Easiest Way to Hang a Heavy Picture or Mirror
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
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There are numerous ways to hang a heavy picture on the wall but some methods are easier than others. I have tried numerous products over the years and have settled on the go-to Drywall anchor that will provide the best results. I will walk you through hanging a 25 lb mirror on a wall and provide you additional details to ensure your project has the best results.
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I always have trouble with hanging D-ring pictures. Your tips will definitely help. Thanks.
String picture hanging wire between the two D-rings, then use two standard picture hangers (the type with a hook that is nailed into the wall) at the properly weighted rating. The screw-in wall anchors leave huge holes. Standard hangers just leave two small nail holes. (He said wall repair when preparing to move is a consideration) Recently hung a heavy (60 lb) mirror for my Mom using two hangers rated at 45 lb each. Worked great. Piece of cake. 👍👍
Thank you so much for this video! I've been living on my own since 2019, but I've always been able to rely on my dad to do "handy-man" tasks for me. This year, I start remodeling and redecorating my home, and I wanted to do as much of the work on my own. These videos have been so helpful, and so easy to follow along. Thank You. :)
I thought this was a great video! I successfully hung a heavy piece of art. Yes, I did need to make sure the DRings were installed evenly- but understood this without being told. The anchors were easy to install and no need for stud finding. The measuring is the trickiest- but went well. Thank you, Scott!
Hi. Watched and commented on a few of your DIY videos. When watching this one, two things come to mind:
First, I agree with the other comments below mine regarding no reference to making sure that both D rings are perfectly level to each other. I, too, have come across this issue and had to make corrections to my measurements before making holes in the wall.
Second, why do you prefer the metal anchors? I personally like the plastic screw-in type (like the metal ones), only because I think they add additional secure measures. When you introduce the screw, the plastic anchor expands (some with a "snap"), and I personally like that. Just like the metal anchors, the threads grip the drywall nicely and securely with only that one difference of the screw expanding the plastic anchor for added security.
I run the screw in on the mark and back it out then run the easy anchor in. More accurate and easier to put the anchor in. FYI. Thanks for you content!
Thank you I enjoyed your explanation with the EZ anchors & the 3m small hole repair tool. Keep up the good work . God Bless you James
I hang a lot of mirrors in my work using this method. I use both metal and plastic 'Zip-Its' the common name for these anchors depending on circumstances. I use 'truss' head sheet metal screws as the head is like using a washer. Never use picture wire on mirrors, most of them have warnings against doing so. Good video. Pro tip, I use low tack painters tape to mark drill points
GREAT video!!! very clear to follow. explanation he gives is great , Thank you
Really enjoy the videos. You deliver good information of nearly aspect of repairs . You are a very good teacher. I really appreciate everything you share with your experience. Thank you very much for your time!!!!
Thanks for the kind words!
Advise: Check for studs before installing EZAncors. If you don't have a stud finder, first set a pair of screws that comes with the kit into the wall on a full length (you can use a power drill or impact driver). It will be your pilot holes for the EZAncors. If you feel no resistance - that means there's nothing behind the sheetrock. Now just remove the screws and set the EZAncors into pilot holes. If there were a soft resistance like a wood - leave the screw there and don't use EZAncor. If you hit a metal - stop and think! :)
Quick tip: if you want a bigger lip on the screw for the D-ring, you can simply put a washer on it before screwing it into the anchor.
OMG. I never thought of that. Because the lip on my 40-lb anchor screws was too small and I was hanging a huge 25-lb mirror, I removed the anchors from the wall, filled the holes, and went out and bought 50-lb anchors with slightly larger screw lips. I had to fill the old holes and make new ones because the 50-lb anchors would not catch in the existing 40-lb anchor holes. Stupid me. I could simply have used my 40-lb anchors & screws with washers added and saved myself a messed up wall, $7.98, and a whole lot of work.
Thanks. I love all your info. I feel confident hanging my heavy mirror
Did you take into consideration the d-ring being inset from the edge of mirror for the 5” space from the side wall?
