Another great video with full explanation on what things do...my M1 is been delivered tomorrow and im sure ill have your youtube videos close by...thank you so much for your time and efforts
Thank you for posting this video. I was struggling trying to engrave a wood box that was too big and your explanation of the "sweet spot" on the laser really helped. I can now engrave any height box that I want. I've said this before on other comments to others but I'm really surprised that xtool doesn't have videos out there to show you how to do this stuff. Maybe they do but I just can't find them. Anyway THANK YOU SO MUCH! Great video.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support. I know xTool is building a library of videos (I have added a few at their request), they just have a ways to go.
Thanks so much for this video! I just received my machine, and your video has already saved me a bunch of time! The video and audio are first rate too!
Grateful for this. Hands down the best content to show how to do this. Thank for your patience and for sharing. This video helped me out, I tried the rotary knowing that I might not get it right. I stopped at the auto measure. Raisers that come with the M1 are too small. Thanks for the making your own. I have scrap wood like you mentioned. Thanks for that
Suuuuuuuuper helpful! I love the way that you explain everything because it makes it very easy to understand and it makes operating the machine far less intimidating! Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see more videos!
Wonderful of you to post a video on the rotary, I have to admit it's the one thing I find a bit intimidating. Got my M1 a few weeks ago with rotary but have yet to set it up (I 'm waiting on a few things first). I especially loved that you took the time to show in graphic's the laser set up. Thank you for sharing, I'm grateful😄
Thanks for your detailed instruction and honest review. I've watched all your videos and quite frankly you convinced me to go ahead an order one. Very grateful for your generous reviews for the masses!
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if you can make a video about troubleshooting as to why my cup won't rotate and also, my etching starts off fine then it starts to etch over the place over and over again and/or starts a scribble. I read that it could be due to slippage but I did weigh down the cup but that didn't help either. Thank you for your time.
I suggest you try framing the project and see if it rotates around properly. If not, check to see if the cup is secure, level, and mounted straight onto the rotary tool.
You have two choices when it comes to lasering. You can use the auto-measure feature by placing the laser at the highest point and press automeasure in XCS. Or, you can use the manual measuring ruler. The ruler can be found on the xTool support site.
@@MonkeyWoodworks I just unboxed this thing last week so I am trying to learn as much as I can. I really like your videos! I have been teaching people how to use the Cricut and now I want to do the same thing with the M1 but first I need to figure it out. lol I did get the red dot to measure the rock yesterday, but it still did not engrave. I might have to try adjusting the settings.
That is great! On the rock, it could definitely be a setting thing. Also, don't forget to check out the Facebook groups related to the M1, someone may have already engraved a rock and shared their settings.
Great video, thank you so much. Really help me so much understanding Engraving on a bottle. If not too much, I would like to see next video for How to make a Jig and implement it on x-Tool M1. Since the camera is not reliable for engraving at the moment.
@@MonkeyWoodworks No, it is what I am planing to do. I am planning to give a gift ( a set of colour pencils) for my daughter's friends on her birthday.
Oh nice. I think something like that would be fairly straight forward. If it were me doing it, i would setup your foil or aluminum to protect the base plate, insert prisims, and place a board i plan on using as the template in the M1 pushing it against the bottom left of the black frame to use as a reference point. That bottom left would be wasted wood but its a nice reference for lining up the future engravings. Draw some 3/16" wide or so by 6" rectangles in XCS lining them up on the left side of each other. Set those to cut and cut out those rectangles. Once all cut out, remove everything from the M1. Put the board with the cut rectangles back in pushing it in the same corner of the M1 and add your pencils to the template. Using the rectangles on the screen of the XCS software still. Add your text you want to engrave on the pencils. Center that text on the rectangles since that is where the pencils will be. Remove the rectangles, and engrave the text. I would definitely test it out on test pencils first of course.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Wow... thank you so much for detail explanation. I never thought about bottom left as reference. Definitely will try it, once my honey comb is done. 🙏🏻 •"̮•·τнänκ_чöü·•"̮• 🙏🏻
Your welcome! You can use just about anything in there as a point of reference. Just be careful using the bottom left since it can potentially block the air holes.
