You might not even need a 3D printing filament dry box | Sovol SH01
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
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The Sovol SH01 is a 3D printing filament dry box that keeps your filament printing its best. The big question is, do you even need a dry box? And if you do, how does the Sovol stack up against similar products from Sunlu and Esun?
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If you need a quick easy way to dry your filament.....
Most 3d printers come with a heatable printing surface.
Set your print bed temp to 50 degrees. Place your filament spool on the heated bed.
Put the cardboard box your filament came in over top of your spool.
Wait 4-5 hours.
Ta dah!!!!!
9:23 that is the biggest 1kg roll of filament I've ever seen in my life, I have 2kg rolls that are that big.
For $50 you can eliminate one group of problems that you don't have to trouble shoot - there are plenty of others. When I came back from a 2 month vacation I was unable to complete a single PLA print. I was having bubbling on the first layer , poor adhesion , the nozzle hitting the bubbles and lifting the print. I bought the exact same unit you showed and my problems disappeared. My printer is in the basement where there often is humidity so for me it works.
Dont buy these dryers...I've tested 6 of these types of dryboxes and none of them contain enough desiccant to get the moisture below 3% the heating element isnt enough to actually remove moisture. I recommend tupperware and color changing desiccant, and print your own rollers ($10). Use a dehydrator or a convection oven (convection ovens keep the temp even across the space) to dry. You should dry every roll of TPU straight from the factory, right out of the vac bag and into the oven. TPU picks up 3-5 grams of moisture in 24 hours, which degrades quality. Your quality will improve, reduce stringing. Not a big deal with PLA, PETG, or ABS, but TPU and Nylon need to be dried immediately and again if exposed to air for more than a few hours...but it's not not like I run a print farm..oh yeah, actually, I do ;) Love you Joshua, appreciate everything you do! The eSun box scale isnt accurate enough to measure moisture gains/losses...it's just to estimate how much filament is left on the reel.
Keeping filament dry is a good idea. If it's one that's highly hydrophilic, then it may be hard to do and a heated dryer is a must. I made one with a dehydrator, a bunch of extra shelves, so side cutters, and glue. Seems to work well on hips and nylon. Never had much issues with pla, petg, and tpu.
The cheap and effective way I have found is to store your filament in a bucket with dehumidifier beads. Just go down to your local sports goods store and get a bucket with a lid and a safe dehumidifier from the guns section and get out at around $15. A 5 gallon bucket will also hold up to 5 spools. I recommend dehumidifying in the oven first but a good dehumidifier will do that in a day or so by itself.
Food dehydrator works well, and it's round, with a circle in the middle...just like a filament spool.
Definitely, just make sure it has temperature control.
One shortcoming of these filament boxes is that it doesnt have the high air flow rate that food dehydrators have, which can result in condensation
It surely is the best way to dry.
Agreed!! I've been using the cylindrical nesco for idk a decade now. It went to work drying filaments for me many years ago. I keep all of my filament in a big plastic container w a seal built in the lid, with a gallon of (indicating) silica desiccant. It's been 3 years now and none of the beads have indicated they need to be recharged yet!!! I only use my dehydrator for rolls that I forgot to put back into the box, OR electronics/shoes or whatever that accidentally get wet haha. Oh, and for beef jerky and fruit chips!!!!!! Try that last one with this silly filament heater!
I had to make a lid adapter out of cardboard though, so I can use the dehydrator top on a much larger container then the trays it comes with.
I tried that method, but my kids ate the filament
I live in FL. and the humidity here is always high, been printing for almost 3 yrs now and i keep my filaments in its original packaging with plenty of Dessicant in them and never had any issues with moisture yet. I do replace the Dessicant every 2 months just incase.
For me PLA, PETG and TPU: stick in the oven for 30-60 minutes at 50-70°C, works perfectly
Out of all the 3D printing videos I have seen, as an FPV pilot, yours are my favorite!
it did that because you are setting it to do 70deg so it heats up really hot to get it to that temp quick hence the warping
you need to start at 40deg and take it up 5 or 10 deg every half hour till you get to 70 to stop that in little ovens doing that
This is good, made ikea box which can contain 4 spools, added desiccant, added reptile heat mat, dry box ready, dirt cheap 😄
When you try to print TPU and hear something like bubbles exploding when the filament comes out of the nozzle, then it means it has absorbed moisture and for sure the print quality won't be good.
