How to Add an Electrical Outlet ANYWHERE !! Heated Toilet Seat or Bidet Install | Run Power Easily
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2021
- In this video I'll show you how I ran power off an existing outlet to a new electrical outlet in a toilet room....Which you could use for you heated toilet seat or bidet install :)
Its not too common that a home builder will have an electrical outlet next to your toilet, but don't worry, I got you covered. I'll show you just how easy it is to get the outlet where you need it.
All the tools and Items I used are in the links below:
Old Work electrical Box: amzn.to/2W1txAy
GFCI Outlet 20amp: amzn.to/3nWvwBB
12/2 Nomex wire: amzn.to/3EClg7z
Wire strippers: amzn.to/3nOVwip
Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3hRJ39G
Electrical Fishing Tape: amzn.to/39oy430
Amazing Bidet:
amzn.to/3HLM3Pp
Above are my Amazon Affiliate links to the products I've used and shown in this video. If you use the link to shop or search Amazon may compensate me for your business. Everything is much appreciated. 
Хобби
I really like that you reply to your comments, even the one that are critical of you.
I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Haha. Yeah. I do my best to reply to all comments on all my videos. Even when they are being negative. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they are just having a bad day.
I want to install an outlet right next to the bathtub. It will make it so much easier to throw the toaster in.😄
I Wouldn’t recommend that one.
Chucky would appreciate if you did
Let me know if you're able to read women's minds after that (movie reference for the ones who don't catch it).
@@longjonsilvernuts what women want?
@@jaxfortner7979 yes sir!
Super helpful - appreciate all the details and keeping things safe!!!
Your very welcome!
Looking to upgrade my bidet to a powered unit, thanks for solving my problem to supply power to it!
Your very welcome!!
For a novice like me, would be nice to see the how the wires are suppose to connect to that new GFCI circuit-nice tutorial-thank you…
Thank you! I do have a video about wiring outlets and GFCI outlets on my channel. I go into more detail on just wiring
Worked like a charm. Thank you so much for the guidance!
That’s awesome to hear! Good job!
Nice job on that. Thank you for making & posting this informative and teaching video.
Thank you! It’s very appreciated!
GFCI definitely a good idea. My hand-held bidet backed off a couple of threads from the gooseneck over time and started a slow, subtle leak beside the toilet.
Yeah, anytime your around a water source or chance or water, it’s always a good idea to have it GFCI
Great tutorial! Very thorough.
Thank you! I appreciate that
Thank you so much for doing this video!!!
Your welcome! I appreciate it!
Thank you for the great info. I am currently using whay i learned here to install a plug for my new brondell bidet toilet seat
That’s awesome to hear! I’m glad I could be of help.
Great idea. Thank you.
I appreciate it!
That’s great advice for everyone who lives in a new or pretty new structure. But what about all the folks that live in old homes without drywall or modern wiring? Big bucks.
Yeah every house is going to have its difference challenges. I’ll be showing different installs or obstacles that come up as I do projects so hopefully there will be something that can help everyone with their at home projects
thanks a bunch nice presentation
Thank you!!
It had been a while since I've done this. This was a good review. I wasn't sure if I needed to cover the outlet with a box since it's below the sink and stuff.
It just needs to be a GFCI protected circuit
Thank you so much!!!!
Your very welcome
Thank you
Your welcome 🤙🏼
Biggest thing I would add, if you’re not an electrician and your house was built before 1980/1990 I would not do this. All sorts of interesting things were done in older homes. Sometimes just taking out an outlet can be opening a can of worms. You ran into an ideal situation. 1 set of wires in the original box. It was 12/2 ROMEX. You didn’t have to jump bays. If you find this situation in an older house go buy a lottery ticket too.
Your 100% right. In Older homes you’ll find all kinds of different materials used and methods used. It can be a simple job at first, then turn into a whole different storm once you see inside those walls
Yeah, like no neutral wire! Yikes!
Nice install, only wish I could have seen the old and new wires tied together better or a slower explanation. As a newbie that was an important moment to follow.
I appreciate your comment. I will be doing a couple more videos showing just that. I’ve had a lot of questions about these parts of the process. So I’ll emphasize more this in future videos.
It’s dangerous for you to take a project like this on without having thought it through for yourself a little bit better first, and I’m not trying to be snide by saying this. It wouldn’t be learning if the teacher did the student’s thinking and “newbie” seems to imply actual interest. He doesn’t need to change his videos lol just because there are some viewers who conflate wanting to learn with wanting the result of having learned. Dude’s video was totally responsible using a hollow interior wall and not advising novices to go on the back wall where the water supply is.
Inexperience doesn’t need the vocabulary to figure out this is a parallel circuit, but the video does presume anyone without enough snap to infer that the three (hot neutral and ground, respectively black white and bare or green in the U.S.) wires need to be individually connected to the same-colored terminals at the additional load (brass steel and green) as they are at the other end of the new jumper (even if every conductor had the same color insulation, which they don’t for what one should hire an electrician If they don’t realize are obvious reasons of safety and convenience) has enough self awareness to forthrightly call having a situational instrumental use for some information what it is. Criticizing useful information consulted under false pretenses as unclear though is just the projection of someone trying to pretend (unclear with self) they aren’t playing make-believe about their own deluded unassailable perfection by diminishing the work of others (electrician you need to hire and RUclipsr you need to stop gaslighting).
Thank you. I appreciate the words.
I kind of felt like that, too, but I have no intention of doing the work myself; I just want to know if it can be done and how much is involved so I'll know if the electrician is being straight with me.
@@virginiamoss7045 it can most definitely be done. It’s just doing it properly and sometimes that involves more labor and work. So it could get pricey depending on how much work is needed.