Thanks for your videos Michael. They’re super easy to understand w/o a bunch of fluff! I would like to see a wooden ornament that does scoring, engraving, and cutting. I bought a file from a fellow member in a general laser community, it’s been proven on a GF but I can’t figure out how to do it on my M1 ( I’ve only had it a week though)
Thanks Michael!! I just watched it…helpful for creating my own ornaments but I have a file I bought off of Etsy that I cannot get to work in XCS…the designer is aware and I believe is having the same issues with it. Perhaps when Lightburn is compatible it will work…
Are you able to get down to the stainless steel? I feel like I am just burning the powder coating and not removing the powder coating to show the shiny stainless steel below. On your example of the white bottle, it looks like the etching is black.
I do not have an RA2 unfortunately. I saw someone post just yesterday about a Yeti cup. I haven't tested it but here are the settings they used: 100%power, 75mm/s, 2 passes, 220 lines per cm.
I really enjoy your videos. They have all been extremely helpful. I have an xtool m1 5 watt. Most of the settings I see others use, that are not preset settings, are for a 10 watt. Is there a way for me to translate those settings for a 5 watt? My theory was to use the 10 watt settings, but run it twice as many times, but I don’t know if that is correct.
I wish I knew the answer to that but I do not. If you find out, let me know! I can add the information and/or calculation to my material settings google sheet for others to reference.
this is great I just bought mine and waiting to get it. There are some things I was I was wondering about the m1 maybe you can look into them; 1. If you can also show how accurate is the camera to laser and blade? For example if you can take a piece of paper with a print of a skinny outline of a square and or circle and see how close the laser and blade can follow that outline to cut 2. I know the M1 can cut and engrave and I was wondering how deep can it engrave on materials the m1 can easily cut like wood and or acrylic plastic? 3. You just did a video on the rotary tool I would like to see m1 cut a design on a cyclical object may be a corrugated tube. do you have to put aluminum foil inside the tube to stop the laser from going all the way through when cutting the design on the cyclical object? 4. I have seen images of people using photographs and engraving those photos on surfaces like wood and metal. can you also look into how to do that? I am trying to understand how it works when cuting machines use vectors as a way to visualize cut paths and a photograph is a raster image made up of gradients and solid colors.
1. They are still fine-tuning the software and getting it in sync with the camera. Once they have an official release of the software, ill give it a shot. 2. I believe the claim is 10mm max thickness however it really depends on the material and it's density. You may check their website for more info. 3. I asked xTool about it, this was their response: "This requires the use of professional software for simulation design, or accurate calculation of graphics and dimensions can be done." A user in the group was able to accomplish it with a repeating pattern but you can see the seam just a little. 4. I want to try that too. Ill post a video of it once I do it.
Can you do a video on engraving a wrap around on a tumbler using the same roller..i cant figure it out and XTool show a video of it being done but not how to set it up and do it .
Loved that Video. I ordered my M1 a few days ago. Would you be willing to shear your SketchUp file? I want to 3D Print some adjustable raisers for my Setup so your Model would be a huge help.
I just got my M1 a few days ago. I am very hesitant to use the rotary tool or to take the bottom off. When removing the bottom plate and putting the M1 on risers, do I need to wear laser safety goggles? I have been watching all your videos. Thank you for your style of teaching, love the way you explain things.
Just unplug the M1 and go for it. Its just like a lightweight printer only on the bigger side. Careful, it's heaver in the back than the front so be ready for that. Also, goggles are not necessary at all but if you fell better wearing them at first, go for it!
Sorry if this was asked before, but what kind of tumbler is that and where did you get it from? Of course my wife saw me watching the video and wants one now.
Thank you for making this video. I just got my M1 and did a travel mug logo. I eyeballed it since I didn’t know what the framing did. Can’t wait to try it again. Do you know if the M1 can do the 3d photo cubes? It would be cool if it could.
Great question! the prism/honeycomb allows for an air-gap between the part your cutting out and the base of the laser (M1 or any other laser). This air gap allows for cleaner cuts and less charring on the bottom of the material. Prisms are nice but you will quickly find out that a honeycomb will be more helpful because it can support pieces all the way across. This is especially helpful for smaller cut-outs.
Does your machine make a slight hum when turned on but idle? Also is there a way of calibrating so when you flat engrave/cut it’s really precise to the item your engraving ?
