Just a suggestion Is it not worth spraying some WD40 when you have taking it part way out so when you are turning it back and forth into the block it will lubricate the thread
We get engine fully warm & up to running temp. adding oil in glow plug well before starting. Always use Never-seize or equivalent on threads of new plugs makes all the difference ! Great video & good advise as always.
Thats how I do them too. I rarely get one stuck this was. If I do have a tight one I soak it down with WD40 overnight and run it up to temp the following day. I repeat this until its out.
And for safety against snapping you can use a torque wrench in reverse set to like 3x the installation torque, with a u-joint to prevent side loading. That way you definitely won't snap it.
I did this job on my Merc C250 - doused the plugs in WD40 went for a good drive - hot engine - more WD40 get a little movement - back and forth very gingerly - ended up with Mole Grips on one - pull and turn at same time - and eventually they came out. One was a beggar though and it took me a couple hours of the above to get it out. Slow and steady wins this game..Brill vid!
I always get engine hot as possible then put a wet rag where poss on glow plug to cool it down, (heat expands, cold shrinks) that usually get buggers out ! Like in vid ,always go back and forth on any tight thread ,will save agro later, also crank engine over without plugs in to blow all crap out of hole and ALLWAYS put copper grease on thread when replacing !
I did mine last year after I diagnosed only 2 were working, had that squeaking and didn't turn it back every turn and got to the end when it was off the threads n the tip snapped. Tried the second one but turned it back this time but couldn't for the life of me get it out it was that stuck in there with shit, squirted wd down there, tightened it back up to do another day 'cause it started snowing but once it was cracked off it came out by hand and pulled straight out like everything was brand new. It came out that easy I almost shit my pants thinking I'd snapped another so I did the same with the other 2 and it was the easiest job I've done on the car which totally beats trying to pull it with grips, prying it out, prying it whilst twisting it for an hour in the cold. Still need to get the tip out like but that's not the only thing on the list to fix
My 1.8 tdci used to start fine in -4 C with faulty glow plugs! If they had started making those noises taking them out I would have just left them. Good stuff mate
Sure am glad I found your video before I jumped in to my first glow plug job...I'm a diesel noob with a new to me `08 Jeep with the 3.0 Mercedes OM642 and 278 000 kms on the odometer. It's cylinder 6 up by the firewall with junk overhead. I'll be working in the driveway in January in Canada, not a great time to "learn to do by doing". Thanks for taking me to school!
I used to have the same environmental issues in Denmark. I ended up buying an old army tent from a surplus store and erected this over the front of my car (an old mercedes c250) It was great as you were out of the weather and could set up lights and a heater and work in relative comfort
I know you said you didn't use it, but would wd40 have helped get it out? Or would it have ruined the sound effects and possibly led to you going full pelt on the plug and possibly snapping it?
I would have put some spray oil in there. recently rebuilt an alternator and letting spray oil soak into the bearing pressed in edges made removing the bearings a breeze. Looking forward to no 4 :) Keep up mate!
@@armunro alternator bearings and heater plugs two completely different things heater plugs gummed up with carbon and getting hot and cold very hot and cold on numerous occasions is completely different to Bearings inside an alternator I'm telling you WD40 in this case would have done nothing
Was thinking a bit of oil would help cut/clean the thread as you are working it loose. Heat helps; especially on rusted up exhaust bolts. So maybe a hot engine would help? btw what happen with no 4; am intreaged to know :)
I put my son's 2.8Ltr diesel Toyota Ute into our local Auto Electrician to replace glow plugs. Frikkin' Moron snapped off two, Inside cylinders, "Not my fault" he says frikkin' arse ho! Dumb me, never again! Wish I'd given you the job. Well done mate!! I live in Maitland NSW OZtralia.
This worked a treat for me on a 2004 Renault Master 2.5 dci. I needed long nose grips to retrieve the plug from situe as it would not just slide out. Fantastic job fantastic video. Thank you.
Snapping is avoidable by using a torque wrench in reverse, and a u-joint to prevent side load. The glow plug manufacturers usually give a max allowed breakaway torque, it's something like 3x the installation torque. That way you can be 99.9% sure it won't snap. Also big thing is letting oil soak in for a dew days / preferably heat cycles with the oil sitting there. Then retry with the torque wrench. Also the engine should be fully at operating temp when loosening them - the aluminium expands and loosens around the steel glow plugs. But you need to let it cool down fully before reinstall. That's doing it the "right way" but takes a very long time.
My garage just phoned to say he had spent 1.5 hours removing 4 glow plugs seized in the head - I will slip hip an extra £30 quid on top of the bill - what an awful job, but a wonderful video and thanks for showing i feel guilty know, but a job well-done!
Another great video Leon,thanks for sharing.I still spray WD on them even though we know it doesn't get down in but at the time it just makes you feel better 😀😀
I wish I’d found your video before attempting to my glow plugs! Sound advice and really helpful, your videos are very good I will be looking for your advice on other projects for sure! Thanks again 👍👍
Lovely. These are very well experienced hands . How much experienced is it with motor vehicles? Bless me with tips, going to remove glow plugs from 1.4 TDCI Ford , 10 years 80000 miles on it.
Snapped one before removing them on my Vivaro ...hardly and pressure used they were like chocolate! When I’ve done them since i use a t bar instead of a ratchet as seems to keep the force on centrally
My experience mate if they're going to snap there's nothing you can do about it they're just going to snap there is a feel once you get the feel does take a bit of time in practice to get the feel
@@bodgitandleggitgarage The sickening feeling of one breaking burns into your brain, next time you know when you getting close to breaking another, lol.
Great job. Do you know to remove stucked glow plug ? I have p0380 code. I think that one or more glow plug are faulty, because voltage on a wire on glow plugs is 10V when glowplug on dashboard indicator is on. Regards.
i wanted to change my glow plugs today. The 1st 3 came out ok , then the last one i had the same squeak like you , i turned and turned but would not come out at all. Now i think i ruined the threat from the glow plug itself ?? i could get out out i would say half way ? The car started but i am scared to drive ?? What can i do ??
I'm doing this now, and 2 out of 4 are seized worse than the one you are showing here. Literally just sat at my bench for a bit to get out of the rain for a break. Mine are only turning slightly, but by doing what you did I managed to get one free but it took well over an hour and a half to fully undo. Using a little 1/4" ratchet in the hope that it's short enough for me not to put too much force on it. Can see what you mean about WD40 being very little use here. No way can it get down to that coked up shaft. Don't know how you quote for this kind of work mate, as this is easily going to take me all day.
