This was excellently demonstrated and communicated. Really clear instructions and rationalizations for each decision. I especially liked how you were running out of carabiners like we might in the same situation. This feels like helpful and actionable directions. Really good resource for belay escape, and rescue. Liked, and subscribed.
Another great video. A lot going on there😱. Going to take a lot of practice to master that one, hopefully though i'll never need it. Thanks again fir these 👍.
jim cross just take it a step at a time. Each step is simple and the same as what we have done before. The only new bits are: 1. the klemheist around the anchor ropes, 2. Transferring the Italian hitch. 3. Retrying the power point so you can ab off it. All stuff you can manage😃. What else are you going to do this weekend👍😆
Thanks Sam. Got scaffold up at the back of the house just now so going to give it a try today though definitely wont be abbing off it 😂 As you say one step at at time. These are the best times to practice these techniques.
First attempt didnt go to well, dropped my belay plate when creating the second master point and it ended up at the bottom of the scaffolding 😱😱. I tried to improvise and ab with italian hitch, seemed to go ok but not sure if its safe. Second attempt was much better, got to the stage where i was ready to ab off. These are things I will practice as much as possible. Again thanks for these videos 👍
If you couldn't bring the anchors together because of angle or tension would you just put on separate prussics on each strand and then equalise with a sling?
Hi Sam, thanks so much for putting these videos out there. Query that came up while I was working through this with double ropes. Do you just treat both ropes as one and do everything exactly the same way or do you change certain parts of the process?
Hi, Great video, thankyou, was playing around with this the other day and considered putting the prussik above my ab device in order to make re ascending the rope once first aid or whatever you are doing is done an easier task. Is this something you've got much experience of and would either encourage or discourage from doing :)? Love to hear thoughts . Many thanks, Kyle :)
kyle prosser thanks very much. Yes if you thought it was a quick fix and then you were heading back up the rope that would work well, if it’s not too steep you can flip your pivot into guide mode on your harness and combine this with the high prusik, this works very well too. The main reason I prefer the prusik below is it means I have two hands on the dead rope, have just always preferred that to one hand above the plate. Personal preference I think. 🤗
@@LeadingEdgeMountain Hi Sam, I'm enjoying your videos thanks. My thoughts on the prusik above the belay plate when abseiling are that while it should still work fine most of the time, if it had to be called to action it might be advisable to use 6mm chord for the prussik above because it takes the entire weight of the descending abseiler and associated friction, potential melting etc. Where as the prussik below the plate for decending just locks the device and maybe thinner cord could suffice. It came to mind because I thought your prusik looked on the thinner side of what might generally be considered safe. I think the original poster would be better off to put the prusik below for the decent and take the extra few seconds to back up the belay plate (overhand in break strand, with leg wraps to stop the overhand being pulled into the device 😉very safe ), while switching it to above for the ascent of the rope. What are your thoughts on these points. Ps the pivot in guide mode for ascent it a great little trick. I've never needed it, but I have practiced it. Slow but it works okay when set up off a kelmheist as a pully style system for emergency. Would you consider doing a video of that? Thanks again.
Andrew Dineen Hi. Ascending with a Pivot is actually edited and scheduled to be posted on Monday😃, your very right, that in terrain that’s not too steep it’s a brilliant way of getting up the rope. As far as prusik diameter is concerned it’s agin a really good point. I have had some fun and games over the years with fatter prusiks slipping, particularly around the more modern, thin single ropes. My personal preference is to use a 5mm just to ensure that aggressive bite. Doing all the improvised rescue workshops you would be amazed how many prusiks I see slide even under a full load. Not sure if you watched any of Jen’s videos but he likes to use the Simond rated 6mm prusik’s but employs a Klemheist in lots of place where we would normally use a French because they can be a bit slippy. Again it’s personal but I only ever put the prusik above the plate for the known knot while abseiling or going down to manage a casualty that I again know I will be returning back up the rope from. Really dislike only having one hand on the dead rope when abseiling full stop. Personally I am happy that for the very rare likelihood of that situation (I have never had to do either of the above for real) occurring it can be carefully managed. It is a really good point and certainly one that you should be thinking about when descending with a prusik above. I think you would have to be going pretty fast to cause it to melt, have not heard of that happening in this context but Murphy’s law tells us ‘if it can happen, it will happen’.😱 When we actually start analysing a lot of what we do with rescues you can start to see all sorts of places where ‘what if’ would be a pretty awful outcome. It is worth remembering that generally in climbing none of these things happen and if they do one of the key factors that any would be self rescuer needs to be super aware of is that hanging around on any diameter of prusik for any time is potentially dangerous. Making sure decision and technique is done safe and steady without rushing is key to reducing the likelihood of anything funky, scary or dangerous happening to any of the systems being utilised. Does that all make sense? There absolutely nothing wrong with carrying one fat and one thin prusik on your rescue crab just watch out for that fat one on skinny single and slick half ropes. Let me know if that all makes sense and what you think? Sam 😃
@@LeadingEdgeMountain thanks for the detailed response. It is a very good point about the fat prussik not biting as well. I've noticed that sometimes even the sme diameter cord from different companies/ climbing shops can have a different feel and that a stiffer cord might need an extra wrap for it to bite. Good points and looking forward to the next video. Thanks
This was excellently demonstrated and communicated. Really clear instructions and rationalizations for each decision. I especially liked how you were running out of carabiners like we might in the same situation. This feels like helpful and actionable directions. Really good resource for belay escape, and rescue. Liked, and subscribed.
