Removing Seized/Stuck/Frozen Seatpost With Impact Wrench
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- Опубликовано: 6 ноя 2019
- I show how to remove a stuck seat post using an impact wrench. I used a Kawasaki 840017 1/2" impact wrench that is rated for 220 ft/lbs of torque. A higher powered impact wrench probably would have done the job faster. More power is always good!
The masonry drill bit I used was a Bosch 5/16 in. x 4 in. x 6 in. Blue Granite Turbo Carbide Hammer Drill Bit from Home Depot. I ran the drill press at 990rpm. Maybe a bit fast. There are not good charts for using a carbide tip masonry bit to drill hardened steel. There are different opinions on what speed to use. The 30mm impact socket came from Harbor Freight. The bolts were 5/16" grade 8 bolts.
The bolts showed no wear. The holes in the seatpost were only slightly deformed.
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RJ The Bike Guy smart idea🤘
@ken thomas ruclips.net/p/PLxO5aF0sensiVdiClC_JH6OboqFl5Dvay
@@marcocarrillo4645 Generally freewheels are just replaced. They can be taken apart and worked on, but that is not the norm. Parts from another freewheel of the same brand/model would work. But again, you can just buy a new one.
What's your go to for stuck pedals? Great video BTW.
@@cr4igsmith ruclips.net/video/Tia5y9kfVk0/видео.html
Park will be selling this for $125 in a couple of weeks.
LFMAO
I love it when "Crazy RJ" takes over the show!
When I do something like this I yell to the neighbor ... "Hey Dennis I'm about to do something stupid. To which he replies ... "Hold on, let me grab the camera!"
That was awesome. Anyone who’s wrestled with a frozen seat post...holy cow, worth the effort of making that tool.
Scott Hughes 100% agree! Probably one of the most satisfying videos I’ve ever watched:)
I did this following his video. I had tried everything else but was starting to realize I might total the bike. So my grandfather and I made the tool and he was amazed that it worked. Thanks RJ!
Brilliant solution! I've seen pictures of the results of using a giant lever arm to try and rotate the seat post - it often ends in a twisted frame. This method uses force, but with repeated impact - much safer. A higher powered impact wrench may have been faster, but it also may have had results akin to a long lever arm. I'd be happy using just enough force to get the job done. Thanks for sharing!
I love this! This is the best method for removing a stuck seatpost I've ever seen! I have won a couple and lost a couple to stuck seatposts, always like the challenge, and sometimes the price can't be beat on bikes with stuck posts. Thanks for being you RJ, this is great, and I think I'll be doing this as well.
I love how you keep finding stuck seat post and handle
I actively seek them out.
@@RJTheBikeGuy That's odd because they seem to keep seeking me out. :-)
@@GreenJimll I wish I could find a few more.
That Specialized Hardrock has a new lease on life 👍
I went to see your earlier videos for my seized frame, went all the way to sodium hydroxide, ended up machining it out. This is definitely a clever approach. Enjoyed the video.
I'm impressed. I have a seatpost stuck on my daughters bike, that my wife wants me to get rid of, now off to the hardware store. KB
Your knowledge of bikes and tools goes on for days. Unmatched on RUclips. Thank you for sharing RJ.
Hats off to you. I did not think an impact wrench could do the job of breaking lose the stuck seat post. I have a vintage Nishiki road bike with a stuck seat post. For years I've tried different methods but has never been able to pull the post out.
You are a genius sir!! Both your impact solution, plus the 2nd tool you made are ones I am going to try moving forward with. I love your videos and you are pretty much the go to guy for me when I am trying to solve problems on the bikes I am repairing.
You are a genius!!! We just tried it in our shop in Gainesville, Fl and it worked great. Now we can actually save good frames that before would go into the trash. Thank you for sharing your genius with the world!
Very cool!
I like this method the most of all your tries. Great idea RJ! I have my old 80's Sekai 2600 Eurosport with a stuck seat post. Tried the pipe wrench and made a mess of it. There's enough post left to try this method out. Thanks for another great video!
