Thank you so much Ben this is a really great gift you are giving to new guitar builders and even guys like me who are half way experienced. You are a cool dude. Crimson rules haha
Hi Ben, I like over engineering and over complicating my projects, its part of the fun, so Ive nearly finished a jig for neck pockets with built in adjustment for the break angle. It might need some refinement but Im confident it will work. Thanks for the tutorial old bean.
What about non-carved tops like flying v? Should you connect the line from the area where the neck joins the body? And then what happens between that gap that you mentioned between the body and the fretboard? Cheers
Got a question. Very good info. I have been looking for this info. Do you measure your bridge so that the strings still have a gap when the saddle is in the lowest position? I’m thinking about bottoming out the saddle to compensate for neck bow under string tension.
very nice thought about this angl but couldnt understand seriously. i realeys if you look at a guiatr on the wall the bridge isn´t setted with an straight angl . the bridge is at the low e string setted to the back of the guitar body because there is not enough space from moving the string saddles of the abr bridges maybe somthing like one mm set to have more distance from the nut. ..have agood koffeetimes! THANKS i mostly do what works and feels comfortable cheers!!
Hi ben, im not a luthier but im really curious on the benefits of having an angled neck BESIDES getting the strings parallel to the fretboard. Do you think Gibson used this method due to the fact the Les Paul have a carved top ?
Nice Ben. One observation..." it's really quite simple".... yes but you've done loads of builds, remember you're first.. it wasn't simple then???😎 peace and love .
I've been searching the internet on Neck pocket an neck joint design with not much luck. Can we have a mini-torial on that? Things like minimal contact surface between body and neck for a set neck. It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!
I glued in my neck and I accidentally put angle into it and I’m not sure what angle it is this is my first kit. It’s nothing major but can you work around the neck angle to make your guitar playable if it’s not too extreme
Using this technique with a tele style bridge (12/13mm) allowing for adjustment would i then need to plane the required angle into the neck its self or into the body? Also in regards to the fret board radius/height am i drawing the edge of the fret board as i would look at it or the zenith or full height as it were of the centre of the fret board. I strive for perfection and rarely attain it lol.
Quick question, where is the angle applied? Do you cut the slot parallel to the surface of the body and angle the back of the neck, or the other way around? Cutting the neck sounds like the obvious answer to me, but then again what do I know.
Normally the bottom of the neck is flat, and the neck pocket is angled as you can do this by putting a routing template on with the angle applied to it when you cut the pocket, but it does depend on the body style and design of the neck joint
'Mil' *here*: short for millimeter. 1 mil = 1 millimeter. 'Mil' especially in US English = A unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (i.e. 0.0254 millimeter). Don't get confused.
holy crap, i've built guitars for almost 5 years, and i didn't understand a thing! i feel so ashamed on that one ! i've always used adjustable neck even on acoustics
To let the strings be high at the bridge and low at the frets, while keeping the fretboard close to the body. All bridges have some minimal mounting height. For Tune-o-Matics, that always requires a neck angle. Top-mounted Floyds (without a recess cavity) also require a neck angle. Also, if you want the guitar to have a trem and be very thin, you need the angle, or otherwise the bridge pickup route would overlap with the spring route.
My understanding is its due to the bridge height. If your bridge isn't very high you don't need the angle. However if the bridge is quite high, the action will be too high at the body end of the neck.
Teles and Strats actually usually don't have a break angle. That's why they have the neck "stick up" higher out of the body than Les Pauls do, for example. So, having the neck "high" relative to the top is one way to go. Another way to go would be to recess the bridge into the body so your string can be closer to the top. The only other option is to have a break angle, so the distance of the string from the top increases on their way from the neck joint to the bridge.
Or the 4th way is the Rickenbacker way, where its not technically a break or recessed bridge, but they carve a fade into the bridge area. I personally think this looks stunning done this way!
It's much easier and more practical to use an adjustable neck angle device like a Fender-style micro-tilt adjuster. Set/through necks, back angled head stocks and other forms of permanently applied angles on a neck are unnecessary and ultimately cause more problems than they solve. Any sensible design allows for all components of the instrument from neck angle to action, intonation, electronics, etc...to be modular and independently adjustable.
