Great job! You're going a little bit further than I did not even a year ago while restorying mine. It wasn't as gunked up, I left the rivets alone and the casters were in great condition. Love your attention to detail, thoroughness and ability to capture it on camera!
The 162C is slightly larger than the 166N. The 162C is designed with deeper trays so that they can be fitted with the Hazet tool modules. The 162 also has a wooden replaceable top, while the 166 has a rubber mat.
About the casters. In these old one the bearings are adjustable. You can take up slag by tightening the bushing-halfs. I've done it with washers. But i would think you can easily tighten up the bold. The tires are real rubber. If you want to put the time in it you can rebuild them, by removing the destroyed rubber on a lathe with a grinding disk and then add new rubber. I didn't repair this exact tire type but similar full rubber tires this way. But similar by grinding back the surface and adding new rubber from a car tire (bicycle could also work) with tire repair sets (the vulcanising fluid). But it's not easy to do and don't look nice in the end if you didn't do everything right the first time. And you have to use a lot of pressure, to hold everything together until it all cured. I used big cable clamps. Then about the bolt with the big head. I think it's an replacement, the original has fallen off and someone replaced it. The others are low-strength bolts, easy to identify with the indent in the bolt head. The hole you mentioned is for reducing material, the bushing is diecast at least with a three part mold. The extended part is to stabilize the hole for the locking bolt.
Thanks for all the information on the casters. I probably will just order the modern replacements since this particular model is not terribly old. I'll keep the old ones in case I decide to refurb them in the future. The rubber on the big ones was sort of deformed, kind of like it was sitting in one spot for years when a lot of weight on it.
German Tool Reviews...check out this! If the size fits, use the rubber tire with your rim. Cheaper then spare parts and more original. www.blickle.us.com/en-us/product/VPP-125-12G-323584
Excellent job as we have all come to expect from you! I am considering a few of these for our workshop. It seems the offerings from the domestic tool companies are bulky and less efficient. Please share any details that you may have learned about the latest trolleys from Hazet. One of our vendors is currently offering the 166C and 166N models. I'm not sure how many of these Hazet offers and what the differences may be. Thanks for being one of my favorite channels on You Tube.
Thanks, I really do appreciate the kind words. I will be sure to do a full review on the 166N once the restoration is complete as this model is almost exactly the same as the model that is sold by Hazet today. The 166C is a slightly larger model that was made specifically to house the Hazet Tool modules for their larger tool trolleys. There is a also a mini version but I don't know too much about that model.
you should have had the wheel shaved down a bit. . as a classic vw mechanic i am always happy to reuse the old original parts if possible. I am always unhappy with new replacements.
Ok here we go... The holes in the bottom have a very simple explanation- in case water comes in or other fluids might spill- that´s the way out for both of them. The big bolt on the wheel top is not original, must have been a replacement for a broken original. This happens frequently, when some fat dork is abusing the trolley as a seat or stepstone. The "caddy" logo comes off a german VW model , a pickup based on a rabbit platform. Not original. Some of the mechanical parts of the locking mechanism and the rubber bumper cover are still available. Mechanism compartments are made of Zinc or Alloy and are likely to break. Concerning spare parts in general: It´s almost impossible to get the stuff, even if you live in Germany and are a native speaker. Y ou´ll need a dealer ,willing to contact the company and asking for stuff. I got my rubber liners for free that way. Still, most of it is on stock and available, you just need a lot of time and energy to spend Unfortunately, the "Continental" tires aren´t on stock any more , but you can get some NOS from time to time The Asistent you got there makes an excellent base for a restoration, I´ve had some that were much worse in the beginning, but it´s worth it...
Great job! You're going a little bit further than I did not even a year ago while restorying mine. It wasn't as gunked up, I left the rivets alone and the casters were in great condition.
Love your attention to detail, thoroughness and ability to capture it on camera!
I didn't realize they were that complicated as well. love the level of detail you are going into. awesome job!!
Thanks!
I was going to ask, what's the difference between a 162c and a 166n?
The 162C is slightly larger than the 166N. The 162C is designed with deeper trays so that they can be fitted with the Hazet tool modules. The 162 also has a wooden replaceable top, while the 166 has a rubber mat.