VERY impressive! Another excellent video on not ONLY removing a very difficult seatpole but also making a tool that can be used again and again. Imagine how many bikes have been sent to the landfill because of a stuck seatpole.( I've given up on 2 myself)
I've been working on a siezed seatpost for days now. How RUclips knew about this and stuck this in my recommended list I have no idea, but thank you!
Love your tenacity, and ways of taking on a problem from different angles.
Thank you for your stuck seatpost videos, and particularly this one! This is what finally did the trick for me after trying the following, after just trying to twist it out by the seat (I have a Pivot Cycles carbon frame and aluminum dropper post):
1. Pipe strap wrench, normal temperature
2. Pipe wrench, normal temperature, post insert now destroyed from teeth on wrench.
3. Pipe strap wrench, but with dry ice filling up the seat post just after heating the seat tube with a heat gun
4. Pipe wrench with same as #3
5. Drill 3/8" hole through top of post insert and try 5 lb slide hammer (couldn't track down a 10 lb hammer) (like your other video) with heat, then dry ice
6. Invert bike, put ziploc bag tight around top of seat tube & post & fill seat tube with coca cola (per Pivot Cycles and other on-line suggestion) and let sit for two days to get at the galvanic corrosion. Then, make impact wrench socket tool per your video (more on this below) and rent an impact wrench and attempt. The impact wrench is what finally did the trick; before this, nothing even budged the seatpost. I didn't even try cooling the aluminum post down first. It took the second (of four) lowest torque setting (about 75-150 ft. lbs; the lowest setting did nothing). The impact wrench got it turning. Then I had a friend run the impact wrench while I tried to lift up on the socket with a crescent wrench, but then the top of the seat post insert sheared off. Luckily there was enough post sticking out, so I drilled another 3/8" hole through the top of the post, went back to the hardware store (for about the 8th time on this project) and got a 3/8" x about 9" lag bolt, and more dry ice. I filled the post up with dry ice, stuck the lag bolt through, and immediately started twisting and pulling up and was finally able to get it out by hand (after the impact wrench got it unseized).
For me, one of the biggest pain in the asses of this overall pain in the ass was drilling the 3/8" hole all the way through the hardened steel socket. I used the carbon-tipped masonry bits, but I had to use three bits of three different sizes for EACH hole (plus a carbide-tipped glass bit), so 7 new bits total, and I destroyed all 7 bits. I did not have a drill press, only a hand drill, so perhaps that was part of the issue. I did spend a lot of time researching how to drill through hardened steel. In my case, the only thing that worked was starting with a small hole, then a bigger hole, then the 3/8" hole.
I wish I had your attitude, because unlike you, I absolutely HATED trying to get this seatpost out and hope to never have to go through that again. This was done over about a 3-week period (I got discouraged after every attempt and had to give it a little break). I actually just bought a new dropper post that I can quickly and easily remove without having to undo the cable at the remote, which I will do every month or two (Pivot Cycles recommends no carbon paste, anti-seize, or grease between an aluminum seatpost and their carbon frame).
Thanks again for making your awesome videos, as I used several of them for this project. Cheers to you RJ!
guess could heat the hardened socket with a torch at drilling ponts makes it softer when cooled, or just surround it with hot coals maybe, might even drill it while still red hot is it even softer then, guess bits need cooling and oiling so , lots of oil or maybe water oil emulsion. or just water if cooling is more imporant then oiling, maybe just used motor oil cheap.
That’s a great method. I have just recently resorted to carefully cutting slices to the inner seat post tube with a reciprocating saw and found this to be a good method also.
I first found your channel trying to do a Frozen Seat post! I hacked my old timberline post to peices and gave up. This would have saved it!!!! That is a tool that was def worth sacrificing a drill bit for.
