2006 Lexus IS350 (Gen 2) w/ P0420: Bank 1 Catalytic Converter Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- I got the P0420 error code, found out it wasn't the O2 sensors, and left the error for over a year thinking I couldn't do the job myself (and was too cheap to pay for it). I finally got annoyed enough to try harder and am posting how to help anyone else out there frustrated by the lack of DIY knowledge on the subject (for our vehicle at least). The only other video I saw close to what I needed was an ISF owner who removed the engine: I do this job with a floor jack, jack stands, a creeper, and no engine removal.
O2 Sensors: I tested whether it was O2 sensors by switching them. There are ways to do it with OBD, but I found switching O2 sensors and watching whether the error comes back the same to be the most straight forward.
Cleaning the cat: Before removing the cat, and after the first removal, I tried the classic @scottykilmer methods: running lacquer in the tank and letting it soak in soapy water (in addition to spraying it out with a hose afterwards). I love Scotty's stuff but, for my vehicle, the lacquer didn't work at all, and while the soak and hosing did relieve what seemed like a lot of residue, it only lasted a couple of days: for the frustration of removing and installing this cat, I'd say it's worth coughing up the money the 1st time for a new one, even if you have to get it 2nd hand and Permatex it as I did.
eBay cats: In addition to the 4+ star rated cat I bought having holes and no heat shield tabs, the description stated I would receive both the cat to y-pipe gasket and the engine to manifold gasket. However, the engine to manifold gasket wasn't there. Knowing what I know now, I would probably still suck it up again and buy used to save a couple hundred bucks knowing I had to apply Permatex and use steel cord/a pipe clamp to keep the heat shield in place, but if you want a cat that's just going to work, spend the extra $200 for a product from the dealership.
Further edit: had comment notifications off: sorry to anyone who asked questions in the last 9 months. OEM cats are now about as expensive as the car itself, but the check engine light came back a couple months later, so it's very questionable whether you'd want to get one 2nd hand or not now.
The hardest working youtube mechanic ever 😂.
Your very efficient at just getting the job done ✅ and entertaining 😄
Thanks for not leaving out any of the details, the way you work on cars is hilarious too😂, I be doing the same stuff
Very helpful, I’m planning on replacing my whole catylic converter set pretty soon 👍🏼
Omg, Great video!! This was very useful. Me and my fiancé have been searching for a video for over a year for a video like this to replace both of our vehicles cats and no luck. Our car just been sitting for the time being. Are you able to make a video or describe how to remove bank 2 also please.
Same shit
Sorry, haven't needed to replace Bank 2, but it manages to look even harder to get to.
Nicely done
I feel your pain n struggles people don't understand all tthe troubles n struggles us men go threw n deal with our 🚗 n how hard wanna save time n extra 💰 shop repairs ttoo dam high tthese days 💪💪💪💪🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm replacing bank 1 and bank 2 secondary catalytic converter with the complete y pipe and resonator. Direct replacement non OEM stainless steel $540 from Canada. OEM is $2500. 2011 Lexus is250 awd
Thank you.
How about the driver side exhaust pipe?
Good video I appreciate it 👍
If I can help at least one person, I'm glad.
Should I try to change the sensor first before changing the converter???
The shop I took mine to said the Lexus cat was $1500 and offered an afternarket one for $800 which I got. With labor I think it cost $1200. But when the weather is cold and I make short trips in a row the engine light comes on, but will eventually go off. I think the cat doesn't warm up fast enough. I wonder if they installed the heat shields. I'll have to check.
For my former Prelude I bought a cat from Autozone for $100 with a lifetime warranty. Every couple of years I would have them give me a new one. It was much easier to replace than this...
You think if I just get aftermarket headers it will solve the problem ?
Was it really necessary to drop the complete exhaust system?
Technically, you're not dropping the whole exhaust system, just the Y-pipe which happens to be huge. To get the cat out any other way would prove more laborious: it's really not a bad part of the job.
