Thank you for this. Great to listen to someone telling us that it's not the tool, it's the user. So refreshing! Have subscribed on the basis of your honesty.
OK so, the eclipse cs is pretty much all you need. It has a .035 nozzle which helps move paint easier. The trick with the .35 needle is that it has a dual taper which aids in fine lines. Also, The iwata airbrushes have a higher technology air head assembly. There are 3 holes in the cap similar to the microns. No other airbrushes use more than 1 hole. This means there is no extra air pressure conversion within the gun, like there is with iwata. That is why you can use much lower pressure with an iwata. Paint reduction & quality along with a very good compressor with a holding tank is the key to success. The Eclipse is one of the best designs to ever hit the market. You can get decent lines with a cheap airbrush sometimes, but the repeatability and consistency of line pulls will not be as easy. Buy an Eclipse and a Micron and you will have a higher success rate and produce better work. And you should not ever have to replace them. I'm not bashing other airbrushes, but they do not compare. Regardless of how well they are made. Iwata is the king of atomization !
@@CFster Absolutely! All of my Olympos airbrushes have three-hole heads...and as for op's claim of Iwata being the king of atomization--Olympos made the original Micron line of airbrushes and licensed the design to Iwata as Olympos stopped producing airbrushes some years ago. You can still buy them from the Olympos site in Japan as they're selling off all their old stock. I have three Olympos Microns, two MP200-C models and one MP200-B--one of those C models I bought was some $179 w/ free EMS shipping, since then prices have gone up, now a Micron C is about $489 last time I checked. Anyway, the point is the paint atomization of my Olympos airbrushes is every bit as good if not better than any Iwatas (including a CM-C Micron) I've owned in my 44+ years of airbrushing. Wait, I meant this reply for the op and his comment about atomization, not you--my apologies!
Thank you so much, in all your videos, for explaining the WHY of things, not just saying, here's a tip. Understanding why something happens a certain way helps to adopt the action correctly. I have learned so much from your videos as I am just starting in airbrushing. Your work is absolutely beautiful.
i just bought one of those cheapo cordless rechargeable airbrush/compressors off amazon and I was shocked at how well it works. here i never got into it because I didn't want to spend money and this thing works as well as I ever imagined a wicked expensive setup would and I can go take it in the grass and use it w/out any mess or ventilation issues.
This was an eye-opener for me, thank you! I still have my half-century-old Paasche "H" siphon-feed brush, but wanted to try these newer gravity feed designs. I bought a Paasche "Talon" but, while on Amazoid, saw a "Timbertech" on sale for $21, so bought it too as a "practice" brush. I was pretty amazed at the "apparent" quality; smooth joints, excellent chrome work, three cup sizes that were machined/threaded perfectly, 3 needle/nozzle sizes, but I DID notice a distinct "catch" in the trigger mechanism, alluding to what you said; no biggie, it was just for practice. I disassembled the brush dry before trying it out, and the needle jammed about halfway out, futzing with the trigger didn't loosen it. I finally placed the butt of the needle on my bench to press it back in, it finally came loose and split the nozzle. Never even got to use it! The Talon is working fine, trigger is "okay" but someday I'll spring for an Iwata. Again, thanks for the info, I won't be worrying about needle size so much anymore.
bro I dont know if it's said enough but your work is amazing. Just amazing. it's hard to believe it's paint. Great vid tutorial though thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I love your video skills. Beautifully shot and edited. I agree with you about the fine lines. My goto brush is the micron side feed. When I got this brush it was just liberating and it was the lower air presure i think that is the key factor. However I still find the badger sotar slim is just as good at less than half the price.
really appreciate that Ken. Thank you. I'm trying to get better with the editing! I agree with you about the micron, it's just so comfortable and accurate for detail work. Sotar is a great one too- will always be one of my favorites.
Love watching your videos! They are the most detailed and informative out of any out there… I also like how you show and use all types of airbrushes. I have watch many of your videos on everything from how to as be well as reviews. They all great and I had to subscribe…… Thank for your knowledge and experience that you share. I recently got into airbrushing and with your help have produced some nice art work in less than 2 weeks of owning an airbrush. In only 7-9 hours I’ve done 3 paintings I’ve progressively gotten better.
