I was also wondering if you would be willing to do a video on replacing the front anti roll bar bushings as well? I've seen some write-ups on it but no good videos and you seem to not only know your way around a Saab but also make good videos explaining how to do things!!
Adam Zahn Hi Adam, thanks for the compliment and also for watching. Funnily enough it was exactly that lack of detail in many other channels that got me started here in the first place. That and some of the bigger channels who are high on "entertainment value" but low on actual useful tips & techniques. Back to the main point - yes I did intend to do a video for the front arb bushes at much the same time as this one, but when I came to do the job, I found it was much much harder than I expected. It is definitely necessary to drop at least the left rear subframe mount around an inch or so. I need to work out a method I can show the world that will work SAFELY. I'm also taking a break due to illness in the family, so I hope you can bear with me. If, in the meantime, you manage it successfully please share any tips you come across.
The bushing were a real pain on mine. I had to use smaller mm bushings because the rollbar had chipped off a little under the bushings. I had to jack the rollbar with the bushings into the bracket, and had to use the small jack included in the car to push the bracket into place. Totally worth it though! The horrible clunking noises from the rear while driving on bumpy roads is completely gone!
I've got front near side suspension knocking noise on my 2003 Vectra C 2.0 DTi which I'm guessing is drop links. I'll check tomorrow to make sure before ordering parts. If so, I will do both front drop links and the front ARB bushes while I'm at it. I've been looking for videos of these jobs and came across your channel and some videos of you working on the Saab equivalent. Great videos, you get to the point, and you show the job in good detail. You've got yourself a new subscriber. Amazing work. Thanks.
Thanks for the guide. I just did this job on my 9-3. The drop link bushings were incredibly tough to get off even with vice grips to pry against. I was sweating when I was done. Putting on new ones was only slightly easier.
Simple and informative. Thanks Im going to be doing these two items and front drop links as well as front shocks next week. Lucky insofar as I have the use of a lift!
Hi there Sir. I hope you'll forgive an off-topic question (this video anyway) but I have an issue with my 53 plate 9-3 (97K) that is really bugging me. I have an unidentified body knock coming from the rear. It was mostly n/s, but now both sides seem as bad. Rear springs are done, rear brakes are done (that has made it worse somehow) my mechanic, who I trust, gave the suspension a clean bill of health. He was looking for the noise without success. Tyre wear is even. Exhaust not the culprit. I understand worn wishbones can produce a sound like the exhaust knocking, but suspension cleared! I did have a garage tell me there was play in the rear control arms, but no one else has detected it... Yesterday got a loud knock from seemingly close behind my seat on a really insignificant road bump. The 9-5 I owned allegedly had rusty fuel tank supports. Only had garages word for it. Also apparently can be odd noises from fuel sloshing within the tank - 9-5 again. Don't seriously think it's that. Worried about sub frame moving perhaps? Can't find anyone on the net who's experienced that? I know the underbody protection is flaking and getting it done next month, but this is really starting to concern me. It's hard to make it do it, but a little sideways torque can produce it - sometimes. Car handling perfectly well, so I am stumped. Any suggestion would be very welcome - Many Thanks, from Tim in Ludlow.
Hi Tim, you are lucky. Ludlow and surroundings are beautiful. I'm led to believe there is some great MTB trails in the area, but I haven't been yet. The rear ARB bushes and drop links are prone to knocking and it can be very hard to detect. Banana arms are also prone at the outer joint (a sort-of rose joint). Your mechanic really should have one of these: amzn.to/32C5UPA. Chassis Engineers at OEs use professional versions to find noise sources.
@@CycloneCyd Hello again Sir. Thought you'd be interested that this mystery knock has finally been diagnosed at service. I'm told it the rear n/s droplink, but that the play wasn't detectable except with the suspension in a half compressed state, so I guess my guy could be forgiven for not finding it. Getting it done at MoT next month, but the garage I'm dealing with now said that if the inboard fixing is seized it could require dropping the subframe! Sounds alarming... Finding your videos very helpful and informative, so encouraged to get a bit more hands-on with my car. Hope you're keeping well Sir... Tim.
