I used to use only AMD. My last one was the Opteron 165. After that I went Intel and never looked back. First was a Core 2 Duo, then a Core 2 Quad, then various Core i7 from the 4770K to now the 13600K. Never had a single issue with Intel. Had plenty with AMD.
@@the12gaugeshotty Well things have changed, AMD has gotten way better while Intel has been going down into the dumps. You can pretty much say bye-bye to your 13600K lol.
@@the12gaugeshotty I used to use only Intel, now that Intel suck I only use AMD. I've never had any issues with AMD. Intel is so bad, so behind in technology. They're still stuck on 10nm while AMD is on 4. Intel is worth way less than AMD for a good reason, and it's definitely not their GPUs.
I'm on day 12 of my 13900k RMA, intel initially agreed to swap my CPU out but I asked for a full refund because they knowingly sold me a defective CPU (confirmed by Batch#) and I haven't heard back. That was 6 days ago. Do not buy Intel guys, they're out here selling defective CPUs and trying to trade you for a (possibly) defective replacement
Mine was approved but then they found out it was delidded. Even worse? Cinebench R23 ST score is 2200 and MT is 18k. It used to be 40k-42k. Ridiculous.
@@innopriest man that's so rough, that's why I didn't delid mine when I was troubleshooting the crashes etc. I feel for you though man, that really sucks.
@@mehck-gk9ynwell, it's convenient - make the thermal interface between the die and the ihs crappy, so that people want to delid then for good performance; if sh*t happens for whichever reason, they're out of luck and you saved on RMA. Great plan on Intel's side
I'll be exchanging my CPU and mobo as soon as the new x3d chips hit shelves. Big respect to microcenter for not being dicks about their warranty. They're well aware of Intel's fuckery and have assured me that I can bring in my 13th gen stuff whenever I want. Mad respect to microcenter. Intel you can get fucked.
Is your unit somehow even effected? You may not pass warranty inspection cous'. This is an over-inflated problem while also much much more complex then "the tech RUclipsrs" are capable of handling adequately mate...
@@phantomtec Point is, you don't know if the problem is there, or not. Or if the fix will fix it completely, or not. Or if the oxidation issue is there, or not. So it's def safer to get rid of this potential ticking bomb, which could easily die outside of warranty even with the microcode fix and proper voltage limits set. Had there been a warranty extension it would have been a maybe, without such it's a definite heck no.
@@phantomtec A known 10-25% failure rate at the big OEM houses is "over-inflated"? We are talking millions of bad units, many of which Intel KNEW were defective but neglected to tell anyone about, and rejected RMAs from anyway. Intel has been lying to everyone for months, blaming their customers and board partners for issues they KNEW were legit and caused on the production line. We can't trust a single word they say at this point about this issue, period. It's as simple as this: if you have a 13xxx or 14xxx K-SKU CPU, you have a good chance of being affected eventually, no matter how much Intel claims they have "found the issue". If you have the option to get out of this, then do it. Don't listen to fanboys who handwave the facts of this issue away.
Per the dust, I have multiple cats and I will say that air purifiers/filters do make a difference. But ultimately, you have to stay on top of the sweeping or vacuuming, Make it a nightly chore before you go to bed.
If you have to dust your computer every night, seems like you have too many pets, even 3-4 cats should not cause a build up daily. Perhaps weekly. Either way try to get a case with filters and have air flow set up properly and you only have to pull those filters and clean with water quickly.
Regarding dust: If you have central air/heating, check your air filter and consider a higher MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values) filter. Check and see if you can find an allergy-rated filter that fits your equipment. *MOST* air handlers accept up to a MERV rating of 11, though there are filters that go beyond that and air handlers that accommodate the higher rating. A MERV rating of 5 is generally the minimum value to protect the ducts and equipment from excessive dust, doing little to help air quality. If you're unsure, just find the model number of your air handler and the manual is likely online and should explicitly state the recommended MERV rating range. (The value is basically a measurement of how effective the filter is at removing particulates from the air.) And, obviously... general air cleaning filtered fans are an option. It seems quite strange to focus on your PC when your entire house is affected by dust.
If he isn't willing to spend a lot of money, a box fan can be used along with a 20 x 20 inch air filter. Costco sold either the 2200 or 2500 rated air filters at the 20x20 inch size. Lean the air filter on the air intake side of the fan and that will filter out a lot of dust, pollen, and ultra fine dander (skin cells) floating in the air.
Linus is still butthurt over GN calling him out last year. It hurt his feelings, so don't expect any mention from him. He has a bad personality combo, incredibly arrogant but extremely emotionally sensitive
To prevent dust accumulating, one solution is to get industry dust filter fabric (they come in huge blankets) and give up fancy case window, then seal the box with the filter best as you can from all six sides. Only prevents dust, not airflow. Can be applied to most cases capable good cable management.
Been rockin’ Intel CPUs since the 286 debut in the ‘80s on thru 386, 486, Pentiums (reg, MMX, Pro, II, III, IV), Core 2 Quad, until 2020 when gifted a 11700k. Somewhere in the midst of there I strayed off trail with a couple Athlons, but not impressed. Yet in 2020 I went AMD and may ride that for some time onward. Clam happy.
the thing that confuses me is that the 13th gen has been out for quite a while, and we didn't hear anything of these issues until near the end of the 14th gen lifespan. i mean not in the forums or any comparison videos or anything. not from any Tech tubers either. no reports from streamers getting hard crashes in games... why did this suddenly happen to both the 13th and 14th gen at the same time even though they released about a year apart? i guess i just feel like im not getting all of the information.
@@tresnugget i havent seen any of the tech tube guys say anything about their systems crashing or any other unstable issues. if this is supposed to be 100% of the processors doing this, i would figure theirs would have been affected, and they would have jumped on the issue just for the views. if its not 100%, how many are affected? at this point, ive heard that it was mobo manufacturers pushing the cpu too hard, that the micro code wasnt right and that there is an oxidation issue with them. what exactly is the issue, or dont they know for sure?
Thanks for hosting my comment in this probing paul segment. I agree with watching @BadSeed Tech and seeing what he has to say. But all in all, just glad my comment finally got picked! Thanks Paul.
AMD is the only one reporting the typo, no one that received them noticed a typo. Who doesn't look at their CPU first to see if they got the right one? I call BS on the typo excuse.
@@freedomearthmoon1The problem was with the motherboard manufacturers, not with AMD. But there were problems with AM4 at the start as well. I have an AM4 motherboard, an ASUS X570-P and had it blast my CPU with excessive voltage. A bios update fixed the problem. I upgraded to a 5700x3d a few weeks ago and don’t expect to upgrade for a few years.
@@richardbeckenbaugh1805 Intel blames the motherboard manufactures for 13th and 14th gen. Not taking responsibility for bad silicon and bad information is a cop out.
I really hope Intel can turn things around because we've experienced a CPU monopoly already, and I have no desire to see another, even if the shoe would be on the other foot.
We need to compel Intel to hand out more x86 licenses. AMD is able to produce x86 CPUs because IBM told Intel "we require second-sourcing agreements on any chip we choose for our Personal Computer project" and then, later, Intel and AMD wound up in "you can't sue me and I can't sue you" patent cross-licensing agreements after Intel tried to play dirty. Same with Cyrix, who sold CPUs that were excellent budget options in the 90s but ended up choking when Quake figured out how to exploit the independence of the integer and floating--point pipelines in Intel and AMD designs for more performance. Cyrix ended up getting bought by National Semiconductor and then sold to VIA, which is how we got those low-power x86 chips in the thin clients people are now repurposing as tiny, fanless DOS/Windows 98/Windows XP retro-hobby PCs.
Intel isn't going anywhere. What I see as the most likely scenario here is they halt the sale of LGA1700 (they should have done this already, but hey... there are still suckers out there who don't follow the tech news) once Arrow Lake launches, hoard the existing inventory for RMA replacements and just wait for the news to die down. The real problem here is that we don't know for sure that what they're doing is going to actually fix the issue, and it will be MONTHS after you get a new replacement to see if the problem recurs. By that time the entire story will be old news and they'll treat you like the empty bag of money they already got out of you and give you the finger and show you the door with their foot.
I upgraded from my 12700K to my current 13700K on my Z690 DDR4 motherboard last November. One thing I did day one is apply a 75mV undervolt to my CPU to reduce power consumption. Haven't had any problems.
For the person asking about audio. If you're mainly going to be running speakers with no headphones then go for powered speakers. At the higher end the KEF LSX II LT at $899. At the more affordable end the Elac Debut Connex at $499. Both come with plenty of bells and whistles and E-Arc as well, I believe. If you want to go passive speakers you will need to do a lot more research on the speakers you want, the DAC/AMP/Pre-amp and make sure the speaker amp has enough power to run them well. Powered speakers make your decision a lot easier, especially if you're new to the audio enthusiast hobby.
I don't know If I'm sinner but I use MB audio for Genelec G2 + F1 set :D I have lived the era when we needed sound cards but now MB audio quality is far better and some motherboard manufacturers even show with led lighting that audio portion is separated from other part of motherboard for signal integrity. Pre-amp maybe nice to have then you can use better signal level from motherboard audio. I have F1 set to about 50% volume. Also those usb dacs are usually dac + pre-amp. Also new active speakers start to have optical/digital interface in sub that then give signal to monitors. New revision of my Genelec F1 sub has also optical and coaxial input.
