Well done, video is spot on and no BS!! The JL/JT set up is much better than the JK’s, especially the rear calipers…the JK’s has much smaller rear pads that only last 25-30k miles. This dual piston caliper set up is a huge upgrade!!
Because of the E brake it's a different animal. I've seen on other Jeeps where it's required to go into the Uconnect menu and click on "brake service" before doing any work.
Great video thanks! But when did rotors become a ware item like pads. since I got my JL almost every pad kit has rotors. Even the JK only had upgraded replacment rotors, now everyone is selling more rotors than pads.
Be sure to add a bit about drilling out the retaining screw as they NEVER come out that easy. Pot metal and the T30 torx strips it in 1 second. Also, show which way the wear indicators go (you can just barely see in this).
The rear Mopar brake pads I ordered for my JL Wrangler (Sport S) came with 2 shims for each pad (1 shim is shiny metal on both sides and the other shim is shiny on one side and black on the other). Am I supposed to use both shims for each pad? I guess I'll find out when I disassemble the existing brakes, but it would be nice to know in advance.
A number of factors come in to play to indicate when it's time to replace your brake rotors. If you noticed squealing or grinding noises when braking, or the rotors have developed deep groves, or it's taking more distance and time to stop, it could be an indication to replace your rotor.
Curious, I don’t like the amount of brake dust the OEN pads give off, is there another pad that has or give the same thickness and stopping power without or with minimal brake dust? Like maybe a ceramic brake pads? I’ve used similar ones for a different vehicle by STOPTECH, they were great, but I now have a Jeep and don’t know if they make them for Jeeps.
Why the heck did Jeep decide to use a Torx head on these screws? I've never seen a hand impact screwdriver with a Torx head attachment (at the hardware store anyway). Definitely use a coating of anti seize if ya'll decide to put these back on. You will thank yourself later.
When torqued to 148 the bottom bolt actually touched the rotor and caused damage. When trying to back it out the bolt broke. Great video but the torque must be incorrect.
Is there any substantial difference between the process here and for a 2010 JK Rubicon? Rear rotors and pads a similar process? Thanks for the great videos?
If I’m not mistaken he used a c clamp and forced the caliper back without the need to open the bleed valve on the back to relieve pressure. If you open the bleed valve I believe this allows air inside the lines and then you would need to bleed the system to ensure there was no air. He basically forced the caliper back into position instead of moving it back the easy way.
This video name should be changed to front brakes only. There are different torque specs for the rear and from looking at the comments it seems some people are destroying their rear caliper adapters assuming the instructions are the same.
Looks like rear torque specs are different than the front. While Front caliper adapter bolt is 148ft lbs, the rear is only 74ft lbs. Did you torque to 148? thats twice as much force and likely caused it to crack.
26 FT-LB with 10mm socket and 74 FT-LB on the larger bolts with 18mm socket. This is on my 392 XR so if your bolts take a different socket size, these torque specs are not for yours.
This is the kind of video we need for all the DIY people out there, thanks, keep them coming!
Hope this is helpful for you!
Of course! We'll make sure we continue to do these for you!
Been a mechanic for 50+ years and couldn't say it better myself! Nice job!
This channel maintains such great quality! Great edits and a perfect host, keep up the great work!
Thanks!!
Well done, video is spot on and no BS!! The JL/JT set up is much better than the JK’s, especially the rear calipers…the JK’s has much smaller rear pads that only last 25-30k miles. This dual piston caliper set up is a huge upgrade!!
Very helpful. I bought my basic willys jl to get more into doing my own maintenance gonna be tackling this this weekend
Awesome video, explained really well!! I'm a nube and after watching the video I feel confident enough to try it.
Great informative video!
Glad you liked it.
Is it the same process for the rear pads/rotors?
Because of the E brake it's a different animal. I've seen on other Jeeps where it's required to go into the Uconnect menu and click on "brake service" before doing any work.
Thanks for posting!
Of course!
Anytime!
Idea for the next edition of Quadratec Academy: installing a winch.
Need to see a closeup of the clips with the return spring. The pads aren’t pushing away from the rotor. Something isn’t right here.
Did you figure it out
Same issue here. Not sure what is the problem.
Similar, same, or different procedure for the rear pads/rotors ???
Thanks for this video, Rob excellent host/installer, as usual...
