Well if I look at the rail (not saying this is the most accurate way to go about it), it does go up more than the one on say Door 2 when it closes. But yeah sure, if ya want to make one, I'll give it a watch!
I wouldn’t be overly concerned with door #3 applying more pressure than the other 2 units, that’s what the safety sensors are for. On these electronic units I have found they don’t always work as intended. I’ve had units that the force setting were non functional right out of the box (had to replace the logic board). You can retrain the force settings by pressing the yellow learn button twice to enter the force setting mode (the up arrow should be flashing) press the up arrow to fully open the door, after the door completes an open cycle, the down arrow should be flashing. press the down arrow to close the door after the door completes its close cycle, setting the force is complete. If you want to reprogram the limits, the owners manual walks through this process. They are easy to set but can be finicky if you haven’t done it before.
That’s a valid point. The sensors are a big help. If I go to the force setting, will the opener retain the open and close limits if I don’t adjust those? I have seen videos on how to do it before.
A more well built version that has mechanical sensors is the 3265 the older brother to this opener and has the same look but black and separate force and travel dials
I would suggest to increase the close travel by 1 quarter of a full turn to get the garage door to reverse, the force doesn't have anything to do with it in this case.
These models have electronically set limits. I don't really want to move it down any further because I think it would be pushing up on the rail too much.
I like you doing this test and not staging it to work on all of them. You might need to increase the down travel. I'm not too sure how to do it for this one because it's electronic. I like the screws better. I guess it doesn't really matter if you don't have kids there
Indeed! Unstaged videos are the best. Travel is pretty easy, you just hit a couple of buttons on the opener, and there's arrows to tell ya what to do. It's really pretty easy.
I asked them to because they're easier to work with when the time comes for replacement. Also, usually with these types of doors, the torsion type is usually only one spring, which means when that breaks, the door is now stuck down as it has no lift assistance at all. With this kind, I can still lift the door by hand as one spring is still attached (yes, I've done it before) and then lock it in place with vice grips or a C-clamp, and get the car out.
@@Sharkie626 The third garage door Its not traveling far enough in a down direction so it’s not reversing on the 1 inch object readjust your door travel and force adjustments
Like I said, in the old days, before the sensors at the bottom of the door, you used to put something like a basketball, far more than the 2 inches the wood provided. If that worked, it was good. Too bad it has to wait till the spring, being Millennial and stick... ;-p
Oh, so THAT'S how they get away from the cops...... I think the wood test isn't so much about the sensors, but to take as little as possible for the opener to reverse. It did go okay with two pieces of wood, and looking at the other comments, it's probably okay as is, and obviously if something as high as a basketball blocked it, it would definitely reverse. Believe it or not I have moved the Z in and out of the garage with no issues. It's more of that it's all there for the winter with the battery maintainer connected, and it's not really an urgent situation, so it can wait for now.
Har har! Yeah, I know it worked with 2 pieces of wood. Still would be curious to see in the spring if it can re-learn. Yeah, I know, I was just busting your -roe- basketballs!
Did you know that 12voltvids made the video about his same product for his garage door opener where he has to replace with the new gear and made a rant video about the price what charge him to order parts in Canada? And I don't know why the door No.3 didn't do that to open the door back automatically, probably because like you said, it might be the sensitivity sensor who thinks it's clear and not in the way, but the door No.1 and 2, it works fine like it should.
Oh yeah I know all about those gears. They say to check them every few years and re-grease them if necessary. Yeah the one for 3 must have different sensitivity. At least it did work with two pieces of wood.
@@Sharkie626 But mine is actually original to my 1983 home. Yeah, I only got one. You would probably know if you saw the video of the rental GMC Acadia.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
The problem with the opener not reversing is because it’s not closing as much as it should. Want me to make a video of what I mean?
Well if I look at the rail (not saying this is the most accurate way to go about it), it does go up more than the one on say Door 2 when it closes. But yeah sure, if ya want to make one, I'll give it a watch!
Sharkie626 if it’s bowing up more than it is on the other doors, then it’s closing far enough.
ruclips.net/video/vvgFtak5C2E/видео.html
I wouldn’t be overly concerned with door #3 applying more pressure than the other 2 units, that’s what the safety sensors are for. On these electronic units I have found they don’t always work as intended. I’ve had units that the force setting were non functional right out of the box (had to replace the logic board). You can retrain the force settings by pressing the yellow learn button twice to enter the force setting mode (the up arrow should be flashing) press the up arrow to fully open the door, after the door completes an open cycle, the down arrow should be flashing. press the down arrow to close the door after the door completes its close cycle, setting the force is complete. If you want to reprogram the limits, the owners manual walks through this process. They are easy to set but can be finicky if you haven’t done it before.
That’s a valid point. The sensors are a big help. If I go to the force setting, will the opener retain the open and close limits if I don’t adjust those? I have seen videos on how to do it before.