That's a lot of money wasted. A pair of Kali LP6's is all anyone needs for high quality flat monitors. If for whatever reason you don't want a flat response curve then that's a massive red flag in audio quality, so any stereo desktop speakers can do that.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. Are you fine with Spotify and your music collection is mainly mp3s, I am going to say no. If you want to dip your feet into the audio enthusiast rabbit hole with things like Tidal and Qobuz then yes. They are powered speakers with a 20amp A/B amp built in, so you don't have to worry about a speaker amp, so something like ifi Uno DAC/Amp, or the JDS Labs Atom 2 Bundle. This gives you the ability to run your speakers and the ability to plug in a nice easy to drive set of headphones.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. If you mainly just use Spotify and Mp3s then I would say no. If you want to dip your feet into the audio rabbit hole then something like the ifi Uno or the JDS Labs Atom Stack 2 Bundel. This allows you to run your speakers since it has its own 20w A/B amp, and give you the ability to plug in some easy to drive headphones as well.
6:34 dust filters are only of interest on air intakes into the case. Anywhere you have a fan blowing out you shouldn't have a filter. Also count the fans on in and out ports. It's common that one of these are in the majority. So if you have more fans blowing air out of the case than in then you have a negative pressure inside the case. This assumes that the fans are the same and are all running at the same speed. The most common suggestion is to make sure you have more fans blowing into the case than out. This way you get a positive air pressure and all, or at least close to it, air will pass the intake fans and the filters on these. If you have a negative pressure, more fans blowing out than in, air will take any way it can find into the case. All the small holes and openings will be ones that doesn't have a filter and dust will make it's way into the case. This is just basic design ideas as fans on a radiator will have to press air through the radiator. Same with air filter. They will make the fans work harder to get the air through the filter. So just counting fans in and out doesn't necessarily provide the correct answer. You have to figure out if you have positive or negative pressure in the case. I would say that if you can you want to have positive pressure, but it all depends on the case and how many fans are installed. A common design is to ha air going in the front and if possible the bottom. Again this depends on the case used. Then you blow air out the top and the back.
🎯 Key points for quick navigation: 00:00:05 *🔄 AMD Ryzen 9000 CPU benchmarks delayed; speculation on launch issues.* 00:00:29 *⌨️ Sponsor plug for Corsair K65 Plus Wireless RGB keyboard.* 00:00:55 *📅 Episode 88 of "Probing Paul"; questions and answers from viewers.* 00:01:52 *⚠️ Intel Raptor Lake CPUs experiencing high failure rates due to high voltages and oxidation.* 00:03:14 *💡 Advice on RAM configuration: prefer 2x 64GB kits over 4x 32GB kits.* 00:03:41 *💻 Recommendation to switch to AMD CPUs for new builds, specifically the 7800X3D or 7950X3D.* 00:04:35 *💸 Intel 12900K suggested as a cost-effective alternative for Intel enthusiasts.* 00:05:29 *🔄 Importance of updating BIOS for 13th/14th gen Intel CPUs to mitigate issues.* 00:06:22 *🧹 Suggestions to manage dust in PCs: use air purifiers and clean filters regularly.* 00:09:05 *🖥️ Advice on mini PCs for non-gaming use; mentions Zotac, GMK Tech, and Beelink.* 00:11:27 *🎧 External USB DAC recommended over internal sound cards for better audio quality.* 00:13:48 *🛍️ Reminder to check out Paul's Hardware store and subscribe for future content.* Made with HARPA AI
Techtubers need to be more clear about the intel problem. If you have 14th gen and you lock cores and set voltages to safe levels right out of the box, the overvolting VID problem DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU . A bios update does nothing for the oxidation problem which intel has stated only applies to 13th gen. It simply nurfs the CPU which will fail prematurely no matter what.
Am an Intel owner, am baffled they havent put a hold on sales for the chip, as like you said the info they released isnt exactly reassuring, and I think your advice to those Intel builders on swapping the board for AMD (or if has to be Intel get a 12900k) is solid. For reference my chip is stable, but of course due to lack of info on batch numbers etc., I dont know if my CPU is already on its way to failing.
Ok! I hope you can answer this tech question and maybe you've never been asked this before, but..., I need a 280/240 AIO with the pump in the radiator. I know they make them but the only one that I'm aware of is the Hyte Q60 Thick, for $300. I'm considering it, but so far, a search hasn't returned many other results. I'm hoping that you are aware of more. I prefer a 280, (which the Hyte doesn't have) & a 240 might work, but I plan on fitting it inside the front of a modded Corsair 760T case and this case is large. I'm afraid that a 240 would look out of size, especially viewed from the front through a wood carved grill. Due to the case modding, the front now has a Hobbit Home where the top drive bays were, and a CPU pump puts any front mounted radiator below the CPU. Presently, I'm running a Corsair Capelexe Elite 280 in the top, but I have plans for the top to include Hobbit Carvings in wood, along with the modded wood carved side panels to complete the theme. This means that the top mounted AIO will have to go.
For Intel users: 1) Make sure your Intel CPU is running latest BIOS, and watt limited to 253w unless you know how to undervolt. Then head to my channel and see step by step. 2) Wait. Use your computer. 3) IF your CPU fails, make sure you used Intel's profiles and RMA the chip 4) I am on my second 13900k, and I know how to prevent voltage degradation, but silicon quality is something I do not control. My first chip was undervolted and still failed. But it was watt limited to 300 watts, new chip is 262 watts limited and did not fail. Trial and error.
IMO this is exactly why I don't rely on their service to notify me. The function has been faulty for years off and on. That's why I go directly to my subscriber feed and check myself every day when I have time. Though I get not everyone has the time or dedication to do that.
One of the major contributors to Dust is dead skin flakes. So a Bedroom is more likely to build up dust than other parts of the house. What you want to do is setup a system to pull air out of your room through a dust filter, and simultaneously push fresh air into your room, also through a Dust Filter, if you are experiencing a large amount of dust. I actually have a Return Vent in my room connected to the return ventilation in my house, and of course both Inflow and Outflow from the HVAC are filtered and changed twice a year when possible/remembered. But anyways my dad figured this out in the 90s and setup a return vent in my brother's new room, and I just got to benefit years later.
If some people want an Intel system. I recommend waiting to buy one between mid-September and November after Intel and other organizations test to see if the microcode update helped.
If you want to be serious about cleaning your gizmos, I suggest the following kit: 1. Stop wasting $ on canned air. Get a cheap, tiny $50 air compressor from Harbor and use lowest pressure. 2. Paint brush & Q-Tips, Pipe Cleaners. 3. 98% Isopropyl alcohol. Because you need to break the static cling to all your bits, and dry wiping can INCREASE the charge. Alcohol wiping breaks the cling. And don't forget to hit the BACK of your fanblades with a liquored up Q Tip to break cling and regain airflow, otherwise it just turns into a dirt clod again that delivers no pressure. Edit: I have a 5000d Airflow housing my daily driver pc, and despite so many wonderful easy-clean filters, it still needs this treatment every season on the inside.
One thing you didn't mention is that if your PC is on or near the floor, get it up! My old PC was on the floor AND near a window and the dust build up was brutal. Now it's setup ABOVE my desk, around head height, and it's insanely better. I clean it out once a year, and even then there's barely anything to blow out.
About the entry level mini PCs I have worked with a ton of HP ProDesk/EliteDesk Mini PCs, and can highly recommend them, they have socketed desktop-class CPUs, socketed SODIMM ram with an extra slot for upgrades, an M.2 slot for storage, pretty solid IO, and easy to open and work on with only a few screws. (although no GPU options, at least not the office systems I've worked with)
While they will get the job done for most tasks, I'd still steer people away from most mini PCs. They're almost all mobile CPUs and limited compared to their desktop counterparts. They're not socketed, so you're stuck with the CPU you initially got, their RAM is limited, as are other areas of expansion. A lower end PC build however, done right can grow with you and become a gaming PC at some point by dropping in a GPU. That would be a nice build to see - no bling, no RGB (which I know is what makes up most B-roll these days). just clean cable management and performane.
Instead of getting a cheap new mini PC I'd rather buy a used Dell or HP micro PC. I have a dell 7060M and it has socketed ram and a socketed CPU. Plus a hard drive tray to add a 2nd drive. For $100 on eBay you get so much more computer. I'll take my 8th gen Intel i5 over some new Celeron or ultra low voltage chip.
oh ya they're busy with my RMA that I started 12 days ago and haven't heard anything back from in 6 days. BACK OF THE LINE! Jk sucks bro we're in this together! SCREW INTEL FOR LIFE
they want it to be so hard to rma that you consider not to - its corporate strategy -support is like this nowadays -if it easy you are a scammer or cheater
Sorry for all the people that are going through the issues with thier Intel chips, it's a horrible thing. I wish you the best of luck with RMA's. But if your starting a build now just go with AMD. I just upgraded my AMD 5900x rig with a 7800x3d from microcenter in a custom combo deal for just over $500 (MB,CPU & RAM). The 7800x3d in the combo was $224, I could not pass that up. Great video Paul and stay well.