Brilliant! I love your battles with seat posts. Never seen a man so happy! 👍
Ingenious solution to a very common problem when buying second hand Bikes. I recently spent about 3 hours (over 3 different days) getting a seat post out of a 1998 Saracen Protrax which had been stored outdoors. I ruined a wooden mallet and the original saddle (no biggie as it was crap anyway). I sprayed untold amounts of WD40 down there and on day 3 I finally got it to move by jamming an old set of steel handlebars between the saddle rails, which gave me the leverage I needed to get the seat post to turn. Not as ingenious as your method, but I was that close to junking the whole frame, it gives a real sense of satisfaction when you beat something like that and "save" the bike.
That was the best way I have seen to remove a stuck seat post. I have had a stuck seat post in the past and it was frustrating to remove with just brute force.
RJ you deserve every comment on here- worked for me too. Sincerely, thank you!
RJ. What a creative and wonderful way to remove a frozen seat post. Keep them coming.
Nice, years ago I unstuck a seatpost and a stem in an old Masi I bought using the slow and patient method (took a week)you showed us. Still have the bike and it rides great have a great holiday.
I'm going to try and grind the top of the seat post into a hexagon shape like a bolt then use an impact gun to turn it. Thanks for the inspiration
That was amazing, brilliant, RJ!
I also remove the bottom bracket, turn the frame upside down, and spray penetrant oil UP from the bottom, and let it soak-in.
Rust remove, or perhaps acid (citric, vinegar?) has also been recommended elsewhere.
creative solution dude! This is why I sub RJ, you're pretty damn inventive and always looking to provide solid solutions to us tinkerers.
Thanks for the tip man you're a hero, just saved a few frames from the metal bin
Greetings from Amsterdam✌
Thanks for the excellent video. Followed your technique and managed to get my aluminium dropper post out of my carbon frame, Trance Advance 2014. Had to saw the post which causes quite a mess and left some internals but there was enough space for the bolt to get through.
Very happy now, as even my local bike shop failed!
Maybe you should show your LBS this video. :D
Yes I've sent a link to this video as it's such an effective technique and been explaining to folk in the bike scene here in Cape Town about your video.
Good stuff RJ! I enjoy watching your creative methods to get those stuck parts out.
I made a socket like yours and although it took more time and a pretty powerful impact wrench it came out! Thanks RJ!
I personally feel like this was the best option I’ve seen so far. Great idea.
I don't deal much with stuck seatposts like these but I love your ideas of taking them out
Very clever, love it. I used 2 bottles of caustic soda crystals last time I got one of those out! Took me ages. Will use this method if I need to get one out next time.
Wow that is truly revolutionary. Looking forward to using this process.
Another vote here for a video on a similar method for seized stem removal.
That was so easy, practical and doable by everyone!
That's brilliant, I was wouldn't believe it. Well done x
Hello RJ the Bike Guy. I wanted to say your method went great for me. Your video was very helpful worked like a charm. Thanks and Salutations! Happy Holidays
I almost cried when you drilled that socket. You totally went Tim Allen though, so good finish!
Yeah! Another home-made tool. Thanks, RJ!
Awesome video RJ! Definitely going to use this next time I find a stuck seat post 👍👍👍👍👍
I like it! Also didn''t know you can drill through hardened steel with masonry bits. Thanks!
Brilliant !!! Worked for me after wasting time trying everything else - thankyou.
Very impressive. However, I do not what to admire more - the actual technique of removing the seat post or all the tools and equipment that you have. I appreciate the fact that you have your own garage packed with tools, but most people do not have this luxury, so we have to live with what we have. From my perspective the easiest thing to do it - put some WD 40 in the post a let it stand for few hours, take the frame , put it in a bath, pour 3-4 litres of boiling water on the spot, with a pipe wrench (longer the better) try moving the post back and forth until it comes out. Tried it few times, worked fine form me. However, thank you for the video, your method is very sexy , you are turning the stuck post removal process into art...
Good tip regarding the masonary bit 👍👍
I can FEEL the satisfaction!!! Fantastic idea. Just awesome. 10 thumbs up!!!
