This video shows working on an electric dryer, so no gas involved. Actually, your point is valid, since someone with a gas dryer could still use the video, so mentioning turning off the gas when working on a gas dryer is a really good idea. Thanks for mentioning it.
I appreciate this video young man you're pretty good at explaining things I'm a very mechanical guy my dryer is the same and it hums when I hit the start button I took it apart and cleaned it. Nothing's changed but I didn't get into taking the drum out yet that's next thanks again
You're welcome. If it just hums, it could be the motor shaft bearing is getting stuck, or the windings on the motor could be going bad. Try spinning the motor pulley by hand after removing the belt and drum. If it is hard to turn or stuck, try using some machine oil on the shaft where the bearings are, see if you can work it in and loosen it up. Might make it work for awhile longer for you!
Good vid so far as it goes, but once apart it'd be very helpful to add "arrows" to that still (or stills) to show where the thermistor and thermostats are located. My machine is a model SDE4606AYH on which the continuously variable temperature control has no effect -- the dryer just runs on high heat ("regular") or air fluff, nothing in between. My guess is the cycling thermostat has failed "closed" or the signal to it from the temperature control rheostat has failed. Air flow is fine as checked at the exit @ the outside of the house. Maytag has seen fit to purge the service manuals and schematics for older dryers from their records - pretty damn disappointing for a company that advertises hard on the longevity of their products (and considering how cheap data storage is now!!!)
This is my dryer model. It recently started making a metallic grinding sound with a full load of laundry. The sound goes away when I run it with a half load, so seems something to do with weight. Is there a particular part/issue that I should look for when disassembling? Thanks!
@@matthewmolnar2230 Yes, I had to replace the felt liner on the inside of the door. It wasnt missing or worn down anywhere except in the middle where the edge of the drum barrel had sliced through and was scraping as it spun (with a heavy enough load). Replacing the felt was annoying but it fixed the issue completely and that noise stopped. Hope that helps!
There are two. The main fuse is located on the blower wheel housing. When it pops, it wont run at all. The other one, called the high temperature cut out fuse, is located on the side of the heat element housing. When it pops, it will still run, but with no heat. Each has a thermostat next to it. When the fuse pops, always replace it and the thermostat next to it at the same time. Usually if it got hot enough to pop the fuse, the thermostat failed to cut off the heat at the proper temperature.
Total rookie here , but I'm replacing a belt on my gas Maytag that looks a lot like this model. When I put the drum back in I let it rest on the heating element and gave it a spin by hand (oops). Is that going to cause any issues? I'm still waiting for the new belt so I have a few days to worry about it.
That shouldnt have damaged anything. The coils of the element are on the inside of the metal heat element housing, so the drum rubbing on that by hand should not have harmed anything. Perhaps look at the wires attached to the fuse and thermostat on the side of the element and make sure they are all still attached and not bent at the terminals. Once you put the front bulkhead and door back on, spin by hand to make sure it is clear of everything and you should be fine.
Usually there is something reducing or blocking air flow when this happens. You have to have air flow to remove the moisture. So check for lint blockage in the vent hose behind the dryer, at the wall where the hose attaches, and check the vent outlet on other side of the wall to make sure the door or louvers still open and are not blocked with anything. Also, sometimes the blower wheel inside the dryer can be loose where it attaches to the motor shaft, and will no longer spin up to full speed. If so, then it will need a new blower wheel.
Its very small, 2 wire fuse located somewhere on the bulkhead near the top of the heat riser. It's item number 12 on the diagram for the gas carrying components for this model.
That model number doesn't show to be good on Sears website as well as Reliable Parts website. Perhaps there is a typo, let me know. But, on most performa models the thermal fuse is on the side of the heat element can and the thermostat is on top of the heat element can. The heat element can on them is usually just below the top deck inthe middle of the rear bulkhead. So you hve to open the top deck to get to it all
Can the heating element be taken out without taking the rear bulkhead out? I am to the point at the end of the vid and I'm about to test to see if its the element or the thermostat thingy (technical term).
In this style dryer, you do not have to remove the rear bulkhead. The element is mounted at the bottom left corner of the bulkhead. Remove the screws that attach it to the bulkhead, and slide it down and out of the dryer. Hope this helps!
If it works again after it cools down, then the motor overload protection switch is probably getting tripped. If that's the case, it's usually the motor that is going bad. If it wont restart at all after it cools down, and still doesn't work, then a lot of things could have gone bad, such as the fuse and thermostat on the blower box housing, or the door switch, or a broken belt, or even a tripped circuit breaker.
What about the gas valve? you did not close the valve.
This video shows working on an electric dryer, so no gas involved. Actually, your point is valid, since someone with a gas dryer could still use the video, so mentioning turning off the gas when working on a gas dryer is a really good idea. Thanks for mentioning it.
I never would have figured this out. Thank you!!!
Thank you very much for posting this! It was spot on.
Excellent! Thank you.
Thanks. Was way better than buying a new dryer
thanks, Ken. Worked beautifully!
You are welcome!
I appreciate this video young man you're pretty good at explaining things I'm a very mechanical guy my dryer is the same and it hums when I hit the start button I took it apart and cleaned it. Nothing's changed but I didn't get into taking the drum out yet that's next thanks again
You're welcome. If it just hums, it could be the motor shaft bearing is getting stuck, or the windings on the motor could be going bad. Try spinning the motor pulley by hand after removing the belt and drum. If it is hard to turn or stuck, try using some machine oil on the shaft where the bearings are, see if you can work it in and loosen it up. Might make it work for awhile longer for you!
