@RightOnJonCrane we recently tried this with an 8 ft piece of redwood. 5 days after the first coat application there are still a couple tacky areas. Is it safe to sand the tacky areas or is there a way we can solidify the areas that are still tacky. Thanks in advance.
These videos are quite amazing and I can't imagine how much production time goes into them. Great flow, super interesting and entertaining. Gorgeous artistry all around. Loving your channel!
Hey Jon, Fantastic method! I just poured the 1/8th finish coat on a pecan burl moments ago. I sure wish I had seen your video on this process before hand. The dust is just awful. I have more work ahead of me now to fix the problem. I will definitely be utilizing your technique on my next piece. Thank you for sharing! JC
It just amazing me how it goes from the sanded look to the clear...sanded it just looks ruined... and then..bam..its crystal clear.... I have those sanding pads as well.. they work great! The slab looks fantastic!! Enjoyed the seeing this process and especially the up close shot of that awesome beer light🤠👍 thank ya Mr. Jon!
Hi Jon ☺ thanks for another great video mate, you certainly put the effort in to achieve that stunning finish, well done. Someone is going to be very proud to have a table made from those slabs, this has been an eye opener my friend, keep right on whith these super videos, hope your all doing well, stay safe, best wishe's to all, Stuart Uk.
Amazing, I was stacked with an end grain slab that a customer never finished, quite a project.. testing everywhere.. I didn't know how to finish.. this is the way. Thank you. P.S: no shake polyurethane ;)
John, really enjoyed this video. I've been looking for a finish process on a very big heavy pine table I made. I don't like the plastic look either. Wipe on poly discolored the "blue pine" to a greenish mold look! I've ordered the material you used and will be testing your process out. Thanks for sharing.
What grit did you sand too before applying the wipe on poly? And was this done with the yellowing sanding block I couldn’t tell what grit you used? Thanks.
You might consider using a lower viscosity sanding sealer and white glue to start with. The white glue will settle lower into the wider cracks and the sanding sealer will take care of the rest. Both products dry clear. The sanding sealer can also be applied via a sprayer, which would be great against the bark. At this point, you’d be able to use your wipe on poly first, followed by a thin coat of epoxy. Most of your sanding would be at first.
This is one of those rare videos I wish I could like multiple times. I have some rounds and I've never done epoxy before this is exactly what I needed. Did you progress up in your grit as you sanded?
I got two words for you... HOME RUN...just nature at its best... two questions...does it scratch easy and if it does get scratched can you just put another top coat on... just beautiful👍👍👍
After the epoxy sets up it takes a couple weeks for it to fully harden. It is very durable and yes you can put a coat of wipe on poly at any time! Can also lightly sand with scotch bright and then put on wipe on poly. I think it’s a great system.
Beautiful table. Roy "wood" not have used power tools or a mask. LOL I use to like the The Woodwright's Shop. I remember one episode and could not help notice he had band aides on most his fingers. By the end of most shows sweet pouring down his forehead. Thanks for the video.
Awesome video! I just got a huge white oak cookie that I look forward to doing this in about three years but not sure what to do with it to hopefully keep the bark on and prevent as much cracking as possible. I know the cracking is inevitable but if I can mitigate that it would be nice. Any recommendations? It will probably live in a shed for the indefinite future and I will check to make sure there is no mold or whatever. Any advice is very helpful! Thanks
Yes, if it’s an oil based polyurethane you can thin it with mineral spirits or paint thinner. I usually do 1-1 for wipe on. 3-1 for brush on. The wipe on is a little thinner. I have another video about epoxy and polyurethane and I go over the mixing for brushing it on in that video. But the wipe on is nice and easy with a 1-1 ratio. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! Right On! 🙌
Great vid I followed along and bought those pads. Hey question - opinion on using the much cheaper polycrylic topcoat instead of the wipe on poly ? It’s like 1/3 the price and seems to do same/similar job? Appreciate you! 🫶🏻
Right On Grant! This was from a local friends property here in WA state. I’m not quite sure where to source other than contacting smaller saw mill operations. 🪵🙌👍
Hi Brendan! Anywhere between 180 and 500 for these tables but the sky is the limit. It all depends on how closely you will look at the scratches in the table. I made another video about doing a gloss finish. When you get to 320 grit paper it’s nice to sand with some water. It helps keeping the paper from clogging up with little dots of epoxy dust. These dots make swirl patterns on the table top. Take it to 320 and then throw on a coat of wipe on poly then look at it and see if you can live with it. If not sand some more with higher grits. It’s also good to look at the table after each grit to make sure all the scratches from the previous grit are gone. It’s also a tricky balance to not sand too much off the surface and burn through to the wood. Try and find the happy medium. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and the good question. Right On! 🙌- Jon
@RightOnJonCrane we recently tried this with an 8 ft piece of redwood. 5 days after the first coat application there are still a couple tacky areas. Is it safe to sand the tacky areas or is there a way we can solidify the areas that are still tacky. Thanks in advance.
