I’m particularly thankful you included your mistakes. Sometimes these can be even more valuable than the initial tips. What shade of lipstick do you prefer. 😑
I have 4 of the same brand latches. Was just about to go back online to order something else, but I found your vid. I had no idea you can turn the latch like that. You saved me 20 quid.
This video is bloody brilliant, I just nearly ordered another 7 because they open the wrong way! They dont now! who knew you pull the latch out and swivel it round to reverse it! Thanks allot charlie, top vid
Great tip with the lipstick! Another little tip I got from another RUclips channel is that there’s a little metal tongue within the keep that can be pulled out slightly to allow the latch to fit securely within the keep and stop the door rattling!
I didn't know that about the tab and when to check - every rattly door doesn't have one (its the full backed box type). Going to change them all now, damn hinges - fixing shoddy work is much harder than from scratch.
I really tell you Charlie that as a 60 year old male I would take up an apprenticeship with you. Your videos are fantastic and very informative to watch, please keep them coming, don't stop!
Thanks for the supplier links Charlie - very handy. Nice to see you fessing up to making mistakes.😀 It’s how you recover from them that’s important. The only point I would make on method is reference where you were putting the handle plates on and putting in the supplied slotted brass screws. What I normally do after marking with a bradawl is to remove the handle then pilot drill and screw in a same size steel screw preferably with a pozie head - this helps because often times the handle also puts your screwdriver at an angle and slotted head screws are easy to cam out. Preparing the thread also makes it less likely brass screw will shear - although that is likely more of a risk in the harder woods. Old habits die hard. Keep up the good work.👍
Norman Boyes Great advice Norman. Thanks for sharing - I'll definitely do that next time if I can find a posi drive with a similar thread pattern to the rubbish brass screws the knobs came with🙂
Great video Charlie! I've purchased the same items as you've used for a new door, went for an 82mm backset to avoid the knuckle problem! Works a treat 👍🏼
Great video, Charlie. Thank you. Videos like this give me the confidence to stretch my skills a little and have a go at things I'd not considered possible before.
Thanks buddy. Yes there was a time I'd edit out the mistakes but as you say every job is littered with them so it's much better to show everything how it is. 👍
We discussed on another video screws on door handles. I stated what was the best way to cut or replace with smaller as they infringed on the lock body. You did say to turn the handle to line outside of the body avoid conflict. I can understand that on these tubular locks but it's a different story when using mortice and handle combined locks. In the end I ordered smaller screws via Ebay and got it sorted. I've also bought lock/handle sets from the US and installed them on a couple of bathroom doors. I much prefer their fitment, it seems far more accurate and less weakening of the door itself. Another issue - combining sprung handles with heavily sprung latches can be a pain to operate with door knobs. They're just far too tight. Okay with handles though.
Charlie - great videos thankyou. I've recently been renovating some wooden conservatory frames and using a fair bit of 2 part filler. 2 part car filler is pretty much the same stuff and works out a lot cheaper.
5 down - that's impressive. 👍🏻 The annoying thing is that when you finish the last one, you'll have the process working like clockwork, but it's always the way!
Great video! I've started using a small Makita trim router, and free-handing all my hinges, keeps and latches. You can lay your door furniture down onto your router base, and then set your 10mm cutter depth to the exact thickness of the furniture (Or slightly less, to finish up by chisel). I use a utility knife to mark an accurate line around my ironmongery. I miss using the old traditional chisel technique, but technology is really starting to come along.
Thanks for your reply Charlie I'd just like to say that we should certainly follow your lead & always by good quality ironmongery I must confess my purchase was a bit on the cheap side, lesson learned!
Thanks mate. I have a video on that in the pipeline but wasn't sure how much you could all endure of me messing around with these cheap nasty hollow core doors :) That said, someone else has asked me that tonight so I might bump it up the list to show you how I got on!!
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
At 14.45 you mentioned having to move latch and so on because the door needed shooting in... if a door ever needs adjusting take it off hinge side and just reset hinges 👌🏼
Charlie, the info of the heavy duty latch says it can't be used with sprung door furniture, suggesting that perhaps it's only suitable for non-sprung handles like the beautiful pair you purchased.
