Thanks for the video. Wish you'd have shown removing the back two pins. I'm getting ready to tackle this but saw on a different video that they are pins more than screws.
It's funny, the second oil change I had problems with the two back fasteners. I was in a hurry and let the oil run down the pan with a plastic bag to catch the oil and run it into a pan. I need to re-examine those for the next oil change.
Well... Looking at the comment section would have saved me some time and hassle. Yeah, couldn't figure out the back pins so propped the oil bowl on the panel and let it fill at an angle.
Awesome video Dave, may i add a few points: 1. The panel that is removed under your car is secured with plastic pins (the majority however are indeed Phillip screws "plus sign") which DO NOT screw, they simply go in with pressure. To remove them, simply slide a tool underneath them (like a slotted screwdriver "minus sign or hyphen symbol) and pop them out. To re-insert simply push them back in. These can be easily purchased at a home depot type store, or any auto shop likely can just give you some for free if you lose them. 2. There are two things you need to inspect when you remove the drain plug, inspect the ACTUAL PLUG as well as the WASHER "metal ring". Both need to be in good condition, having one or the other worn can lead to leakages after a few hundred km/miles of driving. 3. Always position your oil tray not only beneath the drain plug, but down further a bit, to catch the initial "spurting" out of oil, as seen at 07:48. This also applies to when you remove the filter as depending on the angle of your vehicle, lots, or little oil may creep over the base and drip down the line, oil stains in your garage or driveway are ugly as hell. My Honda dealership charges $90 for an oil change, I can do it in 30 mins for $25 with enough change for a copious amounts of beers. Worth it.
A helpful video, thanks. I've just changed from a 2005 Honda Jazz (Fit in USA) to a 2015 model. From painful experience, I'd recommend putting the filler cap somewhere safe while it's off, such as in the boot (trunk in USA). If it falls or gets knocked off while it's resting on the engine it could be hard to retrieve or even get lost. Rather than jacking up the car, I usually run it up onto home-made wooden ramps - just high enough to give the clearance you need to get underneath.
Call me sloppy if you like! I usually manage to drip oil somewhere. So, I lay an old flattened out cardboard shipping box under the work area to catch any drips. I'm a little too proud of my work to have neighbors see oil stains on the driveway under where I park! LOLIn the past I have recycled the old motor oil by using a blend of it as rust proofing on steel parts of the underbody. It works great. There are complete videos and blogs about that though.
Thanks so much, this video was awesome, no more, no less than needed. That bit of wisdom about keeping a maintenance log was a great addition. Only part you didn't actually show which could mess up a newbie like me was exactly when you reattached the oil nut. Since it's back on in the shot where you remove the oil filter I'm assuming you put it back on as soon as you drain the oil form the oil nut.
Thanks to this video I did this successfully, I didn't have any jacks to lift up the car so had to reach through the front to do everything. Its great the oil filter is so easy to access.
Great video. Good pointers regarding the drain plug location in relation to vehicle angle for proper drainage and re-using the plug washer several times. I've re-used mine as well with no issues.
ive always reused them on hondas to be honest... for 4-5 changes, then replace... ebay you can get crush washers really cheap like 10 for less than $5 delivered. I have a stack of toyota ones but they're smaller.
Just an FYI, filling the filter before installing isn't needed. If it makes you feel better than go for it, but don't stress about it and get oil everywhere. Some new engines have the filter upside down on top of the engine (new subaru engines.) Besides the amount of oil is so little, it's not an issue in small engines. If you just ran the engine before the change, there's still oil clinging to the inside of the engine so you're not really running the engine dry. You'd have to let the engine sit overnight to really get every drop of oil out of the engine.
rather than turning the filter cartridge hand tight, you can turn it just until the seal makes contact, then mark the filter with a line pointing to the front of the car. Then by looking at the line you can see how many turns you make past the contact point. I think its 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn, but don't hold me to that. At 3/4 of a turn, the line would be pointing to the right side of the car.
For cars with the drain plug at the front of the engine - you can jack it up, put it on 2 jack stands, open the plug, then jack it down, continue to let it drain, and then jack it back up again, and put it on 2 jack stands again, and then install the plug? Or you can try to get the plug back into the engine and tighten it while the car is on the ground, and somehow squeezing yourself underneath? What I do is jack up both axles. Requires 4 jack stands. I set the hand brake firmly so the rear wheels can't roll, jack up both front wheels at once with a rolling jack, then set the car down onto 2 jack stands. I place the jack stands at the places under the pinch weld that are reinforced, and where the owner's manual tells you to place the jack that comes with the car. I make sure the car is securely seated on the jack stands, and then I jack up both rear wheels at once, and then set the rear down on jack stands, at the reinforced place on the pinch weld. With just about every car, the car will now be level. Your system: jack an axle up twice, let it down twice. My system, jack an axle up twice, let it down twice. Both involve the same amount of jacking. While I have the car jacked up I look at all 4 brake lines to make sure there are no leaks, spin the wheels and pull in-out to check wheel bearings, etcetera. However you can save some time and labor, if you want to do an oil change only, or don't want to look at the rear wheels and suspension, if you unscrew the drain plug after the front is jacked up, then jack up the rear, and let the car sit for 5-10 minutes on the jack - no jack stands needed at the rear - just do not get under the car to replace the plug until after you let the rear down. Make sure the hand brake is set before jacking the rear down. Having the car sit on the hydraulic jack for 10 minutes won't make any significant difference in how soon jack seals wear out. If anything, you'll have less wear, as you will do less pumping.
