Ordered my replacement part tonight. Thanks, Oscar, for the great video post. Much appreciated! NOTE: Caution - the part that they sent (the number Oscar provided) is supposed to work on my 2014 Explorer, but it does not. It's smaller than my original. The part number on my original cylinder is BB53-78402A74-AD. Pull your cylinder FIRST and check the part number before you order. I also had to disconnect the battery to reset the electronics. I also pulled the fuse which is the # 7 fuse in the fuse box ,(leave it out for few seconds then replace )(30A), then go on steering wheel under settings, rear lift and disable then re-enable works great
Ordered my replacement part tonight ($49 shipped), will be back in service in a couple weeks. Thanks, Oscar, for the great video post. Much appreciated! NOTE: Caution - the part that they sent (the number Oscar provided) is supposed to work on my 2013 Explorer, but it does not. It's smaller than my original. The part number on my original cylinder is BB53-78402A74-AD. Pull your cylinder FIRST and check the part number before you order.
Thank You! Thank You! Our Ford dealer gave us a quote of $850. to fix our lift gate I watched your video, yours was doing the same as mine. I got the part from e-bay, my son popped it on and my lift gate works perfect now. And YES I did go back down to our Green Valley, AZ.Ford dealership and gave them a piece of my mind, for trying to take advantage of senior citizens. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Linda Grant I'm so happy it worked for you! Wow, $850......that's much worse than what they wanted to charge me! They're ridiculous. Love the car though...😉
Thanks for this video! My liftgate was going up then making the sound then going back down. I was told that it was a bad actuator and it needed to be replaced. Well I watched your video, bought the strut online for $62.00, it arrived today and my wife and I had it installed in about ten minutes and it works! Thank you!
I had the same exact issue with my 2014 Escape, got the part on line, replaced in less than 5 minutes. Works great now. Thanks for the RUclips post. Saved me a bunch.
Thanks for the video, it took me 5 minutes to replace and 70 dollars. I have an Explorer Sport and the dealership wants almost $300 to diagnose the issue.
We have a 2012 Edge with the same problem. We ordered the strut. It was $50 including shipping. It took literally less than one minute to install. Thank you!
Used this on my 2011 Explorer today. Watched video last week, ordered part, and installed today (less than 2 minutes to install was true). Saved me a couple hundred bucks. Thanks for sharing.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO.. I HAVE A QUICK QUESTION, DID YOU ORDER WITH POWER LIFT GATE SUPPORT OR WITHOUT POWER LIFT GATE SUPPORT? THE AUTO PARK GUY ASKED ME DOES QUESTION I DO NOT KNOW WHICH ONE IS..THANKS
If he needs an answer, then ask yourself does your rear door go up automatically (power lift gate) or do you have to pull it up manually (non power lift gate).
Just stumbled across your video. Is it the same fix if the power tailgate goes up about 3/4 of the way, that stops , it beeps then it tries to close then goes back up 3/4 of the way beeps and then closes ? I turned off the power lift gate and manually lifted it all the way and when I lifted it it slowly comes down
When I turn off the power tailgate , I open all the way and it comes down a little but stays up so I’m assuming it’s the driver side right? If it was the right side then it would just come flying down ?
READ THIS IF YOU REPLACE ACTUATOR AND LIFTGATE STILL WON'T OPEN OR CLOSE I replaced both the left actuator as well as the right strut on my 2014 Ford explorer XLT and was completely perplexed why the liftgate still wouldn't open or close even after going into the vehicle settings and disability and waiting then re-enabling the liftgate. I could hold down the button on the liftgate and get it to chime (setting the liftgate height) but wouldn't open or close with any of buttons or key-fob. I checked the 30A fuse under the hood which was in the 7th position and even left it out for 30 seconds to reset, still no luck. Then I finally accessed the fusebox underneath the left side of the steering wheel the 25 position 10A fuse. To find this fuse box you have to take apart a panel below steering wheel with 2 bolts at the bottom and pull straight out so not to break clips. Then remove a black plastic piece to reveal the fusebox way back to the left. After taking it out the 10A fuse in the 25position I turned key noticed no image on my radio 4" display, Turned car back off and and putting the 10A fuse back in it worked. When turning the key back on the screen showed that the system was reinitializing hand I guess it had to sync with the new actuator. WARNING this fuse in the 25 position is the hardest fuse to possibly reach and you need special tool to hold the fuse but you almost have to remove and replace by feel. I'd say a 9/10 difficulty. No joke. Hope this helps someone like me who did everything correctly but was still not getting the liftgate to work.
If it doesn't go up, it could be one of 2 things. The auto open option has been disabled in the cars menu.....or the trunk actuator has gone bad. The actuator is what lifts the door.