I usually just use the hotbed on the 3d printer to dry the filament. That also works well and has accurate temperature control. Just put something over the spool, to contain the heat. I only had to do this a few times with tpu. It wasn't necessary for PLA and PETG for me so far.
I found I had to dry out a PLA reel today. Yesterday I printed some tiny 10mm fans with PLA and they came out perfect, but I left the reel out overnight where the temperature dropped and the humidity rose from the rain, carrying on printing some today (same gcode file) the first batch had lots of tiny strings. I popped the reel in the food dehydrator at 45C for 3 hours and printed more, with the reel still in the dryer, the prints came out perfect again.
Nice idea
What temp do you keep the bed when drying tpu? And for how long do you keep it there?
I usually use 55°C for tpu and pla,. That worked well for my tpu so far, without changing the raw material.
I would imagine that the surface moisture evaporates as the filament enters the hot end
DIY dry bins work great too, and can hold more spools for quite a bit cheaper than these active dryers. The DIY approach takes longer though because it's not actively drying with heat, but once it's dry it stays dry. Good for long term storage.
EDIT: I should watch the entire video before commenting next time 😊
Diy dry boxes using silica have been shown to not work. Heat allows molecular motion to drive water out. It isn't the same process as ambient dry air
Weirdly I was literally looking at making my own filament box when I hoped on RUclips and saw this. I figured it was an old video and Google had just been tracking my web searches.
Turns out it was Bardwell anticipating my web searches.
@JB did you try the tpu after drying it? In the box? I think a lot of times we assume the filament straight out the box ia dry when it really isn't
You can also put packs of decadents in the center of the spool.
My esun box just goes up to 35 degrees altough its set to 80 😅 now i got a food dehydrator and put the spool in the esun vakuum system, works perfect for me 😊
Thanks man just bought this online felt a bit foolish for buying it but your perspective has put my mind to rest. Thanks for sharing.
I use a 3D printer in a humid climate - it rains a lot and the printer has been in my bathroom for more than a year - the humidity is often above 70%. The plastic box is large enough to hold the filament and paper bag with silica gel for cats works well. The humidity inside the box is controlled by a weather sensor. When the humidity inside rises above 50% (this usually happens every 2-3 months), I replace the silica gel with a new one or dry it in the oven at 150 degrees for 1.5 hours.
You can get silica packs with color changing beads that will let you know when they're spent.
Sitting the reel on your heater bed for 30-60 minutes before printing is the latest 3D printing community development and seems to work one of the best lol.
My no insulation house in Oklahoma has major humidity problems. PLA will get brittle over time. PETG and TPU will start stringing. I have to store all my filaments in bins with gaskets, and I have a dryer.
Greengate PETG (recycled) is amazing, but needs to be dried out of the box.
Almost 3 years of printing on 4 printers, and it does make a difference for me.
BUT.. If I had a "normal" house, it probably wouldn't be an issue.
I bought this item on sale but had a problem with temperature rise. Although it was 48 ° C on the display of the equipment, it only rose to 33.4 ° C inside, and as a result, the filament did not dry. It may be a problem with the position of the temperature sensor on the main unit.
By the way, the thermometer belongs to Xiaomi, so I think you can trust it.
I need a box that holds two filaments. In the future, I would like to incorporate a 12V heating element to raise the internal temperature.
Like you Joshua, I don't print with nylon which is really hygroscopic. Having said that I just keep my filament in a large plastic storage container with a seal. Ziplock makes them and there are other brands as well. I purchased a bunch of individually packaged desiccant from Amazon and placed that in the bottom. It is the type that turns red when it has absorbed moisture and blue when it is dry. When the packs turn red I put them in my oven for an hour or so to recharge them. My filament seems to be perfect stored like this. I don't know how well this would dry filament that had already absorbed moisture but if you start with dry stuff, this seems to keep it dry.
the moist is super harmful with the nylon. I must to coock it in the oven for 8 hours at 70c every time i need to print with it.