Easy to install, ruclips.net/user/postUgkxjA-hDN2m8_mi0Dg0JD8U6QiArozIAc4I and comfortable. No idea what other people were talking about when they said it was difficult to install or uncomfortable.
100%
This is perfect for my RV(bidet, heat, led's). I was concerned about turning toilet into electric chair. The gfci outlet should take care of that.
Awesome to hear!
Ferret, when you "gotta go", you "gotta go"!
lol
I'm trying to get the courage to work on electric. Thanks.
It’s definitely something you can diy. Just start with the breaker off. Everything else is easy after that.
@@FortKnoxCo That's what they keep telling me. 😂 I had to put in a new coil in my oven. I unplugged it and turned off the breaker. Baby steps.
Nice work dude. Clicked your channel and expected to see 100k subs. What gives? Great content. You need more subs
Thank you I appreciate it. I’m gradually working on it I guess. There’s not real rhyme or reason to how the subscriber thing works. Just got to make more content that people want I guess. And design a good thumbnail so people will click on it.
@@FortKnoxCo I use canva. And keep it up!
@@MasteringHow-To thank you! yeah I recently started looking at canva and they have tons of stuff.
Thanks.
Much appreciated! 🤙🏼
Nice 👌🏽
🤙🏼
Thanks for the tip on cutting out the old box to give yourself room to work.
No problem. It’s probably one of the best moves with moving electrical. Saves so much time
as long as you know there is no obstructions in the wall, you don't need to remove the existing outlet box. You can pull the duplex outlet out of the box, punch a new hole in it and feed the new wire through the box and from the other side of the wall cut your hole and pull the wire to where the new box. You can then attach the new wire to the existing outlet and the new outlet.
Yep! Good ideas. Definitely Another way this can be accomplished
thank u.
Your very welcome
Great video. Question? The distance between the toilet and plug doesn't matter, as long as you have a GFCI plug?
I wouldn’t say it doesn’t matter, but the GFCI is that safety measure. But you still need to try to avoid any water contact. So the furthest away or in a position that protects it from moisture or water is best. The GFCI outlet is just a safety measure in case it were to get wet or have some type of short. But I would still always try to put it furthest away from any water source.
Local codes in different areas may have different measurements they require.
It's a good idea to always wrap electrical tape around the outlet or switch. Also if it's a ground level bathroom one could go up thru the basement. There ate gfi's that have 2 (guide lights) on them that make for easier spooting of the plug. When it comes to ground faults it's also a good idea to use deep well work box's.
Very good info! I agree. !
First part of your statement is false. You’ll never and I mean never ever see a pro do that. It’s for a noob. There is no logically reason to do that. Wire it properly and you’ll never need to do that. It’s silly and a waste of tape and causes the person who works on it next, extra work
@@crusherfang9368 electrical tape solves all problems. 🤙🏼
@@crusherfang9368 oh YES. Thanks for reminding people to do that. That's how I was tsught. Also in wet locations having the wire nut face upwards (taped) just incase water should leak in the box. And to tape a white wire if its to be used as a hot wire. I'm NOT a professional but I for like to do work to the best of my ability.
Thank you! I am having someone come over tomorrow in the am to put one in for my bidet! My last place, I could not have the plug in one, as there were no outlets nearby. The heater will be wonderful!
That’s awesome!! I know a lot of people swear once they had one they will never go back. Haaha
This also works for adding a towel warmer--that's what I did in my bathroom.
Also, you can put the GFCI receptacle on the source outlet and have the bathroom receptacle connected to the load terminals on the GFCI source outlet. This can be handy if the bathroom outlet is hard to reach the test/reset buttons. Don't know about the code implications, but as others have stated, you may not be in compliance anyway. I don't worry about that as long as it's my house and I feel it's safe, and done in a workmanship-like manner.
Yeah exactly. You could use the outlet for many things or reasons. Very good information! I appreciate it!
Why does everyone think the city building code only applies to someone else house and not theirs. I understand if you have a death wish....so when you drive your car off the cliff just make sure the wife and kids and dog/cat aren't in the car with you. Just saying dude... you cant speak for them.
@@pjdn : Well because sometimes they are right. Out here in the country there very few codes.
Of course, some will use that to create deathtraps and others will say "let's do it right". We do
it right as my wife and I do not want to be electro fired. Or have our guests (mainly family) become
Crispy Critters. What other fools do is their choice - the consequences are not their choice!
Enjoyed watching this video and your installation looks superb. Everyone does electrical work differently so there's always gonna be people criticizing you and bringing you down. Don't let those haters get in your way.
I really appreciate that! Seriously. I’m surprised at how many people get angry or even mean about it. I’m just trying to show people one way to do something and techniques or skills that can apply to other stuff. And give people some confidence in doing stuff yourself sometimes. Thank you for the support!
I'm sorry if I come across as a hard ass or something but I'm not trying to be I'm just trying to protect the interest of the installer and the homeowner cuz when you put something in that is not up to code then your insurance is no good the contractor will be sued and then hopefully the homeowner isn't electrocuted that's why we have these codes to protect everyone that is involved is separates those who say oh I have a lineman flyers I'm an electrician yes we can all do various works of electrical but do we really understand what we're doing and how we're doing it so it'll be safe for the consumer
@@michaelquinnelly8290 100% agree. Videos are for informational purposes of course. If you have any questions or concerns about doing to the work you should hire a professional licensed contractor or electrician.
