that exact same reel with a color is $200-300 more. Thanks again!
No problem! What reel is it? Silver hides scratches a lot better than a lot of other colors.
can u also use this method to anodize quartz crystal? which the called "aura crystals" in the market
I've never heard of anodizing crystals so would not know to be honest.
Freaking interesting to know! Thank you!
Hello
Is it possible to re:dye a part?
I have a fishing reel that supposed to be black but one side plate is brownish and i dont like it at all.
Tnx /F
You would have to first strip off the anodizing layer with something like a chemical process (ex. lye) or mechanical (lathe or sandblasting) and then clean it thoroughly before re-anodizing.
Thanks bud, i want to try this at home myself.
Np. Good luck, it's not hard to do.
Have you had any issues with the power supply not reaching/maintaining the desired amperage? I’m using a digital dc supply with a constant current setting but it keeps kicking me out of CC and reverts to constant voltage.
I've had that problem before as the acid solution temperature stabilizes. It often jumps around as the temperature fluctuates but levels out later. I've found on the cheaper dc power supplies like mine it's best to set it up for a lower voltage/current target to start versus trying for higher levels right off the start.
I sandblasted me aluminum part can I now anodiz the part or does the aluminum need to be shiny
As long as the part is cleaned after sandblasting you can anodize. Clean meaning free of dirt, oil or other debris. The finish will be matte versus shiny.
What ink or die do you use I've tried searching Google but it's showing loads of different dies or pigments and I used permanent marker as it used to stick to metal but somehow isn't permanent anymore so I's scamming people with false advertising
Look up Caswell plating. They sell legitimate anodizing dyes that I use.
How much time do you have until the aluminum doesn't accept the dye?
It's pretty much open until you seal the part with heat (i.e. boiling or steam) or it gets contaminated/dirty.
Great video
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent Content, with Perfect Delivery💯Especially for my ADHD 🧠🤓
📍I machine Aluminum 1:25 scale auto model parts on a Mill & Lathe. My question is this; “How can you regulate the amount of color you want with a part?” Ex: Motor parts that I’m using a Butter/Yellow Anodize Dye, but I only want a very light tint of the color..
👉Can you tell me what to tweak to do this please…
Thank-U -Sir..... Respectfully,
Lee aka: ZenModeling☯️
Thanks for watching. To get consistent part coloring I would use weigh out the same amount of pigment for a new batch each time after finding the right shade of tint I want and dip the parts for the same time. It will take some experimenting at first to find the amount of dye and time to get the color you want.
@@ShinyInsanity I’ve done several parts since last message & they all came out 💯 Thanks!
@@Zen_Modeling Glad to hear that!
@@ShinyInsanity
👉I’m using a Sodium Bisulfate solution with Lead cathode strips @ 16v & 0.3amp’s for about 90 mins & using Black, Red & Gold colors + (Liquid-Nickel-Acetate-Sealer) & so far have all been 💯
@@Zen_Modeling Not really familiar with the sodium bisulfate method but sounds interesting. Any videos or documentation you can share?
What dye do you use?
Caswell dyes.
@@ShinyInsanity What's that ?
@@masdwiky656 Name of the brand.
God darn get to it...
Get to what?
"don't like working with lye"
"I'm just gonna spritz it with this degreaser"
:l
Don't like working with concentrated lye....