Excellent video. Curious, is it feasible to omit the 2nd stage cooling wire on a 2 stage heat pump to get more heat capacity? example.. manJ heat=53k and cool is 29k. Using a two stage 4 ton unit would get me most of the heat and be only a about 15% oversized for cooling that's limited to the 70% stage 1.
I found wiring w2 from ahu fwm4p3600a on L terminal on old sn12i thermostat. Why did they do it this way? Newbie here and just looking for answers. Thanks
So what about thermostats like the communicating American Standard Platinum ACCULINK 1050 that only has B R D Terminals (i have plans for zoning to be added come spring time so needed a thermo that can control zones through a zone relay all of which will be added in May 2023) that is connected to an American Standard relay panel to a tem6 non-communicating American Standard 5 ton air handler and two stage Gold 17 American Standard heat pump? I haven't installed that apparently doesn't know what they're doing and for two days for the life of them cannot get emergency or auxiliary heat to work.
Instead of having a Y 2 connected to my A S 4TWB3060B1000CA heat pump. I have a W 1, W 2, and Y 1 coming from the thermostat and go to the heat pump. Maybe I have a 2 stage, heat pump, before I temporarily disconnected the W 2 wire seems like it may been putting out more heat?
on a single stage heat pump with only 4 wires thermostat, can you jump the thermostat, blower board and defrost board like y/o, w/b an r/rh with no common when you can"t run additional wires?
Just a suggestion? If you stand away from the wiring diagram for a little bit longer it would be much easier for someone to take a screenshot. Thank you for making videos!
Thank you for your feedback! We also have our wiring diagrams and charts available on the Nortek Global HVAC Literature Library through nortekhvac.com.
@@angelbelieves7496 I believe the X wire is for Trane Heat Pumps, I believe its the signal in from the Outdoor Unit to turn on the electric heat strips/backup heat while the Outdoor unit defrosts. This is because the outdoor unit in defrost mode is actually cooling, so to avoid cooler air going through the vents the X wire sends a signal to fire up the backup heat to keep warm air going through the vents just until the Outdoor unit defrosts. Again not 100% but pretty sure that's what you're seeing.
Can anyone help me. I have paid twice to fix my heatpump unit ,which is a York 2ton.everyone said themostat.because it was blowing the fuse on the low side.well changed it and still no heat.the unit runs on the airhead side but blows cold heat,the ac runs on ac,but not heat
Use Alexa automation. Setup two different thermostats one for stage 1 and another for stage 2. Let stage 2 be your radiator water heating produced by your tankless Navien water heater. Let stage 1 be your Mitsubishi mini split. Do not connect it all to one thermostat.... connect it to two separate smart thermostats that support if this then that programmable interface. Setup your first thermostat that is running your mitsubishi to run at all times unless temperature goes below 72 degrees... if temperature goes below 72 degrees (which means your Mitsubishi unit can’t handle the load anymore due to perhaps temperature outside being below 35 degrees) turn on your stage 2 tankless water heater and turn off your stage1 heating... once again using programmable if this then that interface... At this point you will be running on your tankless water heater radiator heating fueled by gas. That is going to be more fuel efficient than heat pump when it’s very cold outside.... plus it will give you opportunity to fix the heat pump if it broke for example.... Plus fail over is automatic.... plus you can use Alexa to override it with Manual voice controls.... where you can turn back on your Mitsubishi..... with a simple voice command such as “Alexa turn my primary heat on”.... in which case your gas heating will turn off and primary will turn on.... See? Easy right? Better then connecting things to one thermostat mechanically and getting lost in the process... We live in digital age... not Stone Age... let’s be more digital... In my case I have my house on solar panels... and I am using similar setup.... Where electricity for me is basically free... well $100 per month vs typical $400 before solar panels. Heat pump helps save money on electricity as well up to certain temp... then the gas kicks in.... Cool right?
I'm not an HVAC tech, but I'm pretty sure he leaves out that this requires a special "heat pump thermostat" Otherwise when the thermostat requests heat, Y1 and/or Y2 will not activate and your heat pump condenser will never go.
Way to not even annotate that you either explained it wrong or your diagram is wrong. You should take this video down and fix it. Very unprofessional IMO.
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Excellent video. Curious, is it feasible to omit the 2nd stage cooling wire on a 2 stage heat pump to get more heat capacity? example.. manJ heat=53k and cool is 29k. Using a two stage 4 ton unit would get me most of the heat and be only a about 15% oversized for cooling that's limited to the 70% stage 1.