@@michaelquinnelly8290 I personally don't think you came across that way. I've seen comments that are a lot worse than yours. I even argued with someone when replying to a harsh comment saying that this video is wrong and the outlet needs to be dedicated. He/she can't understand that not all houses are created equal and not all clients can afford or need an overkill outlet installation. I did get pissed that the code requires bathroom outlets to be on their own circuit, which isn't always possible, so I said whoever wrote that code with no exceptions is an idiot and that half of the codes are inapplicable to my house (since it's built in 2004) or contains BS like that. Then again, his first reply made no sense grammatically which was how I first got triggered.
I know I could've not reacted like that but that person thinks money isn't an issue, doesn't understand that pretty much every device we use has a 15 A plug so a dedicated circuit is completely overkill, and doesn't understand that toilets aren't always next to existing bathroom outlets. After assuming I'm 16 and talking shit about my supposed age, I told him that I'm 21 working and attending college, he replied back saying that he'll stop replying to me. Although there's no point replying back again, I couldn't let it slide since he/she's clearly close-minded AF.
Sorry for rambling so much. My comments on electrical often end up being poked on by morons like that person.
Hater comments are just as valuable to the algorithms, the more comments the better, beside no one should post youtubes if their snowflakes
Do you have any videos on adding an exterior outlet on a brick wall? On the other side of the wall (interior) I have an outlet. Similar to this video.
I have a video How to add electrical outlets in Garage, it’s similar in how you would branch off and use either schedule 80 or galvanized conduit to run the power outside. You’d be drilling a hole through the brick wall most likely so long as your clearance outside to the ground in sufficient. You wouldn’t want to create any moisture problems drilling through the wall. But some of the techniques and methods I’ve used in several of my videos could be applied. But nothing specifically yet showing going through a brick wall.
For small or one time project, is it better to used a rotary saw or a hand saw? Would prefer nice clean cut.
Yes you can use a multi tool or whatever you prefer. To cut the nails or to cut the drywall. Whatever tools you have to get the job done. There’s many ways to accomplish the steps.
I like the way you pointed out the GFCI, often missed by DIYers. Some advice for your future videos to help future DIYers and yourself.
1. The tabs in the back of your box were pressed through and did not spring back to secure the romex coming through. These are designed to be a form of "strain relief" and secure the cable set in the box. If the tabs are broken and not securing the wires inside the box, a new box should be used.
2. Your ground splice was in my experience, and opinion is very poor. Simply wrapping on ground around the other, and terminating to the bond screw on the receptacle is not a secure join. They should be properly twisted together and spliced with (in this case) a 3rd ground wire spiced in with to "pigtail" to the receptacle bond screw.
3. They way you terminated your receptacle seemed fine and works. However through years of service work, a better way IMO is to splice and pigtail a hot, neutral, and ground wire to your incoming and outgoing branches, and terminating only the one pigtail to your receptacle. This prevents loss of power all downstream devices, (lights, receptacles, etc.) if something happens to this specific receptacle. This is not necessary, and depending on the circumstances may not prevent loss to all downstream devices. However through years of service work finding no power at multiple receptacles, only to find the one defective receptacle after opening many devices, this method has saved me a lot of time.
4. Thanks for mentioning to turn of the specific cct off. Too many avoidable incidents happen due to poor planning.
Good luck with future videos, information paired with education is always positive progress.
Thank you very much for all the information and positive words. I greatly appreciate it.
Brother I run a shit ton of wire and I always pop the tabs out. Inspectors don’t give two shits about the tabs believe me.
I agree 100% to pigtail so power keeps going down the line in case the first receptacle is damaged. We do not want to kill power down line.
@@tittyrino that’s the best way to do it.!
@@tittyrino that's true, inspectors will only call the small inconspicuous details if you fight them or argue everything. But it's not just about inspection, also protection. There's a reason there is always a way to secure cable sets in entry points.
That wall outlet behind you (for the irrigation system)....when I got my house it was only a single outlet and only had the (same as yours) irrigation timer plugged in. Was it legal to change it out to make it to a double? I plugged a bunch of stuff into it like you....hahah.
Yeah. It’s still a 20amp plug. Just put in the house for the irrigation system. This house was not built with anything extra. Some rooms had no electricity in the ceiling and only wall plugs controlled by a switch. So the garage was lacking in plugs overall.
So did you put the new box on the same stud (opposite side) just lower?
The new box is floating in between the two studs. It’s a retro (old work) box, so you can technically put it anywhere within the space and the box has tabs on the inside that will hold or suspend it securely. I have a link to the boxes in my description
I had thought ahead when we remodeled our bathroom and had the outlet put in place by the toiler. The negative is that the contractor connected the outlet to the circuit that powered the bathroom sink lights. So when the bidet seat activates, the lights flicker.
Aww man that’s no good. You could always try to bring another power source over to the outlet from a wall plug near by.
Check your connections on your wires sounds like you might have a loose ground or something
I encountered the same issue. There was a feint flicker of the lights when the seat heater was activated. Lucky for me there was a spare unused line up to the bathroom from a whirlpool bath that was previously removed, so I reconnected the bidet outlet to that circuit.
I think you have other issues related to this circuit's installation. Flickering? No.
If you are installing smart bidet isn't it good idea this gfci should be in the back wall instead of in middle of the room ?
This home owner specifically wanted it in this location sure to how they set up their bathroom and the additional work that would have been required to pull electrical wire the the wall behind the toilet. For their set up and budget they wanted it on the side. But yes you can have the outlet behind the toilet. Some builders will install an outlet there for you during the construction on the home too
Question, does code say the power outlet need to be x inches from the floor? I don't think it maters for a retro but asking to see if its a big deal.
Depends on where you live and what your specific codes say. But there are different scenarios where it’s be okay per code and maybe others that it isn’t compliant with code. Some will allow it with certain measures in place or might ask that specific materials are used. So it really all depends on the situation.
