Thanks for the info. I'm in Louisiana (summer 2023) and I was beginning to think I really had a major electrical issue. thanks to this video, I now know, it really is just tooo hot. My major issue is that last year my awning was damaged, by tree limbs that the park owner neglected to have removed after I notified them of the danger. I have systematically tested every electrical item, and I don't use the heavy pull items (washer/dryer, microwave, etc) during the lava hot hours. I use only LED bulbs, I use propane for cooking and water heater and I shut off everything not needed, but still, I can't run my Central AC. I have a small window unit in bedroom (plugged into the parks "hook-up" box outside). It is getting over worked. I've got 3 dogs and I have the same concern about leaving them home alone. Can't trust that the breaker won't flip off while I'm gone. It's just nice to know, it's not just me having these issues in this horrible weather. My fifth wheel has had electrical issues in this RV park, and so has everyone here that I've talked too. So in addition to checking on your electrical equipment, check the RV parks set-up and get a RV surge protector for your hook up, and there are "testers" available so you can save time by finding out its not your issue, it's the RV park and dirty electricity causing your issues.
You are so very right. Parks occasionaly have horrible connections. I recommend to anyone to get a surge protector that will not allow electircal connection if the pedistal is not wired correctly or volatges drop.
Thank you for the video. It really clears up a lot of us. But when you were talking about the 30 amp switch tripping, were you talking about the 30 amp switch in the rv or the 30 amp switch at the rv electrical hook up box at the campground? It's the outside electrical 30 amp switch that keeps tripping for us today. I love the tips about turn off what you aren't using.
My furnace has stopped coming on under 80 even though its much colder than 65 which is what I keep the thermostat on. In between when the furnace is set so it will turn itself on the breaker box buzzes. It stops when the furnace is on. Super confused. We are in Maine.
The furnace is 12 volt. That being said, the buzzing could be coming from the fuse. For the on/off of the furnace, it comes from the controls of the thermostat which also runs off 12 volt. Try removing the fuses and replace them. If you do not have fuses, try pulling them out for both the furnace and thermostat and put them back in after a few seconds. Hope this works. Let me know.
@@HowToRV we have fuses for (what they labeled it anyway) 1. Bedroom 2 Bath 3 Kit 4 LR 5 SO (not sure what the heck that is) 6 Furn then there are three different but in line fuses the guide says 1 Acc Tv 2 acc Tank 3 acc Pump I see the furnace one but I dont know which one is the thermostat. Honestly it makes sense its something up with the thermostat being it use to come on at under 65 just fine. Now it needs to be 85 and I know its way colder than 85. Ill make a quick video and see if that helps.
Something else to check is your battery voltage. Even though this could be a little harder to check, if the battery voltage drops to low, everything that relies on 12volts to run starts to act all kinds of wonky.
@@HowToRV Honestly the battery itself is confusing. So we bought this Evermaxx walmart battery a 29dc battery and we have had to exchange multiple times. This one at least recharges. The others they tested and said it needed to be replaced. We are plugged into our meter and most of the time it stays charged just fine but say there is a power outage for even a couple of minutes it drains the battery and doesnt want to charge it back up to the same level. Now with this one that will charge, if we take it to Walmart to test why its doing this, we think because we are using the water pump more its draining it faster than it can charge so it loses power easily? My plan is to replace with an ac pump instead of the 12 volt pump we have. Still we supposedly have good battery power and its doing this. I made a video showing my panel I think it posted. I dont see a spot for thermostat just furnace.
Please watch these 2 videos. ruclips.net/video/n_v7QkFzNds/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/PgciDMnMZDUI/видео.html think that it will help. Also, I tell everyone that if you are not experienced or comfortable around electrical to hire someone who is.
I have a 2014 Salem Forrest River try. Just this year the AC breaker has started blowing, never had the problem in the past. Mech said I need to put the AC on it own separate breaker… my concern is that it did not come from the manufacture that way so why now does it need it’s own superset breaker? Any help would be useful, thanks.