Thank you for the three degrees tip, always was a fan off "when will i see you again" ;) About seeing again. What's gonna be the consequences for little & medium independent's, with the brexit, and May losing cofidence by the voters? I,m just curious what's the oppinion of a real craftsman with little personal attached!? Oh', this alo a good one, ruclips.net/video/M-t0onohp-A/видео.html I guess they had too playback to cut the costs?!
Sadly, this is far afield of your usually informative, accurate, entertaining videos. Don't use "break angle" and "neck angle" interchangeably. Use of templates and rulers and straight edges would be better than your flummoxing and line drawing, which obfuscate rather than clarify.
Haha, I was trolling... but I do personally prefer a hipshot style bridge (even if its not genuine). I just like the strings to be closer to the body and straight with it as oppose to angled away.
Hipshot over tune-o-matic any day. I'll play with either but for making guitars, I'd prefer to not add extra steps like determining neck angle if I don't have to. This video IS useful if I planned on making a guitar for someone else who likes that kind of aesthetic though. I always wondered how it was determined.
You do not have to be too scientifically accurate with a guitar...tweak it without measurements according to your playing comfortability.....measuring takes the fun out of playing....It doesnt mean that with a perfect neck angle.....you are gonna be any better than the next guy......CHILL.
![Wiz Khalifa - Khalifa's Home [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnrLCTe0Nz4/mqdefault.jpg)
I loved the split screen, thanks for redoing this video.
Cristal clear and really usefull, It would be interesting a minitorial showing how you apply that to a neck blank or to a neck pocket... or both
Same here! The neck tenon on glued neck guitar can sometimes be tricky!
Like black tourmaline.
Yeah, now what?
Thank you so much Ben this is a really great gift you are giving to new guitar builders and even guys like me who are half way experienced. You are a cool dude. Crimson rules haha
this seems to be an even better idea than the first video on break angle.
Thank you so much for that video. I've been thinking about how to do that for days now.
Thanks Ben stay awesome brother. ☕️
Got 1 question, once you have that angle, where do you use on the guitar? on the body or on the neck its self? :)
Hi Ben, I like over engineering and over complicating my projects, its part of the fun, so Ive nearly finished a jig for neck pockets with built in adjustment for the break angle. It might need some refinement but Im confident it will work. Thanks for the tutorial old bean.
What about non-carved tops like flying v? Should you connect the line from the area where the neck joins the body? And then what happens between that gap that you mentioned between the body and the fretboard? Cheers
Wow I just bought some paper to plan my next guitar and you put this video up, coincidence
> love the way You combine old and new ways! Thanks for making videos and sharing knowledge and experience. Best regards!!
Best explanation I've seen. Thanks
Got a question. Very good info. I have been looking for this info. Do you measure your bridge so that the strings still have a gap when the saddle is in the lowest position? I’m thinking about bottoming out the saddle to compensate for neck bow under string tension.
very nice thought about this angl but couldnt understand seriously.
i realeys if you look at a guiatr on the wall the bridge isn´t setted with an straight angl .
the bridge is at the low e string setted to the back of the guitar body
because there is not enough space from moving the string saddles of the abr bridges maybe somthing like one mm set to have more distance from the nut.
..have agood koffeetimes! THANKS
i mostly do what works and feels comfortable
cheers!!
Thanks you so much for sharing this tip.
Hi ben, im not a luthier but im really curious on the benefits of having an angled neck BESIDES getting the strings parallel to the fretboard. Do you think Gibson used this method due to the fact the Les Paul have a carved top ?
Great ! A wonderful day to you my dear friend !
Nice Ben. One observation..." it's really quite simple".... yes but you've done loads of builds, remember you're first.. it wasn't simple then???😎 peace and love .
I've been searching the internet on Neck pocket an neck joint design with not much luck.
Can we have a mini-torial on that? Things like minimal contact surface between body and neck for a set neck.
It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!
at one guitar ive had neck through and i had to made a little pool for the abr bridge .--possible is everything Cheers
I glued in my neck and I accidentally put angle into it and I’m not sure what angle it is this is my first kit. It’s nothing major but can you work around the neck angle to make your guitar playable if it’s not too extreme
Using this technique with a tele style bridge (12/13mm) allowing for adjustment would i then need to plane the required angle into the neck its self or into the body? Also in regards to the fret board radius/height am i drawing the edge of the fret board as i would look at it or the zenith or full height as it were of the centre of the fret board. I strive for perfection and rarely attain it lol.
