The new "Set" is really cool and looks great!! Something I really appreciate these days is "tuners"! In the early 70's everyone changed strings during the week, but we were all out of pitch the next weekend! Even with "tuning forks" and/or "pitch pipes". It took a long time to get right! About 1978 I bought a "Korg tuner". It was 4"X8" and 1" thick. It would emit a tone, and had a delicate needle gauge you had to align with a mirror backing, and zero to the note you select with a dial. I paid 200 1978 dollars for it, about $950 today!! It still took a lot of time, but no more arguing who was in-pitch and who was not!! Today, I prefer the TC PolyTune and UniTune clip on. But there are dozens of great ones, including a Korg for $15.00! LOL Sorry to ramble on here. If you got this far thanks for reading my dumb story. 8) --gary
@@martianmurray I didn't buy too many new guitars back then. We didn't have much $$. But I did buy a new Guild D35 Burst in 1972. (Spruce/mahogany like a Martin D18) It was $290 w/a hard shell case. We were stuck playing guitars from the 50's and 60's. 8) Yes, if I knew then.... LOL --gary
@@gtr1952 There wasn't really a vintage guitar scene back in the sixties, just second-hand. They're now the vintage guitars. I had one of those Korg tuners, still have it actually. Prior to that it was the dreaded pitch pipes. Regards.
Regarding winder, I recommend either one with a rubbered tuning key slot or to use a cloth to protect the side of your guitar's headstock. Cheap winders may damage headstock finish leaving circular scratches around tuning keys.
Fabulous advice, thank you. Intonation obsessives may have me hanged for this, but I tune playing 12th fret harmonics measured by a standard Snark tuner - particularly useful when the tuner occasionally fails to respond to an open string, I've never known it fail to grab one of those clear, ringing harmonics.
I know you never cover nylon string guitars but I would love to see your way to re-string one. Its always a battle to keep my nylon in tune after I change strings. They always slip on the peg I don't really know how to get them caught. How about some top stick on the peg hahaha. I have the bridge wrap down and that always looks pretty. I always start on the low E and the next string will hold the tail of the previous string. The nylon pegs are just a mystery to me though. Your channel has helped me so much with other set up issues. Especially the one where the a bolt on neck angle was off. From the factory my stranberg neck was tilted making the low E flop off the edge of the guitar while the high E had much more space to the edge.. Never thought of why that was until I realized sometimes builds are not perfect. All the best A
one string holding the other on the bridge is nothing more than factory's making their ends somewhere. You don't need it. What you need is going through the hole on top twice, it secures the string on place. Dont cut any string, you need to wind all string length on your tuner. And relax, take it easy, nylon strings will always be out of tune the next day.
to prove that you can handle without one string holding the other, I'm working in guitar shop, and I've seen a lot of top notch Hispanic classics,which strings were winded independently, the only thing you should care of is the knot being behind the edge of the bridge
String stretching is even more important with nylon. Typically you wouldn’t change strings the day of a performance. Usually you want a day or two for things to get settled
I really like your studio set here. It looks like a Public TV show. Thank you for compressing your audio on the podcast. I have a hearing disability (don't all guitarists?) where I have trouble with people who speak at two volumes. The compression boosts your little asides to be the same volume as your discussion. The mackie update has been awesome!! Love the show - Just want mo!
I did not know about the pins on the acoustic guitar. I thought they caught on the bottom? Glad that I know the proper way now. Thanks for that info on the bridge pins for the acoustic. Been playing since 1982. I agree with 90% of the stuff you said about restringing there's a couple little things I do different when stretching but most of the stuff you said is the way I've been doing it the last 25! I do stretch my strings a little different, What I will do is tune them up a half pitch higher and then play on them for a little bit and they slowly work into tune probably within 15 or 20 minutes I keep retuning every couple of minutes Play a lot of leads and a lot of pull-offs and some heavy-handed rhythm. I also found that when using a Floyd Rose equipped guitar to buy titanium string block inserts. They hold the tuning like nobody's business 10 times better than the regular stock ones. They're $30 for a set of six. Also stretching with a Floyd Rose is pretty simple especially if you use the bar obviously!😊 Another thing higher quality strings stretch and stay in tune much quicker I found that the NYXLs and the M- Steels work fantastic and only require minimal stretching. Great video Phil Keep up the good work. Because of you I "know my gear"!!!!!!!🔥
Stretching the strings is something that I think is way overlooked by a lot of guitarists, myself included for a while. I changed the strings on my cheap Jackson JS-23, cheap plastic nut and cheap non locking tuners and stretched them more so than normal. When wrapping the strings around the posts (in my case, I do 2 wraps for low E and A, 3 wraps for D and G, 4 wraps for B and E, I was taught this when I first learned over 2 decades ago), the winds don't always pinch together completely and lock the string in place at the hole. Stretching the strings will tighten the winds and make the strings less susceptible to loosening and causing tuning instability. I can leave that guitar sitting for a bit, pick it up and still be in tune with no flat notes. Great video as always!
