For those watching this, Replacing the axle seal ( non re-usable ) with oem Toyota is highly recommended. Also the most important thing, the service manual calls for thread lock on the lower ball joint bolts, absolutely not anti seize. Everything else was pretty straight forward .
Great axel R&R demonstration. Made it look fairly easy and straightforward as I thought it would be. The right tools and having help (usually I don’t get that) and all the Tq specs was also super helpful. I need a bigger spec torque wrench I think. My 1/2” craftsman might not go over 150 ft/lbs (need to dbl check that before I need to do this service. But hopefully will not be anytime soon. Great job guys!
great video. i just did my ECGS clamshell bushing today, and I forgot to look at what the cv axle looked like in the diff beforehand, so I didn't know what it looked like when it was properly seated after putting it back. Video gave a great view, and made me feel better that i'd gotten it back in. thanks Also showed me i grabbed the wrong torque spec for the LCA > spindle. I had glanced the LCA > frame and only put 100 lbft on it. 118 going on in the morning.
Glad it helped! Some other subscribers mention to check the cv axle seal while it’s off, replacement is about $5 also someone said something about spraying the boot with some kind of silicone to help beep the boot plush longer. Might be worth looking into in the future since we’re DIY guys.
OEM CV axles shouldn't be used with a lift kit. OEM are usually limited to 23-25 degrees of articulation. an extended travel Axle setup will give a much greater range of movement (~45+ degrees) with less binding and less boot wear. the video is good as a step by step.
Thank you for this video. This is a perfect guide for doing the CV swap while out in the bush. I’m able to build my CV replacement kit with your information. One question, can you please reply with details about the gear oil loss? I’m my kit, I’d like to include a bottle of the correct gear oil to use to refill any loss. Is it difficult to get to the transfer case fill port? How do I know when enough is added? Thanks again!
I lost a decent amount of oil when doing my ECGS bushing and I used a small transfer pump to pump oil into fill hole on diff. It is full when it starts to spill out fill hole.
Thank you for the feedback, I wish I mentioned the position of the retainer ring or how to hammer the axle in from the wheel well if doing an off-road repair. Meh, one of my videos one day I’ll break my axle I’m sure and I’ll film it then lol.
@@crvzer ring opening face down helps a little and hammer in the axle from the hub area with a rubber mallet. A sledge can be used too but more risk of damaging the threads if u miss. I’m looking at RCV if I go up to 37s but I’m very happy with the 35s (video soon)
As you mentioned the reason why your boot tore is because of the lift. What a lot of us do is get an aftermarket boot that is a little bigger then you don't tear your boots anymore.
I’ve used the old one in a pinch several times no issues. Make sure the snap doesn’t look warped or flattened. Also have a spare for next time or if the axle ever pops out (I highly highly doubt it).
Thank you for this video. I am not a mechanic, but I try to cary tools and a few parts. I purchased a spare drive shaft and the tools needed to change one on the trail if I have to. However, I will never remember all of this. How Can I download the video in-case I do not have connection?
There were some extra tips left by others in the comments, ring open side up helps sometimes, a new seal is helpful sometimes as well. Glad I could help. Maybe a screen recording?
What’s the risk of running a drop bracket? Diff clearance is a bit better without for sure, but it’s solid if not more solid of a cross member/cam tab than factory. I’ve never had a problem and go on some pretty decent terrain. Look up fire break 5 in the TSF. The difference that people don’t take into consideration is that dropping the diff keeps the axles perfectly level at ride height. zero cv issues. If you want a 4-6” lift drop bracket is a reliable option. Smaller lifts don’t need it whatsoever.
We do a lot of snow wheeling. We need the extreme angle boots, should solve the issue. I had a drop kit but when I head to the local forest I was hitting my skid more than usual, usually not a problem except I’m still using my tin can oem skid lol. It can’t take much abuse.
Hard to say, usually if u hear a tapping sound when turning and can sometimes feel it in your steering wheel, that’s usually the CV not performing properly. Take a visual inspection, usually loss in performance is from a torn boot. If it’s only when u engage 4x4 then not likely.
OEM axles go on easier no matter the position of clip. Aftermarket are the Wild West. They have much larger clips than OEM. Unless you can’t afford it I would go OEM.