just a few points: you should always change the aluminum drain plug crush washer if possible. Also, you should not need an oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter if it was tourqued on correctly during the previous oil change. It should only need 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the block.
+Vincent Martinez With my arthritic hands I now need to use a filter wrench to remove the filters. Its that or take it in to the dealer, and that's not going to happen.
Hello...i like ur video...but i have a honda fit hybrid 2014 new shape and i have been running 95000 km so far...so can u help me,what is z best engine oil for zis kind of vehicle?
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with the GP5. Our Fit has an automatic transmission so there's no manual clutch. I assume your GP5 has a manual transmission. You should check the specs to see if the clutch is cable operated or hydraulic. If it's hydraulic operated there will be fluid to check. My Ford Contour has a hydraulic clutch but it does not have it's own hydraulic circuit it used the hydraulic fluid system from the brakes.
I did some more research. The GP5 is a model of the Fit. I think it's the hybrid model but I don't think Honda sells it in my state. Do you have the 7 speed dual clutch transmission? If so, posting a question on this site might get you an answer to your question: autolanka.com/forums/topic/19003-honda-grace-gearbox-question/ I assume you have an automatic transmission, if so the clutch fluid is the same fluid used in the transmission. My Haines manual shows there's a drain plug near the bottom of the transmission to drain the fluid but an inspection of the transmission reveals there is no drain plug. The fluid will have to be pumped out with a long hose connected to a pump. I plan to do it at about 30,000 miles.
Thanks for the info. I wonder why Honda UK recommendations are 12k miles or 12 months. Some newer cars are 18k. My friends BMW had 235k with longer intervals and the engine was great. He has a Nissan now up to 100k
THANKS! I got a low mileage used 2016 Fit last August. Now I know more about the oil and that Synthetic is a must. Turbo charged engines need Synthetic more I think. Because the oil has to work its way into more places where the turbo charging goes on/ 17mm wrench needed! I rather change it myself. Can you trust the oil change stations to use full synthetic and at 0-20 weight?
@@davidgpo Yeah got CVT on my Fit. I drive gently but I am surprised how fast this little Fit can accelerate. Must be the turbo and the CVT enabling this. I still have not taken it out on the highway to do 70-80 mph. I read that after driving Fit hard for a while you should not just shut it off. That you should let it idle for 3-5 minutes for the oil to get into the turbo area and other areas and grease it.
@@zenzekezenard4269 I've never owned a car with turbo and I wasn't aware that it was offered on a Honda Fit. I have heard that you have to cool it down before you shut it down.
hey good video. quick question... I have a 2015 honda fit as well. my floor jack isn't long enough to reach the jack point in the center of the car. is it safe to jack from the side front tire area? it appears you did that and I believe the owner's manual states it's okay. just double checking, thanks.
When I had my old jack I used to have to use 2 x 4's and 4 x 4's because the jack didn't go high enough. You should be good jacking up on the sub-frame of the the car. Any steel that is too thin such as the steel used for floorboards must be avoided. Jacking on the center line can be tricky as if it's not centered the car can slide off the jack. Be careful!
thanks for responding. I use car ramps for oil changes but needed to get to the jack point for removing tires etc. I'm going to try and use the ramps to get more clearance then see if I can get to the jack point.
Our 2015 Fit requires 0-20W oil. Oil requirements can change from year to year. It's best to check your owners manual. The oil weight is usually printed on the oil filler cap as well. Never use an oil that's not required by the manufacturer as you may damage the engine.
Actually, there IS a central point to jack up this car at the front. It is quite far back, about even with the rear of the front wheels I think. Also, even rolling jacks with very lowest minimum height won't be low enough to be able to slide under the car so that the saddle can be placed under the jack point. To get my jack to reach the center jacking point, I first jack the car at each side jack point behind a front wheel, and then put a piece of 2 by 6 lumber under each wheel. Alternatively I've driven up onto a pair of 2 by 12's I've beveled one end of each of the pieces of lumber to make driving onto it easier. Then with the lumber under the wheels the rolling jack will just make it under the bumper, the saddle will roll past the engine shield, and the saddle will finally reach the car's lift point. Now the jack handle will stick out past the bumper and I will be able to lift the handle an inch or 2 before it strikes the bumper. After 2 or 3 short strokes on the handle I will be able to take longer strokes and finally reach the jacking point with the saddle, and jack up the front of the car. *Very important though:* when you let the front of the car back down, remember to make sure you have those 2 pieces of 2-by lumber are under the front wheels. Forgetting to place the lumber under the wheels may cause some part of the car, such as the engine shield or the engine, to contact the top of the jack before the car's wheels rest on the ground. This could cause damage to the car or the jack or both.