It does hum. Some find it annoying, but it doesn't bother me any. It actually reminds me to turn it off lol. The hum is from an internal fan on the motherboard (like a computer). I hear they are going to look into dialing it down a bit in RPMs when at idle but so far i havent seen/heard a change. There is really no way to calibrate it. The way it comes is what you get. However with the use of the framing tool, you can get really really close to where you want to engrave, plus they are about to release another version of their XCS software which has improvements all around including the camera accuracy.
I have only done a few and they are hit or miss. I would definitely check out the official M1 Facebook group to look at samples. Just search for "xTool M1 Official Group"
Can you engrave a rolling pin or dowel with a continuous pattern? I want to see what these machines can do depth wise to get a good pattern transfer, somewhere around 1/8th of an inch.
I asked xTool about it, this was their response: "This requires the use of professional software for simulation design, or accurate calculation of graphics and dimensions can be done." A user in the group was able to accomplish it with a repeating pattern but you can see the seam just a little. He did it by measuring the circumference by wrapping a strip of paper around it and measuring it. Then adjusted the image to get as close to that as possible for engraving.
I used the framing feature when figuring out where to engrave on my bottle. But that ended up scoring the perimeter. So now I have a rectangle scored which I didn't want. Any ideas on how I could avoid that in the future?
I saw your post in the FB group. I was hoping someone with more knowledge chimes in. I have not had that happen before but i have only performed framing on a handful of items other than wood so i have not seen that come up yet.
Love the video, thanks for all the info. I have the same unit and when I do the framing, it doesn’t have a light. It just moves around and I have to guess if I’m in the right spot. Do u think there’s a setting for that?
I don't think so. I believe it is built into the unit. What happens if you Look low at the machine trying to look underneath the laser head? You cannot see it if you are directly on top. You have to look at it at an angle either from the side or the front. If you still cannot see it you'll need to contact xtool. I have not seen anybody complain about this before in the group but you may not be the only one.
I'm grateful to you for taking the time with this, super helpful. Like going to an experienced friend's house to learn before you ruin your workpiece. Have you experimented with the manual focus tool you can download, cut and engrave from XTool's page "M1 Manual Focusing Tutorial in Laser Cylindrical Mode" and determined if it is of any use in helping you determine if you have the risers within tolerance?
I actually made a video for X tools RUclips channel for that. I do not believe I have the ruler shown in my channels RUclips videos. But it is definitely something you need to know how to do.. I engraved a baseball glove recently and had to use the ruler to measure it.
Different bottles may require different power/speed settings. If it is really dar, it sounds like you need to lighten up the power some. Try taking a magic eraser and rubbing it. That may clear it ups some. It also doesnt hurt to waste a bottle and engrave a test grid on it to find what will work best on that bottle.
Very helpful demo of the M1, thanks a lot! Could you show us how to transform a photo into laser engraving? I screw it up today >< Thank you for sharing everything ^^
Hi! I love the videos! I'm curious as to when we should use the laser versus the blade. On the FB group it seems most people use the laser for everything-even heavy cardstock. Does it matter? Keep up the great work!
It really depends on the project/material your working with. I mainly focus on the laser as you have seen. However, if your going to work material like vinyl you need to use the blade on it instead.
This video really helps. Do you know the disiatnce between the laser and base plate? Just got my M1 and haven't been able to setup yet. After watching your video I was thinking about making a go/ nogo jig for quick laser refrence.
Thanks so much! I don't know the exact measurement but I believe you can focus up to 14mm-16mm above the base plate. The laser itself is higher than that but not by much. The laser head moves up and down to adjust the focus. I don't know if it goes to a specific height when your project is finished and it goes back home. Plus the cutting head hangs lower than the laser head so you have to keep that in mind as well. Auto measure is definitely your friend. I cant tell you how many times I have pushed the material around by the laser head because I forgot to auto-measure before hitting start. I suggested to xTool that it auto-measures automatically when we hit start to avoid any collisions. We will see if they do anything with that advice.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you doing this video and talking about the framing. The tape is a great idea. That is going to be a huge help! Can you explain how to measure and fully cover a straight side and tapered cup/water bottle with engraved design? Thank you! (and I love your videos!)
Unfortunately those are really hard to do with the original rotory tool. You would get better results with the RA2 player. Hopefully I will have a video on that soon
I have only done a handful of tumblers but yes, i have seen people stating that it is reversed and they had to mirror the image to make it work properly. I personally have not had to mirror mine and I am not sure why some have to mirror and others do not.
