The front passenger bearing was loud when I spun the wheel, but when I was working on the driver's side (as you see in the video) it too was making loud noises. I have a lot of suspension stuff to work on as well to make the ride better and less noisy. Today, I replaced the valve cover gaskets since both of those were letting oil drain down on to the exhaust manifolds. Thanks for watching my video!
Have a 2013. After watching i decided to replace all 4 brakes, rotors and front hubs. I will take a look at the rear parking brake when I am in there. Never worked on one so I am hoping not to need service. I do need to replace the rear driver's side abs sensor. Hope it is plug and play. I watched this video 3 times and took notes. It will be my first ever brake job. Fingers crossed. I enjoy your videos as your delivery matches well for my need to know everything. As a novice that's important. I am on new caprice forum now as skialpentolic. Thanks again for sharing in such a niche market.
Working on the brakes overall isn't that hard, but be aware that certain parts such as the wheel hub assemblies are specific to the generation of Caprice. The parts for the 11-13 Caprice are most similar to the Pontiac G8. The parts for the 14-17 Caprice are most similar to the 14-17 Chevy SS Sedan. Good luck with your brake work on your Caprice!
Nice video. I put the same brake kit on my 2014 and they're working great. Unfortunately, I missed a bad hub. Will be changing that next. Thank you for your time. BTW, had a stuck pin on my caliper as well.
I'm quite happy with this brake kit on my 2014 Caprice. I've put about 4K miles on it now and the brakes work well. Both of my front hubs were shot. Recently, I had to replace the rear wheel bearings because one was loose/worn.
Nice work! You might watch Eric O at South Main Auto Repair LLC (upstate New York) do similar jobs, on RUclips. I was thinking a Chevrolet SS deserves some great brakes. 6 piston/4 piston calipers like found on C6 Grand Sport, ZO6, and ZR1 models. None of that sliding caliper nonsense to get jammed up and stuck.
I do watch SMA. My videos focus only on the cars I own or work on for friends. SMA has a large variety of makes/models due to it being a repair shop. I hope owners of the same cars I have in my videos might find my videos helpful in case the work on their own car or have a shop work on it for them, especially for my Chevy SSR pickup.
RetroCarGuy530 Eric O is great to watch, and pick up queues on how a brake job is done quickly and safely. I understand you only work on your own cars, and you surely don’t get much practice doing the brakes, for instance. I don’t do much work on my cars. I think the last time was replacing a front caliper (heavy cast iron, 4 piston) on my 1969 Corvette because the seals were leaking. I used an HF vacuum bleeder.
I hope this video as helpful in showing you what I went through to replace the front hub assemblies. In another video on my channel, I go through replacing the rear suspension knuckles and pressing in new rear wheel bearings.
2012 caprice with 120k miles having a pulling when I brake at low speeds sometimes to the left sometimes to the right about to look into the issue. Also getting weird wear on my driver front tire on the outside far edge. New tires and it was aligned 500 miles ago
I found that each of my car's front calipers had a one sticking caliper slide pin. That can cause uneven brake pad wear or uneven braking effectiveness which might result in a pulling to one side or the other. The uneven tire wear can be from a worn front hub bearing or your car may still be misaligned. Many Chevy SS owners would get their cars aligned (after the electric power steering recall for example) and a 4-wheel alignment was performed only to result in poor steering or handling after the work was done. Sometimes, it was found the tech loaded the wrong alignment specs into the alignment machine or the tech only did a front wheel alignment instead of a 4-wheel alignment.
@@RetroCarGuy530 removed the tire today the inside and outside of the tire are severely cupped hub assembly was fine no play and no noise. Hoping it is the front strut/strut mount
I’ve ordered the exact set you have but my oem front calipers didnt fit the pads and rotors. The 2014 caprice i have has 321mm rotors from the factory, the new rotors are 345mm. I am thinking of ordering caprice PPV calipers. DO you think this will work? Is that all I need to change? If yes could you share the part number of front right and left calipers. Thanks
I'm sorry you're having a problem fitting the brakes on the front of your Caprice. I just reverified the part number info I placed in the video's description section for the Power Stop K5948 kit (front). It does contain rotors with a 345mm diameter. Every part listing I can find shows that the 2011-2017 Caprice front rotors are 345mm rotors. I'm unsure why your Caprice had 321mm rotors instead of what looks like factory 345mm rotors. If you want to pursue getting Caprice calipers, my best suggestion would be go to Rock Auto's website and use that as a good reference for potential new calipers and likely you'll need new caliper mounting brakes as well (which some of the offerings on Rock Auto include the brackets).