@@AdventureSquadOverland I wanted to ask you if you know the size of the needle bearing for 3rd gen Tacoma? I’ve been trying to find it online but it gives me different sizes. Thank you
Great question. This makes me thing there might be different sizes based on year for 3rd gen’s. Might be best to call Toyota parts with your VIN and they can tell u from the horse’s mouth.curious. Good luck man sounds like you’re doing cool things
Been beating and banging on this axle for 4 hours and will not budge. I’ve threw everything but the kitchen sink at it! I’ve beat on this thing so much I can’t even rebuild it. Just gonna have it towed to someone who knows what they are doing
@@jeffroberts2279 careful, large change u may have to replace the axle seal that way. U should always replace it anyways but, check for small leaks this week.
Приветствую, можно заставку с логотипом сделать и трейлер на главную. Пока коммерческие каналы на паузе, а аудитории потребность смотреть осталась и активно шарят, оптимизацию и дело пойдёт . Нужно вам для каннала????. о....мье
Stop making disparaging references to dealerships. Dealerships are our lifeline when something should go wrong and then their value should never be diminished. Perhaps if you ever worked at a dealership you’d understand the value they bring and how utterly stupid making those comments is. Now for a tip, use silicone spray on your CV boots every oil change, and that’ll keep them supple and prevent them from drying and cracking, I learned that working at a dealership it’s value added and helps customers.
What a joke. Spoken like a con man service writer… You cant tell me every dealer doesn’t take advantage of whoever they can. The dumber the customer or urgency of the repair, the higher the cost dealers are literally the worst
@@TheBowJoe702 That is the common perception but not always the case. We as consumers need to be aware and ask questions. I am in the business (non automotive). i’m sure it’s hard for you to understand but unscrupulous dealers get a reputation and they’ve earned it. Good dealers just simply do good work and their reputation is earned as well. One just hast to know where to go. The take away here is without a dealer you have no cars, and when there is a recall or something technical that needs to be sorted out, the dealer is often time the best place to go. I see it daily people who go to the forums and RUclips seeking solutions to problems with their motorcycle only to spend hundreds of dollars and not get the real solution. Then when they’re completely stumped they come to us and we fix it for a fraction of the money they’ve already spent. Often times it turns them around. It doesn’t happen all the time, but it happens more than you think.
@@bluezhawg2104 Oh no I understand their reasoning. They have to be rip off con artist scumbags because a dealer has so much overhead and they have to keep the lights on.. What I despise is that they literally analyze and profile customers to determine what kind of price they get on vehicle sale, trade ins, financing and service. Think of a salesman standing around at the front of the dealer, except instead of a car he’s trying to get as high a price for, its parts, and man hours combined. Dealers/service writers are scumbags through and through. Commission based parts guys who don’t even wrench on your vehicle, what a joke. Tell me a lie I’m gonna believe
For those watching this, Replacing the axle seal ( non re-usable ) with oem Toyota is highly recommended. Also the most important thing, the service manual calls for thread lock on the lower ball joint bolts, absolutely not anti seize. Everything else was pretty straight forward .
Noted. Thanks for sharing 💪🏼.
Yup, thread lock, generally speaking, all non-retained nuts/bolts with steering/axle Stuff.
Great axel R&R demonstration. Made it look fairly easy and straightforward as I thought it would be. The right tools and having help (usually I don’t get that) and all the Tq specs was also super helpful. I need a bigger spec torque wrench I think. My 1/2” craftsman might not go over 150 ft/lbs (need to dbl check that before I need to do this service. But hopefully will not be anytime soon. Great job guys!
Thanks man! Someone did recommend lock tight on lower control arms not what I used as anti-seize. This makes sense to me.
great video. i just did my ECGS clamshell bushing today, and I forgot to look at what the cv axle looked like in the diff beforehand, so I didn't know what it looked like when it was properly seated after putting it back. Video gave a great view, and made me feel better that i'd gotten it back in. thanks
Also showed me i grabbed the wrong torque spec for the LCA > spindle. I had glanced the LCA > frame and only put 100 lbft on it. 118 going on in the morning.
Glad it helped! Some other subscribers mention to check the cv axle seal while it’s off, replacement is about $5 also someone said something about spraying the boot with some kind of silicone to help beep the boot plush longer. Might be worth looking into in the future since we’re DIY guys.
Great video it’s funny how many similarities the 3rd GEN has with the 2nd GEN the CV axle seem like they’re exactly the same this was a big help
Thanks for watching 💪🏼
OEM CV axles shouldn't be used with a lift kit. OEM are usually limited to 23-25 degrees of articulation. an extended travel Axle setup will give a much greater range of movement (~45+ degrees) with less binding and less boot wear. the video is good as a step by step.