Thank you Mark. The most important aspect of an airbrush for me now is not how fine I can get a line down but how responsive the trigger is. I just this week picked up a Badger Sotar after seeing the reviews by both you and Rob@ Dredfx. It has given me a lot more confidence with the near immediate paint release so very pleased👍
@@theartworkshop Also picked up even more Createx Illustration paints as I think I will attempt my first portrait soon. It's so true what you say in that you can watch RUclips videos all day long but it's only through actual painting that you will truly develop. I also notice how I see things differently, always thinking about light and shadows looking at every day objects. I still struggle to make sense of the sky and clouds probably because of their absolute random nature. We are lucky to have you Mark. You give such a lot but ask for nothing👍✌️
@@maquismark5852 very nice of you to say that man. Really appreciate it. Createx illustration colors and portraits are a winning combo. Those paint really help make it easier and more forgiving. Thanks again Mark.
Thanks again for a very informative video on airbrushes. When I started painting I used gessoed masonite (non-tempered) and like you, I also worked very close and did bend needle tips on occasion. I later went to cold-pressed illustration board, which I've used since, and on occasion I will still bend a needle just touching the board. I've watched most of your videos but can't remember if you've mentioned how to repair a needle tip if you bend one. I place the needle at the angle of the tip and gently roll it over a stiff surface until the tip is back in place, and that's after several examinations until a magnifier to watch progression. Thanks again.
thanks! yeah, masonite is a great surface to work on. I used to use it a lot too. Just curious, why cold press illustration board instead of hot pressed? I always found cold pressed to be too rough for anything other traditional brushed watercolors.
@@theartworkshop I did a lot of collages with people in them, movie posters and such, so I liked the texture that cold press gave me. When doing machinery, ships, space scenes, etc. I did use hot press. Though with either board I never really achieved the photo-realistic detail that you get with gessoed canvas or board. I think it gets to the point when trying to reach that level, most people think it's a photo and not a painting when looking at it. Either way, I still consider myself a realist in style. Thanks again.
Excellent video, excellent explanations! For me its all about how consistent the airbrush is along with atomization. Beter quality airbrushes tend to atomize paint allot better. Like you I have a large selection of airbrushes and very few of them atomize the paint better than my microns. That being said until one achieves the proper skills a high end airbrush isn't going to be utilized to its full potential or perform noticeably different and certainly wont be the magic ingredient. Practice practice practice with what ya got until you cant squeeze any more out of it then upgrade. Or just buy a sotar 20/20 😁. Just my two cents.
@@theartworkshop I've thought about getting a 20/20, can't recall any bad reviews about them, mostly 5-star quality comments. It'll have to wait for a few months though as right now I've got my mind set on a new H & S 2024 Evolution.
The CM-SB is good I like it a lot but none of my Iwata are as good as the Olympos SP-B Custom, the SP-B retails for £189 or £209 for the custom version!!
You're one of the very few people I've ever seen on YT who uses an Olympos SP-B--I have one also! Like you I gave up my Iwata Micron, but after getting both the SP-B and an Olympos MP-200C at the same time--they're both superior to the Iwata. My SP-B is just the greatest detail gun and I use it all the time. Gonig to have to try this guy's "angle" spray just to see...
