I have twin cam 96ci. I'm sitting around 270-285° cruising and up to 315-320° in traffic. That's with woods 222 cams, dual exhaust and fuelmoto powervision tune. That's head temp reading to the powervision.
@@theoldboyscout3662 I suggest watching DK Customs videos on cooling down your Harley. Great info and I very inexpensively lowered my oil temperature 50 degrees with exhaust, DK Customs VIED, and 606 air cleaner.
TC103, V&H exhaust, catless dresser duals, Twin Slash Rounds, FP3, Rinehart Racing Intake, Wood TW222Cam, Golden Spectro Synthetic Oil. Night and day difference. My cylinder de activation never comes on anymore. It’s like a different motor altogether. Cam really was the game changer. My bike detonated everyday I had it until I did these mods last year. The motor would ‘Ping’ riding down the highway when I fed it throttle. I’m surprised it didn’t seize up before I did these changes.
One of my friends has an early fuel injected twin cam. To mitigate heat issues he has put on a tank lift and installed a FuelPack, he's planning on getting a Jagg Fan Assisted Oil Cooler. The FuelPack with the new tune enriched his air/fuel mixture and that significantly made the engine run cooler as well as produce more power. He also uses a full synthetic engine oil which reduces friction and in turn reduces heat and wear.
Sounds like he's done all the right things on there! If its the Magnetti Marelli system those things can be a pain if you start having issues with them.
I ride a 2012 Twin cam. As I am an old school rider ( first shovel head in 1970) I now ride between June and September and have my hoss running a Stage 1. I only run Amsoil 60wt in the motor and dedicated Amsoil in the primary and trans. She rarely gets over210 degrees even on the hottest days. I however stay out of the city as much as possible Keep up the good work Brother and remember to not be flapping those wings. 😂👍🏻😎
Good video. I mentioned getting an oil cooler to my salesman when I purchased it in 2012 and he said it was not needed. 10 years later and not much slow speed or stop n go I still think I should have got one
04 RK...I notice out on long rides it starts to feel like it's losing power/struggling, and that's not sitting in traffic either, that's out on the open road.
Full Rinehart exhaust, Always synthetic oil, I also have the twin cooled 103 and a Dynojet tuner. Normal oil temp is about 210-220. Engine temp I'm thinking 250-275. From what I've read that seems pretty good. I do my best to stay out of stop and go traffic.
I’ve got love jugs on my ‘01 FLTRSE.It was the first accessory I bought for the bike.It’s switched over to a CV carb.Great ride with over 100k on the motor,(top end was probably done before I bought it).I try to stay sittin’ in the shade when it’s real hot,but it sure runs happy during cool mornings and evenings.
2014 TC103 with the lower compression 110" kit. I have a Jaggs fan assist oil cooler which keeps oil temp at 205 consistently. The cylinder temp can get to 285 to 290 in the summer in slower moving conditions. Thinking seriously of a set of Mighty Mites to protect my investment. Keep up the great videos!
Those are some awesome temperature numbers, especially with a 110 kit on there. Adding the fans would for sure help lower the head temperatures quite a bit!
I've got a 128 Stage 4 on my '17 Limited. After market exhaust, obviously to get rid of the converter. Third party tune to get out from under Harley limits. That's all I've done and my bike consistently runs in the 160-180 degree range unless I'm sitting and idling for more than 30 minutes, then it creeps up over 200. Temps ran higher when it was a 107; the bigger motor appears to be cooler all on its own.
It's perfectly okay if you're happy with a good tune, exhaust and air cleaner. My personal thought is they make excellent torque and they do it reliably just like that. Don't get me wrong I love a built motor and they are a lot of fun but you can't beat something solidly reliable and just does it's job.
@@GixxerFoo I do have a 6 speed gear box and im very thankful for that change that was made. I just wish I had more top end grunt. On the run out to Sturgis across minnesota and south dakota I was running wide open the whole time and my friends on a 107 and a 114 were just walking away from me. I can do maybe 90. Depends on the headwinds!
I have 14 SGS 103 to CVO 110 update. No emission stuff. Used FP3 to fatten idle mixture. Added love jugs. Yeah, right leg and passenger foot do suffer, but it’s manageable. According to FP3, it’s never been over 315 while stuck in summer traffic. I’ve also used EITMS during stupid hot days. I’m not convinced EITMS actually makes a difference. It does shake the shit out of the motor mounts. Prior to rebuild, the 103 often saw over 400 sitting in traffic. I once told Nana, “if it catches fire, just step off.” I did the 110 update @55k miles. Now have 69k miles. One day, I’m gonna buy a water cooled scooter, I have an excellent local HD dealer and I’m hoping the MoCo will address the new Pursuit so we can continue to do business. I’m in no hurry and apparently, neither is the MoCo.
That's awesome, if it catches fire just step off lol. Nice upgrades though by the way! I hope Harley comes out with a big inch liquid cooled twin here soon!
Thankfully my 02 Fatboy has a carb. No tuning issues. 95 CI, nice little cam, 2-1 race pipe, a high flow intake, and a Mikuni 42 to keep things working.
Adding an oil cooler should be #1 on mods. I have a single downtube cooler (Pro-One Chrome Oil Cooler Kit - 201050, paired with a JAGG 4700 thermostat oil filter adapter) that has made all the difference in the world. Forget about cooling for rider comfort.. Cooling for engine reliability and longevity is the real benefit.
thanks for this fam. im gonna get this as well especially since my 17 fxdb is my main transportation and i live in the hottest city of the US Yuma Arizona lol
@@GixxerFoo no joke. The red anniversary edition Z900RS they just dropped is perhaps the best retro bike I've ever seen and for sure the best retro from the the Japanese big four.
And no shame op. I watched Gixer and a couple of other guys for over a year before I finally bit the bullet and added a sportster 48 to accompany my Kawasaki rice Rocket.. and I still want more. Next will be a BMW Nine T, Aprilia Tuono, or a Ducati Panigale. Gotta have something euro to round out the collection. If I didn't have the sporty, it would probably be a Triumph bobber or thruxton.
All I know is the more information you present, the happier I am keeping my 2001 88/95 carbureted Roadking! Intake, exhaust improved and re-jetted carburetor. And "magic" synthetic oil of course.
I recently had a thundermax put in and it changed the game for me. Not a cheap upgrade however i feel it make changes on cold vs hot days and its like a clock now. Also run waaay cooler
I’ve done everything but oil cooler and hopefully I can squeeze it out of the budget for this season. It’s definitely better than what it was when I bought it. Last upgrade last year was S&S head pipe. It definitely moves more air and the heat is now farther away from me.
Exhaust makes a big difference on these air cooled bikes, especially if you ride a touring bike with the cat in the head pipe. No idea what Harley was thinking on that one.
Your comment says one day ago. I'll try to make this quick and logical In the past I've always figured I'm smarter than the designers and price department has been as much as 8 hours a day looking at stuff on the web parts and pieces and pieces of parts and writing down the prices and oh wow I save 50 cents here oh look I got a dollar and a half off better over that other and pieced together my own oil cooler kits that since oh I'd say 2017 110 Dyna S no when you find that decent itemized cooler all parts necessary to bolt on you buy it. But I'm still more stubborn than that at first then you find out you better look at all the little fine print and details of just exactly how it hooks up and routes in and what it's going to do and then you look at all the choices again I spend weeks I'm retired on disability I got nothing else to do to sit here on the couch until I free up pain I can go for a ride and I'm not telling you look at anything else but you can't see the Chase and they're expensive look at the ultra brand oil coolers that have a thermostat screws into the pancake adapter that comes with it allows you to vote on two oil cooler lines and your filter and something about it plug filler bypass pop off ball and spring in there and the adapter that nobody else has got or if the oil has to be a little too cold in a bypass that cooler till it gets warm enough the lower viscosity hot oil well circulate to the cooler and not starving your engine ever of any oil eliminating all possibilities for anything to go wrong which is kind of nice as it's explained quite well and why they're so proud of it with the price about 400 bucks for this whole kit but you look around today and they're going nuts on them all cooler prices has more people become aware And if alter brand dealers are still the highest price on your list of choices go back and look at your list of choices and subtract the difference in price and keep in mind that Powerball valve that will blow when the oil is too thick and will not starve your engine until it warms up and then it'll operate properly that little feature alone is insurance and you probably won't find a difference of 100 bucks between any of the deluxe kits and ultra that should make the choice for you you're only doing this one time you don't have a whole fleet of Harley's do you and if you do you're a rich bastard and I hate you.... And thank all the poor bastards you can't afford a Harley so they go out and buy a Honda goldwing and cost 33,000 base price what's wrong with this picture see you dude get all the killer plug and play and forget it your engine it will be safe oh yeah disconnect those head vents that blows oil into your throttle body and forces your engine to burn oil like it's wore out and take those vents and put them in a line and take them over and hook them into one of those little tiny k&N looking crankcase filters you can buy it on his own and your computer will not see the hydrocarbons from the oxygen sensors that are also reading the oil you're burning plus the gas Lane and it tells the computer oh my word rich and the computer knocks back on the gasoline and it causes it to suck more oil until it's happy with what it thinks is a air fuel mixture but is really an air fuel oil mixture you get them oil vents out of that intake like I said you know what I'm talking about and your ECU will only see pure hydrocarbons from the O2 sensor levels that are only from the fuel and it'll be lean then they'll add more fuel and guess what delusion gas mileage but you'll burn forever more than your buddies and Smokey's ass and I just understood that as I was told that that all out Dino tracks or going to be back in town.... And if you do don't pin the throttle under the Rev lantern and let go of the clutch lever at 6500 like I did that Dymo wheel it's a strap your rear tire down on is wrapped with expanded diamond plate that pretty much matches the tread grooves on about any tire that hooks up then they take ratchet straps and put an extra 500 lb of load on top of that when I crush your suspension down on it and if you pop that clutch that rear tire doesn't slip a thousands of an inch where it would normally burn out on a asphalt strip and I got to thinking about that after what happened the next day as my back tire stopped turning and I told him to come get it cuz they said it's under warranty even with a stage 4 a little extra I got this funny feeling when it's sitting there and I will get to it next weekend is January very next day the fxdr was launched and I said what's this and they said we don't know that one's coming in at 2:30 I said get the salesman and we traded right then for seven Grand... And the following week I rolled in there just looking at things and they jump my s*** said what the f*** did you do that God damn Dyna . I said hold on here it's not mine anymore it's yours just to piss him off more cuz I didn't like your attitude they said when they pulled the primary the clutch basket fell out in a form of aluminum gravel and it compensating sprocket look like a cartoon wind-up clock that heckling jackal had turned off the alarm with their beaks as it was a big old spring almost went through the cases and and when the crankshaft would turn the end of it wobbles up and down pretty much that was due from probably the primary chain was busted in half and then and I still have it right now I can't hardly tell it they had put and talked me into it for only 160 bucks more I can have them pull out off road big mouth can I compression heads on top of my stage 4 and just twist and horsepower of it like crazy and I don't know what came over then but they had to call the factory about installing him and probably let some secretary do the paperwork and she just checked my serial numbers right in there and it was racing heads are going on Factory warranted and poop my dealer had to pay for the rebuilt f****** done I blew apart on they all out Dyno drags track that they sponsored and watch me do it ... And Scott here cannonball Harley who changed it and gave it his third chain on the dyno with a brand new screaming eagle clutch slipping put another screaming eagle Colossians which was the mistake I should have just forfeited warranty and you got a Baker King Kong in it and I was probably still be riding it but with the TTS 2 complete stage 4 with the optional off-road warranty canceling high compression heads which are in a 9.6 at 123 against the booster 9.7 and 130 that was my reaction time of owe something almost a perfect light I got there first to a butt hurt busa I came equipped with whining fanboys made my day
The increase in heat also correlates to the changes in the formula required by the EPA to gasoline. Gas is nothing similar to the type of leaded fuels made in the past. Ethanol burns at a higher temp creating additional heat to burn cleaner. Then as you said HD had to install a catalyst in the exhaust systems. One option for additional oil cooling is the Oil Bud Oil Cooler. It lays under the engine case between the frame rails. The oil cooler works!! I have one on my 124" Trike along with the cylinder fans blowing on the heads at the spark plug.