4 года назад
Thanks mate, i just needed to see it to be confident that i can do it and you fixed that one.
No, it doesn’t work unless you’re working it in and out like he was and spray it on before screwing it back in. That will carry a small bit in each time you reseat the plug, but it really doesn’t work. The new glow plugs need to be installed with anti-seize, even at the factory, to help alleviate this problem.
Hi mate no do not use copper grease copper grease act like sandpaper and it will destroy the threads and also make it harder to come out there is other Grease is out there I personally don't think they work in this case but definitely don't use copper grease copper grease is good for What It's designed for but not for threads or any moving shafts
@@markholyoak9790 hi mate normal grease will not work as it will not be able to cope with the temperatures and just get gunned up and make things even worse to be honest I haven't really found any Grease to do this properly I'm not saying it's not out there I just haven't found anything that I would say works at the minute good quality heater plugs are better than the cheaper ones I have found the cheaper ones tend to get stuck and seized a lot easier
Hi love ya vids, I noticed another you tuber Pulled outer thread casing from glow plug but the rest stayed in,His advise were to Grasp the top with nose pliers tap down gently and pull up and repeat this will relieve any inner stuck in glow plug,saved him a pretty penny,same if the glow plug thread is just spinning you will have that little bit of play to tap down and pull up with screw driver under the nut shaped part while unscrewing the glow plug,Hope this helps if having a future issue with above
Hi mate not sure about that cos you can still cause other problems use good quality parts I've noticed the cheaper heater plugs tend to get stuck / seized a lot easier
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Wise words as usual. Cheers. Did you ever treat yourself to the Knipex 45 21 200 30 pliers for the odd C clips Toyota use on solid axles etc.
Hi there, I have been fighting for some time now with my mondeo/x-type project 2.0tdci and i got 2 broken glow plugs inside of the engine. After several attempts I have given up trying this and I have to open the Cylinder Head so i can kick them out. Do you have video where you open the cylinder head and install it back? Im asking this because i have no idea what im supposed to do, i will try using common sense and to tight back i have no values for Nm torque. help? :) cheers!
Hi mate you can but it doesn't really work it might stop the squeaking but it's not going to work if it's going to snap it's going to snap there's loads of RUclips videos out there people proving that most penetration oils just do not work with heat candle wax allsorts it just depends on the situation but as you can see I prove from this video you don't need anything in this case
I've heard that if you get the engine warmed up by going for a drive after soaking recesses in penetrating oil. Then use freeze spray directly on the plug it makes it easier but never tried it and might give it a go when my van needs some new ones 👍😉
Always bring engine up to operating temperature first and soak plugs in liberal amount of penetration oil. Ream bore, clean threads and seat before fitting new glow plug.
Hi mate what happens is the tip of the electro boulders up and is too big to pass through the engine block hole what you have to do is get it pushed into the cylinder take the injector out use a magma and get the tip out that way there is a special tool for it I have done a video on it Hubitools have the kit tell them I've sent you they will look after you
@@bodgitandleggitgarage i just forgt to mention that in my case i have the thing a little bit f@#$%. i have the central electrode and the tip inside, the rest of the spark plug got out but with this 'wire' i think im not sure i can adopt your tip top of pushing it inside without first removing this electrode, and because its tip is so short, its even more complicated to user pliers or something else. i will look into your hubitols video and please feel free to share some leads :)
Changed heaters on an old 1998 seat ibiza with the old 1.9 non turbo diesel. Can remember one been behind the fuel pump which was a tad fiddly had one think was cross threaded in the head from a previous time ( not me) so changed the other three and left it at that
Worth adding, put some coppa slip on the threads of the new ones. Will make it easy to get out next time if needed to. Also whenever we do track rod ends put coppa slip on the steering arm and track rod. Saves all the hassle of it being siezed next time it needs to be adjusted/come off.
Hi mate are you referring to copper grease because personally I don't use copper grease on anything with a thread because of the bit that's in it and it acts like sandpaper or are you referring to a different type of Grease
@@bodgitandleggitgarage yea copper grease, pad grease. there's no movement when the glow plugs are tightened up so no wear between the surfaces, it's very soft copper dust in the grease. They are guaranteed not to sieze in. Just done a second set of glow plugs after 80k on a Ford that had this stuff on, they practically fell out. Steel of the plugs and alloy heads are prone to reacting and sizing the plugs in, coppa slip prevents this. Try it.
It's like everything made it has its uses for certain applications it most probably would have stopped the squeaking noise but it would not have penetrated or the hard material that was caught in the threads in this case
Thanx for ur help !! Took the glow plugs out of my 2003, transit today. Used ur technique which worked a treat. 1 although appeared to un screw, well it did unscrew but then would not pull out ? So improvised and wrapped wire around the head and held with pliers. Then pulled on that whilst wiggling the nut and it then came free. Caked in black soot etc. Everything cleaned up, including inlet manifold and egr. Then all back together !! Good afternoons work ???
Done mine a few weeks ago on the same engine, 3 of them popped out easy but the last one wasn’t budging, starts a lot better now, I used new Bosch ones and the bit to put the socket on was a lot longer so it doesn’t slip off as easy.
hi mate you only have two options one you buy you the special tool to remove it it and replace it it Hubitools do a special kit you can contact them tell them I sent you and they will look after you or the other options which is a lot more expensive strip the head remove everything and take it to a machine shop or just take it to somebody who has the right tools
Do you think glow plugs are responsible for my dpf not reaching 600C? It is usually around 500C when regenerating but the soot level is stuck at 45g and seems to go lower when temperature gets occasionally higher than 500C
Hi mate are you referring to if the if the threads are damaged if so depends how bad damage they are you sometimes can we tap them or sometimes you have to helicoils them
Did #4 break? Father in law just brought a new wagon with an already broken glow plug in it. I've got as far as drilling it an trying an easy out but she ain't budging. Normally I would just drill it all the way out if it wasn't for the electrode on the end.
When I did them on my car I snapped one of the tips off which I never got out and managed to get the other 3 out. Trouble I had was I got them to the end of the thread but they were not coming out no matter what I tried, so I ended up spraying wd40 down the holes and tightened them back up ‘cause it started snowing, went back to try again a few days later, I cracked them off and they came out by hand, came out so easily I actually thought I’d snapped the first one
I would still advise using WD40, or a mix of paraffin and lube oil. Give a good soaking when the heater plug starts to move and leave for an hour or so. Stripped threads or broken plugs will NOT bring a grin to your face.