Re dust buildup... one of my wife's friends asked: "I was told to clean the dust off of my PC's vents. What do I do with the felt pads? Can I wash them?" 😱
You're using FELT pads as filters? A better choice for home-made dust filter is to stretch female hosiery fabric over the filter frame. What I use at home is an air filter. Air purifiers are expensive, so if you are DIY, you can simply get a box fan and use those 3M air filters (rated 2200 or 2500) at Costco. Lean that filter on the intake side of the box fan and the air pressure will suck the air filter up against the box fan. That will reduce the dust in your home's air.
My year-old i9-13900KF system has been [apparently] running fine, but Cyberpunk 2077 started to persistently crash on opening in the last few months. To make a long story short, I updated the BIOS [June '24 release] on my MSI Z790 motherboard and that solved my Cyberpunk problem. I'll be watching for the promised August BIOS/microcode release and see it I need it. I'll probably install it if it seems advisable.
So . . . I guess Zen4 prices won't be dropping when Zen5 launches after all. And Zen5 prices will be $50 per SKU higher across the board. Thanks Intel.
I pay GLADLY $50 more for a good system ! I might go for an AM4 with an 7700x or all out with an AM5, with an 8700X3D . #AMDjustRULES The HELL with Intel & ASUS !
@@mehck-gk9ynat those temperatures it wouldn't surprise me if it lasts a lot longer than that. Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs
@@tylerweston6358 >Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs I'm gonna find out! She's going until failure however many years it takes.
Oh! A recommendation for a sleeper hit in the audio space - there's a CA company called "Schitt Audio" that makes really great stuff. They have an entry level DAC/Amplifier called the "Fulla" for ~200$ I bought one with some Sennheiser cans, and it's like buttah. Hardware Canucks reviewed it a couple years back.
For your lighting note.... his lighting isn't really that great, its functional and does a very nice job, but so does yours. BUT.... there's a rule in cinematography that you could use to 'tweak'? maybe? you NEVER point the camera at the lighted side of the face and your light is coming from the right and your camera is slightly moved to the right also... maybe move the light to the other side? :)
I agree Paul too many people see the DIY PC space as obligatory, when not everyone has the capacity to build and fully support a PC maintenance wise. There's no shame in getting a prebuilt, laptop, or a bare bones box to do what you need. Especially if the user is needing a web browser and video watching system. Not everyone is a techie like I am that enjoys being in the weeds of the DIY space. And sometimes people have a family and lose out on the time to work on stuff. Again that's fine.
A great (if depressing) way to save money on audiophile gear is to first check your hearing. You can download hearing test apps that play sounds of increasing frequency. When you can't hear them anymore, that's your limit. Once I realized that years of listening to loud music had destroyed my ability to hear anything above about 7khz, I stopped pretending to be an audiophile and accepted I was wasting my money on top-end gear.
I highly recommend the BLUEAIR Blue Pure 211+ (square block shape) for an air purifier. It's expensive, but it does a fantastic job. The smaller and cheaper 411 (cylinder shape) is a great alternative if the 211+ is too pricey. These filters do an excellent job of sucking up a lot of dust; my computer goes months with hardly any dust gathering. Both models are designed to run continuously, and I recommend you do that. They run exceptionally quietly.
The last Intel cpu I had was the i5 4460 and didn’t gave me any problems. After that I had an amd Ryzen 3700+ and had some memory problems. Most of the memory problems were gone when I changed to an amd 5800X. Since then I use a mini-pc. About the Intel 13th and 14th gen cpu’s, Intel extended their warranty for two years, it’s going in the right direction. And about the internal or external sound card vs motherboard sound, for the longest time I have used an internal sound blaster audígy 2 and it sounds much better than onboard sound, especially if you have good speakers. Thanks Paul for all your videos.
to prevent dust intake which I pretty much eliminated, only ultra fine dust remains 1-my tower is above my desk on an ikea Alex 9 drawers unit (45+ inches high) 2-have filters on all intakes 3-using icue or whatever you control your fans with try to achieve 50-50 intake-exhaust airflow this prevents your PC from becoming a vacuum cleaner but the important part is the PC being high you can buy DEMCiflex filter kits depending on your case model they won't have a nice look (they are floppy like textile almost and cave in or out depending on airflow direction) and they do limit airflow but are super fine and prevent visible dust from entering your case, since I'm liquid cooled I only lost like 2°C but it depends on your config
Make sure the following wording (or something like it) appears on the BIOS update: "Updated with microcode 0x125 to ensure eTVB operates within Intel specifications" That's from the ROG MAXIMUS Z790 DARK HERO BIOS 1402. Intel said they are releasing the final or full patch mid-August.
For an everyday non-gaming PC, nothing beats a business class laptop! I myself love X-series Thinkpads, and my EDC has been an X230 for years. When I dock it at my TV (not 4K) I have a capable HTPC, when I dock it at my desk I have a multi-monitor workstation with a full sized keyboard and mouse ready to go, and when I throw it in my backpack it is always fully charged and a capable companion PC on the go. I would pick up a used X280 to get 4K and Windows 11 compatibility if I were to buy a new setup today though.
Paul if you want any help if your lighting it’d be an honor to lend a hand you’ve helped me learn so much it’s the least I can do (and probably even help with)
The best i7 and i9 users can do is to undervolt their CPU. I did mine out of the box, still works fine, and I've yet to see someone who undervolted theirs and it still turned into a brick.
That "dream build" was the typically comical: "I'll buy the most expensive, pointless, crap I can find since it _must_ be somehow better..."! Buddy, just get a nice case, a 13600k and a 4080 Super; save a few grand and go on vacation with some friends with the savings (you'll be a better human for it). It's amazing how some people think that irrelevant, unnoticeable, items ("premium" motherboards, grossly oversized power supplies, obscene amounts of RAM, ad nauseam) will make their PC experience somehow "better".
I tried to warn someone I know from Splurging on an Omen Prebuilt 14900KF system. They think that all the recent issues is just "RUclips Drama"... They want to learn the Hard Way I guess.
The ifi Zen Dac v2 is something I got based on Brian's video, it's been absolutely amazing. I ended up slowly climbing the audiophile ladder, bunch of schiit gear now, but I'm still going back to the Zen Dac as my balanced audio source half the time; It's just that good. And that analog 'x-bass' button is the musical equivalent to a crack dispenser.
I've spent a little time looking for ways to donate PC components, but I am having trouble finding a place that want them. Everywhere I've found wants a whole PC or just peripherals, not the individual components I have. Thanks, and I love the content.
Its nice to hear, around 11:24, that my purchase of a Schiit audio DAC was probably a good idea! Purchasers bias and all that. Now that you mention it, i might consider upgrading that DAC further :D. Ah, audiophile tech is such an expensive rabbit hole!
I'd point Richard Harrison to the 2nd hand market for a everyday non gaming build. You can pick up something for browsing the web for super cheap. Buy a 2nd hand office PC for like $100-200.
Pauls Hardware : you don't know squat about the RTX 4090-s PWR consumption. It needs at least a 1200 Watts PSU if it is coupled with an AMD CPU. But it needs at least a 1500 Watt CPU if it's paired with a Shintel Core i7 or i9. That's due to Shintels Nuclear PWR consumptions (and Nvidias own) and due to the fact that you cannot get 560 Watts of continuous PWR (with max peaks up to 641 Watts) for the GPU alone via a single 12V rail through 4 x 8-PCI-Ex connectors. It's just not how the PSU design is made. That PWR is distributed through 12V rails and multipliers or dividers on the 12V rails. The 1200 Watts PSU is just not gonna cut it for a Shintel-Nvidia build.
The real defect is inside the company. The exploding hardware is just the most visible symptom. That is a massive ship to turn around, but I hope they can do it. Massive layoffs including key managers will be a start.
Regarding the last question, I would still recommend an internal sound card such as the Asus Strix Raid or the Sound Blaster AE5 specifically for speakers. Reason being most affordable external DACs only have stereo outputs and lack 5.1 or 7.1 outputs. The other option, which is honestly the best, would be to get a receiver that supports Dolby Atmos and simply use one of your video card's HDMI ports to output sound that way.
I've got an i9-13900k on an MSI MPG Z790 motherboard. I've been running it since October of 2023 without any crashes or any issues. I updated the BIOS last week anyway, I hope I'm not going to have any problems....
Just my luck. Most of the prebuilts they sell in my country that had caught my interest had 13/14th gen Intel chips. No way in hell i'm buying any of them now. Raptor Lake is cursed.
Regarding basic computing: I go APU's for that. AMD has the best there, by far, and the latest 8000 series APU's are amazing. If you don't know, APU's are CPU's with exceptional built in graphics. And the upgrade path is as simple as adding a GPU down the road if you feel you need more power....but if you only have basic needs, than that really wont be needed. Excellent as always Paul, look forward to the next home update as well 😊
Dusty computers will stay dusty if you smoke around them. I build and fix computers on the side and smoker PCs are the worse. Components literally become sticky. If you want less dust in your PC, don't smoke around it and get a better vacuum and clean your carpets more often. A carpet cleaning vacuum is also recommended as it'll actually pull a lot more dirt out of your carpet with soap and water. My PC stays clean because of this. I built my current PC about 9 months ago and its still very clean inside.