Wow!!! This was so helpful in helping me understand my xTool better. Getting ready to start making tumblers on my M1.
Happy to know it was helpful! Good luck with your M1!
Waiting on arrival. Glad I found you. Will make less waste. Also subbed. Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for the support. Feel free to reach out with any questions
Another great video with full explanation on what things do...my M1 is been delivered tomorrow and im sure ill have your youtube videos close by...thank you so much for your time and efforts
Thank you for the kind words! Good luck with your M1!
Thank you for posting this video. I was struggling trying to engrave a wood box that was too big and your explanation of the "sweet spot" on the laser really helped. I can now engrave any height box that I want. I've said this before on other comments to others but I'm really surprised that xtool doesn't have videos out there to show you how to do this stuff. Maybe they do but I just can't find them. Anyway THANK YOU SO MUCH! Great video.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support. I know xTool is building a library of videos (I have added a few at their request), they just have a ways to go.
Thanks very much for all the videos. I'm just a couple days in with my M1 and you've already helped me quite a bit!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks so much for this video! I just received my machine, and your video has already saved me a bunch of time! The video and audio are first rate too!
That's awesome. Glad it was helpful. Have fun making stuff!
Thank you thank you thank you. Just the video I needed. 🎉
You are so welcome!
Grateful for this. Hands down the best content to show how to do this. Thank for your patience and for sharing.
This video helped me out, I tried the rotary knowing that I might not get it right. I stopped at the auto measure. Raisers that come with the M1 are too small. Thanks for the making your own. I have scrap wood like you mentioned. Thanks for that
You're weleome. I'm so glad it helped!
Suuuuuuuuper helpful! I love the way that you explain everything because it makes it very easy to understand and it makes operating the machine far less intimidating! Keep up the great work and I can't wait to see more videos!
Thank you so much!
Yes, thank you! I hope that you make more videos. I want to engrave Yeti cups and glass cups. Can't wait to see more of your videos!
Wonderful of you to post a video on the rotary, I have to admit it's the one thing I find a bit intimidating. Got my M1 a few weeks ago with rotary but have yet to set it up (I 'm waiting on a few things first). I especially loved that you took the time to show in graphic's the laser set up. Thank you for sharing, I'm grateful😄
Thank you! I am glad it was helpful.
Incredibly helpful video and great explanation. Thanks so much for these. My M1 should arrive in a few days.
Your welcome! I bet you will love it!
Thanks for your detailed instruction and honest review. I've watched all your videos and quite frankly you convinced me to go ahead an order one. Very grateful for your generous reviews for the masses!
You're very welcome. The thing is a LOT of fun. I am amazed at it still watching it work.
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if you can make a video about troubleshooting as to why my cup won't rotate and also, my etching starts off fine then it starts to etch over the place over and over again and/or starts a scribble. I read that it could be due to slippage but I did weigh down the cup but that didn't help either. Thank you for your time.
I suggest you try framing the project and see if it rotates around properly. If not, check to see if the cup is secure, level, and mounted straight onto the rotary tool.
Very helpful thank you so much - can you use any type of metal bottle?
Just about. Your basically burning away the coating and exposing the metal below it.
Great video thank you. How did you change settings ftom mm to inches?
In the Settings menu, there is an option to toggle between the two. I use it very often.
Hi there thank you for the training! What were your aettings?
I keep all my settings listed in my shared Google document. You can find a link to it in the description of any of my M1 videos.
Great video..have been looking at the D1 and new 20w but this M1 has a lot of user friendly offerings so maybe I'll go this route
They each have their pros and cons but the M1 is definitely a great engraver/cutter.
I am trying to laser engrave on a rock, and I am guessing it is measuring the lowest point of the rock . . . how do I measure the thickest point?
You have two choices when it comes to lasering. You can use the auto-measure feature by placing the laser at the highest point and press automeasure in XCS. Or, you can use the manual measuring ruler. The ruler can be found on the xTool support site.
@@MonkeyWoodworks I just unboxed this thing last week so I am trying to learn as much as I can. I really like your videos!
I have been teaching people how to use the Cricut and now I want to do the same thing with the M1 but first I need to figure it out. lol
I did get the red dot to measure the rock yesterday, but it still did not engrave. I might have to try adjusting the settings.
That is great! On the rock, it could definitely be a setting thing. Also, don't forget to check out the Facebook groups related to the M1, someone may have already engraved a rock and shared their settings.