I live in a rental with no bathroom outlet. There is one in the adjacent room. I drilled a hole in the wall on both sides, making sure i didn't hit wires and fed the cord through for my heater.. My bathroom was always freezing in the winter. I'll just patch when I move.
Sounds like you got the idea down. You can move power without to much work. Just be cautious when using outlets or powered devices in areas where water is near by. A GFCI outlet is an added layer of protection.
I am not sure if others have brought this up but NEC 210.52(D) clearly states that outlets that aren't located by the counter are NOT allowed in bathrooms. They have to be within 3 feet of a sing and within 12" of height from a counter. Anywhere else in a bathroom isn't allowed. I know that there are some local jurisdictions that don't adopt the NEC, however all states except 4 (AZ/MO/IL/MS) haven't adopted some version of the code.
I don’t think anyone has mentioned that information. Really good info. Thank you!
I'm not an electrician, but it seems that code doesn't say it's NOT allowed. It seems it's talking about basin-related outlets. It doesn't seem to talk about others (like bidet related). Am I missing something? "receptacle outlet shall be installed in bathrooms within 36 in. of the outside edge of each basin. The receptacle outlet shall be located on a wall or partition that is adjacent to the basin or basin countertop"
@@Hajjat my man! I like the way you think. 🤙🏼🤙🏼 main goal is to be safe about how you handle electrical and understanding pros’ cons’ or different problem solving tactics. I appreciate your comment !
Viewers beware, this may not be up to code where you live. At the very least, a GFI outlet is required anyplace where water may be encountered. There may also be rules, specific to your locale, that complicate placement of bathroom electrical outlets.
That is correct. You should always check your local building codes. And just like in this video we installed a GFCI outlet because it’s in an area where water or moisture is present. You should always check with a licensed contractor or electrician if your unsure.
I would not want to be the potty training kid who accidentally pees on that outlet...
@@spicyreef yeah that’s be no good
@@spicyreef heh reminds me of a sign in a restaurant bath....we aim to please, will you aim please
can't wait to install an outlet on my shower head
You might be able to find a shower head with an outlet already on it.
Yeah but those are always cheap made in China junk.
Thank but this is probably the easiest case. How do you go through multiple studs? Trying to add LED lights to my garage, drywalled, ceiling and the rafters (?) are like 12" on center. Going from 2 fixtures to 5 and I'm having hard time cutting through just going through the 4" opening where the existing ceiling boxes are. Bought 90 degree drill and a 12" drill extension but I'm not sure I'm doing this the best way.
If you have to jump across studs your probably going to have to do some drywall work. There are tools to help minimize how much or how big of a hole you’ll need each time. But it’s very common to have to do this. The tools you said you purchased to help will definitely make it easier. But ultimately it sounds like your going to have to cut holes every so often to be able to reach the inside cavity and punch through the studs.
@@FortKnoxCo Thanks! I was afraid you would say that. I'm going to try with a drill extension first because I dislike drywall work. I'll let you know how I make out!
@@thomasmagda4580 yeah I feel ya on that one. Sometimes there’s no way around it. But it’s possible. Takes some creativity.
Not sure what your building codes are in your area but in my area, it is a code violation to put an electrical outlet near a water source. I found this out because the previous owner installed a utility sink near the breaker box and he also put an outlet, below the sink in the master bath. Code inspection resulted in me relocating the boxes. I’m not trying to be difficult, just providing data that if anyone wants to install new electrical circuits, check the building codes in their areas.
I appreciate the info. Installing an outlet directly under a water source is obviously a bad idea. Lol. But there are also outlets in bathrooms, usually above countertops, so it can be near or by water sources. Just within safe distances. Almost all times they require a GFCI on that circuit as well. And code out here goes even one step further now where every outlet has to start with a GFCI outlet. So it is always good to check your local code. They are in place to for safety. And there’s usually a way to accomplish what you want within code
John - I think it’s 18 inches ( electrical outlet from water source). Of course no utility sink next to the breaker box.
I agree. A lot of codes will require a specific distance from a water source. You should also see in that code how they measure that distance. For example, a sink in the corner of the kitchen, they might measure to the nearest corner of the sink and others might measure to the nearest corner of the sink that is closest to the wall.
@@mar1video for sure. Uncertain if national electric code supersedes municipal though probably not as local codes more likely are based on federal ones. Prudent common sense in application suggests if in doubt and there’s no preference then the more restrictive code prevailing covers you, but if this is a DIY channel i’m not understanding that degree of concern with code enforcement. Perhaps lenders or insurers require old houses to meet new codes when participating in certain new purchases because DIY remodelers do not have to pull building permits.
Ridiculous to think there’s not a way to achieve the safe provisioning of power near water though and homeboy didn’t do a non-fault-protected floor plug in a laundry room or next to a whirlpool or something stupid (maybe aluminum wire for the jumper lol) so it’s only a useful and necessary discussion about this type of application specifically because it makes the point of how and why there’s a single answer for each installation not every installation.
Since this is RUclips, which is available free, it seems to me just providing data is closer to trying to be difficult than being difficult without even trying. Passive aggressive AF though (apparently without trying) to imply free RUclips help for DIY should deliver content detailed explicitly enough for individual suitability. I like my DIY work to meet code as well, but the biggest advantage to not pulling a permit is fucking the code when there’s a good safe reason to do so. You can see the ridiculousness/inconsistency of code which permits power for a waste disposal beneath a kitchen sink that would forbid it in a bathroom
"Clean hole" PUN INTENDED
Lol
Maybe retitle “how to install an outlet conveniently located near an existing one”?