I'm glad I decided to watch this particular probing! I had the same question about soundcard (like "do they even still make those") or external DAC. Maybe it's confirmation bias because I really, REALLY don't want to put anything between my GPU and bottom intake, but I'm happy I got an answer and a place to start looking. Thanks 👍
Re: dust issue Make sure your case has more intake than exhaust so that there's positive pressure inside the case, and all intake goes through filters. Also for the air purifier, find one with the cheapest replacement filters.
My pc setup I use an Audio Video receiver, Yamaha RX A2A with Klipsch 7.1 speakers. I use a display port from Video card to the receiver ( acts like a 2nd monitor/audio ).
i remember watching you on newegg talking about the gtx 600 series with kyle. those were the days… i have no idea how young i was but i was young, potentially 6th grade. ended up building a pc w r7 1700 and gtx1080 a few years later. nerding out over computer parts was fun what a time it was!
Hey Paul! Here is a question for the next episode: How important is it to check for Motherboard driver updates from the manufacturer's site? (BIOS, Chipset Drivers, LAN, etc)
The mini PC is a great solution, but you can also go with a Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 and do just about everything that was in that list. Less power, less noise, and less money in general.
Thank goodness, I have a R9 5900X. As for DAC's, I've been eyeing the iFi Zen Blue 3 Lossless DAC for the extra bluetooth connectivity. I currently have an EVGA NU-AUDIO sound card which is great. But since EVGA doesn't really make stuff anymore I can no longer get updated drivers for it. So a nice external DAC in the near future will be nice to have. The other nice thing about DACs is the expandability of them. You can either plug them directly into an external amp for hooking up speakers, a stereo receiver or headphone amp. I see iFi also offers a phono stage for those who want to hook up a turntable. :)
Hey Paul, great probing as always. Question... Now that the microcode is out for many motherboards, provided there hasn't been an isdue wirh your CPU, would you think its ok to overclock "K" chips again?
11:37 I agree with Paul. Even a high end mother board might have issues with microphone recording. So don't buy a pricier motherboard just for the audio. But when it comes to music audio then there will be a slight difference in clarity, I meant slight! Some might not notice it. I have a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XIII HERO, not latest and greatest, I had issues with audio having artifacts, for some reason only in web browsers. And as I mentioned there clarity will be better on an external audio interface, but if you do voice recording or 2ant to do video calls it's a must. I scored a Rode AI-1 on a great price, it was only tested and sent back, so got a nice deal, but this unit is already quite affordable. But even with Asio driver installed I can't get the volume loud enough for the mic. So I recommend EqualizerAPO If you have this issue. There you can adjust the gain to appropriate level. But maybe other interfaces exist with more gain.
Currently I'm waiting on Intel 15th Gen, Z890, CAMM2, and RTX 5000 for my upcoming build. I'll be going back to a desktop, an MATX build, to replace my Alienware Area 51m R1 laptop for my semi truck. Kinda sad Deepcool isn't available anymore, as I was interested in using their Assassin IV, as the performance looked good, and I liked the aesthetic it has. Guess I'll probably end up going with either Noctua or Be Quite instead. (Unless they manage to overturn the sanction in court) Overall in the long-term process of overhauling my entire setup in my truck. Doing so for better performance, easier upgradability/maintenance, and comfort. Going from a 17" screen to a 42" TV, and from 1080p to 4k will be a nice change. Already got my Case/chassis, keyboard, new mouse, DAC, and some other accessories sitting aside. Kinda waiting for CEDIA 2024 in September before I buy a TV, hoping Sony might release some updated models to the Bravia XR series A90k & A95L. (Or wait for a good discount on the A90k 42") ••• Also from my experience so far with this new USB DAC I picked up, the Creative Sound Blaster X5. It's been great with my my Audio Technica ATH WS1100 headphones. (Comparable to the M50X series) Big difference in sound depth, bass, and clarity versus just plugging them into the audio jack on my laptop. Also has good physical controls, the software is easy to use, and as a plus it also improved the sound quality on my Antlion Modmic 5. I'd certainly recommend it from my personal experience. I've used it for watching videos, streaming music, and gaming. Overall been great. 👍
I bought my 13700K in late 2022 (Black Friday), so it's still under warranty. I haven't had any issues to date, but I've taken it out of service. I'd really like to know what Intel is going to do for us whose CPUs haven't failed yet but most likely will. EDIT: Sept 27, 2024. I'm going to update my BIOS to the latest available, though now I understand Intel has just released yet another microcode update, and return my 13700K to service. As a hedge against failure, I've bought a 12900K. Intel seems to be running out of Raptor Lake chips, and a refund would still leave me with a useless Z690 board. A 12900K in a drawer is my insurance policy. If my 13700K never fails, then I have another really strong CPU to sell or to build around.
Intel really needs to extend the standard warranty to 7 years for both the 13th and 14th gen CPUs to show they truly stand behind their products after the microcode fix. As some CPUs may start failing prematurely due to accelerated aging in the early years of their life, meaning their lifespan is cut short compared to previous generations.
Hey Paul, love the channel and the merch at your store. Looking to build a gaming PC again. I Just passed on my AM4 platform rig. Should i consider a 9000 series cpu? Or settle with the current 7700 ?
Topic for your next Probing Paul Episode.... Given just how widespread this intel CPU failure or fear of failure nightmare is, just how sketchy will the used market be for these in a few years when they start hitting the secondary market in large numbers, but the initial coverage is a thing of the past? I'm not sure you would have any way of knowing or telling if the CPU in question you're looking at had the micro coding update, and if it was done "in time". Thoughts?
I have a 13600k and have ran it for around 10 months. No crashes or anything yet but I've been keeping my motherboard bios updated, and honestly will likely go AMD my next build not because of Intel having a flaw but because of their horrible response to the problem.
DACs are funny because I believe you hit the diminishing return wall rapidly at maybe $100, but there are options out there in the thousands. Mine was $80 , sounds excellent, and I've been using it for several years now. Also I go back and forth between PC and laptop frequently and plugging it into my USB switch is really nice. Whereas with a PCIe card I'd have 2 audio sources and would have to get an audio switch.
Yes there are diminishing returns, but the price you spend on a dac should be dictated by how much you spend on the headphones or speakers. If you use an $80 dac to drive $3000 headphones, or a $3000 dac to drive $80 headphones, then you have your priorities wrong.
Former Intel employee, lifelong intel cpu owner, 4 months ago I made the switch to a 7800x3d. Seems I dodged a bullet. HAPPY!
the guy at Boeing that doesn't fly on Boeing airplanes. I feel by experience this a recurrent theme
Ive always had Intel CPUs, and for my wife's 30th present, I went AM5 7800x3d. That was in late May, I avoided a massive bullet too!
I used to use only AMD. My last one was the Opteron 165. After that I went Intel and never looked back. First was a Core 2 Duo, then a Core 2 Quad, then various Core i7 from the 4770K to now the 13600K. Never had a single issue with Intel. Had plenty with AMD.
@@the12gaugeshotty Well things have changed, AMD has gotten way better while Intel has been going down into the dumps. You can pretty much say bye-bye to your 13600K lol.
@@the12gaugeshotty I used to use only Intel, now that Intel suck I only use AMD. I've never had any issues with AMD. Intel is so bad, so behind in technology. They're still stuck on 10nm while AMD is on 4. Intel is worth way less than AMD for a good reason, and it's definitely not their GPUs.
I'm on day 12 of my 13900k RMA, intel initially agreed to swap my CPU out but I asked for a full refund because they knowingly sold me a defective CPU (confirmed by Batch#) and I haven't heard back. That was 6 days ago. Do not buy Intel guys, they're out here selling defective CPUs and trying to trade you for a (possibly) defective replacement
You gotta threaten them with lawyers, even if it's a bluff
@@MrBeast1901 I don't wanna get ADL'd bro
Mine was approved but then they found out it was delidded. Even worse? Cinebench R23 ST score is 2200 and MT is 18k. It used to be 40k-42k. Ridiculous.
@@innopriest man that's so rough, that's why I didn't delid mine when I was troubleshooting the crashes etc. I feel for you though man, that really sucks.
@@mehck-gk9ynwell, it's convenient - make the thermal interface between the die and the ihs crappy, so that people want to delid then for good performance; if sh*t happens for whichever reason, they're out of luck and you saved on RMA. Great plan on Intel's side
I'll be exchanging my CPU and mobo as soon as the new x3d chips hit shelves. Big respect to microcenter for not being dicks about their warranty. They're well aware of Intel's fuckery and have assured me that I can bring in my 13th gen stuff whenever I want. Mad respect to microcenter. Intel you can get fucked.
Is your unit somehow even effected? You may not pass warranty inspection cous'. This is an over-inflated problem while also much much more complex then "the tech RUclipsrs" are capable of handling adequately mate...
@@phantomteccan you point us to where we can get better info on the issue?
@@phantomtec Point is, you don't know if the problem is there, or not. Or if the fix will fix it completely, or not. Or if the oxidation issue is there, or not.
So it's def safer to get rid of this potential ticking bomb, which could easily die outside of warranty even with the microcode fix and proper voltage limits set.
Had there been a warranty extension it would have been a maybe, without such it's a definite heck no.
Must be nice having a Microcenter near you.
@@phantomtec A known 10-25% failure rate at the big OEM houses is "over-inflated"? We are talking millions of bad units, many of which Intel KNEW were defective but neglected to tell anyone about, and rejected RMAs from anyway. Intel has been lying to everyone for months, blaming their customers and board partners for issues they KNEW were legit and caused on the production line. We can't trust a single word they say at this point about this issue, period.
