I used one of those fieldpiece manometers for years before I retired. The more you use it the more you will find you can use it for. You can 😮tee it into the line between the induced draft blower and the switch to see what kind of pressure you’re actually getting off of your induced draft blower. You can use it to set gas pressures so you can check your incoming and manifold pressure at the same time. You can use it to check static pressure on the ductwork. If you know what your pressure drop is supposed to be across a given coil, you can tell if your coil is dirty, by checking pressure drop across the coil.
I have one of those, although I have yet to "scratch the surface" of its capabilities. Hopefully that little pump will hold up over time. I think a white backlight instead of a blue one would have been far easier to read, and although I have yet to run the battery down, AAA or AA batteries seem like they would have been a better choice instead of the nine volt battery it uses. I could see that little pump really wolfing down batteries as things are. Fieldpiece also highly recommends frequently zeroing out the manometer...
frequent zeroing with all hoses unhooked is a must, as temperature and (mainly)battery voltage changes, it drifts out of calibration/off zero. it doesn't hurt to let them pump run a few minutes and re-zero before hooking up hoses to test, that removes battery surface charge and lets it stabilize. that's my main complaint with the tool. granted it's not meant to be nor marketed as NIST traceable lab grade accuracy. 🥳
I've used this tool to diagnose plugged secondary heat exchangers on some of the older 90% furnaces. Yes, that's correct. Some manufactures' (if they have the specs) will give you the specifications to do the "differential test". (In perfect conditions with venting, etc, you should be pulling a certain range of "W.C. your checking your vacuum on both the intake and exhaust side, and calculating the difference) However, since all new furnaces now seem to not have a dedicated burner box for outdoor combustion air anymore, this test is now becoming obsolete. But this test saved me alot of time, I usually only did it on certain model *cough* carrier furnaces that I was already suspicious about the first time I walked in and saw it, but i've ran it on some older lennox and icps also.
Surprised a new manometer wasn’t released when they came out with there new CA or at least improve this one to be able to link with the app for certain features. The display manometers been around for awhile now.
grate manometer, but the pump is way to strong for sensitive or low pressure actuating switches found on drain ports, spent lots on service calls frustrated till I figured it out. have to allow some vacuum leak. you could let it suck through a tee i hold the hose close to the port to measure sensitive switches. took a while but i set all my universal pressure switches with that no problems now. all so do static testing to determine duct problems, or to document TESP. also use it for the obvious gas pressure measurements, strong magnet is a plus. but it sure wont tell you if there is enough good contact electrically to work as your not measuring oms.
was you using the special little bleeder tee/coupling? it allows some of pumped air to escape and makes smaller measurements more accurate. you can also use a standard tee and a needle valve type shutoff to make your own adjustable bleeder, then adjust it and the pump speed together for more precise pressure control.
only thing I'll suggest, is checking the switch a dozen times or more in a row. just gently/slowly disconnect and connect one of the tubes at Y fitting or tool end instead of adjusting the pump. those danged switches can be very intermittent and super pesky to catch not working right, even repeat testing won't always catch them. stupid things!
You can tell it was a clone from looking at the little thumbnail avatar or whatever cause your dogs head is way at the top almost cut off.... I have a screen shot of it.
Switches don't close with no vacuum from the inducer housing. Clean the tubes from the inducer housing first dummies! Switches seldom go bad. Tap on them to release the points.
I used a paperclip 📎 twice to clear dust or rust or debris from the inducer nipples. No wonder the switch can't close! No need for such a gizmo that common sense can't fix.
I used one of those fieldpiece manometers for years before I retired. The more you use it the more you will find you can use it for. You can 😮tee it into the line between the induced draft blower and the switch to see what kind of pressure you’re actually getting off of your induced draft blower. You can use it to set gas pressures so you can check your incoming and manifold pressure at the same time. You can use it to check static pressure on the ductwork. If you know what your pressure drop is supposed to be across a given coil, you can tell if your coil is dirty, by checking pressure drop across the coil.
I love those for setting universal pressure switches to get customers heat in a pinch.