It’s more about the method used to take an original outlet, how to remove it from the wall, how to branch off to create another outlet, how to cut the drywall and place a new box in a new “anywhere” location, etc. it’s more about the methods and critical thinking/problem solving. You can apply some of these techniques to your specific situation.
@@FortKnoxCo As long as its not further away than the nearest stud. Now that would be an informative video. I am installing a bidet toilet seat and the closest electrical outlet is 2 studs away. The other side of the bathroom wall is a stairwell, only a switched light circuit nearby. Have any ideas?
@@michaelmarrone5768 Yes, I'll be doing a video about how to jump studs and the drywall work required. But in many cases when the outlet isn't near by, as will lots of electrical work/additions, you'll be making some holes in your drywall and patching afterwards. its almost always the case when doing electrical work after the house is built.
Thanks. Keep up the good work
You could have also came off the load side of an existing GFCI and installed a regular outlet saving 20 bucks.The out outlet would also be GFCI protected.
Good point!
Excellent point! In CA, a GFI needs to be in place anywhere there is water, I.e. Sink, shower, toilet etc. if closer than 3’. I also think our county code for an outlet is 12” above the floor. Different codes for different cities counties etc. check yours! BTW, there are GFI electrical boxes for a garage etc.
@@kenkw5515 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼 thank you!
I didn’t see how you connected the wire to the old outlet. That is the part I need help with.
I have another video showing how in more detail on my channel. How to move an outlet . You will connect the wires by “pig tailing” them.
Is there a building code outlet height requirement?
Depends on your area/location. But it’s really not so much a critical thing. Just don’t want it on the floor or where it could get wet by standing water. Usually it’s a minimum of a few inches above the finished floor height. Commonly between 12-20 inches. But obviously you can go lower.
Just be aware you cannot tap off any other outlet (hallway/general purpose power) unless it is associated with the bathroom circuit, or any additional bathroom’s circuit. A bathroom(s)circuit(s)shall have no other outlets.
Guess they didn't know that when my house was built 😀
@@uweschroeder As long as whatever you plug into those outlets don't trip the breaker, them you should be fine. If it really bothers you, then you can fix it but depending on your house, it's either gonna it's gonna be straightforward or challenging
If a home inspector finds this you may have to fix it to sell the house or lower the price to cover the fix or maybe they'll just back out of the sale.
@@Dave.O I think that's the least of the problems where I live. Here they started doing a code inspection before you can sell a house and they fine you and require you to bring the house up to current code if it's not - and that's just a given since no house in this town is up to current code unless very recently built. It's a way for the city to make extra money and get contractors - who big money supported that legislation - to make more money. I already know it would cost anywhere from 100k to 200k to bring this house up to code and fully permitted. So I'll never sell the house - I'd rather turn it into a section 8 housing or just rent it until it falls apart.
@@uweschroeder Could not agree more Local government really sucks, it kills the home owner little guy. I think the job was well done and safe .
What should you do when the spec sheet of the bidet seat requires a "dedicated" electrical GFCI circuit (120V, 15A, 60Hz)?
Make sure it is A GFCI outlet that you’re installing. It’s an added layer of protection. But if you want a truly dedicated line you’d have to run a brand new wire all the way from your breaker box off of a new breaker and run it all the way to the bathroom where you want it. Dedicated may be a little overkill. Making sure the circuit is GFCI protected is the first and main point.
@@FortKnoxCo Thank you! I thought a toilet seat needing its own circuit might be a bit much.
@@ericapp17 your welcome. Yeah I think it’s would be a lot and you could accomplish the same safety with other methods. Just depends on your local code requirements and all
is there a code that says its ok to not support your new wire being the other box is so close?>
Usually when doing runs up a wall or moving outlets I don’t see people secure the wire within 8-12” of the next box on the stud inside the wall unless they have a lot of area already opened up to do that. As far as code I know during new construction they require the wire to be secured near the box. I’m unsure if there’s code for or against the new work being done in most cases. But I know it’s commonly not done when running new wires. I’ve done it when I have the room to do it. For example when working in the attic space I’ll secure the wires along the way.
The cable trade name is Romex. Nomex is fire resistant cloth.
Yeah. I sometimes get the words jumbled when talking on camera.
What about to install close to the corner?
Why to close to the floor?
You can install the outlet where you’d prefer, I chose this spot becoming it was the path of least resistance and it worked for the home owner. But if you want to jump over some studs and do a little drywall work you can definitely place it wherever you’d like.
I thought the outlet had to be a minimum 12 inches from the ground.
im a little confused on the wiring part, how did you get the brown cable for the new outlet?
I’m not sure what brown cable your speaking of. There’s a Black, white & copper(ground). Just those 3 wires
@@FortKnoxCo I think I was referring to the ground cable.
@@mymovievideos it’s in the new wire that I ran off the original set of wires. When you get a 14/2 Romex wire you’ll have those 3 colors. Almost always you’ll have a ground copper wire in there.
Brian, how do you get away from not cleaning up the drywall dust at the completion of your project? My wife would have something to say about that.
Isn't that her job?
Nawww any good handy man should clean up after himself. lol. That’s what will get you more referrals in the end
I cleaned up. Just not before I could snap a picture for the thumbnail on the video. I usually bring a vacuum with me to job sites. Those small compact box shop vacuums are great for the job sites at houses.
Ugh! This was helpful but unfortunately I'm stuck. My new house has a ton of outlets but none near any of the bathrooms. The put all of the bathrooms next to closets which of course don't have outlets either.
You can still use some of the techniques I showed in this video to get to the power and install the new power. But you’d most likely have to run across the wall and through a couple studs. It’s totally possible, just requires some drilling and drywall work
Show me your expertise when it comes to lath and plaster walls
I can do lath and stucco. Haven’t worked much with plaster. I’m pretty good at drywall work too. But not much plaster around here
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Thank you!
