Hey man thanks for the tutorial vid. Gave me the confidence to finally pull my carb and start messing with tuning myself instead of relying on the shop.
Popping means lean. Pull that choke and if it stops popping.. there you go. Lean. 178 is not too big depending on your elevation and mods. Try the needle in the 4th clip (top to bottom) and if it is an NCVQ needle it usually runs on the third clip.
I said that the entire video that it was lean and ran better on choke lol. 178 was too big that’s why it was shooting flames, unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Going down in size on the main made it run better.
@@dom_offroad Ahh gotcha I must have missed that part lol but poppin usually means lean guess it can go both ways? I have heard 50/50 say lean vs rich on the popping. What main did you end up using?
I have an 05 450 and after it gets warmed up and you rev it , it doesn’t wanna idle down. Or if you’re riding and hit the gas it doesn’t idle back down, it takes a while before it does. Almost like it sticks
Check throttle cable to make sure it slides smooth as well as the slide inside the carb if both are good, hanging idle is usually sign of being too lean. Might have to adjust fuel screw
Hi man , i have a question What is that thing in 3:57 ?? the metal spring thingy i really want to know becuase in my bike i have it on the wires and it rattles SOO MUCH IT MAKES ALOT OF NOISES when rpm is high just want its name if you know , thanks
@@2AHGT Not sure the exact term for it but it’s a spring that keeps the crank case vent hose from getting pinched or bent. You can remove it, won’t cause any issues.
@@dom_offroad no becuase i have it on most wires that are near the engine i told the mechanic from the company i bought the bike from and he said its to prevent heat idk to remove it or no
Nice video but seriously. You run it with that nasty air filter. Step 1 pull the plug get an idea if its rich or lean . Step 2 get rid of that air filter. Install a pro flo system and leave the lid off. Go back to stock jetting plus 1 or 2 rich. The stock needle is the one you had, no adjustment. Then bypass the tps sensor with a bypass plug.
So if it’s running rich, you’re suggesting a lower size jet? My 08 is running rich this last year and only has an aftermarket pipe. Any suggestions would be appreciated
How do you know it’s running rich? What are the symptoms and how does the spark plug look? What size main jet is in it now? Elevation plays an affect as well, lots of variables there, need more info. Thanks.
I have a 08 yfz 450r been running and riding fine the last couple days until the other afternoon I was riding and all of a sudden my four wheeler started back fireing and started trying to bog down on me it would take idle throttle at the time and made it back home still back firing and trying to bog down now it’s hard for me to even get it to idle oil is good still on the same level as it was got plenty of antifreeze does anyone know anything all answers are welcome NEED HELP ASAP
Might have sucked junk up into carb, pull it and check if it’s clean make sure jets and where the jets go are clear. I’d check spark plug might be fowled, check air filter make sure not plugged up. Make sure gas is good and at least 91 octane. If it’s hard to start cold could need valve adjustment also.
Would you happen to know what wrong with my 06 yfz450. It bogs at 2/8 throttle and dies making me lay on clutch a lil bit. I also road in the rain and before that it didn't do that iv only road 3 times after i bought it the 1st time i had no problems 2nd time problems started and now my oil is gray
Could be a lot man usually anything dealing with bogging or dying out is carb related so depends on your mods jetting and elevation. Rule of thumb, idle to 1/4 throttle is pilot jet or fuel screw, 1/2 to 3/4 is needle adjustment and full throttle is main jet. Just make sure you’re working with a good spark plug, fresh gas and a clean carb before you try tuning. Add yourself to the YFZ forums on FB, lots of knowledge and help in there or also good old google.
@@dom_offroad what do you have to say about oil tuning gray I went on sites and people say water got into oil my coolant hasn't moved and ot all started after I went through a deep puddle quik
@@thegunreviewer5598 if there was water in the oil it would be a milky brown, gray is somewhat normal as the oil is shared with the clutch and gearbox and you’ll get tiny bits of clutch as normal wear and will turn the oil a light gray. I’d only run amsoil or a high quality oil that’s made for wet clutch systems.
My 08 when I first start it I have to choke it and it turns off when I try to start going unless I have the choke half ways till I ride a couple mins then it's fine ? Also back fires and pops, got a big gun full exhaust
So if you need choke at anytime whether starting or riding, your idle to 1/4 throttle circuit is too lean, not enough fuel. You’ll have to bump up the small pilot jet to a 48 and that should help. Also make sure the passage where the pilot jet screws into is clean, blow it out with some air and carb cleaner. Hopefully that helps.
I have a 05 yfz i got it not running needing a water pump and needing the carb rebuild . I bought a rebuild carb kit and change the Jets and float Bike take a little time to start but when it start bike run fine in idle. But when you accelerate the bike pops like crazy the guy I got it from he said he did some stuff to the motor Any recommendations you have ?
Hey man thanks for the tutorial vid. Gave me the confidence to finally pull my carb and start messing with tuning myself instead of relying on the shop.
Popping means lean. Pull that choke and if it stops popping.. there you go. Lean. 178 is not too big depending on your elevation and mods. Try the needle in the 4th clip (top to bottom) and if it is an NCVQ needle it usually runs on the third clip.
I said that the entire video that it was lean and ran better on choke lol. 178 was too big that’s why it was shooting flames, unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Going down in size on the main made it run better.