I was wondering the same thing. On some vehicles you need a special tool to turn the rear caliper pistons back in. 🤷🏻♂️
Great video thanks! But when did rotors become a ware item like pads. since I got my JL almost every pad kit has rotors. Even the JK only had upgraded replacment rotors, now everyone is selling more rotors than pads.
Be sure to add a bit about drilling out the retaining screw as they NEVER come out that easy. Pot metal and the T30 torx strips it in 1 second. Also, show which way the wear indicators go (you can just barely see in this).
The rear Mopar brake pads I ordered for my JL Wrangler (Sport S) came with 2 shims for each pad (1 shim is shiny metal on both sides and the other shim is shiny on one side and black on the other). Am I supposed to use both shims for each pad? I guess I'll find out when I disassemble the existing brakes, but it would be nice to know in advance.
I have the same problem as others that brake pads don’t push away from the rotors. Can you show real good close up of the brake pads and clips?
Great video as always Rob! When do I need replace the rotors as opposed to just the brake pads.
A number of factors come in to play to indicate when it's time to replace your brake rotors. If you noticed squealing or grinding noises when braking, or the rotors have developed deep groves, or it's taking more distance and time to stop, it could be an indication to replace your rotor.
is it the same for a Jimmy 2016 thank you for the video!
Curious, I don’t like the amount of brake dust the OEN pads give off, is there another pad that has or give the same thickness and stopping power without or with minimal brake dust? Like maybe a ceramic brake pads? I’ve used similar ones for a different vehicle by STOPTECH, they were great, but I now have a Jeep and don’t know if they make them for Jeeps.
I’m assuming it’s the same for the rear brakes as well?
Had the same question, was hoping you got the answer
No, different torque specs for the caliper adapter bolts.
Yes, not NOT over torque the retaining screw, I don't put them back in myself, as they are not necessary.
Why the heck did Jeep decide to use a Torx head on these screws? I've never seen a hand impact screwdriver with a Torx head attachment (at the hardware store anyway). Definitely use a coating of anti seize if ya'll decide to put these back on. You will thank yourself later.
When torqued to 148 the bottom bolt actually touched the rotor and caused damage. When trying to back it out the bolt broke. Great video but the torque must be incorrect.
Was this just on the rear caliper? It looks like torque spec is different for front (148ft. lbs) and rear (74 ft. lbs)
Is there any substantial difference between the process here and for a 2010 JK Rubicon? Rear rotors and pads a similar process? Thanks for the great videos?
Happy New Year in advance. JKs use small clips on each stud to hold the rotor in place while the JL uses a screw. Otherwise it seems mostly the same.
@@attnielthomas7856 Awesome! Thank you.
What abrge rear parking reak
How about bleeding the system after all is done?
If I’m not mistaken he used a c clamp and forced the caliper back without the need to open the bleed valve on the back to relieve pressure. If you open the bleed valve I believe this allows air inside the lines and then you would need to bleed the system to ensure there was no air. He basically forced the caliper back into position instead of moving it back the easy way.
This video name should be changed to front brakes only. There are different torque specs for the rear and from looking at the comments it seems some people are destroying their rear caliper adapters assuming the instructions are the same.
My rear brake caliper bracket broke into pieces somehow. I've never seen this happen on any other car. Makes me question Mopar parts quality.
Looks like rear torque specs are different than the front. While Front caliper adapter bolt is 148ft lbs, the rear is only 74ft lbs. Did you torque to 148? thats twice as much force and likely caused it to crack.
@@dustdisciples I didn't torque anything. I bought it new and haven't touched the brakes at all.
Why are all these youtube videos front only? I need the torque specs for the back and they're smaller bolts, therefore less torque.
I made a video which shows both front and back, with torque specs.
@@CheaperJeeperTV finally found them, thanks.
@@naamangeist7843 Cheers
@@naamangeist7843What is the rear torque spec? Can you share here?
26 FT-LB with 10mm socket and 74 FT-LB on the larger bolts with 18mm socket. This is on my 392 XR so if your bolts take a different socket size, these torque specs are not for yours.
How often are brake pads and rotors need to be replaced?
I heard the brake pads on the Jeep Wrangler JL are heavy duty and can last up to 100,000 thousand miles.
Replacing my fronts today at 50K, running 37's for pretty much all of that mileage.
Are the rears different than the front?
Nvm. I saw your video just now on steel brake lines and saw they are a bit different in the rear
thank you🔥
Issue removing the rotors
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