You should use a green wire nut with a hole in it for the ground wire on the source connection. Could have used 15 amp GFCI. Good job, though, I appreciate it.
Yeah I’ve recently seen those green caps that slow the wire to pass through the top. Hadn’t seen them in any other builds until lately.
Copper crimp sleeves are cheaper. Greenies take too much space and only allow one ground wire to come out of the nut, which isn't always helpful.
@@aurvaroy6670 yeah. I’ve seen people do that as well. There’s so many ways or code requirements out there.
@@aurvaroy6670 Yeah, I've seen those and thought they would be good for the reasons you mentioned. I've used Wago lever nuts and they also seem good.
Make sure you check your electrical code. Our code specifies a minimum height off the floor for electrical outlets.
I appreciate that. Yeah I’ve seen some codes that allow outlets horizontal within the base boards, just inches off the ground. Probably depends of where you live for sure. Here it’s almost 100% slab concrete foundations. Other places they build off the ground 100%. So I’m sure codes require different safety measures even just for that.
Oh Jeeze, place the outlet where you want to. Just be smart about it (i.e. not in the shower)
@@johnbeckwith1361 exactly! I 100% agree! Just some common sense being used.
@@FortKnoxCo - baseboard mounted outlets in living room or a bedroom, because it’s dry. There are outlets in floors as well. Just not in a bathroom, where there is a chance for a flood.
@@mar1video that is correct.
Can you cover an outlet in your house with a metal storage cabinet?? Will that start electrical fire?
If your just placing the cabinet in front of it that shouldn’t be a problem.
Is it popular to have an outlet installed in such a place in a bathroom as in this video? Or was this simply a custom request?
I'd be interested in seeing a video from you on beneficial outlet locations to consider when building a new home. Places that end up being more convenient and useful than a person might think.
Yes this was a customer request. But some builders are putting outlets in the toilet room for bidet hook ups. Usually it’s a specific thing you have to ask for during the build.
I will be making a video about the custom home we are building and some of the locations I’ve added for outlets.
@@FortKnoxCo I'll look forward to that. Thank you for the great quality videos. Glad I stumbled across you're channel.
@@brycestrong8195 thank you I appreciate that
Started out ok, but NEC says that you need to pigtail off the original outlet straight to bathroom outlet, then into the line side of the bathroom outlet to be at code
Very good. Yes pigtailing off is best practice and cleans up your connections too
There is a reason why electrical outlets are not placed near water sources. It is called CODE. Any outlet within 1 meter of potable water requires a GFCI to protect you from electrical shock.
The outlet in this installation IS a GFCI. And the house has GFCI on every circuit.
@@FortKnoxCo yes, I see that, however ESA will not approve this for new builds or Reno contractors. Therefore, is is only allowed if the homeowner installs. The risk is, should the owner attempt to sell, a home inspection may rule it against code.
@@iancraig3020 understandable. If the inspector won’t pass or notes that during the house sale it can easily be reversed or uninstalled too. I’ve seen many home inspections where they note it in their report but it’s up to the home owner and buyer to move forward with it.
I just looked up a bidet manual for a bidet I wanted to install. It says to use a dedicated circuit. running a line from 2nd floor bathroom to garage would be a pain.
Sometimes they may say that in the manual because they don’t want people branching off a line that isn’t GFCI protected. So I’d guess they say that to avoid any confusion and make sure it’s on a protected line. But if done properly it’s no different than plugging in a light or appliance. Main thing is that any plug in or near a wet area needs to be a GFCI circuit.
@@FortKnoxCo I already have a GFI in that circuit. Can this also be GFI on same circuit?
@@ashtanga2000 If the circuit has a GFCI on it then that’s one layer of protection. If you want to make the outlet in the bathroom itself a GFCI you should be able to do that too. That way that outlet will pop if for some reason there’s a short from moisture at the connection. That should be like a double layer of breakers before your main panel.
@@FortKnoxCo Just speculating, but I think some bidets can draw up into the 1500 watt range at peak. So putting that on a shared circuit could cause overload issues. I'm thinking someone tapping into a bathroom circuit and having bidet and blow dryer running. So they may recommend dedicated circuit to avoid that issue.
@@stevel7644 that’s definitely a possibility. Most dryer circuits will be a dedicated line. So tapping off of that one specifically would mean you specifically pulled from the dryer, which would not be good. In the case you pull from a regular wall circuit in a bedroom, there probably is 10 or less regular wall outlets on that line. Now if you run a high powered bidet and have something or several things running on those other wall outlets at the same time you could over draw on the circuit. In this case it was a outlet that was hidden behind a dresser and not being used and the other outlets just had either a lamp or tv being powered. So for most cases you may want to run a dedicated line to avoid any of this.
It is not a rule to put the outlet,means distance from the floor to the water tank?
Could depend on electrical code where you live. But there are some considerations in general. I wouldn’t put it under a water source like where the water supply is coming out from the wall. I would keep it off the floor but it can still be lower than your standard 24” on the ground if you’d like. Some builders put outlets in toilet rooms for this reason. Main thing is that it’s a GFCI circuit to help with any potential short you may get.
Did you center the outlet?
The location of the outlet was not centered on the wall if that’s what your asking. We measured over to where the home owner kept a basket by the floor, I located a power four e and stud to work around and we placed the outlet there. It was about 1/3 the way over from the back wall. It was placed where the home owner wanted.
Yes, the issue was American houses no brick much harder in the UK
yes, I'd imagine it would be harder doing this through brick. but it.can be done, just need a couple other tools.
