Sustainable re-bolting: stud bolt removal technique
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2014
- Better video of the same technique here: • Sustainable re-bolting...
Update on technique: instead of striking the bolt with a hammer to release the collar, put the spinner tool on and start the spinning by using 'hammer mode'. Once it gets going you can switch to rotary mode. Striking with a hammer is more likely to drive the bolt too deep into the rock and you might not have enough threads protruding afterwards...
How-to clinic on climbing anchor replacement.
This shows a bolt removal from start to finish and explains the strategy behind it without getting too bogged down in the technical details of the tools. 
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![Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/46CJWZYVSGY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]](/img/tr.png)
In case you are about to post a comment about the cropping - just watch this instead: ruclips.net/video/dY0Du9WU_c0/видео.html
This particular video is only helpful if you have some experience with the tools involved and have questions about technique. The presentation was for the benefit of ~20 people standing behind the tripod-mounted GoPro and not for a general RUclips audience. That said, if you have actual questions about climbing anchor replacement, post them here and I will be happy to assist.
Greg… any chance you could rerecord this? So much of what you are trying to show is out of frame.
It is pretty tight. Although the tool is out of frame when I talk about it, you get to see it when I set it down. Not ideal in that it doesn't sync up with the narration, but I think most folks can still get the idea of how it works. I'll see about re-shooting it later.
I will have to say that this technique works, except I had to pull out 3/4 lag and I did it with just barehands and brute strength. Thank you for the video saved my ass at work
Greg this is a wonderful video. I don't exactly understand how you are making a score in the cone end so that the collar won't glide past it. Is it the friction of the dust between the collar and the cone that is the 'sanding' part ? Does this cause the cone to become thinner at the top so it's got less chance to expand ?
I'm sure glad YOU were able to see that 'spinner tool' because I sure couldn't.
www.mountainproject.com/v/111778111
Thanks Greg!
LMfAO I had to laugh 😹 but thanks for the new link fellas
I’m looking to install some 4 3/4” bolts. What size bit will I need to make the hole the appropriate size, lots of conflicting info out there. Thank you!
Hello !! The 3/4 to 3/8 Male Coupling Tool where you can buy it; I bought a greenlee but it doesn't match the thread
Please name the tool you used, at 1:23 (the sleeve and the drive with thread), also at the end 4:00
Instead of the pulling tool, could you just do up the nut until it gets to the end?
Excelent stuff 😊
Use a rock lag bolt - in and out - several times, no other hardware. But I build, not climb. No death wish. 6' off the ground is enough for me.
So the replacement must be bigger than the original bolt, so 3/8" to 1/2". Are there any methods that work without that hydraulic tool?
In theory you could replace a 3/8" stud with a 3/8" 5-piece. We have chosen the 1/2" 5-piece as our standard in Eldo so all the replacement holes are getting re-sized. There are non-hydraulic tools. ruclips.net/video/ZxQKIYgXu-c/видео.html
@@german13289 xxx
God Bless Bro.
I cannot see the tools when you explain your tools as they are outside the shot
Any advice for removing the wedge anchors that use a small clip, like what's sitting on the left on the video? Thanks!
MXicon Same technique. Those often come out more easily since the collar quickly cuts a sharper edge on the wedge. I can often get them out with the drill and water alone.
Thats wild. U guys are geniuses for figuring this out. But what if you cant remove the top nut because the whole bolt is spinning and the nut was cross threaded?
Added a better video of the same technique here: ruclips.net/video/dY0Du9WU_c0/видео.html
Greg German i
so what is that adapter thing that you put into the SDS adaptor and then male thread into the 3/8 nut? did you make that or something you can buy?
You can get one from the ASCA: www.safeclimbing.org/
The bolt i have is not going in after hammering it 😱 im in a rental apartment - I need to remove it as soon as possible lol . You think drilling next to it and hammering left and right will help
I don't think your drill is happy. That could be hammer stuff, but you said that was off. It makes sense, though, (normal) drill bearings aren't intended for pulling!
Wats the point? Way to do that?
Golan dan The point is to reuse the hole for a new, better bolt. Normally you drill the hole up to a larger size/bolt. Otherwise, over time there will be several old bolts at the spot, which is not good for anyone.
Wow
Good show.... So what! cinematography isn't everything..great acting!
Wouldn't be bad if you actually filmed the tool that you made!
Holding the tool out of sight from the camera
we can't see any of it dude
Great info but crappy camera placement and too much talking? Can you redo it?
Your video cannot see what you do
Sure is a lot of "this" off camera. Could be a good video if the parts and active area were visible in the frame
You need to redo this video so we can see what you are talking about.
very nice! just one thing though, the hydraulic tool is about $900
+Achisachis73 www.ebay.com/itm/Greenlee-7806SB-Quick-Draw-Hydraulic-Punch-Driver-Set-/371432091177?hash=item567b13ee29
Used ones can be found for ~$250.
Working on a non-hydraulic bolt removal tool that will be very inexpensive.
Greg German
very nice!
Why not abandon the bolt and drill a new one?
The hole will just get bigger and will have to rely on glue to hold it.
How many times would you use the same hole? thanks
+Achisachis73 Several reasons:
-chopping and patching is a bad policy. There is only so much real estate and sometimes the bolt is in the best location with no good alternatives nearby.
-the removed bolt was 3/8", but the replacement will be a 1/2" 5-piece mechanical bolt which can be easily removed. That hole can be re-used several times.
-if the replacement bolt were a glue-in, it would be much, much stronger and longer lasting - not weaker if that is what you are implying.
Greg German
I agree with you about the glue in bolt. At work, I have done several anchoring methods for about 20 years, glue is nowadays very impressive in its strength.
I am not a very experienced rock climber so I ask, How ofter do you do this? let's say, at El Capitan or any other popular wall
+Achisachis73 Power tools are not allowed in federal Wilderness areas without special exemptions. Bolt replacements in national parks are usually done with hand tools and often must be chopped and patched as a result. Luckily many of the bolts being replaced on El Cap are 1/4" bolts where the hole can be reamed to 3/8" for a fresh bolt.
I do this sort of work one or two days a month here in Colorado, mostly in Eldorado Canyon State Park.
In the beginning, you are "showing" us tools that aren't on camera.
there is a tool for everything, and in this case it was...dust.
You can see anything about your tool set up dude nice cement wall
No body can see what your doing re do it
You need to delete this video and re-record it.
The other video reference is also terrible because it's all a far shot.
If its only for he 20 people behind you then don’t put it on youtube.
Now you have a hole that will fill in with water and freeze and crack the concrete. An angle grinder would cut these off on 30 seconds!
Too many talking. Zzz
I think its to much. Go home now.