Po420 on my awd IS250. I bought it with a hole in the exhaust before the catalytic converter. Once a muffler shop welded some new pipes on, I've been getting this code like once a month. Would that hole in the exhaust cause the converter to go bad? And would a bad converter also cause your car to run rich? Thank you for the video
They didn't replace the whole exhaust, just welded new pipes on the sections where the old pipe were really bad.
@@AustinsCoins Based on what you're saying, I'd guess the cat was already going bad. 1) If your manifold developed a hole before the cat (from rust or other corrosion I'm assuming), it was already pretty aged. 2) A hole (depending on the size) before the cat could give a false impression of a working cat as the upstream O2 sensor would taking a reading of X pollutants, the exhaust would escape, and the downstream sensor would read Y pollutants, with Y being less than X, making it seem like the cat worked. Once it was fixed, the exhaust couldn't escape before the cat, and the downstream O2 sensor would read Z pollutants, with X and Z being about the same and causing P0420.
I haven't studied running lean vs rich a lot, but if your cat has truly gone bad, I don't think it would cause it to run rich. More likely, something else might be causing the car to run rich and the catalytic converter went bad faster because of it. I know my car eats through oil and I've seen other people make similar complaints about our Year/Make/Model. Because it's a common complaint, I'm guessing the engine itself has a flaw that becomes prevalent after so many miles (some sort of seal deep in the engine going bad) and for some of us it ends up killing the cat as the exhaust has extra fuel and possibly even oil in it, but that's just a theory: I've never taken the time to investigate.
@@kobiecloud7 Thank you for replying! It's not burning any oil surprisingly but I do change it every 3k miles which is early. So maybe at 5k it would burn some. I'll probably replace the cat and I'm thinking the spark plugs are worn causing it to run rich. In the service history it doesn't show it being done and it's almost at 151k miles.
@@AustinsCoins I think mine only shows low oil after 3K, so you might be right: I'm just too cheap to change it earlier than 5K.
Even though you didn't ask, I'll tell you some spark plug stuff since I've done them a couple times and haven't made a video in case you haven't done them on this vehicle before:
1) It's a pretty simple job, you'll just want to have the right tools, which includes some long allen wrenches/ratchet heads to remove the intake manifold (you can also change the intake manifold gasket while it's off if you want), a pretty long ratchet extension to reach the plugs inside the cylinders (I think I bought either a 12 or 18in extension for the job), and a spark plug ratchet head (similar to a normal long ratchet head but has rubberized grip on the inside).
2) Getting the plugs out is easy, but getting them IN is tricky because the rubberized spark plug ratchet head wants to stick, and if it sticks enough, it'll come off your ratchet extension instead of coming off the plug, and then you'll have to shove the extension in blindly to try getting it back on just to have it fail again. So before putting the new spark plug in your ratchet head, put a grocery bag over the head. The spark plug will still stick to the head through the bag, but once you've tightened it in, you hold onto the bag while taking your ratchet off, and the bag, assuming it doesn't rip (mine didn't), will ensure you pull the ratchet head out instead of it popping off.
Is the driver side easier?
Is this the same as the is250? I plan on getting an 2010 250
Likely. Most all jobs I've seen are about the same for the two.
How much do you think it’ll cost if I were to take it to a mechanic to do this?
Google search says 1-2.5K. You could probably call for a more sure estimate. Lexus dealership will probably be the most expensive.
Did it take you a long time?
Probably 4-6 hours
Is it possible to know if its the 02 sensor or the cat itself or using a catalytic cleaner? Just recently got the car so a bit of a noobie
It is. I just switch the sensor with a new one and run it a while. If it comes back, probably the cat. You can be a bit more sure and faster by using a volt meter I think, but I've never taken the time to learn that because I haven't found great videos on it.