Definitely something I can't do myself. 4 walls of the bathroom: one is an exterior wall, one goes into the hallway (no outlets), one has the tub and the only bit of wall on that side goes to a closet in the adjoining bedroom, and the last wall goes to a basement staircase and the closet of the other bedroom. The bathroom itself only has electrical for the lights/fan (no outlets) and the light switches are outside the bathroom itself. My house is from 1945 for context.
Aww man. Sorry to hear this. It can be done but it might cost a pretty penny to run some new electrical
My house was built in the 2000s and I have the same issue. The nearest outlet to the toilet is 25 feet away where the sinks are. On the other wall opposite the toilet is the master closet and there are no outlets there either...
@@FortKnoxCo Yeah. Priced it in my area and I was quoted $5k because he would have to run a wire from the fuse panel in the basement, up to the attic then down to the bathroom. Yeah...$5k can buy a lot of toilet paper!
@@ekummel yeah that’s a little pricey. Sometimes the juice isn’t worth the squeeze
@@ekummel Yeah in that case you may have to do a good amount of drywall work. Usually when you have to run that far with new wire you’re gonna have to cross over some studs and that entails making some holes in the drywall. At minimum. It’s almost always possible just matters how much work do you want to put into it.
You might want to check your local building codes most outlets are supposed to be 16 in off of the floor
This may be a local requirement in some places but it’s not NEC.
@@rivernet62 is is the national code
@@rivernet62 when you have no local code to use national code
@@crusherfang9368 yes I had a quiet requirement is 16 inches off the ground
What is the wall is covered with tile?
You could still branch the power over and use a retro outlet box. But you’d need a tool to cut through the tile.
Toilet room? Just another way for the builder/ developer to add on to the cost! Hello! We don’t need a toilet room with another door. To pay for..
And I just love how the developers have made every neighborhood in the United States look the same … And I’m thinking the world also.. check it out.. neighborhoods in Arizona look like the neighborhoods in Las Vegas.. look at the neighborhoods in Australia! They look the same way..
But the newer neighborhoods only have a sidewalk on one side of the street.
Yeah I’ve seen a lot of the same build styles on the west coast for sure. Very similar exterior elevations and very similar finishes and floor plans. A lot of people do like the private toilet room in the master bath though. That’s a very common design now a days.
Romex eh, try that with code required EMT.
Night light in the toilet room also
Yep! Works out great
Maybe I'm wrong, but isn't it called Romex not Nomex wire?
Yep. I Kia apple when filming. Same same. Lol. Romex is fire retardant material. Nomex is the wire used here.
I'd try it but my dad would probably piss on it since he is 1/2 blind... Well that'll teach him!
May have to place the plug in a protected area or put an exterior weather proof cover on it. That’ll keep him safe.
Did you actually call the 12/2 Nomex wire? (Romex)
Romex™ is a common type of residential wiring that is categorized by the National Electrical Code (NEC) as underground feeder (UF) or non-metallic sheathed cable (NM and NMC).
@@FortKnoxCo I know what Romex is....I asked you a question. Did you call the 12/2 wire Nomex in the video.?
@@pjdn seems like your asking a rhetorical question. If your reading through the comments you may have found several people correcting me or mentioning the correct name, in which I’ve responded acknowledging that I misspoke while filming and am obviously aware of correct terminology. But non the less…good Eye 🤙🏼 or actually.. good ear. I appreciate the comments
Another nice option would be to power the bathroom outlet first and the load side of the GFCI over to the bedroom which would add ground fault protection to the bedroom.
I agree. The bathroom has a GFCI located in another room, but the plugs in there were GFCI protected. The code here requires any plug near water or moisture to be GFCI.
You do that and when the gfci trips nobody ever thinks to go into another room to reset it. plus any recept within 6 feet of a water source in the room not a dedicated circuit by code has to be a gfci.
@@user-neo71665 I would, and when that outlet in the bathroom quits working too, it would be obvious. Not following the second part of your reply, it is a GFCI, and what about not a dedicated circuit? Not following what you are trying to say there.
Need to learn the difference between "nomex" and "romex".
Yeah I get jumbled up with the words in the moment. It’s like potato potáto. I pronounce it wrong sometimes, the R sounds like an N sometimes.
I have physical disabilities, about how much would an electrician charge for this? Thanks Much.
I’m not sure, pricing could vary depending on where you live and who you use. My guess would be if it was seen as a simple job it’d be about a 3-4 hour charge and your going to pay about $80-120/hour? But I’m really just guessing because an electrician or Handyman could obviously adjust their own rates as they see fit. But it should take but a couple/few hours of work to be charged.
A lot, I just paid 8000 for three rooms a small hall rewire and box upgrade and that wasn’t the light fixtures included and that was one third , the rest will be 6200. More.
@@sixpackbinky yeah it can get pretty pricy for electrical work. Rightfully so in most cases because it does take some good knowledge and expertise. Special tools to make the job happen are also not always cheap. so your paying for the knowledge, experience, tools and job done right.
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I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN BUT I DONT FEEL IT IS SAFE TO HAVE AN OUTLET IN THE BATHROOM CLOSE TO THE FLOOR INCASE OF FLOODING?
You can safely be done. If you don’t feel comfortable with it, then I wouldn’t do it in your house. But many people do enjoy having an outlet in there to be able to install things such as bidets. One of the main reasons that you install a GFCI outlet is in case of any type of water contact or shortage. Then there is no worry.
How the wire go to the new outlet?
Your just branching off the original outlet and running a new set of wires to the new location and box you install. Very similar to the video I made about moving an outlet up a wall for a wall mounted tv or camera.
This is a tutorial on how to not follow the zones rule. As you are not supposed to add a socket in zone 1 or 2 you can add one 3 metres away or a shaver socket 0.6m away
Thank you!