Agreed - I never used to pay attention to the wrap count until a recent build kept falling out of tune and I realized the strings were slipping out of tune due to too few wraps. A fresh set of strings wrapped 2 to 3 times on the E and A and 4 to 5 times on the higher strings solved it, and proved my new Fender tuners are in fact up to snuff and staying in tune.
?Hi Phil I really appreciate your channel. I am not a great player but call myself a guitar enthusiast because I Love the look, the smell, the touch of guitar. My wife goes to art galleries and covers her walls. My walls are guitars. AND you can play my art! This is a comment more for you since you say you like light guitars. Have you ever run into the Epiphone Wilshire, especially the 66 reissue with satin finish. I stumbled upon it in my local shop one day and wound up playing it more over the years than my Gibson LP, Fender Strats, Martin custom shops, etc. I have the black model and have new tuners, pickguard, SD pickups, ebony control knobs…. But the thing that sold me immediately was the small size and weight - I think about 6 pounds. The Batwing headstock is killer too. They have released several other versions over the years but the 66 reissue is the best. It’s so uncommon I know you can’t review but thought you should know about it I know you are getting unbearably hot down there but climate change is making Montana more livable - go north young man!
For beginners, as far as 80/20 or phospher bronze goes, your guitar will tell you what it likes if you listen to it. I run 80/20 on my cedar topped guitar (for a brighter sound) and phos bronze on the spruce topped one. (it’s already bright enough) That seems to get the best sound out of both of them.
@@paulkline3011 Yeah it could¥ be I’m just easy to please. The weird thing is I prefer DAddario strings on one guitar and Martin strings one the other. I wouldn’t think it would be that big o& a difference but there you have it. Strings 🙄
As always great content Phil! I want to add one mistake that I've encountered many times through the years. It's the wrong string types for the guitar. I've seen many poor classical guitars (guitars that should have nylon strings on them) been strung with steel strings (strings for acoustic/c&w guitars). That is a great way to ruin a nice classical guitar 🙁
Great suggestions. My only add on would be to not use any peg puller. Changing all at once. Cut all the old strings then reach into the sound hole and lightly push the peg out. And if its stubborn, pinch it and give a slight spin. Yeah, I don't want to slip with a peg puller and scratch the finish or worse break a pin. Cheers
Good info for beginners and those who rarely change their strings. If you own more than one or two guitars, I highly recommend buying a Roadie 2 or 3. One of the best guitar gifts I’ve ever received. Super cool for automatic tuning, and quick changes between alternate tuning, but the winding and unwinding function makes string changing a breeze. I can change out a set of string in a fraction of the time it takes with one of those manual winders. With the app you can easily set up and name special tunings, like “Keith Richard’s 5 String Open G” or “Down a 1/2 Step for Storing Martin”. And I’ve used the heck out of my Roadie 2, for over 2 years now and it’s still going strong. Super cool and useful.
had never heard of the Roadie. I have 11 instruments on the wall behind me with 6 different tunings, but I'd buy it just for my mandolin. I HATE CHANGING STRINGS ON A MANDOLIN.
Thanks for straightening out the cacophony of advice I’ve gotten over the years. I’m good now. I trust you and your reputation. I believe you completely. That’s a great feeling. So yeah, thanks for real.
Hi Phil, great tips on tuning a 6 string. I never thought of shaving the pegs. Great advice! I do have a request for you since this was a great video, could you do a video about tuning tips for 12 string guitars? Thanks for your efforts and support.
Hi Philip, I have a request, it seems some small youtube channels have been receiving those Fesley guitars from AMAZON under the 200 tag price, would be nice if you review a couple of them (specially the ESP lookalike) since it would be a way more reputable and serious review coming from you, thanks in advance!
