What is Straight Razor Regrinding
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This video discusses the process of regrinding a vintage straight razor, along with identifying problems that a regrind can solve
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Very informative video Brad...great work!. Love the before and after shots.
Great video
Hi`Most appreciated`As you are not showing the use of wet wheels how do you not turn the steal blue at the end on the cutting edge where the steal is most prone to absorbing the heat,
Awesome!
Thanks from Texas.
Wow such a job!
Awesome work. keep the good work
Great video! Keep it up , man!!
Excellent work!
Thanks for the video, it was very informative.
Spine wear can be prevented by taping the spine when honing. I use electricians tape. It does not foul the stone, wears very slowly, and protects the spine.
I did that for a long time but all the sudden, after years with the razor, the shave became a bit rougher. I watched some videos and checked the angle of the razor. It was just over 20 degrees. Because the spine never thinned but the edge slowly crept back it eventually became steeper. I then thinned the spine a bit and brought it back down to 15 degrees and it shaved beautifully again.
Kapton tape is thinner and more durable than electrical tape. Kapton tape is expensive name brand made by 3m and polyamide tape is generic name, it’s used for electronics. Generic brands are cheap , some ya have to avoid but can easily be found on eBay n Amazon. It’s generally 3x thinner than electrical tape; though you can buy thicker mils and tougher, more durable than electrical tape and doesn’t leave that awful residue that old cheap electrical tape does after it’s been in your toolbox in bed of truck or out in field of work area getting hot n beat down by the sun in midsummer that you ought to just throw in the trash because the adhesive melted and now it gets on everything especially your hands n fingers. Haha And it’s even better about not clogging up your stones n has more glide or less friction while honing compared to electrical.
Yea it’s a total PITA when you have to isolate the spine n hone the spine only so you can get a good shave. But so is stacking layers of tape bc you took too much metal off the spine to try and correct geometry problem with bad uneven spine/grind/warped blade that seems to be a typical problem of all my solingen German straight razors. Word of advice don’t attempt to emulate everything you see on RUclips videos bc the guy seems to know everything about honing n correcting geometry problems with straight razors ; they don’t always tell you the consequences of those actions in an attempt to “fix” a “problem” when all that was really necessary was to become better at the rolling x-stroke for face-side of razor and reg x-stroke for other side of razor. They failed to mention on RUclips video that while you might get a great initial shave; Some metals of some full/exxtra hollows won’t hold a 14.5 degree angle for more than 3 shaves before it microchips but then again I’ve read or heard this razor company is known for that also even if it is stainless steel! 😢😢. Plus the likelihood of exacerbating the frown along edge that most have from factory because warp is still there, even though spine is more square. But I’ve “sense” since got an economical micrometer to accurately figure out bevel angle to correct my mistake of which I knew it would make a more acutely bevel angle just didn’t expect the headache of a newer blade that used to give me 12+ shaves before a refresh on the stones. Plus I probably added 10+ years of spinewear or took away however you want to quantify it. What was hardly no spineware like less than 0.25mm to 1.5-2mm 😢. Live n learn I guess
High, Great info
Be for we all start to regrind our vintage razors on our home made grinding wheels how do you stop the metal from going blue ,and ruin the razor for good
15-20 seconds of grind following by dip in ice water. Do all grinding bare handed so you have a gauge on how hot the steel is. As soon as it is uncomfortable to touch, you must cool it!!
Good stuff 👍
Great work.
Is it possible to fix hone wear?
wow, thats awesome, how much do you typically charge for a rehone/sharpening?
I have a few antique blades with very uneven hone wear from people flicking their wrists to look cool, but wearing the spine at the tip. I don't have a large 2X72" grinder, so is it advisable to just grind the spine to even the wear equally along its full length? Looks don't concern me much as these are for shaving. I'm thinking of just grinding the spine back so it's all equally flat then maybe rounding the hard edges by hand. I have very flat wedges and full hollows all with this problem
It’s more likely the owners or honers of those antique straights honed on more narrow stones than those that are common today ( 1.5” might’ve Ben considered wide enough or to expensive ) ;so it was necessary for them to hone w blade at strong angles with only 1/3 of spine at the toe or tip on the stone ( blade almost parallel to the stones length axis) rather than being perpendicular to the stone. Anthony Esposito aka the Italian stallion has RUclips videos of him honing straight razors this way to give a better visual. There’s also the camp theory that this is better overall in general bc less steel on the stone, less friction, less wear to standard size modern synthetic stones, so stone lasts longer and it sometimes overcomes or simplifies certain geometry issues w straight razors; uneven grinds, warps, uneven spines. Maybe the x-stroke or rolling x-stroke hadn’t been invented yet or wasn’t common knowledge back then lol. Maybe they honed that way to avoid honing a frown into edge.
Yea I’ve experienced this same dilemma with uneven spines on antique straights. It’s a pain to try to wipe away the steel along spine to even out the wear. You can’t always see the wear in pictures when buying these antique blades on the flea bay. I know I couldn’t tell with the oxidation n rust on mine plus I was relatively new to everything w straight razors. Diamond plates make this easier. It’s not necessary to even the wear for aesthetics but it might be if it’s preventing you from achieving a truly shave ready edge. It took me awhile to figure this out with my first antique wade n butcher on flea bay. By the time I got smart n got a micrometer to figure out edge angles n watching/emulating several RUclips videos n several honing attempts n painfully tugging shaves; I finally got the damn thing to shave decent but now it has twice the honewear to spine than it originally had when I first purchased it. I believe is 1/4- 1/2 hollow leaning towards half. I paid too much for the turd but it was a great way to learn the hard way of diagnosing problems n ways to bypass other common issues learning about straights to become a better honer with a crappy beater so I don’t mess up my new expensive straights. But its shave angle is 20ish *degrees. You could try using tape, I know that’s what a lot of people do w wedges but that’s with even and little to no honeware on spine. Rolling x-stroke is your friend when honing those smiling wedges.
Great video! What radius wheel for a 1/4 hollow? When you do a regrind do you thin the tang also?
Do you use calipers as you grind to ensure that the grind is perfectly even?
Do you have links or tips to help find manufacturing dates or time frames on antique razors, I have a couple I'm curious about mainly an old Boker where the tree is unusual and doesn't exactly match anything I've seen. I have another Boker King Cutter where I'd like to keep the gold on the blade but it has a lot of patina/staining that I'd like to clean up... help
What do you consider to be very little money for a shefield or wade and butcher wedge?
That's so awesome.