I would start with asking a technician to check the AC. If the refrigerant is getting low, the AC will start to draw higher amps. Upside is this may be your problem. Downside is that the AC on RVs are not rechargeable. I would not start requiring the camper. That is a bad bad recommendation. You can also ask an electrician to check your loads compared to what your AC manufacturer says it should be. If your pulling higher amps that what the manufacturer states then most likely your looking a new AC. The recommendation to reword is just a work around and not safe. Hope this helps. I would love to hear what you find out.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to your comment. I had something set up wrong and was not getting the notifications. Thanks for watching. Was there anything here that was of anyhelp?
i ended up beefing mine up to a 50 amp system, and my A/C had a hard time keeping up in the Texas summer Heat so i added a mini split also. just to add to your Video here that might be an easy quick fix for you is to think about adding a soft start to your A/c to reduce the Amp draw for start up
@@HowToRV i was thinking to completely replace the power center, however i made it easier on myself and just added a new panel under the bunks and kept the original panel intact just in turn making it a sub panel from my new 50 amp panel. doing it this way allowed me to wire my new AC, panel&plug without having the power down for very long. still a work in-progress
Cody Manski cool way to go at it. I like the sub panel idea. That way you don’t have to worry about buying a whole new panel with a 50amp bus. Good stuff
I had the same problem this fall, except substitute electric fireplace for AC. The fireplace, microwave, and water heater can't all be on at the same time. Thankfully our fridge is the new 12v only design so that wasn't in the mix. Also I have a hardwired surge protector/EMS that I installed, which has a display on it for amps, volts, frequency, and any error codes.
I would love to hear how the 12V fridge has worked over time. Even in different temperatures. I was in a rush to get a surge protector when we go our. When ever we get a new camper, I want to install the hardwired one. Less to have to manage and the additional readout display. Good stuff.
My AC will run great until the outside temperature gets to around 100 F. Then it kicks off the breaker and will not stay on after wards no matter if nothing else is running. I'm a 62 yr old woman on SSD and it's my first time to have a camper. Also cannot afford to call an electrician to come out. This is my home. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Carolyn Cunningham If you have vents on the ac cover, I would open them so that it can blow cold air staring into your camper instead of through the ducts. Also can check to see if your filter is clean. If all vents are completely open and filter is clean and your still pulling high amps, it may mean that you are low on refrigerant. This would mean that you would unfortunately have to find a way to get a technician to look at it. I am no expert but I do know that high amps means that the compressor that is the primary component of making cold air is working to hard. If you have any contacts with someone who is an electrician I would have them check the electrical load that the ac is pulling. I also have a video coming out Sunday to help explain that very thing.
I have everything turned off in my rv and it trips breaker on my house so I bought a 9000w generator and it kills my generator right when I plug it so im wondering if something is wrong
Sorry to hear that you are having that problem. I am no expert but i would turn off all of my breakers in the RV, plug the camper back in to the house, start with the camper main breaker and one by one turn them back on. When you trip the breaker in the house, this will be the culprit. Must be careful. do not try this to many times. It is faulting for a reason that seems fairly major. Take the RV to a dealer to get looked over if you cant figure it out fairly quick.
My trailer is currently plugged into a house… 15 a male to a 30 a female. the house plug keeps tripping with my ac.. does anybody know is my trailer doing that or is the house plug not enough to power my trailer ac.. ?
I think that your AC is overloading the house. Check out this video, it may help explain a little about how muc power you are using and where it is coming from.
I’ve had this happen recently.. it tripped my breaker but I also smelt smoke. When I pulled my electrical panel off everything looked good tho.. has anyone had this happen?
I have a. 06 fleetwood pull camper the fuses in side are fine not triping so far but the braker in power source out side you plug into the 20 amp braker keeps throwing im not sure but belive that the braker is bad can you help me with my issue
Most RVs are 30 amp. This means that if you are plugged into a 20 amp source, you will trip that breaker before the RV ever would. When i installed my power source at home, i consulted an electrician to have a breaker wired to a box and all of it is 30 amp ready and safe. Hope this helps.