Hi Tara, unfortunately if it is still tacky it most likely was not mixed enough. I have had it happen myself and it’s not fun. In my case I scraped and sanded till I got down to bare wood. It’s not that bad to do with a 6 inch random orbit sander. I start with 40 or 60 grit until the epoxy is gone then work back up through the grits. Best case is to use a mixing paddle on the drill. Mix slow as to not incorporate a lot of bubbles which is hard to do. The bubbles pop a little easier if the epoxy is warm. Sorry this happened but not the end of the world. When I sand off the old epoxy I go through a lot of sanding discs. Like a dozen. I buy it off Amazon. So much cheaper than Home Depot. 100 discs for $20. Hope this helps. Sending my best!
@@taralink7064 It could be just the tacky spots. Sometimes when you pour the epoxy on and when you scrape the sides of the cup to get everything out, that is where the unmixed epoxy is. You could try just the tacky spots but other spots might show later. Depends on how nice of a table? If it’s something you want for a lifetime then sand it all, if it’s a crafts table then give it a whirl! Hope it comes out great for you!
right arm, txs for sharing...what happen to the trailer series? how soon can we sample the pizza at the new outlet and as usual, how is the foreman doing
Hi! 👋 That’s a good question! Looking back now I think because there was another section missing and it seemed to flow well with the piece to leave it out. I think it was difficult to match the bark nicely to the contours of the other missing section.
I'm finishing up a tree stump table and I have enjoyed watching your process, thank you. 3M thanks you too $1,800 later for the PAPR but I really appreciate you introducing it to me! I am curious why you don't just leave the epoxy resin top as final coat. Why the wipe on poly?
Sometimes I send in some stainless narrow crown staples through the bark if it looks like it is not attached well. Nice to get some epoxy to seep in before stapling. For the most part on this redwood the bark is well attached. 👍🙌
Right On! 🙌Thanks for watching! Yes, absolutely that would work great! One that base coat of epoxy is down and the grain is sealed you can put some wipe on finish!
I love wiping on poly (but I dilute it myself, IF I even dilute it). But Im building an alder table and I would like to have made it the wood a bit "harder", but didn't want to spray on 2k. In hindsight, I'm wondering if its possible to "wipe on" epoxy so that it doesn't build on top of the wood, but rather soaks in the grain like a nice oil wax finish such as Odies or Rubio's or like a few light coats of poly wiped on? That way you get the wiped on look with the durability of epoxy.
I would for sure let the wood dry to prevent cracking down the road. These rounds were air drying for 5 years. A couple of these went to Arizona and they still split but it’s so dry down there. Thanks for watching!
How much resin did you use for this project. How many layers top & bottom. I realise it depends on how thirsty the timber is but a rough idea would be great, thank you. I’m hoping to save a lump in my shed that’s being threaten to burn lol 😂
I recently poured a flood coat of epoxy over a nautical chart on the salon table from my boat. Looks great and crystal clear, but since epoxy isn’t UV protected, I was planning to applying gloss polyurethane. All though the table is inside the boat, it will still be exposed to the sun at times. Will my map remain crystal clear if I apply glossy polyurethane?
i work the same finish ,but i cant get out the small fine scratches or wipe marks ,i used very grit sanding before poly ,1500,2000,2500,3000,even those grits the wood keep showing marks ,im getting crazy with this cookie slab ,i worked in circular motion,steight motion ,and nothing seems to work out with those fine lines and wipe marks .,in fact i have been working on this table like 2 weeks and every finish show the lines ,i have to sand again and reaply the poly and on and again ,im thinking in get an axe and turn the dahmer mode
Hi! Thanks for watching 🙌✨ Sometimes it depends on the sander. Different sanders can leave different patterns. It’s good to change the paper often. One thing to try is using soap and water when sanding. That can help. Another is to wet sand with the wipe on poly. Hope that helps!
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Super AWESOME job Jon. It looks amazing. I loved your process lots of work but results show the effort is worth it. Thank you for sharing.