I took the car to a jiffy lube kind of an oil shop. They did not reassemble the plastic cover correctly and while driving on the highway it got ripped apart from the assembly. what function does the splash guard serve? Can I drive without it ? Does it shield the electrical parts from water? how many screws did you say you took out to remove the splash guard ? 8? I found a part on ebay to replace it, but it doesnt come with any hardware :( I have a honda element as well and that one does not have such splash guard but the ground clearance for that car is much higher compare to honda fit.
You should go back to the shop and demand that they take responsibility for the loss of the shield. You can live without it but I figure car companies eliminate as much as possible to save a few cents if they put the shield on it is important. It keeps water and mud from splashing in the engine bay, probably does something with air flow too. The two rear fasteners are the pry out kind, the rest are screws that screw to the side shields, I think there are six of those.
You can get screws at a local junk yard. Just call a few yards and ask if they have the screws. I wouldn't drive without a shield because the honda element it taller and wont scratch on the sidewalk when you drive up your driveway. You can see how many scratches he has on his shield in this video.
I'm wondering about the 6K mile interval with synthetic oil. This seems premature to me. As you stated, the oil called for only comes in a synthetic. I had mine done at a garage and it cost more than a conventional oil change.
I may be changing oil earlier than average but we keep our cars for at least 20 years and we live in a humid climate so I'm comfortable spending a few extra dollars to change the oil more frequently.
These newer engines have tiny oil passages for variable cam timing and such. That's why it's very important to use the oil and SAE weight recommended by the factory.
The honda Fit oil system actually varies the interval depending on your driving habits. People who do a lot of highway are seeing 8k mile + intervals. People in the city are seeing closer to 3k mile. My fiance gets closer to 8k on her Fit.
Yep - As it says in the manual - I drive 500 highway + 100 rural miles (i.e. virtually no stop n go) weekly and I do not get down to 15% until after 10k ( When I do my own change, I use the 15,000-mile rated synthetic as well ). I check my oil regularly just to be safe.
No, I did not modify anything. The reminder comes up around the 5500 mile mark. 6.000 miles is number I pulled out of the air based on speaking to various auto care professionals. Best of luck!
thanks for posting, great job, I learned something - that eight screw/twist splash guard (cover) seems like it complicates things, does syn oil or honda have a time limit for oil changes (like should change the oil if a calendar dates passes with out miles passing?
I wouldn't keep oil in the crankcase for more than 7 or 8 months. Of course that depends on the climate you live in. The subject of oil change intervals creates a lot of debates!
The tow hook is usually affixed to a strong point on the frame or unit body. It's best to check with your dealer Service Manager. Never get underneath a vehicle that is not supported on at least 2 sturdy jackstands properly placed on a body/frame strong point.
When your driving down the highway at high speeds, stones and other debris can fly up into your engine bay and cause damage. The main reason for the tray is to protect your oil pan from scraping the ground.
Capacity on our Fit is 3-1/2 quarts. When I add that amount during an oil change it never goes above the fill mark. Are you using the stock capacity oil filter? I suppose an oil filter smaller than specified can cause a higher reading on the dip stick. The stock filter is so small I don't think you can find one smaller?
Watch the video again. I use a floor jack on the pinch weld under the forward end of the rocker panel and set the car down on a jack stand on the on board end of the lower control arm
Thanks for the video. I really hate that plastic splash guard... been considering two options.. 1) complete removal.... 2) two oval holes cut in the thing with a hole saw and jig saw to remove oil filter and drain oil.... actually, I hate this whole car but selling is not an option right now LOL... anyone else take that thing off completely??
I agree, it's a pain to remove. I think some aviation fasteners that release with a quarter turn would be ideal. I'm keeping the cover on because there must be some benefit for Honda to add $50+ to the cost of the car for such a thing. Splash shield or aerodynamics?
I made a video on how to make a one person brake bleeder. There are several ways to bleed brakes. ruclips.net/video/vCKLfF642Eo/видео.html I haven't tackled replacing the transmission fluid on the Fit. Don't have enough miles on it at this time. It may be a problem as the transmission doesn't have a dip stick and I don't see a drain plug nor a fill plug. I need to do some more research.
thanks for the video, changing the oil in one of these this week. Don't really get these cars... they dont "fit" me lol... im only 6' but can't drive this small thing... not sure why they appeal over a Civic.... anyway I'll get the oil done anyway ;)
I'm 6' too and I was too tall for the car too.....until I discovered the lever on the left side of the drivers seat. You can pump it down to lower the seat. Makes it much more comfortable.