It isn't the fuses in my camper or breaker's its its braker at camp ground the 30 amp braker and before it started all this my refrigerator. Was working fine it keep on trowing out on pole. The 30amp braket that supplies eletric to my cord that gives me eletric inside
@@annettegirault525 Sounds like its an issue that need to be brought up with campground. If you are not already, please make sure that you are using a surge protector
i would ask the park if there is something wrong with the outside breaker. Usually, the breaker inside the RV will trip first there is a problem on your end
I'm in FL & it's 31 degrees. my phone is charging...but no heater. Small space heater. Totally unhelpful. Not you...just not what's going on. I had no problem running the much larger AC, lights, fridge & never tripped the breaker. using so much less now, makes no sense. I'm freezing, thank you♥️♥️🌎🌎
If you are talking about the propane furnace, then it is the 12v system. There are many factors that could play into the furnace not working. I do not have much experience with them. I would start by checking the 12v fuses and propane supply. Outside of that, get tech to look at it. If you want to give me your approx location in Florida I can see if I know anyone in that location that may be able to help. Send me an email and I will see if we can get you back online. Being cold is no fun at all.
Thanks for the info. I'm in Louisiana (summer 2023) and I was beginning to think I really had a major electrical issue. thanks to this video, I now know, it really is just tooo hot. My major issue is that last year my awning was damaged, by tree limbs that the park owner neglected to have removed after I notified them of the danger. I have systematically tested every electrical item, and I don't use the heavy pull items (washer/dryer, microwave, etc) during the lava hot hours. I use only LED bulbs, I use propane for cooking and water heater and I shut off everything not needed, but still, I can't run my Central AC. I have a small window unit in bedroom (plugged into the parks "hook-up" box outside). It is getting over worked. I've got 3 dogs and I have the same concern about leaving them home alone. Can't trust that the breaker won't flip off while I'm gone. It's just nice to know, it's not just me having these issues in this horrible weather. My fifth wheel has had electrical issues in this RV park, and so has everyone here that I've talked too. So in addition to checking on your electrical equipment, check the RV parks set-up and get a RV surge protector for your hook up, and there are "testers" available so you can save time by finding out its not your issue, it's the RV park and dirty electricity causing your issues.
You are so very right. Parks occasionaly have horrible connections. I recommend to anyone to get a surge protector that will not allow electircal connection if the pedistal is not wired correctly or volatges drop.
Thank you for the video. It really clears up a lot of us. But when you were talking about the 30 amp switch tripping, were you talking about the 30 amp switch in the rv or the 30 amp switch at the rv electrical hook up box at the campground? It's the outside electrical 30 amp switch that keeps tripping for us today. I love the tips about turn off what you aren't using.
I was refering to the RV itself. I had had issues at campgrounds before and it is their responsibility to resolve.
Awesome thank you for all the information it was great!!!
Your welcome and hope that the information was useful
Great job
I really appreciate the feedback
I like your channel thank you
Thank you all for watching and hope this information was helpfull
👍
Hey thanks, had to much running and was blowing 30 amp breaker
DroneDelirium before really understanding my electrical system, I thought my RV was messed up. Glad you enjoyed it.
i wish i knew your channel when i was an all season camper,great useful information,Awesome video thanks for sharing this was great👍💜
Glad it was helpful!
My furnace has stopped coming on under 80 even though its much colder than 65 which is what I keep the thermostat on. In between when the furnace is set so it will turn itself on the breaker box buzzes. It stops when the furnace is on. Super confused. We are in Maine.
The furnace is 12 volt. That being said, the buzzing could be coming from the fuse. For the on/off of the furnace, it comes from the controls of the thermostat which also runs off 12 volt. Try removing the fuses and replace them. If you do not have fuses, try pulling them out for both the furnace and thermostat and put them back in after a few seconds. Hope this works. Let me know.