I wish I had filament issues. I can leave a roll on the printer for months on end and no problems. I guess I’m just lucky.
A fillament dryer can defenitly be worth it in the right occasions. When printing Nylon it's almost something you need to have.
I do have some TPU that i can print about 2 or 3parts with when it comes out of the oven. I've got the Esun fillament dryer and when i put my TPU in there i can empty that spool completly without having any moisture problems. When printing small details with TPU you really don't wany any moisture at all.
I have the similar filament dryer, and I ended up buying/modding a food dehydrator anyway because of of how unevenly these dry unless the spool is rotating. Since you want to dry your filament BEFORE you print, even if you can print and rotate the spool within the box, it's not going to do that while sitting idle before a print. In order for this type of dryer to be effective you'd probably want to mod it with a fan, and at that point just spend $50~ on a decent food dehydrator, cut out some of the grates, and get better drying performance. I'll say that the compact size is appealing, but in general price:performance isn't worth it.
I use a food dehydrator modified a bit but only 50.00 . Real good for PETG or TPU! Great to point out ..
In the heat gun look at those capillaries and vaine ✌️✌️✌️🤣🤣🤣
JB on a livestream: It’s just a box with the heater, what do you want to hear?
JB in regular videos: Here’s a box with the heater!😂
Great video as always!😎
I have the esun drying and it works very well. For most drying I use the Ebox but I dry large batches of filament in a food warming drawer.
TPU absorbs moisture really fast. Even a day exposed it's starting to get worse. Depends on humidity level. When moist, you get terrible "foamy" prints from steam at the hot end during printing. I dry all my TPU with a dedicated filament roll dryer and store with double bagged rolls with lots of silca gel and small humidity monitor in each bagged roll. PLA barely absorbs moisture, even long term
This
I have an air fryer. It works awesome on the dehydrate setting at 170⁰
NylonX, The main filament I use, prints like ass if its not dried. 180f 4-5 hours in the oven.. then use a drybox while printing. Got one from amazon :P
If you have a heat pump eng dehumidifier or humidity regulation system - yeah no humidity
I'm staying in a small apartment with baseboard radiators, and it's dry here in michigan. Flex PLA went from great to junk in days
Sh01 fixed it.
Moreover, despite the filament appearing to produce a decent print, even the small amount caused microperforations in the flex prints. Not a problem for making toys for adult children, but I was trying to make an air tight gasket for a machine pushing slightly pressurized water. The gasket was "sweating" water from the perforations.
Pla gets brittle when it gets wet... not old, WET. You shouldn't have that issue with dry PLA.
Dessicant does NOT drive humidity out of filament.
PETG is also affected by humidity badly.
Lower Temps will still work to dry nylon - just slower.
Please just do a modicum of background research. If you're doing printing with anything but pla in the desert, you will need to dry filament eventually. Even if you live a dry place, you can still get poorly sealed damp filament out of the box occasionally.
And.......... it’s a box with a heater in it! You did it JB 😜☺️
I’ve found that humidity affects filaments from some brands but not others. Living in Colorado, I don’t need it for most of the filaments I have but others will bubble a bit if they’ve sat in the air a bit too long in the spring when we get a lot of rain.
Again, perfect timing! I have an Ender 3 v2 with the carborundum glass bed and a set of multi-color filaments arriving tomorrow. It is good to know how to properly dry the filament. Thanks, JB!
For me the timing is always one or two days late. At the beginning of my fpv "journey" I got a betafpv hx100 and I had a problem with the vtx's wiring harness and I had to change it. After I struggled for 5 days trying to figure out how to get the harness pins to get out, I finally changed it. Next thing you know 3 days later Bardwell releases a video called "how to change a wiring harness". I guess I am unlucky, but hey, it's more rewarding and fun if you figure it out yourself right?
So I do not own a dryer box. I have never printed W/ nylon, but have a few spools of old ABS that the local university was going to throw out I adopted. they were bad shape. so i threw them in the oven but i did some research and one content maker said to leave the oven door cracked open a bit cuz ovens actually can create humidity. and it worked great! however im preparing to make a vary large dryer box involving an arduino! ill let you know how that works out....