Hi mate unfortunately in this case like I explained in the video it would not have done any good all it would have done it stop this weekend there was too much carbon build-up inside the fridge no amount of WD40 or any other penetration oil would have got through this there is plenty of videos on RUclips proving this even with serious heat it still cannot get through
Absolutely would help as plus gas is a dedicated penetrating oil and would find its way right down the root/crest clearance path inside the thread. Incidentally WD40 is not a penetrating oil as it is designed for removing water (W D = Water Displacement ) not creeping into assembled parts and freeing them off
Just wd'd mine up for a week. only needed to do 1 and it came out like a charm. Did it with a red hot engine,took 5 minutes. In fact it was so easy i thought I'd snapped it. 😂
I was just doing it service and I tester heater plugs just as a matter of course and 3 of them were bad we haven't had the weather or should I say we haven't had cold enough weather to affect it starting but we are getting into the winter so just as well changing them now
May I pick your brains please bud? I’ve have a mk 6 transit tourneo, a few months now. It has 18 inch ally wheels. Just passed mot np. The thing is at around 40-45 mph there’s a wobble worse on acceleration. As mot was ok bearings etc must be ok. New tyres fitted so balancing should be ok? Do you think it’s possible the wheels are u.s o front wheel drive. Thanks mate for your thoughts in advance.
@@paulelliott2861 hi mate if the problem only happens when you put the big wheels on it can really only be a problem with the wheels either they're not fitted correctly and what I mean by that is some wheels have an inner ring that sits on the hub to centre it properly make sure you have that ring if not one of the wheels could be badly warped make sure there's no welding or any marks on them this could also throw it out
bodgit and leggit garage thanks buddy there bud came with these wheels . Once I got it home my wife said” them tyres don’t look right “ I took it to a tyre place and yes indeed they where incorrect. They where car tyres. Had them replaced. I did not see any rings on them but there offside front has a large number off balance weights on it. I have a set of standard wheels and tyres. So will change over. Thanks bud.
Glow plug on this video syl nr 2.. Reson it making this sound is it full of sott"cox" on the part that is inside sylinder, so its making this sound as you force the coxs of the tip + its not sealed so its leaking a bit. And a good indication that this sylinder do have a problem on injector + valve seals leaking so its burning a bit of oil .
Hi mate I hear what you are saying but that's not always the case did a compression test on this car all is good no problems not burning oil it also depends on how the car is driven on unfortunately this car is not driven properly short journeys never gets time to heat up properly
Would it help if the engine was hot?? and some releasing fluid sprayed on the plug and let it soak into the thread ?? Who designs these things !!!!!!!!!!!!!! obviously they don't work on car engines in the shop !!!!!!! Love the sound !!! glad it was'nt on my engine!!!! Great video by the way. Would you pu ta little copper ease on the new thread ???
I've been battling this for a couple of days now! Not sure how you eventually got it out, but mine seems to come out all the way just like that (noise and all!) but at the end of the thread seems to just spin in place so I can't remove it. This plug seems to be the only plug that has been previously replaced (the tip was different and service says a plug was replaced), but I've replaced the other 3 so would like to replace this one as well. Screws back in ok'ish though so maybe I should just leave it....??
Hi mate, what it sounds like is the end of the glow plug has bulged out? This is caused by Heat and the plug breaking down. Again, I'm not 100% sure because I'm not there, but that's what it sounds like if that is the case you are unfortunately in a bit of trouble as it cannot be removed. The only way to do it is to try and break the end off and take out the injector and remove the piece but you have to be very careful doing this. As you can call permanent damage to your engine if you don't have the tools. I personally would leave it or go to a garage that does.
All the experts tell you to warm the engine and use some sort of penetrating fluid both before and during the removal. I have no idea why you did neither. Were you just being tight? I'd also consider getting a smaller torque wrench which can be set to the low values required for these glow plugs.
Not at all in this case like I explained in the video yes it would have stopped the noise but that's still would not have helped anything the threads have got all carbon up with heavy carbon deposits WD-40 will not break through this all it would have done was stop the noise the process is still the same
My son said that he tried renewing his glow plugs and they were very tight, did I have any suggestions? Which is his way of saying would I do it for him ! We swapped cars Friday night. I let the engine cool and then applied lots of WD40. I know real men go in dry etc but not with these you don't. Lube is your friend in this case. Like you I went back and forth, lots of lube used and all four came out much easier than what my son described. I only used 2 specialist tools:- 1. A deep 10mm socket 2. 40 years experience on the railway
Hi mate like I said in the video wd 40 absolute waste of time I did not use it in this video and would not use For this application it is not lubricant There's not a lot you can really do trying heat the car up turn the engine on let it tick over for a long period of time get it nice and hot and take your time The problem is if they re going to break there is nothing you can do some cars they just break unfortunately they can be an absolute nightmare
@@bodgitandleggitgarage if they're going to break, then yes they're going to break. You're absolutely correct on that, known in the industry as "Ford Mondeo Syndrome". Have no idea why - LOL. Of course the thing with our industries is a person's experience and preferred method of working. We're not all correct, and we're not all wrong. We tend to find a way that works for us, and we're happy with it
I had a similar problem with my car recently a 57 plate vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp, did 3 on my own that were quite easy to take out but 1 glowplug was seized and squeaky like in this video. Took it to a mechanic at a home address and he was using all his strength moving it back and forwards, his arm was shaking he was using so much pressure on his arms and the glow plug was very squeaky as he was turning it. I told him to stop several times as I felt he would break it. He carried on and suddenly it came loose but would not come out but kept spinning. Fearing the worst I took it to an engine repair shop and he managed to remove it in 15 minutes and only charged me 10 pound. Looked at the old plug and half the threads had sheared off it. Probably when the home mechanic was putting all his strength into getting it out. I think maybe he was trying to snap it on purpose to get a job off me to extract it, I no longer bother with this guy. Its nice to see someone like you doing this job with caution treating it like your own car and doing the job carefully and properly, shows their are mechanics out there who do care for the cars and the customers who they belong to
@@Carlostype yes he was going back and forth but using all his strength, he was even thinking of getting a hammer and hitting it once it got too tight for him to turn but I would not allow it. I no longer use his services
I have a problem removing one, and I feel the click click feel of a turn but its not coming out its like something is turning on the glow plug but not the glow plugs thread I think part of its nut body is spinning ugh!!