Outstanding video.. Thanks for taking the time to post this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this video. This is a perfect guide for doing the CV swap while out in the bush. I’m able to build my CV replacement kit with your information.
One question, can you please reply with details about the gear oil loss? I’m my kit, I’d like to include a bottle of the correct gear oil to use to refill any loss. Is it difficult to get to the transfer case fill port? How do I know when enough is added?
Thanks again!
Not positive myself but usually gear oil loss is negligible. U can always measure how much came out and refill this amount as well.
I lost a decent amount of oil when doing my ECGS bushing and I used a small transfer pump to pump oil into fill hole on diff. It is full when it starts to spill out fill hole.
Excellent video. Straightforward and to the point.
Thank you for the feedback, I wish I mentioned the position of the retainer ring or how to hammer the axle in from the wheel well if doing an off-road repair. Meh, one of my videos one day I’ll break my axle I’m sure and I’ll film it then lol.
@@AdventureSquadOverland What’s the trick to it?
@@crvzer ring opening face down helps a little and hammer in the axle from the hub area with a rubber mallet. A sledge can be used too but more risk of damaging the threads if u miss. I’m looking at RCV if I go up to 37s but I’m very happy with the 35s (video soon)
@@AdventureSquadOverland Thanks bro. I’m doing mine next week, so that information will definitely help. 👊🏼
@@crvzer ah man I should record the rebooting process. Are u rebuilding or bought a new axle?
As you mentioned the reason why your boot tore is because of the lift. What a lot of us do is get an aftermarket boot that is a little bigger then you don't tear your boots anymore.
Adjusted the lift worked but another option is a boot made for extreme angles. Thanks man.
This is amazing made it where I’m gonna diy it..thank you guise
Yeap, how’d it go?
Hey happen to know if I need to change out the clip if I’m just changing out the boots? Will the old snap clip work ?
I’ve used the old one in a pinch several times no issues. Make sure the snap doesn’t look warped or flattened. Also have a spare for next time or if the axle ever pops out (I highly highly doubt it).
Thank you for this video. I am not a mechanic, but I try to cary tools and a few parts. I purchased a spare drive shaft and the tools needed to change one on the trail if I have to. However, I will never remember all of this. How Can I download the video in-case I do not have connection?
There were some extra tips left by others in the comments, ring open side up helps sometimes, a new seal is helpful sometimes as well. Glad I could help. Maybe a screen recording?
Use something like yt-dlp
What’s the risk of running a drop bracket? Diff clearance is a bit better without for sure, but it’s solid if not more solid of a cross member/cam tab than factory. I’ve never had a problem and go on some pretty decent terrain. Look up fire break 5 in the TSF. The difference that people don’t take into consideration is that dropping the diff keeps the axles perfectly level at ride height. zero cv issues. If you want a 4-6” lift drop bracket is a reliable option. Smaller lifts don’t need it whatsoever.
We do a lot of snow wheeling. We need the extreme angle boots, should solve the issue. I had a drop kit but when I head to the local forest I was hitting my skid more than usual, usually not a problem except I’m still using my tin can oem skid lol. It can’t take much abuse.
Were you guys using a 3/4” or 1/2” Milwaukee Impact Wrench?
Also, was it a “High Torque” or “Mid Torque” Impact?
I believe it was 1/2 medium… carefully 😅
Got a link for the refurbished cv? Thanks
We used a rebuild kit ourselves. Very messy but very easy. I can put together a video in a few months if I have some time. Keep your OEM.
My tacoma starts making a 15 second thumping sound after engaging 4x4. Do you think that could be a bad cv?
Hard to say, usually if u hear a tapping sound when turning and can sometimes feel it in your steering wheel, that’s usually the CV not performing properly. Take a visual inspection, usually loss in performance is from a torn boot. If it’s only when u engage 4x4 then not likely.
@@AdventureSquadOverland thanks
Awesome video!
Thanks man.
What about replacing the fluid that came out from the CV Axle…?
Great question. See other comment asking same question. U got this 💪🏻
I heard from someone that putting the c clip on end of shaft ( open end at 12 oclock ) is recommended ? any truth to that
Never heard of that but makes sense because gravity can help seat the clamp better. Thank u!🙏
I saw that video too. Well worth to listen to the explanation about it.
OEM axles go on easier no matter the position of clip. Aftermarket are the Wild West. They have much larger clips than OEM. Unless you can’t afford it I would go OEM.
Thanks for clarifying 💪🏼
Big W ! Good job !!