I have to do this very soon I've noticed a lot of noise in the back I haven't taken a peek yet but I'm sure this is what it is this video will help a lot I just need to find the bushings now
@@CycloneCyd In the US. It looks like eEuroparts have the pieces and powerflex supposedly have some really expensive performance pieces that are purple and yellow colored haha
@@CycloneCyd yeah 2004 9-3 Arc 2.0T. I would definitely look into that right now I'm trying to hurry up and fix my other car because I have to get my rotors refinished on the saab I'm getting some stop-and-go motion when I break pretty sure it's definitely the rotors
I was wondering if you would kindly be willing to do a video on replacing the left side interior B Pillar trim? I think mine needs replacing and I can't wrap my head around it.
Cyclone Cyd both I guess. Do they come apart? This is what I need/will want to install: www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/155967/B-Pillar-Trim-Cover-Driver-Side-Black-12763563/ I just don't know how to get it fitted in around the seat belt...
Sorry about the slow response. Yeah, I'll look into that for you and do a video. Hope time isn't an issue as it may take me a while to get round to it, but if it is please let me know.
I am doing rear droplinks on my 57 plate Vectra 1.9 120 bhp. Got the torx bolt ( not e14 ) out which wasnt easy with rear spring being in the way. Now the torx is out how do I seperate the droplink from the roll bar or should I use a grinder ? Thanks
On the 9-3 the fronts are massively more difficult than the rears. I'm not familiar with the 9-5 but it wouldn't surprise me if the same applied. Thanks for watching and interacting and do let us know how you get on.
Hello good video, did you replace these because they were noisy? (squeaky) mine is making squeaky and creaking noises when going over bumps at slow speeds!
@@patrykasroma007 It's an M10x60 flange screw. A bolt would do okay as long as the plain portion of the shaft doesn't protrude beyond the bush. OE, the head is an e-torx, but you'll probably find it easier to source a hex head. Also OE is dacromet finish, I'd try and get stainless as dacromet might be hard to find (yellow zinc will rot away in no time)
It's an M10x60 flange screw. A bolt would do okay as long as the plain portion of the shaft doesn't protrude beyond the bush. OE, the head is an e-torx, but you'll probably find it easier to source a hex head. Also OE is dacromet finish, I'd try and get stainless as dacromet might be hard to find (yellow zinc will rot away in no time)
Car's done 127k miles and could see visually that the old ones were a shade 'ropey'. 100k/10yrs is about the expected life of rubber bushes. Time for a refresh. Defo made a difference. Never apologise for asking questions. Every day is a school day!
@@CycloneCyd Thanks Cyd, I love the channel. Its helped me with a number of issues on my car. I've done ~127k miles in my '07 9-3 at this point, and was considering replacing the suspension as a refresh and to lower the car a bit (either Bilstein B8's or maybe KW coilovers, though I am trying to figure out which is the easier install as I'd like to do it myself and have never done it before). Since the car is my daily driver, I haven't noticed any substantial performance/handling decline, but that may be possibly due to the fact that it could be a little bit every day as opposed to all at once (like boiling a frog as the expression goes). Is it worth replacing the back shocks/spring and front struts without replacing the bushings on the rear anti roll bar? Would I see a big handling uptick in only doing the bushings as opposed to putting in the other new hardware? Lastly, do you have a recommendation on the Bilstein B8's vs KW's for a green horn? Thanks!
What? Just because they look old? Well, that's because they are old. They were part of my service lane kit 35years ago in my rallying days. They've seen a lot of action. Thanks for watching.
Hello Tomas, thanks for watching and interacting. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. Yes, the subframe needs to be moved to do fronts. I tried and couldn't change them without doing it. I haven't done the fronts yet! Mine are desperate for changing.