It's as simple as this: if you have a 13xxx or 14xxx K-SKU CPU, you have a good chance of being affected eventually, no matter how much Intel claims they have "found the issue". If you have the option to get out of this, then do it. Don't listen to fanboys who handwave the facts of this issue away.
First time I've seen you pop up in the algorithm in a while too. I'm glad to see you back on my feed.
If your intel cpu explodes, call your insurance company. If you dont have insurance, contact a RUclipsr.
What prayer do I chant to get a hold of Tech Jesus? Hair Father?
If you don’t have a RUclipsr, contact Intel.
Pc Jesus Steve
Thanks Steve
I love how Intel support isn't even part of the picture!
Per the dust, I have multiple cats and I will say that air purifiers/filters do make a difference. But ultimately, you have to stay on top of the sweeping or vacuuming, Make it a nightly chore before you go to bed.
If you have to dust your computer every night, seems like you have too many pets, even 3-4 cats should not cause a build up daily. Perhaps weekly. Either way try to get a case with filters and have air flow set up properly and you only have to pull those filters and clean with water quickly.
@@Bound4Earth with sweeping and vacuuming, I was referring to the house in general. I don't have to do that to the PC specifically, every night, lol
The biggest issue is don't put your PC on the floor.
I used to be against sweeping. But now uve given me a reason to sweep more often 😂
I got afraid, then remembered my computer got a Cyrix III processor, so there's no need to worry
nice callback
Cyrix MII 233 was my first build. Ordered all the parts from a catalog.
Regarding dust: If you have central air/heating, check your air filter and consider a higher MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values) filter.
Check and see if you can find an allergy-rated filter that fits your equipment.
*MOST* air handlers accept up to a MERV rating of 11, though there are filters that go beyond that and air handlers that accommodate the higher rating.
A MERV rating of 5 is generally the minimum value to protect the ducts and equipment from excessive dust, doing little to help air quality.
If you're unsure, just find the model number of your air handler and the manual is likely online and should explicitly state the recommended MERV rating range.
(The value is basically a measurement of how effective the filter is at removing particulates from the air.)
And, obviously... general air cleaning filtered fans are an option.
It seems quite strange to focus on your PC when your entire house is affected by dust.
If he isn't willing to spend a lot of money, a box fan can be used along with a 20 x 20 inch air filter. Costco sold either the 2200 or 2500 rated air filters at the 20x20 inch size. Lean the air filter on the air intake side of the fan and that will filter out a lot of dust, pollen, and ultra fine dander (skin cells) floating in the air.
Glad you are giving Gamers Nexus their due. I have seen others not mention them at all (UFD tech, LTT, etc).
Linus is still butthurt over GN calling him out last year. It hurt his feelings, so don't expect any mention from him.
He has a bad personality combo, incredibly arrogant but extremely emotionally sensitive
To prevent dust accumulating, one solution is to get industry dust filter fabric (they come in huge blankets) and give up fancy case window, then seal the box with the filter best as you can from all six sides. Only prevents dust, not airflow. Can be applied to most cases capable good cable management.
I just hope these Intel users can get their money back
This is based
Lol I bet Intel will refuse a lot of those refunds/warranty claims
@@Tritonal92 Yeah that's super funny bro.
I would request a refund and maybe scare them by saying I will hire a lawyer against you.
@@Tritonal92 I heard it varies. Some had a smooth rma, some did not. But even if the rma did go smooth, what if the replacement just breaks as well?
That freeze frame of Steve earned you a subscribe
Been rockin’ Intel CPUs since the 286 debut in the ‘80s on thru 386, 486, Pentiums (reg, MMX, Pro, II, III, IV), Core 2 Quad, until 2020 when gifted a 11700k. Somewhere in the midst of there I strayed off trail with a couple Athlons, but not impressed. Yet in 2020 I went AMD and may ride that for some time onward. Clam happy.
the thing that confuses me is that the 13th gen has been out for quite a while, and we didn't hear anything of these issues until near the end of the 14th gen lifespan. i mean not in the forums or any comparison videos or anything. not from any Tech tubers either. no reports from streamers getting hard crashes in games... why did this suddenly happen to both the 13th and 14th gen at the same time even though they released about a year apart? i guess i just feel like im not getting all of the information.
It's been in forums and on Reddit before 14th Gen. I've been seeing instability issues with the 13900k and KS for quite some time.
@@tresnugget i havent seen any of the tech tube guys say anything about their systems crashing or any other unstable issues. if this is supposed to be 100% of the processors doing this, i would figure theirs would have been affected, and they would have jumped on the issue just for the views. if its not 100%, how many are affected? at this point, ive heard that it was mobo manufacturers pushing the cpu too hard, that the micro code wasnt right and that there is an oxidation issue with them. what exactly is the issue, or dont they know for sure?
Thanks for hosting my comment in this probing paul segment. I agree with watching @BadSeed Tech and seeing what he has to say. But all in all, just glad my comment finally got picked! Thanks Paul.
Intel wishes they only had a typo problem.
AMD is the only one reporting the typo, no one that received them noticed a typo. Who doesn't look at their CPU first to see if they got the right one? I call BS on the typo excuse.
I rather think they AMD right now ! 🤣
@@gertjanvandermeij4265 AMD's were exploding " Literately " not long ago. The public gives AMD to much credit.
@@freedomearthmoon1The problem was with the motherboard manufacturers, not with AMD. But there were problems with AM4 at the start as well. I have an AM4 motherboard, an ASUS X570-P and had it blast my CPU with excessive voltage. A bios update fixed the problem. I upgraded to a 5700x3d a few weeks ago and don’t expect to upgrade for a few years.
@@richardbeckenbaugh1805 Intel blames the motherboard manufactures for 13th and 14th gen. Not taking responsibility for bad silicon and bad information is a cop out.
I really hope Intel can turn things around because we've experienced a CPU monopoly already, and I have no desire to see another, even if the shoe would be on the other foot.
We need to compel Intel to hand out more x86 licenses. AMD is able to produce x86 CPUs because IBM told Intel "we require second-sourcing agreements on any chip we choose for our Personal Computer project" and then, later, Intel and AMD wound up in "you can't sue me and I can't sue you" patent cross-licensing agreements after Intel tried to play dirty.
Same with Cyrix, who sold CPUs that were excellent budget options in the 90s but ended up choking when Quake figured out how to exploit the independence of the integer and floating--point pipelines in Intel and AMD designs for more performance. Cyrix ended up getting bought by National Semiconductor and then sold to VIA, which is how we got those low-power x86 chips in the thin clients people are now repurposing as tiny, fanless DOS/Windows 98/Windows XP retro-hobby PCs.
Intel isn't going anywhere. What I see as the most likely scenario here is they halt the sale of LGA1700 (they should have done this already, but hey... there are still suckers out there who don't follow the tech news) once Arrow Lake launches, hoard the existing inventory for RMA replacements and just wait for the news to die down.
The real problem here is that we don't know for sure that what they're doing is going to actually fix the issue, and it will be MONTHS after you get a new replacement to see if the problem recurs. By that time the entire story will be old news and they'll treat you like the empty bag of money they already got out of you and give you the finger and show you the door with their foot.
It's more of a duopoly and the end result of a performance arms race.
ArrowLake will be good and Intel will flourish.
@@jjlw2378 No red flags that they increased TjMax from 100°C to 105°C?
I upgraded from my 12700K to my current 13700K on my Z690 DDR4 motherboard last November. One thing I did day one is apply a 75mV undervolt to my CPU to reduce power consumption. Haven't had any problems.
Intel 13th and 14th gen were IQ tests which many have failed terribly. Mine's fine fortunately ;D
For the person asking about audio. If you're mainly going to be running speakers with no headphones then go for powered speakers. At the higher end the KEF LSX II LT at $899. At the more affordable end the Elac Debut Connex at $499. Both come with plenty of bells and whistles and E-Arc as well, I believe.
If you want to go passive speakers you will need to do a lot more research on the speakers you want, the DAC/AMP/Pre-amp and make sure the speaker amp has enough power to run them well.
Powered speakers make your decision a lot easier, especially if you're new to the audio enthusiast hobby.
I don't know If I'm sinner but I use MB audio for Genelec G2 + F1 set :D
I have lived the era when we needed sound cards but now MB audio quality is far better and some motherboard manufacturers even show with led lighting that audio portion is separated from other part of motherboard for signal integrity.
Pre-amp maybe nice to have then you can use better signal level from motherboard audio. I have F1 set to about 50% volume.
Also those usb dacs are usually dac + pre-amp. Also new active speakers start to have optical/digital interface in sub that then give signal to monitors. New revision of my Genelec F1 sub has also optical and coaxial input.
would it be worth considering an external DAC for M-Audio av42 speakers (vs onboard sound).
That's a lot of money wasted. A pair of Kali LP6's is all anyone needs for high quality flat monitors. If for whatever reason you don't want a flat response curve then that's a massive red flag in audio quality, so any stereo desktop speakers can do that.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. Are you fine with Spotify and your music collection is mainly mp3s, I am going to say no.
If you want to dip your feet into the audio enthusiast rabbit hole with things like Tidal and Qobuz then yes.