Hi mate what can happen is they can break pass the threads because the tip can swell up in this case if this is the case you are going to need some specialist tools and can turn into an absolute nightmare
Hi mate I've never known any to work properly especially in this type of environment where it gets very hot and cold thousands of times I do see your point just haven't really found one that works properly
my heater plug came out after the end snapped off after putting redx one shot in now my friend is using it on customers cars when the same happens , it takes a good couple of days before the hell is let loose
Great videos, mate. Unfortunately i'm in the latter group whose plugs are still stuck (rounded heads) in a Renault master 2.5L after trying with a bolt extractor to no avail. Probably asking a bit much for a follow up video on that but it couldn't come a day too soon!
Done 5 of 6 on my Audi number 2 has loosened (or snapped)it just keeps turning and i can pull it up about 5 mm but it won't come out the rest came out quite easily.Should have left it.
That's right, hot engine, I use a tin of pipe freeze from plumbing shop on the glow plug, well not a tin but enough just to cool it a couple of thou. If you get one that doesn't shift.
To prevent the glow plug snapping in the first place, I think it is best to use an Impact Wrench and in my opinion only use that, no other tool. The is because the reason, I think, it is more likely that an old glow plug may snap is undue side load. I'll try to explain this; So as well as the rotational torque, if you are not careful you can apply a side bending force that will cause the head of the glow plug to bend side ways a little when you apply force. This is made worst if you use longer extension bar on your wrench as this acts as a lever applying more bending force if you are not careful. I suspect it is this force that cause the glow plug head to snap. If the force can be kept purely rotational (i.e. Impact wrench) then I think the old plug will come out without snapping. What do people think agree/disagree?
I have always liked that livery by the way you spell colours wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 and yes I know what you're going to say but we invented the language so we have the right to know how to spell it🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@theadventuresofjavier8698 I think we both know you drive on the wrong side of the road after all you call a gas that you put in your car's but petrol is a liquid how can gas be a liquid hahaha I think that proves my point that we drive on the right side of the road🤔🤔🤔
Leon you gave me two f..king heart attacks, I thought it snapped twice😄 But great job and thanks. Any reason why you didn’t use wd40? I’m doing my freelander 1 td4 soon, anything I need to look out for?
Hi mate to be honest WD40 just doesn't really get him I haven't seen any zuid to work in this circumstances it's clogged up so much it just will not penetrate there's lots of videos out there proving this fact nothing really to look out for just take your time with it and you should be fine
All that would have done will stop the squeaking noise it wouldn't have penetrated the carbon build up up in the heater plugs yes it would have stopped the noise any oil would have stopped the noise but that wasn't the point of the video just because the noise stopped doesn't mean that they won't break
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
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9 mins of my dog try to to kill the lap top thinking its a squeaky toy lol
hahahahahaahaha good doggy good doggy
Why not just give your doggy a squeaky toy then ?
@@Arounadabout 30 seconds and its on 1000 bits pmsl
@@simonrawle7885
What are you talking about ???
@@Arounadabout the dog will destroy a squeaky toy in 30 seconds flat
Just a suggestion Is it not worth spraying some WD40 when you have taking it part way out so when you are turning it back and forth into the block it will lubricate the thread
I would or penetration spray
To at least stop the squeaking....
You'd feel as ...well I tried my best ...
Come on WD40. JEEEZ
Without adding a fine lubricant, the risk of heat buildup could cause a complete seizure and/or thread tearing.
We get engine fully warm & up to running temp. adding oil in glow plug well before starting. Always use Never-seize or equivalent on threads of new plugs makes all the difference !
Great video & good advise as always.
Thats how I do them too. I rarely get one stuck this was. If I do have a tight one I soak it down with WD40 overnight and run it up to temp the following day. I repeat this until its out.
And for safety against snapping you can use a torque wrench in reverse set to like 3x the installation torque, with a u-joint to prevent side loading. That way you definitely won't snap it.
I did this job on my Merc C250 - doused the plugs in WD40 went for a good drive - hot engine - more WD40 get a little movement - back and forth very gingerly - ended up with Mole Grips on one - pull and turn at same time - and eventually they came out. One was a beggar though and it took me a couple hours of the above to get it out. Slow and steady wins this game..Brill vid!
Mech friend of mine swears by brake fluid as a penetrant, WD is good but is after all a water/moisture displaced ?
A masterclass in working on a car!!Brilliant!!
I always get engine hot as possible then put a wet rag where poss on glow plug to cool it down, (heat expands, cold shrinks) that usually get buggers out ! Like in vid ,always go back and forth on any tight thread ,will save agro later, also crank engine over without plugs in to blow all crap out of hole and ALLWAYS put copper grease on thread when replacing !
👍
This method is close to huge problems without spray.
But respect to yuo for feel that moment..
I did mine last year after I diagnosed only 2 were working, had that squeaking and didn't turn it back every turn and got to the end when it was off the threads n the tip snapped. Tried the second one but turned it back this time but couldn't for the life of me get it out it was that stuck in there with shit, squirted wd down there, tightened it back up to do another day 'cause it started snowing but once it was cracked off it came out by hand and pulled straight out like everything was brand new. It came out that easy I almost shit my pants thinking I'd snapped another so I did the same with the other 2 and it was the easiest job I've done on the car which totally beats trying to pull it with grips, prying it out, prying it whilst twisting it for an hour in the cold. Still need to get the tip out like but that's not the only thing on the list to fix
My 1.8 tdci used to start fine in -4 C with faulty glow plugs! If they had started making those noises taking them out I would have just left them. Good stuff mate
lol thanks mate
I had a 3 cylinder tdi with 1 snapped glow plug, started fine for years in the cold
Sure am glad I found your video before I jumped in to my first glow plug job...I'm a diesel noob with a new to me `08 Jeep with the 3.0 Mercedes OM642 and 278 000 kms on the odometer. It's cylinder 6 up by the firewall with junk overhead. I'll be working in the driveway in January in Canada, not a great time to "learn to do by doing". Thanks for taking me to school!
Best of luck with it mate I'm glad my video Help that's what it's all about
I used to have the same environmental issues in Denmark. I ended up buying an old army tent from a surplus store and erected this over the front of my car (an old mercedes c250) It was great as you were out of the weather and could set up lights and a heater and work in relative comfort
hi do you have a video of snapped glow plugs. basically what happened is the nut has just spun so does that mean it’s snapped
I'm going to be doing my om606 glow plugs soon, just plucking up the courage 😅 have been taking note, thank you.
