I love your videos, I’m 21 years old and when I was 19 I bought a 1962 Hotchkiss M201 as my first car. Only now am I really starting to take an interest in the mechanical side, your videos are a great help :) thank you and keep up the good work!
Thank for the info. Half pie product substitution but easily overcome by proper driver training courses and workshop modification of inlet manifolds. You have to start with the basics when substituting components or setting up production of brand new kit. The Yanks received the entire technical package for the perfected Hispano Suiza 20mm aircraft cannon form the British BUT failed to get that weapon into service because US Ordnance ‘experts’ decided to ream the chambers too deep for reliable function and reportedly refused to conform to the proven specification. That is why their later WW2 fighters were stuck with .50 cal machine guns instead of the 20mm Hispano Suiza cannons they were designed to carry. The B36 bomber was notorious for engine problems. The piston engines fitted to that aeroplane in a pusher position were reportedly designed and built to work in pull configuration. As designed, the carburettors were behind the exhaust manifolds BUT with the engines installed backwards the carburettors were in front of the exhaust manifolds. Carburettor heaters, according to my understanding, are a backup system for use at high altitude and in abnormally cold conditions; as opposed to being the only means of ensuring reliable carburettor function in cold air conditions. There are no true short cuts in design and manufacturing. When someone’s ‘bright new idea’ fails to work, you return to a proven reliable specification.
I was having backfire issues with my 48 2A (all stock 6v) last week and when it did run there was an odd vibration and not much power under load and was sputtering just over idle. I adjusted the timing and it continued. I pulled the plugs to look at them and #3 wasn't nearly as hot as the others. I tracked it down to one of my old plug wires was not bringing all of the spark to #3 so it was missing. Just swapped out standard plugs and wires and she runs great again.
i sometimes had some troubles also with Carter carburetor in the past, but run with jeeps is like a bet sometimes... will it run? At the end it always finish fine...
With progress, much knowledge is forgotten. Young drivers today have no understanding of these things. Back when I learned to drive, many cars and trucks still had manual chokes, and you quickly learned the rules for starting the engine when it was hot or cold, and how to start a flooded engine. Now we just press a button and it goes.
"It's a piece of junk! The Fuel system leaks all over the place!" - Moriarity (Kelly's Heroes) referring to the Tiger tank and it's Solex carburation... Something about Solex also responsible for starting fires in Panthers... #notsayinjustsayin ;)
That was a movie script. A good part of the German tank fuel fire problem was leaking fuel lines. They couldn't get natural rubber and substituted synthetic rubber, which was itself scarce. Fuel lines and oil hoses were made of more fibers and minimum rubber. Using a minimum length of a weak, brittle substitute resulted in the lines leaking or breaking, especially with greater engine movement at start-up or panic driving in combat. Adding to the problem, the heavier tanks were designed to ford streams and rivers rather than crush local bridges. To facilitate this, some had watertight engine compartments undertrays. Something that can keep water out will keep fuel and oil in when hoses burst.
I have a Hillman Imp which, as standard, is fitted with a Solex carb. The inlet manifold has a small brass tube with a hole at the end, in effect a drain tube to prevent the manifold filling up with a float chamber's worth of fuel. No problems hot starting but could have been a different story without the drain tube.
Great video and knowledge, my Carter had absolutely no issues over a 10 year ownership in fact I never even fiddled with it at all which says a lot in my opinion 💪 well apart from the odd air n fuel adjustment on the screw you’d expect 😀
Surface gap plugs were standard in my 1970 Kawasaki 500 H1 motorcycle. They were used because they are the coldest plug available. They worked well, but I can see no advantage for a 4 stroke engine. They also tended to be short lived and I had to replace them yearly. That may have been an effect of leaded fuel, but I don't know that for certain.
Fantastic, I love the practical handson experimentation. Just put some plugs in and take it for a spin. Also really enjoyed the Messerschmitt episode. Keep up the good work!
I wonder if the guy's timing chain slipped a tooth or two. Sometimes, when you nurse an engine after changing out some parts, you think you've solved the problem when all you've done is masked it by driving it differently! Field fix: How to get it home (for point systems like these jeeps and even into the 1970's! and a bit beyond depending on the engine!!) Emery board like a woman using for her nails, sandpaper, matchbook cover (US or Canadian) Quarter and dime or another coin of similar thickness. Clean the fouling off of the spark plugs with the sandpaper and then use the emery board to ensure flat surfaces. Gap by putting the quarter in-between the plug's spark parts (sorry forget what they call, I mainly work on diesels!) and spike the plug down (gently a little bit at a time works just fine!). If it is a GM "High Energy System" use the quarter and the dime. "Time" the points using the dime to loosen the points, and gap it by using the matchbook cover. The engine will run rough, not like taking a load (i.e. accelerating or going up a hill), but it will limp you back home. Quick fix for a broken fan (or other) belt is to tie a pair of panty-hose around the pulleys!!! Won't last you long, but hopefully it will get you out from where-ever you're stuck... Nylon hose works, but not as well.