That's an awesome idea and a great point on the Ethanol fuels! I try to avoid Ethanol in the bike if at all possible, but it's getting hard to find 100% gas these days. I carry octane booster with ethanol guard for those times I have to run that stuff.
GixxerFoo, look it internal thermal barrier coatings. I used it on internals of a 102" air cooled Yamaha V-twin with HC forged pistons and it didn't ping while idling in 100F air temp. Others with the same setup but no thermal barrier coating resorted to doubling up on base gaskets no stop pinging, which partially defeats the purpose of HC pistons. Water cooled motors can better control temps so don't need the coating.
@@GixxerFoo Yes, I did the piston tops, combustion chambers, valve heads facing the combustion chamber and the exhaust ports. The exhaust ports done to stop hot exhaust from heating the head which in turn heats the intake charge.
I haven’t noticed the heat from my 2001 FXSTB. 136K miles and have taken long trips too. Jacksonville Florida to Sturgis SD. 7000 mile trip. Rode to Sturgis and back home. We did 1000 miles a day to get there. Of course my bike has carburetor and isn’t modified much.
I have fitted and FP3 fuel pack,love jugs,and a 10 fin non fan assisted oil cooler, exhaust and air filter and also fitted a external breather system, according to the FP3 data monitor the engine never gets above 250 degrees even on the hottest days,I live in Western Australia and we have really hot summer days,the only drawback is as you mentioned the love jugs blowing hot air on you legs which is only an issue in traffic.
I had a header pipe and tuner [rinehart mufflers were already on it] put on my 2012 RK and switched from 20/50 synthetic to 50w synthetic and to help reduce the heat, so far it is pretty good.
One of the reasons I love my 03 FXDP with 04 95ci and 42mm Mikuni, Although she still gets a little hot in 95+ degree weather, but not too bad, live in NY traffic hell but my brand new 95ci does great, takes time to get a HD where you want it, I'm going on around 9 years, once you get the bugs out of them, they're pretty good 👍 I love my bike, she's finally getting there 😆
My last stock 103, when I was riding to work at 0430, I could look down when I got into the country with not much light out and the headers were glowing. I took it to harley a bunch of times and they said “probably normal, it’s a hot engine” that engine detonated and didn’t last.
You guys forget one thing, the majority of you guys cool off the twin-cam by enrich ing the fuel mixture. Putting it out of compliance with EPA standards and if your state goes to smog testing for motorcycles, you guys are going to be shipped out of luck because without no certificate you can't get insurance, for a license for your bike. My Evolution motor bike run at 200° at the oil tank in Florida in August two up. It is now considered an antique, so I don't have to worry about stuff like that. I have gone to bike event where twin cam motorcycles were tinkling and they were still making the same noises 5 hours later. On a twin cam Harley-Davidson motorcycle the engine gets is hot enough that you could cook a turkey on it. The Evolution motor was cooler Runnings then the Shovelhead, but all of their new big twin models run hot as hell, and part of that is because the engine is so damn huge. My dead uncle 1937 Harley knucklehead was only 61 cubic inches it was a Super Lite 500 lb Speedster with a certificate that it went 110 miles an hour from the factory. And it cost my uncle just over $500 on the road. So when you have an engine twice as big as the original overhead valve motor of course all things considered it's still going to put out twice as much heat. No way around that.
You and are pretty fortunate to be in what seem to be the free states theses days. California and riders up in the places like New York smog testing is where I could see emissions testing on motorcycles eventually. You just made another great case for the Evo though! Those bikes are starting to hit the 25 year mark to be considered antiques and exempt from a lot of things!
I was on vacation riding my 2009 107”. I got caught in OK City one August in a traffic jam. Even with a Stage One Kit, the heat was unbearable. I installed an oil cooler when I got home. Now with my 2021 Road Glide, it’s so much cooler of a ride.
I put a lot of miles on a 2003 88ci Twinkie Softail. She didn’t produce much power, but ran like a champ, flawlessly even, for 73,000 miles. Didn’t really notice any excessive heat. I just bought a 2011 Road King. Man, she seems to run hot. And it doesn’t help that I was riding her aggressively on a 95 degree day. She has a factory oil cooler but I added a remote oil filter to get it out in the breeze a bit. I’m thinking about adding a Howe Racing cool tube to those now extended oil lines. That makes sense to me. And once I get the exhaust where I want it, I think I’ll take your advice and get a proper dyno tune.
Both of my bikes get hot in traffic sitting. Pay attention to timing. It's a fine line, but ignition advance will reduce the temp, especially the exhaust temp. The EPA hates ignition advance because it tends to increase HC. But if you have enough fuel, it will reduce heat and still not ping, but you need to run premium, and 93 instead of 91 if possible Ethanol (10% +/-) leans the A/F ratio. While both methanol and ethanol burn cooler by themselves, or in large percentages, ethanol in low percentages creates a lean/hot burn. Believe it or not, low compression generates heat, and a lot of it, especially combined with lean mixtures and late timing. You're better off with 10:1 compression, the right (considerably more than stock, and preferably a well designed aftermarket) camshaft, and moderate timing. (AKA a good tune) will run better and cooler. Honestly, Harley Davidson did about as well as could be expected, given the rules the EPA forces on them. And the limitations the basic package places on them.
Thanks for the reassurance brother! I have a 07 Road Glide with the 96 inch Twin Cam it has an intake, two into one Vance and Hines, Tieman 555 cams and dyno tuned with a power vision tuner. So needless to say, running hot is part of the deal. But I was a little sketched out seeing ETs at 250-265 at the red lights. But with all the research I've been doing it seems fairly normal. Keeping it moving at 50mph + it seems to be anywhere from 200 - 230 which I think is pretty safe for the engine. It has an oil cooler but this Vegas heat doesn't care lol! Thanks again for the video you juts got a new subscriber!
Thank you, I appreciate the sub! Oil temperatures with a cooler being 200 up to 230 are normal and honestly where you want to be. Without a cooler you can get to 250 or even 270 and that's sketchy territory. Head temperatures can be upwards of 300, now if they ever get up to around 350 that's where engine damage can start to occur. Harleys do have some safe guards like pulling timing but that only does so much and you really have to keep air moving over the engine or just shut it off if you're stuck in traffic.
I have a 2000 flstf carberated that runs cool even in the hottest summer and an 06 fuel injected roadking that is like riding around on a barrel stove in the summer.
The FI bikes run hot, they need a good tune to richen up the mixture. Carb bikes don't have to deal with 02 sensors and they are way easier to richen up.
My Twin Cam 103 2013 Switchback with Thundermax ignition, free flowing Supertrapp 2 into 1 exhaust and S&S Stealth air cleaner keeps the oil temp in low 200 range, well below the 250 mark shown in the graph, seems to me one of the most obvious causes of hi temp on touring Harleys is the full fairing and lowers obstructing the air flow to the big twin, just a thought. DW
Switchback is one of the coolest bikes Harley made, a batwing on those and you have to do a double take to realize it's not a street glide. The less obstruction to the engine the cooler it is for sure, you need all the air flow you can get.
Going thru the desert on my way to California from Florida. The oil level stick had a thermometer that read 145 degrees+. I had never seen it get that hot before. Just as we passed a sigh that said 90+ some odd miles to next gas station. We stopped and I bought a bag of ice. My wife held it on the oil tank for 20 min or so as we rode. Yes they do get hot. I have a 111 ci S&S now. It is really hot...
Damn out in the desert that had to be a fun ride trying to keep that bike cooled off. Those 111's put out the power but they also like to shed some heat too!