When I re-string a guitar, I tune the low E first, then use the 5th fret method to get the other strings "close", then I use the tuner. I never miss the octave that way.
What about locking tuners on an electric? Should you leave enough slack in the string to wrap around .5 -1 revolutions, or can you just stick it in the tuner, lock it down, and tighten to pitch with half a revolution?
I do it the set holes of pegs at between 1 or 2 oclovk poke string through lock it and tune up. Ends up about 3/4 wind on peg. That's for 6 in line type
Id say, if its a floyd rose, wrap it at least 2-3x. So if it breaks at the saddle, just unwind a bit, and lock it back in the bridge and retune. Itll be like the break never happened. Lot easier than putting in a new string
I always leave one full wrap. That way if I need to significantly de-tune the guitar ( to give some space for a spoke wheel truss rod adjustment, for example) there is room to do that.
@@keithangstadt4950 I like this! It provides the benefit of detuning a bit but avoids the wraps that cause tuning instability. Now I just need to figure out how much slack that equates to for each string!
Hi Phillip, Excellent video! Thank you! I've been stringing my guitars your way for over fifty years, or maybe you're doing it my way. lol. I have thirty guitars. I string them ALL with #9 Earnie Ball Super Slinky strings. Why? Because that's the way "I" like it. I know, I know, I hear it all the time. But after seven years of playing lead guitar in a rock band and thirty years as a Christian soloist, we each have to wear what works for us. Merry Christmas. Shalom/gw
Good stuff as usual. Although, surprised you didn’t discuss and show what’s going on as the string wraps around the post. But I guess people can watch one of your other well detailed vids for that.
I heard BB King in an interview say the old time blues men would wrap the whole string so if the string broke they had enough length to retie it.(Thy didn’t have guitar centers all over back then,strings weren’t easily available)
Phil, I'm along time viewer of your channel and I always see you as guitar tech and former guitar store owner. So watching you making video in your workshop is more pleasing than in your office with your dozens of guitars collection. It's just preference. I still gonna watch your video even if you make it in front of green screen. Anyway, I like this video. Changing string looks like a simple process, but if I more know tips and pitfall, I can change it faster, more stable tuning, and prevent string breakage. Will you make another video like this for FR type bridge ?
I am on a journey of learning the guitar in my 40s. I do have a couple of questions. Is it normal for an acoustic guitar to have a higher action than on an electric guitar? How high is too high? Is there a recommended height for acoustics?
I'm always scared of breaking the high strings, so I put the string in place tighten it a little so that it doesn't go out of place but don't tune it. I then do the others string then I go back to the first oen to tune it. Sometimes I'll have to go back 3 or 4 times before I fully tune the high strings.
You might make some enemies if you use any the knot tying methods and then someone else needs to change a string for you. Some people absolutely hate the knot. Try putting the first wrap over the string as it comes thru the hole in the peg, and at least two wraps under the string. The lower wraps will lock up against the string and the first wrap.
Hi Phil. Happy Holidays! Are the clip on tuners accurate? Been using an older Korg plug in tuner thinkin it's more accurate. Plus, the plug in seems to have a harder time when in "guitar" mode rather than chromatic. Advice? Thank you.
I have an old Peavey t-15 I bought when I was a teenager. It doesn't have a hole through the post but slotted with an opening down from the top to tuck the end in. I would struggle to restring thinking I had to start the end of it from there, bend down and wrap all while hoping the ball end never came out of the bridge. I of course gave up on trying to do that years ago but now I wonder if that was designed to be that way and do you have any idea if it is, then how tf are you supposed to get it to work like that?
You're spot on about not cutting the string as soon as you first put each one of them on. If you need to take the string off to adjust something for whatever reason, you're creating a nightmare for yourself. This is why the Planet Waves auto-trim tuners are a bad design imo.
My number one recommendation is to ditch your traditional tuners and install locking tuners. With locking tuners, you just pull the string through, lock the string in place, and tune up. I put locking tuners on all of my guitars, regardless of price.