Another great video. A lot going on there😱. Going to take a lot of practice to master that one, hopefully though i'll never need it. Thanks again fir these 👍.
jim cross just take it a step at a time. Each step is simple and the same as what we have done before. The only new bits are: 1. the klemheist around the anchor ropes, 2. Transferring the Italian hitch. 3. Retrying the power point so you can ab off it.
All stuff you can manage😃. What else are you going to do this weekend👍😆
Thanks Sam. Got scaffold up at the back of the house just now so going to give it a try today though definitely wont be abbing off it 😂 As you say one step at at time. These are the best times to practice these techniques.
First attempt didnt go to well, dropped my belay plate when creating the second master point and it ended up at the bottom of the scaffolding 😱😱. I tried to improvise and ab with italian hitch, seemed to go ok but not sure if its safe. Second attempt was much better, got to the stage where i was ready to ab off. These are things I will practice as much as possible. Again thanks for these videos 👍
Love the Italian hitch tip - would definitely save my tennis elbow and my partners bum from twitching! Thanks, keep them coming x
If you couldn't bring the anchors together because of angle or tension would you just put on separate prussics on each strand and then equalise with a sling?
Hi Sam, thanks so much for putting these videos out there. Query that came up while I was working through this with double ropes. Do you just treat both ropes as one and do everything exactly the same way or do you change certain parts of the process?
Hi,
Great video, thankyou, was playing around with this the other day and considered putting the prussik above my ab device in order to make re ascending the rope once first aid or whatever you are doing is done an easier task. Is this something you've got much experience of and would either encourage or discourage from doing :)? Love to hear thoughts .
Many thanks, Kyle :)
kyle prosser thanks very much. Yes if you thought it was a quick fix and then you were heading back up the rope that would work well, if it’s not too steep you can flip your pivot into guide mode on your harness and combine this with the high prusik, this works very well too. The main reason I prefer the prusik below is it means I have two hands on the dead rope, have just always preferred that to one hand above the plate. Personal preference I think. 🤗
@@LeadingEdgeMountain Hi Sam, I'm enjoying your videos thanks.
My thoughts on the prusik above the belay plate when abseiling are that while it should still work fine most of the time, if it had to be called to action it might be advisable to use 6mm chord for the prussik above because it takes the entire weight of the descending abseiler and associated friction, potential melting etc. Where as the prussik below the plate for decending just locks the device and maybe thinner cord could suffice. It came to mind because I thought your prusik looked on the thinner side of what might generally be considered safe. I think the original poster would be better off to put the prusik below for the decent and take the extra few seconds to back up the belay plate (overhand in break strand, with leg wraps to stop the overhand being pulled into the device 😉very safe ), while switching it to above for the ascent of the rope. What are your thoughts on these points.
Ps the pivot in guide mode for ascent it a great little trick. I've never needed it, but I have practiced it. Slow but it works okay when set up off a kelmheist as a pully style system for emergency. Would you consider doing a video of that?
Thanks again.
Andrew Dineen Hi. Ascending with a Pivot is actually edited and scheduled to be posted on Monday😃, your very right, that in terrain that’s not too steep it’s a brilliant way of getting up the rope.
As far as prusik diameter is concerned it’s agin a really good point. I have had some fun and games over the years with fatter prusiks slipping, particularly around the more modern, thin single ropes. My personal preference is to use a 5mm just to ensure that aggressive bite. Doing all the improvised rescue workshops you would be amazed how many prusiks I see slide even under a full load. Not sure if you watched any of Jen’s videos but he likes to use the Simond rated 6mm prusik’s but employs a Klemheist in lots of place where we would normally use a French because they can be a bit slippy.
Again it’s personal but I only ever put the prusik above the plate for the known knot while abseiling or going down to manage a casualty that I again know I will be returning back up the rope from. Really dislike only having one hand on the dead rope when abseiling full stop.
Personally I am happy that for the very rare likelihood of that situation (I have never had to do either of the above for real) occurring it can be carefully managed.
It is a really good point and certainly one that you should be thinking about when descending with a prusik above. I think you would have to be going pretty fast to cause it to melt, have not heard of that happening in this context but Murphy’s law tells us ‘if it can happen, it will happen’.😱
When we actually start analysing a lot of what we do with rescues you can start to see all sorts of places where ‘what if’ would be a pretty awful outcome. It is worth remembering that generally in climbing none of these things happen and if they do one of the key factors that any would be self rescuer needs to be super aware of is that hanging around on any diameter of prusik for any time is potentially dangerous.
Making sure decision and technique is done safe and steady without rushing is key to reducing the likelihood of anything funky, scary or dangerous happening to any of the systems being utilised. Does that all make sense? There absolutely nothing wrong with carrying one fat and one thin prusik on your rescue crab just watch out for that fat one on skinny single and slick half ropes.
Let me know if that all makes sense and what you think? Sam 😃
@@LeadingEdgeMountain thanks for the detailed response. It is a very good point about the fat prussik not biting as well. I've noticed that sometimes even the sme diameter cord from different companies/ climbing shops can have a different feel and that a stiffer cord might need an extra wrap for it to bite.
Good points and looking forward to the next video. Thanks