@@HowToRV we have fuses for (what they labeled it anyway) 1. Bedroom 2 Bath 3 Kit 4 LR 5 SO (not sure what the heck that is) 6 Furn then there are three different but in line fuses the guide says 1 Acc Tv 2 acc Tank 3 acc Pump
I see the furnace one but I dont know which one is the thermostat. Honestly it makes sense its something up with the thermostat being it use to come on at under 65 just fine. Now it needs to be 85 and I know its way colder than 85. Ill make a quick video and see if that helps.
Something else to check is your battery voltage. Even though this could be a little harder to check, if the battery voltage drops to low, everything that relies on 12volts to run starts to act all kinds of wonky.
@@HowToRV Honestly the battery itself is confusing. So we bought this Evermaxx walmart battery a 29dc battery and we have had to exchange multiple times. This one at least recharges. The others they tested and said it needed to be replaced. We are plugged into our meter and most of the time it stays charged just fine but say there is a power outage for even a couple of minutes it drains the battery and doesnt want to charge it back up to the same level. Now with this one that will charge, if we take it to Walmart to test why its doing this, we think because we are using the water pump more its draining it faster than it can charge so it loses power easily? My plan is to replace with an ac pump instead of the 12 volt pump we have. Still we supposedly have good battery power and its doing this. I made a video showing my panel I think it posted. I dont see a spot for thermostat just furnace.
@@HowToRV I was wrong it is saying it will be a while until it uploads... lol
Thanks for the helpful information!
Your welcome and hope that the information was useful
Thank you so much. Now i know why ours tripped. I want to get a back up 30 amp main circuit breaker. Not sure how to change it though.
Please watch these 2 videos. ruclips.net/video/n_v7QkFzNds/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/PgciDMnMZDUI/видео.html think that it will help. Also, I tell everyone that if you are not experienced or comfortable around electrical to hire someone who is.
I have a 2014 Salem Forrest River try. Just this year the AC breaker has started blowing, never had the problem in the past. Mech said I need to put the AC on it own separate breaker… my concern is that it did not come from the manufacture that way so why now does it need it’s own superset breaker? Any help would be useful, thanks.
I would start with asking a technician to check the AC. If the refrigerant is getting low, the AC will start to draw higher amps. Upside is this may be your problem. Downside is that the AC on RVs are not rechargeable. I would not start requiring the camper. That is a bad bad recommendation. You can also ask an electrician to check your loads compared to what your AC manufacturer says it should be. If your pulling higher amps that what the manufacturer states then most likely your looking a new AC. The recommendation to reword is just a work around and not safe. Hope this helps. I would love to hear what you find out.
Great video
Sorry for the delay in getting back to your comment. I had something set up wrong and was not getting the notifications. Thanks for watching. Was there anything here that was of anyhelp?
Good needed information
Glad it was helpful!
i ended up beefing mine up to a 50 amp system, and my A/C had a hard time keeping up in the Texas summer Heat so i added a mini split also. just to add to your Video here that might be an easy quick fix for you is to think about adding a soft start to your A/c to reduce the Amp draw for start up
Cody Manski I have thought about upgrading to fifty but thought that the cable pull would be very difficult. Your thoughts
@@HowToRV i was thinking to completely replace the power center, however i made it easier on myself and just added a new panel under the bunks and kept the original panel intact just in turn making it a sub panel from my new 50 amp panel. doing it this way allowed me to wire my new AC, panel&plug without having the power down for very long. still a work in-progress
Cody Manski cool way to go at it. I like the sub panel idea. That way you don’t have to worry about buying a whole new panel with a 50amp bus. Good stuff
I had the same problem this fall, except substitute electric fireplace for AC. The fireplace, microwave, and water heater can't all be on at the same time. Thankfully our fridge is the new 12v only design so that wasn't in the mix. Also I have a hardwired surge protector/EMS that I installed, which has a display on it for amps, volts, frequency, and any error codes.
I would love to hear how the 12V fridge has worked over time. Even in different temperatures. I was in a rush to get a surge protector when we go our. When ever we get a new camper, I want to install the hardwired one. Less to have to manage and the additional readout display. Good stuff.
