You bet, it was a pain in the ass. I replaced the broken wires with a soft silicon covered wire, removed the goo which caused the wires to stick together, instead of the wires "rolling" with the throttle movement it was bending causing it to break. After many hours of Elite all is still well. I also fixed the friction nut adding a washer below the beveled gear which kept slipping and did not made contact with the turning knob gear. I used earbuds to clean out the goo and had enough cleaning cloth to wipe my hands; it is very sticky. The goo is used to give the dampening effect of the throttle. Use silicone gell instead.
Great video thanks for putting it up, my 3rd X55 (technically my 2nd, long story), has started doing this after just 6months just like the other 2 units before it, so I disassembled my original throttle as I still had it (Saitek said I could keep it), and discovered it has this exact problem. I've been hunting around trying to find the part numbers of the connectors used at each end of the loom as I'd really like to avoid soldering onto those shoddy wires and do a proper fix. Don't suppose you have any clue what they are? I've found out the part numbers for the small switches used by the various hats, so for those that are also failing I can eventually fix them, but I'm not going to bother unless I can successfully sort out this wiring first.
I think they are JST type connectors: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector, I don't know which type. They are cheap enough on ebay but the trick will be finding one with nice and flexible wires. You will still need to do some soldering since throttle 1 does not have connectors on both ends.
I had the same issue - it is the goo that dampen the throttle movement (the friction brake does not really work) that keep the wiring stiff and eventually it snaps. I had it rewired with a very soft silicone wire and use only silicone gel on the inside. The throttle is not so stiff anymore and after a year still in excellent condition. The joystick is another issue and would like to know where I can get some spare parts - the tacktile feel of the some of the hats is not working anymore.
Thanks. My X55 had an intermittent switch from day 1, now I know why. I bet the wire is broken and sometimes it makes contact but most of the time it doesn't.
Opened it, the wires were fine, no breaks or stripped insulation but a blue crimped wire was sticking out of it's connector. I just pushed it in and the toggle switch works fine now. The wires in mine are also too stiff, they should use flexible multicore copper wires instead.
This is ridiculous. I just bought mine and I'm already having problems with it like shown here. The "Ghosting" having random control inputs show through. I'm seriously debating just packing it up, sending it back as non-functional and getting the Warthog HOTAS. I don't know if it's much better, it's certainly twice the price.... I don't really know what better options exist out there. All I know is that it's ridiculous that a person has to do this to keep their very new piece of equipment functioning.
Most likely I'm late, but ghosting issues on a new X-55 are usually fixed by connecting it through a usb hub with separate power. The standard usb voltage sometimes is not enough for it.
MadCatz pulled a fast one. They must have known they were going under, cheaped out on parts for another assembly push, got em out the door, then sold to logitech. I'm so bummed mine has finally gotten so bad I can't even ignore it anymore! 200 USD for an otherwise good HOTAS that is about sure to fail in a year as a street hooker is to get pumped in vegas. Thanks for the vid though. Was nice to see another asshole like me out there, crazy enough to attempt a repair on this hydra :P
The wiring problems were not an issue with the first runs of X55 when Saitek was it's own independent company. More problems started when Madcatz acquired Saitek and started substituting internal components and wiring would be where the corners would be cut. Logitech has since purchased Saitek from Madcatz and I have more faith in their quality control than Madcatz consistently poor quality control. My original early generation Saitek X55 lasted me over 6 years and now it's experiencing driver updating issues. I am blaming that particular problem on poor USB connection from inside the HOTAS joystick cable.
It pisses me off to pay so much for a HOTAS only to end up with an issue like this. I'm not yet sure what is happening to my throttle but I'm losing buttons etc 1 by 1 over a short period of time. I can only assume that it is something stupid like this. Giant Piss Off. WTG no tech support MadCatz. There should be a Complete Recall or Free Replacement.
Well the good news is if you know how to solder it's fixable. I've not had any problems at all since I fixed it a year ago. It's a giant pain in the ass though. The interesting thing is the stick itself is much better designed in this respect, and does not suffer the same problem, so it's not like they don't know how to design properly.
SOLVED (for me): Using VKB I managed to replicate & represent the ghost inputs on the following: Hotas x56 Logitech Ghosting found: MOBO: x570 Asus Tuf - Rear IO Panel USB 3.0 & 3.2 All port tested. Minimal port usage (keyboard mouse required) & Powered via PSU PCI expansion: Cruxtec PV3-7U 7 Ports USB3.0 All 7 ports no load still ghosted. Resolution: Finally over a 20min testing period with random throttle inputs and low lighting the front IO on my PC case connected via headers showed 0 ghosting over the test period. Both 2 Front were in use with on Throttle and Stick respectively. VBK joy tester is an excellent way to prove your issue to Logitech if this does not resolve your issue as ghost button presses do not have 2 strokes sometimes. IE just down not up again. Hope this helps peeps.