I'm not sure which portion of the video you are referring to? Resetting the "Maintenance Required" light? The MR light is reset with the trip odometer button.
If you read the manual of your "Ford" it probably states 5-6000 mile interval as well even with conventional. oil. The "3 month / 3,000 mile" guideline was started by "quick lube" places to generate $$$.
Mine is a 2013 and at 0% is 2,250 miles ran. There must be something wrong with my car. My oil is not black either. I only drive 10 miles to work and 10 miles back home.
Wished honda made a center jack point like they do on their other cars to make jacking easier. All the Honda's/Acura's I've owned had a center jack point near the front of the car that made it easy to rest the car on jack stands
My owner's manual says that there is no fixed oil change interval in terms of miles. Rather, the computer assesses the kind of driving you have done and turns on the wrench light when 15% of the mileage remains. You should change the oil before the computer reads 0%. Also, I've heard that the intitial factory oil is a special oil with special additives that should not be changed before the number of miles that the computer says to do it at. I couldn't find anything about changing the oil based on a number of months, only based on a number of miles.
+Theodore Zuckerman Dont' know what the factory uses but it shouldn't stay in the engine more than 6,000 miles, my opinion. I'm going to keep changing oil by my mileage log, between 5 and 6,000 miles. The computer can take it or leave it!
when i first got my car i would drive it 15 miles a day (give or take) and i didnt need to change the oil until about 6400 miles. the second time around i changed it around 12.3k miles. the third time around it was around 17.2k miles. it depends on how you drive the car the computer in the car tells you. if you drive hard the oil life goes down quicker according to the computer.
The owner's manual specifically states (page 359 of the 2015 Honda Fit manual - in fine print on the bottom left) : " If a message SERVICE does not appear more than 12 months after the display has been reset, change the engine oil every year".
Thanks for the video. Wish you'd have shown removing the back two pins. I'm getting ready to tackle this but saw on a different video that they are pins more than screws.
+Christopher Chappell Same question, how do you remove and install the 2 plastic fasteners?
It's funny, the second oil change I had problems with the two back fasteners. I was in a hurry and let the oil run down the pan with a plastic bag to catch the oil and run it into a pan. I need to re-examine those for the next oil change.
Pry the center pins out with a sharp screw driver or knife blade.
Well... Looking at the comment section would have saved me some time and hassle. Yeah, couldn't figure out the back pins so propped the oil bowl on the panel and let it fill at an angle.
Awesome video Dave, may i add a few points:
1. The panel that is removed under your car is secured with plastic pins (the majority however are indeed Phillip screws "plus sign") which DO NOT screw, they simply go in with pressure. To remove them, simply slide a tool underneath them (like a slotted screwdriver "minus sign or hyphen symbol) and pop them out. To re-insert simply push them back in. These can be easily purchased at a home depot type store, or any auto shop likely can just give you some for free if you lose them.
2. There are two things you need to inspect when you remove the drain plug, inspect the ACTUAL PLUG as well as the WASHER "metal ring". Both need to be in good condition, having one or the other worn can lead to leakages after a few hundred km/miles of driving.
3. Always position your oil tray not only beneath the drain plug, but down further a bit, to catch the initial "spurting" out of oil, as seen at 07:48. This also applies to when you remove the filter as depending on the angle of your vehicle, lots, or little oil may creep over the base and drip down the line, oil stains in your garage or driveway are ugly as hell.
My Honda dealership charges $90 for an oil change, I can do it in 30 mins for $25 with enough change for a copious amounts of beers. Worth it.
Yes! Spot on! Very good details, Thanks!
A helpful video, thanks. I've just changed from a 2005 Honda Jazz (Fit in USA) to a 2015 model.
From painful experience, I'd recommend putting the filler cap somewhere safe while it's off, such as in the boot (trunk in USA). If it falls or gets knocked off while it's resting on the engine it could be hard to retrieve or even get lost.
Rather than jacking up the car, I usually run it up onto home-made wooden ramps - just high enough to give the clearance you need to get underneath.
Call me sloppy if you like! I usually manage to drip oil somewhere. So, I lay an old flattened out cardboard shipping box under the work area to catch any drips. I'm a little too proud of my work to have neighbors see oil stains on the driveway under where I park! LOLIn the past I have recycled the old motor oil by using a blend of it as rust proofing on steel parts of the underbody. It works great. There are complete videos and blogs about that though.
Thanks so much, this video was awesome, no more, no less than needed. That bit of wisdom about keeping a maintenance log was a great addition. Only part you didn't actually show which could mess up a newbie like me was exactly when you reattached the oil nut. Since it's back on in the shot where you remove the oil filter I'm assuming you put it back on as soon as you drain the oil form the oil nut.
Correct, I let all the oil drain out, clean the drain with a clean paper towel and then install the drain plug. Then I remove the oil filter.