I was also wondering if you would be willing to do a video on replacing the front anti roll bar bushings as well?
I've seen some write-ups on it but no good videos and you seem to not only know your way around a Saab but also make good videos explaining how to do things!!
Adam Zahn
Hi Adam, thanks for the compliment and also for watching. Funnily enough it was exactly that lack of detail in many other channels that got me started here in the first place. That and some of the bigger channels who are high on "entertainment value" but low on actual useful tips & techniques.
Back to the main point - yes I did intend to do a video for the front arb bushes at much the same time as this one, but when I came to do the job, I found it was much much harder than I expected. It is definitely necessary to drop at least the left rear subframe mount around an inch or so. I need to work out a method I can show the world that will work SAFELY.
I'm also taking a break due to illness in the family, so I hope you can bear with me. If, in the meantime, you manage it successfully please share any tips you come across.
R,r,r,r,e,r,e,r,,,,,,,,,
@@CycloneCyd m
The bushing were a real pain on mine. I had to use smaller mm bushings because the rollbar had chipped off a little under the bushings. I had to jack the rollbar with the bushings into the bracket, and had to use the small jack included in the car to push the bracket into place. Totally worth it though! The horrible clunking noises from the rear while driving on bumpy roads is completely gone!
Yeah, you would have to force it in using a smaller bush.
I've got front near side suspension knocking noise on my 2003 Vectra C 2.0 DTi which I'm guessing is drop links. I'll check tomorrow to make sure before ordering parts. If so, I will do both front drop links and the front ARB bushes while I'm at it. I've been looking for videos of these jobs and came across your channel and some videos of you working on the Saab equivalent. Great videos, you get to the point, and you show the job in good detail. You've got yourself a new subscriber. Amazing work. Thanks.
Great video, boss collection of informative vids on the SAAB 9-3 not a bad video ever. Thanks, Vinny.
Thanks
Thanks for the guide. I just did this job on my 9-3. The drop link bushings were incredibly tough to get off even with vice grips to pry against. I was sweating when I was done. Putting on new ones was only slightly easier.
Great video. Going to be trying this myself. Thanks for your time
Thanks Paul, comments like yours make it all worthwhile.
Simple and informative. Thanks Im going to be doing these two items and front drop links as well as front shocks next week. Lucky insofar as I have the use of a lift!
Oh, how I wish❗ You are indeed lucky 🤘
Brilliant, thank you for taking the time to make the video. It will be helpful when I come to do mine
No problem 👍
Very good straight to the point video , I'll be doing mine very soon👍
Thanks Sean. Make sure to come back and let us know how you get on, especially if you find a method or short cut I haven't covered
Hi there Sir. I hope you'll forgive an off-topic question (this video anyway) but I have an issue with my 53 plate 9-3 (97K) that is really bugging me. I have an unidentified body knock coming from the rear. It was mostly n/s, but now both sides seem as bad. Rear springs are done, rear brakes are done (that has made it worse somehow) my mechanic, who I trust, gave the suspension a clean bill of health. He was looking for the noise without success. Tyre wear is even. Exhaust not the culprit. I understand worn wishbones can produce a sound like the exhaust knocking, but suspension cleared! I did have a garage tell me there was play in the rear control arms, but no one else has detected it...
Yesterday got a loud knock from seemingly close behind my seat on a really insignificant road bump. The 9-5 I owned allegedly had rusty fuel tank supports. Only had garages word for it. Also apparently can be odd noises from fuel sloshing within the tank - 9-5 again. Don't seriously think it's that. Worried about sub frame moving perhaps? Can't find anyone on the net who's experienced that? I know the underbody protection is flaking and getting it done next month, but this is really starting to concern me. It's hard to make it do it, but a little sideways torque can produce it - sometimes.