I know you said you didn't use it, but would wd40 have helped get it out? Or would it have ruined the sound effects and possibly led to you going full pelt on the plug and possibly snapping it?
I would have put some spray oil in there. recently rebuilt an alternator and letting spray oil soak into the bearing pressed in edges made removing the bearings a breeze.
Looking forward to no 4 :) Keep up mate!
@@armunro alternator bearings and heater plugs two completely different things heater plugs gummed up with carbon and getting hot and cold very hot and cold on numerous occasions is completely different to Bearings inside an alternator I'm telling you WD40 in this case would have done nothing
What about doinf it with the engine hot since the materials have different coefficients of expansion.
Was thinking a bit of oil would help cut/clean the thread as you are working it loose. Heat helps; especially on rusted up exhaust bolts. So maybe a hot engine would help? btw what happen with no 4; am intreaged to know :)
@@rimmersbryggeri heat expands metal and it would have been more difficult.
I put my son's 2.8Ltr diesel Toyota Ute into our local Auto Electrician to replace glow plugs. Frikkin' Moron snapped off two, Inside cylinders, "Not my fault" he says frikkin' arse ho! Dumb me, never again! Wish I'd given you the job. Well done mate!! I live in Maitland NSW OZtralia.
This worked a treat for me on a 2004 Renault Master 2.5 dci. I needed long nose grips to retrieve the plug from situe as it would not just slide out. Fantastic job fantastic video. Thank you.
boom sorted glad to help you mate
Snapping is avoidable by using a torque wrench in reverse, and a u-joint to prevent side load. The glow plug manufacturers usually give a max allowed breakaway torque, it's something like 3x the installation torque. That way you can be 99.9% sure it won't snap. Also big thing is letting oil soak in for a dew days / preferably heat cycles with the oil sitting there. Then retry with the torque wrench. Also the engine should be fully at operating temp when loosening them - the aluminium expands and loosens around the steel glow plugs. But you need to let it cool down fully before reinstall. That's doing it the "right way" but takes a very long time.
I did one like this - took me an hour - relief!
My garage just phoned to say he had spent 1.5 hours removing 4 glow plugs seized in the head - I will slip hip an extra £30 quid on top of the bill - what an awful job, but a wonderful video and thanks for showing i feel guilty know, but a job well-done!
Great video Leon, with the new one going in, would ad any copper paste tonthe threads?
Great video. You have saved a lot of us much trouble.
Thanks for the information. I have seen other videos where they use WD40. Why don't you use it? Can it cause problems?
Another great video Leon,thanks for sharing.I still spray WD on them even though we know it doesn't get down in but at the time it just makes you feel better 😀😀
Yes mate it's certainly feels better but doesn't do anything hahaha
Remember doing these on my old 1.7dti astra van on 180k. Was a happy man when they all came out lol
Wow you got all four out on a 1.7 Astra you need to give yourself lots of pets on the back there mate lol
I wish I’d found your video before attempting to my glow plugs! Sound advice and really helpful, your videos are very good I will be looking for your advice on other projects for sure! Thanks again 👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Very good instructional video. Vey helpful when working on an old engine. Do more videos, thanks.
Best video on the topic, removed one today, just also use some penetration oil and heat up the engine.
I am so glad I don’t have to work on diesel engines. Great job mate. Cheers 👍👍😁
Thanks mate
Did you run the egine before getting them out? Someone tried to assure me to do so
Lovely. These are very well experienced hands .
How much experienced is it with motor vehicles?
Bless me with tips, going to remove glow plugs from 1.4 TDCI Ford , 10 years 80000 miles on it.
Snapped one before removing them on my Vivaro ...hardly and pressure used they were like chocolate! When I’ve done them since i use a t bar instead of a ratchet as seems to keep the force on centrally
My experience mate if they're going to snap there's nothing you can do about it they're just going to snap there is a feel once you get the feel does take a bit of time in practice to get the feel
@@bodgitandleggitgarage The sickening feeling of one breaking burns into your brain, next time you know when you getting close to breaking another, lol.
Great job. Do you know to remove stucked glow plug ? I have p0380 code. I think that one or more glow plug are faulty, because voltage on a wire on glow plugs is 10V when glowplug on dashboard indicator is on. Regards.
i wanted to change my glow plugs today. The 1st 3 came out ok , then the last one i had the same squeak like you , i turned and turned but would not come out at all. Now i think i ruined the threat from the glow plug itself ?? i could get out out i would say half way ? The car started but i am scared to drive ?? What can i do ??
did you spray a lube or WD40?
Do you do it when engines hot?
I'm doing this now, and 2 out of 4 are seized worse than the one you are showing here.
Literally just sat at my bench for a bit to get out of the rain for a break.
Mine are only turning slightly, but by doing what you did I managed to get one free but it took well over an hour and a half to fully undo.
Using a little 1/4" ratchet in the hope that it's short enough for me not to put too much force on it.
Can see what you mean about WD40 being very little use here. No way can it get down to that coked up shaft.
Don't know how you quote for this kind of work mate, as this is easily going to take me all day.
Thanks mate, i just needed to see it to be confident that i can do it and you fixed that one.
Does spraying penetrating oil on them a day on two before help? Great demo btw 👍
No, it doesn’t work unless you’re working it in and out like he was and spray it on before screwing it back in. That will carry a small bit in each time you reseat the plug, but it really doesn’t work. The new glow plugs need to be installed with anti-seize, even at the factory, to help alleviate this problem.
can you put copper grease on the new heater plugs
Yes, on the threads only
Hi mate no do not use copper grease copper grease act like sandpaper and it will destroy the threads and also make it harder to come out there is other Grease is out there I personally don't think they work in this case but definitely don't use copper grease copper grease is good for What It's designed for but not for threads or any moving shafts
@@bodgitandleggitgarage
Thank you Leon, I always take your advice on board 😊
@@bodgitandleggitgarage can you put normal grease on threads if you replacing them so that it makes it easier for next time
@@markholyoak9790 hi mate normal grease will not work as it will not be able to cope with the temperatures and just get gunned up and make things even worse to be honest I haven't really found any Grease to do this properly I'm not saying it's not out there I just haven't found anything that I would say works at the minute good quality heater plugs are better than the cheaper ones I have found the cheaper ones tend to get stuck and seized a lot easier
Hi love ya vids,
I noticed another you tuber Pulled outer thread casing from glow plug but the rest stayed in,His advise were to Grasp the top with nose pliers tap down gently and pull up and repeat this will relieve any inner stuck in glow plug,saved him a pretty penny,same if the glow plug thread is just spinning you will have that little bit of play to tap down and pull up with screw driver under the nut shaped part while unscrewing the glow plug,Hope this helps if having a future issue with above
Good video.