@@GixxerFoo On that trip 25 years ago. I was on a Sportster. Rode out with my future wife and came back alone. Had to fly her back after we found out she was pregnant with our first child. Don't blink or time will pass you bye. Just subscribed to your channel. You seem to know what you are talking about.
My 103 was like riding on top of a toaster. Even in parade mode it was still hot. Big difference with my M8 in heat displacement. Even better once I had it tuned and dynoed.
I had an oil cooler on my 103 street bob... took it off. I’m sure it helped out the actual engine temps some, but zero on felt heat and I was having problems with the cooler (it was a genuine Harley option part cooler kit) other than exhaust, intake and tune engine wise it’s stock. Always ran AMSOIL and have since the second oil change. And yes it get warm on your legs at stop lights and in very slow traffic. But otherwise felt heat isn’t a issue with it. Never felt that it was too uncomfortable or that the engine was over heating. But based on the performance of it I can tell the difference in the heat, bike absolutely rips when ambient temps are 50-60°F, when it’s 95°F and in stop and go stop light to stop light traffic it gets a little sluggish. But a minute or two of 45+ mph cruising and the sluggishness is gone from the temp drop.
I don't know why H-D kept increasing the displacement. Harleys are not crotch rockets or muscle bikes. They are cruisers and touring bikes. 88ci was enough. 80ci was enough. Because of it's design, a Harley engine simply isn't going to make a lot of power. Just a couple of modifications would have allowed H-D to make a lot more power out of these engines. A short stroke oversquare engine with offset cylinders and crankpins to give it perfect primary balance would have allowed it to make some serious power. Of course then it would no longer have been a Harley engine. Cutting back the displacement and putting a lot more fuel in the air/fuel mixture would have solved the overheating problem. If I were stuck with a Twin Cam engine, I would rebuild it to 88ci, replace the crank and oil pump with S&S items, and also install an S&S geared cam drive. I would also use a carburetor that was jetted properly. You can now convert any Twin Cam engine to a carburetor. You can get a stand along ignition system for it, the correct manifold, and choose from a wide variety of carburetors. You have to completely remove all the EFI garbage from the tank, and install a plate to attach a petcock to. But to me it would be worth it to have a Harley that felt like a Harley, sounded like a Harley, did not overheat, and was reliable.
08 SG, 96 in. I put free flow exhaust, vied from DK Customs, and air cleaner and external breather bolts, also from DK. Oil temps stay at 180 unless 90+ temps or stuck in traffic. Watch DK Customs videos on cooling down your Harley
I don't think EK custom products can reduce your oil temperature almost 200 degrees. If his bike was running at 180 degrees it would not burn off the fuel combustible refuse that accumulates in the motor oil if he said 280 instead of 380 that would be more believable, personally I think it was just a typo.
I cannot intelligently speak on all Twin Cams but 88 and 110 a side mounted oil cooler makes a big difference. As far as the 88 (Now 95ci) everything you recommended makes a huge difference in heat, longevity and performance.
Oil coolers are the best thing you do for a Harley, pretty much all the air cooled metric cruisers have an oil cooler. The fan assisted coolers are awesome, a little extra work to install but well worth it.
Replacing the factory chromed exhaust with a stainless header and muffler seems to have helped the observed engine heat. I've never measured it, but my right leg knows. I still don't want to ride in congested traffic, but I doubt anyone likes that.
The best thing you can do is get rid of the factory exhaust open up the airbox or change it out completely get a power commander, and run two different Maps one for winner and one for summer.
Like sitting on top of a heat register on a 90 degree day! I love the sound and look of most V twin bikes but the heat boiling up from the engine is too much for me, I'll stick with my goldwing most of the heat goes outside wide of wear you sit much more comfortable on warm or hot day's.
The "Twin Cooling" system was unfortunate. My buddy's local bike shop seen several almost new bikes come in with bad electric water pumps. They get very angry when that pump goes out.
@Peter, It’s a different experience. I’ve owned 2 Kawasakis, 3 Hondas, 1 Suzuki, and 4 BMWs, all much better bikes. I now own a Road King. There’s something special about the rhythmic rumble, sound and fury of a V-Twin. It’s a unique experience. Kinda takes you back to the first doodle bug you rode as a kid.
I know this may sound like a dumb question. Does the 10% of ethanol in gas have any effect on the cooling property of gas? I’m aware of the other methods you mentioned in this video and was trying to think outside the box. Great video as always.
The Ethanol burns hotter and faster but it's supposed to reduce emissions. I personally don't like putting it in a bike, I use octane booster with Ethanol guard when I have to run that stuff. Theoretically the ethanol would increase the temperature in the air cooled engine, you've given me something to look into and see if I can find a way to test that theory!
Exhaust gas temps are usually hotter with corn fuel. It's less efficient so its burning away faster. Injected engines tolerate it better than carbs. I wouldn't recommend ethanol fuel in any motorcycle engine with over 11 to 1 compression ratio. If you have to run it use Klotz Nitro Octane Booster with Koolinall.
Ethanol creates an artificially leaner mixture, and, given that alcohol burns slower, the timing is effectively retarded. Both increase combustion temperature.
we recently purchased a used 2013 trike with 103. it sears my inner thighs in stop and go. even in cooler weather. i want to do all the upgrades you discussed but im in cali. i think my legal options are limited on fuel and exhaust. i hope i can get it down to tolerable temps. it gets hot here. and we frequently go up in the mountains. she runs hot up those hills! these plastic thigh guards do help. im surprised they have not melted! i might try some foil tape on the inside of them this year. the catalytic gets super hot too. i need to wrap the exhaust before it gets too hot. summer is coming fast! thanks for the fan assist idea. i'm sure it will help some.
There's a lot of guys in California that have a good tune on their bikes and exhaust without cats. But if you are locked into cats on the exhaust and lean fuel tunes I would upgrade to a large fan assisted oil cooler.
EPA laws are meant to be broken! Think about yourself and your engine first. Change your exhausts (bin the cat), get a good tune (more fuel), fan assisted oil cooler, good free flowing air intake system. Then enjoy your ride and forget about 'the law.'
For sure! Yeah the weather has been ridiculous around here, can't ride the bike to work cause of the afternoon's weather. Most of my weekends have been out fighting fires instead of riding.
Nothing ran as hot as my 2002 Yamaha Roadstar. I now own a 2003 Fatboy w the twinkie motor. Yeah it does run a little on the hot side but the Roadstar was way worse - it was carb'd but generated heat like an absolute VOLCANO. Nice thing about a bike running hotter is being in traffic in cold weather. Idling at a light or in traffic gives you a chance to warm up a little.
Bottom line here is that Harley Davidson has always make mistakes when it comes to the engineering of their engines, even the M8 has a lot of failures and beside to the price of the bike you still end up spending money to fix those problems, I think the best way to go is to buy a motorcycle a few years lather when you know a bout the problems you have to deal with and the solutions to those problems that most of the time some other companies end up with the solutions....greetings from Nogales México..
Yeah it's interesting with how much testing and engineering they put into the bikes and still have the issues they do. But some good solutions are out there on the after market, it's a shame you have to do that but it does allow you to get the bike to be what you want.
Funny , my Ducati multistrada has had no heat problems and I have not spent a dime on aftermarket equipment to make it cooler !!! I spent all the $$$ you guys spend on fixing stuff, I spend on gas !!! You guys trying to make your chrome air compressors work better is really funny!!!😁😁😁😁😁🏍🏍🏍🍺🍺🍺🍺
It’s a dam shame that Harley owners have to do this after spending $32K on a new touring bike. I’ve changed my 2012 FLHTK so it runs like it should have from the factory. I’m 71, and if I do have the chance for a next bike, it’s going to be a bike that I won’t have to spend thousands on top of purchase price to perform well out of the factory. Goldwing anybody?
@@Donfleebie1l haven’t spent a dime on my2016 road king heat issue. I bought a new Goldwing, sold it and kept the HD. great bike. 58,000 miles.no road trips during Covid, ready to roll now. And….oil change on the GW cost more than myRK. GO FOR IT.
2000 Fatboy 88B. Harley's accessory oil cooler fits between the front downtubes and is barely noticeable. I also tried to always drive on the shady side of the road. 😃
Thanks for sharing! That's probably another reason why they didn't add them at the factory so they could sell them as an accessory. Oil cooler is an absolute must on any Harley!
Nothing but overheat issues on my 2012 Electra. 2 HD shops said that it was normal (until my warranty expired) . Now ride a Big Dog with a 117 S&S. No problems
Normal for what they are selling. This doesn’t make it good tho. Wise to go an evo style motor. Plus you get the benefit of lots of air about the engine.
Hey man been watching your videos for a while and I’ve learned a ton. With this topic on twin cam heating issues, I know some people like to utilize a tank lift, mostly for looks but I’ve also heard the argument that it helps cool the front cylinder. Any thoughts on this?
Definitely need a oil cooler on the fence between Jagg vs Ultra cool 3.0.. upgraded my 2001 flhtc twincam to the S&S 100 big bore sidewinder. Now i am running much hotter.
It sounds like I really lucked out. I had the dealer install free flowing mufflers and the screaming eagle oil redirection system on my 2000 twin cam bike. The mechanic told me he changed the jets to make it burn correctly because he also reworked the air filter housing by drilling extra holes so it could pull more air. It now has 85,000 miles and barely uses any oil between 5,000 mile changes. I switched to full synthetic soon after buying the bike. So it must now run hot or it would have enough wear to be using oil. I don't know if dealers can legally tune the fuel injection to add more fuel because it might violate air pollution laws but I have seen videos of owners who tuned their injection system to run better. If a person installed an oil cooler and the fan system that mounts where the horn sits, I doubt that engine would ever run too warm.
Stuff the damn EPA laws!!! What about engine overheating damage and rider suffering. If you are having a problem from Harley dealer retuning your twin cam find a sympathetic mechanic who will do the retune on the quiet!
Thank you! I appreciate it! Twin Cams are fascinating engines to me, they get a lot of grief for some of the weak spots they really aren't bad engines.