They are powered speakers with a 20amp A/B amp built in, so you don't have to worry about a speaker amp, so something like ifi Uno DAC/Amp, or the JDS Labs Atom 2 Bundle.
This gives you the ability to run your speakers and the ability to plug in a nice easy to drive set of headphones.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. If you mainly just use Spotify and Mp3s then I would say no. If you want to dip your feet into the audio rabbit hole then something like the ifi Uno or the JDS Labs Atom Stack 2 Bundel. This allows you to run your speakers since it has its own 20w A/B amp, and give you the ability to plug in some easy to drive headphones as well.
6:34 dust filters are only of interest on air intakes into the case. Anywhere you have a fan blowing out you shouldn't have a filter. Also count the fans on in and out ports. It's common that one of these are in the majority. So if you have more fans blowing air out of the case than in then you have a negative pressure inside the case. This assumes that the fans are the same and are all running at the same speed. The most common suggestion is to make sure you have more fans blowing into the case than out. This way you get a positive air pressure and all, or at least close to it, air will pass the intake fans and the filters on these. If you have a negative pressure, more fans blowing out than in, air will take any way it can find into the case. All the small holes and openings will be ones that doesn't have a filter and dust will make it's way into the case.
This is just basic design ideas as fans on a radiator will have to press air through the radiator. Same with air filter. They will make the fans work harder to get the air through the filter. So just counting fans in and out doesn't necessarily provide the correct answer. You have to figure out if you have positive or negative pressure in the case. I would say that if you can you want to have positive pressure, but it all depends on the case and how many fans are installed. A common design is to ha air going in the front and if possible the bottom. Again this depends on the case used. Then you blow air out the top and the back.
🎯 Key points for quick navigation:
00:00:05 *🔄 AMD Ryzen 9000 CPU benchmarks delayed; speculation on launch issues.*
00:00:29 *⌨️ Sponsor plug for Corsair K65 Plus Wireless RGB keyboard.*
00:00:55 *📅 Episode 88 of "Probing Paul"; questions and answers from viewers.*
00:01:52 *⚠️ Intel Raptor Lake CPUs experiencing high failure rates due to high voltages and oxidation.*
00:03:14 *💡 Advice on RAM configuration: prefer 2x 64GB kits over 4x 32GB kits.*
00:03:41 *💻 Recommendation to switch to AMD CPUs for new builds, specifically the 7800X3D or 7950X3D.*
00:04:35 *💸 Intel 12900K suggested as a cost-effective alternative for Intel enthusiasts.*
00:05:29 *🔄 Importance of updating BIOS for 13th/14th gen Intel CPUs to mitigate issues.*
00:06:22 *🧹 Suggestions to manage dust in PCs: use air purifiers and clean filters regularly.*
00:09:05 *🖥️ Advice on mini PCs for non-gaming use; mentions Zotac, GMK Tech, and Beelink.*
00:11:27 *🎧 External USB DAC recommended over internal sound cards for better audio quality.*
00:13:48 *🛍️ Reminder to check out Paul's Hardware store and subscribe for future content.*
Made with HARPA AI
Techtubers need to be more clear about the intel problem. If you have 14th gen and you lock cores and set voltages to safe levels right out of the box, the overvolting VID problem DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU . A bios update does nothing for the oxidation problem which intel has stated only applies to 13th gen. It simply nurfs the CPU which will fail prematurely no matter what.
Am an Intel owner, am baffled they havent put a hold on sales for the chip, as like you said the info they released isnt exactly reassuring, and I think your advice to those Intel builders on swapping the board for AMD (or if has to be Intel get a 12900k) is solid.
For reference my chip is stable, but of course due to lack of info on batch numbers etc., I dont know if my CPU is already on its way to failing.
Thanks Paul !!! Just saying Hi it’s been a while. I hope you’re doing great. Take care buddy.
Ok! I hope you can answer this tech question and maybe you've never been asked this before, but..., I need a 280/240 AIO with the pump in the radiator. I know they make them but the only one that I'm aware of is the Hyte Q60 Thick, for $300. I'm considering it, but so far, a search hasn't returned many other results. I'm hoping that you are aware of more. I prefer a 280, (which the Hyte doesn't have) & a 240 might work, but I plan on fitting it inside the front of a modded Corsair 760T case and this case is large. I'm afraid that a 240 would look out of size, especially viewed from the front through a wood carved grill.
Due to the case modding, the front now has a Hobbit Home where the top drive bays were, and a CPU pump puts any front mounted radiator below the CPU. Presently, I'm running a Corsair Capelexe Elite 280 in the top, but I have plans for the top to include Hobbit Carvings in wood, along with the modded wood carved side panels to complete the theme. This means that the top mounted AIO will have to go.
For Intel users:
1) Make sure your Intel CPU is running latest BIOS, and watt limited to 253w unless you know how to undervolt. Then head to my channel and see step by step.
2) Wait. Use your computer.
3) IF your CPU fails, make sure you used Intel's profiles and RMA the chip
4) I am on my second 13900k, and I know how to prevent voltage degradation, but silicon quality is something I do not control. My first chip was undervolted and still failed. But it was watt limited to 300 watts, new chip is 262 watts limited and did not fail.
Trial and error.
Just switch to AMD or old Intel, dude. Current Intel cpus are done for.
Hey I have the bell ticked for notifications but this is the first time I seen one of your videos pop up in months
youtube is like that a lot, thanks very much for stopping by and commenting though 🙏
IMO this is exactly why I don't rely on their service to notify me. The function has been faulty for years off and on. That's why I go directly to my subscriber feed and check myself every day when I have time. Though I get not everyone has the time or dedication to do that.
One of the major contributors to Dust is dead skin flakes. So a Bedroom is more likely to build up dust than other parts of the house. What you want to do is setup a system to pull air out of your room through a dust filter, and simultaneously push fresh air into your room, also through a Dust Filter, if you are experiencing a large amount of dust. I actually have a Return Vent in my room connected to the return ventilation in my house, and of course both Inflow and Outflow from the HVAC are filtered and changed twice a year when possible/remembered. But anyways my dad figured this out in the 90s and setup a return vent in my brother's new room, and I just got to benefit years later.
2:00 "That's an interesting freeze frame that I captured!"
If some people want an Intel system. I recommend waiting to buy one between mid-September and November after Intel and other organizations test to see if the microcode update helped.
If you want to be serious about cleaning your gizmos, I suggest the following kit:
1. Stop wasting $ on canned air. Get a cheap, tiny $50 air compressor from Harbor and use lowest pressure. 2. Paint brush & Q-Tips, Pipe Cleaners. 3. 98% Isopropyl alcohol. Because you need to break the static cling to all your bits, and dry wiping can INCREASE the charge. Alcohol wiping breaks the cling.
And don't forget to hit the BACK of your fanblades with a liquored up Q Tip to break cling and regain airflow, otherwise it just turns into a dirt clod again that delivers no pressure.
Edit: I have a 5000d Airflow housing my daily driver pc, and despite so many wonderful easy-clean filters, it still needs this treatment every season on the inside.
One thing you didn't mention is that if your PC is on or near the floor, get it up!
My old PC was on the floor AND near a window and the dust build up was brutal. Now it's setup ABOVE my desk, around head height, and it's insanely better. I clean it out once a year, and even then there's barely anything to blow out.
About the entry level mini PCs
I have worked with a ton of HP ProDesk/EliteDesk Mini PCs, and can highly recommend them, they have socketed desktop-class CPUs, socketed SODIMM ram with an extra slot for upgrades, an M.2 slot for storage, pretty solid IO, and easy to open and work on with only a few screws. (although no GPU options, at least not the office systems I've worked with)
While they will get the job done for most tasks, I'd still steer people away from most mini PCs. They're almost all mobile CPUs and limited compared to their desktop counterparts.
They're not socketed, so you're stuck with the CPU you initially got, their RAM is limited, as are other areas of expansion.
A lower end PC build however, done right can grow with you and become a gaming PC at some point by dropping in a GPU.
That would be a nice build to see - no bling, no RGB (which I know is what makes up most B-roll these days). just clean cable management and performane.
Instead of getting a cheap new mini PC I'd rather buy a used Dell or HP micro PC.
I have a dell 7060M and it has socketed ram and a socketed CPU. Plus a hard drive tray to add a 2nd drive. For $100 on eBay you get so much more computer. I'll take my 8th gen Intel i5 over some new Celeron or ultra low voltage chip.
Trying to RMA my 13900k. It's been 7 days since I contacted intel and still haven't heard anything from them. Think they are busy?
Some companies have 1000 units rejected RMA, also you will need wait up to 2-3monhts for replacement 2 year ago this take up to week.
oh ya they're busy with my RMA that I started 12 days ago and haven't heard anything back from in 6 days. BACK OF THE LINE! Jk sucks bro we're in this together! SCREW INTEL FOR LIFE
they want it to be so hard to rma that you consider not to - its corporate strategy -support is like this nowadays -if it easy you are a scammer or cheater
Sorry for all the people that are going through the issues with thier Intel chips, it's a horrible thing. I wish you the best of luck with RMA's.
But if your starting a build now just go with AMD. I just upgraded my AMD 5900x rig with a 7800x3d from microcenter in a custom combo deal for just over $500 (MB,CPU & RAM). The 7800x3d in the combo was $224, I could not pass that up.
Great video Paul and stay well.