Excellent presentation.
I’m so happy you made this video. Like several of other items you’ve recommended, I bought the E-Z Anchors, but wasn’t exactly sure how to use them. I live in a manufactured home and I can’t hang anything without creating a huge hole, I just want to hang curtain rods, lol, so that’s why I bought them. Thanks for explaining this so well, very helpful.
You bet, happy to help 👍
They still holding up?
I absolutely love your channel. I have learned so much from watching several of your DIY videos. Sadly my ex was of no help and hardly knew how to use a hammer. . no lie! My next project is replacing some small wood paneling pieces used at 2 entrance ways. I'm not sure why they used paneling over the wall but my guess is that the walls were damaged and an ez fix was slapping some paneling over it. They had a dog gate attached and it scratched the paneling pretty bad. Do you have any DIY videos on this subject? Thanks for the videos. You make the content and explanations so relatable, easy to understand.
Thanks, us plaster ppl are going through it. Hooks Concrete nails have also been my best friend
Well done, as always. Thank you.
I never trust the manufactured mounting locations. I always double check the vertical distance between the top of the piece and the mounting keyhole/d-ring/hanger.
I've had too many things from Walmart be off, even up to an 1/8" out of whack.
You help widows like me! Thank you!!!
Great idea. I am lucky to live in a log cabin. All of my outside walls are six inch wood and interior walls are knotty pine. It is easy to find a place to drill a hole!
Heck yeah!
Love these too. Usually drive the screw to predrill a hole.
Thanks. Two comments:
1. You will be a bit less than 5” from the left wall as the D-Ring is not centered exactly at the edge of the mirror frame.
2. You trusted that the D-Rings would be accurately placed on the mirror frame. I have been burned on this a few times as they were not at the same distances from the top of the frame.
One last thing. It looked like the electrical tape you used to hold your iPhone was stretching a little, interfering with your leveling exercise.
Thanks for the feedback Dean. Getting burned by incorrectly installed D-Rings would be a bummer.
Hahaha. You are absolutely correct. The cheap mirrors are usually not centered but I have purchased a couple heavy duty mirrors where they were centered perfectly. You are correct on the stretch of the tape.
I set up model homes professionally and have hung hundreds of pictures and mirrors big and small. First for heavy items always try and hit at least one stud if you can. Secondly personally I like the plastic anchors more, plastic has flex to it so is more forgiving while screwing in the anchor. I have tightened the metal ones just a bit to much and blown out the hole compared to plastic. I saw the post about the 200+ lbs plastic wall anchors. 200 lbs on a one inch spot is not gonna hold, it will cam out or just sheer down the wall.
cool vid, great stuff.. Thanks
Thank you this was prefect for the project I was working on. We got it done thank you so much!
You bet, happy to help!
Never assume that the mirror brackets are at the same distance from the top of the mirror. One could be a hair higher or lower throwing of the level when you hang it.
Agree, I always check the distance from the top on both brackets and many times I have to move one to level them up. It’s best to do this before you install the drywall anchors.
We had a mirror that had the brackets off by about 10". What a pain.
👍🏻 It's good to know about that 3M wall hole filler.
Those metal anchors are the very best, not only because they carry a great deal of weight, and hence will not fail or fall out, but also they can be reused many times, and the hole they leave can easily be patched with wallboard cement, a quick sanding, and repainting. I use a quality stud finder to be sure to work around any studs,and of course if you need an anchor right where a stud is, then simply use a longer wood screw in that spot and screw it into the stud, and I would use my power drill to drive it in rather than trying to drive it in by hand.
I'm surprised you didn't check for a wall stud before going directly to E-anchors. Had you already checked that out? I enjoy your videos, and never miss them.
I find your videos very helpful. They either teach or refresh my memory of how to do whatever task I’m confronted with. My question, because there are so many apps, which one do you use for measuring plus leveling (or more?)?