@@OscarCalderon68 appreciate it so that would be a totally different part I assume.. I was hoping it was the same problem u bad because it seems like that would fix it 🤷🏾♂️
I have the same issue. The trunk when opening goes to the top and seems to be hitting hard. From this I believe it is initiating the switch to come back down. Sometimes someone is putting something in the trunk while it is going up and it starts to come down on them. Let me know if you find anything else out with this. I will try and diagnose the issue.
Just disconnect the battery and allow the entire system to reset, worked for our explorer without having to take apart anything; the part wasn’t bad it just simply was misreading information. your welcome 😊
There’s a manual recalibration if your doors out of wack, all you have to do is hold the rear trunk close button for a few seconds until it initiates. No need for disconnecting your battery and resetting everything. You’re* welcome. Also, dudes new shock clearly fixed this issue without recalibrating.. so….
Mine is doing the same exact thing!!! (Ford Edge)Like exactly m, even when I disable it (I personally don’t care to have it open automatically) I just have to listen for the chimes to see if I might need the same repair you have because I just got my truck, no warranty and I didn’t know it was broke
Hi Oscar,My explorer is doing the same thing How did you Know that it was the support strut that needed to be replaced? Just because it would not stay up?
The chimes when it reaches the top indicated that something heavy was preventing it from staying up, so I just assumed the door itself was the culprit. The bigger of the 2 struts was making the 'whirring' noise, indicating that it was working. So common sense tells me the other was used to just hold it up. My assumption was correct!!
The same thing is starting to happen on my 14 Escape.....goes up and then slow falls....though it is not as worn are yours. Still you might have saved me!
I have replaced both struts on my edge which has the power gate lift fine, but then when I try to close it, it drops 10 inches and goes back up. I have to click second time as it stops for it to shut. This is an issue throughout all ford models Escape, Edge and Explorer. Its a shame Ford hasn't got any way to fix this. It is a mess
Struts on heavy liftgates and hoods are a bad design IMO, tend to fail every few years. They should have used an old school spring mechanism to take up most of the weight then the strut just to assist and smooth and slow it, so it lasts longer.
I had my doubts.. after I heard you say the passenger side is “wasted”… I thought you were going to do something lame like try to put a motorized actuator on that side.. like, “that side is not being utilized.. ie. wasted”. I bet dealers everywhere are screwing over people left and right on this easy fix. $300 diagnosis, 2 hours road test, 2 hours labor @$220 and $150 for the new strut.
Ordered my replacement part tonight. Thanks, Oscar, for the great video post. Much appreciated! NOTE: Caution - the part that they sent (the number Oscar provided) is supposed to work on my 2014 Explorer, but it does not. It's smaller than my original. The part number on my original cylinder is BB53-78402A74-AD. Pull your cylinder FIRST and check the part number before you order. I also had to disconnect the battery to reset the electronics. I also pulled the fuse which is the # 7 fuse in the fuse box ,(leave it out for few seconds then replace )(30A), then go on steering wheel under settings, rear lift and disable then re-enable works great
Ordered my replacement part tonight ($49 shipped), will be back in service in a couple weeks. Thanks, Oscar, for the great video post. Much appreciated! NOTE: Caution - the part that they sent (the number Oscar provided) is supposed to work on my 2013 Explorer, but it does not. It's smaller than my original. The part number on my original cylinder is BB53-78402A74-AD. Pull your cylinder FIRST and check the part number before you order.
Thank You! Thank You! Our Ford dealer gave us a quote of $850. to fix our lift gate I watched your video, yours was doing the same as mine. I got the part from e-bay, my son popped it on and my lift gate works perfect now. And YES I did go back down to our Green Valley, AZ.Ford dealership and gave them a piece of my mind, for trying to take advantage of senior citizens. THANK YOU AGAIN!
Linda Grant I'm so happy it worked for you! Wow, $850......that's much worse than what they wanted to charge me! They're ridiculous. Love the car though...😉
Thanks for this video! My liftgate was going up then making the sound then going back down. I was told that it was a bad actuator and it needed to be replaced. Well I watched your video, bought the strut online for $62.00, it arrived today and my wife and I had it installed in about ten minutes and it works! Thank you!
So glad it helped so many.
Same issue on the 2014 Ford Flex, like the rest of the guys in the comments, you are the man!!!
I had the same exact issue with my 2014 Escape, got the part on line, replaced in less than 5 minutes. Works great now. Thanks for the RUclips post. Saved me a bunch.
I believe I'll do this first. the other side is not that bad yet. luckily there one video in left side. thanks again.
Thanks for the video, it took me 5 minutes to replace and 70 dollars. I have an Explorer Sport and the dealership wants almost $300 to diagnose the issue.
Glad it helped!
You are the Man , that's how you get it done you have saved so many people like myself so much money .Good looking out. Great vid.
I'm so happy it saved so many people time and money. You're most welcome!