Car handling perfectly well, so I am stumped. Any suggestion would be very welcome - Many Thanks, from Tim in Ludlow.
Hi Tim, you are lucky. Ludlow and surroundings are beautiful. I'm led to believe there is some great MTB trails in the area, but I haven't been yet.
The rear ARB bushes and drop links are prone to knocking and it can be very hard to detect. Banana arms are also prone at the outer joint (a sort-of rose joint).
Your mechanic really should have one of these: amzn.to/32C5UPA. Chassis Engineers at OEs use professional versions to find noise sources.
@@CycloneCyd Hello again Sir. Thought you'd be interested that this mystery knock has finally been diagnosed at service. I'm told it the rear n/s droplink, but that the play wasn't detectable except with the suspension in a half compressed state, so I guess my guy could be forgiven for not finding it. Getting it done at MoT next month, but the garage I'm dealing with now said that if the inboard fixing is seized it could require dropping the subframe! Sounds alarming... Finding your videos very helpful and informative, so encouraged to get a bit more hands-on with my car. Hope you're keeping well Sir... Tim.
I have to do this very soon I've noticed a lot of noise in the back I haven't taken a peek yet but I'm sure this is what it is this video will help a lot I just need to find the bushings now
Where in the world are you?
@@CycloneCyd In the US. It looks like eEuroparts have the pieces and powerflex supposedly have some really expensive performance pieces that are purple and yellow colored haha
@@abdomination Powerflex are okay - use purple on a 'daily'. Yellow and black are much more 'hardcore' aimed at rally and track users.
@@abdomination If it's a 9-3 or Vec C tho, I would use black for the front, lower wishbone, rear bush (the big one). Keep torque steer under control!
@@CycloneCyd yeah 2004 9-3 Arc 2.0T. I would definitely look into that right now I'm trying to hurry up and fix my other car because I have to get my rotors refinished on the saab I'm getting some stop-and-go motion when I break pretty sure it's definitely the rotors
Have you renewed the front one,s aswell,and have you a video for this thanks
Not yet. You need to drop the rear end of the subframe an inch or so to get at them.
Great informative videos. Thanks
Lovely, worth investing in some e-Torx spanner’s if working on GM cars.
Yes, I'd agree, though luckily pro quality 12 point metric spanners also fit nicely over the splines. Ok for low to medium torque applications.
Have you done the front ARB bushes? Help would be appreciated 😊👍
Unfortunately not. As far as I can tell, it really is necessary to drop the rear of the subframe and I haven't 'braved' that yet.
Ive done my front sway bar bushes without removing the bar or dropping subframe
Flexi head ratchet essential
Do I have to loosen or Drop Links when I need to replace Anti Roll Bar?
Is it easier to have the anti roll bar disconnected at both sides before doing the D bushes?
Maybe. TBH I never even thought about it - just did one side then the other
I was wondering if you would kindly be willing to do a video on replacing the left side interior B Pillar trim? I think mine needs replacing and I can't wrap my head around it.
Adam Zahn lower or upper?
Cyclone Cyd both I guess. Do they come apart? This is what I need/will want to install: www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/155967/B-Pillar-Trim-Cover-Driver-Side-Black-12763563/
I just don't know how to get it fitted in around the seat belt...
Sorry about the slow response. Yeah, I'll look into that for you and do a video. Hope time isn't an issue as it may take me a while to get round to it, but if it is please let me know.
Cyclone Cyd not an issue at all! Thanks for looking into it!
+Adam Zahn I've done the filming, now doing the editing. B pillar trim will be next up. Keep an eye on your notifications from Friday onwards.
got replacement drop links from Parts for Saab £31 pair delivered
I am doing rear droplinks on my 57 plate Vectra 1.9 120 bhp. Got the torx bolt ( not e14 ) out which wasnt easy with rear spring being in the way. Now the torx is out how do I seperate the droplink from the roll bar or should I use a grinder ? Thanks
Hi Mark, thanks for watching and interacting
See the video from 1:15 to 1:40 - it just pulls off
hi mate is it the same on vectra c
YES
Yes, but on a Vectra it's an internal T50 Torx bit to get the upper droplink bolt out.