Always give him thumbs up guys, he’s been helping us with tips, tricks and no bullshits vids.
Great one, again! :)
That looks like a first fun way of the seatpost removal...
These seat post videos are so satisfying!
Not sure why, but that made my day. Nice job.
Love impact wrench!))) Saves so many times!
Thats very satisfying. Got my aluminum seatpost out of a steel frame using oxy-acetylene torch. Will give this a try!
Nicely done! I had a similar situation and my LBS had one guy hold a rod that was thru the seatpost while two others slowly turned my bike.
Great video, RJ. I'm definitely saving this for later reference.
Thanks your videos are great. Me and my friend by and sell used bikes. We fix’s them and sell them. Even give some away. But for sure the seat post can totally wreck a good bike. We will be trying your impact trick soon. Awesome video!!
I've wrangled with far more stuck posts than I care to admit. After seeing this brilliant method, I'd like to take that impact wrench to the twenty jerks who disliked this video and think they have a "better way." This is about as good as it gets when everything else fails. Thanks, RJ.
Lol
@@RJTheBikeGuy Gotta go through life with humor...without it, you'll sink like a stone. (P.S.: Thanks for being yourself. Too many stuck-up how-tos on RUclips).
@@cudak888 Read through the comments on any of my stuck seatpost videos and you will find people who post stuff like, just spray it with WD-40 for a week, tap it with a hammer, and it will come right out...works every time. Just heat up the frame, and tap it with a hammer...works every time. Pretty much nothing works everytime with a seized seat post short of cutting it out.... Even using a big pipe wrench. Had one post where it just started crushing and twisting it. Ack!
@@RJTheBikeGuy Never underestimate the ignorance of someone who's had one very LUCKY experience with a stuck seatpost, and thinks it applies to every other stuck seatpost in existence. Always depends on the amount of aluminum oxide buildup, and only seasoned used bike mechanics know the drill (pun not intended).
Worst stuck post I ever experienced was on my '61 Schwinn Paramount - it had a factory rolled aluminum post, installed in there since the beginning of time with no grease. No place to grab, and soft as butter. It's the only time I really did take time and care to hacksaw a post. It never really wanted to budge upwards, but the frame happened to have two huge dents in the seattube... so I used another post above it to carefully ram it down the tube, effectively pushing the dents back out. It sounds like a complete hack job (again, pun not intended), but it worked, with no damage to the 531. Post is still in there :)
@@cudak888 I have some other ideas for removal when I get some more bikes with seized posts. One for removing a post that is cut off or wedged down like that. I think it will work.
Brilliant idea RJ thanks for sharing this it will help a lot of people I'm sure
Brilliant! Wish I saw this vid befor jacking up the post that is currently stuck in my frame, cut too short to try this methos now.
Great job RJ!
At first I thought it was ill advised to drill the socket, but then realized you made a special tool that can be used again on a fairly common problem, so good idea! My thought was to drill the seat post, stick a bolt through, and try to engage the bolt with opposing corners of the socket. The bolt would have to be sized precisely to engage the socket and not slip. Your tool has a better grip.
best stuck seat post resource going...love these vids 👍
Ring
Hello, this is RJ.
Hello RJ, this is Park Tool and we’d like to offer you a complete line of tools in exchange for your Frozen Stem Torque Patent....
I have never heard from Park Tool. I am guessing they know who I am.
RJ The Bike Guy You’re an advertising machine for them. Always see their products on your channel. Be nice to see them send you some gear. You deserve it RJ.
RJ Park Tool is The SH××, they are big. The are the one's with the blue packaging 😀
DON'T DO IT ! ! !
hold out for real $$$$$
@@RJTheBikeGuy mate, I'm not 100% on this, but I'm pretty sure that the bloke who posted that message was just mucking about (in a good way 😊) and made that up to make people smile.
You're a mad scientist RJ! I love it :D
I am going to give a try - looks reasonable enough. Since it worked for you, it should work for me. Nice Job.