Hi Charlie, great video. I have bee looking for ages to replace some Weiser tubular latches on my doors. As in your video, they are set well back as they too have round handles. Will certainly check out the website .
lipstick tip. good one. thought about it before but always managed with combination square and fiddly measuring. A perfectionist might notice the slight mangled slot on the screws. (wink) (21:26)
I won't mention when I try using my impact driver on slotted head and see the slotted bit slip out the screw head and gouge it's way across the painted door...oops. Will be popping a nice bit of lipstick in the tool bag! Now shall we talk about the chiselling precision on the latch keep plate....?
Hi Charlie Thanks for this; from being a DIY virgin I've now changed 3 sets of door handles. It's depressing when you take failed handles off to see the mess that previous "carpenters" made just to rush the job. One small problem is that, while all the handles work, I find that I have to manually close the handle to return the latch one the doorknobs have been fixed in place whereas prior to fixing, everything moves freely; any ideas? Kind regards Paul
Hi Charlie, great video, has given me some idea on how to update the doors on my place, however am looking for some advice if you could help? The door latches area handle and lock, so the hole when taking the mech out is much bigger than a standard tubular latch, what would you suggest to be the best solution to fill the hole?
Hi Charlie. I've got this sort of version of door knobs in my old house on the original interior doors. They take 3 screws but the door behind these points have been heavily screwed into over the years and the screws keep coming loose. I've tried wood filling the holes then filling over the whole surface and sanding back. They still come loose over time. Any other suggestions please as I really want to keep the old doors. Many thanks. Mark.
Hi there. I haven't done one yet, but always found this one quite good ruclips.net/video/3QZtNnI7bA0/видео.html I tend to do mine by eye (often rather badly) but to do the job consistently each time you should get yourself a decent diamond stone and honing guide.
I know - it's horrible isn't it! One day I'd like to put proper solid wood victorian style doors back in, but there's too much other stuff to do right now so it's not a priority.
Thank you so much for this Charlie, learnt a lot from watching your videos over the past year. One thing I was wondering is wouldn't a multitool be able to do the same job as the chisel and a lot quicker as well?
Yes, Eduard, that's a fair point. I'd say yes for hinges but not for this rebate as you would't be able to get the multi tool into a parallel position to remove what it needed to. However I bought one of these recently amzn.to/2KdKXjO and it's revolutionised my hinge rebating. I'll be doing a video on it shortly.
You're right. I think the point is you don't need a heavy duty latch like this if your door furniture is sprung. It would probably make it unpleasantly strong to operate.
@@CharlieDIYte I ordered one and then realized my handle is sprung, can I just remove the spring from handle to make it unsprung? Silly question perhaps, I really don't want to buy another handle on top as its in perfect working order.
The pilot hole for the screws? Just a 2mm or similar. You basically want a bit that has a diameter the same or smaller than the central core of the screw without the thread.
Thanks for another great video Charlie, very useful to me, and I'm sure to many others as well. 1. Do you by any chance have (or plan) another video showing installation of mortise locks in internal doors (e.g. bathrooms)? 2. Did that tubular latch set come with a plastic box keep? (Although I gather a lot of traditional craftsmen prefer not to use them and bin them - but maybe you put it in too quickly for my eye to notice. :-) ). 3. Small point (?) but why do you think suppliers of "door furniture" insist on supplying slot-head screws? Are they supposed to be more aesthetically pleasing or something? I've been changing a few door handles lately (lever, not round) and all came with slot-headed screws for the backplate. I reused the old pan-headed PZ screws that had been in the old backplates, and they seemed to match well enough. 4. Oh yes, last question: Why didn't you want to drill where you had filled? Isn't wood-filler supposed to be drillable? Thanks in advance?
Hi Mike, you're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 🙏 On the mortice lock video will this do ruclips.net/video/Usdptprrgrc/видео.html ? No it didn't come with a plastic box keep. I agree, slot-headed screws are a pain as they're so easy to cam out when screwing them in. It's a purely aesthetic thing, I guess going back to the time when these were the only screws available. Even the 2 part wood filler is very brittle when it's set so whilst you can drill it, the screw thread would crack any filler it was trying to bore into.
great video Charlie I recently had to do that very same job myself a few weeks ago but the only thing different was that I had to enlarge the whole bore of the latch hole & that was a right pain,having to hand chisel the timber so as to fit the new size latch. Should I have used an auger drill bit?