Thanks to this video I did this successfully, I didn't have any jacks to lift up the car so had to reach through the front to do everything. Its great the oil filter is so easy to access.
I'm glad it worked for you but I don't know how you drained the oil without making mess on the windage tray.
Great video. Good pointers regarding the drain plug location in relation to vehicle angle for proper drainage and re-using the plug washer several times. I've re-used mine as well with no issues.
ive always reused them on hondas to be honest... for 4-5 changes, then replace... ebay you can get crush washers really cheap like 10 for less than $5 delivered. I have a stack of toyota ones but they're smaller.
My oil was hot and the BP gas station changed my oil in 20 mins. $55. The Honda service center cost me $119, and 2 hours
Lol, and you make sure it's done correctly.
Excellent demonstration. Thank you for sharing!
Just an FYI, filling the filter before installing isn't needed. If it makes you feel better than go for it, but don't stress about it and get oil everywhere. Some new engines have the filter upside down on top of the engine (new subaru engines.) Besides the amount of oil is so little, it's not an issue in small engines. If you just ran the engine before the change, there's still oil clinging to the inside of the engine so you're not really running the engine dry. You'd have to let the engine sit overnight to really get every drop of oil out of the engine.
Nice to see dipstick is still alive in some modern cars 😅
rather than turning the filter cartridge hand tight, you can turn it just until the seal makes contact, then mark the filter with a line pointing to the front of the car. Then by looking at the line you can see how many turns you make past the contact point. I think its 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn, but don't hold me to that. At 3/4 of a turn, the line would be pointing to the right side of the car.
For cars with the drain plug at the front of the engine - you can jack it up, put it on 2 jack stands, open the plug, then jack it down, continue to let it drain, and then jack it back up again, and put it on 2 jack stands again, and then install the plug? Or you can try to get the plug back into the engine and tighten it while the car is on the ground, and somehow squeezing yourself underneath? What I do is jack up both axles. Requires 4 jack stands. I set the hand brake firmly so the rear wheels can't roll, jack up both front wheels at once with a rolling jack, then set the car down onto 2 jack stands. I place the jack stands at the places under the pinch weld that are reinforced, and where the owner's manual tells you to place the jack that comes with the car. I make sure the car is securely seated on the jack stands, and then I jack up both rear wheels at once, and then set the rear down on jack stands, at the reinforced place on the pinch weld. With just about every car, the car will now be level. Your system: jack an axle up twice, let it down twice. My system, jack an axle up twice, let it down twice. Both involve the same amount of jacking. While I have the car jacked up I look at all 4 brake lines to make sure there are no leaks, spin the wheels and pull in-out to check wheel bearings, etcetera. However you can save some time and labor, if you want to do an oil change only, or don't want to look at the rear wheels and suspension, if you unscrew the drain plug after the front is jacked up, then jack up the rear, and let the car sit for 5-10 minutes on the jack - no jack stands needed at the rear - just do not get under the car to replace the plug until after you let the rear down. Make sure the hand brake is set before jacking the rear down. Having the car sit on the hydraulic jack for 10 minutes won't make any significant difference in how soon jack seals wear out. If anything, you'll have less wear, as you will do less pumping.
just a few points: you should always change the aluminum drain plug crush washer if possible. Also, you should not need an oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter if it was tourqued on correctly during the previous oil change. It should only need 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the block.
+Vincent Martinez With my arthritic hands I now need to use a filter wrench to remove the filters. Its that or take it in to the dealer, and that's not going to happen.
Hello...i like ur video...but i have a honda fit hybrid 2014 new shape and i have been running 95000 km so far...so can u help me,what is z best engine oil for zis kind of vehicle?
Check the owner's manual.
I need an advice how to change km to miles in odometer
I have exact same version on Japanese odometer.
Please let me know
Thanks
thanks, What's the size of that drain plug gasket or washer?
Yes that was good no one so far showed the splash tray. I'm going for ramps first so I can get at it.
Thanks for video...
Can tell is there any clutch oil change in HONDA GP5???
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with the GP5. Our Fit has an automatic transmission so there's no manual clutch. I assume your GP5 has a manual transmission. You should check the specs to see if the clutch is cable operated or hydraulic. If it's hydraulic operated there will be fluid to check. My Ford Contour has a hydraulic clutch but it does not have it's own hydraulic circuit it used the hydraulic fluid system from the brakes.
I did some more research. The GP5 is a model of the Fit. I think it's the hybrid model but I don't think Honda sells it in my state. Do you have the 7 speed dual clutch transmission? If so, posting a question on this site might get you an answer to your question: autolanka.com/forums/topic/19003-honda-grace-gearbox-question/
I assume you have an automatic transmission, if so the clutch fluid is the same fluid used in the transmission. My Haines manual shows there's a drain plug near the bottom of the transmission to drain the fluid but an inspection of the transmission reveals there is no drain plug. The fluid will have to be pumped out with a long hose connected to a pump. I plan to do it at about 30,000 miles.