The thumbnail for this video gave me flashbacks to when i first started playing guitar. All my string wound like 200 times around the peg. Thanks for the laugh 😅
Its not required, but, my floyd, when it does break strings, always does it at the saddle. So with 3-4 windings you have more than enough to unwind and lock the string back in. Otherwise youre stuck making a unscheduled string change, when all you needed just a couple more winds and couldve just popped it right back in
I always take all the strings off and clean the frett board. You can do it 1 at a time, either way doesn't matter to the guitar. Its easier to retune one at a time, but with a tuner app you can tap the note for the pitch and get there pretty quickly.
Wow. I just had a customer bring in a Firch guitar that he had managed to split the top. Otherwise they are very nice guitars. He should have stored it with a humidifier and he should not have thumped on the top like it's a kick drum.
You didn't address the controversial topic of whether to tie the string or not :) (I.e., make the first wind on the tuner above the string and the rest below vs. all below).
Yes, I agree-- I watched the video to see if this would be mentioned or clarified, if possible. Years ago, long before RUclips, a guitar repairman taught me to "lock" the strings. I see "experts" on YT videos still recommending this method, and others insisting it's completely wrong. Now I'm just confused!
Steel strings can't stretch, if they did the metal would get thinner and more likely to break. What you're doing is pulling the tuner windings tight. And btw, you can't put the peg in the bridge before the string 🤣 8:45
Stretching strings : my advice is do not pull the string upwards , it can break using too much force . Push it down near the bridge pickup . Push down and tune , push down and tune , repeat until the tone does not move anymore . Attaching it to the tuner : I use the Gibson method , a self tightening knot , I do not want or need many raps and after stretching the string will not slip any more . Some give the string a couple of inches slack , like Philip showed , then make the first couple of raps by hand before turning the tuner . Not good : the first couple of raps done by hand will twist the string around its axel , you don't want that . Also : when de-tuning for removal it is advisable to do this not one string at a time but spread over the six strings , giving each string a couple of turns successively . Re-tuning is the same : gradually bring all strings up to tension together in stead of one at the time .
The new "Set" is really cool and looks great!! Something I really appreciate these days is "tuners"! In the early 70's everyone changed strings during the week, but we were all out of pitch the next weekend! Even with "tuning forks" and/or "pitch pipes". It took a long time to get right! About 1978 I bought a "Korg tuner". It was 4"X8" and 1" thick. It would emit a tone, and had a delicate needle gauge you had to align with a mirror backing, and zero to the note you select with a dial. I paid 200 1978 dollars for it, about $950 today!! It still took a lot of time, but no more arguing who was in-pitch and who was not!! Today, I prefer the TC PolyTune and UniTune clip on. But there are dozens of great ones, including a Korg for $15.00! LOL Sorry to ramble on here. If you got this far thanks for reading my dumb story. 8) --gary
Dude, a smartphone with GuitarTuna app. The most precise thing on the planet Earth. You're welcome
Wow 950! That’s a whole another guitar lol
@@martianmurray I didn't buy too many new guitars back then. We didn't have much $$. But I did buy a new Guild D35 Burst in 1972. (Spruce/mahogany like a Martin D18) It was $290 w/a hard shell case. We were stuck playing guitars from the 50's and 60's. 8) Yes, if I knew then.... LOL --gary
@@gtr1952 There wasn't really a vintage guitar scene back in the sixties, just second-hand. They're now the vintage guitars. I had one of those Korg tuners, still have it actually. Prior to that it was the dreaded pitch pipes. Regards.
ahhh beveling the peg end.... I'm always learning something from you Phil!
Regarding winder, I recommend either one with a rubbered tuning key slot or to use a cloth to protect the side of your guitar's headstock. Cheap winders may damage headstock finish leaving circular scratches around tuning keys.
Great tips! Only thing I do differently is I bend the string when I'm at the right length before I start winding so it helps grab. Great video!
I love locking tuners!
All of those windings hurt my eyes! Great stuff Phil.
Fabulous advice, thank you. Intonation obsessives may have me hanged for this, but I tune playing 12th fret harmonics measured by a standard Snark tuner - particularly useful when the tuner occasionally fails to respond to an open string, I've never known it fail to grab one of those clear, ringing harmonics.
"The Chop" method! I'm definitely using this. I can never get the proper wounds on the pegs even after decades.
Excellent timing for all the new guitarists starting in the coming days.