@@sped17373Wow a fellow Olympian! I've been been airbrushing models fit 5 years and I found out early on not all airbrushes are made equally and Iwata hasn't invited anything they just buy up good stuff and put there name on it! I started out with an H&S Infinity (absolutely terrible for models) then I tried an Iwata eclipse SBS and wow what a difference, I swore then I'd never go back to gravity and I started buying all the Iwata side feeds! My skill levels jumped 3 levels just by switching to Iwata so I started out on a quest to find the ultimate airbrush the best of the best one brush to rule them all.. Anyway I've purchased every top airbrush from every manufacturer Iwata, Badger, Creos, Rich Pen, H&S etc and then I tried Olympos.. If the airbrushes were any good I kept them if not I'd sell them on or return for refunds, the Olympos SP-B is truly AMAZING and once converted to the SP-B Custom omg it's DEFINITELY the one brush to rule them all! I've made a little RUclips review of the SP-B & SP-B Custom if you're interested, it's not great because I was having editing problems such as audio sync so I had the heavily edited it and cut out a lot of stuff.. Anyway I'm uploading again and I have just spent £500 on Iwata CM parts and I'm going to be going over the SP-B Custom and building some Iwata Olympos hybrids, basically cherry picking the best parts and putting this all together!! The CM or MP was designed for fine details but mainly line work according to the 90s Olympos catalogue, the SP-B was designed specifically for photographic touch-ups and has a finer spray pattern and FAR super atomisation in my opinion.. I also find my Iwata CM-B performs better with the Olympos L1 nozzle assembly, if you can't tell I'm autistic and once I get a bee in my bonnet I don't stop digging till I reach china. 😆 Should be better making the Olympos/Iwata hybrid video soon! 🤞
So I tried the op's style of spraying at an angle to achieve consistent hair-thin lines and it seems to work--using an MP200-C I can do a continuous super fine line of E'tac PS opaque Titanium White on a black paper card & envelope. I got similar results using Aqua Flow opaque white and Createx Illustration white but prefer my E'tac. I gotta work MUCH more with this technique as my left eye slowly heals from surgery for a detached retina...at the moment I'm still pretty much blind in that eye. It's really frustrating having zero depth perception and being all fired up about a new technique like this one here!
hi, does not the paint thickness play a role into making very fine lines despite what airbrush you are using? thicker paints even when thinned down still require higher psi to work, for example Angelus paints is one that i know and i work with. with higher psi how can you do detail close up work ?
Those little tweezers are amazing! A friend introduced me to them and it's all I use now. Just type in "small titanium tweezers" on amazon. They are sold in a 2 pack with one small and one larger one for like $6.
bro do i need to keep the infinity away during my starting stage of airbrushing ? i got the sotar 2020 and hp b plus . they are so good in trigger response . when i sit to practice i find that i just can take the infinity out of my mind ,that what should i do with it since i spend so much on in . i think i should put it away and practice on sotar and hp b plus
the infinity is a fantastic airbrush, one of the best out there. It's a great one to learn with because its so easy to break down and clean when you eventually get a clog, which happens with every airbrush from time to time. The trigger consistency and response is not for me, but it's something you get used to. My advice is to use them all! eventually you'll find the one your most comfortable with- those are all amazing airbrushes.
@@theartworkshop thanks for replying .. you are totally right .. i think i should just keep going and not letting my hopes down . thank alot for replying you are a great teacher , i watch all or your vedios multiple times and try to grasp as much as i can . (recently i downloaded the lines exercise template from the russian lady teacher Alina)
Now if I could actually put that small line where it needs to go...Even harder since I do figurines, so using my finger to guide my airbrush isn't really a thing.
"The paint is more important than the airbrush" AMEN BROTHER!
Thank you for this. Great to listen to someone telling us that it's not the tool, it's the user. So refreshing! Have subscribed on the basis of your honesty.
OK so, the eclipse cs is pretty much all you need. It has a .035 nozzle which helps move paint easier. The trick with the .35 needle is that it has a dual taper which aids in fine lines. Also, The iwata airbrushes have a higher technology air head assembly. There are 3 holes in the cap similar to the microns. No other airbrushes use more than 1 hole. This means there is no extra air pressure conversion within the gun, like there is with iwata. That is why you can use much lower pressure with an iwata. Paint reduction & quality along with a very good compressor with a holding tank is the key to success. The Eclipse is one of the best designs to ever hit the market. You can get decent lines with a cheap airbrush sometimes, but the repeatability and consistency of line pulls will not be as easy. Buy an Eclipse and a Micron and you will have a higher success rate and produce better work. And you should not ever have to replace them. I'm not bashing other airbrushes, but they do not compare. Regardless of how well they are made. Iwata is the king of atomization !