I think that when the hole's already been made - and you would have seen that mine had been chiselled out back in the 70's in a pretty crude fashion, using a hand chisel like you did is often the best option. An auger drill bit isn't a bad option though as it's not going to ricochet around like a flat wood bit. Yep, probably worth us all having a 25mm bit in our bags for situations like this.
If I was you I would cut a piece of pine that as closely matches the hole left by the mortice as possible, and then tap it into the gap, with some PVA glue around it. When it's set you can always full the front with 2 part wood filler if necessary and then drill the hole for the tubular latch as normal.
Ironmongerydirect provided me these heavy duty latches as a replacement for the original Altro ones i had which failed and are now no longer sold…however now I need to widen the latch hole by 1mm to accommodate the slightly wider profile of the latch…any good tips on doing this? (Previously used 25mm forstner bit, of course instructions for this latch require a 1in hole :( ) I did try with a rasp but it’s slow going, don’t want to ruin the oak veneer by splitting the side…
That's fiddly Heather. You have a couple of options. The first is to gradually wooden the hole with a hammer and chisel. It's slow going but if you're patient you'll get it done. The other thing you could try which is a bit more heath robinson is to put a large HSS bit on your drill and hold it against the inside of the hole and gentle widen it that way. Neither solution is perfect but the chisel will probably give you the best results. It wants to be quite a narrow chisel 10mm or less or perhaps one of these amzn.to/3jgs6pD (although I've not used this gouger myself for what you're doing).
@@CharlieDIYte That door hardware is very floral, Pat was a character on Eastenders that had nearly every surface in her house with a pink floral pattern, she was famous for it. For the record I haven't watched a soap for at least 15 years, I saw the error of my ways lol
@@raydebbiemcdonald3208 I wish I could buy a metric tape in the US. It would make calculations so much easier, and accurate. Btw. I also started to include Feng Shui measurements.
Why are you fitting new knobs and latch onto a door that is covered in Marks and scratches. Surely you should be making the door good , painting etc and then renew the knobs and latch?
On all the doors I've refurbished since this one I have filled all holes scratches and dents that I can. Bottom line though, these doors are dreadful quality 1970s hollow core moulded. If like to rip out and replace if I'm honest, but the mere knobs and tubular latches elevate the door to a higher impression of quality than previously. The old latches aren't worth renovating.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m particularly thankful you included your mistakes. Sometimes these can be even more valuable than the initial tips.
What shade of lipstick do you prefer. 😑
I have 4 of the same brand latches. Was just about to go back online to order something else, but I found your vid. I had no idea you can turn the latch like that. You saved me 20 quid.
Thanks for the tip about using a piece of Perspex. An added thought is to give it a smear of Vaseline to ensure it does not stick.
This video is bloody brilliant, I just nearly ordered another 7 because they open the wrong way! They dont now! who knew you pull the latch out and swivel it round to reverse it! Thanks allot charlie, top vid
Great tip with the lipstick! Another little tip I got from another RUclips channel is that there’s a little metal tongue within the keep that can be pulled out slightly to allow the latch to fit securely within the keep and stop the door rattling!
Yes, that's right, John on this design at least. I've fitted this on two doors now and I really like the system.
I didn't know that about the tab and when to check - every rattly door doesn't have one (its the full backed box type). Going to change them all now, damn hinges - fixing shoddy work is much harder than from scratch.
I really tell you Charlie that as a 60 year old male I would take up an apprenticeship with you. Your videos are fantastic and very informative to watch, please keep them coming, don't stop!
Can't thank you enough for that Rich. I certainly will, don't you worry! Thanks so much for watching my vids and for commenting. 👊
I learn so much from your videos, not least inspiration and confidence to do things myself. I invariably find this takes longer but gets done better.
Aw, thanks Steve! I really appreciate that! It takes longer but you do a better job and feel epic as a result!
Thanks for the supplier links Charlie - very handy. Nice to see you fessing up to making mistakes.😀 It’s how you recover from them that’s important.