I know you never cover nylon string guitars but I would love to see your way to re-string one. Its always a battle to keep my nylon in tune after I change strings. They always slip on the peg I don't really know how to get them caught. How about some top stick on the peg hahaha. I have the bridge wrap down and that always looks pretty. I always start on the low E and the next string will hold the tail of the previous string. The nylon pegs are just a mystery to me though. Your channel has helped me so much with other set up issues. Especially the one where the a bolt on neck angle was off.
From the factory my stranberg neck was tilted making the low E flop off the edge of the guitar while the high E had much more space to the edge.. Never thought of why that was until I realized sometimes builds are not perfect. All the best A
one string holding the other on the bridge is nothing more than factory's making their ends somewhere. You don't need it. What you need is going through the hole on top twice, it secures the string on place. Dont cut any string, you need to wind all string length on your tuner. And relax, take it easy, nylon strings will always be out of tune the next day.
to prove that you can handle without one string holding the other, I'm working in guitar shop, and I've seen a lot of top notch Hispanic classics,which strings were winded independently, the only thing you should care of is the knot being behind the edge of the bridge
String stretching is even more important with nylon. Typically you wouldn’t change strings the day of a performance. Usually you want a day or two for things to get settled
Great video PHil me personally I always change all my string even when I just break one.
As a routinier this video is great to see, just refreshing the tips and tricks, thank you Phillip. Greets from Belgium, Simon
I really like your studio set here. It looks like a Public TV show. Thank you for compressing your audio on the podcast. I have a hearing disability (don't all guitarists?) where I have trouble with people who speak at two volumes. The compression boosts your little asides to be the same volume as your discussion. The mackie update has been awesome!! Love the show - Just want mo!
⚓️ Thanks Phil 🌈 additionally ♨️ for annual string changes ~ like most beginner infrequent string changes 🇺🇸 check tuning keys for Wobblies 🤠 clean the frets 🥸 condition the fretboard 🎶 lubricant nut slots…if needed 🎸
Thanks Phil
I did not know about the pins on the acoustic guitar. I thought they caught on the bottom? Glad that I know the proper way now. Thanks for that info on the bridge pins for the acoustic. Been playing since 1982. I agree with 90% of the stuff you said about restringing there's a couple little things I do different when stretching but most of the stuff you said is the way I've been doing it the last 25! I do stretch my strings a little different, What I will do is tune them up a half pitch higher and then play on them for a little bit and they slowly work into tune probably within 15 or 20 minutes I keep retuning every couple of minutes Play a lot of leads and a lot of pull-offs and some heavy-handed rhythm. I also found that when using a Floyd Rose equipped guitar to buy titanium string block inserts. They hold the tuning like nobody's business 10 times better than the regular stock ones. They're $30 for a set of six. Also stretching with a Floyd Rose is pretty simple especially if you use the bar obviously!😊 Another thing higher quality strings stretch and stay in tune much quicker I found that the NYXLs and the M- Steels work fantastic and only require minimal stretching. Great video Phil Keep up the good work. Because of you I "know my gear"!!!!!!!🔥
Stretching the strings is something that I think is way overlooked by a lot of guitarists, myself included for a while. I changed the strings on my cheap Jackson JS-23, cheap plastic nut and cheap non locking tuners and stretched them more so than normal. When wrapping the strings around the posts (in my case, I do 2 wraps for low E and A, 3 wraps for D and G, 4 wraps for B and E, I was taught this when I first learned over 2 decades ago), the winds don't always pinch together completely and lock the string in place at the hole. Stretching the strings will tighten the winds and make the strings less susceptible to loosening and causing tuning instability. I can leave that guitar sitting for a bit, pick it up and still be in tune with no flat notes.
Great video as always!
Agreed - I never used to pay attention to the wrap count until a recent build kept falling out of tune and I realized the strings were slipping out of tune due to too few wraps. A fresh set of strings wrapped 2 to 3 times on the E and A and 4 to 5 times on the higher strings solved it, and proved my new Fender tuners are in fact up to snuff and staying in tune.
Great video. I always use a 440 tuning fork. Tune the A string harmonic, then tune the other strings to the A.
@7:28 bridge pins! had no idea
Happy holidays Phillip and thanks for all the content you gave us this yeat
?Hi Phil
I really appreciate your channel. I am not a great player but call myself a guitar enthusiast because I Love the look, the smell, the touch of guitar. My wife goes to art galleries and covers her walls. My walls are guitars.