Would your recommend taking them out once a year to stop them seizing?
Preferable in the summer months.
Hi mate not sure about that cos you can still cause other problems use good quality parts I've noticed the cheaper heater plugs tend to get stuck / seized a lot easier
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Wise words as usual. Cheers. Did you ever treat yourself to the
Knipex 45 21 200 30 pliers for the odd C clips Toyota use on solid axles etc.
Hi there, I have been fighting for some time now with my mondeo/x-type project 2.0tdci and i got 2 broken glow plugs inside of the engine. After several attempts I have given up trying this and I have to open the Cylinder Head so i can kick them out. Do you have video where you open the cylinder head and install it back? Im asking this because i have no idea what im supposed to do, i will try using common sense and to tight back i have no values for Nm torque. help? :) cheers!
Have you tried Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, it would help on removing the boots and glow plugs.
Can i use the impact wrench?
No. Recipe for disaster
Hey mate I have done a video I'm using a very special impact air tool for this job
Can u put any lubricant,???
Cellulose thinners can help to soften burnt carbon if you can get some in there.
Hi mate you can but it doesn't really work it might stop the squeaking but it's not going to work if it's going to snap it's going to snap there's loads of RUclips videos out there people proving that most penetration oils just do not work with heat candle wax allsorts it just depends on the situation but as you can see I prove from this video you don't need anything in this case
As long as its making noise, you're good. Its when the noise stops that they snap!
Lol very true mate
I've heard that if you get the engine warmed up by going for a drive after soaking recesses in penetrating oil. Then use freeze spray directly on the plug it makes it easier but never tried it and might give it a go when my van needs some new ones 👍😉
Good tip, always use ceramic grease on threads and lower body when putting a new plug in.
👍
And on injectors too. Yup works a treat
Always bring engine up to operating temperature first and soak plugs in liberal amount of penetration oil.
Ream bore, clean threads and seat before fitting new glow plug.
that can help but not 100% guaranteed
hi there. my 2.0 tdci got 2 spark plugs snaped and one got out but the central eletrode is still stucked in engine. any tip top? cheers
Hi mate what happens is the tip of the electro boulders up and is too big to pass through the engine block hole what you have to do is get it pushed into the cylinder take the injector out use a magma and get the tip out that way there is a special tool for it I have done a video on it Hubitools have the kit tell them I've sent you they will look after you
@@bodgitandleggitgarage many thanks! :)
@@woobeitwebdesign2303 any time mate
@@bodgitandleggitgarage i just forgt to mention that in my case i have the thing a little bit f@#$%. i have the central electrode and the tip inside, the rest of the spark plug got out but with this 'wire' i think im not sure i can adopt your tip top of pushing it inside without first removing this electrode, and because its tip is so short, its even more complicated to user pliers or something else. i will look into your hubitols video and please feel free to share some leads :)
its always like a little lottery win when one comes out in one piece and when they all come out you feel like the main man.
lol yes boom
Cos He IS THE MAN!
Changed heaters on an old 1998 seat ibiza with the old 1.9 non turbo diesel. Can remember one been behind the fuel pump which was a tad fiddly had one think was cross threaded in the head from a previous time ( not me) so changed the other three and left it at that
💪👍
Worth adding, put some coppa slip on the threads of the new ones. Will make it easy to get out next time if needed to. Also whenever we do track rod ends put coppa slip on the steering arm and track rod. Saves all the hassle of it being siezed next time it needs to be adjusted/come off.
Hi mate are you referring to copper grease because personally I don't use copper grease on anything with a thread because of the bit that's in it and it acts like sandpaper or are you referring to a different type of Grease
@@bodgitandleggitgarage yea copper grease, pad grease. there's no movement when the glow plugs are tightened up so no wear between the surfaces, it's very soft copper dust in the grease. They are guaranteed not to sieze in. Just done a second set of glow plugs after 80k on a Ford that had this stuff on, they practically fell out. Steel of the plugs and alloy heads are prone to reacting and sizing the plugs in, coppa slip prevents this. Try it.
boom sorted good to no mate
boom sorted good to no mate
Of course it would be nice the person before you or even the manufacturer did this. Would make it so much easier for the rest of us
cheers mate doing this today 1.8 tddi edura de focus engine .not looking forward to it this video is helpful
Thanks a lot mate you'll be fine don't worry about it
yes, I am grasping that atm. I also dont know if heat helps penetrating oil?
It's like everything made it has its uses for certain applications it most probably would have stopped the squeaking noise but it would not have penetrated or the hard material that was caught in the threads in this case
Thanx for ur help !! Took the glow plugs out of my 2003, transit today. Used ur technique which worked a treat.
1 although appeared to un screw, well it did unscrew but then would not pull out ?
So improvised and wrapped wire around the head and held with pliers. Then pulled on that whilst wiggling the nut and it then came free.
Caked in black soot etc.
Everything cleaned up, including inlet manifold and egr. Then all back together !!
Good afternoons work ???
Why don't you use penatrating oil spray on them and give wait before spinning them loose?
Done mine a few weeks ago on the same engine, 3 of them popped out easy but the last one wasn’t budging, starts a lot better now, I used new Bosch ones and the bit to put the socket on was a lot longer so it doesn’t slip off as easy.
Sorted!!!
You mention not needing "specialist tools" - were you thinking of using a battery impact driver which is something I have seen suggested a few times ?
special air tools i did video on them
@bodgit and leggit garage wondered if you could help me, my glow plug snapped and is stuck in the cylinder head. What are my options?
hi mate you only have two options one you buy you the special tool to remove it it and replace it it Hubitools do a special kit you can contact them tell them I sent you and they will look after you
or the other options which is a lot more expensive strip the head remove everything and take it to a machine shop
or just take it to somebody who has the right tools
Do you think glow plugs are responsible for my dpf not reaching 600C? It is usually around 500C when regenerating but the soot level is stuck at 45g and seems to go lower when temperature gets occasionally higher than 500C
Ever get the answe for this?