Hi Susan, I just use the “measure” App/Utility which I think comes installed by default on iPhones. 👍
great video
On knowing your paint color, writing it down on some painters tap and placing the tape on the inside of an outlet cover in that same room.
I love the wire system. (You develop an eye for that sort of thing), and only one hole.
I like the wire system as well, even if the weight of the item requires two screws or hooks. It allows for some additional adjustment of leveling, which is more critical to looking correct than being ever so slightly to one side or the other. As someone else said about the method in this video, what's the point of checking the level after the install, since it would then be too late to fix it. I have put up items with just the d-rings, but it requires a lot of precise measuring including checking the placement of both rings from the top of the frame.
I use wire too with 2 bulldog hangers on each print or mirror. I wrap masking tape around the small section of twisted wire & over the loop where the wire is connected to protect the wall. Bumpers on bottom corners too.
Thanks!
When I use my iPhone as a leveler, I try to make sure the level touches both small lines next to the degree number parallel. Because even if it says 0 degree there's still a little bit of error.
Thanks for the helpful vids. You have a very broad spectrum of knowledge. Specifically you are quite knowledgable with electrical, and i appreciate that because i am not!
Probably the worst and cheapest setup you can get for art work, but I also respect and enjoy this gentleman work. Go and ask your art supply specialist.
Excellent tips and video. I now have to make an exchange at Home Depot... All good though....
I have a nice solution that might not be available to everyone. Instead of marking on the walls when laying out a picture arrangement, tape paper to the wall and mark on the paper, or mark on pieces of masking tape. Now, here is my easy solution. In my hometown, they sell newsprint end rolls for a buck or two. These are about 36" wide and vary in length usually at least 20-30 ft. Just cut a piece off and tape it to the wall and mark to your heart's content. If you have young children they will love it to draw on, also great for masking off an area for painting.
Instead of the screw in anchors, today I would use the 3M Claw anchors.
Not sure if they existed when this video was posted. Very easy to install and strong. For a 25 lb mirror, a 15lb rated Claw on each side would work fine. They leave only two small punctures when removed.
Take some small nails or screws and when you are holding the mirror up to the wall, hold it in such a way that your fingers on the back side are holding the nails/screws in place in the D-rings like they would be when hanging on the wall. Press the mirror frame with your hands in place against the wall and the points of the screws will make tiny holes where the screws should be installed.
*Tip - have a pencil ready so that as you lower the mirror back down you can keep your eyes on the wall and mark the holes right away before you lose sight of them.
Once you look away, the holes can be difficult to find again. If you DO lose sight of your holes, simply repeat Step 1.
How do you fix it, if after all this you find the mirror is not level, i.e. it's off-level by up to a 1/4"?
Amazon link needed
tHANK YOU
Good video and thank you very much. However, I personally would NEVER use a pipe to level something on a wall. The pipe is round, meaning that you can come in and mark above or below where you actually need it. I have used a straight board or a nice long (3 - 4 foot) metal straight edge.
Can you show me how to install a recessed mirror medicine cabinet, especially for a 30-inch one? Would it compromise the structure of the load-bearing wall?
Do you think it's necessary for a rental property?
Usually the recessed medicine cabinets are designed to fit into the space between studs in a standard 16" on center spacing. You can run into issue with vent pvc lines but if you have the space and it is centered to you vanity the install is pretty straightforward.
🤗 GREAT SCOTT…😉….I NEVER THOUGHT 💭 OF A IPHONE AS A LEVEL 👍😍😍😍
I've tried all kinds of anchors on both drywall and plaster/lath walls/ceilings, and it's very difficult to beat regular old toggle bolts. For plaster just get longer ones to ensure they push all the way past the lath and open up. Other contenders for me are the plastic expanding toggle bolts from Toggler or the plastic strap anchors with a metal bar. Those screw type anchors are difficult to get in straight, and especially with drywall can easily strip out and become useless.
Your comment seems to have been cut off. Last thing it says it "..., and especially with..." but no link see more.