Right On Randy!!
@RightOnJonCrane we recently tried this with an 8 ft piece of redwood. 5 days after the first coat application there are still a couple tacky areas. Is it safe to sand the tacky areas or is there a way we can solidify the areas that are still tacky. Thanks in advance.
That's a beautiful slab of tree!! Nicely done Bud, entertaining and informative as always!!☻
Right On Roadking!! 👍🙌✨ Thank Ye Kindly!
Wow what a beautiful piece of wood! You did an amazing job! Thanks for the video.
such a pro it’s insane. miss ya John-!
Right On Jake!! Sending my best to you and the fam!!
Looks amazing Jon. Thanks for taking us on this journey :-)
Right On Terry!! 👍🙌
Beautiful work brother! Love that finish look.
Absolutely Beautiful work❤️
Right On! 🙌 Thanks Kimberly!
These videos are quite amazing and I can't imagine how much production time goes into them. Great flow, super interesting and entertaining. Gorgeous artistry all around. Loving your channel!
Great video. Helpful. I like your style! Excellent choice of music too. Thanks!
Hey Jon, Fantastic method! I just poured the 1/8th finish coat on a pecan burl moments ago. I sure wish I had seen your video on this process before hand. The dust is just awful. I have more work ahead of me now to fix the problem. I will definitely be utilizing your technique on my next piece. Thank you for sharing! JC
Right On! 🙌 I’m sure that pecan burl is looking amazing!!
I liked it with the piece you cut out.... looked like Taylor Ham!
Ha! That’s awesome 👏
That was fantastic! I always learn so much!
Right on Tom! 👍🙌 thank Ye kindly!!
It just amazing me how it goes from the sanded look to the clear...sanded it just looks ruined... and then..bam..its crystal clear....
I have those sanding pads as well.. they work great! The slab looks fantastic!! Enjoyed the seeing this process and especially the up close shot of that awesome beer light🤠👍 thank ya Mr. Jon!
Right on Big Vic!! Always a pleasure to see your comments here!! 👍🙌
Right on Jon! That looks killer 👍
Beautiful! 👍
Hi Jon ☺ thanks for another great video mate, you certainly put the effort in to achieve that stunning finish, well done. Someone is going to be very proud to have a table made from those slabs, this has been an eye opener my friend, keep right on whith these super videos, hope your all doing well, stay safe, best wishe's to all, Stuart Uk.
Great looking! Excellent work. Thanks for the look.
Thanks John!! 👍🙌
Amazing, I was stacked with an end grain slab that a customer never finished, quite a project.. testing everywhere.. I didn't know how to finish.. this is the way. Thank you.
P.S: no shake polyurethane ;)
Beyond Beautiful!
That is an amazing table
John, really enjoyed this video. I've been looking for a finish process on a very big heavy pine table I made. I don't like the plastic look either. Wipe on poly discolored the "blue pine" to a greenish mold look! I've ordered the material you used and will be testing your process out. Thanks for sharing.
What grit did you sand too before applying the wipe on poly? And was this done with the yellowing sanding block I couldn’t tell what grit you used? Thanks.
Top job!
You might consider using a lower viscosity sanding sealer and white glue to start with. The white glue will settle lower into the wider cracks and the sanding sealer will take care of the rest. Both products dry clear. The sanding sealer can also be applied via a sprayer, which would be great against the bark. At this point, you’d be able to use your wipe on poly first, followed by a thin coat of epoxy. Most of your sanding would be at first.
This is one of those rare videos I wish I could like multiple times. I have some rounds and I've never done epoxy before this is exactly what I needed.
Did you progress up in your grit as you sanded?
I got two words for you...
HOME RUN...just nature at its best...
two questions...does it scratch easy and if it does get scratched can you just put another top coat on...
just beautiful👍👍👍
After the epoxy sets up it takes a couple weeks for it to fully harden. It is very durable and yes you can put a coat of wipe on poly at any time! Can also lightly sand with scotch bright and then put on wipe on poly. I think it’s a great system.
nice, thank you
Hint: Use vinegar instead of acetone for clean up. Vinegar removes the stickiness off your hands if you get it on you. Old boat builder trick.
Right On! 🙌 I’ll give that a try! I’m all for less toxic alternatives! Thanks!
Literally the only the thing that worked for me was vinegar and oil. Who would've thought freakin salad dressing lol
Beautiful table. Roy "wood" not have used power tools or a mask. LOL I use to like the The Woodwright's Shop. I remember one episode and could not help notice he had band aides on most his fingers. By the end of most shows sweet pouring down his forehead. Thanks for the video.