Hi, My X55 have same issue... Today I started the repair, but unfortunately I cut all the cables first and now I don't know how to connect them together. Could you help me with this? In the base there is connector with 14 wires - there are 7 pair. Every pair has its own colour. Now on the other side I've got only cables in same colours. Question is how to connect it together. I tried to connect same colour to the same colour but it didn't work. Another problem is that every colour has 2 combinations and we have 7 pair so... I'm stack without some diagram or help.
Has anyone figured out what gauge wire connectors those silver ones are that go into the white connector? I want to replace all of the wires but cant figure out what female connectors i need.
Great video mate, I have an X52 Pro and when I bought it, I only used it a hand full of times and had the very same problem with the throttle axis effecting other axis, I had it replaced by madcatz who owned Saitek at the time but they just sent me something equally as bad, it had other issues, one of which was a grounding issue that I sorted myself, then recently with a few month of use, it's doing what yours is doing again. It's absolute rubbish. Absolutely poor quality build.
sucks paying over $200 for something and have it start messing up after a couple months. and like the entire internet says "jUsT usE a pOwErEd hUB" but it does absolutely nothing to fix the issue
Ive got ghosting inputs on my Thrustmaster Warthog joystick, throttle is fine... sigh Took apart the whole base and no visible issues so might be something in the stick itself, does anyone make a good reliable joystick, I have had this for two or more years but for the price id expect to get 10 years at least.
I found that using a USB 3.1(NOT a 3.0) completely removed my ghost input issues with my X56 throttle, so it's worth a shot for your stick. You can buy USB 3.1 PCIE cards on amazon for less than $30. If your motherboard has a 3.1 port, I wouldn't recommend using it because most motherboards(even my $500 one) are shitty at power management with USB, meanwhile a PCIE USB 3.1 is its own bus and gets more than enough power from the PCIE slot.
HELP ME DUDE . MY STICK IS NOT BEING RECOGNISED LOOKING FAULTY...... COULD I FIX MYSELF ANY IDEA WHY .. IT LIGHTS UP FOR A SECOND THEN ITS UNRECOGNISED TRIED ALL USB STUFF ITS DEFO A FAULTY
Thank you! Your movie just saved my X55.
You bet, it was a pain in the ass. I replaced the broken wires with a soft silicon covered wire, removed the goo which caused the wires to stick together, instead of the wires "rolling" with the throttle movement it was bending causing it to break. After many hours of Elite all is still well. I also fixed the friction nut adding a washer below the beveled gear which kept slipping and did not made contact with the turning knob gear. I used earbuds to clean out the goo and had enough cleaning cloth to wipe my hands; it is very sticky. The goo is used to give the dampening effect of the throttle. Use silicone gell instead.
Great video thanks for putting it up, my 3rd X55 (technically my 2nd, long story), has started doing this after just 6months just like the other 2 units before it, so I disassembled my original throttle as I still had it (Saitek said I could keep it), and discovered it has this exact problem.
I've been hunting around trying to find the part numbers of the connectors used at each end of the loom as I'd really like to avoid soldering onto those shoddy wires and do a proper fix. Don't suppose you have any clue what they are?
I've found out the part numbers for the small switches used by the various hats, so for those that are also failing I can eventually fix them, but I'm not going to bother unless I can successfully sort out this wiring first.
I think they are JST type connectors: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JST_connector, I don't know which type. They are cheap enough on ebay but the trick will be finding one with nice and flexible wires. You will still need to do some soldering since throttle 1 does not have connectors on both ends.
I had the same issue - it is the goo that dampen the throttle movement (the friction brake does not really work) that keep the wiring stiff and eventually it snaps. I had it rewired with a very soft silicone wire and use only silicone gel on the inside. The throttle is not so stiff anymore and after a year still in excellent condition. The joystick is another issue and would like to know where I can get some spare parts - the tacktile feel of the some of the hats is not working anymore.
I assume its the same happening to the X56, they use cheap cabeling that only lasts you 1-2 years of medium use
Thanks. My X55 had an intermittent switch from day 1, now I know why. I bet the wire is broken and sometimes it makes contact but most of the time it doesn't.
Opened it, the wires were fine, no breaks or stripped insulation but a blue crimped wire was sticking out of it's connector. I just pushed it in and the toggle switch works fine now. The wires in mine are also too stiff, they should use flexible multicore copper wires instead.
This is ridiculous. I just bought mine and I'm already having problems with it like shown here. The "Ghosting" having random control inputs show through. I'm seriously debating just packing it up, sending it back as non-functional and getting the Warthog HOTAS. I don't know if it's much better, it's certainly twice the price.... I don't really know what better options exist out there. All I know is that it's ridiculous that a person has to do this to keep their very new piece of equipment functioning.
Most likely I'm late, but ghosting issues on a new X-55 are usually fixed by connecting it through a usb hub with separate power. The standard usb voltage sometimes is not enough for it.
if you want better option check out winwing super taurus throttle. its best of the line
@@mikkihintikka7273 Thanks to both of you for the input! I'll check out this other joystick and see what it's about.