Toggle bolts are definitely the safest way for stability, but will blow a BIG hole out in the wall when trying to remove them, so only good for permanent homes, not for reselling a home and esp. not for renters.
Dude the iphone taped to the pipe gets the 2023 MacGyver award. Thanks for that, good vid.
To transfer the positions of the D-rings, put painters tape on one of the flat sides (top or bottom) of the level. Place the level on the back of the picture or mirror and mark the positions of the D-rings on the tape. Place the level on the wall, once it's at the right height and level, just transfer the marks for the D-rings onto the wall. If you're worried about the marks on the painters tape being reversed, no problem just use a carpenters square and draw through the original marks across the tape, to the other side of the level. The tape should be 2", to cover all the way across the level. Now flip the level around and you can transfer the marks to be in the correct orientation. Have fun!
No, "X" doesn't mark the spot where you want your first anchor, because the tip of the D-ring on the mirror is slight offset from the side of the mirror. You need to measure that amount and add it to the 5" from the side that you want. In this case, it looked to me like it might be 0.5".
I thought the exact same thing.
Remember though, he measured the distance between the peak of the D rings and no need to know where the D ring was attached to the mirror. So he is absolutely correct!
the original comment is about the distance between the wall and the edge of the mirror. if you have expectations for that distance, you need to take into account where the D-ring tip is relative to the edge of the mirror.
I sent all 3 back. Covid not get connected. ID scan label was outdated.
It looks so easy to install but it can turn to be a nightmare if it is not done the measurements you showed. Thank you for sharing
Super easy install until it isn't 😂
For heavy stuff, I've had great success using z-bar. Allows you to always use studs.
Thanks for the feedback Bern, I have seen the cleat systems out there but never tried them out.
There are some cleat systems that have their own bubble level built-in. You don't have to go hunting for a level, or worry that it's too long or not long enough. That's really nice when you've got a really heavy wooden framed mirror that takes two people to lift it into place.
My mirror is 15 lbs. would the 40lb or 50 lb ones be enough ? I’m not sure is my drywall is 1/2 or 5/8. Or should I use the toggle bolt ones ?
You should be fine with either the 40 or 50. You could also just use 2 x 40 lb anchors for peace of mind.
What if the rings on the piece being hung are NOT plumb?
Monkey hooks have become my go to
I have several anchors like that coming out of the drywall. Theyre only holding up drapery rods. I do not recommend using them.
Use the stainless steel wall hanging hooks that go behind the drywall, sometimes called monkey or Hercules hooks. It only takes one and they hold up to 100 lbs. You can get 50 for like $10 on Amazon.
What about hitting a stud?
The type of metal wall anchor shown in this video should be quite capable of handling a stud being in the way. It would be harder to install, but should still screw right through it.
Myself, I find that I like to pre-drill anchors like this, to make it a lost easier to install them in exactly the desired location.
Is there a simple way to secure the two D-rings to the two screws, so the mirror won't fall off the wall during an earthquake?
What we did with some of our paintings was to apply 3M Command Picture Hanging strips on the bottom of the frame, between the frame and the wall. In part, they serve the same purpose as the clear rubber bumpers that were shown in the video. But they also secure the bottom of the painting to the wall, so long as they don't have to take a lot of weight. This also helps keep the frames level, in case they get bumped.
We don't have much in the way of earthquakes here in Austin, TX. But we do have curious cats.
You forgot one VERY important step. You've assumed that some 12 year old Chinese kid made an EXACT measurement on the back of the mirror as to where to attached the hangers. I've learned the hard way, even off 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch can throw off the way the object sits on your wall.
More likely N. Korean slave labor contracted out to China. They send out the men and hold their wives, mothers, etc. as hostages.
This guy has gorgeous eyes!
Why not use the level BEFORE putting the screw in the first anchor bolt, so that the bottom edge of the level can be aligned with the center of the anchor bolt instead of atop the screw head?