Plenty of airbrushes have more than one air hole.
@@CFster Absolutely! All of my Olympos airbrushes have three-hole heads...and as for op's claim of Iwata being the king of atomization--Olympos made the original Micron line of airbrushes and licensed the design to Iwata as Olympos stopped producing airbrushes some years ago. You can still buy them from the Olympos site in Japan as they're selling off all their old stock. I have three Olympos Microns, two MP200-C models and one MP200-B--one of those C models I bought was some $179 w/ free EMS shipping, since then prices have gone up, now a Micron C is about $489 last time I checked. Anyway, the point is the paint atomization of my Olympos airbrushes is every bit as good if not better than any Iwatas (including a CM-C Micron) I've owned in my 44+ years of airbrushing. Wait, I meant this reply for the op and his comment about atomization, not you--my apologies!
Thank you so much, in all your videos, for explaining the WHY of things, not just saying, here's a tip. Understanding why something happens a certain way helps to adopt the action correctly. I have learned so much from your videos as I am just starting in airbrushing. Your work is absolutely beautiful.
really appreciate the kind words. glad you're enjoying the videos.Thank you so much!
i just bought one of those cheapo cordless rechargeable airbrush/compressors off amazon and I was shocked at how well it works. here i never got into it because I didn't want to spend money and this thing works as well as I ever imagined a wicked expensive setup would and I can go take it in the grass and use it w/out any mess or ventilation issues.
Great information, I really appreciate your unbiased information, and I love your tutorials, keep up the great work!
thanks so much!
This was an eye-opener for me, thank you!
I still have my half-century-old Paasche "H" siphon-feed brush, but wanted to try these newer gravity feed designs. I bought a Paasche "Talon" but, while on Amazoid, saw a "Timbertech" on sale for $21, so bought it too as a "practice" brush. I was pretty amazed at the "apparent" quality; smooth joints, excellent chrome work, three cup sizes that were machined/threaded perfectly, 3 needle/nozzle sizes, but I DID notice a distinct "catch" in the trigger mechanism, alluding to what you said; no biggie, it was just for practice.
I disassembled the brush dry before trying it out, and the needle jammed about halfway out, futzing with the trigger didn't loosen it. I finally placed the butt of the needle on my bench to press it back in, it finally came loose and split the nozzle. Never even got to use it!
The Talon is working fine, trigger is "okay" but someday I'll spring for an Iwata. Again, thanks for the info, I won't be worrying about needle size so much anymore.
i really like the paache talon. it's a great airbrush at a very good price.
bro I dont know if it's said enough but your work is amazing. Just amazing. it's hard to believe it's paint. Great vid tutorial though thank you for sharing your knowledge!
hey man thanks so much. I really appreciate it!
I love your video skills. Beautifully shot and edited.
I agree with you about the fine lines.
My goto brush is the micron side feed. When I got this brush it was just liberating and it was the lower air presure i think that is the key factor.
However I still find the badger sotar slim is just as good at less than half the price.
really appreciate that Ken. Thank you. I'm trying to get better with the editing! I agree with you about the micron, it's just so comfortable and accurate for detail work. Sotar is a great one too- will always be one of my favorites.
Love watching your videos! They are the most detailed and informative out of any out there… I also like how you show and use all types of airbrushes. I have watch many of your videos on everything from how to as be well as reviews. They all great and I had to subscribe…… Thank for your knowledge and experience that you share. I recently got into airbrushing and with your help have produced some nice art work in less than 2 weeks of owning an airbrush. In only 7-9 hours I’ve done 3 paintings I’ve progressively gotten better.
awesome! happy to hear that
Thank you Mark. The most important aspect of an airbrush for me now is not how fine I can get a line down but how responsive the trigger is. I just this week picked up a Badger Sotar after seeing the reviews by both you and Rob@ Dredfx. It has given me a lot more confidence with the near immediate paint release so very pleased👍
me too! responsiveness is everything for me. Awesome airbrush that sotar- great choice Mark. It's just so responsive
@@theartworkshop Also picked up even more Createx Illustration paints as I think I will attempt my first portrait soon.