Great video, thank you so much. Really help me so much understanding Engraving on a bottle. If not too much, I would like to see next video for How to make a Jig and implement it on x-Tool M1. Since the camera is not reliable for engraving at the moment.
I found that a holding jig is useful if your making repeat items. Is that what your doing?
@@MonkeyWoodworks No, it is what I am planing to do. I am planning to give a gift ( a set of colour pencils) for my daughter's friends on her birthday.
Oh nice. I think something like that would be fairly straight forward. If it were me doing it, i would setup your foil or aluminum to protect the base plate, insert prisims, and place a board i plan on using as the template in the M1 pushing it against the bottom left of the black frame to use as a reference point. That bottom left would be wasted wood but its a nice reference for lining up the future engravings. Draw some 3/16" wide or so by 6" rectangles in XCS lining them up on the left side of each other. Set those to cut and cut out those rectangles. Once all cut out, remove everything from the M1. Put the board with the cut rectangles back in pushing it in the same corner of the M1 and add your pencils to the template. Using the rectangles on the screen of the XCS software still. Add your text you want to engrave on the pencils. Center that text on the rectangles since that is where the pencils will be. Remove the rectangles, and engrave the text. I would definitely test it out on test pencils first of course.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Wow... thank you so much for detail explanation. I never thought about bottom left as reference. Definitely will try it, once my honey comb is done. 🙏🏻 •"̮•·τнänκ_чöü·•"̮• 🙏🏻
Your welcome! You can use just about anything in there as a point of reference. Just be careful using the bottom left since it can potentially block the air holes.
Hi! Your videos and details that you put into it are great and very helpful. Can this machine cut acrylic?
It can! In my latest video, I cut black acrylic.
Thanks for your videos Michael. They’re super easy to understand w/o a bunch of fluff!
I would like to see a wooden ornament that does scoring, engraving, and cutting. I bought a file from a fellow member in a general laser community, it’s been proven on a GF but I can’t figure out how to do it on my M1 ( I’ve only had it a week though)
In my Part4 video, I sort of made an ornament with engraving and cutting. It turned out alright i believe. Especially for being 5mm (1/4") thick.
Thanks Michael!! I just watched it…helpful for creating my own ornaments but I have a file I bought off of Etsy that I cannot get to work in XCS…the designer is aware and I believe is having the same issues with it. Perhaps when Lightburn is compatible it will work…
@@shellycox9616 I hear it's hit or miss for easy files on XCS currently. Is it a complicated pattern? What is it doing / not doing?
Are you able to get down to the stainless steel? I feel like I am just burning the powder coating and not removing the powder coating to show the shiny stainless steel below. On your example of the white bottle, it looks like the etching is black.
Yes it is possible with the M1. This tumbler was a bit different but others in the FB group have had great results with the M1 and tumblers.
Can you do a Yeti cup? One that is powder coated?
Also, do you have videos on the RA 2 rotary?
I do not have an RA2 unfortunately.
I saw someone post just yesterday about a Yeti cup. I haven't tested it but here are the settings they used: 100%power, 75mm/s, 2 passes, 220 lines per cm.
I really enjoy your videos. They have all been extremely helpful. I have an xtool m1 5 watt. Most of the settings I see others use, that are not preset settings, are for a 10 watt. Is there a way for me to translate those settings for a 5 watt? My theory was to use the 10 watt settings, but run it twice as many times, but I don’t know if that is correct.
I wish I knew the answer to that but I do not. If you find out, let me know! I can add the information and/or calculation to my material settings google sheet for others to reference.
I sure will
Merci pour tout ces renseignements, tout cela nous sera très utile car on vient d’acheter la xtoolM1
You are welcome!
this is great I just bought mine and waiting to get it. There are some things I was I was wondering about the m1 maybe you can look into them;
1. If you can also show how accurate is the camera to laser and blade? For example if you can take a piece of paper with a print of a skinny outline of a square and or circle and see how close the laser and blade can follow that outline to cut
2. I know the M1 can cut and engrave and I was wondering how deep can it engrave on materials the m1 can easily cut like wood and or acrylic plastic?
3. You just did a video on the rotary tool I would like to see m1 cut a design on a cyclical object may be a corrugated tube. do you have to put aluminum foil inside the tube to stop the laser from going all the way through when cutting the design on the cyclical object?