AND you can play my art! This is a comment more for you since you say you like light guitars. Have you ever run into the Epiphone Wilshire, especially the 66 reissue with satin finish. I stumbled upon it in my local shop one day and wound up playing it more over the years than my Gibson LP, Fender Strats, Martin custom shops, etc. I have the black model and have new tuners, pickguard, SD pickups, ebony control knobs…. But the thing that sold me immediately was the small size and weight - I think about 6 pounds. The Batwing headstock is killer too. They have released several other versions over the years but the 66 reissue is the best. It’s so uncommon I know you can’t review but thought you should know about it I know you are getting unbearably hot down there but climate change is making Montana more livable - go north young man!
For beginners, as far as 80/20 or phospher bronze goes, your guitar will tell you what it likes if you listen to it. I run 80/20 on my cedar topped guitar (for a brighter sound) and phos bronze on the spruce topped one. (it’s already bright enough) That seems to get the best sound out of both of them.
Ok. I've been playing guitar for 35 years and I still really haven't figured out what strings I like. I'm always going back and forth. 🤔🤣
@@paulkline3011
Yeah it could¥ be I’m just easy to please. The weird thing is I prefer DAddario strings on one guitar and Martin strings one the other. I wouldn’t think it would be that big o& a difference but there you have it. Strings 🙄
would love more pro tips in the new studio-shop
As always great content Phil! I want to add one mistake that I've encountered many times through the years. It's the wrong string types for the guitar. I've seen many poor classical guitars (guitars that should have nylon strings on them) been strung with steel strings (strings for acoustic/c&w guitars). That is a great way to ruin a nice classical guitar 🙁
I love using a string stretcher. It makes it super fast.
Great suggestions. My only add on would be to not use any peg puller. Changing all at once. Cut all the old strings then reach into the sound hole and lightly push the peg out. And if its stubborn, pinch it and give a slight spin. Yeah, I don't want to slip with a peg puller and scratch the finish or worse break a pin. Cheers
Thanks! Appreciate the video
Good info for beginners and those who rarely change their strings.
If you own more than one or two guitars, I highly recommend buying a Roadie 2 or 3. One of the best guitar gifts I’ve ever received. Super cool for automatic tuning, and quick changes between alternate tuning, but the winding and unwinding function makes string changing a breeze. I can change out a set of string in a fraction of the time it takes with one of those manual winders. With the app you can easily set up and name special tunings, like “Keith Richard’s 5 String Open G” or “Down a 1/2 Step for Storing Martin”. And I’ve used the heck out of my Roadie 2, for over 2 years now and it’s still going strong. Super cool and useful.
had never heard of the Roadie. I have 11 instruments on the wall behind me with 6 different tunings, but I'd buy it just for my mandolin. I HATE CHANGING STRINGS ON A MANDOLIN.
Thanks for straightening out the cacophony of advice I’ve gotten over the years. I’m good now. I trust you and your reputation. I believe you completely. That’s a great feeling. So yeah, thanks for real.
I use those strings. Try black beautys, or the acoustic electric ones. They are great.
Hi Phil, great tips on tuning a 6 string. I never thought of shaving the pegs. Great advice! I do have a request for you since this was a great video, could you do a video about tuning tips for 12 string guitars? Thanks for your efforts and support.
Hi Philip, I have a request, it seems some small youtube channels have been receiving those Fesley guitars from AMAZON under the 200 tag price, would be nice if you review a couple of them (specially the ESP lookalike) since it would be a way more reputable and serious review coming from you, thanks in advance!
When I re-string a guitar, I tune the low E first, then use the 5th fret method to get the other strings "close", then I use the tuner. I never miss the octave that way.
What about locking tuners on an electric? Should you leave enough slack in the string to wrap around .5 -1 revolutions, or can you just stick it in the tuner, lock it down, and tighten to pitch with half a revolution?
I do it the set holes of pegs at between 1 or 2 oclovk
poke string through lock it and tune up.
Ends up about 3/4 wind on peg.
That's for 6 in line type
Id say, if its a floyd rose, wrap it at least 2-3x. So if it breaks at the saddle, just unwind a bit, and lock it back in the bridge and retune. Itll be like the break never happened. Lot easier than putting in a new string
I always leave one full wrap. That way if I need to significantly de-tune the guitar ( to give some space for a spoke wheel truss rod adjustment, for example) there is room to do that.