What is the L terminal for on a Goodman 2 stage AC on my outside unit its right between O and Y2
I found wiring w2 from ahu fwm4p3600a on L terminal on old sn12i thermostat. Why did they do it this way? Newbie here and just looking for answers. Thanks
where does the "B" wire go if it was used on the old thermostat ? if O is used for O/B
So what about thermostats like the communicating American Standard Platinum ACCULINK 1050 that only has B R D Terminals (i have plans for zoning to be added come spring time so needed a thermo that can control zones through a zone relay all of which will be added in May 2023) that is connected to an American Standard relay panel to a tem6 non-communicating American Standard 5 ton air handler and two stage Gold 17 American Standard heat pump? I haven't installed that apparently doesn't know what they're doing and for two days for the life of them cannot get emergency or auxiliary heat to work.
Instead of having a Y 2 connected to my A S 4TWB3060B1000CA heat pump. I have a W 1, W 2, and Y 1 coming from the thermostat and go to the heat pump. Maybe I have a 2 stage, heat pump, before I temporarily disconnected the W 2 wire seems like it may been putting out more heat?
if you are going from a single stage heat pump to a two stage heat pump do do have to run extra wire to your thermostat?
Yes, unless is Bluetooth
on a single stage heat pump with only 4 wires thermostat, can you jump the thermostat, blower board and defrost board like y/o, w/b an r/rh with no common when you can"t run additional wires?
great video, very well explained, the only thing I believe the wiring from the outdoor thermostat is backwards,
gulop i agree. I had to double check it also.
You are right I was scratching my head thinking the wiring is not right!
I literally was about to quit my trade and do something else because I thought I was stupid watching that wiring diagram
Just a suggestion? If you stand away from the wiring diagram for a little bit longer it would be much easier for someone to take a screenshot. Thank you for making videos!
Thank you for your feedback! We also have our wiring diagrams and charts available on the Nortek Global HVAC Literature Library through nortekhvac.com.
You had your screenshot at 20 seconds into the video...
what does an X wire do and why does the new thermostat say not to hook it up? its on a heat pump unit.
Hello, our equipment does not have an X wire.
great video, very well explained, the only thing I believe the wiring from the outdoor thermostat is backwards,
Ah. The x wire. We are having the same issue.
@@angelbelieves7496 I believe the X wire is for Trane Heat Pumps, I believe its the signal in from the Outdoor Unit to turn on the electric heat strips/backup heat while the Outdoor unit defrosts. This is because the outdoor unit in defrost mode is actually cooling, so to avoid cooler air going through the vents the X wire sends a signal to fire up the backup heat to keep warm air going through the vents just until the Outdoor unit defrosts. Again not 100% but pretty sure that's what you're seeing.
This doesnt work with ruud with two blue wires and a purple and no orange on the outdoor unit.
Can anyone help me. I have paid twice to fix my heatpump unit ,which is a York 2ton.everyone said themostat.because it was blowing the fuse on the low side.well changed it and still no heat.the unit runs on the airhead side but blows cold heat,the ac runs on ac,but not heat
Do anyone know how i can limit my aux heater from coming on?
Senville 12,000 and 18,000 Btu Aura series. I think they are made by Mitsibishi.
Hi Eddie, the products you're referencing are not manufactured by Nortek Global HVAC. Mitsubishi may also have a way to reach out for support.
Thanks. I'll see what i can find out...
Use Alexa automation. Setup two different thermostats one for stage 1 and another for stage 2. Let stage 2 be your radiator water heating produced by your tankless Navien water heater. Let stage 1 be your Mitsubishi mini split. Do not connect it all to one thermostat.... connect it to two separate smart thermostats that support if this then that programmable interface.
Setup your first thermostat that is running your mitsubishi to run at all times unless temperature goes below 72 degrees... if temperature goes below 72 degrees (which means your Mitsubishi unit can’t handle the load anymore due to perhaps temperature outside being below 35 degrees) turn on your stage 2 tankless water heater and turn off your stage1 heating... once again using programmable if this then that interface...
At this point you will be running on your tankless water heater radiator heating fueled by gas. That is going to be more fuel efficient than heat pump when it’s very cold outside.... plus it will give you opportunity to fix the heat pump if it broke for example....
Plus fail over is automatic.... plus you can use Alexa to override it with Manual voice controls.... where you can turn back on your Mitsubishi..... with a simple voice command such as “Alexa turn my primary heat on”.... in which case your gas heating will turn off and primary will turn on....
See? Easy right? Better then connecting things to one thermostat mechanically and getting lost in the process...
We live in digital age... not Stone Age... let’s be more digital...
In my case I have my house on solar panels... and I am using similar setup....
Where electricity for me is basically free... well $100 per month vs typical $400 before solar panels.
Heat pump helps save money on electricity as well up to certain temp... then the gas kicks in....
Cool right?
I'm not an HVAC tech, but I'm pretty sure he leaves out that this requires a special "heat pump thermostat" Otherwise when the thermostat requests heat, Y1 and/or Y2 will not activate and your heat pump condenser will never go.
If your a technician you know what he’s trying to explain even though some of the wiring is wrong.
This wiring diagram makes no sense.
Way to not even annotate that you either explained it wrong or your diagram is wrong. You should take this video down and fix it. Very unprofessional IMO.