Good job
I agree the hand rubbed poly does look better, simply beautiful !! So what do you do for the legs ?
Right On Matt!! The customer did not request legs. But I might make some for him down the road. 👍🙌
Awesome video! I just got a huge white oak cookie that I look forward to doing this in about three years but not sure what to do with it to hopefully keep the bark on and prevent as much cracking as possible. I know the cracking is inevitable but if I can mitigate that it would be nice. Any recommendations? It will probably live in a shed for the indefinite future and I will check to make sure there is no mold or whatever. Any advice is very helpful! Thanks
Beautiful job Jon...watch out for loose bristles when you use chip brushes. I pluck mine to try and get all the loose ones out before..
Awesome video. im working on a very similar project.. I have a poly soft gloss finish.. it is not wipe on.. this still ok Right On Jon Crane?
Yes, if it’s an oil based polyurethane you can thin it with mineral spirits or paint thinner. I usually do 1-1 for wipe on. 3-1 for brush on. The wipe on is a little thinner. I have another video about epoxy and polyurethane and I go over the mixing for brushing it on in that video. But the wipe on is nice and easy with a 1-1 ratio. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! Right On! 🙌
Great vid I followed along and bought those pads.
Hey question - opinion on using the much cheaper polycrylic topcoat instead of the wipe on poly ? It’s like 1/3 the price and seems to do same/similar job? Appreciate you! 🫶🏻
Jon looks good , my old question How does th wipe on poly react to an exterior application.
Right On! 👍 Thanks. The wipe on poly will work outside but you have to make your own. 50/50 mixture of Outdoor Polyurethane and Mineral Spirits.
Very beautiful chunk of wood. Thanks for walking us through your process and sharing your projects! Where can you source a piece of wood like this?
Right On Grant! This was from a local friends property here in WA state. I’m not quite sure where to source other than contacting smaller saw mill operations. 🪵🙌👍
Hey Jon, really enjoyed the video. Question for you. What sanding grit did you use before applying the poly? Thanks much!
Hi Brendan! Anywhere between 180 and 500 for these tables but the sky is the limit. It all depends on how closely you will look at the scratches in the table. I made another video about doing a gloss finish. When you get to 320 grit paper it’s nice to sand with some water. It helps keeping the paper from clogging up with little dots of epoxy dust. These dots make swirl patterns on the table top. Take it to 320 and then throw on a coat of wipe on poly then look at it and see if you can live with it. If not sand some more with higher grits. It’s also good to look at the table after each grit to make sure all the scratches from the previous grit are gone. It’s also a tricky balance to not sand too much off the surface and burn through to the wood. Try and find the happy medium. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and the good question. Right On! 🙌- Jon
@@RightOnJonCrane thanks much!
Wow that ping pong table😳
Ain’t that something!!
@RightOnJonCrane we recently tried this with an 8 ft piece of redwood. 5 days after the first coat application there are still a couple tacky areas. Is it safe to sand the tacky areas or is there a way we can solidify the areas that are still tacky. Thanks in advance.
Hi Tara, unfortunately if it is still tacky it most likely was not mixed enough. I have had it happen myself and it’s not fun. In my case I scraped and sanded till I got down to bare wood. It’s not that bad to do with a 6 inch random orbit sander. I start with 40 or 60 grit until the epoxy is gone then work back up through the grits. Best case is to use a mixing paddle on the drill. Mix slow as to not incorporate a lot of bubbles which is hard to do. The bubbles pop a little easier if the epoxy is warm. Sorry this happened but not the end of the world. When I sand off the old epoxy I go through a lot of sanding discs. Like a dozen. I buy it off Amazon. So much cheaper than Home Depot. 100 discs for $20. Hope this helps. Sending my best!
@RightOnJonCrane ok. Thank you for the response! Can I just remove the tacky spots or do I have to do the entire thing all over again?
@@taralink7064 It could be just the tacky spots. Sometimes when you pour the epoxy on and when you scrape the sides of the cup to get everything out, that is where the unmixed epoxy is. You could try just the tacky spots but other spots might show later. Depends on how nice of a table? If it’s something you want for a lifetime then sand it all, if it’s a crafts table then give it a whirl! Hope it comes out great for you!
right arm, txs for sharing...what happen to the trailer series? how soon can we sample the pizza at the new outlet and as usual, how is the foreman doing
Right On Tom! The foreman is doing great!! Her favorite spot is in the shop! I just started back on the airstream this week so new videos soon!! 👍🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane tanks for the update(s)
Question! Why did you not add in the BARK on the repaired wedge to match? You had a sacrificial cookie to use. Just wondering....