I bought an 07 Ultra with the TC96 this fall. It has Rinehart full exhaust and an S&S air cleaner. I haven't had it tuned yet but, can anyone tell me why the previous owner would have left the O2 sensors unplugged? Nice video by the way. Info I needed. Thanks!
Their are a couple possible reasons, however most likely he was attempting to get the ECM to push it's richest AFR without having to buy a tuner. The other possibility is they were throwing an engine code and that was a cheap fix.
Yeah as Carl Bruhn mentioned rich afr or trying get around some issues. How doe the bike run with the sensors unplugged and do you have a engine light on? It may of been professionally tuned at one point and had some ECM work done.
I forgot about the oil filter I added on the bike. In Sturges a few years ago there was a vendor selling oil filters that you reused. Had two design aspect I like so I bot one. One, it had a magnet inside and would grab anything metallic flowing by. I like that idea. But more important was that it was all aluminum and had fins for cooling. They said I'd get a few hp out of it. Don't believe it, but I do think it helps cooling. Maybe all in my mind, but that's cool. Like the look, like the idea. Never bot another throw away oil cooler so it's all good. As always, great video. Thanks!
The reusable oil filters are high dollar up front but they do help with cooling and it's the last oil filter you ever have to buy. You might get a little horsepower out of it theoretically, cooler engines make more power but I maybe not enough to really though power wise.
Love that filter. Will stop stuff to 2 Microns where the smallest on anything else seems to be around 10. Add that to the right oil and a stage 1 mod and you will have a motor that runs around 200 degrees. It will save you a ton of money over the long haul. 😎
My stage 1: Free flowing air cleaner, exhaust and Thundermax ECM. Stage 2 will be using a S&S create motor when the stock motor goes and the parts will carry over.
On my 2014 twin cooled Limited I added Dynojet Power Vision tuner Bassani 2 into 1 exhaust High flow air cleaner Vented breather externally Removed left side heat deflector, lets air flow through back of engine better
I have had many mc's over 50 years of riding, all makes and models, best you can do is a multi-pass oil cooler with good syn oil, good tune, and keep it in the wind if it's aircooled, which all my present HD's are. there are friction modifiers (oil additives) available, molly, or tefflon I found work best. reduce the friction, reduce the wear and heat. or move to Alaska.
I had a 2016 Dyna Street Bob TC103 with VandH radius pipe not Staged. When I first rode at 80 f air temperature I thought that engine was gonna burn or explode. Just after this ride I took it to my mechanic and told him to Stage One it (air filter plus ECU), and the bike was running then cooler to my not staged Evo 1200 from 2013.
Recently put a factory oil cooler on my 2008 96 Fat Bob after noticing the heat last summer. Took about an hour to install it. Highly recommend for anyone with a 96 or 103.
Thanks brother that was good content quite a bit I didn't know about the twin cam I've learned from you and I appreciate it I did the build on my 88 to knowledge from what you put out there and I'm very happy with it but and this will probably be the last bike I ever owned so I'm never going to have to get into the bigger displacement Harley's of today I really appreciate it then from the info you put out is helping somebody somewhere cuz it sure does help me thanks brother hope that all makes sense I'm at work but just got done listening to the heat issue thing I remember when they came out with the 96 that couple people I knew that had them were just the rear cylinders were just above being hot it was ridiculous
That's awesome to hear you got your 88 built out! The 96's were stupid hot, Twin Cam engine was just not meant to run that lean but Harley kept adapting that design to "work". It's a tough motor and it did what it was asked but getting them cooled off and running where they should be is the best thing you can do with one.
Do you recommend one oil cooler over another? I have run Ultracool in the past and had good luck. Jagg is good too but for the cost UC is a better buy in my opinion.
I am getting a 98 kit with professional tuning for a TC88 06 SG. Yes, I switch tensioners to hydrologic tensioners too--thanks for the advice on that! I am running love jugs with it. Is it necessary to run a oil cooler too?
I went from a 1996 80" Heritage to a FI 2001 88" Heritage and the difference in heat is ridiculous! I'm hoping to put an oil cooler on it this summer to make it more pleasant to ride.
Man, another great video! Thanks GixxerFoo. I have an 01 88 RK 41k miles. Tore into camplate last night. I cut pushrods not realizing they're over $200 to replace with adjustable kit. On a budget here. New camplate or cams? I know how you feel about lifters. I don't have $1800 right now but I want to ride so what would you do. Bike runs great. I know I should just put new $50 tensioner in and be done but... thoughts? OK so I ended up ordering the Fueling cam chest kit 7320 which comes with the 525 grind cams. Any idea where to start with the carburetor?
On a budget the a new set of spring tensioners will work, but since you ordered the entire cam chest kit you'll be good to go. They should send you a chart to get a basic setup on the carb to get started, really depends on where you live what jetting you'll need.
Thank you, yeah all the new M8's have the oil cooler standard. They did a really good job on it putting it between the down tubes on the front of the Softail, it's really cleanly integrated.
How hot does your Twin Cam run and what have you done to cool that motor down?
Amsoil, exhaust, intake, and a tune.
A PROPER tune. I'm thinking of a side Jagg oil cooler if i go south.
I have twin cam 96ci. I'm sitting around 270-285° cruising and up to 315-320° in traffic. That's with woods 222 cams, dual exhaust and fuelmoto powervision tune. That's head temp reading to the powervision.
@@theoldboyscout3662 I suggest watching DK Customs videos on cooling down your Harley. Great info and I very inexpensively lowered my oil temperature 50 degrees with exhaust, DK Customs VIED, and 606 air cleaner.
@@fxrmike5145 Yeah, DK Customs seem to have good info on everything V-Twin, especially the cooling aspect of the Twin Cam!
TC103, V&H exhaust, catless dresser duals, Twin Slash Rounds, FP3, Rinehart Racing Intake, Wood TW222Cam, Golden Spectro Synthetic Oil. Night and day difference. My cylinder de activation never comes on anymore. It’s like a different motor altogether. Cam really was the game changer. My bike detonated everyday I had it until I did these mods last year. The motor would ‘Ping’ riding down the highway when I fed it throttle. I’m surprised it didn’t seize up before I did these changes.
One of my friends has an early fuel injected twin cam. To mitigate heat issues he has put on a tank lift and installed a FuelPack, he's planning on getting a Jagg Fan Assisted Oil Cooler. The FuelPack with the new tune enriched his air/fuel mixture and that significantly made the engine run cooler as well as produce more power. He also uses a full synthetic engine oil which reduces friction and in turn reduces heat and wear.
Sounds like he's done all the right things on there! If its the Magnetti Marelli system those things can be a pain if you start having issues with them.
I ride a 2012 Twin cam. As I am an old school rider ( first shovel head in 1970) I now ride between June and September and have my hoss running a Stage 1. I only run Amsoil 60wt in the motor and dedicated Amsoil in the primary and trans. She rarely gets over210 degrees even on the hottest days. I however stay out of the city as much as possible Keep up the good work Brother and remember to not be flapping those wings. 😂👍🏻😎
Good video. I mentioned getting an oil cooler to my salesman when I purchased it in 2012 and he said it was not needed. 10 years later and not much slow speed or stop n go I still think I should have got one
I am really surprised they didn't try to sell you one, they really do make a big difference.
2 words.
Love Jugs!!!
I run a tune and mighty mite love jugs. No heat issues on my 14’ Street Glide.
Those Mighty Mites are awesome, they actually out perform the original Love Jugs.
04 RK...I notice out on long rides it starts to feel like it's losing power/struggling, and that's not sitting in traffic either, that's out on the open road.
Full Rinehart exhaust, Always synthetic oil, I also have the twin cooled 103 and a Dynojet tuner. Normal oil temp is about 210-220. Engine temp I'm thinking 250-275. From what I've read that seems pretty good. I do my best to stay out of stop and go traffic.
Those are some really good temperatures all things considered in those situations, that's where I'd want to be myself!
wow! I can't believe people actually pay money for these caveman tech bikes.
@@elonmust7470 and yet here you are trolling away. You should be very proud of your personal brand little man
@@heybruh3274 Grow a thicker skin.....
So the EPA is the culprit? It’s amazing how much they hurt when they “help”.
Nothing worse than "I'm from the government and I'm here to help" lol.
EPA has always been trouble to HD,including bottom end noise
Anytime the government "helps", they do more damage than if they left things alone.
Gov makes shit more inefficient like it is. Money wasting government.
Just like they do with everything else.
I’ve got love jugs on my ‘01 FLTRSE.It was the first accessory I bought for the bike.It’s switched over to a CV carb.Great ride with over 100k on the motor,(top end was probably done before I bought it).I try to stay sittin’ in the shade when it’s real hot,but it sure runs happy during cool mornings and evenings.
I have a 2017 Harley Davidson heritage I live very close to New York City and my love jugs ,what a blessing.
Man you should have been a teacher direct to the point and very plain two thumbs up man
Thank you, I really appreciate that!
2014 TC103 with the lower compression 110" kit. I have a Jaggs fan assist oil cooler which keeps oil temp at 205 consistently. The cylinder temp can get to 285 to 290 in the summer in slower moving conditions. Thinking seriously of a set of Mighty Mites to protect my investment. Keep up the great videos!
Those are some awesome temperature numbers, especially with a 110 kit on there. Adding the fans would for sure help lower the head temperatures quite a bit!
I've got a 128 Stage 4 on my '17 Limited. After market exhaust, obviously to get rid of the converter. Third party tune to get out from under Harley limits. That's all I've done and my bike consistently runs in the 160-180 degree range unless I'm sitting and idling for more than 30 minutes, then it creeps up over 200. Temps ran higher when it was a 107; the bigger motor appears to be cooler all on its own.
This video makes me feel like I'm ok leaving my stage 1, tuned 2005 TC 88 alone and not messing around with an add on oil cooler. So thanks for that.