My god I've not been this tense since Delilah gave Samson a hair cut! 🤣😂
hahahahahahahahahaha
Always a nailbiter... having to remove stuck plugs. =(
Alright mate,Do you ever use coil threads?
Hi mate are you referring to if the if the threads are damaged if so depends how bad damage they are you sometimes can we tap them or sometimes you have to helicoils them
Perfect timing I am doing a set on a 03 sprinter tomorrow morning
Oh noooooo LOL have fun mate have fun lol
Don’t do that to me no you can’t haha any advice lol
@@colinhoward2780 yes mate I've got some fantastic advice don't do it haha
Just be careful with it mate I've known them to be very troublesome just take your time
Just watched a few RUclips videos and lot of people putting copper bread when putting it back in good idea ? Would you use wd40 to penetrate it ?
Did #4 break? Father in law just brought a new wagon with an already broken glow plug in it. I've got as far as drilling it an trying an easy out but she ain't budging. Normally I would just drill it all the way out if it wasn't for the electrode on the end.
Try your glowplug impact gun on NO 4 ?
Hi mate didn't need to
When I did them on my car I snapped one of the tips off which I never got out and managed to get the other 3 out. Trouble I had was I got them to the end of the thread but they were not coming out no matter what I tried, so I ended up spraying wd40 down the holes and tightened them back up ‘cause it started snowing, went back to try again a few days later, I cracked them off and they came out by hand, came out so easily I actually thought I’d snapped the first one
I would still advise using WD40, or a mix of paraffin and lube oil. Give a good soaking when the heater plug starts to move and leave for an hour or so. Stripped threads or broken plugs will NOT bring a grin to your face.
Hi mate unfortunately in this case like I explained in the video it would not have done any good all it would have done it stop this weekend there was too much carbon build-up inside the fridge no amount of WD40 or any other penetration oil would have got through this there is plenty of videos on RUclips proving this even with serious heat it still cannot get through
@@bodgitandleggitgarage is this before you had your glow plug tool with low torque mate
Did number 4 break?
No
I do this with tight bolts on everything. Works most of the time.
A good case for plus gas i think
Absolutely would help as plus gas is a dedicated penetrating oil and would find its way right down the root/crest clearance path inside the thread. Incidentally WD40 is not a penetrating oil as it is designed for removing water (W D = Water Displacement ) not creeping into assembled parts and freeing them off
Just wd'd mine up for a week. only needed to do 1 and it came out like a charm. Did it with a red hot engine,took 5 minutes. In fact it was so easy i thought I'd snapped it. 😂
lol nice job mate
Nice one bud. What was the Simpson’s to make you remove the glow plugs please.
I was just doing it service and I tester heater plugs just as a matter of course and 3 of them were bad we haven't had the weather or should I say we haven't had cold enough weather to affect it starting but we are getting into the winter so just as well changing them now
May I pick your brains please bud? I’ve have a mk 6 transit tourneo, a few months now. It has 18 inch ally wheels. Just passed mot np. The thing is at around 40-45 mph there’s a wobble worse on acceleration. As mot was ok bearings etc must be ok. New tyres fitted so balancing should be ok? Do you think it’s possible the wheels are u.s o front wheel drive. Thanks mate for your thoughts in advance.
@@paulelliott2861 hi mate if the problem only happens when you put the big wheels on it can really only be a problem with the wheels either they're not fitted correctly and what I mean by that is some wheels have an inner ring that sits on the hub to centre it properly make sure you have that ring if not one of the wheels could be badly warped make sure there's no welding or any marks on them this could also throw it out
bodgit and leggit garage thanks buddy there bud came with these wheels . Once I got it home my wife said” them tyres don’t look right “ I took it to a tyre place and yes indeed they where incorrect. They where car tyres. Had them replaced. I did not see any rings on them but there offside front has a large number off balance weights on it. I have a set of standard wheels and tyres. So will change over. Thanks bud.
Glow plug on this video syl nr 2.. Reson it making this sound is it full of sott"cox" on the part that is inside sylinder, so its making this sound as you force the coxs of the tip + its not sealed so its leaking a bit. And a good indication that this sylinder do have a problem on injector + valve seals leaking so its burning a bit of oil .
Hi mate I hear what you are saying but that's not always the case did a compression test on this car all is good no problems not burning oil it also depends on how the car is driven on unfortunately this car is not driven properly short journeys never gets time to heat up properly
Would it help if the engine was hot?? and some releasing fluid sprayed on the plug and let it soak into the thread ?? Who designs these things !!!!!!!!!!!!!! obviously they don't work on car engines in the shop !!!!!!! Love the sound !!! glad it was'nt on my engine!!!! Great video by the way. Would you pu ta little copper ease on the new thread ???
Keith always remember in situations like this, the vast majority of automotive engineers are educated FAR beyond their intelligence.
I've been battling this for a couple of days now! Not sure how you eventually got it out, but mine seems to come out all the way just like that (noise and all!) but at the end of the thread seems to just spin in place so I can't remove it. This plug seems to be the only plug that has been previously replaced (the tip was different and service says a plug was replaced), but I've replaced the other 3 so would like to replace this one as well. Screws back in ok'ish though so maybe I should just leave it....??
Hi mate, what it sounds like is the end of the glow plug has bulged out? This is caused by Heat and the plug breaking down. Again, I'm not 100% sure because I'm not there, but that's what it sounds like if that is the case you are unfortunately in a bit of trouble as it cannot be removed. The only way to do it is to try and break the end off and take out the injector and remove the piece but you have to be very careful doing this. As you can call permanent damage to your engine if you don't have the tools. I personally would leave it or go to a garage that does.
bodgit and leggit garage thank you very much for getting back to me. I think I’ll leave it as is for now 👍
I’ve bought a new set but I’m losing me bottle watching these vids
If carbon makes the plug slow, it is worth running a tank with diesel cleaner to get rid of the soot on the plugs
The thread keeps spinning for me.. how do you overcome that? 🤔
Another GoodUn. Thanks. Just about to attempt on a Bongo.
You are generating heat for sure
ASMR at it's best
All the experts tell you to warm the engine and use some sort of penetrating fluid both before and during the removal. I have no idea why you did neither. Were you just being tight? I'd also consider getting a smaller torque wrench which can be set to the low values required for these glow plugs.
It’s about time someone come up with less fragile glow plugs or came up with a better idea.