The only point I would make on method is reference where you were putting the handle plates on and putting in the supplied slotted brass screws. What I normally do after marking with a bradawl is to remove the handle then pilot drill and screw in a same size steel screw preferably with a pozie head - this helps because often times the handle also puts your screwdriver at an angle and slotted head screws are easy to cam out. Preparing the thread also makes it less likely brass screw will shear - although that is likely more of a risk in the harder woods. Old habits die hard. Keep up the good work.👍
Norman Boyes Great advice Norman. Thanks for sharing - I'll definitely do that next time if I can find a posi drive with a similar thread pattern to the rubbish brass screws the knobs came with🙂
Great video Charlie! I've purchased the same items as you've used for a new door, went for an 82mm backset to avoid the knuckle problem! Works a treat 👍🏼
Really glad to hear that. It's a quality product, isn't it 👍🏻
Great video, Charlie. Thank you. Videos like this give me the confidence to stretch my skills a little and have a go at things I'd not considered possible before.
Another detailed, comprehensive and fantastic vid from the main Man himself!
Thanks Garviel 👊
The choice of door furniture is so important as you have shown here. It's a great informative video. Thank you
Superb, thanks for posting. The best part is the mistake you made, makes it much more human. I’m sure many like myself can relate
Thanks buddy. Yes there was a time I'd edit out the mistakes but as you say every job is littered with them so it's much better to show everything how it is. 👍
We discussed on another video screws on door handles. I stated what was the best way to cut or replace with smaller as they infringed on the lock body. You did say to turn the handle to line outside of the body avoid conflict. I can understand that on these tubular locks but it's a different story when using mortice and handle combined locks. In the end I ordered smaller screws via Ebay and got it sorted.
I've also bought lock/handle sets from the US and installed them on a couple of bathroom doors. I much prefer their fitment, it seems far more accurate and less weakening of the door itself.
Another issue - combining sprung handles with heavily sprung latches can be a pain to operate with door knobs. They're just far too tight. Okay with handles though.
Charlie - great videos thankyou. I've recently been renovating some wooden conservatory frames and using a fair bit of 2 part filler. 2 part car filler is pretty much the same stuff and works out a lot cheaper.
Thanks David. Yes a lot of people have suggested that stuff. Makes sense 👍
Great video and nice to see even the professionals make mistakes 😊
Thanks. I wouldn't call myself a professional though 😉👊
Wish I had found this earlier. Just replacing the rest of our doors. 5 down and 2 to go. I could have used some of your tips. 😄
5 down - that's impressive. 👍🏻 The annoying thing is that when you finish the last one, you'll have the process working like clockwork, but it's always the way!
Great video! I've started using a small Makita trim router, and free-handing all my hinges, keeps and latches. You can lay your door furniture down onto your router base, and then set your 10mm cutter depth to the exact thickness of the furniture (Or slightly less, to finish up by chisel). I use a utility knife to mark an accurate line around my ironmongery. I miss using the old traditional chisel technique, but technology is really starting to come along.
Great work. Like you I've used chisels in the past but this little tool is game changing.
Thank you . All tips as gold
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊🏻
Thank you Charlie. Yet another, easy to understand video. Great tips too! 👍
Thanks, Mark 👍
Thanks video was really informed 😁😁😁
Thanks Shane 👍🏻
Thanks for your reply Charlie I'd just like to say that we should certainly follow your lead & always by good quality ironmongery I must confess my purchase was a bit on the cheap side, lesson learned!
Nice neat job! Look forward to seeing the door all finished up.
Thanks mate. I have a video on that in the pipeline but wasn't sure how much you could all endure of me messing around with these cheap nasty hollow core doors :) That said, someone else has asked me that tonight so I might bump it up the list to show you how I got on!!
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Just what I needed cheers dude
You're welcome, mate!
Nice lipstick tip, shall be adding this to my toolbox.
Excellent learned hell of a lot thanks
You're very welcome, Mick, massive thanks for the comment 👍
We've been having a problem with our latch this week, I might just change to these.
nice clean job charlie loved the video.
Great video. Learned a lot. Thank you.
At 14.45 you mentioned having to move latch and so on because the door needed shooting in... if a door ever needs adjusting take it off hinge side and just reset hinges 👌🏼
I agree Phil that's a far easier option👍🏻
How have you not got more views?
Charlie, the info of the heavy duty latch says it can't be used with sprung door furniture, suggesting that perhaps it's only suitable for non-sprung handles like the beautiful pair you purchased.
I think that might be right, the point being with two springs operating against you, it might be uncomfortably hard to turn the knob or handle.
@@CharlieDIYte now I'm just imagining someone using all their strength to turn an innocent looking door knob...
Hi Charlie, great video. I have bee looking for ages to replace some Weiser tubular latches on my doors. As in your video, they are set well back as they too have round handles. Will certainly check out the website .