Usually I need that screw to rest the level on and make it easier to get the bubble aligned and your second location marked. Just me 2 cents. 👍
The method shown doesn't require both anchors to be placed exactly correct and in the perfect location. Instead, you reference one off the first as it was installed, and then you put the second one in. This can help simplify installations and make them less prone to having both anchors slightly out of place.
@@shubinternet : If you reread my question more carefully, you'll see that the alternative I asked about also uses the first anchor bolt as a reference for the second mark. The alternative I suggested uses the center of the first anchor bolt for the reference point, instead of the point that's a screwhead radius above its center as shown in the video.
@@brothermine2292 ahh, sorry. I misread your question. However, towards that point I can see the response from the author that it's easier to have a solid place to put the level and not worry about the level getting off-mark while you're trying to mark the second location. There is the radius of the screw head to be concerned with, but that shouldn't be too hard and the bubble level will at least give you an accurate level that you can reference from for that screw head radius.
@@shubinternet : Yes, if one needs a resting place for the weight of the level, resting it on the screwhead makes sense. Or perhaps one could temporarily stick a pin or skinny nail into the anchor bolt and rest the level on the pin or nail. If I rest the level on the screwhead, I wouldn't just estimate by eye the screwhead radius offset needed for the second anchor bolt... I would measure the screwhead diameter, and then make a second mark located a screwhead radius below the first mark, and sink the second anchor bolt into the second mark.
I misunderstand the part when you do have to make up that distance just a little bit (timestamp 6;19 in the video)?
Can you briefly explain it in other words. I am about to hand a 10.5 kg. rectangle mirror this week.
The level is sitting on top of the screw head so when we mark the 2nd location we would want to make the mark a bit lower than the edge of the level since we are marking the center of the screw/anchor and not the edge of the screw head. Make sense?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs It does. When you lower it a bit, are you still staying in the range when the level is straight (bubble in the center), in other words do you eye-measure the bit of leeway you give it?
This assumes the D rings are the same distance down from the top of the mirror. Measure across and down before marking the wall.
With the method shown, you have to make CERTAIN that the D-rings are set equidistant from the top. Often they aren't and you will need to adjust your anchor locations accordingly. 😁
Why not just use Hangman Softy brackets?
40 yrs. ago I used wood screws in studs to hold an 80 lb. mirror that's still up there. Seems safer.
A $40 laser level from HF Tools is cheaper, more accurate, and won't shut down for an update during your job.
Project farm.
E z ancor ship lap
An IPhone is a common tool for the everyday handyman & DIY person! It's also not reliable just like some brands of levels can't be trusted to be True!
Like many other have commented, these are almost the WORST hangers and are usually only found on cheap frames/pictures. Issues:
1. They are almost never exactly the same side-to-side and top to bottom; you have to measure and be precise with everything
2. "Level" is usually the way you want to hang them, but not always exactly. It's more important that it LOOKS right than that it is level; work with an interior decorator and you'll quicly find that out. Ceilings, walls, floors and door, window, and floor trim are often a bit off plumb/level, and a level wall hanging will look crooked. I can't tell you how many times I've needed to re-hang something off-level so it looked right.
Bottom line: The zig-zag cut metal pieces and or wire-hangers are much easier and adjustable than these unforgiving, cheap hangers.
All this without first locating studs, if any?? Also, for Brad, Dean and the rest of the mechanical engineers; an eighth of an inch might matter if he was going to make a moon shot??
Set up your second mark with your level BEFORE you install the anchor.
Most of the time, the D-rings are not at the same distance from the top.
Note that this video makes a major assumption that the D-ring on your picture were installed the same distance from the top or bottom. in my experience they never are.
Monkey hooks are so much easier to use and leave a tiny hole.
A few points:
- Always measure the vertical distance to both D-rings, often they are installed uneven.
- Never use an app instead of an actual level, those things are gimmicks and are not going to be accurate- especially if you're taping your phone to a pipe, that's absurd!