(some additional info) eSun don't heat up to 80C, only the heating element is at that temp. The air is only 45-50C. And PETG is more sensitive to moisture, ABS not. Desiccant can be placed inside a spool.
From 6 years of printing pla, ppla, petg, abs and PC I have never dehydrated or even bagged my filament. No issues printing either. Usualy it's the quality of filament.
I bought this for nylon, I didn't realize that it wouldn't get hot enough to dry it out. I guess I'll go back to using the food dehydrator. Oh well!
Got a cheap IDEX so it was the cheapest option to dry 2 spools. Could have dried them in the oven or in a cardboard box on top of the print bed but those are a lot of bother, more electricity and an accident waiting to happen not worth arguing over less than 50 bucks, shame it only goes to 50C and only runs for 12 hours max though
I watched this because of your FPV videos.
8 quart InstantPot with an airfry lid in dehydration mode works like a charm.
My PLA prints very good after drying.
PLA breaks because it gets moist. There is a very long and detailed write up online, which I have bookmarked somewhere. I just put the Sovol dryer into service and it needs some mods. Got a nice roll of filament that is slightly miswound. It is not drawing well and would hate to think it is adding stress to the extrude feeder motor. I think your idea is good to do a mod on that spot where the filament comes out. The angle needs to be changed,and a teflon tube put on there somehow. the dryer needs to be at a lower level than the printer to be able to line up with the extrude feeder. Using a Creality Ender 3 v2. I'm gonna mod it. There was a post on a review and it would be a good idea to open the dryer and check the wiring. One user reported some slap happy soldering and wire that was near the heating element and melting. So that's not good ! Otherwise I'm happy with it. Just having the moisture meter and place to put the filament is nice. Oh, another thing I noticed is that pla absorbs through the cut end. Had been using a bag on the filament with dessicant, and the part that was outside the bag had gotten moist. Thank for the vid. Bird ate part of the directions and I put it somewhere and can't find it now.
Great Video i never dies my Filament and Gas good Resultat sorry for german Autokorrektur
I think I understand you, you must use a filament that's less hydroscopic or live in a less humid area. Anyway cheers!
Air fryer at 160 for a few hours works for me and as a bonus your prints come out smelling like tater tots.😂
I've only ever had to dry my carbon/nylon filament.
Have to come to FPV channel to hear "Printed out of TPU, which is the most common filament I use".
Interesting video, at 9:00 minutes you talk about the exitof the filament, I have watched a video on the review of the comgrow unit (looks exactly the same) from "doublebits workshop" and he took the white plastic exit tube off and fitted a Bowden tube end and a piece of Capricorn tubing to protect the filament from dust up to the printer....😃
dry filament is a must, but.... As long as your filament is stored in a house / place that's air conditioned you should be ok. but if your like me and live in Florida and have your printer on the screened in porch like a IDIOT, you need a dryer LOL
I'm in Bama in a farm house. I have to dry often. The humidity works in from the ground since the house is up on block.
wooooahhhhhh hang on JB 3d printing toooo? not just an FPV wizard eh?
I don’t have an opinion on the Sovol or Esun dry boxes but I know they would be useful for my nylon and TPU. I like these dry boxes better than putting plastic in my oven. I print parts for R/C cars instead of drones and need special filaments for certain applications.
Use a food dehdrator to dry and one of these boxes to maintain the 'dryness'. These boxes just dont create sufficient airflow/heat to create a uniform temperature throughout the box.
I collect all the dehydration packets used in packaging, combined with some cat litter in sealed plastic containers and keep my nylon and other hydrophilic filament in those. Cheap and it works...
I like that this thing can be used as a spool holder when printing though
Hi Josh Great video and review of the Sovol SH01 dry box. I know one thing, it will not be for me. As much as I want one , I just would never be able to get it working. I still don't know how to use everything in my computer. And after the discussion on the livestream. I'm glad I chose not to buy one. I would think if you lived where there is a lot of humidity, You might want one. Thanks again for the information about this product.