Paul Wheatcroft Thanks for the comment Paul. Yep, I'd really recommend them and I've bought a lot from Ironmongery Direct - consistently good service.
Wonderful
Thanks Anthony 👍🏻
lipstick tip. good one. thought about it before but always managed with combination square and fiddly measuring. A perfectionist might notice the slight mangled slot on the screws. (wink) (21:26)
Yes, I was wondering who the first would be to pick up on that!
I won't mention when I try using my impact driver on slotted head and see the slotted bit slip out the screw head and gouge it's way across the painted door...oops. Will be popping a nice bit of lipstick in the tool bag! Now shall we talk about the chiselling precision on the latch keep plate....?
We've all done that! No, let's not talk about that. I wasn't too proud about taking off the corners when I didn't need to.
Charlie DIYte oh I just watched it back and it's hardly noticeable. A smudge of filler and all would be fine. Keep the videos coming.
Excellent video thanks
brilliant,,,will use these now,,,thanks,,
Hi Charlie
Thanks for this; from being a DIY virgin I've now changed 3 sets of door handles. It's depressing when you take failed handles off to see the mess that previous "carpenters" made just to rush the job. One small problem is that, while all the handles work, I find that I have to manually close the handle to return the latch one the doorknobs have been fixed in place whereas prior to fixing, everything moves freely; any ideas?
Kind regards
Paul
Hi Charlie, great video, has given me some idea on how to update the doors on my place, however am looking for some advice if you could help?
The door latches area handle and lock, so the hole when taking the mech out is much bigger than a standard tubular latch, what would you suggest to be the best solution to fill the hole?
Hi Charlie. I've got this sort of version of door knobs in my old house on the original interior doors. They take 3 screws but the door behind these points have been heavily screwed into over the years and the screws keep coming loose. I've tried wood filling the holes then filling over the whole surface and sanding back. They still come loose over time. Any other suggestions please as I really want to keep the old doors. Many thanks. Mark.
Have you got a video on how you get a sharp chisel.
Hi there. I haven't done one yet, but always found this one quite good ruclips.net/video/3QZtNnI7bA0/видео.html I tend to do mine by eye (often rather badly) but to do the job consistently each time you should get yourself a decent diamond stone and honing guide.
Hi Charlie, are you still going to do the video for hinge repairs?
Hi Nicky, good to hear from you! Yes, I haven't forgotten about that - I'll hopefully be posting it in the next couple of weeks.
Here you go, Nicky - and there's a little shout out to you at the end :) ruclips.net/video/7J9mEOk11-I/видео.html
Charlie great vid. Whats the music in the video you are using?
The latch and the door knobs will be worth more than that door !
I know - it's horrible isn't it! One day I'd like to put proper solid wood victorian style doors back in, but there's too much other stuff to do right now so it's not a priority.
Using lipstick is a great tip. Thank you!
It's a bit unconventional, admittedly 😏
Thank you so much for this Charlie, learnt a lot from watching your videos over the past year. One thing I was wondering is wouldn't a multitool be able to do the same job as the chisel and a lot quicker as well?
Yes, Eduard, that's a fair point. I'd say yes for hinges but not for this rebate as you would't be able to get the multi tool into a parallel position to remove what it needed to. However I bought one of these recently amzn.to/2KdKXjO and it's revolutionised my hinge rebating. I'll be doing a video on it shortly.
You mentioned that the latch used works for sprung and unsprung furniture but the website description states not suitable for sprung furniture.
You're right. I think the point is you don't need a heavy duty latch like this if your door furniture is sprung. It would probably make it unpleasantly strong to operate.
@@CharlieDIYte I ordered one and then realized my handle is sprung, can I just remove the spring from handle to make it unsprung? Silly question perhaps, I really don't want to buy another handle on top as its in perfect working order.
What size drill bit do you use to make pilot hole?
The pilot hole for the screws? Just a 2mm or similar. You basically want a bit that has a diameter the same or smaller than the central core of the screw without the thread.
Thanks for another great video Charlie, very useful to me, and I'm sure to many others as well.
1. Do you by any chance have (or plan) another video showing installation of mortise locks in internal doors (e.g. bathrooms)?
2. Did that tubular latch set come with a plastic box keep? (Although I gather a lot of traditional craftsmen prefer not to use them and bin them - but maybe you put it in too quickly for my eye to notice. :-) ).