- Use blue painters tape to mark the reference points on the wall instead of using pencil, less mess. I only use pencil where I'm actually going to drill my holes, and for my center mark
- While EZ Anchors and similar are a decent choice in drywall, it's really not a good choice in plaster. Plaster is more brittle, and an anchor like this which really chews up the material is not a good idea. A plug type anchor, with careful pre-drilling, is better for plaster in my opinion.
- For heavy mirrors and/or walls of questionable strength, use flat metal hooks screwed to the wall (with appropriate anchors) rather than hanging from screws directly. It will be much stronger, as there is less of a levering effect on the screw- the body of the hook braces against the wall, meaning that it's all shear load rather than tensile load. Hooks also give you some leeway in case your measurement is slightly off.
- While you can install these in drywall without pre-drilling, it's a bad idea and will make a mess. You should always pre-drill. And I trust the plastic ones more than the metal. This is fiber-reinforced nylon, the strength of the plastic is not a limiting factor.
- EZ Anchors are NOT actually rated to 50 pounds! While this detail is buried in the specs on the manufacturer's website, the advertised load rating is BEFORE applying necessary safety factors. The instructions also state that the load rating is the total 'per job, NOT per anchor'. FYI SnapSkru by Toggler is similar to EZ Ancors but have a higher load rating (when including safety factors), and in my opinion are of a better quality.
(there are many more tips and tricks about installing these properly, but these are the most critical issues I find with this video..)
Wow, great feedback and I really appreciate you taking the time sharing your experience and knowledge. Much appreciated 👍
A poor choice to use a broomstick or pipe or other round cross section object as a straightedge, since it's hard to take the curvature into account accurately when marking the wall. Also, why even bother checking the top frame of the mirror for level after mounting, since by that point you have no adjustment options?
Look to right side of the object in the middle after you hung it. Does not look good. Could be my eye sight and don't want to offend you. Recently finished a painting job with 10' walls. Good luck to the person who has to rehang everything. Weight is my primary concern. How much weight can drywall hold by it self with an anchor?
You got to love somebody who has $1,000 cell phone but doesn't have a $20 level
Difficult to call and text with a level. ; )
@@dwightl5863 Google searches are even harder.
If looks could l
You are assuming the “D” rings are both the same distance from the top of the mirror. This is not always true.
Dude, I can see the hanger on the side of your frame.
I thought you said HEAVY !!!!
Mirror doesn't have any hardware on the back 🤔
That's a no go for me; do not like anything to do with Philips head hardware.
Why not first use the level to make two marks, rather than screwing an anchor w/screw to the initial mark, then trying to estimate the 2nd mark to
level. Makes poor sense.
I'd rather tape a cheap little level to the rod than use that app.
oh, and here I thought the suck of the iPhone was holding the picture to the wall! sorry, couldn't resist.
🤓✌🖖👌👍😎
That mirror is not 25 pounds
That’s not heavy
Use your $500 phone to do the job of a $15 tool. Yeah, priorities are in order there....
Do not do this!!!. I repeat, do not do this!!! So much bad info here. Those D-hangers are not level across the frame. You have to measure the hanger from the top of frame to top of hanger. Then those anchors. They are junk. They crumble drywall. Worse, when used in plaster wall you have to expect the wood ferrying strips in the plaster. This is very bad example of how to hang an item.
I've been using those anchors for at least 30 years with no problems
Bruh who peed in your Wheaties? There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the anchors and anyone with a brain would know to check the level of the D rings. Sheesh!!!!!
I use the anchors. The best for heavy mirrors
😂😂😂😂😂 ya madman
Stfu
Let’s start over….Get the height…measure down from top…now measure the split..from the middle. Make your marks. Now use 2 50 lb art hooks…screw lips are not big enough to safely hold the dring. a simple nudge can lift the dring over the lip.I own a Art install service in ca. thank you for making this more complicated than necessary..it helps my business….plus why is that mirror so far offset left…?