Superb! I wish that I still had my machine shop!
You must have a nice collection of dead seat posts. Another victory! Great idea.
Another clever fix RJ... . !! Sweet !!
Great work RJ!
RJ is a genius!
Awesome! I wish I'd known about this 5 years ago before I trashed my Eddy Merckx that had a stuck seat-post. :(
:'(
Best method for stuck seat posts. Now to find something as good for stems.
Looks like it'd work for stems. You'd obviously destroy it in the process, though.
Was going to say the same thing (got a Cinelli stuck in a steel fork in the garage right now), but while that amount of torque may work on a well braced seat tube, I'm afraid of what it'd do to a fork crown.
ruclips.net/video/8b4t42wiJpQ/видео.html
@@johnpossum556 You would but the best thing about this method is the way it minimizes the risk of collateral damage to the frame.
Cool RJ. Another way to attack a stubborn problem.
Wow that was super impressive!
Geez...I ride a custom built road bike on a Surly Disc Trucker steel frame. I'm going to be careful and not let my seat post get stuck. This was a good video.
super creative solution! kudos to you buddy!
Excellent job, even better job of you to share the info
Even though you are not quite on his level yet, your contribution to the DIY bike mechanic is without a doubt in the same league as Sheldon Brown's. Impressive.
I am a fan of Sheldon. RIP.
As usual a great idea from Archie!
RJ
Looks like the best way so far great videos. 👍
That's some next level seatpost removal.
Wow incredible!! Fantastic video
RJ the MVP, hands down
This video is so good that I watch it over and over again
RJ .. can you post some more of these please? I enjoy watching them alot and it gives me as much pleasure as when I remove one myself!
Absolute legend.
You're a wizard RJ!
Brilliant, simply brilliant.
Oh No...another tool I've got to make. BRILLIANT
Sir, always use low speed for drilling holes. Material removal rate is higher as drill doesn't get much heated.
Karan Kundal ur completely wrong
You get better chip removal for metals at low spindle speeds. There are charts for that somewhere.
@@bobdixon3048 Bro i'm a mechanical engineer. And have done drilling countless no. of times. The material of the socket is made of high carbon steel which is very hard (resistance to wear) so high speed will result in poor chip removal because the drill bit will do superficial machining lot of the time (it will slip on the surface only). The drilling setup RJ is using has different set of pulleys attached to the motor. Going to larger dia pulley will result in high rpm and low torque and smaller dia will result in low rpms and high torque which is ideal while drilling. Hope you are clear. If not then you can try drilling metal workpiece by using both slow and fast speed sometime. You'll notice the reduction in drilling time.🙂
The harder the material the lower the surface speed simple
@@WorshipMyBikeOrDie Not everyone is a mechanical engineer here so it explained it in such a way that it could be easily comprehended by most of us.
(1) I never denied that.
(2)I know the difference and Rj's set up has a pulley belt drive for power transmission as i've seen in his previous videos.
(3) By speed, I'm referring to the spindle speed and all other velocities are proportional to this speed only.
And yes drill bit does get heated irrespective of the chip removal. But if the chip is being removed then a major chunk of heat being produced is carried away by chip only. Slipping (which is likely to occur at higher speeds) will prevent chip removal. Heat will accumulate at the machining spot. Temperature will rise and your drill bit will be burnt.
Genius! I never thought that was going to work.
Extremely satisfying
i would for sure rent the impact wrench and go at a bunch of 'em. great method
I got this problem on my old steel frame..i thougt it was bent its that stuck..i kno how im gettin mine off now haha..top job RJ
Awesomely ingenuitive. 👍
hmm my old cannondale frame has a frozen seatpost and i have an impact wrench. will be giving this a try. thanks for the great tip.
wow another cool one! great stuff, regretfully i do not have the big drill to drill a socket, have to find something around that, great stuff!
And this will resolve my problem..thanks a lot..
Cool technique RJ.
That was awesome. Well done sir.