It's very easy to draw more than 30 amps in just about any large and well optioned rv yet most older campgrounds still only offer 30 amps.
I completely agree. I looked into upgrading mine to 50 amp but for now, the cost would not be worth the venture.
My AC will run great until the outside temperature gets to around 100 F. Then it kicks off the breaker and will not stay on after wards no matter if nothing else is running. I'm a 62 yr old woman on SSD and it's my first time to have a camper. Also cannot afford to call an electrician to come out. This is my home. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Carolyn Cunningham If you have vents on the ac cover, I would open them so that it can blow cold air staring into your camper instead of through the ducts. Also can check to see if your filter is clean. If all vents are completely open and filter is clean and your still pulling high amps, it may mean that you are low on refrigerant. This would mean that you would unfortunately have to find a way to get a technician to look at it. I am no expert but I do know that high amps means that the compressor that is the primary component of making cold air is working to hard. If you have any contacts with someone who is an electrician I would have them check the electrical load that the ac is pulling. I also have a video coming out Sunday to help explain that very thing.
I have everything turned off in my rv and it trips breaker on my house so I bought a 9000w generator and it kills my generator right when I plug it so im wondering if something is wrong
Sorry to hear that you are having that problem. I am no expert but i would turn off all of my breakers in the RV, plug the camper back in to the house, start with the camper main breaker and one by one turn them back on. When you trip the breaker in the house, this will be the culprit. Must be careful. do not try this to many times. It is faulting for a reason that seems fairly major. Take the RV to a dealer to get looked over if you cant figure it out fairly quick.
My trailer is currently plugged into a house… 15 a male to a 30 a female. the house plug keeps tripping with my ac.. does anybody know is my trailer doing that or is the house plug not enough to power my trailer ac.. ?
I think that your AC is overloading the house. Check out this video, it may help explain a little about how muc power you are using and where it is coming from.
@@HowToRV thank you! Is there a link for the video?
House plug, we have the same issue every summer for the last 2 years.
I’ve had this happen recently.. it tripped my breaker but I also smelt smoke. When I pulled my electrical panel off everything looked good tho.. has anyone had this happen?
I have not had this happen. If you smelled smoke, I would suggest getting an electrician to look it over. Smoke and burning small is a very bad thing.
I have a. 06 fleetwood pull camper the fuses in side are fine not triping so far but the braker in power source out side you plug into the 20 amp braker keeps throwing im not sure but belive that the braker is bad can you help me with my issue
Most RVs are 30 amp. This means that if you are plugged into a 20 amp source, you will trip that breaker before the RV ever would. When i installed my power source at home, i consulted an electrician to have a breaker wired to a box and all of it is 30 amp ready and safe. Hope this helps.
It isn't the fuses in my camper or breaker's its its braker at camp ground the 30 amp braker and before it started all this my refrigerator. Was working fine it keep on trowing out on pole. The 30amp braket that supplies eletric to my cord that gives me eletric inside
@@annettegirault525 Sounds like its an issue that need to be brought up with campground. If you are not already, please make sure that you are using a surge protector
The ac is tripping the outside breaker
Any ideas why that is happening? Nothing else is on.
i would ask the park if there is something wrong with the outside breaker. Usually, the breaker inside the RV will trip first there is a problem on your end
I'm in FL & it's 31 degrees. my phone is charging...but no heater. Small space heater. Totally unhelpful. Not you...just not what's going on. I had no problem running the much larger AC, lights, fridge & never tripped the breaker. using so much less now, makes no sense. I'm freezing, thank you♥️♥️🌎🌎
If you are talking about the propane furnace, then it is the 12v system. There are many factors that could play into the furnace not working. I do not have much experience with them. I would start by checking the 12v fuses and propane supply. Outside of that, get tech to look at it. If you want to give me your approx location in Florida I can see if I know anyone in that location that may be able to help. Send me an email and I will see if we can get you back online. Being cold is no fun at all.