I have one of those, although I have yet to "scratch the surface" of its capabilities. Hopefully that little pump will hold up over time.
I think a white backlight instead of a blue one would have been far easier to read, and although I have yet to run the battery down, AAA or AA batteries seem like they would have been a better choice instead of the nine volt battery it uses. I could see that little pump really wolfing down batteries as things are. Fieldpiece also highly recommends frequently zeroing out the manometer...
frequent zeroing with all hoses unhooked is a must, as temperature and (mainly)battery voltage changes, it drifts out of calibration/off zero.
it doesn't hurt to let them pump run a few minutes and re-zero before hooking up hoses to test, that removes battery surface charge and lets it stabilize. that's my main complaint with the tool. granted it's not meant to be nor marketed as NIST traceable lab grade accuracy. 🥳
This is something that should have been out long ago. Great video
Hello from the great state of Michigan
They are great,I being having one for years,but I don't use it much
I've had one for several years. It works great,
I've used this tool to diagnose plugged secondary heat exchangers on some of the older 90% furnaces. Yes, that's correct. Some manufactures' (if they have the specs) will give you the specifications to do the "differential test". (In perfect conditions with venting, etc, you should be pulling a certain range of "W.C. your checking your vacuum on both the intake and exhaust side, and calculating the difference) However, since all new furnaces now seem to not have a dedicated burner box for outdoor combustion air anymore, this test is now becoming obsolete. But this test saved me alot of time, I usually only did it on certain model *cough* carrier furnaces that I was already suspicious about the first time I walked in and saw it, but i've ran it on some older lennox and icps also.
I usually try to remove flue pipe to see if there is blockage. I had one of those meters, but it was relieved from my possession.
Good product , I like Fieldpiece as well ... Good demo ...
The price was right; that's for sure. I am curious what the man stands for in manometer. 😎
Surprised a new manometer wasn’t released when they came out with there new CA or at least improve this one to be able to link with the app for certain features. The display manometers been around for awhile now.
Damn great tool
checking switches/sensors, gas valves, and static pressure
I may get one of them !!!!
Your lucky these tools are very expensive
Thank you
It’s a good product , only thing it has all that jammed in a small case. I bought the bigger case for it.
grate manometer, but the pump is way to strong for sensitive or low pressure actuating switches found on drain ports, spent lots on service calls frustrated till I figured it out. have to allow some vacuum leak. you could let it suck through a tee i hold the hose close to the port to measure sensitive switches. took a while but i set all my universal pressure switches with that no problems now. all so do static testing to determine duct problems, or to document TESP. also use it for the obvious gas pressure measurements, strong magnet is a plus. but it sure wont tell you if there is enough good contact electrically to work as your not measuring oms.
was you using the special little bleeder tee/coupling? it allows some of pumped air to escape and makes smaller measurements more accurate.
you can also use a standard tee and a needle valve type shutoff to make your own adjustable bleeder, then adjust it and the pump speed together for more precise pressure control.
You can use an ohmmeter to test the resistance across the contacts when the switch closes using the Fieldpiece SDMN6. 😃
famous last words, whatever you want to call it..
only thing I'll suggest, is checking the switch a dozen times or more in a row. just gently/slowly disconnect and connect one of the tubes at Y fitting or tool end instead of adjusting the pump.
those danged switches can be very intermittent and super pesky to catch not working right, even repeat testing won't always catch them. stupid things!
Someone high jacked mt name at the end of Zacks live stream, that was not me making those comments!
Clones... happens a lot... welcome to the cesspool.
😂
You can tell it was a clone from looking at the little thumbnail avatar or whatever cause your dogs head is way at the top almost cut off.... I have a screen shot of it.
Got it.
you sure it wasn't the brown bottles talking? 🤣🤪🥳🤡
Switches don't close with no vacuum from the inducer housing. Clean the tubes from the inducer housing first dummies! Switches seldom go bad. Tap on them to release the points.
I used a paperclip 📎 twice to clear dust or rust or debris from the inducer nipples. No wonder the switch can't close! No need for such a gizmo that common sense can't fix.