This more of a modern day operator issue. Anyone that grew up driving carbed vehicles know if it does not fire off right away on a warm engine, you depress the accelerator while cranking, this will start the engine 100% of the time.
A big thanks for the video but I'm puzzled by your conclusion. Your Jeep started a lot quicker and idled in a less lumpy fashion yet you put the old plugs back in?? With its woeful 6 volt electrics and primitive carburettor it surely needs all the help it can get. Or do you just prefer the originality?
There was a possible improvement to the start and idle but it I could have just been imagining it. It looked like the plugs were beginning to foul too on the limited use I put it through so on balance I didn't think it was worth continuing with them ;)
They were brand new clean spark plugs you would expect them to start and run well initially the true test would be to put a few thousand miles on them.
I cannot help but think that Jeeps worked well enough as originally built. But then I got into a real argument with some Rolls Royce types over a trip to the arctic in a 70s Rolls Royce; the auto choke wasn't working at the extreme low temperatures, I had the temerity to suggest that a manual choke and electronic ignition might help. Oh dear no, the thought that modern tech might actually be better, resulted in a pile on.
I can't imagine jumping in a jeep while running from a tank and not putting the gas peddle to the floor when starting. As soon as the engine is running I'd probably pop the clutch as well.
It matt so it will absorb oil and hand prints and get darker also its moving into Autumn no so the more orange sunlight makes the paint look a bit browner and darker!
THIS GUY KNOWS ALOT , GREAT JOB GREENDOT 319
I love your videos, I’m 21 years old and when I was 19 I bought a 1962 Hotchkiss M201 as my first car. Only now am I really starting to take an interest in the mechanical side, your videos are a great help :) thank you and keep up the good work!
This Jeep is just purrrfect….
Such a super restoration and such a fun series of experimentations….and I do appreciate the period costume….
Thank for the info. Half pie product substitution but easily overcome by proper driver training courses and workshop modification of inlet manifolds. You have to start with the basics when substituting components or setting up production of brand new kit.
The Yanks received the entire technical package for the perfected Hispano Suiza 20mm aircraft cannon form the British BUT failed to get that weapon into service because US Ordnance ‘experts’ decided to ream the chambers too deep for reliable function and reportedly refused to conform to the proven specification. That is why their later WW2 fighters were stuck with .50 cal machine guns instead of the 20mm Hispano Suiza cannons they were designed to carry.
The B36 bomber was notorious for engine problems. The piston engines fitted to that aeroplane in a pusher position were reportedly designed and built to work in pull configuration. As designed, the carburettors were behind the exhaust manifolds BUT with the engines installed backwards the carburettors were in front of the exhaust manifolds. Carburettor heaters, according to my understanding, are a backup system for use at high altitude and in abnormally cold conditions; as opposed to being the only means of ensuring reliable carburettor function in cold air conditions.
There are no true short cuts in design and manufacturing. When someone’s ‘bright new idea’ fails to work, you return to a proven reliable specification.
Love your Jeep videos, greetings from across the pond in the Deep South of the US. Driving a Jeep is Sweeeet!
Great info. You do a great job. As always I love your jeep and dedication
I was having backfire issues with my 48 2A (all stock 6v) last week and when it did run there was an odd vibration and not much power under load and was sputtering just over idle. I adjusted the timing and it continued. I pulled the plugs to look at them and #3 wasn't nearly as hot as the others. I tracked it down to one of my old plug wires was not bringing all of the spark to #3 so it was missing. Just swapped out standard plugs and wires and she runs great again.
i sometimes had some troubles also with Carter carburetor in the past, but run with jeeps is like a bet sometimes... will it run? At the end it always finish fine...
Nice one mr Dot , interesting as usual.
It must be hard to keep coming up with material but you always come up with the goods, and long may you.
So,in other words, the motor is now flooded. Way to go frenchie.
Gives the French a good excuse to surrender 😜🇬🇧
With progress, much knowledge is forgotten. Young drivers today have no understanding of these things. Back when I learned to drive, many cars and trucks still had manual chokes, and you quickly learned the rules for starting the engine when it was hot or cold, and how to start a flooded engine. Now we just press a button and it goes.
"It's a piece of junk! The Fuel system leaks all over the place!" - Moriarity (Kelly's Heroes) referring to the Tiger tank and it's Solex carburation...
Something about Solex also responsible for starting fires in Panthers...
#notsayinjustsayin ;)
Didn’t German tanks run diesel?
@@radaraacf Nein... das wort Ivan!
@@radaraacf Nope! Weird myth that will not die!
That was a movie script.
A good part of the German tank fuel fire problem was leaking fuel lines.
They couldn't get natural rubber and substituted synthetic rubber, which was itself scarce. Fuel lines and oil hoses were made of more fibers and minimum rubber. Using a minimum length of a weak, brittle substitute resulted in the lines leaking or breaking, especially with greater engine movement at start-up or panic driving in combat.