Hi! 👋 That’s a good question! Looking back now I think because there was another section missing and it seemed to flow well with the piece to leave it out. I think it was difficult to match the bark nicely to the contours of the other missing section.
I'm finishing up a tree stump table and I have enjoyed watching your process, thank you. 3M thanks you too $1,800 later for the PAPR but I really appreciate you introducing it to me! I am curious why you don't just leave the epoxy resin top as final coat. Why the wipe on poly?
Jon: Love your work. How would this process work if the table was exposed to an outside shaded porch ? Thanks jim
Can you clean the rollers with acetone for another use?
Extra deluxe...wow!
Right On Joe! 🙌👍 Thanks for the binge watching!! 😃🙌✨
Do you have any issue with the bark separating? I suppose the epoxy must help some.
Sometimes I send in some stainless narrow crown staples through the bark if it looks like it is not attached well. Nice to get some epoxy to seep in before stapling. For the most part on this redwood the bark is well attached. 👍🙌
Great looking table top! Question: Can the last two steps be done with just clear gloss wipe on poly?
Right On! 🙌Thanks for watching! Yes, absolutely that would work great! One that base coat of epoxy is down and the grain is sealed you can put some wipe on finish!
I love wiping on poly (but I dilute it myself, IF I even dilute it). But Im building an alder table and I would like to have made it the wood a bit "harder", but didn't want to spray on 2k. In hindsight, I'm wondering if its possible to "wipe on" epoxy so that it doesn't build on top of the wood, but rather soaks in the grain like a nice oil wax finish such as Odies or Rubio's or like a few light coats of poly wiped on? That way you get the wiped on look with the durability of epoxy.
Let me know where you get those fiberglass resin rollers. They seem to be hard to find here in SoCal
Hi Austin! I got those at West Marine. I know they have a store in Long Beach! Right at the marina.
@@RightOnJonCrane I’ll have to pick me up a pair then. Very nice video thank you!
can u do this on wet fresh cut wood
I would for sure let the wood dry to prevent cracking down the road. These rounds were air drying for 5 years. A couple of these went to Arizona and they still split but it’s so dry down there. Thanks for watching!
How many coats total of Epoxy did you use to seal the underside of the cookie?
Two coats on the bottom is best!
Jon, who did the great music?
@ 6:56 TotM! ❤
Right On Luke! 🙌✨ Roy just passing by to say hello! 👋🏻
How much resin did you use for this project. How many layers top & bottom. I realise it depends on how thirsty the timber is but a rough idea would be great, thank you. I’m hoping to save a lump in my shed that’s being threaten to burn lol 😂
What grit you used to sand the epoxy
I used 220 but you can work up to 350 or even higher for the final sand. Sometimes I go up to 1500 depending on the project.
Were do you buy the different grits of paper
I recently poured a flood coat of epoxy over a nautical chart on the salon table from my boat. Looks great and crystal clear, but since epoxy isn’t UV protected, I was planning to applying gloss polyurethane. All though the table is inside the boat, it will still be exposed to the sun at times. Will my map remain crystal clear if I apply glossy polyurethane?
It absolutely should, just like this table did with the poly applied
i work the same finish ,but i cant get out the small fine scratches or wipe marks ,i used very grit sanding before poly ,1500,2000,2500,3000,even those grits the wood keep showing marks ,im getting crazy with this cookie slab ,i worked in circular motion,steight motion ,and nothing seems to work out with those fine lines and wipe marks .,in fact i have been working on this table like 2 weeks and every finish show the lines ,i have to sand again and reaply the poly and on and again ,im thinking in get an axe and turn the dahmer mode
Hi! Thanks for watching 🙌✨ Sometimes it depends on the sander. Different sanders can leave different patterns. It’s good to change the paper often. One thing to try is using soap and water when sanding. That can help. Another is to wet sand with the wipe on poly.
Hope that helps!
@@RightOnJonCrane yes i gived it another try right now finish wet sanding an a first wipe on coat ..lets see how it end now ,thanks
I would like to see the legs that go on that table too
👏👏👏
I'm kinda disappointed, I saw that thumbnail and thought it was a Big Ole Pizza.
Needs pepperoni 🍕!!
Amazing..but riweh ber ulang-ulang
Gorgeous!