@@keithangstadt4950 I like this! It provides the benefit of detuning a bit but avoids the wraps that cause tuning instability. Now I just need to figure out how much slack that equates to for each string!
Thanks, Phil, for the great tips. This type of video is always good.
Thanks Phil....best string changing, common sense video on UTube !
Thanks, Phil!
As always Phil, thank you for the knowledge!
Hi Phillip, Excellent video! Thank you! I've been stringing my guitars your way for over fifty years, or maybe you're doing it my way. lol. I have thirty guitars. I string them ALL with #9 Earnie Ball Super Slinky strings. Why? Because that's the way "I" like it. I know, I know, I hear it all the time. But after seven years of playing lead guitar in a rock band and thirty years as a Christian soloist, we each have to wear what works for us. Merry Christmas. Shalom/gw
I highly agree on the winder. I didn't have one for the first 5 or 6 years of having a guitar and MAN, was I missing out 😂
This is the most best lesson that i have ever learned! You are the bomb! 😊
Good stuff as usual. Although, surprised you didn’t discuss and show what’s going on as the string wraps around the post. But I guess people can watch one of your other well detailed vids for that.
Thanks
Really great video. You can never have enough tips. 🙋♂️👏👏🇬🇧
How sweet was that! Love that beat. Nice solo. Looking forward to your future covers.
I heard BB King in an interview say the old time blues men would wrap the whole string so if the string broke they had enough length to retie it.(Thy didn’t have guitar centers all over back then,strings weren’t easily available)
Thank you Phillp
Phil, I'm along time viewer of your channel and I always see you as guitar tech and former guitar store owner. So watching you making video in your workshop is more pleasing than in your office with your dozens of guitars collection. It's just preference. I still gonna watch your video even if you make it in front of green screen.
Anyway, I like this video. Changing string looks like a simple process, but if I more know tips and pitfall, I can change it faster, more stable tuning, and prevent string breakage. Will you make another video like this for FR type bridge ?
I am on a journey of learning the guitar in my 40s.
I do have a couple of questions. Is it normal for an acoustic guitar to have a higher action than on an electric guitar? How high is too high? Is there a recommended height for acoustics?
HILARIOUS thumbnail! Thank you Phillip!!
As always... great stuff.. You going to NAMM? If so, which booth?
I'm always scared of breaking the high strings, so I put the string in place tighten it a little so that it doesn't go out of place but don't tune it. I then do the others string then I go back to the first oen to tune it. Sometimes I'll have to go back 3 or 4 times before I fully tune the high strings.
Can you do a Video of you putting DR Legend Flats on your Vader short scale bass? That way I can use it to put those strings on mine.
I always put new strings on my four guitars at the beginning of the year and always change them at the end of the year…It’s almost change them time 😎🎸
I have extra high e strings because I'll occasionally break them when I stretch them.
Have you ever done a review over Patrick Eggle guitars?
Another great video . Thanks for another year of great content. Happy holidays !
Great video Phil, i learnt from Taylor's video on changing strings, very useful
I didn't see the actual method of wrapping and winding the string. Do you double back and tuck the end under so it is captive?
If you have 3 - 4 wraps, it's not necessary to capture it. I used to do that as I used less wraps for some reason...
You might make some enemies if you use any the knot tying methods and then someone else needs to change a string for you. Some people absolutely hate the knot. Try putting the first wrap over the string as it comes thru the hole in the peg, and at least two wraps under the string. The lower wraps will lock up against the string and the first wrap.
Dude, i’ve been stringing them for forty years, so I know how. I clicked and commented to say your thumbnail cracked me up. 😂
Hi Phil. Happy Holidays! Are the clip on tuners accurate? Been using an older Korg plug in tuner thinkin it's more accurate. Plus, the plug in seems to have a harder time when in "guitar" mode rather than chromatic. Advice? Thank you.
I have an old Peavey t-15 I bought when I was a teenager. It doesn't have a hole through the post but slotted with an opening down from the top to tuck the end in. I would struggle to restring thinking I had to start the end of it from there, bend down and wrap all while hoping the ball end never came out of the bridge. I of course gave up on trying to do that years ago but now I wonder if that was designed to be that way and do you have any idea if it is, then how tf are you supposed to get it to work like that?