Thank you! Mine started doing this today and your video saved me.
So glad it helped!
Thank you so much This video was extremely helpful didn't have the exact same problem but it directed me on the right way
Glad it helped. A helping hand goes a long way!
Thank you, man. I have a 2015 ford explorer in Japan but nobody has this car here and nobody knows the problem with this. 🙏🏽
my man japan has some amazing cars why you sticking with the American brands 😭
You just saved me $200 bucks. Thanks a lot for sharing
We have a 2012 Edge with the same problem. We ordered the strut. It was $50 including shipping. It took literally less than one minute to install.
Thank you!
I'm so glad it helped!
Thank you! Saved me a ton from the dealership!
You are most welcome, sir!
Thank you! Fixed my issue with my 2013 explorer for $70! 👍😊🙏
Where did you get the part for $70?
That is what I am looking for... thank you very much!
You're most welcome. Glad it helped!
Great video...thanks for posting - replaced mine in less than 5 minutes & works like new!
Used this on my 2011 Explorer today. Watched video last week, ordered part, and installed today (less than 2 minutes to install was true). Saved me a couple hundred bucks. Thanks for sharing.
Ben Hendren .....you're most welcome. So glad it helped!
Thanks for sharing your video.
You most welcome. Glad it helped.
your video just saved me hundreds at the mechanics....THANK YOU SO MUCH!
You're very welcome. I'm really glad it helped!!
Good gods man, that thing could hurt someone. Makes my C-max liftgate open and close like a slug hahaha😂
Thank you so much for the video
You're most welcome. So glad it helped!
2015 same issue. Ford wanted $400. Easy to DIY. Thanks for the post
So happy it saved you $$. You're most welcome!
I have same issue same year 2015. Do u have the link to where u bought it??
Worked perfectly on my 2015 Explorer. Thanks for the video!
Andy Eding You're very welcome. I'm truly glad it helped!!
When you replaced a lift gate. Its need also to reprogram?? Please i need your respond..
There is NO NEED to reprogram anything.
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO.. I HAVE A QUICK QUESTION, DID YOU
ORDER WITH POWER LIFT GATE SUPPORT OR WITHOUT POWER LIFT GATE SUPPORT? THE AUTO PARK GUY ASKED ME DOES QUESTION I DO NOT KNOW WHICH ONE IS..THANKS
Either or......they are both the same. Go for the one that's least expensive.
If he needs an answer, then ask yourself does your rear door go up automatically (power lift gate) or do you have to pull it up manually (non power lift gate).
THANK YOU! Great video.
Thanks.... Hope it helped!
REPLY
Good video! Thanks! Interestingly the part number for my 2015 explorer that I got from the dealer ends in C instead of B.
Just stumbled across your video. Is it the same fix if the power tailgate goes up about 3/4 of the way, that stops , it beeps then it tries to close then goes back up 3/4 of the way beeps and then closes ?
I turned off the power lift gate and manually lifted it all the way and when I lifted it it slowly comes down
When I turn off the power tailgate , I open all the way and it comes down a little but stays up so I’m assuming it’s the driver side right? If it was the right side then it would just come flying down ?
If it slowly comes down after lifting it manually, It is most likely the strut......so yes, replace.
Have u resumed the same clips. Or v need to buy a new set. Video didn’t give info.
Clips are already installed on the new part.
READ THIS IF YOU REPLACE ACTUATOR AND LIFTGATE STILL WON'T OPEN OR CLOSE
I replaced both the left actuator as well as the right strut on my 2014 Ford explorer XLT and was completely perplexed why the liftgate still wouldn't open or close even after going into the vehicle settings and disability and waiting then re-enabling the liftgate. I could hold down the button on the liftgate and get it to chime (setting the liftgate height) but wouldn't open or close with any of buttons or key-fob. I checked the 30A fuse under the hood which was in the 7th position and even left it out for 30 seconds to reset, still no luck. Then I finally accessed the fusebox underneath the left side of the steering wheel the 25 position 10A fuse. To find this fuse box you have to take apart a panel below steering wheel with 2 bolts at the bottom and pull straight out so not to break clips. Then remove a black plastic piece to reveal the fusebox way back to the left. After taking it out the 10A fuse in the 25position I turned key noticed no image on my radio 4" display, Turned car back off and and putting the 10A fuse back in it worked. When turning the key back on the screen showed that the system was reinitializing hand I guess it had to sync with the new actuator. WARNING this fuse in the 25 position is the hardest fuse to possibly reach and you need special tool to hold the fuse but you almost have to remove and replace by feel. I'd say a 9/10 difficulty. No joke.
Hope this helps someone like me who did everything correctly but was still not getting the liftgate to work.
Do you Still have the Explorer
Nope. The car in the video was a '12......upgraded to a 2018 Explorer Platinum.
