I had all those same problems with the 30 mm cheapo short rubber boot. I went more caveman and; RTV'ed the flange, clearanced the motor mounts and trimmed the starter bolt....lol
@@clevero8532 with this 70MM big bore kit and 36/31 big valve head I was running a 30MM PWK, a 125 main jet, and a 32 pilot. Worked really well with this setup at 5000ft elevation.
@@joshbarnes5784 thanks for watching! I suppose there are probably a few options to solve this. I’m worried if I force it then something will break. I’ll either modify the brackets or just make new ones.
You won't have to force it and you won't break anything. The whole engine is slightly out of alignment and that's why you cannot install the bolt. Also the "l" head and the "f" head are exactly the same
@@joshbarnes5784 okay; I could look into that. Do the “f” heads also have the holes for the sensors? I know they are all very similar. SXParts only listed it as CRF 150 L.
@@DustySteel they are cast with the sensor and air bypass locations but are not drilled for them. I removed all of the air bypass crap and plugged the holes
@@joshbarnes5784 I didn’t unbolt the engine though so in my opinion with how much it’s still off, even with me boring the head mount, it’s off too much. I don’t have the stock head anymore otherwise I would compare the two.
Good to still see the progress on the 150!
I had all those same problems with the 30 mm cheapo short rubber boot.
I went more caveman and; RTV'ed the flange, clearanced the motor mounts
and trimmed the starter bolt....lol
@@TinShackVideos I also rtv’d the flange at that time; I just had the carb tilted so the bowl was a little more away from the exhaust lol.
@@DustySteel
The cheapo rubber boot, the more the hose clamp is tightened, the bigger the gap.
@@TinShackVideos agreed!! I’ll need to find a metal 34mm one. I might try my skills at aluminum casting and just make one. I’ve never tried before.
What jets are you using and size carb?
@@clevero8532 with this 70MM big bore kit and 36/31 big valve head I was running a 30MM PWK, a 125 main jet, and a 32 pilot. Worked really well with this setup at 5000ft elevation.
@@clevero8532 thanks for watching and subbing, if that was you.
Lossen all your engine mounts and pry the engine back and fourth. The bolt hole will line up you dont need to drill it out
@@joshbarnes5784 thanks for watching! I suppose there are probably a few options to solve this. I’m worried if I force it then something will break. I’ll either modify the brackets or just make new ones.
You won't have to force it and you won't break anything. The whole engine is slightly out of alignment and that's why you cannot install the bolt. Also the "l" head and the "f" head are exactly the same
@@joshbarnes5784 okay; I could look into that. Do the “f” heads also have the holes for the sensors? I know they are all very similar. SXParts only listed it as CRF 150 L.
@@DustySteel they are cast with the sensor and air bypass locations but are not drilled for them. I removed all of the air bypass crap and plugged the holes
@@joshbarnes5784 I didn’t unbolt the engine though so in my opinion with how much it’s still off, even with me boring the head mount, it’s off too much. I don’t have the stock head anymore otherwise I would compare the two.