4. I have seen images of people using photographs and engraving those photos on surfaces like wood and metal. can you also look into how to do that? I am trying to understand how it works when cuting machines use vectors as a way to visualize cut paths and a photograph is a raster image made up of gradients and solid colors.
1. They are still fine-tuning the software and getting it in sync with the camera. Once they have an official release of the software, ill give it a shot.
2. I believe the claim is 10mm max thickness however it really depends on the material and it's density. You may check their website for more info.
3. I asked xTool about it, this was their response: "This requires the use of professional software for simulation design, or accurate calculation of graphics and dimensions can be done." A user in the group was able to accomplish it with a repeating pattern but you can see the seam just a little.
4. I want to try that too. Ill post a video of it once I do it.
Have you engraved a ceramic coffee mug? if you can, what is the setting
I have not. You may want to search the Official M1 Group on Facebook
Can you do a video on engraving a wrap around on a tumbler using the same roller..i cant figure it out and XTool show a video of it being done but not how to set it up and do it .
I will see what i can do!
Loved that Video. I ordered my M1 a few days ago. Would you be willing to shear your SketchUp file? I want to 3D Print some adjustable raisers for my Setup so your Model would be a huge help.
The model is not to scale at all. I just drew it by hand for the explanation in the video.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thats no Problem at all. Thanks for the quick answer. Please continue with your grate work.
I just got my M1 a few days ago. I am very hesitant to use the rotary tool or to take the bottom off. When removing the bottom plate and putting the M1 on risers, do I need to wear laser safety goggles? I have been watching all your videos. Thank you for your style of teaching, love the way you explain things.
Just unplug the M1 and go for it. Its just like a lightweight printer only on the bigger side. Careful, it's heaver in the back than the front so be ready for that. Also, goggles are not necessary at all but if you fell better wearing them at first, go for it!
Sorry if this was asked before, but what kind of tumbler is that and where did you get it from? Of course my wife saw me watching the video and wants one now.
hah. It's called a Corkcicle
Thank you for making this video. I just got my M1 and did a travel mug logo. I eyeballed it since I didn’t know what the framing did. Can’t wait to try it again.
Do you know if the M1 can do the 3d photo cubes? It would be cool if it could.
Your welcome! No, I don't think this can do that.
hi hi!!! once again tahnks for your videos!! what does the prism/honeycomb do?
Great question! the prism/honeycomb allows for an air-gap between the part your cutting out and the base of the laser (M1 or any other laser). This air gap allows for cleaner cuts and less charring on the bottom of the material. Prisms are nice but you will quickly find out that a honeycomb will be more helpful because it can support pieces all the way across. This is especially helpful for smaller cut-outs.
Does your machine make a slight hum when turned on but idle? Also is there a way of calibrating so when you flat engrave/cut it’s really precise to the item your engraving ?
It does hum. Some find it annoying, but it doesn't bother me any. It actually reminds me to turn it off lol. The hum is from an internal fan on the motherboard (like a computer). I hear they are going to look into dialing it down a bit in RPMs when at idle but so far i havent seen/heard a change. There is really no way to calibrate it. The way it comes is what you get. However with the use of the framing tool, you can get really really close to where you want to engrave, plus they are about to release another version of their XCS software which has improvements all around including the camera accuracy.
Is there somewhere to find what power settings you need? My cups keep coming out dark grey and not silver
I have only done a few and they are hit or miss. I would definitely check out the official M1 Facebook group to look at samples. Just search for "xTool M1 Official Group"
Can you engrave a rolling pin or dowel with a continuous pattern? I want to see what these machines can do depth wise to get a good pattern transfer, somewhere around 1/8th of an inch.
I asked xTool about it, this was their response: "This requires the use of professional software for simulation design, or accurate calculation of graphics and dimensions can be done." A user in the group was able to accomplish it with a repeating pattern but you can see the seam just a little. He did it by measuring the circumference by wrapping a strip of paper around it and measuring it. Then adjusted the image to get as close to that as possible for engraving.
What are your settings for this? Cause I am doing mine but it's taking hrs. Thanks
I used 100٪ power, 70mm/s. All of my settings are shared in an online file. You can find a link to it in the description of any of my M1 videos.
@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you
I used the framing feature when figuring out where to engrave on my bottle. But that ended up scoring the perimeter. So now I have a rectangle scored which I didn't want. Any ideas on how I could avoid that in the future?