It's so true what you say in that you can watch RUclips videos all day long but it's only through actual painting that you will truly develop.
I also notice how I see things differently, always thinking about light and shadows looking at every day objects. I still struggle to make sense of the sky and clouds probably because of their absolute random nature.
We are lucky to have you Mark. You give such a lot but ask for nothing👍✌️
@@maquismark5852 very nice of you to say that man. Really appreciate it. Createx illustration colors and portraits are a winning combo. Those paint really help make it easier and more forgiving. Thanks again Mark.
What a great video! No bs, only information. Thank you so much.
I appreciate that- thanks so much!
Wow. Thats nice fine lineing.
Great video and great lesson
Thanks again for a very informative video on airbrushes. When I started painting I used gessoed masonite (non-tempered) and like you, I also worked very close and did bend needle tips on occasion. I later went to cold-pressed illustration board, which I've used since, and on occasion I will still bend a needle just touching the board. I've watched most of your videos but can't remember if you've mentioned how to repair a needle tip if you bend one. I place the needle at the angle of the tip and gently roll it over a stiff surface until the tip is back in place, and that's after several examinations until a magnifier to watch progression. Thanks again.
thanks! yeah, masonite is a great surface to work on. I used to use it a lot too. Just curious, why cold press illustration board instead of hot pressed? I always found cold pressed to be too rough for anything other traditional brushed watercolors.
@@theartworkshop I did a lot of collages with people in them, movie posters and such, so I liked the texture that cold press gave me. When doing machinery, ships, space scenes, etc. I did use hot press. Though with either board I never really achieved the photo-realistic detail that you get with gessoed canvas or board. I think it gets to the point when trying to reach that level, most people think it's a photo and not a painting when looking at it. Either way, I still consider myself a realist in style. Thanks again.
@@johncollado1151 I have to agree with you on the photorealistic comment. well said, and i think you are quite right about that.
Hi thank you for the video. What would you recommend to make spot repairs on cars, how can I reduce solvent paint. Thank you for the opinions.
Just wow. I have got to try distilled water. I am unfamiliar with Createx paint, is that paint acrylic?
yes, it's a water based acrylic. Water can only be used for water based paints.
Thanks for the tips! Hat’s off to you sir!
This is truly helpful! Thank you so much!!!
I paint miniatures, but this video is still quite userful. thanks!
Wonderful video. Love the insight and very informative details offered!
Wow. Fantastic video. Thank you.
love the indepth explanation 👍
thanks!
Very good lesson. Thank you.
Excellent video, excellent explanations! For me its all about how consistent the airbrush is along with atomization. Beter quality airbrushes tend to atomize paint allot better. Like you I have a large selection of airbrushes and very few of them atomize the paint better than my microns. That being said until one achieves the proper skills a high end airbrush isn't going to be utilized to its full potential or perform noticeably different and certainly wont be the magic ingredient. Practice practice practice with what ya got until you cant squeeze any more out of it then upgrade. Or just buy a sotar 20/20 😁. Just my two cents.
excellent! 100% agree with everything said here. could not have said it any better. And agreed about the sotar- a legendary airbrush.
@@theartworkshop I've thought about getting a 20/20, can't recall any bad reviews about them, mostly 5-star quality comments. It'll have to wait for a few months though as right now I've got my mind set on a new H & S 2024 Evolution.
Great as all your information and demonstrations
Appreciate that- thanks!
The CM-SB is good I like it a lot but none of my Iwata are as good as the Olympos SP-B Custom, the SP-B retails for £189 or £209 for the custom version!!
You're one of the very few people I've ever seen on YT who uses an Olympos SP-B--I have one also! Like you I gave up my Iwata Micron, but after getting both the SP-B and an Olympos MP-200C at the same time--they're both superior to the Iwata. My SP-B is just the greatest detail gun and I use it all the time. Gonig to have to try this guy's "angle" spray just to see...