Thanks for watching
@@AdventureSquadOverland I wanted to ask you if you know the size of the needle bearing for 3rd gen Tacoma?
I’ve been trying to find it online but it gives me different sizes.
Thank you
Great question. This makes me thing there might be different sizes based on year for 3rd gen’s. Might be best to call Toyota parts with your VIN and they can tell u from the horse’s mouth.curious. Good luck man sounds like you’re doing cool things
great video
Thanks for the visit
Thank you so much
You're most welcome, I guess I should make more DIY videos.
Yeah, supposed to loctite lower bolts, not antiseize. Like that from factory, you can see it on bolts.
Thanks man. Good call 💪🏼
5:56 Differential gear oil LT from Toyota GL-5 75W-85
I paid $86 for 1 liter .. I hope it help you ..👍🏻
Sure did. Thank u@emejia8919
Sway bar still on??
Yeap
That definitely threw me off.
Supposedly offroad often and still have the swaybar that limits articulation.
What about the back cv ?
😂
Been beating and banging on this axle for 4 hours and will not budge. I’ve threw everything but the kitchen sink at it! I’ve beat on this thing so much I can’t even rebuild it. Just gonna have it towed to someone who knows what they are doing
Try a much heavier mallet, banging w a smaller mallet gets no where, smaller hits w a larger mallet works far better. Maybe 5 mins.
@@AdventureSquadOverlandI got it off with a cv axle fork.
@@AdventureSquadOverlandpop out fork
@@jeffroberts2279 careful, large change u may have to replace the axle seal that way. U should always replace it anyways but, check for small leaks this week.
@@AdventureSquadOverlandthe truck is a 2023
Where is the boot for that LBJ?
Not sure. I’d call SPC 📞
@@AdventureSquadOverland 🤔
should have used red thread locker, not anti-seize
I plan on changing these a lot at rubicon. Thanks for the support.
Good viedo but one mistake you guys didn't replace the axel seal guarantee its gonna leak.
Lol no it’s not
Good point, total oversight. Thanks for mentioning this to the community. Luckily so far no leak, not sure why.
What's this Tacoma like 10 minutes old? Where's the rust?
Keepin it purdy on the west coast
Definitely don’t re use cotter pins 😅
Ty
Приветствую, можно заставку с логотипом сделать и трейлер на главную. Пока коммерческие каналы на паузе, а аудитории потребность смотреть осталась и активно шарят, оптимизацию и дело пойдёт .
Нужно вам для каннала????.
о....мье
Я бы хотел, чтобы они не включали рекламу, у меня не было возможности отключить это
Stop making disparaging references to dealerships. Dealerships are our lifeline when something should go wrong and then their value should never be diminished. Perhaps if you ever worked at a dealership you’d understand the value they bring and how utterly stupid making those comments is. Now for a tip, use silicone spray on your CV boots every oil change, and that’ll keep them supple and prevent them from drying and cracking, I learned that working at a dealership it’s value added and helps customers.
😂😂😂
What a joke. Spoken like a con man service writer… You cant tell me every dealer doesn’t take advantage of whoever they can. The dumber the customer or urgency of the repair, the higher the cost dealers are literally the worst
@@TheBowJoe702 That is the common perception but not always the case. We as consumers need to be aware and ask questions. I am in the business (non automotive). i’m sure it’s hard for you to understand but unscrupulous dealers get a reputation and they’ve earned it. Good dealers just simply do good work and their reputation is earned as well. One just hast to know where to go. The take away here is without a dealer you have no cars, and when there is a recall or something technical that needs to be sorted out, the dealer is often time the best place to go. I see it daily people who go to the forums and RUclips seeking solutions to problems with their motorcycle only to spend hundreds of dollars and not get the real solution. Then when they’re completely stumped they come to us and we fix it for a fraction of the money they’ve already spent. Often times it turns them around. It doesn’t happen all the time, but it happens more than you think.
@@bluezhawg2104 Oh no I understand their reasoning. They have to be rip off con artist scumbags because a dealer has so much overhead and they have to keep the lights on.. What I despise is that they literally analyze and profile customers to determine what kind of price they get on vehicle sale, trade ins, financing and service. Think of a salesman standing around at the front of the dealer, except instead of a car he’s trying to get as high a price for, its parts, and man hours combined. Dealers/service writers are scumbags through and through. Commission based parts guys who don’t even wrench on your vehicle, what a joke. Tell me a lie I’m gonna believe
Yes, dealerships are definitely a saviour of all mankind. Get a grip.