Sharkie626 It should retain the travel limits.
@@GarageDoorGuy89 Sounds good. Maybe I'll give it a try in the warmer seasons.
Do you have safety cables though spring? Please let me do
Oh absolutely! I made sure all of the were taught too.
A more well built version that has mechanical sensors is the 3265 the older brother to this opener and has the same look but black and separate force and travel dials
Oh yeah I know that model. One of my friends has it.
Why won’t that garage door opener reverse?
why did you opt for extension springs instead of a torsion system
Easier to work with when the time comes for replacements.
I would suggest to increase the close travel by 1 quarter of a full turn to get the garage door to reverse, the force doesn't have anything to do with it in this case.
These models have electronically set limits. I don't really want to move it down any further because I think it would be pushing up on the rail too much.
The door you call number 1 sounds like my chamberlain 4200
Don't know if you still read comments on here. Just a tip, you might need to increase the down travel on the opener for number 3
I do!
I might try that when it gets warm out. Thanks!
travel limits..bend the rail if you have to ..or sell your house, otherwise don't worry about it, tech since '93
I like you doing this test and not staging it to work on all of them. You might need to increase the down travel. I'm not too sure how to do it for this one because it's electronic. I like the screws better. I guess it doesn't really matter if you don't have kids there
Indeed! Unstaged videos are the best. Travel is pretty easy, you just hit a couple of buttons on the opener, and there's arrows to tell ya what to do. It's really pretty easy.
Appreciate that
you need to get the liftmaster 8550w
Don't like DC motor openers. They are too quiet and boring.
i like the AC motors too i love the buzzing plus he cant put in jack shaft openers because its an extension spring
And the door that you call number 3 is just like my chamberlain 4200 it does NOT reverse with the 2X4 but it does with more chain goes up like it to
who would put extension springs on a garage door that has the headroom for a torsion spring
I asked them to because they're easier to work with when the time comes for replacement. Also, usually with these types of doors, the torsion type is usually only one spring, which means when that breaks, the door is now stuck down as it has no lift assistance at all. With this kind, I can still lift the door by hand as one spring is still attached (yes, I've done it before) and then lock it in place with vice grips or a C-clamp, and get the car out.
Sharkie626 oh that’s true your car will be stuck
On door #3 how it is not reversing. Mine is doing the same thing.
I have a Chamberlain c450
Hope it works well!
Well the force doesn't work but the opener is great
Well as for #3 at least items you don't want crushed by the door would be more than 4 inches high
You have a very nice garage!
Haha I guess that's one way to put it. At least it still works, just not as sensitive.
And thanks!
ive never seen a t rail bend before
Oh it can happen.
@@Sharkie626 t rails are made from recycled railroad tracks thats why its so supriseing
Door number three is not traveling far enough
Do you mean when closing? It would push up on the rail too much if it went any further.
@@Sharkie626 The third garage door
Its not traveling far enough in a down direction so it’s not reversing on the 1 inch object readjust your door travel and force adjustments
Like I said, in the old days, before the sensors at the bottom of the door, you used to put something like a basketball, far more than the 2 inches the wood provided. If that worked, it was good.
Too bad it has to wait till the spring, being Millennial and stick... ;-p
Oh, so THAT'S how they get away from the cops......
I think the wood test isn't so much about the sensors, but to take as little as possible for the opener to reverse. It did go okay with two pieces of wood, and looking at the other comments, it's probably okay as is, and obviously if something as high as a basketball blocked it, it would definitely reverse.
Believe it or not I have moved the Z in and out of the garage with no issues. It's more of that it's all there for the winter with the battery maintainer connected, and it's not really an urgent situation, so it can wait for now.
Har har!
Yeah, I know it worked with 2 pieces of wood. Still would be curious to see in the spring if it can re-learn.
Yeah, I know, I was just busting your -roe- basketballs!
Did you know that 12voltvids made the video about his same product for his garage door opener where he has to replace with the new gear and made a rant video about the price what charge him to order parts in Canada?
And I don't know why the door No.3 didn't do that to open the door back automatically, probably because like you said, it might be the sensitivity sensor who thinks it's clear and not in the way, but the door No.1 and 2, it works fine like it should.
Oh yeah I know all about those gears. They say to check them every few years and re-grease them if necessary.
Yeah the one for 3 must have different sensitivity. At least it did work with two pieces of wood.
Nice love those garages
Thanks for watching!
At least they have emergency cords.
Always important!
I plan to make a video of my Sears Craftsman Garage door opener. And yes, it does have that red emergency cord.
@@MinecraftPro97k Nice! We had those brands way back.
@@Sharkie626
But mine is actually original to my 1983 home. Yeah, I only got one. You would probably know if you saw the video of the rental GMC Acadia.