Great Primer Chris! I suggest the next time you explain slicing you mention a word or two about the skirt and the the intro line that allows the printer to get a clean start on the printed object. I hope your lesson plan includes a unit that covers the basics of multi color prints both in CAD and the slicer. I am tackling a steep learning curve learning how to cad multi-color models.
I like that you set it up only for the printer you have. A new user could go crazy and have way too many options and make simple mistakes. I use Prusa SLicer for about half of my printers and Orca for the others. It gets to be complicated if you have too many being used at one time. A new user can experiment with different options - orientation and speed, the beauty is that most prints are going to go pretty fast and not use too much filament. If it fails you are not out a lot of time or expense, one of the advantages over working with wood or metal.
I've built two Bear clones, both Bowden, no auto bed level and successfully using modified E3 v2 profiles with Prusa slicer. Just edited some parameters, acceleration, retract distance etc. Just need to work around what you have.
oh yeah the "sorting files....." I forgot about that. I haven't used my mk3 in so long. And I never will again. It's getting upgraded during the break to a 3.5. Honestly I don't know how much use the 3.5 will get.
@@ChrisRiley Well......I will say this. I actually prefer revo to the mk4 hot end. It's completely tool-less, no wires, just quickly screw it in by hand. But my mk4s (newly upgraded from mk4 with the "wrong" LCD lol) does get most of the work. I mostly wanted to use my mk3 because it was in a room where I cut off the AC and I wanted to print PP. My mk4 can't do PP cause of the drafts. However......prusa just released the new PP sheet. I'm wondering if this means I can print PP at any time. Warping off the bed was the only issue I ever recall. I don't think it splits layers. Anyway.....the mk3 doesn't work because I never bothered to upgrade the MMU2 and even with a USB adapter (maybe it's faulty) I get all 5 green flashes. I couldn't even start the print. I have the kit. I have the printed parts, I just haven't gotten around to it. So that too will be xmas break. Maybe I start taking the mmu2 apart this weekend. I honestly have no idea if the mk3.5 will ever use the MMU3. The mk4s almost exclusively does. lol
Yes, there are. I use it. I've tried any slicer out there, still coming back to Prusa slicer. Most of the slicers out there ARE based on Prusa slicer. That's the beauty of open source.
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Great Primer Chris! I suggest the next time you explain slicing you mention a word or two about the skirt and the the intro line that allows the printer to get a clean start on the printed object. I hope your lesson plan includes a unit that covers the basics of multi color prints both in CAD and the slicer. I am tackling a steep learning curve learning how to cad multi-color models.
Great suggestion, I will work that into the next one. For sure, we will get into multi color.
ruclips.net/video/Pcbqra7VMVg/видео.htmlsi=CjOA8bBrKo7yLuV0
I put this up. Hope it helps. I'm sure Chris' content will be better being a pro! 😁
@@hanslain9729 Awesome video!
nothing wrong with it it works very well and its free and its supported by the open source community
👍😊
I like that you set it up only for the printer you have. A new user could go crazy and have way too many options and make simple mistakes. I use Prusa SLicer for about half of my printers and Orca for the others. It gets to be complicated if you have too many being used at one time. A new user can experiment with different options - orientation and speed, the beauty is that most prints are going to go pretty fast and not use too much filament. If it fails you are not out a lot of time or expense, one of the advantages over working with wood or metal.
Thanks Dave, I am trying to ease into the whole process it's hard to know what people want to know.
I've built two Bear clones, both Bowden, no auto bed level and successfully using modified E3 v2 profiles with Prusa slicer. Just edited some parameters, acceleration, retract distance etc. Just need to work around what you have.
oh yeah the "sorting files....." I forgot about that. I haven't used my mk3 in so long. And I never will again. It's getting upgraded during the break to a 3.5. Honestly I don't know how much use the 3.5 will get.
You're going to love the 3.5!
@@ChrisRiley Well......I will say this. I actually prefer revo to the mk4 hot end. It's completely tool-less, no wires, just quickly screw it in by hand. But my mk4s (newly upgraded from mk4 with the "wrong" LCD lol) does get most of the work.
I mostly wanted to use my mk3 because it was in a room where I cut off the AC and I wanted to print PP. My mk4 can't do PP cause of the drafts. However......prusa just released the new PP sheet. I'm wondering if this means I can print PP at any time. Warping off the bed was the only issue I ever recall. I don't think it splits layers.
Anyway.....the mk3 doesn't work because I never bothered to upgrade the MMU2 and even with a USB adapter (maybe it's faulty) I get all 5 green flashes. I couldn't even start the print. I have the kit. I have the printed parts, I just haven't gotten around to it. So that too will be xmas break.
Maybe I start taking the mmu2 apart this weekend. I honestly have no idea if the mk3.5 will ever use the MMU3. The mk4s almost exclusively does. lol
I can't believe that there is people are still using this slicer software
Yes, there are. I use it. I've tried any slicer out there, still coming back to Prusa slicer. Most of the slicers out there ARE based on Prusa slicer. That's the beauty of open source.
Almost all companies are still using it.