12000 miles or 1 year for oil change in U.K. on the Jazz (Fit)
20k or 2 years on my new Land Rover
Thanks for the vid
2 years is a long interval.
Thanks for the info. I wonder why Honda UK recommendations are 12k miles or 12 months. Some newer cars are 18k. My friends BMW had 235k with longer intervals and the engine was great. He has a Nissan now up to 100k
Good question!
THANKS! I got a low mileage used 2016 Fit last August. Now I know more about the oil and that Synthetic is a must. Turbo charged engines need Synthetic more I think. Because the oil has to work its way into more places where the turbo charging goes on/ 17mm wrench needed! I rather change it myself. Can you trust the oil change stations to use full synthetic and at 0-20 weight?
I would only trust another mechanic if I knew them very well. I'm going to continue to do my own maintenance as long as I am able.
If you have the CVT transmission drive it gently. They cannot stand much abuse.
@@davidgpo Yeah got CVT on my Fit. I drive gently but I am surprised how fast this little Fit can accelerate. Must be the turbo and the CVT enabling this. I still have not taken it out on the highway to do 70-80 mph. I read that after driving Fit hard for a while you should not just shut it off. That you should let it idle for 3-5 minutes for the oil to get into the turbo area and other areas and grease it.
@@zenzekezenard4269 I've never owned a car with turbo and I wasn't aware that it was offered on a Honda Fit. I have heard that you have to cool it down before you shut it down.
@@davidgpo My mistake! No turbo charge on the Fit. I thought I read that it was.
hey good video. quick question...
I have a 2015 honda fit as well. my floor jack isn't long enough to reach the jack point in the center of the car. is it safe to jack from the side front tire area? it appears you did that and I believe the owner's manual states it's okay. just double checking, thanks.
When I had my old jack I used to have to use 2 x 4's and 4 x 4's because the jack didn't go high enough. You should be good jacking up on the sub-frame of the the car. Any steel that is too thin such as the steel used for floorboards must be avoided. Jacking on the center line can be tricky as if it's not centered the car can slide off the jack. Be careful!
thanks for responding. I use car ramps for oil changes but needed to get to the jack point for removing tires etc. I'm going to try and use the ramps to get more clearance then see if I can get to the jack point.
I think you mean 0W20. No dash and no extra W. Stands for winter, not weight. Otherwise lovely vid. I’m looking into buying this car.
Just bought my 2015 Fit yesterday. Standard 6-speed. She is amazing.
I have 2014 honda fit hybrid, what type of engine oil i can use please
Our 2015 Fit requires 0-20W oil. Oil requirements can change from year to year. It's best to check your owners manual. The oil weight is usually printed on the oil filler cap as well. Never use an oil that's not required by the manufacturer as you may damage the engine.
Actually, there IS a central point to jack up this car at the front. It is quite far back, about even with the rear of the front wheels I think. Also, even rolling jacks with very lowest minimum height won't be low enough to be able to slide under the car so that the saddle can be placed under the jack point. To get my jack to reach the center jacking point, I first jack the car at each side jack point behind a front wheel, and then put a piece of 2 by 6 lumber under each wheel. Alternatively I've driven up onto a pair of 2 by 12's I've beveled one end of each of the pieces of lumber to make driving onto it easier. Then with the lumber under the wheels the rolling jack will just make it under the bumper, the saddle will roll past the engine shield, and the saddle will finally reach the car's lift point. Now the jack handle will stick out past the bumper and I will be able to lift the handle an inch or 2 before it strikes the bumper. After 2 or 3 short strokes on the handle I will be able to take longer strokes and finally reach the jacking point with the saddle, and jack up the front of the car. *Very important though:* when you let the front of the car back down, remember to make sure you have those 2 pieces of 2-by lumber are under the front wheels. Forgetting to place the lumber under the wheels may cause some part of the car, such as the engine shield or the engine, to contact the top of the jack before the car's wheels rest on the ground. This could cause damage to the car or the jack or both.
I took the car to a jiffy lube kind of an oil shop. They did not reassemble the plastic cover correctly and while driving on the highway it got ripped apart from the assembly.
what function does the splash guard serve? Can I drive without it ? Does it shield the electrical parts from water?
how many screws did you say you took out to remove the splash guard ? 8? I found a part on ebay to replace it, but it doesnt come with any hardware :(
I have a honda element as well and that one does not have such splash guard but the ground clearance for that car is much higher compare to honda fit.
You should go back to the shop and demand that they take responsibility for the loss of the shield. You can live without it but I figure car companies eliminate as much as possible to save a few cents if they put the shield on it is important. It keeps water and mud from splashing in the engine bay, probably does something with air flow too. The two rear fasteners are the pry out kind, the rest are screws that screw to the side shields, I think there are six of those.