It's perfectly okay if you're happy with a good tune, exhaust and air cleaner. My personal thought is they make excellent torque and they do it reliably just like that. Don't get me wrong I love a built motor and they are a lot of fun but you can't beat something solidly reliable and just does it's job.
@@GixxerFoo I do have a 6 speed gear box and im very thankful for that change that was made. I just wish I had more top end grunt. On the run out to Sturgis across minnesota and south dakota I was running wide open the whole time and my friends on a 107 and a 114 were just walking away from me. I can do maybe 90. Depends on the headwinds!
I have 14 SGS 103 to CVO 110 update. No emission stuff. Used FP3 to fatten idle mixture. Added love jugs. Yeah, right leg and passenger foot do suffer, but it’s manageable.
According to FP3, it’s never been over 315 while stuck in summer traffic. I’ve also used EITMS during stupid hot days. I’m not convinced EITMS actually makes a difference. It does shake the shit out of the motor mounts.
Prior to rebuild, the 103 often saw over 400 sitting in traffic. I once told Nana, “if it catches fire, just step off.” I did the 110 update @55k miles. Now have 69k miles.
One day, I’m gonna buy a water cooled scooter, I have an excellent local HD dealer and I’m hoping the MoCo will address the new Pursuit so we can continue to do business. I’m in no hurry and apparently, neither is the MoCo.
That's awesome, if it catches fire just step off lol. Nice upgrades though by the way! I hope Harley comes out with a big inch liquid cooled twin here soon!
Thanks!
Thank you for the tip! Goes a long way in keeping things rolling, I really appreciate it!
Thankfully my 02 Fatboy has a carb. No tuning issues. 95 CI, nice little cam, 2-1 race pipe, a high flow intake, and a Mikuni 42 to keep things working.
I really like those Mikuni carbs, they are a lot simpler than the CV with less to go wrong.
Now your talking. My 05 FXDWG was carbureted from new, is also a 95", 10 to 1 and a healthy cam. No heat issues here!
Adding an oil cooler should be #1 on mods. I have a single downtube cooler (Pro-One Chrome Oil Cooler Kit - 201050, paired with a JAGG 4700 thermostat oil filter adapter) that has made all the difference in the world. Forget about cooling for rider comfort.. Cooling for engine reliability and longevity is the real benefit.
Great point! Keeping the engine cooler also produces more power, those oil coolers are the best thing you can do for a Harley.
thanks for this fam. im gonna get this as well especially since my 17 fxdb is my main transportation and i live in the hottest city of the US Yuma Arizona lol
Great great review! Keep ‘em coming! Even though I ride a 1982 KZ650 and 1975 RD200, I love all motorcycles!
That's awesome! I love those KZ's! I love how Kawasaki is bringing them back with the Z models!
@@GixxerFoo no joke. The red anniversary edition Z900RS they just dropped is perhaps the best retro bike I've ever seen and for sure the best retro from the the Japanese big four.
And no shame op. I watched Gixer and a couple of other guys for over a year before I finally bit the bullet and added a sportster 48 to accompany my Kawasaki rice Rocket.. and I still want more. Next will be a BMW Nine T, Aprilia Tuono, or a Ducati Panigale. Gotta have something euro to round out the collection. If I didn't have the sporty, it would probably be a Triumph bobber or thruxton.
I still haven't put that Ultra-Cool on my 110 yet. Thanks for giving me another nudge with this video. Spring is here. It's time to ride.
It's well worth it once you get in those first few rides and see the difference!
Sitting in traffic not for me take a different route and keep that air moving. Ride safe and keep riding.
For sure! I can't count how many times I've been stuck in traffic by a accident several miles up.
All I know is the more information you present, the happier I am keeping my 2001 88/95 carbureted Roadking!
Intake, exhaust improved and re-jetted carburetor.
And "magic" synthetic oil of course.
I am huge fan of the earlier models, especially the year you have with the Timken lower end. Harley never should of gotten away from that.
And the happier i am with the big four tourers. 😊
I recently had a thundermax put in and it changed the game for me. Not a cheap upgrade however i feel it make changes on cold vs hot days and its like a clock now. Also run waaay cooler
They ain't cheap, that's for sure! Those wide band sensors make all the difference!
I’ve done everything but oil cooler and hopefully I can squeeze it out of the budget for this season. It’s definitely better than what it was when I bought it. Last upgrade last year was S&S head pipe. It definitely moves more air and the heat is now farther away from me.
Exhaust makes a big difference on these air cooled bikes, especially if you ride a touring bike with the cat in the head pipe. No idea what Harley was thinking on that one.
Your comment says one day ago.
I'll try to make this quick and logical
In the past I've always figured I'm smarter than the designers and price department has been as much as 8 hours a day looking at stuff on the web parts and pieces and pieces of parts and writing down the prices and oh wow I save 50 cents here oh look I got a dollar and a half off better over that other and pieced together my own oil cooler kits that since oh I'd say 2017 110 Dyna S no when you find that decent itemized cooler all parts necessary to bolt on you buy it.
But I'm still more stubborn than that at first then you find out you better look at all the little fine print and details of just exactly how it hooks up and routes in and what it's going to do and then you look at all the choices again I spend weeks I'm retired on disability I got nothing else to do to sit here on the couch until I free up pain I can go for a ride and I'm not telling you look at anything else but you can't see the Chase and they're expensive look at the ultra brand oil coolers that have a thermostat screws into the pancake adapter that comes with it allows you to vote on two oil cooler lines and your filter and something about it plug filler bypass pop off ball and spring in there and the adapter that nobody else has got or if the oil has to be a little too cold in a bypass that cooler till it gets warm enough the lower viscosity hot oil well circulate to the cooler and not starving your engine ever of any oil eliminating all possibilities for anything to go wrong which is kind of nice as it's explained quite well and why they're so proud of it with the price about 400 bucks for this whole kit but you look around today and they're going nuts on them all cooler prices has more people become aware
And if alter brand dealers are still the highest price on your list of choices go back and look at your list of choices and subtract the difference in price and keep in mind that Powerball valve that will blow when the oil is too thick and will not starve your engine until it warms up and then it'll operate properly that little feature alone is insurance and you probably won't find a difference of 100 bucks between any of the deluxe kits and ultra that should make the choice for you you're only doing this one time you don't have a whole fleet of Harley's do you and if you do you're a rich bastard and I hate you.... And thank all the poor bastards you can't afford a Harley so they go out and buy a Honda goldwing and cost 33,000 base price what's wrong with this picture see you dude get all the killer plug and play and forget it your engine it will be safe oh yeah disconnect those head vents that blows oil into your throttle body and forces your engine to burn oil like it's wore out and take those vents and put them in a line and take them over and hook them into one of those little tiny k&N looking crankcase filters you can buy it on his own and your computer will not see the hydrocarbons from the oxygen sensors that are also reading the oil you're burning plus the gas Lane and it tells the computer oh my word rich and the computer knocks back on the gasoline and it causes it to suck more oil until it's happy with what it thinks is a air fuel mixture but is really an air fuel oil mixture you get them oil vents out of that intake like I said you know what I'm talking about and your ECU will only see pure hydrocarbons from the O2 sensor levels that are only from the fuel and it'll be lean then they'll add more fuel and guess what delusion gas mileage but you'll burn forever more than your buddies and Smokey's ass and I just understood that as I was told that that all out Dino tracks or going to be back in town.... And if you do don't pin the throttle under the Rev lantern and let go of the clutch lever at 6500 like I did that Dymo wheel it's a strap your rear tire down on is wrapped with expanded diamond plate that pretty much matches the tread grooves on about any tire that hooks up then they take ratchet straps and put an extra 500 lb of load on top of that when I crush your suspension down on it and if you pop that clutch that rear tire doesn't slip a thousands of an inch where it would normally burn out on a asphalt strip and I got to thinking about that after what happened the next day as my back tire stopped turning and I told him to come get it cuz they said it's under warranty even with a stage 4 a little extra I got this funny feeling when it's sitting there and I will get to it next weekend is January very next day the fxdr was launched and I said what's this and they said we don't know that one's coming in at 2:30 I said get the salesman and we traded right then for seven Grand... And the following week I rolled in there just looking at things and they jump my s*** said what the f*** did you do that God damn Dyna . I said hold on here it's not mine anymore it's yours just to piss him off more cuz I didn't like your attitude they said when they pulled the primary the clutch basket fell out in a form of aluminum gravel and it compensating sprocket look like a cartoon wind-up clock that heckling jackal had turned off the alarm with their beaks as it was a big old spring almost went through the cases and and when the crankshaft would turn the end of it wobbles up and down pretty much that was due from probably the primary chain was busted in half and then and I still have it right now I can't hardly tell it they had put and talked me into it for only 160 bucks more I can have them pull out off road big mouth can I compression heads on top of my stage 4 and just twist and horsepower of it like crazy and I don't know what came over then but they had to call the factory about installing him and probably let some secretary do the paperwork and she just checked my serial numbers right in there and it was racing heads are going on Factory warranted and poop my dealer had to pay for the rebuilt f****** done I blew apart on they all out Dyno drags track that they sponsored and watch me do it ... And Scott here cannonball Harley who changed it and gave it his third chain on the dyno with a brand new screaming eagle clutch slipping put another screaming eagle Colossians which was the mistake I should have just forfeited warranty and you got a Baker King Kong in it and I was probably still be riding it but with the TTS 2 complete stage 4 with the optional off-road warranty canceling high compression heads which are in a 9.6 at 123 against the booster 9.7 and 130 that was my reaction time of owe something almost a perfect light I got there first to a butt hurt busa I came equipped with whining fanboys made my day
The increase in heat also correlates to the changes in the formula required by the EPA to gasoline. Gas is nothing similar to the type of leaded fuels made in the past. Ethanol burns at a higher temp creating additional heat to burn cleaner. Then as you said HD had to install a catalyst in the exhaust systems.