Robert, a question on the front brakes. I really enjoy your videos: the thoughtful and measured presentation, plus the layman’s explanations when needed. I have been trying to chase down a rattling noise in my front brakes. Entering a driveway with the standard 1-1 1/2” edge and foot off the brakes there is some sort of rattling sound from the front. Foot lightly on the brakes, and there is no noise. At the 8:30 point in this video you replace the stainless steel brake pad clips. Is there any type of anti rattle kit you added here, or do those stainless clips serve as the anti rattle mechanism? DGBryan
Those stainless steel clips are meant to provide a smooth surface for the edge of the brake pad backing plates to slide in/out as necessary. There is a small amount of tension provided by the clips that will tend to hold the pads ever so slightly and yes that can prevent rattling of the brake pads. Make sure that your installation has the stainless steel clips in place on both the top and bottom. Those stainless steel clips are usually provided with the brake pads and should be replaced each time the brake pads are replaced. Another thing to look for would be the caliper slide pins and whether one or both of them are seized preventing the caliper from moving enough to keep an even pressure on the backside of the brake pad backing plates. I found one pin seized on each side of my 14 Caprice. I cleaned them in the video and reused them, but later on I purchased a set of new caliper slide pins and rubber pieces to replace the ones in the video to make sure there was no reason for the calipers not to slide like it should in/out as the brakes are applied and the pads wear down (normally). I hope that helps!
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks for the quick reply. I picked up the hardware kit today and finished the passenger side. Judging by the amount of A double S it took to remove the passenger caliper bracket bolts I would bet they had never been removed. I followed your methodology to verify the correct clips. Replaced the rubber boots after verifying the caliper pins were lubricated and not corroded like 2 of yours. Fingers crossed for the test drive after finishing the driver's side in the morning. Knuckle skin intact so far: a tribute to your detailed video tutorial. DGBryan
@@RetroCarGuy530 Unfortunately no. The caliper slide pins were free and lubricated, the new caliper hardware clips were twins to the old ones, so there is still something right in front of me that I have not seen yet. Entering my driveway the noise is the most noticeable. The sway bar bushings were replaced within the last 12 months and their brackets are tight. The next two items of interest are the steering shaft from the firewall to the rack and pinion, and then the rack mounting itself. Thanks for inquiring. These cars are a blast to drive, they are FAST and QUICK. As you document, they will try your patience at time. I have read many gripes about the 6.0l, but mine is about the smoothest idling and running engine I have had in years Now if I can just get the brakes to cooperate. Have a good holiday season. Looking forward to your channed next year !!!
Robert, this is DGBryan. I use my wife's email account and this is on my daughter's computer, hence all the ladies pictures showing up in the comments. I'm sure either one or both will tell me EXACTLY what I did wrong with the Caprice! :))))
I added a "Part Info" section to the video description section with the major items I used in this video for the wheel hub assemblies and the front/rear brakes.
I did my fronts this week! And decided to put new lugs on! Also did one hub assemble! I went with timken! Mines a 2013 caprice with 184000
The front passenger bearing was loud when I spun the wheel, but when I was working on the driver's side (as you see in the video) it too was making loud noises. I have a lot of suspension stuff to work on as well to make the ride better and less noisy. Today, I replaced the valve cover gaskets since both of those were letting oil drain down on to the exhaust manifolds. Thanks for watching my video!
Have a 2013. After watching i decided to replace all 4 brakes, rotors and front hubs. I will take a look at the rear parking brake when I am in there. Never worked on one so I am hoping not to need service. I do need to replace the rear driver's side abs sensor. Hope it is plug and play. I watched this video 3 times and took notes. It will be my first ever brake job. Fingers crossed.
I enjoy your videos as your delivery matches well for my need to know everything. As a novice that's important. I am on new caprice forum now as skialpentolic. Thanks again for sharing in such a niche market.
Working on the brakes overall isn't that hard, but be aware that certain parts such as the wheel hub assemblies are specific to the generation of Caprice. The parts for the 11-13 Caprice are most similar to the Pontiac G8. The parts for the 14-17 Caprice are most similar to the 14-17 Chevy SS Sedan. Good luck with your brake work on your Caprice!
@@RetroCarGuy530 Hubs and brake set said fits 2013 caprice but Amazon can be off sometimes. Esp when f250 is mentioned in the description as well.
Great work
Nice video. I put the same brake kit on my 2014 and they're working great. Unfortunately, I missed a bad hub. Will be changing that next. Thank you for your time. BTW, had a stuck pin on my caliper as well.
I'm quite happy with this brake kit on my 2014 Caprice. I've put about 4K miles on it now and the brakes work well. Both of my front hubs were shot. Recently, I had to replace the rear wheel bearings because one was loose/worn.
Nice work! You might watch Eric O at South Main Auto Repair LLC (upstate New York) do similar jobs, on RUclips.
I was thinking a Chevrolet SS deserves some great brakes. 6 piston/4 piston calipers like found on C6 Grand Sport, ZO6, and ZR1 models. None of that sliding caliper nonsense to get jammed up and stuck.
I do watch SMA. My videos focus only on the cars I own or work on for friends. SMA has a large variety of makes/models due to it being a repair shop. I hope owners of the same cars I have in my videos might find my videos helpful in case the work on their own car or have a shop work on it for them, especially for my Chevy SSR pickup.
RetroCarGuy530 Eric O is great to watch, and pick up queues on how a brake job is done quickly and safely. I understand you only work on your own cars, and you surely don’t get much practice doing the brakes, for instance. I don’t do much work on my cars. I think the last time was replacing a front caliper (heavy cast iron, 4 piston) on my 1969 Corvette because the seals were leaking. I used an HF vacuum bleeder.
im about to do my 14... when i saw the hub assembly it made me wonder what im really in for.