Re dust buildup... one of my wife's friends asked: "I was told to clean the dust off of my PC's vents. What do I do with the felt pads? Can I wash them?" 😱
Omg.... Took me a few seconds
😂
Every day we stray further from God
You're using FELT pads as filters? A better choice for home-made dust filter is to stretch female hosiery fabric over the filter frame. What I use at home is an air filter. Air purifiers are expensive, so if you are DIY, you can simply get a box fan and use those 3M air filters (rated 2200 or 2500) at Costco. Lean that filter on the intake side of the box fan and the air pressure will suck the air filter up against the box fan. That will reduce the dust in your home's air.
@@animejanai4657 *Whoosh*
Oh how considerate of the computer vents to make their own felt filters.
For the non-gaming PC I'd point to Paul's lower end, or bang for the buck, builds. Any of the 600- or 800- builds would work great for that usage.
My year-old i9-13900KF system has been [apparently] running fine, but Cyberpunk 2077 started to persistently crash on opening in the last few months. To make a long story short, I updated the BIOS [June '24 release] on my MSI Z790 motherboard and that solved my Cyberpunk problem. I'll be watching for the promised August BIOS/microcode release and see it I need it. I'll probably install it if it seems advisable.
So . . . I guess Zen4 prices won't be dropping when Zen5 launches after all. And Zen5 prices will be $50 per SKU higher across the board.
Thanks Intel.
I too blame Intel for AMD's decisions.
I pay GLADLY $50 more for a good system ! I might go for an AM4 with an 7700x or all out with an AM5, with an 8700X3D . #AMDjustRULES The HELL with Intel & ASUS !
Meanwhile I'm watching this with my i7-8700k still going strong
I have an 8700k too, it's been on a loop never going over 45c it's entire life. I bet it lasts 20 years lol
@@mehck-gk9ynat those temperatures it wouldn't surprise me if it lasts a lot longer than that. Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs
@@tylerweston6358 >Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs
I'm gonna find out! She's going until failure however many years it takes.
I replaced my 8700k with a 14900k. Will never use intel again
@@mehck-gk9yn Until the pump fails on that loop.
Oh! A recommendation for a sleeper hit in the audio space - there's a CA company called "Schitt Audio" that makes really great stuff. They have an entry level DAC/Amplifier called the "Fulla" for ~200$ I bought one with some Sennheiser cans, and it's like buttah.
Hardware Canucks reviewed it a couple years back.
For your lighting note.... his lighting isn't really that great, its functional and does a very nice job, but so does yours. BUT.... there's a rule in cinematography that you could use to 'tweak'? maybe? you NEVER point the camera at the lighted side of the face and your light is coming from the right and your camera is slightly moved to the right also... maybe move the light to the other side? :)
I 'm relieved I ditched my last Intel last year😊
Instead of buying some random DAC, buy a budget pro audio interface e.g. Audient Evo. Inexpensive but excellent audio quality.
I agree Paul too many people see the DIY PC space as obligatory, when not everyone has the capacity to build and fully support a PC maintenance wise. There's no shame in getting a prebuilt, laptop, or a bare bones box to do what you need. Especially if the user is needing a web browser and video watching system. Not everyone is a techie like I am that enjoys being in the weeds of the DIY space. And sometimes people have a family and lose out on the time to work on stuff. Again that's fine.
A great (if depressing) way to save money on audiophile gear is to first check your hearing. You can download hearing test apps that play sounds of increasing frequency. When you can't hear them anymore, that's your limit. Once I realized that years of listening to loud music had destroyed my ability to hear anything above about 7khz, I stopped pretending to be an audiophile and accepted I was wasting my money on top-end gear.
I highly recommend the BLUEAIR Blue Pure 211+ (square block shape) for an air purifier. It's expensive, but it does a fantastic job. The smaller and cheaper 411 (cylinder shape) is a great alternative if the 211+ is too pricey. These filters do an excellent job of sucking up a lot of dust; my computer goes months with hardly any dust gathering. Both models are designed to run continuously, and I recommend you do that. They run exceptionally quietly.
The last Intel cpu I had was the i5 4460 and didn’t gave me any problems. After that I had an amd Ryzen 3700+ and had some memory problems. Most of the memory problems were gone when I changed to an amd 5800X. Since then I use a mini-pc.
About the Intel 13th and 14th gen cpu’s, Intel extended their warranty for two years, it’s going in the right direction. And about the internal or external sound card vs motherboard sound, for the longest time I have used an internal sound blaster audígy 2 and it sounds much better than onboard sound, especially if you have good speakers. Thanks Paul for all your videos.
to prevent dust intake which I pretty much eliminated, only ultra fine dust remains 1-my tower is above my desk on an ikea Alex 9 drawers unit (45+ inches high) 2-have filters on all intakes 3-using icue or whatever you control your fans with try to achieve 50-50 intake-exhaust airflow this prevents your PC from becoming a vacuum cleaner but the important part is the PC being high you can buy DEMCiflex filter kits depending on your case model they won't have a nice look (they are floppy like textile almost and cave in or out depending on airflow direction) and they do limit airflow but are super fine and prevent visible dust from entering your case, since I'm liquid cooled I only lost like 2°C but it depends on your config
Make sure the following wording (or something like it) appears on the BIOS update: "Updated with microcode 0x125 to ensure eTVB operates within Intel specifications" That's from the ROG MAXIMUS Z790 DARK HERO BIOS 1402. Intel said they are releasing the final or full patch mid-August.
For an everyday non-gaming PC, nothing beats a business class laptop! I myself love X-series Thinkpads, and my EDC has been an X230 for years. When I dock it at my TV (not 4K) I have a capable HTPC, when I dock it at my desk I have a multi-monitor workstation with a full sized keyboard and mouse ready to go, and when I throw it in my backpack it is always fully charged and a capable companion PC on the go. I would pick up a used X280 to get 4K and Windows 11 compatibility if I were to buy a new setup today though.
Great questions this month, good job everyone. Paul, great answers, as always.
Paul if you want any help if your lighting it’d be an honor to lend a hand you’ve helped me learn so much it’s the least I can do (and probably even help with)
The best i7 and i9 users can do is to undervolt their CPU. I did mine out of the box, still works fine, and I've yet to see someone who undervolted theirs and it still turned into a brick.
That "dream build" was the typically comical: "I'll buy the most expensive, pointless, crap I can find since it _must_ be somehow better..."! Buddy, just get a nice case, a 13600k and a 4080 Super; save a few grand and go on vacation with some friends with the savings (you'll be a better human for it).
It's amazing how some people think that irrelevant, unnoticeable, items ("premium" motherboards, grossly oversized power supplies, obscene amounts of RAM, ad nauseam) will make their PC experience somehow "better".
9:04 Maybe Richard just wants to build for the fun of building.
I tried to warn someone I know from Splurging on an Omen Prebuilt 14900KF system. They think that all the recent issues is just "RUclips Drama"... They want to learn the Hard Way I guess.
The ifi Zen Dac v2 is something I got based on Brian's video, it's been absolutely amazing. I ended up slowly climbing the audiophile ladder, bunch of schiit gear now, but I'm still going back to the Zen Dac as my balanced audio source half the time; It's just that good. And that analog 'x-bass' button is the musical equivalent to a crack dispenser.
I've spent a little time looking for ways to donate PC components, but I am having trouble finding a place that want them. Everywhere I've found wants a whole PC or just peripherals, not the individual components I have.
Thanks, and I love the content.
Its nice to hear, around 11:24, that my purchase of a Schiit audio DAC was probably a good idea! Purchasers bias and all that. Now that you mention it, i might consider upgrading that DAC further :D. Ah, audiophile tech is such an expensive rabbit hole!
I see the white mode, it's just a pale purple fade of a few pixels but I see those glorious bright days. Lol
I'd point Richard Harrison to the 2nd hand market for a everyday non gaming build. You can pick up something for browsing the web for super cheap. Buy a 2nd hand office PC for like $100-200.
Pauls Hardware : you don't know squat about the RTX 4090-s PWR consumption. It needs at least a 1200 Watts PSU if it is coupled with an AMD CPU. But it needs at least a 1500 Watt CPU if it's paired with a Shintel Core i7 or i9. That's due to Shintels Nuclear PWR consumptions (and Nvidias own) and due to the fact that you cannot get 560 Watts of continuous PWR (with max peaks up to 641 Watts) for the GPU alone via a single 12V rail through 4 x 8-PCI-Ex connectors. It's just not how the PSU design is made. That PWR is distributed through 12V rails and multipliers or dividers on the 12V rails.
The 1200 Watts PSU is just not gonna cut it for a Shintel-Nvidia build.
The real defect is inside the company. The exploding hardware is just the most visible symptom. That is a massive ship to turn around, but I hope they can do it. Massive layoffs including key managers will be a start.
Regarding the last question, I would still recommend an internal sound card such as the Asus Strix Raid or the Sound Blaster AE5 specifically for speakers. Reason being most affordable external DACs only have stereo outputs and lack 5.1 or 7.1 outputs.
The other option, which is honestly the best, would be to get a receiver that supports Dolby Atmos and simply use one of your video card's HDMI ports to output sound that way.
Been rocking 13900k for a little over a year now. Not an ounce of trouble yet. But we shall see what happens!