3. Small point (?) but why do you think suppliers of "door furniture" insist on supplying slot-head screws? Are they supposed to be more aesthetically pleasing or something? I've been changing a few door handles lately (lever, not round) and all came with slot-headed screws for the backplate. I reused the old pan-headed PZ screws that had been in the old backplates, and they seemed to match well enough.
4. Oh yes, last question: Why didn't you want to drill where you had filled? Isn't wood-filler supposed to be drillable? Thanks in advance?
Hi Mike, you're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 🙏 On the mortice lock video will this do ruclips.net/video/Usdptprrgrc/видео.html ? No it didn't come with a plastic box keep. I agree, slot-headed screws are a pain as they're so easy to cam out when screwing them in. It's a purely aesthetic thing, I guess going back to the time when these were the only screws available. Even the 2 part wood filler is very brittle when it's set so whilst you can drill it, the screw thread would crack any filler it was trying to bore into.
nice to know, cheers.
Charlie how long is the working time for this two part filler? Whoops just seen it on screen silly me.
great video Charlie I recently had to do that very same job myself a few weeks ago but the only thing different was that I had to enlarge the whole bore of the latch hole & that was a right pain,having to hand chisel the timber so as to fit the new size latch. Should I have used an auger drill bit?
I think that when the hole's already been made - and you would have seen that mine had been chiselled out back in the 70's in a pretty crude fashion, using a hand chisel like you did is often the best option. An auger drill bit isn't a bad option though as it's not going to ricochet around like a flat wood bit. Yep, probably worth us all having a 25mm bit in our bags for situations like this.
Brilliant
Thanks 👊
I have a mortise lock and want to convert into one cylinder latch, is there a way to fill in the vacancy inside the door ? Would a filler work ?
If I was you I would cut a piece of pine that as closely matches the hole left by the mortice as possible, and then tap it into the gap, with some PVA glue around it. When it's set you can always full the front with 2 part wood filler if necessary and then drill the hole for the tubular latch as normal.
Ironmongerydirect provided me these heavy duty latches as a replacement for the original Altro ones i had which failed and are now no longer sold…however now I need to widen the latch hole by 1mm to accommodate the slightly wider profile of the latch…any good tips on doing this? (Previously used 25mm forstner bit, of course instructions for this latch require a 1in hole :( ) I did try with a rasp but it’s slow going, don’t want to ruin the oak veneer by splitting the side…
That's fiddly Heather. You have a couple of options. The first is to gradually wooden the hole with a hammer and chisel. It's slow going but if you're patient you'll get it done. The other thing you could try which is a bit more heath robinson is to put a large HSS bit on your drill and hold it against the inside of the hole and gentle widen it that way. Neither solution is perfect but the chisel will probably give you the best results. It wants to be quite a narrow chisel 10mm or less or perhaps one of these amzn.to/3jgs6pD (although I've not used this gouger myself for what you're doing).
Cracking vid
Thanks 👍
I"m always surprised to hear about "continental" filler knives. Here, on the continent, we call those "Japanese" filler knives...
Did Pat Butcher used to live there?
That made me chuckle, but can you explain :)
@@CharlieDIYte That door hardware is very floral, Pat was a character on Eastenders that had nearly every surface in her house with a pink floral pattern, she was famous for it. For the record I haven't watched a soap for at least 15 years, I saw the error of my ways lol
Once painted,you will have to adjust the keep again.!
No, it was fine. 😉
Wow, you still have imperial measurements on your measuring tape.
Most do in the UK. I often use both inches and cm when measuring.
@@raydebbiemcdonald3208 I wish I could buy a metric tape in the US. It would make calculations so much easier, and accurate.
Btw. I also started to include Feng Shui measurements.
They don't make pz screws that are brass they are just brassed pot metal.
my door is booke
U awesome
Why are you fitting new knobs and latch onto a door that is covered in Marks and scratches. Surely you should be making the door good , painting etc and then renew the knobs and latch?
On all the doors I've refurbished since this one I have filled all holes scratches and dents that I can. Bottom line though, these doors are dreadful quality 1970s hollow core moulded. If like to rip out and replace if I'm honest, but the mere knobs and tubular latches elevate the door to a higher impression of quality than previously. The old latches aren't worth renovating.
first