@@dom_offroad Ahh gotcha I must have missed that part lol but poppin usually means lean guess it can go both ways? I have heard 50/50 say lean vs rich on the popping. What main did you end up using?
@@James-nt4yd went with a 168. Still pops some but not as bad.
That is the factory needle. Mine came with the same needle and oem rebuild kit came with the same needle
I have an 05 450 and after it gets warmed up and you rev it , it doesn’t wanna idle down. Or if you’re riding and hit the gas it doesn’t idle back down, it takes a while before it does. Almost like it sticks
Check throttle cable to make sure it slides smooth as well as the slide inside the carb if both are good, hanging idle is usually sign of being too lean. Might have to adjust fuel screw
@@dom_offroad thank you!
Hey man I just recently put a full hmf exhaust on my 2007 yfz450 an change the pilot to a 48 an main to 170. Now my exhaust is glowing an backfireing
Did you open up the air box or change to a high flow filter? Any other mods?
I got a 04 yfz450 idles fine and takes half throttle but once u try to rev it out hit the limiter it bogs out and doesn’t take it
Same. 😢
Same
Hi man , i have a question
What is that thing in 3:57 ?? the metal spring thingy i really want to know
becuase in my bike i have it on the wires and it rattles SOO MUCH IT MAKES ALOT OF NOISES when rpm is high
just want its name if you know , thanks
@@2AHGT Not sure the exact term for it but it’s a spring that keeps the crank case vent hose from getting pinched or bent. You can remove it, won’t cause any issues.
@@dom_offroad no becuase i have it on most wires that are near the engine
i told the mechanic from the company i bought the bike from and he said its to prevent heat idk to remove it or no
Nice video but seriously. You run it with that nasty air filter.
Step 1 pull the plug get an idea if its rich or lean . Step 2 get rid of that air filter. Install a pro flo system and leave the lid off. Go back to stock jetting plus 1 or 2 rich. The stock needle is the one you had, no adjustment. Then bypass the tps sensor with a bypass plug.
Hey man just recently got a 2008 yfz450 and it has a dasa full system on it. What jets would you recommend at about 2000ft above sea level
So if it’s running rich, you’re suggesting a lower size jet? My 08 is running rich this last year and only has an aftermarket pipe. Any suggestions would be appreciated
How do you know it’s running rich? What are the symptoms and how does the spark plug look? What size main jet is in it now? Elevation plays an affect as well, lots of variables there, need more info. Thanks.
Where can I get the pump accelerator?
I have a 08 yfz 450r been running and riding fine the last couple days until the other afternoon I was riding and all of a sudden my four wheeler started back fireing and started trying to bog down on me it would take idle throttle at the time and made it back home still back firing and trying to bog down now it’s hard for me to even get it to idle oil is good still on the same level as it was got plenty of antifreeze does anyone know anything all answers are welcome NEED HELP ASAP
Might have sucked junk up into carb, pull it and check if it’s clean make sure jets and where the jets go are clear. I’d check spark plug might be fowled, check air filter make sure not plugged up. Make sure gas is good and at least 91 octane. If it’s hard to start cold could need valve adjustment also.
Would you happen to know what wrong with my 06 yfz450. It bogs at 2/8 throttle and dies making me lay on clutch a lil bit. I also road in the rain and before that it didn't do that iv only road 3 times after i bought it the 1st time i had no problems 2nd time problems started and now my oil is gray
Could be a lot man usually anything dealing with bogging or dying out is carb related so depends on your mods jetting and elevation. Rule of thumb, idle to 1/4 throttle is pilot jet or fuel screw, 1/2 to 3/4 is needle adjustment and full throttle is main jet. Just make sure you’re working with a good spark plug, fresh gas and a clean carb before you try tuning. Add yourself to the YFZ forums on FB, lots of knowledge and help in there or also good old google.
@@dom_offroad what do you have to say about oil tuning gray I went on sites and people say water got into oil my coolant hasn't moved and ot all started after I went through a deep puddle quik
@@thegunreviewer5598 if there was water in the oil it would be a milky brown, gray is somewhat normal as the oil is shared with the clutch and gearbox and you’ll get tiny bits of clutch as normal wear and will turn the oil a light gray. I’d only run amsoil or a high quality oil that’s made for wet clutch systems.
We’re do you get your jet kits
My 08 when I first start it I have to choke it and it turns off when I try to start going unless I have the choke half ways till I ride a couple mins then it's fine ? Also back fires and pops, got a big gun full exhaust
So if you need choke at anytime whether starting or riding, your idle to 1/4 throttle circuit is too lean, not enough fuel. You’ll have to bump up the small pilot jet to a 48 and that should help. Also make sure the passage where the pilot jet screws into is clean, blow it out with some air and carb cleaner. Hopefully that helps.
Do you still have the can am outlander 1000 on 40s
I have a 05 yfz i got it not running needing a water pump and needing the carb rebuild . I bought a rebuild carb kit and change the Jets and float
Bike take a little time to start but when it start bike run fine in idle. But when you accelerate the bike pops like crazy the guy I got it from he said he did some stuff to the motor
Any recommendations you have ?
Jetting is off. Need to do some research on jetting depending on what mods it has done.
I just got a yfz and I need some help. You have an instagram account I can message you from ?