@@sped17373Wow a fellow Olympian! I've been been airbrushing models fit 5 years and I found out early on not all airbrushes are made equally and Iwata hasn't invited anything they just buy up good stuff and put there name on it!
I started out with an H&S Infinity (absolutely terrible for models) then I tried an Iwata eclipse SBS and wow what a difference, I swore then I'd never go back to gravity and I started buying all the Iwata side feeds!
My skill levels jumped 3 levels just by switching to Iwata so I started out on a quest to find the ultimate airbrush the best of the best one brush to rule them all..
Anyway I've purchased every top airbrush from every manufacturer Iwata, Badger, Creos, Rich Pen, H&S etc and then I tried Olympos..
If the airbrushes were any good I kept them if not I'd sell them on or return for refunds, the Olympos SP-B is truly AMAZING and once converted to the SP-B Custom omg it's DEFINITELY the one brush to rule them all!
I've made a little RUclips review of the SP-B & SP-B Custom if you're interested, it's not great because I was having editing problems such as audio sync so I had the heavily edited it and cut out a lot of stuff.. Anyway I'm uploading again and I have just spent £500 on Iwata CM parts and I'm going to be going over the SP-B Custom and building some Iwata Olympos hybrids, basically cherry picking the best parts and putting this all together!!
The CM or MP was designed for fine details but mainly line work according to the 90s Olympos catalogue, the SP-B was designed specifically for photographic touch-ups and has a finer spray pattern and FAR super atomisation in my opinion.. I also find my Iwata CM-B performs better with the Olympos L1 nozzle assembly, if you can't tell I'm autistic and once I get a bee in my bonnet I don't stop digging till I reach china. 😆
Should be better making the Olympos/Iwata hybrid video soon! 🤞
So I tried the op's style of spraying at an angle to achieve consistent hair-thin lines and it seems to work--using an MP200-C I can do a continuous super fine line of E'tac PS opaque Titanium White on a black paper card & envelope. I got similar results using Aqua Flow opaque white and Createx Illustration white but prefer my E'tac. I gotta work MUCH more with this technique as my left eye slowly heals from surgery for a detached retina...at the moment I'm still pretty much blind in that eye. It's really frustrating having zero depth perception and being all fired up about a new technique like this one here!
hi, does not the paint thickness play a role into making very fine lines despite what airbrush you are using? thicker paints even when thinned down still require higher psi to work, for example Angelus paints is one that i know and i work with. with higher psi how can you do detail close up work ?
Thank you!
Where do I get the tweezer? It's hard to find good small ones
Those little tweezers are amazing! A friend introduced me to them and it's all I use now. Just type in "small titanium tweezers" on amazon. They are sold in a 2 pack with one small and one larger one for like $6.
@@theartworkshop Thanks!
Very interesting, thanks....
Super Video vielen lieben Dank 😊
You rock!
bro do i need to keep the infinity away during my starting stage of airbrushing ? i got the sotar 2020 and hp b plus . they are so good in trigger response . when i sit to practice i find that i just can take the infinity out of my mind ,that what should i do with it since i spend so much on in .
i think i should put it away and practice on sotar and hp b plus
the infinity is a fantastic airbrush, one of the best out there. It's a great one to learn with because its so easy to break down and clean when you eventually get a clog, which happens with every airbrush from time to time. The trigger consistency and response is not for me, but it's something you get used to. My advice is to use them all! eventually you'll find the one your most comfortable with- those are all amazing airbrushes.
@@theartworkshop thanks for replying .. you are totally right .. i think i should just keep going and not letting my hopes down .
thank alot for replying you are a great teacher , i watch all or your vedios multiple times and try to grasp as much as i can . (recently i downloaded the lines exercise template from the russian lady teacher Alina)
Now if I could actually put that small line where it needs to go...Even harder since I do figurines, so using my finger to guide my airbrush isn't really a thing.
Sketching caps help a lot
👍👍👍👍👍
👍👍