One option for additional oil cooling is the Oil Bud Oil Cooler. It lays under the engine case between the frame rails. The oil cooler works!! I have one on my 124" Trike along with the cylinder fans blowing on the heads at the spark plug.
That's an awesome idea and a great point on the Ethanol fuels! I try to avoid Ethanol in the bike if at all possible, but it's getting hard to find 100% gas these days. I carry octane booster with ethanol guard for those times I have to run that stuff.
GixxerFoo, look it internal thermal barrier coatings. I used it on internals of a 102" air cooled Yamaha V-twin with HC forged pistons and it didn't ping while idling in 100F air temp. Others with the same setup but no thermal barrier coating resorted to doubling up on base gaskets no stop pinging, which partially defeats the purpose of HC pistons. Water cooled motors can better control temps so don't need the coating.
Interesting! That's just like ceramic coating on exhaust headers which expels heat and actually speeds up exhaust scavenging.
@@GixxerFoo Yes, I did the piston tops, combustion chambers, valve heads facing the combustion chamber and the exhaust ports. The exhaust ports done to stop hot exhaust from heating the head which in turn heats the intake charge.
I haven’t noticed the heat from my 2001 FXSTB. 136K miles and have taken long trips too. Jacksonville Florida to Sturgis SD. 7000 mile trip. Rode to Sturgis and back home. We did 1000 miles a day to get there. Of course my bike has carburetor and isn’t modified much.
Good content....de- catted 103, woods 222 cam and a tune from fp3 folks ..at your suggestion...smoooooth..carry on .
That 222 is one awesome cam! They will put some power down with the setup you have!
I have fitted and FP3 fuel pack,love jugs,and a 10 fin non fan assisted oil cooler, exhaust and air filter and also fitted a external breather system, according to the FP3 data monitor the engine never gets above 250 degrees even on the hottest days,I live in Western Australia and we have really hot summer days,the only drawback is as you mentioned the love jugs blowing hot air on you legs which is only an issue in traffic.
Thanks for sharing, that's awesome you're staying under 250 even in the heat! You can't beat that, that's some really good numbers!
I had a header pipe and tuner [rinehart mufflers were already on it] put on my 2012 RK and switched from 20/50 synthetic to 50w synthetic and to help reduce the heat, so far it is pretty good.
50W is a great summer oil, when it's hot you don't need the 20 in the summer lol. Now for sure run the 20w50 in the winder though.
One of the reasons I love my 03 FXDP with 04 95ci and 42mm Mikuni, Although she still gets a little hot in 95+ degree weather, but not too bad, live in NY traffic hell but my brand new 95ci does great, takes time to get a HD where you want it, I'm going on around 9 years, once you get the bugs out of them, they're pretty good 👍 I love my bike, she's finally getting there 😆
That's the best part of a Harley is making it your own, it does takes some time to get it the way you want but it's well worth the journey.
My last stock 103, when I was riding to work at 0430, I could look down when I got into the country with not much light out and the headers were glowing. I took it to harley a bunch of times and they said “probably normal, it’s a hot engine” that engine detonated and didn’t last.
Yeah there's nothing normal about that, Harleys run hot and you really need a cooler.
You guys forget one thing, the majority of you guys cool off the twin-cam by enrich ing the fuel mixture. Putting it out of compliance with EPA standards and if your state goes to smog testing for motorcycles, you guys are going to be shipped out of luck because without no certificate you can't get insurance, for a license for your bike. My Evolution motor bike run at 200° at the oil tank in Florida in August two up. It is now considered an antique, so I don't have to worry about stuff like that. I have gone to bike event where twin cam motorcycles were tinkling and they were still making the same noises 5 hours later. On a twin cam Harley-Davidson motorcycle the engine gets is hot enough that you could cook a turkey on it. The Evolution motor was cooler Runnings then the Shovelhead, but all of their new big twin models run hot as hell, and part of that is because the engine is so damn huge. My dead uncle 1937 Harley knucklehead was only 61 cubic inches it was a Super Lite 500 lb Speedster with a certificate that it went 110 miles an hour from the factory. And it cost my uncle just over $500 on the road. So when you have an engine twice as big as the original overhead valve motor of course all things considered it's still going to put out twice as much heat. No way around that.
You and are pretty fortunate to be in what seem to be the free states theses days. California and riders up in the places like New York smog testing is where I could see emissions testing on motorcycles eventually. You just made another great case for the Evo though! Those bikes are starting to hit the 25 year mark to be considered antiques and exempt from a lot of things!
I was on vacation riding my 2009 107”. I got caught in OK City one August in a traffic jam. Even with a Stage One Kit, the heat was unbearable. I installed an oil cooler when I got home. Now with my 2021 Road Glide, it’s so much cooler of a ride.
Really?! OKC is my stomping grounds lol, yeah you have a wreck on the interstate and you can sit there for hours waiting to get traffic moving again.
We have a highly tuned twin cam road glide,runs a lot better with oil cooler,it has a thermostat and it is still needed even in winter
Oh yeah they will still put off some heat in the winter, but they run damn good in the cooler weather.
I put a lot of miles on a 2003 88ci Twinkie Softail. She didn’t produce much power, but ran like a champ, flawlessly even, for 73,000 miles. Didn’t really notice any excessive heat. I just bought a 2011 Road King. Man, she seems to run hot. And it doesn’t help that I was riding her aggressively on a 95 degree day. She has a factory oil cooler but I added a remote oil filter to get it out in the breeze a bit. I’m thinking about adding a Howe Racing cool tube to those now extended oil lines. That makes sense to me. And once I get the exhaust where I want it, I think I’ll take your advice and get a proper dyno tune.
Both of my bikes get hot in traffic sitting.
Pay attention to timing. It's a fine line, but ignition advance will reduce the temp, especially the exhaust temp. The EPA hates ignition advance because it tends to increase HC. But if you have enough fuel, it will reduce heat and still not ping, but you need to run premium, and 93 instead of 91 if possible
Ethanol (10% +/-) leans the A/F ratio. While both methanol and ethanol burn cooler by themselves, or in large percentages, ethanol in low percentages creates a lean/hot burn.
Believe it or not, low compression generates heat, and a lot of it, especially combined with lean mixtures and late timing.
You're better off with 10:1 compression, the right (considerably more than stock, and preferably a well designed aftermarket) camshaft, and moderate timing. (AKA a good tune) will run better and cooler.
Honestly, Harley Davidson did about as well as could be expected, given the rules the EPA forces on them. And the limitations the basic package places on them.
Synthetic oil can also take much higher heat before it starts breaking down compared to conventional oils.
Oh yeah it's some really good stuff and it's incredible the kind of temperatures it can deal with!
Thanks for the reassurance brother! I have a 07 Road Glide with the 96 inch Twin Cam it has an intake, two into one Vance and Hines, Tieman 555 cams and dyno tuned with a power vision tuner. So needless to say, running hot is part of the deal. But I was a little sketched out seeing ETs at 250-265 at the red lights. But with all the research I've been doing it seems fairly normal. Keeping it moving at 50mph + it seems to be anywhere from 200 - 230 which I think is pretty safe for the engine. It has an oil cooler but this Vegas heat doesn't care lol! Thanks again for the video you juts got a new subscriber!
Thank you, I appreciate the sub! Oil temperatures with a cooler being 200 up to 230 are normal and honestly where you want to be. Without a cooler you can get to 250 or even 270 and that's sketchy territory. Head temperatures can be upwards of 300, now if they ever get up to around 350 that's where engine damage can start to occur. Harleys do have some safe guards like pulling timing but that only does so much and you really have to keep air moving over the engine or just shut it off if you're stuck in traffic.
Couldn't agree with you more and I look forward to learning more from you. Thanks for taking the time to help us out. Thats why I love this community!
I have a 2000 flstf carberated that runs cool even in the hottest summer and an 06 fuel injected roadking that is like riding around on a barrel stove in the summer.
The FI bikes run hot, they need a good tune to richen up the mixture. Carb bikes don't have to deal with 02 sensors and they are way easier to richen up.
The upgraded cam plate oil pump helps a lot.
My Twin Cam 103 2013 Switchback with Thundermax ignition, free flowing Supertrapp 2 into 1 exhaust and S&S Stealth air cleaner keeps the oil temp in low 200 range, well below the 250 mark shown in the graph, seems to me one of the most obvious causes of hi temp on touring Harleys is the full fairing and lowers obstructing the air flow to the big twin, just a thought. DW
Switchback is one of the coolest bikes Harley made, a batwing on those and you have to do a double take to realize it's not a street glide. The less obstruction to the engine the cooler it is for sure, you need all the air flow you can get.
Going thru the desert on my way to California from Florida. The oil level stick had a thermometer that read 145 degrees+. I had never seen it get that hot before. Just as we passed a sigh that said 90+ some odd miles to next gas station. We stopped and I bought a bag of ice. My wife held it on the oil tank for 20 min or so as we rode. Yes they do get hot. I have a 111 ci S&S now. It is really hot...
Damn out in the desert that had to be a fun ride trying to keep that bike cooled off. Those 111's put out the power but they also like to shed some heat too!
@@GixxerFoo On that trip 25 years ago. I was on a Sportster. Rode out with my future wife and came back alone. Had to fly her back after we found out she was pregnant with our first child. Don't blink or time will pass you bye. Just subscribed to your channel. You seem to know what you are talking about.
@@jeffreydavidconner Awesome story, and great wisdom. I’d bet the kid turned out OK.
My 103 was like riding on top of a toaster. Even in parade mode it was still hot. Big difference with my M8 in heat displacement. Even better once I had it tuned and dynoed.
There's a huge difference in that M8, that bike is designed to run lean and wasn't basically retrofitted to do so like the Twin Cam.
What bike did you have a 103 in? I don’t think mine has ever went into parade mode, even on 90°+ days sitting in traffic.
@@chevyon37s it was a 2010 road king. That was with me rolling the throttle forward. It didn’t do it on its own.
I had an oil cooler on my 103 street bob... took it off.