Did you use a drill press for the rivets?
Just a hand drill for the rivets.
So looking forward to this
project.
Yeah I'm having too much fun with this. Sort of strange how I couldn't find any other RUclips video on a teardown of one of these assistents.
How did you disassemble the continental wheels - how did you separate the hub from the rubber?
Nice job on the tear down. Are those Gedore punches you are using? They look like they perform well.
Yeah the blue ones are my go to punches, they have been working out well. They have a really long neck which helps to drive really long roll pins.
Cool. I'll have to check them out. Thx!
About the casters.
In these old one the bearings are adjustable. You can take up slag by tightening the bushing-halfs. I've done it with washers. But i would think you can easily tighten up the bold.
The tires are real rubber. If you want to put the time in it you can rebuild them, by removing the destroyed rubber on a lathe with a grinding disk and then add new rubber. I didn't repair this exact tire type but similar full rubber tires this way. But similar by grinding back the surface and adding new rubber from a car tire (bicycle could also work) with tire repair sets (the vulcanising fluid). But it's not easy to do and don't look nice in the end if you didn't do everything right the first time. And you have to use a lot of pressure, to hold everything together until it all cured. I used big cable clamps.
Then about the bolt with the big head. I think it's an replacement, the original has fallen off and someone replaced it. The others are low-strength bolts, easy to identify with the indent in the bolt head.
The hole you mentioned is for reducing material, the bushing is diecast at least with a three part mold. The extended part is to stabilize the hole for the locking bolt.
Thanks for all the information on the casters. I probably will just order the modern replacements since this particular model is not terribly old. I'll keep the old ones in case I decide to refurb them in the future. The rubber on the big ones was sort of deformed, kind of like it was sitting in one spot for years when a lot of weight on it.
German Tool Reviews...check out this! If the size fits, use the rubber tire with your rim.
Cheaper then spare parts and more original.
www.blickle.us.com/en-us/product/VPP-125-12G-323584
Any suggestions for replacing the casters that have been discontinued?
Excellent job as we have all come to expect from you!
I am considering a few of these for our workshop. It seems the offerings from the domestic tool companies are bulky and less efficient. Please share any details that you may have learned about the latest trolleys from Hazet. One of our vendors is currently offering the 166C and 166N models. I'm not sure how many of these Hazet offers and what the differences may be.
Thanks for being one of my favorite channels on You Tube.
Thanks, I really do appreciate the kind words. I will be sure to do a full review on the 166N once the restoration is complete as this model is almost exactly the same as the model that is sold by Hazet today. The 166C is a slightly larger model that was made specifically to house the Hazet Tool modules for their larger tool trolleys. There is a also a mini version but I don't know too much about that model.
The CADDY badge is from a Volkswagen Caddy pickup mk 1.
you should have had the wheel shaved down a bit. . as a classic vw mechanic i am always happy to reuse the old original parts if possible. I am always unhappy with new replacements.
Ok here we go...
The holes in the bottom have a very simple explanation- in case water comes in or other fluids might spill- that´s the way out for both of them.
The big bolt on the wheel top is not original, must have been a replacement for a broken original.
This happens frequently, when some fat dork is abusing the trolley as a seat or stepstone.
The "caddy" logo comes off a german VW model , a pickup based on a rabbit platform. Not original.
Some of the mechanical parts of the locking mechanism and the rubber bumper cover are still available. Mechanism compartments are made of Zinc or Alloy and are likely to break.
Concerning spare parts in general:
It´s almost impossible to get the stuff, even if you live in Germany and are a native speaker. Y
ou´ll need a dealer ,willing to contact the company and asking for stuff.
I got my rubber liners for free that way.
Still, most of it is on stock and available, you just need a lot of time and energy to spend
Unfortunately, the "Continental" tires aren´t on stock any more , but you can get some NOS from time to time
The Asistent you got there makes an excellent base for a restoration, I´ve had some that were much worse in the beginning, but it´s worth it...
Why not just use it like it it?
There were some issues with the wheels, had some cracked pieces and just needed a general cleaning. Plus I like to take stuff apart.