You need to open your oven door a bit. I got away with 170F with the door cracked (1inch or so). I folded 2 rags and sandwiched the spool, then layer it on a pan. Just gotta insulate it from the radiative heat of the coils and let the heat/moisture out. You can make cheap DiY JERKY 🍖 like this 😁
I just dry my filament in the airing cupboard - I know not everybody has a cupboard like this due to the different types of heating systems, but if you have one use it!
Regarding the oven issue, I'm guessing your little toaster oven didn't have a fan? I bet that was the issue.
Crap... I bought one. Hey... I hear that the creality Ender 3 pro is open source. I wonder if that means it can print most of its parts to rebuild one by oneself? Have you heard of anyone doing this? I just bought an SVo3 Sovol as well for the bigger build volume. I need multiple printers because some projects take up lots of bed time. I wonder if you can print more than one piece on one be? I have never looked into that. So much to learn. I got the sovol svo3 with a filament dryer and An Ender 3 pro for printing statuary and characters.
I Injection mold with medical grade ABS and polycarbonate that are pre dried and only the polycarbonate is the one that gives me issues with splay when not dried properly the ABS seems like it would be just fine if not dried though
Dehydrator and cereal dry box are key for tpu. Look on thingniverse for cereal dry box. You’re welcome
The esun doesnt heat up to 80c, that is how hot the heating element gets.
If you measure it, it basically gets as hot as this. Another guy did a test on it and another heater and he soldered some sensors to the machines.
Thanks for the review. The fan on mine has died. Do you know what a good replacement would be? I cannot find any info on the OEM fan CFM or RPM rating. Any help appreciated!
Silica gel packets (dessicant). Simple and cheap.
Free if your filament comes with it
Silica gel alone won't extract enough moisture from filaments, they need to be actively dried, silica gel beads are used in filament storage boxes because they soak up any moisture in the air before the filament can.
@@licensetodrive9930 is correct. Desiccant is used to maintain already dry filament. Once wet, you need to dry.
@@d3c0deFPV fair point but if you always or mostly keep it with the filament once you open it you should be good. Personally I’ve never even had to use it but it’s always a good backup if you have nothing. I’ve never had wet filament problems so far and I’ve been printing for several years.
@@jtg_rc1583 It depends on the filament type and the conditions you print in. If you're printing PLA, PETG, and TPU and usually pack up your filament with desiccant after each use you'll be fine. If you print with Nylon and leave your spool out for several days, even indoors, you'll find yourself with very quickly degrading prints. Even TPU or PETG can start to lose its luster after sitting out on the roll after prints for extended periods of time. I would guess that the cumulative time needs to be in the order of many days or weeks for anything but the most hygroscopic filaments though. Drying can bring that luster back.
I store my filament in a plastic bag with the desiccants that shipped with them, otherwise whatever is on the printer sees room air, which run ~35% RH year round. I’m happy with my prints so for Ninjatek cheetah tpu, armadillo tpu, sunlu petg, & Amazon petg for me, I don’t bother with drying my filament
I bought an eSun dryer that fits one roll because my tpu was affected badly in a short time, but I live in Australia so humidity might be different. My prints went from perfect to terrible and went back to perfect after drying. My PLA doesn’t seem to be affected by leaving it out.
Choose any metal/heat safe box in required size. Put a hair dryer inside it. You got a drybox.
ABS and PLA aren't particularly hygroscopic though PLA is more than ABS. PETG, nylon and TPU are the ones you want to look out for and out of those nylon is the only one you really need a box for. Tupperware bins with gaskets in the lids and a bunch of dessicant packs are all you need.
So have the heater always and forever running... no thanks. Rather buy a sterlite sealed tote and just make a makeshift shelf out of PVC pipe, add desiccant that can be oven renewed that's in a pillow sheet or oven bag.
Most of those heated dry box will only run for 12-18 hours at a time and then shut off...when you really do need it to run day and night....i wont use em either, my convection oven is far more effective to remove water and tupperware to keep the filament from getting more moisture
50 degree is a horrible downside. It looked nice in the beginning but that's a clear showstopper.
Fantastic review, Joshua! 😃
I... Still didn't have a 3d printer... 🙄
BUT I'm thinking about making a big cabinet for filaments from a huge plastic box and use desiccants(?)... But, well... We'll see.