Robert Murphy I’d imagine it's far easier to plane it off the neck tenon than to try and rout your pocket on a 3 degree angle...
Can anyone tell me the name of song playing at 9:38 of video.
Quick question, where is the angle applied? Do you cut the slot parallel to the surface of the body and angle the back of the neck, or the other way around? Cutting the neck sounds like the obvious answer to me, but then again what do I know.
Normally the bottom of the neck is flat, and the neck pocket is angled as you can do this by putting a routing template on with the angle applied to it when you cut the pocket, but it does depend on the body style and design of the neck joint
I'm planning to build a neck thru bass with a hardtail bridge so the question is do i even need a break angle?
'Mil' *here*: short for millimeter. 1 mil = 1 millimeter.
'Mil' especially in US English = A unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (i.e. 0.0254 millimeter).
Don't get confused.
Hey Ben, do you think you could do a video on how to cut a radial neck and pocket like Ken Parker is famous for?
Very useful Ben, top man
which one should we angle? the heel or the pocket?
I agree, while it's well done, I have no idea how to apply that to a body I already have.
good job
This is exactly how I do it except I draw it in the computer. 👍
holy crap, i've built guitars for almost 5 years, and i didn't understand a thing! i feel so ashamed on that one ! i've always used adjustable neck even on acoustics
obrigado
Easiest solution for paper - lining paper from DIY store....
ah NOW I get it :)
Why does a guitar need a break angle in the first place?
To let the strings be high at the bridge and low at the frets, while keeping the fretboard close to the body.
All bridges have some minimal mounting height. For Tune-o-Matics, that always requires a neck angle. Top-mounted Floyds (without a recess cavity) also require a neck angle. Also, if you want the guitar to have a trem and be very thin, you need the angle, or otherwise the bridge pickup route would overlap with the spring route.
unless the bridge was recessed into the cavity, but the purists don't like that
My understanding is its due to the bridge height. If your bridge isn't very high you don't need the angle. However if the bridge is quite high, the action will be too high at the body end of the neck.
Teles and Strats actually usually don't have a break angle. That's why they have the neck "stick up" higher out of the body than Les Pauls do, for example.
So, having the neck "high" relative to the top is one way to go. Another way to go would be to recess the bridge into the body so your string can be closer to the top. The only other option is to have a break angle, so the distance of the string from the top increases on their way from the neck joint to the bridge.
Or the 4th way is the Rickenbacker way, where its not technically a break or recessed bridge, but they carve a fade into the bridge area. I personally think this looks stunning done this way!
It's much easier and more practical to use an adjustable neck angle device like a Fender-style micro-tilt adjuster. Set/through necks, back angled head stocks and other forms of permanently applied angles on a neck are unnecessary and ultimately cause more problems than they solve. Any sensible design allows for all components of the instrument from neck angle to action, intonation, electronics, etc...to be modular and independently adjustable.
Thank you for the three degrees tip, always was a fan off "when will i see you again" ;)
About seeing again. What's gonna be the consequences for little & medium independent's, with the brexit, and May losing cofidence by the voters?
I,m just curious what's the oppinion of a real craftsman with little personal attached!?
Oh', this alo a good one, ruclips.net/video/M-t0onohp-A/видео.html
I guess they had too playback to cut the costs?!
4 mils of action?
ouch
I use less than 2 mils on the 12th fret ;)
rukidding
Sadly, this is far afield of your usually informative, accurate, entertaining videos. Don't use "break angle" and "neck angle" interchangeably. Use of templates and rulers and straight edges would be better than your flummoxing and line drawing, which obfuscate rather than clarify.
How to achieve the perfect break angle:
Don't. Do away with tune-o-spastic, use a proper bridge and keep the fretboard flat to the body :P
What would you say is a "proper bridge"?
Haha, I was trolling... but I do personally prefer a hipshot style bridge (even if its not genuine). I just like the strings to be closer to the body and straight with it as oppose to angled away.
Hipshot over tune-o-matic any day. I'll play with either but for making guitars, I'd prefer to not add extra steps like determining neck angle if I don't have to. This video IS useful if I planned on making a guitar for someone else who likes that kind of aesthetic though. I always wondered how it was determined.
You do not have to be too scientifically accurate with a guitar...tweak it without measurements according to your playing comfortability.....measuring takes the fun out of playing....It doesnt mean that with a perfect neck angle.....you are gonna be any better than the next guy......CHILL.