I've got an i9-13900k on an MSI MPG Z790 motherboard. I've been running it since October of 2023 without any crashes or any issues. I updated the BIOS last week anyway, I hope I'm not going to have any problems....
Just my luck. Most of the prebuilts they sell in my country that had caught my interest had 13/14th gen Intel chips. No way in hell i'm buying any of them now. Raptor Lake is cursed.
Regarding basic computing: I go APU's for that. AMD has the best there, by far, and the latest 8000 series APU's are amazing. If you don't know, APU's are CPU's with exceptional built in graphics. And the upgrade path is as simple as adding a GPU down the road if you feel you need more power....but if you only have basic needs, than that really wont be needed. Excellent as always Paul, look forward to the next home update as well 😊
Dusty computers will stay dusty if you smoke around them. I build and fix computers on the side and smoker PCs are the worse. Components literally become sticky. If you want less dust in your PC, don't smoke around it and get a better vacuum and clean your carpets more often. A carpet cleaning vacuum is also recommended as it'll actually pull a lot more dirt out of your carpet with soap and water. My PC stays clean because of this. I built my current PC about 9 months ago and its still very clean inside.
I'm glad I decided to watch this particular probing! I had the same question about soundcard (like "do they even still make those") or external DAC. Maybe it's confirmation bias because I really, REALLY don't want to put anything between my GPU and bottom intake, but I'm happy I got an answer and a place to start looking. Thanks 👍
Glad I went with AMD now.
Me too, The hell with Intel & ASUS
Re: dust issue
Make sure your case has more intake than exhaust so that there's positive pressure inside the case, and all intake goes through filters.
Also for the air purifier, find one with the cheapest replacement filters.
My pc setup I use an Audio Video receiver, Yamaha RX A2A with Klipsch 7.1 speakers. I use a display port from Video card to the receiver ( acts like a 2nd monitor/audio ).
I've purchased and used several Beelink Mini PCs for clients and they are great!
Paul is back. All is well in the world.
And here i thought going with intel was going to be more "reliable" than my previous ryzen build. FML.
i remember watching you on newegg talking about the gtx 600 series with kyle. those were the days… i have no idea how young i was but i was young, potentially 6th grade. ended up building a pc w r7 1700 and gtx1080 a few years later.
nerding out over computer parts was fun
what a time it was!
Over a cheap, entry-level laptop, I would recommend a used business laptop, tower, or sff PC.
Hey Paul! Here is a question for the next episode: How important is it to check for Motherboard driver updates from the manufacturer's site? (BIOS, Chipset Drivers, LAN, etc)
The mini PC is a great solution, but you can also go with a Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 and do just about everything that was in that list. Less power, less noise, and less money in general.
Thank goodness, I have a R9 5900X. As for DAC's, I've been eyeing the iFi Zen Blue 3 Lossless DAC for the extra bluetooth connectivity. I currently have an EVGA NU-AUDIO sound card which is great. But since EVGA doesn't really make stuff anymore I can no longer get updated drivers for it. So a nice external DAC in the near future will be nice to have. The other nice thing about DACs is the expandability of them. You can either plug them directly into an external amp for hooking up speakers, a stereo receiver or headphone amp. I see iFi also offers a phono stage for those who want to hook up a turntable. :)
Hey Paul, great probing as always. Question...
Now that the microcode is out for many motherboards, provided there hasn't been an isdue wirh your CPU, would you think its ok to overclock "K" chips again?
11:37 I agree with Paul.
Even a high end mother board might have issues with microphone recording. So don't buy a pricier motherboard just for the audio. But when it comes to music audio then there will be a slight difference in clarity, I meant slight! Some might not notice it.
I have a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XIII HERO, not latest and greatest, I had issues with audio having artifacts, for some reason only in web browsers.
And as I mentioned there clarity will be better on an external audio interface, but if you do voice recording or 2ant to do video calls it's a must.
I scored a Rode AI-1 on a great price, it was only tested and sent back, so got a nice deal, but this unit is already quite affordable. But even with Asio driver installed I can't get the volume loud enough for the mic. So I recommend EqualizerAPO If you have this issue. There you can adjust the gain to appropriate level. But maybe other interfaces exist with more gain.
1:57 GN has their eye on the situation
I've been running my 14900k for about 9 months now and my 13600k for nearly a year. No issues at all as of yet. They both run great
Just wait one more week ! 🤣
Intel 13th and 14th gen were IQ tests which many have failed terribly. Mine's fine fortunately ;D
Currently I'm waiting on Intel 15th Gen, Z890, CAMM2, and RTX 5000 for my upcoming build. I'll be going back to a desktop, an MATX build, to replace my Alienware Area 51m R1 laptop for my semi truck.
Kinda sad Deepcool isn't available anymore, as I was interested in using their Assassin IV, as the performance looked good, and I liked the aesthetic it has. Guess I'll probably end up going with either Noctua or Be Quite instead. (Unless they manage to overturn the sanction in court)
Overall in the long-term process of overhauling my entire setup in my truck. Doing so for better performance, easier upgradability/maintenance, and comfort. Going from a 17" screen to a 42" TV, and from 1080p to 4k will be a nice change. Already got my Case/chassis, keyboard, new mouse, DAC, and some other accessories sitting aside. Kinda waiting for CEDIA 2024 in September before I buy a TV, hoping Sony might release some updated models to the Bravia XR series A90k & A95L. (Or wait for a good discount on the A90k 42")
••• Also from my experience so far with this new USB DAC I picked up, the Creative Sound Blaster X5. It's been great with my my Audio Technica ATH WS1100 headphones. (Comparable to the M50X series) Big difference in sound depth, bass, and clarity versus just plugging them into the audio jack on my laptop. Also has good physical controls, the software is easy to use, and as a plus it also improved the sound quality on my Antlion Modmic 5. I'd certainly recommend it from my personal experience. I've used it for watching videos, streaming music, and gaming. Overall been great. 👍
I bought my 13700K in late 2022 (Black Friday), so it's still under warranty. I haven't had any issues to date, but I've taken it out of service. I'd really like to know what Intel is going to do for us whose CPUs haven't failed yet but most likely will.
EDIT: Sept 27, 2024. I'm going to update my BIOS to the latest available, though now I understand Intel has just released yet another microcode update, and return my 13700K to service. As a hedge against failure, I've bought a 12900K. Intel seems to be running out of Raptor Lake chips, and a refund would still leave me with a useless Z690 board. A 12900K in a drawer is my insurance policy. If my 13700K never fails, then I have another really strong CPU to sell or to build around.
No issues they'll tell you update bios/ME mid August. No RMA.
their response to you.. butkus.. zippo. You got a microcode update coming and my guess is you better use it, then pray.
@@aeromotive2 I smell a class action in the air...
@@aeromotive2Does AMD pay you people to say this stuff? You don’t see Intel flocking to AMD channels to rag on them. At least I don’t.
@@H33t3Speaks Intel fanboys insulting AMD users has been the stereotype norm for over 10 years...where have you been? Nvidia ones do it too.
I’m at 7:05 and my current build contains a 12600k and a Corsair 4000D. I’ve never felt so seen. Edit: I’m terrified regarding my upgrade path 😟
There's an upgrade path with lga? Fk a duck!
Just upgrade to an AM4 with an 7700x or all out with an AM5, with an 8700X3D . #AMDjustRULES The HELL with Intel & ASUS !
Intel really needs to extend the standard warranty to 7 years for both the 13th and 14th gen CPUs to show they truly stand behind their products after the microcode fix. As some CPUs may start failing prematurely due to accelerated aging in the early years of their life, meaning their lifespan is cut short compared to previous generations.
Paul, the microcode updates you're telling people to get now aren't available yet. For now, it's best to manually set voltage and power limits.
Hey Paul, love the channel and the merch at your store. Looking to build a gaming PC again. I Just passed on my AM4 platform rig. Should i consider a 9000 series cpu? Or settle with the current 7700 ?
As someone with a Corsair 200R case, I plan on switching to a better case solely for airflow reasons.
I was about to recommend BedSeedTech for the audio question before Paul actually said it lol
12:54 I have the exact Dac/Amp that Brian is holding the iFi Zen V2. It is very powerful and sounds great for about $200
Topic for your next Probing Paul Episode.... Given just how widespread this intel CPU failure or fear of failure nightmare is, just how sketchy will the used market be for these in a few years when they start hitting the secondary market in large numbers, but the initial coverage is a thing of the past? I'm not sure you would have any way of knowing or telling if the CPU in question you're looking at had the micro coding update, and if it was done "in time". Thoughts?
2:01 Steve's O face.
I have a 13600k and have ran it for around 10 months. No crashes or anything yet but I've been keeping my motherboard bios updated, and honestly will likely go AMD my next build not because of Intel having a flaw but because of their horrible response to the problem.
DACs are funny because I believe you hit the diminishing return wall rapidly at maybe $100, but there are options out there in the thousands. Mine was $80 , sounds excellent, and I've been using it for several years now. Also I go back and forth between PC and laptop frequently and plugging it into my USB switch is really nice. Whereas with a PCIe card I'd have 2 audio sources and would have to get an audio switch.
Yes there are diminishing returns, but the price you spend on a dac should be dictated by how much you spend on the headphones or speakers. If you use an $80 dac to drive $3000 headphones, or a $3000 dac to drive $80 headphones, then you have your priorities wrong.