I hope I can get my first 3d printer until the end of the year.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
lick for the esun ebox lite dryer box for 3d printer filament? I dont find it with 80 dergress as you show
Just store your filament in a box with some desiccant then you dont need to dry it. unless you have long nylon prints.
i got a food dehydrator to dry my filament but after getting a propper box for with desiccant i never use it anymore :)
Yes some 3D print info I was hungry for! I been watching all the jb ender 3 videos recently. I’m about to buy one !
Moisture Eliminator from Dollar Tree for $1 each and a huge storage tub (might find these at Goodwill, Craiglist, Facebook Marketplace, etc or pay full price at HD or Lowes)...will never have wet filament again.
Does the box have a silicone seal around the top and bottom like others do? Can you use it for storage? The Sovol 2 roll box has a seal, locking clips, and plugs for the openings. Does this one?
There are designs like Thingiverse 2172384 to hold capricorn bowden tubing in the side of your dry box, enabling printing without needing to take the filament out, which avoids it absorbing moisture during printing.
I created a similar one for my cheap temperature controlled food dehydrator to print whilst the filament is kept warm.
the moisture filament accumulates over those few minutes is completely neglegible and the "wet" filament is purged when printing a priming strip and skirt. using a bowden tube on these looks cool but does not have much of a real benefit.
@@drkastenbrot When printing from a dry box the need of a bowden tube and how long it has to be depends on where the box & printer are in relation to each other.
Some spools are bigger than others because they use a larger inside diameter of the spool. Sometimes to prevent excessive bends about a small radius, but I imagine it's also a facade to make it seem like more filament.
Eh that was just big spool. Looked like a 2kg from here. Holding such reels side by side right now indeed does seem to confirm this.
@@twobob yeah I thought he said it was 1kg
Keep my filament in a plano box and i throw all the silica gel packs in it👍
Why would they design it with the filament outlets on the top of the box? I'm sure there is a printer that needs that but seriously...
one perk of living in Tucson az haha 🤘😲🤘
Where's the moisture supposed to go if the box is sealed???
The air becomes more humid as it absorbs moisture from the filament?
@@JoshuaBardwell Yes, the air inside the box gets more humid, which puts more pressure on the filament to absorb some of it, so you reach equilibrium sooner. And when you cut the heat the moisture will go back into the filament, so at least let it out before you put it away, if you store your filament in the box.
No clue how you avoided moisture with TPU. I have to be VERY vigilant with drying/keeping dry TPU. Nylon, PC, and TPU are the only ones I have had moisture issues with so far. Never had any issues with ABS.
50C is pathetic.
For example, Fillamentum recommend drying at 100C for their Flexfill TPU 98A - most TPUs want about 80C
Also with most of these designs (Certainly for the Sunlu FilaDry S1), the reported temp is very inaccurate because the temp sensor is right next to the heating element - See here: ruclips.net/video/6FG4O5l9XpE/видео.html
IMHO you are way better off using a regular oven, and get a digital thermometer which you put in with the filament.
Another BIG thing that most people forget is DO NOT EXPOSE THE FILAMENT TO AIR WHILE COOLING.
If you do, it can re-absorb the moisture it lost by the time it cools.
Here is my method:
Take a LARGE casserole dish that has a lid
Place the filament in the dish and surround it with silica gel sachets (Dry sachets, not ones containing moisture)
Put the temp sensor probe into the dish, touching the filament
Place the dish in the oven without the lid on and dry it (Adjust setting on oven until temp on sensor is right - largely ignore temp setting of oven)
Upon removing from the oven, IMMEDIATELY put the lid on the casserole dish and leave it until it cools down
Once cool, put the filament in a dry box and print directly from the dry box, or at the very least, put it in a zip-lock back with silica gel when not in use
Here's another thought for you people who want to keep your filament dry.
Get an insulated cover for your 3d printer. When the printer is running, it's naturally heating up it's environment inside the tent. It gets blasted hot in there in fact. If your filament is inside the insulated tent/cover, it's getting heated too. So it dries out naturally during operation.