I hope this video as helpful in showing you what I went through to replace the front hub assemblies. In another video on my channel, I go through replacing the rear suspension knuckles and pressing in new rear wheel bearings.
2012 caprice with 120k miles having a pulling when I brake at low speeds sometimes to the left sometimes to the right about to look into the issue. Also getting weird wear on my driver front tire on the outside far edge. New tires and it was aligned 500 miles ago
I found that each of my car's front calipers had a one sticking caliper slide pin. That can cause uneven brake pad wear or uneven braking effectiveness which might result in a pulling to one side or the other.
The uneven tire wear can be from a worn front hub bearing or your car may still be misaligned. Many Chevy SS owners would get their cars aligned (after the electric power steering recall for example) and a 4-wheel alignment was performed only to result in poor steering or handling after the work was done. Sometimes, it was found the tech loaded the wrong alignment specs into the alignment machine or the tech only did a front wheel alignment instead of a 4-wheel alignment.
@@RetroCarGuy530 removed the tire today the inside and outside of the tire are severely cupped hub assembly was fine no play and no noise. Hoping it is the front strut/strut mount
I’ve ordered the exact set you have but my oem front calipers didnt fit the pads and rotors. The 2014 caprice i have has 321mm rotors from the factory, the new rotors are 345mm.
I am thinking of ordering caprice PPV calipers. DO you think this will work? Is that all I need to change?
If yes could you share the part number of front right and left calipers. Thanks
I'm sorry you're having a problem fitting the brakes on the front of your Caprice. I just reverified the part number info I placed in the video's description section for the Power Stop K5948 kit (front). It does contain rotors with a 345mm diameter. Every part listing I can find shows that the 2011-2017 Caprice front rotors are 345mm rotors.
I'm unsure why your Caprice had 321mm rotors instead of what looks like factory 345mm rotors.
If you want to pursue getting Caprice calipers, my best suggestion would be go to Rock Auto's website and use that as a good reference for potential new calipers and likely you'll need new caliper mounting brakes as well (which some of the offerings on Rock Auto include the brackets).
Robert, a question on the front brakes. I really enjoy your videos: the thoughtful and measured presentation, plus the layman’s explanations when needed. I have been trying to chase down a rattling noise in my front brakes. Entering a driveway with the standard 1-1 1/2” edge and foot off the brakes there is some sort of rattling sound from the front. Foot lightly on the brakes, and there is no noise. At the 8:30 point in this video you replace the stainless steel brake pad clips. Is there any type of anti rattle kit you added here, or do those stainless clips serve as the anti rattle mechanism? DGBryan
Those stainless steel clips are meant to provide a smooth surface for the edge of the brake pad backing plates to slide in/out as necessary. There is a small amount of tension provided by the clips that will tend to hold the pads ever so slightly and yes that can prevent rattling of the brake pads. Make sure that your installation has the stainless steel clips in place on both the top and bottom. Those stainless steel clips are usually provided with the brake pads and should be replaced each time the brake pads are replaced.
Another thing to look for would be the caliper slide pins and whether one or both of them are seized preventing the caliper from moving enough to keep an even pressure on the backside of the brake pad backing plates. I found one pin seized on each side of my 14 Caprice. I cleaned them in the video and reused them, but later on I purchased a set of new caliper slide pins and rubber pieces to replace the ones in the video to make sure there was no reason for the calipers not to slide like it should in/out as the brakes are applied and the pads wear down (normally).
I hope that helps!
@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks for the quick reply. I picked up the hardware kit today and finished the passenger side. Judging by the amount of A double S it took to remove the passenger caliper bracket bolts I would bet they had never been removed. I followed your methodology to verify the correct clips. Replaced the rubber boots after verifying the caliper pins were lubricated and not corroded like 2 of yours. Fingers crossed for the test drive after finishing the driver's side in the morning. Knuckle skin intact so far: a tribute to your detailed video tutorial. DGBryan
Did your front brake rattle go away?
@@RetroCarGuy530 Unfortunately no. The caliper slide pins were free and lubricated, the new caliper hardware clips were twins to the old ones, so there is still something right in front of me that I have not seen yet. Entering my driveway the noise is the most noticeable. The sway bar bushings were replaced within the last 12 months and their brackets are tight. The next two items of interest are the steering shaft from the firewall to the rack and pinion, and then the rack mounting itself. Thanks for inquiring. These cars are a blast to drive, they are FAST and QUICK. As you document, they will try your patience at time. I have read many gripes about the 6.0l, but mine is about the smoothest idling and running engine I have had in years Now if I can just get the brakes to cooperate. Have a good holiday season. Looking forward to your channed next year !!!
Robert, this is DGBryan. I use my wife's email account and this is on my daughter's computer, hence all the ladies pictures showing up in the comments. I'm sure either one or both will tell me EXACTLY what I did wrong with the Caprice! :))))
Need list ever thing u used and change. Name and more
I added a "Part Info" section to the video description section with the major items I used in this video for the wheel hub assemblies and the front/rear brakes.