Adding to the problem, the heavier tanks were designed to ford streams and rivers rather than crush local bridges. To facilitate this, some had watertight engine compartments undertrays. Something that can keep water out will keep fuel and oil in when hoses burst.
Always with the negative waves Moriarity, always with the negative waves! 😁😁😁
1:48 pass - very cool! Thanks for another interesting video.
I have a Hillman Imp which, as standard, is fitted with a Solex carb. The inlet manifold has a small brass tube with a hole at the end, in effect a drain tube to prevent the manifold filling up with a float chamber's worth of fuel. No problems hot starting but could have been a different story without the drain tube.
Great video and knowledge, my Carter had absolutely no issues over a 10 year ownership in fact I never even fiddled with it at all which says a lot in my opinion 💪 well apart from the odd air n fuel adjustment on the screw you’d expect 😀
Surface gap plugs were standard in my 1970 Kawasaki 500 H1 motorcycle. They were used because they are the coldest plug available. They worked well, but I can see no advantage for a 4 stroke engine. They also tended to be short lived and I had to replace them yearly. That may have been an effect of leaded fuel, but I don't know that for certain.
Very interesting. I wonder how the solex on my landrover will perform once I get it running?
If it starts better and idles smoother y not try the sparky ⚡️ thingy’s longer term as a test???
Holster goes on your right hip, mate! ;)
Fantastic, I love the practical handson experimentation. Just put some plugs in and take it for a spin. Also really enjoyed the Messerschmitt episode. Keep up the good work!
I wonder if the guy's timing chain slipped a tooth or two. Sometimes, when you nurse an engine after changing out some parts, you think you've solved the problem when all you've done is masked it by driving it differently!
Field fix: How to get it home (for point systems like these jeeps and even into the 1970's! and a bit beyond depending on the engine!!)
Emery board like a woman using for her nails, sandpaper, matchbook cover (US or Canadian) Quarter and dime or another coin of similar thickness.
Clean the fouling off of the spark plugs with the sandpaper and then use the emery board to ensure flat surfaces. Gap by putting the quarter in-between the plug's spark parts (sorry forget what they call, I mainly work on diesels!) and spike the plug down (gently a little bit at a time works just fine!). If it is a GM "High Energy System" use the quarter and the dime.
"Time" the points using the dime to loosen the points, and gap it by using the matchbook cover.
The engine will run rough, not like taking a load (i.e. accelerating or going up a hill), but it will limp you back home.
Quick fix for a broken fan (or other) belt is to tie a pair of panty-hose around the pulleys!!! Won't last you long, but hopefully it will get you out from where-ever you're stuck... Nylon hose works, but not as well.
Surprising phenomenon for a French design.
Great video
This more of a modern day operator issue. Anyone that grew up driving carbed vehicles know if it does not fire off right away on a warm engine, you depress the accelerator while cranking, this will start the engine 100% of the time.
Hi matt did you recieve the pics of the radio shielding stuff please let me know thanks Roger
A big thanks for the video but I'm puzzled by your conclusion. Your Jeep started a lot quicker and idled in a less lumpy fashion yet you put the old plugs back in?? With its woeful 6 volt electrics and primitive carburettor it surely needs all the help it can get. Or do you just prefer the originality?
There was a possible improvement to the start and idle but it I could have just been imagining it. It looked like the plugs were beginning to foul too on the limited use I put it through so on balance I didn't think it was worth continuing with them ;)
They were brand new clean spark plugs you would expect them to start and run well initially the true test would be to put a few thousand miles on them.
I cannot help but think that Jeeps worked well enough as originally built. But then I got into a real argument with some Rolls Royce types over a trip to the arctic in a 70s Rolls Royce; the auto choke wasn't working at the extreme low temperatures, I had the temerity to suggest that a manual choke and electronic ignition might help. Oh dear no, the thought that modern tech might actually be better, resulted in a pile on.
I can't imagine jumping in a jeep while running from a tank and not putting the gas peddle to the floor when starting. As soon as the engine is running I'd probably pop the clutch as well.
If I were in a combat situation I would have left it running !
@@AJ-qn6gd
Fair point but sometimes you want the quiet and sometimes you don't have the fuel to waste.
so the '43 in profile pic has the starter button on dash
I will purchase a proper fitting jeep cap and send it to you as a gift, if you promise to burn that Keebler Kap🍸
This is why you don’t turn your engine on and off in combat, even today. It’s a non issue.
Have a question, why has your paint been getting darker since you painted it?
Btw great video!!!
It matt so it will absorb oil and hand prints and get darker also its moving into Autumn no so the more orange sunlight makes the paint look a bit browner and darker!
@@Greendot319 ohh so that’s why… thanks for letting me know!!
What's the part number of that plugs??
NGK BUHW-2
Love your vids but you have to drive your mb to Berlin !!!
Why is your flag on the wrong side of the window?
Great content! Tsk
Excremento de Anuncios
👍👍👍👍👈👉✌✌