MadCatz pulled a fast one. They must have known they were going under, cheaped out on parts for another assembly push, got em out the door, then sold to logitech. I'm so bummed mine has finally gotten so bad I can't even ignore it anymore! 200 USD for an otherwise good HOTAS that is about sure to fail in a year as a street hooker is to get pumped in vegas. Thanks for the vid though. Was nice to see another asshole like me out there, crazy enough to attempt a repair on this hydra :P
I just finished wiping off that nasty adhesive. It got all over the outside after doing this, probably 7 years ago. Im sloppy :(
The wiring problems were not an issue with the first runs of X55 when Saitek was it's own independent company. More problems started when Madcatz acquired Saitek and started substituting internal components and wiring would be where the corners would be cut. Logitech has since purchased Saitek from Madcatz and I have more faith in their quality control than Madcatz consistently poor quality control. My original early generation Saitek X55 lasted me over 6 years and now it's experiencing driver updating issues. I am blaming that particular problem on poor USB connection from inside the HOTAS joystick cable.
do you have the version number?
@@DDaoust429 V1
It pisses me off to pay so much for a HOTAS only to end up with an issue like this. I'm not yet sure what is happening to my throttle but I'm losing buttons etc 1 by 1 over a short period of time. I can only assume that it is something stupid like this. Giant Piss Off. WTG no tech support MadCatz. There should be a Complete Recall or Free Replacement.
Well the good news is if you know how to solder it's fixable. I've not had any problems at all since I fixed it a year ago. It's a giant pain in the ass though. The interesting thing is the stick itself is much better designed in this respect, and does not suffer the same problem, so it's not like they don't know how to design properly.
my duel throttle isnt working.. if im in DCS i look town at my f18 and you see the right side throttle going rapidly all over the place
SOLVED (for me):
Using VKB I managed to replicate & represent the ghost inputs on the following:
Hotas x56 Logitech
Ghosting found:
MOBO: x570 Asus Tuf - Rear IO Panel
USB 3.0 & 3.2 All port tested. Minimal port usage (keyboard mouse required)
&
Powered via PSU PCI expansion: Cruxtec PV3-7U 7 Ports USB3.0
All 7 ports no load still ghosted.
Resolution:
Finally over a 20min testing period with random throttle inputs and low lighting the front IO on my PC case connected via headers showed 0 ghosting over the test period.
Both 2 Front were in use with on Throttle and Stick respectively.
VBK joy tester is an excellent way to prove your issue to Logitech if this does not resolve your issue as ghost button presses do not have 2 strokes sometimes. IE just down not up again.
Hope this helps peeps.
Hi, My X55 have same issue... Today I started the repair, but unfortunately I cut all the cables first and now I don't know how to connect them together. Could you help me with this? In the base there is connector with 14 wires - there are 7 pair. Every pair has its own colour. Now on the other side I've got only cables in same colours. Question is how to connect it together. I tried to connect same colour to the same colour but it didn't work. Another problem is that every colour has 2 combinations and we have 7 pair so... I'm stack without some diagram or help.
You could at least determine which wire is ground and power, eliminate 2 of the 14...
Has anyone figured out what gauge wire connectors those silver ones are that go into the white connector? I want to replace all of the wires but cant figure out what female connectors i need.
Great video mate, I have an X52 Pro and when I bought it, I only used it a hand full of times and had the very same problem with the throttle axis effecting other axis, I had it replaced by madcatz who owned Saitek at the time but they just sent me something equally as bad, it had other issues, one of which was a grounding issue that I sorted myself, then recently with a few month of use, it's doing what yours is doing again. It's absolute rubbish. Absolutely poor quality build.
sucks paying over $200 for something and have it start messing up after a couple months. and like the entire internet says "jUsT usE a pOwErEd hUB" but it does absolutely nothing to fix the issue
Thanks a lot man,
Hello, I need help on this hotas. Can you help me ???
Ive got ghosting inputs on my Thrustmaster Warthog joystick, throttle is fine... sigh
Took apart the whole base and no visible issues so might be something in the stick itself, does anyone make a good reliable joystick, I have had this for two or more years but for the price id expect to get 10 years at least.
I found that using a USB 3.1(NOT a 3.0) completely removed my ghost input issues with my X56 throttle, so it's worth a shot for your stick. You can buy USB 3.1 PCIE cards on amazon for less than $30. If your motherboard has a 3.1 port, I wouldn't recommend using it because most motherboards(even my $500 one) are shitty at power management with USB, meanwhile a PCIE USB 3.1 is its own bus and gets more than enough power from the PCIE slot.
whats the good type of wire to have for this?
I think any thin wire (24 gauge or more) will be fine. Silicone insulation is probably best.
iluvtocnc thx brou
HELP ME DUDE . MY STICK IS NOT BEING RECOGNISED LOOKING FAULTY...... COULD I FIX MYSELF ANY IDEA WHY .. IT LIGHTS UP FOR A SECOND THEN ITS UNRECOGNISED TRIED ALL USB STUFF ITS DEFO A FAULTY
Uh... have you tried plugging it into a powered USB hub? Other than that I have no idea.