I’m sure it helped out the actual engine temps some, but zero on felt heat and I was having problems with the cooler (it was a genuine Harley option part cooler kit) other than exhaust, intake and tune engine wise it’s stock. Always ran AMSOIL and have since the second oil change. And yes it get warm on your legs at stop lights and in very slow traffic. But otherwise felt heat isn’t a issue with it. Never felt that it was too uncomfortable or that the engine was over heating. But based on the performance of it I can tell the difference in the heat, bike absolutely rips when ambient temps are 50-60°F, when it’s 95°F and in stop and go stop light to stop light traffic it gets a little sluggish. But a minute or two of 45+ mph cruising and the sluggishness is gone from the temp drop.
I don't know why H-D kept increasing the displacement. Harleys are not crotch rockets or muscle bikes. They are cruisers and touring bikes. 88ci was enough. 80ci was enough. Because of it's design, a Harley engine simply isn't going to make a lot of power. Just a couple of modifications would have allowed H-D to make a lot more power out of these engines. A short stroke oversquare engine with offset cylinders and crankpins to give it perfect primary balance would have allowed it to make some serious power. Of course then it would no longer have been a Harley engine. Cutting back the displacement and putting a lot more fuel in the air/fuel mixture would have solved the overheating problem.
If I were stuck with a Twin Cam engine, I would rebuild it to 88ci, replace the crank and oil pump with S&S items, and also install an S&S geared cam drive. I would also use a carburetor that was jetted properly. You can now convert any Twin Cam engine to a carburetor. You can get a stand along ignition system for it, the correct manifold, and choose from a wide variety of carburetors. You have to completely remove all the EFI garbage from the tank, and install a plate to attach a petcock to. But to me it would be worth it to have a Harley that felt like a Harley, sounded like a Harley, did not overheat, and was reliable.
Harley is really all about torque output, larger displacement really produces some serious torque down low.
08 SG, 96 in. I put free flow exhaust, vied from DK Customs, and air cleaner and external breather bolts, also from DK. Oil temps stay at 180 unless 90+ temps or stuck in traffic. Watch DK Customs videos on cooling down your Harley
Nice work! DK Customs has some awesome products for cooling, they've done an excellent job putting together cooling products.
I don't think EK custom products can reduce your oil temperature almost 200 degrees. If his bike was running at 180 degrees it would not burn off the fuel combustible refuse that accumulates in the motor oil if he said 280 instead of 380 that would be more believable, personally I think it was just a typo.
This was/is some EXCELLENT information!!! Great video!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I cannot intelligently speak on all Twin Cams but 88 and 110 a side mounted oil cooler makes a big difference. As far as the 88 (Now 95ci) everything you recommended makes a huge difference in heat, longevity and performance.
Oil coolers are the best thing you do for a Harley, pretty much all the air cooled metric cruisers have an oil cooler. The fan assisted coolers are awesome, a little extra work to install but well worth it.
Replacing the factory chromed exhaust with a stainless header and muffler seems to have helped the observed engine heat. I've never measured it, but my right leg knows. I still don't want to ride in congested traffic, but I doubt anyone likes that.
That's an excellent point! That would really help dissipate heat a lot better! Ceramic coating on exhaust headers is awesome for that!
The best thing you can do is get rid of the factory exhaust open up the airbox or change it out completely get a power commander, and run two different Maps one for winner and one for summer.
Summer and Winter maps are a real things, I do the same things myself when we get full on into a season.
I solved My heat problem on My 05 883 by putting 8 inch fork extensions on. I'm not any cooler but I look better sweating !
In the end it's all about style on a Harley anyhow!
@@GixxerFoo and feel along with the sound.
I don’t care what anyone else thinks. I ride it because I love it. 😎
Like sitting on top of a heat register on a 90 degree day! I love the sound and look of most V twin bikes but the heat boiling up from the engine is too much for me, I'll stick with my goldwing most of the heat goes outside wide of wear you sit much more comfortable on warm or hot day's.
They do radiate some heat in the summer, especially sitting at stop lights!
Thank you! 🙂
Any time!
The "Twin Cooling" system was unfortunate. My buddy's local bike shop seen several almost new bikes come in with bad electric water pumps. They get very angry when that pump goes out.
Those water pumps have been a nightmare on those bikes, they had serious issues with the housings cracking first.
The updated pump does not fail. I've installed hundreds of them.
@@ranchodeluxe1
All pumps fail eventually, give it time.
@@upsidedowndog1256 Real stroke of brilliance, that.
@Peter, It’s a different experience. I’ve owned 2 Kawasakis, 3 Hondas, 1 Suzuki, and 4 BMWs, all much better bikes. I now own a Road King. There’s something special about the rhythmic rumble, sound and fury of a V-Twin. It’s a unique experience. Kinda takes you back to the first doodle bug you rode as a kid.
Harley still did good, selling technology of 40s for 80 years.:))
Tuning mine was an immediately noticeable difference in heat. Huge difference.
It's crazy how much a good tune helps and improves things!
Running a larger exhaust valves and reprogramming the ignition helps.
Oh yeah you really get into it and larger valves goes a very long way for power and cooling!
I know this may sound like a dumb question. Does the 10% of ethanol in gas have any effect on the cooling property of gas? I’m aware of the other methods you mentioned in this video and was trying to think outside the box. Great video as always.
The Ethanol burns hotter and faster but it's supposed to reduce emissions. I personally don't like putting it in a bike, I use octane booster with Ethanol guard when I have to run that stuff. Theoretically the ethanol would increase the temperature in the air cooled engine, you've given me something to look into and see if I can find a way to test that theory!
More ethanol should run cooler not hotter. This is why all the turbo guys use it
Exhaust gas temps are usually hotter with corn fuel. It's less efficient so its burning away faster. Injected engines tolerate it better than carbs. I wouldn't recommend ethanol fuel in any motorcycle engine with over 11 to 1 compression ratio. If you have to run it use Klotz Nitro Octane Booster with Koolinall.
Ethanol creates an artificially leaner mixture, and, given that alcohol burns slower, the timing is effectively retarded. Both increase combustion temperature.
Bike sat for 2 years and the ethanol gummed up my carburetor so bad I had to get a used one
we recently purchased a used 2013 trike with 103. it sears my inner thighs in stop and go. even in cooler weather. i want to do all the upgrades you discussed but im in cali. i think my legal options are limited on fuel and exhaust. i hope i can get it down to tolerable temps. it gets hot here. and we frequently go up in the mountains. she runs hot up those hills! these plastic thigh guards do help. im surprised they have not melted! i might try some foil tape on the inside of them this year. the catalytic gets super hot too. i need to wrap the exhaust before it gets too hot. summer is coming fast! thanks for the fan assist idea. i'm sure it will help some.
There's a lot of guys in California that have a good tune on their bikes and exhaust without cats. But if you are locked into cats on the exhaust and lean fuel tunes I would upgrade to a large fan assisted oil cooler.
EPA laws are meant to be broken! Think about yourself and your engine first. Change your exhausts (bin the cat), get a good tune (more fuel), fan assisted oil cooler, good free flowing air intake system. Then enjoy your ride and forget about 'the law.'
Well said 100% cheers from Oz
Thank you! I hope the video was helpful!
I am running a Ultra Cool oil cooler and love jugs on my 2010 Road Glide. The bike runs cool in hot weather.
Right on, that is some of the best things you can do on a Harley, what temperatures are you running?
Sounds like a lot of whining. I've got 35K miles on my 103B and only notice heat in stop & go traffic, which I mostly avoid.
Always excellent content.
Thank you! I appreciate the support!
Can't wait for some more consistent weather in Oklahoma so I can get the bike out more. We need to go ride sometime. Thanks for sharing!
For sure! Yeah the weather has been ridiculous around here, can't ride the bike to work cause of the afternoon's weather. Most of my weekends have been out fighting fires instead of riding.
Nothing ran as hot as my 2002 Yamaha Roadstar. I now own a 2003 Fatboy w the twinkie motor. Yeah it does run a little on the hot side but the Roadstar was way worse - it was carb'd but generated heat like an absolute VOLCANO. Nice thing about a bike running hotter is being in traffic in cold weather. Idling at a light or in traffic gives you a chance to warm up a little.
Bottom line here is that Harley Davidson has always make mistakes when it comes to the engineering of their engines, even the M8 has a lot of failures and beside to the price of the bike you still end up spending money to fix those problems, I think the best way to go is to buy a motorcycle a few years lather when you know a bout the problems you have to deal with and the solutions to those problems that most of the time some other companies end up with the solutions....greetings from Nogales México..
Yeah it's interesting with how much testing and engineering they put into the bikes and still have the issues they do. But some good solutions are out there on the after market, it's a shame you have to do that but it does allow you to get the bike to be what you want.
Funny , my Ducati multistrada has had no heat problems and I have not spent a dime on aftermarket equipment to make it cooler !!! I spent all the $$$ you guys spend on fixing stuff, I spend on gas !!! You guys trying to make your chrome air compressors work better is really funny!!!😁😁😁😁😁🏍🏍🏍🍺🍺🍺🍺
@@artmchugh5644 No problems on my 2021 XDiavel either, I just wish they would have added an oil temp/press
gauge reading to dash selections....
It’s a dam shame that Harley owners have to do this after spending $32K on a new touring bike. I’ve changed my 2012 FLHTK so it runs like it should have from the factory. I’m 71, and if I do have the chance for a next bike, it’s going to be a bike that I won’t have to spend thousands on top of purchase price to perform well out of the factory. Goldwing anybody?
@@Donfleebie1l haven’t spent a dime on my2016 road king heat issue. I bought a new Goldwing, sold it and kept the HD. great bike. 58,000 miles.no road trips during Covid, ready to roll now. And….oil change on the GW cost more than myRK. GO FOR IT.
2000 Fatboy 88B. Harley's accessory oil cooler fits between the front downtubes and is barely noticeable. I also tried to always drive on the shady side of the road. 😃
Thanks for sharing! That's probably another reason why they didn't add them at the factory so they could sell them as an accessory. Oil cooler is an absolute must on any Harley!