Great 👍 thanks
So useful these !
Thanks G. Glad to help
My silicone inner piece pops out the metal part trying to pry the new one on 😭
Gotta replace the bushings on the front anti roll bar on my 2006 saab 9-5 but that seems to be more difficult.
On the 9-3 the fronts are massively more difficult than the rears. I'm not familiar with the 9-5 but it wouldn't surprise me if the same applied.
Thanks for watching and interacting and do let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd I never been working on a 9-3 but I guess it is even tighter on a 9-3 than a 9-5 though.
Hello good video, did you replace these because they were noisy? (squeaky) mine is making squeaky and creaking noises when going over bumps at slow speeds!
Oh yeah, proper noisy over bumps.
My bolt is broken. Do you know what size it is ? Lenght and diameter
Which bolt precisely? I can find out.
The one which attack to the droplink
@@patrykasroma007 It's an M10x60 flange screw. A bolt would do okay as long as the plain portion of the shaft doesn't protrude beyond the bush. OE, the head is an e-torx, but you'll probably find it easier to source a hex head. Also OE is dacromet finish, I'd try and get stainless as dacromet might be hard to find (yellow zinc will rot away in no time)
It's an M10x60 flange screw. A bolt would do okay as long as the plain portion of the shaft doesn't protrude beyond the bush. OE, the head is an e-torx, but you'll probably find it easier to source a hex head. Also OE is dacromet finish, I'd try and get stainless as dacromet might be hard to find (yellow zinc will rot away in no time)
Cyclone Cyd thank you !!!!!! 😁
Why prompted you to do replacement? Noise? Performance? I'm just learning, not a skilled diyer.
Car's done 127k miles and could see visually that the old ones were a shade 'ropey'. 100k/10yrs is about the expected life of rubber bushes. Time for a refresh. Defo made a difference.
Never apologise for asking questions. Every day is a school day!
@@CycloneCyd Thanks Cyd, I love the channel. Its helped me with a number of issues on my car. I've done ~127k miles in my '07 9-3 at this point, and was considering replacing the suspension as a refresh and to lower the car a bit (either Bilstein B8's or maybe KW coilovers, though I am trying to figure out which is the easier install as I'd like to do it myself and have never done it before). Since the car is my daily driver, I haven't noticed any substantial performance/handling decline, but that may be possibly due to the fact that it could be a little bit every day as opposed to all at once (like boiling a frog as the expression goes). Is it worth replacing the back shocks/spring and front struts without replacing the bushings on the rear anti roll bar? Would I see a big handling uptick in only doing the bushings as opposed to putting in the other new hardware? Lastly, do you have a recommendation on the Bilstein B8's vs KW's for a green horn?
Thanks!
Your banana arm looks bad. Definitely need to fix new ones and upload a video.
Ohh and also, i need to fix mine and cant manage 🤣
I've just bought a pair of banana arms. Video in the summer.
@@CycloneCyd just done the banana arms, lot easier than I thought. Tbh not a lot wrong with the old ones.
Did you pick up the axle stands from the Titanic?
What? Just because they look old? Well, that's because they are old. They were part of my service lane kit 35years ago in my rallying days. They've seen a lot of action.
Thanks for watching.
This job is so easy you could do it in your sleep - 🔧 1 spanner on the difficu;lty scale 😂
Would like to see front antiroll bar bushes change. Because theoretically front frame have to be removed :(
Hello Tomas, thanks for watching and interacting. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe.
Yes, the subframe needs to be moved to do fronts. I tried and couldn't change them without doing it.
I haven't done the fronts yet! Mine are desperate for changing.
Hard enough lol
Hi matey. So noob style this is ok