You can get screws at a local junk yard. Just call a few yards and ask if they have the screws. I wouldn't drive without a shield because the honda element it taller and wont scratch on the sidewalk when you drive up your driveway. You can see how many scratches he has on his shield in this video.
My 2012 Fit doesn't have this shield. I assume it is for better airflow and fuel economy. Looks like a PITA to me.
Thanks for the video. The Jack points for this car are terrible.
I agree on the bad jack points. Let me know if you figure out how to change the tranny fluid.
@@davidgpo I made a ramp out of 2x12s
I'm wondering about the 6K mile interval with synthetic oil. This seems premature to me. As you stated, the oil called for only comes in a synthetic. I had mine done at a garage and it cost more than a conventional oil change.
I may be changing oil earlier than average but we keep our cars for at least 20 years and we live in a humid climate so I'm comfortable spending a few extra dollars to change the oil more frequently.
+davidgpo Thanks for replying. I've never had a car that called for synthetic oil. I used it on my car a few times in the 80's and not since.
These newer engines have tiny oil passages for variable cam timing and such. That's why it's very important to use the oil and SAE weight recommended by the factory.
The honda Fit oil system actually varies the interval depending on your driving habits. People who do a lot of highway are seeing 8k mile + intervals. People in the city are seeing closer to 3k mile. My fiance gets closer to 8k on her Fit.
Yep - As it says in the manual - I drive 500 highway + 100 rural miles (i.e. virtually no stop n go) weekly and I do not get down to 15% until after 10k ( When I do my own change, I use the 15,000-mile rated synthetic as well ). I check my oil regularly just to be safe.
I've got a 2015 Fit. I change every 5000 and it's usually at 50-60% on the monitor. Did you modify how the monitor works?
No, I did not modify anything. The reminder comes up around the 5500 mile mark. 6.000 miles is number I pulled out of the air based on speaking to various auto care professionals. Best of luck!
It isn't just mileage. It monitors cold starts, rpms, idling time, stuff like that. mine could go around 8k miles. Depends how you drive.
thanks for posting, great job, I learned something - that eight screw/twist splash guard (cover) seems like it complicates things, does syn oil or honda have a time limit for oil changes (like should change the oil if a calendar dates passes with out miles passing?
I wouldn't keep oil in the crankcase for more than 7 or 8 months. Of course that depends on the climate you live in. The subject of oil change intervals creates a lot of debates!
I hear a year. I just did mine at 17 mos as it still had 50% oil life (don't drive it much). I'll try to do it when it is still warm out next time!
Hey great video I have a Lx model do u think I could jack up the car from the tow hook on the rear is it safe I heard talk about some people doing it
The tow hook is usually affixed to a strong point on the frame or unit body. It's best to check with your dealer Service Manager. Never get underneath a vehicle that is not supported on at least 2 sturdy jackstands properly placed on a body/frame strong point.
You're Terrific--Nice Job!
The handbook in my 2015 fit say you can use 5-30w motoroil
Does the oil filler cap list an oil viscosity?
What would be wrong with leaving the plastic cover off?
When your driving down the highway at high speeds, stones and other debris can fly up into your engine bay and cause damage. The main reason for the tray is to protect your oil pan from scraping the ground.
Very helpful video... Thank again 👍👍
Appreciate the video and the narration + tips
How much oil are you guys adding i added it 3.5 was slightly above the orange indicator tip
Capacity on our Fit is 3-1/2 quarts. When I add that amount during an oil change it never goes above the fill mark. Are you using the stock capacity oil filter? I suppose an oil filter smaller than specified can cause a higher reading on the dip stick. The stock filter is so small I don't think you can find one smaller?
@davidgpo I'm using a wix oil filter which is slightly larger than the stock
@@yezkaholic I suppose Honda may make their models different for different countries. I'm in the US. Perhaps check with your local Honda dealer.
@davidgpo yeah US as well. Tha KS for your help. I ended up draining about 5oz the line is right in the middle
@@yezkaholic Something sounds odd. I wonder if you have the stock dip stick? At least now you know how much oil to add for the next oil change.
What points did you use for your jack stands ? Thx !’
Watch the video again. I use a floor jack on the pinch weld under the forward end of the rocker panel and set the car down on a jack stand on the on board end of the lower control arm
Thanks for the video. I really hate that plastic splash guard... been considering two options.. 1) complete removal.... 2) two oval holes cut in the thing with a hole saw and jig saw to remove oil filter and drain oil.... actually, I hate this whole car but selling is not an option right now LOL... anyone else take that thing off completely??
I agree, it's a pain to remove. I think some aviation fasteners that release with a quarter turn would be ideal. I'm keeping the cover on because there must be some benefit for Honda to add $50+ to the cost of the car for such a thing. Splash shield or aerodynamics?
is it safe to start the car and let it run while the jacks are underneath ?
Yes, provided the jack stands are positioned properly. Car must be level to check the proper oil level on the dipstick.