Nothing but overheat issues on my 2012 Electra. 2 HD shops said that it was normal (until my warranty expired) . Now ride a Big Dog with a 117 S&S. No problems
Yeah that's not normal despite what anyone says.
Normal for what they are selling. This doesn’t make it good tho.
Wise to go an evo style motor. Plus you get the benefit of lots of air about the engine.
I added a Jaggs oil.cooler and fan to my 2016RGS. It made a difference.
The Jagg oil coolers are awesome, they have the oversize multiple row units that really pull some heat out!
Just got a 2014 SGS, so it's good to hear your input regarding the twin cam. I'm in McAlester, so hope to run into you someday.
That's awesome to hear from someone in Oklahoma too! Beautiful riding country down there in the south east part of the state!
@@GixxerFoo, yes it is. And this past weekend was damn good weather.
Hey man been watching your videos for a while and I’ve learned a ton. With this topic on twin cam heating issues, I know some people like to utilize a tank lift, mostly for looks but I’ve also heard the argument that it helps cool the front cylinder. Any thoughts on this?
Definitely need a oil cooler on the fence between Jagg vs Ultra cool 3.0.. upgraded my 2001 flhtc twincam to the S&S 100 big bore sidewinder. Now i am running much hotter.
I would for sure go with a fan assisted after the upgrades, the Jagg is a great cooler but I like the way Ultracool encases their fans.
It sounds like I really lucked out.
I had the dealer install free flowing mufflers and the screaming eagle oil redirection system on my 2000 twin cam bike.
The mechanic told me he changed the jets to make it burn correctly because he also reworked the air filter housing by drilling extra holes so it could pull more air. It now has 85,000 miles and barely uses any oil between 5,000 mile changes. I switched to full synthetic soon after buying the bike. So it must now run hot or it would have enough wear to be using oil.
I don't know if dealers can legally tune the fuel injection to add more fuel because it might violate air pollution laws but I have seen videos of owners who tuned their injection system to run better.
If a person installed an oil cooler and the fan system that mounts where the horn sits, I doubt that engine would ever run too warm.
Dealers tune with Power Vision and the SE Tuner, some dealers may not do it but most will give you a good rich tune that makes the bike run damn good!
Stuff the damn EPA laws!!! What about engine overheating damage and rider suffering. If you are having a problem from Harley dealer retuning your twin cam find a sympathetic mechanic who will do the retune on the quiet!
Every video is good...but I really enjoy the twin cam stuff 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it! Twin Cams are fascinating engines to me, they get a lot of grief for some of the weak spots they really aren't bad engines.
I bought an 07 Ultra with the TC96 this fall. It has Rinehart full exhaust and an S&S air cleaner. I haven't had it tuned yet but, can anyone tell me why the previous owner would have left the O2 sensors unplugged? Nice video by the way. Info I needed. Thanks!
Their are a couple possible reasons, however most likely he was attempting to get the ECM to push it's richest AFR without having to buy a tuner. The other possibility is they were throwing an engine code and that was a cheap fix.
Yeah as Carl Bruhn mentioned rich afr or trying get around some issues. How doe the bike run with the sensors unplugged and do you have a engine light on? It may of been professionally tuned at one point and had some ECM work done.
@@GixxerFoo No engine light on and, seems to run fine.
I forgot about the oil filter I added on the bike. In Sturges a few years ago there was a vendor selling oil filters that you reused. Had two design aspect I like so I bot one. One, it had a magnet inside and would grab anything metallic flowing by. I like that idea. But more important was that it was all aluminum and had fins for cooling. They said I'd get a few hp out of it. Don't believe it, but I do think it helps cooling. Maybe all in my mind, but that's cool. Like the look, like the idea. Never bot another throw away oil cooler so it's all good. As always, great video. Thanks!
The reusable oil filters are high dollar up front but they do help with cooling and it's the last oil filter you ever have to buy. You might get a little horsepower out of it theoretically, cooler engines make more power but I maybe not enough to really though power wise.
Love that filter. Will stop stuff to 2 Microns where the smallest on anything else seems to be around 10. Add that to the right oil and a stage 1 mod and you will have a motor that runs around 200 degrees. It will save you a ton of money over the long haul. 😎
My stage 1: Free flowing air cleaner, exhaust and Thundermax ECM. Stage 2 will be using a S&S create motor when the stock motor goes and the parts will carry over.
Thundermax is an awesome ECU, those wide band sensors really make a difference.
As always great content Mr. Foo
Thank you Old Skool! I appreciate your support!
Running K&P oil filter, Jagg fan assisted oil cooler and Red Line oil in my 120rx
That 120RX is a beast, I imagine that helps out quite a bit with keeping the heat down. Well as best you can on a 120RX.
Yeah it’s a blast I have a couple short videos you can check out if you want.
@@jekyl120rx6 I've seen your videos. Your bike is a beast.
Good information. Thankyou!
Glad it was helpful!
Love your vids, It is my understanding the M8's do not run lean at all. Not sure why you think they run lean?
keep up the good work 😎
On my 2014 twin cooled Limited I added
Dynojet Power Vision tuner
Bassani 2 into 1 exhaust
High flow air cleaner
Vented breather externally
Removed left side heat deflector, lets air flow through back of engine better
Very nice! I bet that bike runs pretty good with a 2 into 1 on there and getting that heat off the engine!
Would installing a better oil pump reduce engine heat?
Absolutely, a high volume oil pump helps out quite a bit. You can even take it a step further and add a deeper pan as well.
I have had many mc's over 50 years of riding, all makes and models, best you can do is a multi-pass oil cooler with good syn oil, good tune, and keep it in the wind if it's aircooled, which all my present HD's are. there are friction modifiers (oil additives) available, molly, or tefflon I found work best. reduce the friction, reduce the wear and heat. or move to Alaska.
I really like your channel. Thanks!
I'm short at 5'6". Tell my right nut!
Oil cooler with fans is the next mod after tensioner(s) replacement.
I had a 2016 Dyna Street Bob TC103 with VandH radius pipe not Staged. When I first rode at 80 f air temperature I thought that engine was gonna burn or explode. Just after this ride I took it to my mechanic and told him to Stage One it (air filter plus ECU), and the bike was running then cooler to my not staged Evo 1200 from 2013.
Wait a F’n Minute! I know you didn’t fix that shelf! Bring it back!! Lol
Lol I finally got it replaced, it's been about a year now 😆
@@GixxerFoo I related to that shelf, I may bend but never break, no matter how much shit is put on me. Lol Just noticed it.
Fyi… I appreciate you fixing that shelve 🤣not sure when you did it but I just really noticed it lol
Lol I finally got that done, it's been fixed for a while now 😆
Recently put a factory oil cooler on my 2008 96 Fat Bob after noticing the heat last summer. Took about an hour to install it. Highly recommend for anyone with a 96 or 103.
Thanks brother that was good content quite a bit I didn't know about the twin cam I've learned from you and I appreciate it I did the build on my 88 to knowledge from what you put out there and I'm very happy with it but and this will probably be the last bike I ever owned so I'm never going to have to get into the bigger displacement Harley's of today I really appreciate it then from the info you put out is helping somebody somewhere cuz it sure does help me thanks brother hope that all makes sense I'm at work but just got done listening to the heat issue thing I remember when they came out with the 96 that couple people I knew that had them were just the rear cylinders were just above being hot it was ridiculous
That's awesome to hear you got your 88 built out! The 96's were stupid hot, Twin Cam engine was just not meant to run that lean but Harley kept adapting that design to "work". It's a tough motor and it did what it was asked but getting them cooled off and running where they should be is the best thing you can do with one.
Do you recommend one oil cooler over another? I have run Ultracool in the past and had good luck. Jagg is good too but for the cost UC is a better buy in my opinion.
They both work very well, I would say the Ultracool is a cleaner package especially with the fan assisted units.
Harleys way of saying screw you to its customers
Hear that. Their motto is pay us now AND pay us more later.
We pay it because tuned and set up right makes it the greatest ride in the world. 😎
I am getting a 98 kit with professional tuning for a TC88 06 SG. Yes, I switch tensioners to hydrologic tensioners too--thanks for the advice on that! I am running love jugs with it. Is it necessary to run a oil cooler too?
96ci 2011 Dyna. Jagg side-mounted oil cooler, a finned rebuildable oil filter, FP3 tuner👍
I really like those reusable oil filters, they are expensive but they pay for themselves in the long run!
Thanks for the info.
Any time!
Great video! Thanks !
Glad you enjoyed it, I appreciate the support!
That's one the biggest things I noticed going from a twincam to an evo is how much less heat there is.
I went from a 1996 80" Heritage to a FI 2001 88" Heritage and the difference in heat is ridiculous! I'm hoping to put an oil cooler on it this summer to make it more pleasant to ride.
It's crazy how hot the Twin Cam runs compared to the Evo engines, they had to make that Twin Cam run hot to meet emissions.
Man, another great video! Thanks GixxerFoo. I have an 01 88 RK 41k miles. Tore into camplate last night. I cut pushrods not realizing they're over $200 to replace with adjustable kit. On a budget here. New camplate or cams? I know how you feel about lifters. I don't have $1800 right now but I want to ride so what would you do. Bike runs great. I know I should just put new $50 tensioner in and be done but... thoughts? OK so I ended up ordering the Fueling cam chest kit 7320 which comes with the 525 grind cams. Any idea where to start with the carburetor?
On a budget the a new set of spring tensioners will work, but since you ordered the entire cam chest kit you'll be good to go. They should send you a chart to get a basic setup on the carb to get started, really depends on where you live what jetting you'll need.
Great video. Do all the newer softails have oil coolers?
Thank you, yeah all the new M8's have the oil cooler standard. They did a really good job on it putting it between the down tubes on the front of the Softail, it's really cleanly integrated.