I wasn't gonna say anything about where to buy O2 sensors because you took the comment down, but since you stated you're new to this I'll note I generally buy my parts in an auto store instead of online. Online can be cheaper, but too often in car work you'll buy a part and end up either not needing it or being the wrong model/size and you'll end up paying shipping back and a restock fee and you'll be waiting to finish your work while the parts ship.
@@kobiecloud7 right now i’m doing the Scotty Kilmer, Lacquer Thinner trick and see if that gets fixed, yea how much did the 02 sensors for? also if i do get the cat do you think I should get aftermarket or OEM, my car is a lexus is350 2006 with only 88k miles the reason why I got the code is because last owner didn’t use premium fuel which i guess lead to buildup
My code shows BANK1 so that means I don’t need the get the Y correct? Just the passenger like your video?
@@ViisionPvP you'll have to shop around for O2 sensor prices, but I'd do OEM cat: within the past couple weeks my P0420 has intermittently showed up and gone away again and I'm putting blame on the aftermarket cat based on how poor the welding was. I assume the core was used and somewhat refurbished but not nearly to the extent it should have been for the trouble it takes to change it out.
Is this a AWD model? everyone keeps telling me I can't remove the cats without touching the axels, and I don't believe it.
You and I will both have to remove an axle to complete.
This one's RWD. No idea about AWD.
I just replaced the bank 1 cat on my AWD, no need to pull the axle, can't comment on the driver's side.
I have a p0420 bank 1 code on my 07 GS350, which 02sensors do you recommend switching?
1) If the O2 sensor is the issue, it's likely a downstream one (further from the engine and, luckily, easier to get to). It's the first two I take out on the video. 2) Switch them, clear your error with OBDII reader, and run again till it comes back: if it changed to bank 2 (P0430), it's the O2 sensor. 3) While I'm not familiar with the GS, I'd assume your banks are the same: bank 1=passenger side, bank 2=drivers side. The numbering is based on engine cylinder firing order: cylinder 1 (the first to fire) dictates bank 1, and the other side is bank 2.
Researching your banks might lead to conflicting information, so just be sure to hold on to the sensor you replace for a while to make sure you don't throw away a good one.
@@kobiecloud7 the gs350 is the same engine/trans setup as the is350. It should be the same as this video.
@@kobiecloud7 I have p0420 and p0430. Would u reccomend the cat or the 02 sensor. Ls460 (08)
@@showrunner2183 I'd always suggest the O2 sensors first: cheaper, faster, and even if it ends up being the cats, I think it's worth getting new sensors for the new cats anyway.
@@kobiecloud7 thanks. So it’s the drivers side cat. Is that the upstream or downstream sensor?
I did this job on my IS350 when I replaced the factory manifold with PPE headers and repositioned the cats as to not get any Check Engine Light.
Pain in the butt to do....on stands in my garage like you did.
Being RHD the left side was a horror to get at......
ruclips.net/video/MSSdRRY9fGo/видео.html
How much did pay for cats
I think like $300? It was second hand off ebay, but the light came back on a few months later, so I'd be careful with the 2nd hand "refurbished" ones.
I have bank 2 tho? 2 next ? Haha
Seems even worse: you'll need to make a video for that!
6:55 "some sort of sensor" its the maf sensor you dipstick!
8:11 "I don't know what this actually does" you dipstick, it's a purge solenoid!!
8:14 "but fluid didn't come out" yeah no stick! Only thing going through there is fumes! And make sure you don't crack it so you don't get a vacuum leak! That hose is past the maf sensor! Unmonitored air!!! You dipstick! You're gonna get a p0330 and think it's your spark plugs when it clearly says RANDOM MISFIRE!!!
8:24 "That one is actually your gas line" ummm NO BUDDY. THAT'S YOUR FUEL RETURN LINE! YOU DIPSTICK!
Ok I'm sorry for being mean can u plz make vid for bank 2 plllzzz 🥺🥹🥺🥺
Please I'm sorry...