My 2013 Honda fit forces me to change it every 2000 to 2750. How do your car goes 6000 miles?
The car will start and run many miles after the "maintenance required" light comes on. How does your Honda Fit force you to change your oil?
How many miles on this car now?
About 22,500.
Can you please do videos to change transmissions fluild chmage . And brake bleed thank you. Im a newbee and like to learn .
I made a video on how to make a one person brake bleeder. There are several ways to bleed brakes. ruclips.net/video/vCKLfF642Eo/видео.html
I haven't tackled replacing the transmission fluid on the Fit. Don't have enough miles on it at this time. It may be a problem as the transmission doesn't have a dip stick and I don't see a drain plug nor a fill plug. I need to do some more research.
thank you, good explanation !
Thanks for watching!
Awesome vdo
Does it have a fuel filter?
Not external, it's built into the fuel tank.
thanks for the video, changing the oil in one of these this week. Don't really get these cars... they dont "fit" me lol... im only 6' but can't drive this small thing... not sure why they appeal over a Civic.... anyway I'll get the oil done anyway ;)
I'm 6' too and I was too tall for the car too.....until I discovered the lever on the left side of the drivers seat. You can pump it down to lower the seat. Makes it much more comfortable.
I’m 6'3” and the fit is way more comfortable than a civic or a corolla or even a Camry there is tons of head space and leg room.
Hi, what is the first button you press?
I'm not sure which portion of the video you are referring to? Resetting the "Maintenance Required" light? The MR light is reset with the trip odometer button.
If you read the manual of your "Ford" it probably states 5-6000 mile interval as well even with conventional. oil. The "3 month / 3,000 mile" guideline was started by "quick lube" places to generate $$$.
Great work man.
Mine is a 2013 and at 0% is 2,250 miles ran. There must be something wrong with my car. My oil is not black either. I only drive 10 miles to work and 10 miles back home.
If it's not black, your oil is still clean
Then u need to reset that maintenance thing on the dash
Wished honda made a center jack point like they do on their other cars to make jacking easier. All the Honda's/Acura's I've owned had a center jack point near the front of the car that made it easy to rest the car on jack stands
I agree, I dread jacking up that car!
valvoline is good oil for gk5 fit??
Valvoline is good, any major brand of oil is good as long as it's synthetic and 0W-20W viscosity.
My owner's manual says that there is no fixed oil change interval in terms of miles. Rather, the computer assesses the kind of driving you have done and turns on the wrench light when 15% of the mileage remains. You should change the oil before the computer reads 0%. Also, I've heard that the intitial factory oil is a special oil with special additives that should not be changed before the number of miles that the computer says to do it at. I couldn't find anything about changing the oil based on a number of months, only based on a number of miles.
+Theodore Zuckerman Dont' know what the factory uses but it shouldn't stay in the engine more than 6,000 miles, my opinion. I'm going to keep changing oil by my mileage log, between 5 and 6,000 miles. The computer can take it or leave it!
when i first got my car i would drive it 15 miles a day (give or take) and i didnt need to change the oil until about 6400 miles. the second time around i changed it around 12.3k miles. the third time around it was around 17.2k miles. it depends on how you drive the car the computer in the car tells you. if you drive hard the oil life goes down quicker according to the computer.
The owner's manual specifically states (page 359 of the 2015 Honda Fit manual - in fine print on the bottom left) : " If a message SERVICE does not appear more than 12 months after the display has been reset, change the engine oil every year".
I feel so ashamed of myself for getting my oil changed at 30% which is actually pretty early, but the mechanic at pep boys didn't mind lol.
It's better then not changing it.
Does the sump plug require a washer ?
Yes!
@@davidgpo Yes the crush washer should be replaced every oil change to prevent leaks. I get them from the Honda dealer with the filter
You know how to change CVT transmission fluid on this model?
+sbusumacinta Sorry, I haven't gotten enough miles on the car yet. Let me know if you find a source.
+davidgpo there is little information in terms of where the fill plug for the CVT fluid is located? I only know where the drain is
Air an hour to check the
Fill...omg...loosen up 😂...
You only have to let the car sit for 5 minutes after the engine is turned off, and the car is level.
Bro,I think you add nearly 1Qt oil more than needed, in fact 3liters is the best.
Published capacity is 3-1/2 quarts for this neck of the woods.
@@davidgpo I have a 2016 Fit, and the Manual also calls for three and a half quarts.
I've had mine vary between 6,000 miles and 8,000 miles depending on the way I have been driving.
You should always be in the habit of changing the drain plug gasket. My Honda dealer sells for less than a dollar.
my oil percent got to 15% after 8,500 miles
mine at 6k usually.
I wouldn't go past 6,000 miles.
It's not based on mileage.
My oil life gauge usually drops 10% every 1k miles. I get it about every 10k or less.
Honda Fit gets an oil change every 7,500 miles according to dealers.Just take it to Jiffy Lube!