Ugh,very cool video, very informative, l dread working on appliances..no $$$ for repair man
very helpful! thank you, Ken!
Thank you
Thank you sir, you helped me. I'm sending you some love
You're welcome, glad the video helped you! And I appreciate anything you send!!
Thank you for this video... there’s too many designs hard to find how to open it up.
You are welcome!
Good vid so far as it goes, but once apart it'd be very helpful to add "arrows" to that still (or stills) to show where the thermistor and thermostats are located. My machine is a model SDE4606AYH on which the continuously variable temperature control has no effect -- the dryer just runs on high heat ("regular") or air fluff, nothing in between. My guess is the cycling thermostat has failed "closed" or the signal to it from the temperature control rheostat has failed. Air flow is fine as checked at the exit @ the outside of the house.
Maytag has seen fit to purge the service manuals and schematics for older dryers from their records - pretty damn disappointing for a company that advertises hard on the longevity of their products (and considering how cheap data storage is now!!!)
This is a lif saver video
Thanks
You're Welcome!
thank you very very much. great vid.
Thanks
You're welcome
Can the gasket in the back of the drum be replaced?
This is my dryer model. It recently started making a metallic grinding sound with a full load of laundry. The sound goes away when I run it with a half load, so seems something to do with weight. Is there a particular part/issue that I should look for when disassembling? Thanks!
We just started having a similar problem. Did you get it fixed?
@@matthewmolnar2230 Yes, I had to replace the felt liner on the inside of the door. It wasnt missing or worn down anywhere except in the middle where the edge of the drum barrel had sliced through and was scraping as it spun (with a heavy enough load). Replacing the felt was annoying but it fixed the issue completely and that noise stopped. Hope that helps!
I have the same dryer. It won't turn on. I wonder where the fuse and high limit thermostats are located
on this model they are on the blower housing
My heater is in front, do I need to take it apart?
Thermal fuse on this type of dryer is located where ??
There are two. The main fuse is located on the blower wheel housing. When it pops, it wont run at all. The other one, called the high temperature cut out fuse, is located on the side of the heat element housing. When it pops, it will still run, but with no heat. Each has a thermostat next to it. When the fuse pops, always replace it and the thermostat next to it at the same time. Usually if it got hot enough to pop the fuse, the thermostat failed to cut off the heat at the proper temperature.
Total rookie here , but I'm replacing a belt on my gas Maytag that looks a lot like this model. When I put the drum back in I let it rest on the heating element and gave it a spin by hand (oops). Is that going to cause any issues? I'm still waiting for the new belt so I have a few days to worry about it.
That shouldnt have damaged anything. The coils of the element are on the inside of the metal heat element housing, so the drum rubbing on that by hand should not have harmed anything. Perhaps look at the wires attached to the fuse and thermostat on the side of the element and make sure they are all still attached and not bent at the terminals. Once you put the front bulkhead and door back on, spin by hand to make sure it is clear of everything and you should be fine.
Hi sir, my dryer (Maytag) is heating but not drying. What could be the problem please?
Usually there is something reducing or blocking air flow when this happens. You have to have air flow to remove the moisture. So check for lint blockage in the vent hose behind the dryer, at the wall where the hose attaches, and check the vent outlet on other side of the wall to make sure the door or louvers still open and are not blocked with anything. Also, sometimes the blower wheel inside the dryer can be loose where it attaches to the motor shaft, and will no longer spin up to full speed. If so, then it will need a new blower wheel.
Any idea where the hi limit thermostat is on model Maytag gas dryer model
PYG2300AWW? Thanks!
Its very small, 2 wire fuse located somewhere on the bulkhead near the top of the heat riser. It's item number 12 on the diagram for the gas carrying components for this model.
Ken I have a performa dryer where is the thermal fuse and the thermostat found on this dryer? Model #PY2300AYW Serial #11871246AT
That model number doesn't show to be good on Sears website as well as Reliable Parts website. Perhaps there is a typo, let me know. But, on most performa models the thermal fuse is on the side of the heat element can and the thermostat is on top of the heat element can. The heat element can on them is usually just below the top deck inthe middle of the rear bulkhead. So you hve to open the top deck to get to it all
Can the heating element be taken out without taking the rear bulkhead out? I am to the point at the end of the vid and I'm about to test to see if its the element or the thermostat thingy (technical term).
In this style dryer, you do not have to remove the rear bulkhead. The element is mounted at the bottom left corner of the bulkhead. Remove the screws that attach it to the bulkhead, and slide it down and out of the dryer. Hope this helps!
@@kensappliancerepair9971 Yea it appeared to be able to slide out the bottom I just wanted to make sure. Thank you, this has been a huge help.
@@tomthumb1322 You are welcome!
Is this a generic design for the this kid to have hinges
Not really, pretty much just Maytag made them the way they are in this video.
how to remove the circuit pannel?
Im good on everything except removing the belt
Maytag model MDE9606AZW
Open dryer top
How to open dryer top
My dryer kicks off after about running 1000 minutes and smell hot, what could be wrong?
If it works again after it cools down, then the motor overload protection switch is probably getting tripped. If that's the case, it's usually the motor that is going bad. If it wont restart at all after it cools down, and still doesn't work, then a lot of things could have gone bad, such as the fuse and thermostat on the blower box housing, or the door switch, or a broken belt, or even a tripped circuit breaker.
Not my model...
Sad
Same
How do I remove belt without breaking it