I saw your post in the FB group. I was hoping someone with more knowledge chimes in. I have not had that happen before but i have only performed framing on a handful of items other than wood so i have not seen that come up yet.
@@MonkeyWoodworks I see. Thank you for getting back to me 👍
Love the video, thanks for all the info. I have the same unit and when I do the framing, it doesn’t have a light. It just moves around and I have to guess if I’m in the right spot. Do u think there’s a setting for that?
I don't think so. I believe it is built into the unit. What happens if you Look low at the machine trying to look underneath the laser head? You cannot see it if you are directly on top. You have to look at it at an angle either from the side or the front. If you still cannot see it you'll need to contact xtool. I have not seen anybody complain about this before in the group but you may not be the only one.
Can you do vinyl and acrylic?
I would like to see acrylic as well
I just purchased some black 1/8" acrylic for a project. Ill be sure to record it.
I just purchased some black 1/8" acrylic for a project. Ill be sure to record it.
I cut black acrylic in my latest video.
I cut black acrylic in my latest video.
have you tried tile and canvas engraving?
I have not. However, I have seen others make some beautiful tile pieces. Ill have to look into canvas engraving.
I'm grateful to you for taking the time with this, super helpful. Like going to an experienced friend's house to learn before you ruin your workpiece. Have you experimented with the manual focus tool you can download, cut and engrave from XTool's page "M1 Manual Focusing Tutorial in Laser Cylindrical Mode" and determined if it is of any use in helping you determine if you have the risers within tolerance?
I actually made a video for X tools RUclips channel for that. I do not believe I have the ruler shown in my channels RUclips videos. But it is definitely something you need to know how to do.. I engraved a baseball glove recently and had to use the ruler to measure it.
THANK YOU IT HELPED ALOT ITS JUST MY IMAGE IS COMIN OUT REAL DARK INSTEAD OF THE GREYING ISTHAT NORMAL
Different bottles may require different power/speed settings. If it is really dar, it sounds like you need to lighten up the power some. Try taking a magic eraser and rubbing it. That may clear it ups some. It also doesnt hurt to waste a bottle and engrave a test grid on it to find what will work best on that bottle.
Very helpful demo of the M1, thanks a lot! Could you show us how to transform a photo into laser engraving? I screw it up today >< Thank you for sharing everything ^^
That is my plan for the next video. I just need to find some time to do it. Be warned, I am doing it from a beginners standpoint.
Hi! I love the videos! I'm curious as to when we should use the laser versus the blade. On the FB group it seems most people use the laser for everything-even heavy cardstock. Does it matter? Keep up the great work!
It really depends on the project/material your working with. I mainly focus on the laser as you have seen. However, if your going to work material like vinyl you need to use the blade on it instead.
This video really helps. Do you know the disiatnce between the laser and base plate? Just got my M1 and haven't been able to setup yet. After watching your video I was thinking about making a go/ nogo jig for quick laser refrence.
Thanks so much! I don't know the exact measurement but I believe you can focus up to 14mm-16mm above the base plate. The laser itself is higher than that but not by much. The laser head moves up and down to adjust the focus. I don't know if it goes to a specific height when your project is finished and it goes back home. Plus the cutting head hangs lower than the laser head so you have to keep that in mind as well. Auto measure is definitely your friend. I cant tell you how many times I have pushed the material around by the laser head because I forgot to auto-measure before hitting start. I suggested to xTool that it auto-measures automatically when we hit start to avoid any collisions. We will see if they do anything with that advice.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you doing this video and talking about the framing. The tape is a great idea. That is going to be a huge help!
Can you explain how to measure and fully cover a straight side and tapered cup/water bottle with engraved design?
Thank you! (and I love your videos!)
That's a great question! Unfortunately I have no idea how to do but I'll look into it!
Merci beaucoup
You are welcome!
Thanks.
You're welcome
Coffee mugs with handles
Unfortunately those are really hard to do with the original rotory tool. You would get better results with the RA2 player. Hopefully I will have a video on that soon
Is anyone else having issues of their engraving printing completely backwards??
I have only done a handful of tumblers but yes, i have seen people stating that it is reversed and they had to mirror the image to make it work properly. I personally have not had to mirror mine and I am not sure why some have to mirror and others do not.