Can't do it since my bathroom has ceramic wall
You could cut/drill through the ceramic. Then complete the process ?
what if there is no outlet on the other side of the wall?
Then you do the same thing but I have to run it across the wall possibly through a few studs. Some of the same principles apply. I made the video mainly to show some different techniques on how to move electrical in general. It’s really not that scary. I have other videos that show how to move electrical up or down the wall
I usually cut the nails with my lineman’s pliers. No need for a sawzall.
Yeah there’s several ways to accomplish this. I’ve seen it done with an oscillating saw too.
Is this legal as far as fire code?
You need to make sure that all outlets in or near wet areas are GFCI protected outlets. Most houses now call for all circuits to be GFCI as an added level of protection.
Nice job but I would have installed it on the wall right next to the toilet. Just in case you get heated toilet seats or bidet. Less conspicuous.
I would prefer it there too. In this case it just required more work than the home owner wanted to pay for. So we kept it simple. They have a rack they like to keep next to the toilet, so it hid the outlet well.
Good luck for every person doing this selling your house in the future 🤣🤣🤣
Should increase the value with the bidets being so popular lately. Might be the best bang for your buck. 🤙🏼
I did this in two bathrooms and had no problem selling the house.
It also has to be tamper resistant
Yeah. I’ve seen a lot of codes requiring all outlets in the house being tamper resistant now.
also takes a little longer if the bathroom is tiled heh
Yeah that would require a little more time but still definitely possible. They have drill bits and diamond toped blades that will make quick work of cutting the tile
Funny how the word "ANYWHERE" in the title is all caps, yet missing the asterisk... *ANYWHERE...as in anywhere you have an existing outlet nearby. For the record, the video was good, just didn't match the title
I get what your saying but that’s not entirely true. You can implement the same concept and techniques of wiring, cutting out the old box, installing the new box practically anywhere you want in the wall because of the way it attaches on the inside of the drywall, and even jump across studs with drywall work included in the process. I have videos showing outlets being ran up a wall for longer stretches, electrical being fished through and across attic space. The videos intent is to show techniques for moving electrical, and if you implemented some of those now hopefully learned techniques you’d pretty much be able to install an outlet…anywhere you wanted.
I appreciate the feed back though. Everyone has different experience levels, most my videos are to just show things to others and help educate.
@@steventhompson558 it’s more about taking techniques in a video you see and then using your learned skills and applying them in your own unique situations. If you go over EVERY scenario that someone could come across where they would want to move an outlet to and then cover all the obstacles that could come up…you’d have a video so long you’d never find they scenarios that apply to you vs all the other ones that could happen. I think it was more about showing one way with some techniques and keeping it simple and to the point. There’s plenty of content out there to cover other specific scenarios.
Why did you install this lower on the wall? Because it was a bathroom outlet requested by the customer? Also was it code to use a 20 Amp GFI outlet when the rest of the circuit looked like 15 Amp? Will that be allowed per code?
They wanted it low to be hidden behind a rack that they had in the bathroom that holds their extra toilet paper. So for them it worked out well that the outlet on the other side of the wall was that close to where they wanted the new one. It also required a lot less invasive techniques like multiple holes & drywall repair to move it behind the toilet which was an exterior wall of the house. So for them it was also on budget.
The circuit Is a 20amp circuit of wall plugs. All the wall outlets in the house are on a 20amp at the breaker box. Lighting circuits were on 15amp. Very common. So using a 20amp GFCI outlet on this was just an added layer of protection on an already 20amp circuit.
It was a 20 amp circuit but once there were multiple outlets it was not capable of a single 20 amp outlet anymore. Or do you not derate the max load per circuit breaker?
@@crusherfang9368 that is correct. Almost every outlet or wiring in a Wall has been 20amp. For heavier draws from Appliance. Most wiring in ceiling dedicated to lighting has been white/15amp
Seems like this outlet is below the NEC specified height recommendation. I know some locations do not adopt NEC, but usually there are reasons for the exceptions.
As for outlets in baseboards and floors, those are usually for concrete floors, and other safety measures are often required in those applications, like splash resistant outlet covers.
Yeah, I’ve seen many different variations and locations for outlets. Depending on the area you live in they have different reason for allowing or not.
A dedicated circuit you have some leeway but this isn't so this would raise a flag on an inspection. Another thing to worry about when tying into an existing circuit is the load on it. If the breaker is already at max you just overloaded it. Often bedrooms are pretty maxed and it would be better to try to piggyback it on the bathroom if you can since they are often pretty lightly loaded.
Stuff like that is why in the trades we have to do so many hours of school and on the job training.
@@user-neo71665 yeah another way would be finding the nearest outlet on an adjacent wall in the bathroom and bringing it over. Obviously a dedicated outlet would be ideal.
@@crusherfang9368 🤙🏼 awesome !
@@crusherfang9368 Section 1136A Electrical Receptacle, Switch and Control Heights
guess again.
Everyone on RUclips knows to hit the like and subscribe to the.. If you ask us to... I'm stopping the video.... And not....
That’s true but also not true. People are aware of it and I’d assume, just like you, that people will hit it because they like the video or want to support that person in some way. BUT with all the research and analytics done they show that a lot of the time people don’t. And that videos where you ask or remind people to subscribe or hit like have a significantly higher rate of people actually doing it. So for people trying to develop a RUclips channel it really does help. Even some of the biggest RUclips channels today still mention “hit the like Button” during the video. The goal I guess is to do it subtly or make it unique and not to cheesy or basic/abrupt. I apologize for mentioning it, but I gotta kinda do it. So I’ll try to be more creative with it in the future. But either way I do appreciate you commenting.