Awesome video have a wonderful day ❤😊
Love from The Music Store 🎉❤
Number #5 Problem with the wound G. You can easily tune the b up to e.
You're spot on about not cutting the string as soon as you first put each one of them on. If you need to take the string off to adjust something for whatever reason, you're creating a nightmare for yourself. This is why the Planet Waves auto-trim tuners are a bad design imo.
My number one recommendation is to ditch your traditional tuners and install locking tuners. With locking tuners, you just pull the string through, lock the string in place, and tune up. I put locking tuners on all of my guitars, regardless of price.
not so easy, thin strings are in need to be wind couple rings, but its sharktornadosoultakingaaaaaaabehindapocalipsetheyseemurderkillin
I do the same thing. Have a squire and an even cheaper Ibanez. I still put locking tuners on them. Makes changes quick and easy.
Your shop is nice man!
The thumbnail for this video gave me flashbacks to when i first started playing guitar. All my string wound like 200 times around the peg. Thanks for the laugh 😅
Great video!
You should have mentioned locking tuners do not require 3-4 wraps around the tuning post. Or maybe quickly demonstrated a locking tuner also.
Its not required, but, my floyd, when it does break strings, always does it at the saddle. So with 3-4 windings you have more than enough to unwind and lock the string back in. Otherwise youre stuck making a unscheduled string change, when all you needed just a couple more winds and couldve just popped it right back in
I use to boil my electric strings. Idk if it worked or not. I know I broke more strings after ??
And wind under, not over itself while you tighten.
The orderly arrangement of Phil's repair gear makes my work bench look like a crack den.
String gauge you are using can be one of the common mistakes when replacing new set of strings.
sooooo,,,,, with acoustics. All strings off? or one string at a time.
I always take all the strings off and clean the frett board. You can do it 1 at a time, either way doesn't matter to the guitar. Its easier to retune one at a time, but with a tuner app you can tap the note for the pitch and get there pretty quickly.
I can’t help it, been playing for a long time and always use electric strings on my acoustic
Wow. I just had a customer bring in a Firch guitar that he had managed to split the top. Otherwise they are very nice guitars. He should have stored it with a humidifier and he should not have thumped on the top like it's a kick drum.
Wow ... string sets with a bonus high E string. How about 12- string sets with bonus high G strings? Like, multiple? 😅
But I screw up when I wrap the wire around the tuner and then forget if I go over under or through! I better what the other video too
You didn't address the controversial topic of whether to tie the string or not :) (I.e., make the first wind on the tuner above the string and the rest below vs. all below).
Yes, I agree-- I watched the video to see if this would be mentioned or clarified, if possible. Years ago, long before RUclips, a guitar repairman taught me to "lock" the strings. I see "experts" on YT videos still recommending this method, and others insisting it's completely wrong. Now I'm just confused!
Steel strings can't stretch, if they did the metal would get thinner and more likely to break. What you're doing is pulling the tuner windings tight.
And btw, you can't put the peg in the bridge before the string 🤣 8:45
Nylon strings please 👍🏴🇬🇧
D’Addario is saturating ads. Nice just to see you use an alternative.
That guitar looks HUGE in the thumbnail 😂
My main mistake is waiting to long between restringing my guitars.
I just play stringless now. way easier
🤘
lol when I break a string i don't change the whole set of strings...
Stretching strings : my advice is do not pull the string upwards , it can break using too much force . Push it down near the bridge pickup . Push down and tune , push down and tune , repeat until the tone does not move anymore .
Attaching it to the tuner : I use the Gibson method , a self tightening knot , I do not want or need many raps and after stretching the string will not slip any more .
Some give the string a couple of inches slack , like Philip showed , then make the first couple of raps by hand before turning the tuner . Not good : the first couple of raps done by hand will twist the string around its axel , you don't want that .
Also : when de-tuning for removal it is advisable to do this not one string at a time but spread over the six strings , giving each string a couple of turns successively . Re-tuning is the same : gradually bring all strings up to tension together in stead of one at the time .
Thanks for this video. Good tips.
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BB King would wrap the whole string around the tuning key, its not wrong 😂
Bring back Dean Markley original strings!
I believe it's pronounced 'Furk' rather than 'Furch.'
Great thumbnail. Now go get some locking tuners.
laughs in strandberg
More adverting shit 😡
Not having locking mechanics is quite common mistake 🍷🧐🤌