Though bit dark and unstable video but information was useful . Thanks.
Thanks Oscar!! $32.99 on Amazon!
Wowsers....that's CHEAP! I'm so glad the video helped!
Mine doesn’t go up when u open it but after u push it all the way up it goes back down with the touch of the button.. Is this the same solution??
If it doesn't go up, it could be one of 2 things. The auto open option has been disabled in the cars menu.....or the trunk actuator has gone bad. The actuator is what lifts the door.
@@OscarCalderon68 appreciate it so that would be a totally different part I assume.. I was hoping it was the same problem u bad because it seems like that would fix it 🤷🏾♂️
I have the same issue. The trunk when opening goes to the top and seems to be hitting hard. From this I believe it is initiating the switch to come back down. Sometimes someone is putting something in the trunk while it is going up and it starts to come down on them. Let me know if you find anything else out with this. I will try and diagnose the issue.
What is this part called for a 2017 Ford Explorer?😭
Lift gate strut
Just disconnect the battery and allow the entire system to reset, worked for our explorer without having to take apart anything; the part wasn’t bad it just simply was misreading information.
your welcome 😊
Did that. Also pulled the fuse to reset.... and nothing. Your fix only works if the left side (which is powered) fails.
There’s a manual recalibration if your doors out of wack, all you have to do is hold the rear trunk close button for a few seconds until it initiates. No need for disconnecting your battery and resetting everything. You’re* welcome.
Also, dudes new shock clearly fixed this issue without recalibrating.. so….
*My explorer is xlt with manual tailgate can i install power tailgate?*
Negative. missing wires to control the power actuator.
What do I search for? My 2013 Ford Escape titanium is doing same thing
Mine just started doing this yesterday - I am headed to the dealership in the morning - Hope it's covered under my warranty
Glad it helped. Just get the part, don't let them scare you into letting them do it. It's such an easy fix!
My 2017 liftgate came down on my head. It didn't reverse when it hit me. Not happy!
Do you know the part number for that gas strut?
Mine is doing the same exact thing!!! (Ford Edge)Like exactly m, even when I disable it (I personally don’t care to have it open automatically) I just have to listen for the chimes to see if I might need the same repair you have because I just got my truck, no warranty and I didn’t know it was broke
My car is XLT didnt come with auto lock unlock trunk so can i install this system and what parts i need?
What if on manual it holds up????
Is it a different problem?
Great video 👍
Thanks.... Hope it helped!
I had the same problem with my 2013 Explorer and it was the right side that was bad. Only mine was stick under warranty.
Thanks for the video !! Going try this on my 2012
Disculpa cambiaste ambos lados o como sabes cual no funciona ?
Hi Oscar,My explorer is doing the same thing How did you Know that it was the support strut that needed to be replaced? Just because it would not stay up?
The chimes when it reaches the top indicated that something heavy was preventing it from staying up, so I just assumed the door itself was the culprit. The bigger of the 2 struts was making the 'whirring' noise, indicating that it was working. So common sense tells me the other was used to just hold it up. My assumption was correct!!
Thank you !
The same thing is starting to happen on my 14 Escape.....goes up and then slow falls....though it is not as worn are yours. Still you might have saved me!
Golden Manuever Mine started going down slowly at first, then the strut finally gave out. Hope it helps!
It did, your the best....just I am $130 lighter!
would this work on a 2016 model?
Yes it would.
thank you so much I have happen left tail gate of my car
You're very welcome.
Thanks brother...peaCE!
I have replaced both struts on my edge which has the power gate lift fine, but then when I try to close it, it drops 10 inches and goes back up. I have to click second time as it stops for it to shut. This is an issue throughout all ford models Escape, Edge and Explorer. Its a shame Ford hasn't got any way to fix this. It is a mess
kkponolures I wouldn’t even care if I could use it manually but I can’t! That’s messed up!
Thanks man v much
Thanks bro...
My pleasure. Glad it helped.
I have the same problem with my car Ford Escape 13 😅
Genuine OEM Ford Flex Liftgate Trunk Actuator DA8Z14B351A
Party plates!
Struts on heavy liftgates and hoods are a bad design IMO, tend to fail every few years. They should have used an old school spring mechanism to take up most of the weight then the strut just to assist and smooth and slow it, so it lasts longer.
I had my doubts.. after I heard you say the passenger side is “wasted”… I thought you were going to do something lame like try to put a motorized actuator on that side.. like, “that side is not being utilized.. ie. wasted”.
I bet dealers everywhere are screwing over people left and right on this easy fix. $300 diagnosis, 2 hours road test, 2 hours labor @$220 and $150 for the new strut.
I have the same problem ☹️
problematic fucking car, another failed designed by FORD
At least it's an easy and cheap fix. Don't take it to Ford, where they'll screw you for something so simple.
Lololololol actuator and shock are bad.