Why no wd 40? That would help for sure
Not at all in this case like I explained in the video yes it would have stopped the noise but that's still would not have helped anything the threads have got all carbon up with heavy carbon deposits WD-40 will not break through this all it would have done was stop the noise the process is still the same
My son said that he tried renewing his glow plugs and they were very tight, did I have any suggestions? Which is his way of saying would I do it for him !
We swapped cars Friday night. I let the engine cool and then applied lots of WD40. I know real men go in dry etc but not with these you don't. Lube is your friend in this case. Like you I went back and forth, lots of lube used and all four came out much easier than what my son described.
I only used 2 specialist tools:-
1. A deep 10mm socket
2. 40 years experience on the railway
Hi mate like I said in the video wd 40 absolute waste of time I did not use it in this video and would not use For this application it is not lubricant There's not a lot you can really do trying heat the car up turn the engine on let it tick over for a long period of time get it nice and hot and take your time The problem is if they re going to break there is nothing you can do some cars they just break unfortunately they can be an absolute nightmare
@@bodgitandleggitgarage if they're going to break, then yes they're going to break. You're absolutely correct on that, known in the industry as "Ford Mondeo Syndrome". Have no idea why - LOL. Of course the thing with our industries is a person's experience and preferred method of working. We're not all correct, and we're not all wrong. We tend to find a way that works for us, and we're happy with it
I had a similar problem with my car recently a 57 plate vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp, did 3 on my own that were quite easy to take out but 1 glowplug was seized and squeaky like in this video. Took it to a mechanic at a home address and he was using all his strength moving it back and forwards, his arm was shaking he was using so much pressure on his arms and the glow plug was very squeaky as he was turning it. I told him to stop several times as I felt he would break it. He carried on and suddenly it came loose but would not come out but kept spinning.
Fearing the worst I took it to an engine repair shop and he managed to remove it in 15 minutes and only charged me 10 pound. Looked at the old plug and half the threads had sheared off it. Probably when the home mechanic was putting all his strength into getting it out. I think maybe he was trying to snap it on purpose to get a job off me to extract it, I no longer bother with this guy.
Its nice to see someone like you doing this job with caution treating it like your own car and doing the job carefully and properly, shows their are mechanics out there who do care for the cars and the customers who they belong to
I have the same engine on my Saab93.
Was you mechanic not wrenching back and fore, or backing out one way only, to cause your concern?
@@Carlostype yes he was going back and forth but using all his strength, he was even thinking of getting a hammer and hitting it once it got too tight for him to turn but I would not allow it.
I no longer use his services
I have a problem removing one, and I feel the click click feel of a turn but its not coming out its like something is turning on the glow plug but not the glow plugs thread I think part of its nut body is spinning ugh!!
Hi mate what can happen is they can break pass the threads because the tip can swell up in this case if this is the case you are going to need some specialist tools and can turn into an absolute nightmare
Wd40 ?
tell me how that would of help
Leon there is one special tool needed patience, unfortunately you can't buy it. Is there any reason not to use anti seize in this application?
Hi mate I've never known any to work properly especially in this type of environment where it gets very hot and cold thousands of times I do see your point just haven't really found one that works properly
maybe candel wax if you can get it in before it sets great lubricant
@@timmytrumpet9922 yes mate I have had some success with candle wax in the past on different issues
Timmy Trumpet antiseize like copper slip etc normally leads to over torquing things.
my heater plug came out after the end snapped off after putting redx one shot in now my friend is using it on customers cars when the same happens , it takes a good couple of days before the hell is let loose
Why not spray WD40 down there?
What honestly do you think it would have done
Great videos, mate. Unfortunately i'm in the latter group whose plugs are still stuck (rounded heads) in a Renault master 2.5L after trying with a bolt extractor to no avail. Probably asking a bit much for a follow up video on that but it couldn't come a day too soon!
as soon as I get a car in where the heater plugs are broken or snapped I will be film it mate
Did you make one yet?
Great vid Leon 👍
thanks mate
Done 5 of 6 on my Audi number 2 has loosened (or snapped)it just keeps turning and i can pull it up about 5 mm but it won't come out the rest came out quite easily.Should have left it.
I get the engine red hot then soak them with wd 40. Then settle down for a few hours of fun and giggles
That's right, hot engine, I use a tin of pipe freeze from plumbing shop on the glow plug, well not a tin but enough just to cool it a couple of thou. If you get one that doesn't shift.
To prevent the glow plug snapping in the first place, I think it is best to use an Impact Wrench and in my opinion only use that, no other tool. The is because the reason, I think, it is more likely that an old glow plug may snap is undue side load. I'll try to explain this; So as well as the rotational torque, if you are not careful you can apply a side bending force that will cause the head of the glow plug to bend side ways a little when you apply force. This is made worst if you use longer extension bar on your wrench as this acts as a lever applying more bending force if you are not careful. I suspect it is this force that cause the glow plug head to snap. If the force can be kept purely rotational (i.e. Impact wrench) then I think the old plug will come out without snapping. What do people think agree/disagree?
Sounds like my knees in the morning lol😂
Have a me-262. Will paint in kommando nowotnys colors. Sounds good to you mate?
I have always liked that livery by the way you spell colours wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 and yes I know what you're going to say but we invented the language so we have the right to know how to spell it🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
bodgit and leggit garage what do you expect from a yank mate? LMAO...
At least we drive on the proper side of the road...BOOM😎😎😎
@@theadventuresofjavier8698 I think we both know you drive on the wrong side of the road after all you call a gas that you put in your car's but petrol is a liquid how can gas be a liquid hahaha I think that proves my point that we drive on the right side of the road🤔🤔🤔
bodgit and leggit garage try eating Mexican food....gas will be a liquid...😢😢😢😢😂😂😂😣😣
Leon you gave me two f..king heart attacks, I thought it snapped twice😄
But great job and thanks.
Any reason why you didn’t use wd40?
I’m doing my freelander 1 td4 soon, anything I need to look out for?
Hi mate to be honest WD40 just doesn't really get him I haven't seen any zuid to work in this circumstances it's clogged up so much it just will not penetrate there's lots of videos out there proving this fact nothing really to look out for just take your time with it and you should be fine
Use some atf oil and aceton mix
All that would have done will stop the squeaking noise it wouldn't have penetrated the carbon build up up in the heater plugs yes it would have stopped the noise any oil would have stopped the noise but that wasn't the point of the video just because the noise stopped doesn't mean that they won't break
Great job Leon,but how did #4 go lad? The people want to know!
Hahahhaha
A doesn't answer your question to make it even worse hahaha