So the way that stitching works is, it's applied as a lock stitch, a thread on top, a thread underneath, and the overlap, or lock, is inside, in the middle, held tightly in place. The rubber holds the thread inside itself so tightly that once the visible bottom thread is gone, the interior thread acts as a row of nails, a very secure mechanical fastening. Actually, nails might even be a bad comparison, because in my experience, the nails in the heel start failing before that stitching does. It's very much not aesthetic. In fact, if you watch rebuild videos, pulling the nails out is easy, but breaking into and cutting that stitch line is hard. You'll wear the soles flat before you fail those stitches.
The stitching goes through the whole boot. If they were not holding anything they would come out the top. Nice shoes I look forward to watching their patina progress.
I have heard you can fix those nails sticking up by punching them back down. In the Nicks videos on RUclips I think they just use a piece of rebar and a hammer. Maybe that would help. I bought a pair of whites perry Moc toe and they were to tight in the width (EE). I ended up selling them. Then I bought a pair of Whites Longliner boots in a FF width. And they fit perfectly. My next pair is going to be a nicks builder pro. Thanks for the video.
I suggest cleaning that heel stack and put wax on it. This will protect it from water and oil damage, preventing that oak tanned leather from shrinking.
Ok. I’ve heard oiling the heel stack is not recommended due to the leather swelling and pulling nails loose. Not sure if that is correct or not. But thanks for commenting and watching
If you wax those boots, they'll keep your feet dry this winter, the water will bead up on the surface with nowhere to go. I melt 50/50 beeswax and coconut oil together in a mason jar, shake it up and let it harden, then I just spread it evenly over the boots with my hands and then melt it into the leather with a heat gun. You could also make a mix with more oil if you don't wanna use a heat gun. You gotta stuff the wax into all the stitches, like packing grease into a bearing. I have boots that are all leather, no lining or anything, and I've tested the wax by walking through deep puddles and ditches with water over my ankles, and it's never gotten into my boots, always perfectly dry.
Good video, helps me make decisions on whether I want a rough out leather or not. Also good to hear your break-in experiences. Regarding the stitching, totally normal on any boot with stitching on the bottom - sole has cement/glue and further stitching under. You’ll have no issues. Water proofing…I’d use sno-seal to keep it easy and simple. The nails, glad you pointed that out…recently returned a new pair of Whites Perry Selects because of that (there was 8 nails sticking right through brand new). Returned them. Much much worse than what you have going on (you shouldn’t have any issues). But when my weight would eventually push down on that leather, those nails would be right into my foot. Never mind the rust. 12-14 ounces of sweat enter the average persons boot in an 8 hour work day.
I enjoyed the review. I just purchased a pair of Nick's Hot Shots and received them a couple of weeks ago. So I'll be interested in how it goes for you since the Builder Pro and the Hot Shot are really the same build except for the heat rated v100 sole and the heat rated stitching. Mine is the 55 last. I've never owned boots that were stitched through that didn't lose the sole stitching within a few months. That includes a pair of White's that I had resoled three times in the last several years. The sole depends more on adhesive than stitching, so in my experience you don't have anything to worry about there. I'll keep an eye out for your next update. Good luck.
I did not go half size down. I usually get an 11EEE In Redwing boots. I used the sizing template Nick’s has on their website and ordered accordingly. They fit perfectly
@@PerryCountyWhitetails Yeah I believe so. It’s their new line with the rubber mid sole too. The most water “proof” boot they make, assuming you get their water proof leather too.
So the way that stitching works is, it's applied as a lock stitch, a thread on top, a thread underneath, and the overlap, or lock, is inside, in the middle, held tightly in place. The rubber holds the thread inside itself so tightly that once the visible bottom thread is gone, the interior thread acts as a row of nails, a very secure mechanical fastening. Actually, nails might even be a bad comparison, because in my experience, the nails in the heel start failing before that stitching does. It's very much not aesthetic. In fact, if you watch rebuild videos, pulling the nails out is easy, but breaking into and cutting that stitch line is hard. You'll wear the soles flat before you fail those stitches.
Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense now 👍
Good luck in the dome. Enjoy your world class boots.
Thank you
The stitching goes through the whole boot. If they were not holding anything they would come out the top. Nice shoes I look forward to watching their patina progress.
Yeah I guess you’re right. Just seems a little odd to me. Thanks for watching
I have heard you can fix those nails sticking up by punching them back down. In the Nicks videos on RUclips I think they just use a piece of rebar and a hammer. Maybe that would help.
I bought a pair of whites perry Moc toe and they were to tight in the width (EE). I ended up selling them. Then I bought a pair of Whites Longliner boots in a FF width. And they fit perfectly. My next pair is going to be a nicks builder pro. Thanks for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it. I’m going to try to punch the nails down soon. Just gotta find a suitable piece of steel. 👍
I suggest cleaning that heel stack and put wax on it. This will protect it from water and oil damage, preventing that oak tanned leather from shrinking.
Ok. I’ve heard oiling the heel stack is not recommended due to the leather swelling and pulling nails loose. Not sure if that is correct or not. But thanks for commenting and watching
If you wax those boots, they'll keep your feet dry this winter, the water will bead up on the surface with nowhere to go. I melt 50/50 beeswax and coconut oil together in a mason jar, shake it up and let it harden, then I just spread it evenly over the boots with my hands and then melt it into the leather with a heat gun. You could also make a mix with more oil if you don't wanna use a heat gun. You gotta stuff the wax into all the stitches, like packing grease into a bearing. I have boots that are all leather, no lining or anything, and I've tested the wax by walking through deep puddles and ditches with water over my ankles, and it's never gotten into my boots, always perfectly dry.
Thanks for the tip
Good video, helps me make decisions on whether I want a rough out leather or not. Also good to hear your break-in experiences. Regarding the stitching, totally normal on any boot with stitching on the bottom - sole has cement/glue and further stitching under. You’ll have no issues. Water proofing…I’d use sno-seal to keep it easy and simple. The nails, glad you pointed that out…recently returned a new pair of Whites Perry Selects because of that (there was 8 nails sticking right through brand new). Returned them. Much much worse than what you have going on (you shouldn’t have any issues). But when my weight would eventually push down on that leather, those nails would be right into my foot. Never mind the rust. 12-14 ounces of sweat enter the average persons boot in an 8 hour work day.
I’m glad it was helpful. Thank you for your comment.
Never easy breaking a new pair of boots especially work boots. Nice review
Thanks! 👍
I enjoyed the review. I just purchased a pair of Nick's Hot Shots and received them a couple of weeks ago. So I'll be interested in how it goes for you since the Builder Pro and the Hot Shot are really the same build except for the heat rated v100 sole and the heat rated stitching. Mine is the 55 last. I've never owned boots that were stitched through that didn't lose the sole stitching within a few months. That includes a pair of White's that I had resoled three times in the last several years. The sole depends more on adhesive than stitching, so in my experience you don't have anything to worry about there. I'll keep an eye out for your next update. Good luck.
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching. I’m really hoping these boots last longer than my Redwings
Your boots are work boots why the concern for spots or stains?
The soles are glued and stitched so even if the stitches wear until the glue lets go you shouldn’t have a problem. Just an opinion.
Which kid standing behind the camera whispering,....☺
Ruthie and Karen
What about sizing? Did you go with your normal size, or did you go a half size down like Nick's recommends?
I did not go half size down. I usually get an 11EEE In Redwing boots. I used the sizing template Nick’s has on their website and ordered accordingly. They fit perfectly
You should have bought Nicks waterproof boots with their waterproof leather. Next time….
Is that the 365 stitchdown boot ?
@@PerryCountyWhitetails Yeah I believe so. It’s their new line with the rubber mid sole too. The most water “proof” boot they make, assuming you get their water proof leather too.
I saw your picture in the app.
I thought you're wearing zero drop African rangers for the dome
I am in the open dome. I’m wearing my nicks for the work category. 👍
@@PerryCountyWhitetails no kidding. I didn't know a person could do both
Yes they allowed 2 pairs this year