If it's getting to a temperature decent enough to dry the filament, it's almost certainly not a healthy temp for your electronics (eg stepper motors)
Question: is the set/displayed temperature that of the heater or the air inside the dry box?
For most one spool dryers is is the heater element ....
which can be as much as 20 degrees lower than the air.
That's correct. I'm sure it's the heater element.
@@JoshuaBardwell I suspect that is going to be a deal breaker for many people then. Pretty much limits it to be used for PLA, PVA and TPU. Even PETG is very hygroscopic and needs higher temperatures for effective drying.
I just keep my filament in a sealed box with desiccant.
Are those flies having a race in the background :) ? Left those woop gates lit?
Hey Josh
Question about my rssi. I have the xmplus receiver. It’s not working properly so I’m running with one antenna so it’s like an xm. My rssi shows normally 10 but when I thrust it goes up. The more I thrust the higher my rssi goes up. Why is that? Thanks in advance.
The best thing to use is a food dehydrator. A couple years ago there was a purpose built filament dryer called "PrintDry" and my mind couldn't get away from the fact that it looked just like a food dehydrator my family had as a kid. So I did some searching around Amazon and low and behold, it was a food dehydrator, just marked way up in price! I ended up buying the food dehydrator and a clear rubbermaid container to make the "top" and it works amazing well. It fits 3+ standard rolls of filament and I haven't had an issue with it in almost 3 years.
Here is the food processor: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797CVXKN/
and here is the rubbermaid to make the top: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00237S2IU/
Apparently they don't have the exact one in stock but if you look around, it is one of those products where 10 different companies just rebrand something made at one factory for all of them.
But, the best tip overall is to store your filament properly so that you don't need to dry it, unless it is nylon because even stored properly nylon is so hydrophilic it will suck up water from a mile away in a vaccuum sealed bag. I would recommend getting large vaccuum seal bags for clothes (the ones you see on infomercials, they actually DO have a purpose) and then get some desiccant packs that can be recharged by plugging them into an outlet. They are so simple to use, just toss them in the bag when you seal it, and then you can monitor how much water it has absorbed without opening the bag. Then the recharge phase takes a few hours in any standard outlet. Here is what I mean: www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0XFCS/
LOL yeah really perfect timing! Where were you days ago when I ordered those two polyboxes that I just assumed were heated?? Haha I was chatting about this on your discord 3d group a couple hours before you posted this to YT.
Lol I have one, and I am a bit disappointed by the seal. Very poorly designed. It extends the printable time for hygroscopic filaments before dehydrating again, but it could be SO much better.
@@taylormay9938 agreed! I got both mine setup then taped them shut so they would not get bumped open which happened a few times in just the first couple of days.
I think that for *most* filaments, as long as you are in a climate controlled environment moisture in filament is not an appreciable issue.
*there are certain filaments that are more sensitive to moisture (I'm looking at you, nylon)
So, it's just a box? With a heater in it?
I heard it's just a box, with a heater in it
and a timer. and a display with a display driver chip (maaaybe), a sensor - probably combined, an additional temp probe for fail-over one would hope, power chip, LC & R and some glue logics. Some kind of microprocessor - likely a one shot if they are really keen on bringing down BOM cost. I suspect you could run most of the logic with a 1cent chip from lcsc (seems like a PID /INT loop) and perhaps some flash ram/rom for kicks. So it's a box with couple of dollar in electro-BOM and some heating elements. Could you make one for less: Most certainly. Would it be white plastic with an injection moulded fit for the gaskets. Unlikely :)
No no no, its a heater with a box around it.
Well I guess I'll look for a food dehydrator at Goodwill. If I have to mod one I'd rather use an old one than brand new.
Maybe the petg cannot be wound as tightly as pla?
So you need a larger diameter hub for your petg
PETG can be wound on the same spools as PLA, but annoyingly, as Joshua found out, there's no set standards regarding spool dimensions for manufacturers to comply with. The diameters of most are fairly consistent, center diameter generally ranges between 50-60mm and the outer diameter 190-200mm, but the wideness varies a lot.
My guess is because filaments are sold by their weight not their physical volume.